DIY metal scaffolding. How to make scaffolding from boards: basic design requirements and stages of work

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. Scaffolding “goats” are usually called low portable tables which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of species scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

Vertical posts (accept the work load and transfer it to the ground).
Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders).
Persistent slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over).
Railings (protect workers from falling).
Stairs (used for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. Wooden structure cheaper than steel, but withstands no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Scaffolding made of metal are several times more expensive than wooden ones, but have no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to do homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

maximum height of the structure - 6 meters;
distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
The width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards"thirty".
For the flooring and the lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for extended and tall structures– self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding;
the racks are connected by horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid;
the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and secured;
the scaffolding is fixed on two side bevels;
Railings are nailed to the racks, the ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide sections of boards, stuffed onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing.

Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to that of wood. The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the number of storeys of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties).
Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for the manufacture of adapters and bearings). To make railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties together and securing them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

to the assembly panel ( OSB sheet) clamps rigidly fix the scaffolding racks ( high accuracy when working with metal - a very important factor);
horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding;
having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps;
ends and middle thin-walled pipes, intended for diagonal stretch marks, are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them;
Having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked;
the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
holes are drilled on posts and railings for bolted connections;
plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe sections;
the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
Flooring from “magpie” boards is laid on the side lintels.

Helpful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust bevel, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length).

When building, repairing and maintaining a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at height. By using ladder Not everything can be done, and it’s not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.

Homemade wooden scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often it is made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need is a saw, nails/screws, a hammer/screwdriver/screwdriver. The set of tools is simple, which any owner can find, and if there is something missing, it doesn’t require a lot of money to purchase. Metal is more difficult in this regard. It requires at least some handling skills, the presence of a welding machine and at least some idea of how. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made from wood.

What to make from

Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short period of time. But construction wood must be used to make them. good quality, with a minimum of knots. Some craftsmen advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the strength of the board.

But rarely anyone has spruce boards in stock, but pine is usually enough. From pine boards You can also make scaffolding, but each of them needs to be checked (in any case, those that go to the racks and flooring). To do this, stack two columns (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. Place the board on the posts, stand in the middle and jump on it a couple of times. If there are weak spots, the board will break or crack. Withstood - you can use it.

The thickness of the board must be discussed specifically, referring to the design of the scaffolding, the distances between the posts and the planned load. The only thing that can be said is that 40 mm or 50 mm thick boards are most often used for racks and flooring, and 25-30 mm for jibs. Such a board can be used in detailed construction work Oh, if you manage to avoid damaging it when dismantling the scaffolding.

Nails or screws

The debate about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better always goes on, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at heights, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view better than nails. They are made of soft metal and when loaded, they bend but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, but it is brittle and breaks when exposed to shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding - there have been cases when they fell apart. But this we're talking about about “black” screws. If they are also anodized - yellowish-green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of the scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not liked due to the fact that it is impossible to disassemble the joint quickly and without losses - most often the wood is damaged.

At self-production scaffolding, you can do this: initially assemble everything using anodized screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each connection. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, scraps of thin boards can be placed under the nails; for a long span, whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.

Designs and their features

For different types works use scaffolding and scaffolding of different designs. Too big for working with light materials load bearing capacity need not. In such cases, attached scaffolds or envelope scaffolds are made.

For work on gables or exterior decoration short one-story house They use construction trestles, on the crossbars of which the flooring is laid.

For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - all these works require full-fledged scaffolding.

As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Next we will talk in more detail about each of these structures.

Attached scaffolding

They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply leaned against it. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter “L”, only turned in different directions.

The picture on the right shows a simple and reliable scaffolding design. Their only drawback is that they are not height adjustable. They are convenient if you need, for example, to hem roof overhangs, install or clean gutters, or all those jobs that have a slight variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (timber). It is convenient to roll or lift logs along the edges of the stops.

They are reliable - they can withstand an 11-meter log and three people Construction scaffolding - a simple design

In the picture on the left there is an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. Attractive because it requires a minimum building materials, you can assemble/disassemble/move them in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting them to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - it is convenient to use it to lift the scaffolding to a given height. The top crossbar is made 80-100 cm long, and flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.

When making corners, the joint must be positioned so that horizontal board was on top. To increase the reliability of this unit, you can use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed using three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.

Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the façade allows, they are nailed down; if not, they are made use of only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from timber, boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, pipes of solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or cross-section (for a profiled pipe at least 50*40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, and additionally secured by driving in wedges.

To eliminate the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. For these jibs you can use unedged board, if there is one, but of sufficient thickness and width.

