>>> Plywood?
Birch plywood FSF Sveza.
Format, mm: 1220x2440
The variety is pretty decent, I don't remember, 2 or 3, polished on both sides.
http://www.sveza.ru/catalog.asp?m2id=3455&m3id=3486#m3494
Quoted1>>> And the Thickness?
12 mm
>>> Probably mark it out, and then with a ruler
Quite right. I quote my very first message:
Remont_Forever>>> The ideal straight line was drawn using laser level, ruler and ballpoint pen.
Remont_Forever>>> sawed along the drawn straight line
>>> How long is the cut? 2400mm?
2440mm
>>> What is the accuracy - a fraction of a mm?
The line was drawn ballpoint pen... The line width is approximately half a millimeter. The jigsaw was guided exactly along the line (so that the line was approximately in the middle of the file). But very slowly. After cutting, the traces of the ink line were not visible from either side. Visually, the final cut was absolutely straight, the waves were not visible.
By the way, the factory edge of the plywood turned out to be crooked (a wave of 2-3 millimeters at the indicated length), I had to saw it off too.
In two weeks we will take care of the floor, when we have to cut the plywood. So you intrigued me that I will take the jigsaw from my husband and try to saw it myself. Moreover, super quality is not required there.
>>> technology for drawing lines using a laser level
We take the UL-S level (see VDSiR 36-2004, p. 135-136). Turn on vertical markup. UL-S builds a vertical line on the wall, respectively, on the plywood sheet that lies in front of the wall - just a straight line.
We place UL-S and plywood relative to each other so that this line passes where we need it. In the center of the laser line we put dashes with a ballpoint pen or a sharpened pencil every 20-30 cm. We connect the outlined lines with a single thin line using a thin metal ruler. Turn off UL-S. We saw.
It is especially convenient to mark UL-Som on curves brick walls vertical lines for lighthouses for subsequent plastering. This is, of course, without a ruler, I just draw a pencil along the laser line, and that's it.
Quoted1>>> Or are you using a laser beam and led the cutting tool?
No. We tried it at first, but it's inconvenient. The file reflects laser beams in all directions, the laser hits the eyes, etc.
>>> Or do you have a laser marking surface?
Unfortunately no. If I got one like that, marking ANY surface, and battering 2 planes, but for 2700 rubles ... I would immediately buy it. I am afraid, however, that such have not yet been invented.
Dear craftsmen and experts!
To be honest, I don't see any profound professionalism in sawing plywood. Need firm hand, neatness, patience + some experience. I don't understand what, in general, the bazaar is about.
It's still not ventilation, for example, count.
I think about what was the purpose of the initiator of the topic. Get hold of some tricky trick that allows you to cut quickly and smoothly without showing patience and accuracy?
Or find out about a tool like magic wand, who will make a neat cut himself, if the owner does not have a firm hand?
Or what ...?
Anyone who is about to create from plywood sheet interior item, for example, a stool, a carved box, a wardrobe or a rocking chair, asks the question, what should be taken into account when working to make the product reliable and attractive? Also, many are interested in how to cut plywood (with a jigsaw or a saw).
To answer the question, what is the best way to cut plywood and how to do it correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances and subtleties that should be taken into account in the process in order to achieve a positive result before work.
How to choose a plywood sheet sawing tool?
To answer the question of how to cut plywood without chips, you need to find out which tool and in what cases is more appropriate to use.
The choice of cutting tool depends on the complexity of the pattern, more precisely on the bend radius that needs to be cut.
If the bending radius is no more than one centimeter, then a hand jigsaw is used. If the width of the material is about a millimeter, then many complex shapes can be created.
Advice! With a drill, you can make a round hole much faster.
If the bend radius is more than three centimeters, then use electric jigsaw... What file to cut plywood with? First of all, it should be noted that the radius depends on the width of the material, therefore, the smaller the saw teeth, the more intact the veneer layer will be. For this reason, in order to cut out complex shapes, a metal cloth is used.
The sketch should be applied to the back of the plywood. This will help prevent chips from lifting (if they do rise, then only from the back side).