If there is a need to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed longer than 6 meters), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, relieving part of the load.

Now a little about the flooring of these attached scaffolds. It is made from wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is advisable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is extremely desirable.

Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos

The options described above are good if the work does not involve heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to support scaffolding on a wall - any ventilated facade or multi-layer wall - and you will not be able to install such a structure. In this case, full-fledged forests are made. Their design is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.

For their construction, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. These are two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They should be made based on the fact that the minimum more or less comfortable width of the flooring is 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability the racks can be made tapering at the top.

The stands are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for the flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding becomes.

To prevent scaffolding from falling, they are supported by boards/beams, one end of which is nailed to the posts (with nails), the other is buried in the ground

The cross beams prevent the scaffold from folding sideways, but there is still the possibility that the unsecured scaffold could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffolding is 2.5-3 meters, this need not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.

If work will be carried out at high altitudes, it is advisable to install railings. They can be made from not very thick boards, but there should be no knots or cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights to feel more confident at the top.

Standard molding is enough to reach the floor level of the second floor - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old, but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - whatever is available on the farm

Construction trestles

There is also a way to make lightweight mobile scaffolding - build identical construction trestles, filling the crossbars with a certain pitch, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring boards.

This type of scaffolding is good, for example, when covering a house with siding. The sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean or fix to the wall. Therefore, this option is the best for such a case.

Construction trestles - options

Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilting. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When building a house from stone, building blocks are more suitable metal scaffolding. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the most cheap look building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put to work - used in further construction. And metal parts should gather dust in.

But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners wooden houses you still have to use them periodically: the log house requires maintenance, so the scaffolding is needed every two or three years. In this case, it is more practical to use metal rather than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical posts connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:

Pin scaffolding. They are called so because the crossbars and posts are connected using pins. Pieces of pipe or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. This system is very easy to assemble and can withstand heavy loads. Pin scaffolding for buildings of simple shape is very easy to implement; going around bay windows and projections is much more difficult.
Clamps. For racks and crossbars, round pipes are used, which are fastened together using clamps special design. The system turns out to be very mobile and movable; you can easily get around any curved facades. The downside is the limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).
Clamp scaffolding - quick installation/dismantling
Frame. From round or rectangular pipe frames of the same size are welded. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They have a modular structure and can be easily expanded both in height and in length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5/2/2.5/3 meters, in height one section is usually 2 meters, standard depth - 1 m. Some frames have wheels - for easier movement around flat surface. Connection of flag-type elements - pins with a slot into which the flag is inserted are welded on the frame. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on a pin and secured with a flag. Sections are built up using connecting pipes of smaller diameter, welded to the frame posts on one side. With this method, it is important to have perfectly selected pipe sizes so that there is no backlash.
Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs
Wedges. Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades of complex shapes.

When making metal scaffolding yourself, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are only good on rectangular facades; to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.

Scaffolding is widely used to carry out any engineering work at a certain height. Structures are classified not only by the type of material used for installation, but also by the method of fastening the component elements. Very often the need arises when finishing the facades of private houses, when you need to quickly and easily move along the walls.

Use of wood material

It is not difficult to make such a design with your own hands. Most often, stable and durable frame-type scaffolding is installed independently. This installation requires the presence of a strong frame, which is given rigidity by installing diagonals and racks. Scaffolding of this type can be manufactured:

Made of wood.
Made of metal.

Wooden scaffolding is easier to install, but to ensure safety precautions, it is recommended to install them yourself only when necessary finishing works on low altitude. For example, when finishing the facade of a house on the first floor level. This is due to the fact that when installing structures of greater height, it is difficult to provide them with the necessary rigidity and stability.

Video review: Scaffolding. Assembly secrets

Scaffolding. Assembly secrets

Metal constructions

Metal scaffolding, the frame of which is made of pipes and profiles, has a number of advantages over wooden ones, namely:

Higher strength, which guarantees safety during work.
Good rigidity, which ensures comfort during work.
Easy to assemble as metal components are secured using simple and reliable fastening methods.
Durability during storage, which means the possibility of reusable scaffolding.
Absolute fire safety.

The photo shows the finished section. It is from these elements that the design of frame scaffolding of any size is formed.

Many people are interested in whether they can trust self-assembled scaffolding. After all, working at height is always associated with danger, and, therefore, when using the structure, complete safety must be guaranteed. In this regard, the question of how to make durable scaffolding is quite relevant.