If you need to make a cut in a straight line, then in this case it would be most appropriate Circular Saw... With the help of such a tool, you can achieve an even and clean cut.
Important! To make a smooth cut, make sure that the tool is not suspended. Otherwise, distortions are inevitable. If you use hand saw, the tool load must fall on the surface of the sheet.
Edging
In order for the edges to turn out without chips, you need to choose the right tool:
- Needles are used when cutting out complex shapes. Thanks to them, the edges can be made rounded or angular. The set includes triangular, flat and round files.
- For rough products it is quite possible to do with two files, flat and round.
- When plywood sheets need to be processed before roughing the walls, use a flat rasp. With the help of it, the master will clean the edge from chips.
Important! In the process of grinding, it is necessary to observe the direction of the fibers. The file must not move perpendicular to it.
- Small parts are sanded sandpaper.
- Another way to achieve even edges is to glue the "path" of the cut with insulating tape when cutting.
Which material should you choose?
Tips for choosing a material:
- For creating decorative elements a plywood sheet with a thickness of about four millimeters is suitable.
- In order to decorate interior items with a carved panel, a plywood sheet with a thickness of eight millimeters or more is suitable.
- A six millimeter thick sheet is suitable for the manufacture of frame interior items. But if they are going to make frameless furniture, then choose a sheet, the thickness of which is at least fifteen millimeters. It is quite possible to connect pieces of plywood end-to-end, without corners, but in this case it is necessary to make holes in the end part. For additional strength, you can apply sealant to the ends.
- Plywood sheet, the thickness of which exceeds ten centimeters, is mainly used as flooring along concrete screed... In this case, between concrete base and a layer of waterproofing is laid with plywood. How to cut 10 mm plywood? An electric jigsaw is the best choice for cutting plywood at this thickness. However, if you need to cut in a straight line, you can get by with a saw.
How to cut plywood properly to avoid chipping at the edges? To avoid such problems when working, you should take into account some of the nuances:
- How to cut plywood with a jigsaw / saw to make it easier to work with? Several clamps will help the beginner master in such a matter. Thanks to them, cutting will be much easier. It is much more convenient to control the material and the tool when the sheet is securely pressed against the table. Thanks to the reliable fixation of the plywood, damage to the table itself can be avoided.
- Drawings of any product can be found on the Internet.
- The drawing from sheet to plywood can be copied.
- How to cut plywood with a jigsaw to avoid chipping? When working with hand jigsaw you should always make sure that it moves perpendicular to the pile.
Tips for working with a hand and electric jigsaw:
- When working with an electric jigsaw, observe the tilt angle of the platform. Most often it can be customized.
- In the process of cutting simple figures follow the position of the blade. The cut should take place from the front of the figure contour.
- If the cut is made in a straight line, then in this case you should be guided by the pointer (on the platform). If there is no pointer, the contour should be drawn with a pencil.
- To cut a complex hole with an electric jigsaw, you need to make a hole in any part of its contour. The drill diameter should be larger than the blade width.
- If you are going to make a hole with a hand jigsaw, then the part should be pierced with an awl. Then you should thread the canvas through it. After that, the part is again fixed in the frame.
- If an electric jigsaw is used, then the tool is turned in the process of work, and not a sheet of plywood (if you need to make a turn according to the picture). When working with a hand jigsaw, turn the plywood.
- If you need to cut out a figure and a plywood sheet with cutouts, then cut out the cutouts first (turning the sheet is much easier than a small part).
- During work, care should be taken to ensure that the material does not overheat. When the edge becomes hot, you need to pause for a while to allow the file to cool down. Otherwise, the teeth will lose their sharpening.
Important! Before changing the file or cooling it down, you must first de-energize the tool. Also, place the electric jigsaw on the surface only when it comes to a complete stop. If you neglect this rule, you can lose your fingers.
- The canvas should be well taut. Otherwise, the file will break.
Finally
If we take into account all the subtleties and nuances during work, then the result of all negative moments can be avoided.
Despite the huge assortment of power tools, more and more new samples appear that perform a certain job better. If, for example, you cut a large circular saw plywood, laminate or chipboard, it is difficult due to the size of the saw, since the circular saw, universal tool and it can cut workpieces up to 55mm thick.
A small circular saw is another matter, especially when you are only sawing plywood, which saws excellently. laminated chipboard, for furniture, with excellent quality cut.
Such a tool appeared in 2014, from by BOSCH, circular saw PKS 16 Multi. In appearance, this tool looks more like a jigsaw, but this is a mini circular that can be used for cutting various materials, up to 16mm thick. This tool fits perfectly in one hand, weighing only 1.9 kg. With a power of 400 watts, the saw blade speed is 6400 rpm. For cutting various materials, the set includes three saw blades with a diameter of 65mm, one diamond and two with brazed teeth.
Of course, it cannot be said that this is the only tool in this form, since there are similar analogues, including the Chinese mini circular saw from Aliexpress, the universal circular saw Rhythm UPD-900 and many others. But such a mini circular saw is well suited for home renovation, carpentry or your favorite hobby.
With such a saw, you can in a matter of moments get a cut of any desired shape: straight, curved or angular, and when used, the accuracy of the seam is improved.
Moreover, a diamond blade can be cut solid materials... The cutting depth is adjustable, so you can start cutting in the middle of the sheet, which makes it possible to make cuts for kitchen sinks and other cuts in the middle of a sheet of plywood or chipboard.
Author of PBT
It is believed that without professional tool high-quality wood cut or sheet materials do not execute. Today we will talk about ways to make a clean, even cut without chips, on our own and without using expensive equipment and consumables.
Cutting tools and mechanics of their work
If you do not take into account stationary machines for cutting, alternatives for self made not so much. From the available tools, you can offer circular and pendulum saws, in the common people referred to as crosscutters and jigsaws. It is also possible to perform a sufficiently high-quality cut using a angle grinder, on which a saw blade for wood with victorious teeth is installed. But this is not the most effective and, moreover, not the safest option.
In the process of cutting with any type of power tool, the working bodies move at a very high speed, and therefore the machining mechanics remain, as it were, behind the scenes. However, understanding it is the key to getting a clean, chip-free edge. The simplest principle is the basis for the work of pendulum saws. The cut is carried out at direct movement saw blade, while the size of the removed fragments completely depends on the size of the tooth and its setting.
Chips appear due to the inhomogeneity of the processed material, in particular due to the hard crust of laminated sheet materials or due to the fact that the fibers solid wood have different densities. Chips can form from different sides of the product, depending on the shape of the tooth, feed force and speed of movement of the working body. When working with a jigsaw, the appearance of chips is due either to the fact that the teeth pull out large fragments from the seamy side, or due to the pushing of the upper layer, in which it is not cut off, but breaks out in large fragments.
The work of the teeth of a circular disc is in many ways similar to a jigsaw, with the only exception that their movement is directed strictly in one direction, and they move at a very high speed. The direction (angle) of the applied force is also a significant factor: if the jigsaw saw moves strictly perpendicular to the surface, then the circular cuts at an arbitrary angle, depending on both the diameter of the disc and the thickness of the part. This can play into the hands: oblique immersion of the tooth contributes to a more accurate cutting of chips, but from the back side, due to the tangential movement of the cutting edges, large fragments can be pulled out. Of course, a circular saw will only be able to make a straight cut.
Choice of saw blades and blades
When cutting, cleanliness and processing speed are inversely related. It is worth noting that chips on the cut will appear in any case, so the main task is to reduce their size to such a value where they can be easily eliminated by subsequent processing. The size of the chips will be the smaller, the smaller the size of the tooth and the closer to right angle under which cutting edge touches the surface of the material. To select a circular saw blade these are the two most important factor out of three.
The third can be called the amount of setting - the offset of adjacent teeth, which is quite simple to determine by attaching a ruler to them. To ensure a clean cut, the wiring should be minimal, but do not forget that in this case, when you try to cut a thick board or a sheet of plywood, the disc can be trivially clamped or the end will burn from strong friction.