Installation process frame scaffolding made of metal components is not particularly complex, so all installation operations can be carried out with your own hands if you have basic carpentry and metalworking skills. The main thing is to be extremely careful during installation, and perform all operations efficiently and slowly.

Frame-type scaffolding is primarily used for work on straight facades. They are considered absolutely safe when carrying out work operations at a height of up to 50 m. And this is significantly higher than what wooden structures allow.

A general diagram of the frame type design is presented below:

Installation of metal scaffolding

To build high-quality and reliable design For metal scaffolding you will need the following:

Profile having a cross section of 30 x 30 mm. for installation of vertical racks.
Pipes having a diameter of 15 mm. for mounting ties between posts horizontally and diagonally.
Profile having a cross section of 25 x 25 mm. to form work platform supports and protective fencing.
Boards about 5 cm thick to form a working platform.
Bolts with nuts and washers for fastening metal components.
Self-tapping screws for fixing boards.

Before installing scaffolding of this type, it is necessary to think over the construction plan and location of the sections. Material calculations are carried out according to ready-made drawings, which can be made in any form. But it is very important that they take into account the following: design features for each individual section:

Height between tiers: 2 m.
Width between posts: 1 m.
Length between posts: 3 m.

The number of sections is calculated depending on the length of the wall and the height of the house.

Stages of work

Before installation, it is necessary to thoroughly compact the soil in the area where scaffolding is planned to be erected. It is also advisable to arrange a drainage system to prevent soil erosion in rainy weather.

At the first stage, pipe sections with a diameter of 15 mm are cut. the required length and required quantity according to the drawings.

On both sides, cuts are made at the ends so that they can be flattened. This will allow you to make a high-quality connection with vertical posts for which a metal profile is used.

Next on construction site The location of the vertical posts is marked. First, shoes are installed in these places, and then vertical posts are fixed in them, which are tightened with transverse crossbars and diagonal braces in the places indicated in the drawings.

Fixation is carried out using bolts, nuts and washers, which are pre-installed drilled holes. Diagonal braces are fastened in the same way at the intersection points.

After this, you should proceed to arranging the working area from boards, which are pre-cut to size. To do this, in increments of no more than half a meter per top bars a support profile is mounted between the racks. Boards are attached to it using self-tapping screws. To ensure safety, a protective fence is installed around the work site. A ladder for climbing to the upper tier of scaffolding can be purchased, or can be formed using a profile between the side posts of the frame.

Metal scaffolding can consist of several tiers. This design is formed from required quantity separate sections that are welded together. It should be remembered that in this case, to ensure the rigidity of the product, diagonal ties must be mounted in a checkerboard pattern.

IMPORTANT! Self-made scaffolding must be reliable and the structure can support the weight of working people, tools, construction materials, and supplies.

If there is the slightest doubt about the impossibility of providing the necessary strength, preference should be given to purchased professional products.

Wood is one of the simplest and most inexpensive building materials to process. Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. The production of scaffolding will consist of 5 successive stages, after completing which you will receive a structure completely ready for work. Tools required for work:

Wooden scaffolding is much cheaper to make yourself than to buy in specialized stores.

screwdriver;
plane;
drill;
wood hacksaw;
roulette.

Preparation and selection of materials

The design of the scaffolding is such that various parts it is necessary to use several types of wood. In order to prepare load-bearing supports, you will need a beam measuring at least 10x10 cm, otherwise you will not be able to perform from such scaffolding hard work. The platforms themselves are made of fairly thick boards (preferably at least 50 mm thick). The stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm in thickness. It should be remembered that the wood used must be treated by special means, protecting the material from rotting and mold. It is desirable that there are no cracks or knots in the material, then the scaffolding will last longer. For safety reasons, fencing slats can also be added to the structure.

Calculation of frame dimensions and start of collection

Scheme of wooden scaffolding.

In construction, there are restrictions on the minimum permissible width of scaffolding; it must be at least 50 cm. The recommended length of scaffolding is 3-4 m, and the safe height should not exceed 6 m, otherwise the scaffolding may tip over during operation. When selecting material for timber supports, preference should be given to solid rather than composite timber, as this will increase the strength of the future product. To increase the stability of the entire structure, it is better to make the end sides at a converging angle.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be assembled from a small amount of materials. At the beginning of the first stage, two six-meter support beams are placed on a horizontal surface. The distance between them is equal to the planned length future design. Two similar beams are laid side by side in the same way. In this case, the upper ends of the beam pair should converge slightly, i.e. if the distance between the lower ends of the pair is 3 m, then the distance between the upper ends should be 2.4 m. This is necessary to increase the stability of the structure. Next, to support beams the sidewalls are attached, which will serve as a support for the decking (ordinary screws are used for fastening). The supports should be mounted with inside. There will be 4 timber sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to make scaffolding higher than three “floors”. Three sidewalls will be used for flooring, and one, the bottom one, will be used to strengthen the strength.