Jigsaw blades are more varied. For a chip-free cut, a series of clean-cut saws are used, for example, BOSCH has a line of blades called CleanWood. Their main difference is their small size and the absence of a pronounced orientation of the teeth. They are usually in the shape of an isosceles triangle and cut in both directions of travel.
Also saws for a clean cut differ practically complete absence wiring and opposite direction sharpening adjacent teeth. In order to ensure the possibility of a curly cut with a small wiring, the files have a very small width, which makes them quite fragile.
For fine cutting of sheet materials, blades designed to work with metal products... These files have smallest size teeth of the known, therefore, the cut is performed slowly, but with the highest quality index. Due to the significant width of the canvases for metal, a fine figured cut can be carried out only with a significant bend radius, on average about 60-80 cm.
Note also that the bluntness of the teeth, which is typical for low-quality saws with a "run" of 3-5 meters, also leads to the formation of chips. Therefore, do not skimp when purchasing consumables if the quality of processing is really important to you.
Zero clearance technique
The most commonly used by carpentry craftsmen is the sole finishing principle. cutting tool, which consists in reducing the gap between the working body and the clamping platform. This is almost guaranteed to eliminate the crust breaking effect in the top layer of the material.
Zero clearance is achieved by attaching the cover plate to the tool base plate. The pad has only one narrow hole (or slot) that fits snugly against the cutting body. Because of this, even with a high feed force, the teeth are guaranteed to cut small chips, and not turn out the chips in the upper layer of the part.
When using pads, it is imperative that they do not scratch or damage the surface of the part. Therefore, most often they are made from a material that is inferior in hardness to the processed one, for example, MDF or drywall. Unfortunately, such an overlay is not enough for a long time, which is why it has to be changed every 4-5 meters of the cut.
More durable pads can be made of sheet plastic (PVC, fluoroplastic), fiberglass or metal. In the latter case, the surface of the pad should be carefully polished and soft metals such as aluminum or duralumin should be used to reduce vibration.
Using adhesive tapes
The same principle can be used to protect the back of the material to be cut. Tape should be glued along the cutting line, which will protect against pulling out large fragments. Pasting surfaces is one of the few ways to ensure the cleanliness of a figured cut with a jigsaw. Unfortunately, masking tape it is not suitable for this in the best way due to its low strength.
The best quality cut can be obtained by pasting an aluminum or fiberglass reinforced tape tape. It should be wide enough to cover 15-20 mm on each side of the cut line. The density of the sticker is also important: the tape must be well pressed with a dry rag swab and by any means to exclude the formation of folds.
Tapes with very tenacious glue should be avoided. In the process of tearing off, they can carry away small fibers and fragments. laminated surface dissected by microcracks that form during cutting. Also pay attention to how easy the adhesive is to remove and whether the adhesive is good enough to handle rough materials like raw plywood or OSB.
Ensuring a perfectly clean cut
For most parts, it is sufficient to reduce the chip size to 0.2-0.5 mm. Such small irregularities of the cut edge are not striking; if desired, they can be easily eliminated by chamfering with an emery bar or smearing with a wax corrector pencil. It is also possible to grind the end face with emery paper if a sufficient allowance has been given during cutting.
Nevertheless, even at home, it is possible to achieve a cut quality comparable to that of a saw with two high-speed discs. This is possible only when the tool moves along the guide rail, in extreme cases - along the temporary stop bar.
First, you need to make two cuts about 0.5 mm deep on both sides of the part to indicate the thickness of the cut. Along the edges of the cutting line, you need to scratch two grooves under a straight ruler. This is done either with a segmented or oblique boot knife (for chipboard and uncoated wood) or with a sharpened drill or victorious cutter (for laminated materials).
The depth of the grooves should be at least half the thickness of the outer layer, which is inhomogeneous with respect to the main body of material. This method requires high precision matching the grooves and the cutting line, but this is the only way to ensure a perfectly flat edged end that does not require additional processing.