Connection into a single structure and final installation

Next, you need to connect the side trapezoids obtained at the previous stage with side crossbars. If you nevertheless decide to assemble the scaffolding with your own hands, then in order to avoid injuries and loss of accuracy during joining, this operation should be performed by two or three people. It should be remembered that stable wooden scaffolding should be pyramidal in shape, but the toe-in angle should not be large. The side cross members are fastened with self-tapping screws, this is justified by the fact that after completion of construction work wooden scaffolding It will be quite easy to disassemble by unscrewing the screws and put it away for storage.

Any construction of a house or facade work cannot do without the use of scaffolding. As a rule, scaffolding is made of wood or metal. Wooden scaffolding is, of course, easier to produce. To ensure the durability of the structure and enhance its strength, metal is chosen.

It all depends on the task and the required wear resistance of the particular scaffolding. The larger the working area, the more attention should be paid to strength. For the construction of private houses or adjacent structures, scaffolding is created 2.5 meters high and 1 m wide. It is better not to build a structure higher than 6 meters, because increasing the height of the structure reduces its stability.

Standard design involves the use of the following components:

Boards for flooring and lintels 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Beams for racks and stops measuring 10x10 cm. Nails or self-tapping screws (for small structures).

Spacers are placed between the legs to add strength to the structure. The racks are fastened with flooring and jumpers. To move between levels of scaffolding (up and down), steps are made from beams attached to racks, or an extension ladder is used.

Metal structures are assembled from steel or aluminum pipes. For this you need the following materials:

welding machine

Pipes 15 mm. are cut into 2 meter lengths and their ends are flattened.

From 30 mm. pipes are made into sections measuring 0.75 m (the length of one jumper) and 1.5 m.

The structural components are fastened together by welding or bolts. The jumpers are fixed crosswise on both sides. When one section is ready, you can build the next one.

Safety precautions during construction work should be paramount, so do not try to assemble and disassemble scaffolding more than two or three times. They lose strength from reusable assemblies.

Always check the strength of the assembly before starting work.

The need for scaffolding arose along with the need to construct or decorate buildings with a height of more than two floors.

The first such structures were made of wood, which is why they were called scaffolding. They are built around a building that needs to be renovated and come in different types. Let's look at the most common types of scaffolding.

Wooden scaffolding

Wood has long been widely used in construction, and it can be used to construct scaffolding for finishing and repair work passing at low altitude. Typically this type of scaffolding is used for private homes or low-rise buildings. Since this type of scaffolding is the simplest and easiest to implement, we present the technology for its manufacture.

To construct wooden scaffolding, you will need boards 150x50 mm long, half a meter long, pieces of thin boards 25x100 mm, two long boards of fifty for supports and long boards of the required length for horizontal flooring.

First, triangular supports for the scaffolding are knocked together from the scraps of fifty, and then they are sheathed with thinner boards. The dimensions of the support triangles should be chosen based on the following factors: the support should not move away from the wall under the weight of the builder and its own weight, and there should also be enough space for a worker standing on the platform. In this regard, the length of the scaffold is usually chosen to be 400-500 mm, and the worker’s feet should not sag beyond the platform.

The supports are attached to the supports at sharp angles.

In this case, the upper end of the support is cut so as to insert it inside the support triangle, and Bottom part sharpened to secure it in the ground. After this, the scaffolding is brought to the desired position and the vertical part of the triangular supports is fastened to the wall with nails, without driving them in to the very tops, since then, after finishing the work, they will need to be removed. Then they place the ladder and begin to nail the flooring boards to the supports, in this case the nails are driven in all the way.

Before starting construction work, you should make sure that the structure is stable, and in general, wooden scaffolding should not be made higher than seven meters.

Metal scaffolding

They are made from aluminum or steel pipes, and there are two options for such structures: modular and frame. Modular types include suspended, wedge, clamp and modular (system) scaffolding. Frame scaffolding includes pin, flag and tower scaffolding.

All metal scaffolding requires anchoring to the walls of the building, and without such attachment, the height of the scaffolding should not be more than four meters, and then only on condition that the base under the scaffolding is perfectly horizontal and compacted.

Let's look at the main types of metal scaffolding.

Flag (frame) scaffolding

Such structures can withstand loads of up to 200 kg/sq.

meter. They consist of side frames, racks for horizontal and diagonal fastening of the side frames to each other and shoes for support on the ground. The dimensions of such scaffolding may differ depending on the manufacturer, but the construction scheme is the same.

Such scaffolding is easy to assemble and inexpensive, so it is very common. The frame scaffold fasteners are inserted into holes specially designed for this purpose and secured by turning. In the vertical plane, the parts are connected by inserting the frame into the groove below the located element.

Tower tour

These scaffoldings can withstand a load of 200 kg/sq.m.

meter. Such structures are often used for repairing and finishing individual sections of building facades. Since it is quite expensive to build scaffolding around the entire building, and it takes a lot of time to assemble and disassemble them, a tower-tour is used.

It is a construction of their finished frames with a ladder, wheels are attached to its base. If frames with a height of over 4 meters are used, then additional spacers are attached to the frame of the first tier, and if the tiers of the tower are extended by 2/3 maximum height, then it is attached to the wall of the building with brackets or anchors. Such tower tours can be from 4 to 21 meters high and vary in the number of tiers.

Pin scaffolding

Used with maximum load 200 kg/sq.

meter. The horizontal elements of their design are fastened using pins, which are inserted into hollow pipe-eyes on vertical racks. Each level of scaffolding is assembled in stages, and the lower ends of the rack supports are inserted into the shoes.

For greater rigidity, diagonal braces are used. They can be mounted to a height of up to 40 meters, and are most often used for masonry work. Such scaffolding is made from steel tubes with large thickness walls, and therefore they are capable of experiencing heavy loads.

Wedge scaffolding

Such structures with a standard load of 200-300 kg/sq.

meter have more complex design than the options described above. Their elements are secured with steel wedges driven in with a hammer. This increases the strength of the scaffolding, which is why they are used under heavy loads.

The special shape of the wedge prevents wedging. 8-hole flange rack locks are also used. Such scaffolding is used at heights of up to 40 meters for high-rise construction and finishing works.

Clamp scaffolding

Their standard load is 200-250 kg/sq.m. meter.

All elements are connected using clamps (rotary or blind), into which crossbars and racks are inserted and then secured with threaded bolts. The disadvantages include the complexity of assembly, but such scaffolding can be mounted to a height of up to 80 meters. Clamp scaffolding can also be used to work with complex architectural elements– for example, arches and domes.

Which type of scaffolding to choose depends, first of all, on the purpose of its use. Thus, for work at high heights, pin or clamp scaffolding is used, and for construction and finishing work at low heights, frame scaffolding is used.

Evaluate the manufacturing method:

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. “Goat” scaffolds are usually called low portable tables that can accommodate no more than two people.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

Vertical posts (accept the working load and transfer it to the ground). Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame). Lintels (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid). Flooring (boards knocked together, serving as a working platform for builders) .Thoring slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over). Railings (protect workers from falling). Stairs (serve for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than a steel one, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wood, but has no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters; the distance between the posts is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters; the width of the working floor is 1 meter.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a cross-section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards "thirty". For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, you will need boards 4-5 cm thick.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding.

Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

on a flat area, 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding, are laid out parallel to each other; the racks are connected with horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid; the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected by diagonal and horizontal ties; a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and fastened; the scaffolding is fixed on two side slopes, stops; railings are nailed to the racks, a ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the “number of stories” of a metal structure. A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements: A profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter). Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties). Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for making adapters and bearings). To make a railing, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long. Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings; 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties to each other and attaching them to the frame posts. The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations: the scaffolding posts are rigidly fixed to the assembly panel (OSB sheet) with clamps (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor); horizontal jumpers are welded to the posts; adapters are inserted into the upper ends of the posts by 5 cm from pipe scraps and fix them by welding; having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly panel, they are turned 90 degrees and in this position they are again fixed to the panel with clamps; the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal stretching are flattened with a hammer and holes are drilled into them for bolts; having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and places for drilling holes are marked; the ties are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts; holes are drilled on the racks and railings for bolted connections; plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe sections; the assembled structure they are placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes; a flooring from a “magpie” board is laid on the side jumpers. Useful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring to its lower part at the point of contact with the jumpers, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners. Diagonal ties need to be attached to one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ones on the other, so that during assembly they do not interfere with each other. If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching the profile pipe of the thrust bevel, which protects structure from falling. In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length). Video

Also on topic

"food like in kindergarten" children's cooking

Baked apples in the oven: recipe, calorie content, benefits and harm

Interpretation of the oracle of Lenormand flowers

Coconut flour: benefits and harms, calorie content

Dream Interpretation: Why do you dream about dancing?