Elegant, beautiful and majestic calla flower is perfect for decorating wedding bouquets, as there is a belief that these flowers bring happiness and joy to the family. In addition, the home calla flower is great for decorating rooms in the house as part of various flower arrangements. They become a symbol of grandeur and beauty in bedrooms, living rooms and in combination with various accessories and colors convey true charm with their luxurious simplicity.
Characteristic features of the flower:
Due to the unique shape of the flower, indoor plant calla, considered one of the most interesting and wonderful flowers, having a wide variety of shades: purple, pink, yellow, green orange, etc. They are also given other names, for example, mini callas, aronnica, simply tubular or pork. South Africa is the birthplace of the calla. It is grown mainly from the rhizome or from the bulb.
Features of the appearance of calla flowers
Regardless of the specific choice, callas look quite characteristic. Flowers arranged on petioles sufficient length. In turn, the basal leaves are connected to a dense thick rhizome. The inflorescences themselves are on a leafless stem, have cobs and bedspreads. The covering sheet, also known as the coverlet, is a larger colored funnel-shaped leaf that wraps around the so-called yellow "candle" covered with small flowers. The size of the plate of a bright green leaf is approximately 6-14 cm long and 5-11 cm wide. Arrowheads also have white or silver inclusions.
Homemade calla flower. Care
The meaning of calla feng shui
Before planting a homemade calla flower in our apartment, we set ourselves interest Ask: What does it mean anyway? These flowers represent our femininity, youth and charm of our soul. Many believe that callas growing in the house protect from negativity, bring only peace and happiness. They are like cupid, they attract two lonely halves and connect their hearts forever. Home feng shui calla flower smooths out disagreements in the family.
In addition, it also affects human health. Firstly, few people know that this is an excellent antidote for snake bites. Secondly, flowers perfectly increase not only immunity, but also charge with vivacity and at the same time calmness.
Calla care at home
Multicolored calla flowers with stunning beautiful leaves always wonderfully harmonize in the garden. A big plus of the plant is that its undersized varieties are successfully grown in open field, as well as in special containers. This is a classic greenhouse culture, so cutting inflorescences can be done even in winter. Most lovers of snow-white callas plant them as a houseplant. Plasticity is its main advantage. Features of the content of these flowers, the time of their planting and the dormant period - these are the main criteria by which they determine in which month they can bloom.
We care for callas with warmth and care
Wild callas grow in areas where the climate is mild and warm. In our local latitude, the period of their flowering falls on the summer - July-August. At first, when flower stalks are formed in a plant, it needs a fairly long lighting(not less than 12 hours). Further, calla already needs less light, but here it is also necessary to observe the time frame (no less than 8 hours, but no more than 10 hours).
When caring for a calla flower at home, owners need to know that exotic plant needs a pronounced state rest. Provide it best in winter time year, while watering and feeding should not be much and often, as we say in other seasons. These procedures are done so that the leaves remain green, saturated and provided with plenty of water.
In other months of the year, the homemade calla flower requires an appropriate organic and mineral top dressing. The desire to achieve stronger peduncles and properly developed inflorescences will help knowledge of the individual details of cultivation. stick simple rules caring for a calla flower at home: when feeding callas, first apply organic fertilizer and only then only mineral. Flowers consume organic matter primarily in a rotten form.
Features of growing potted calla
Growing potted calla is easy and simple
Calla fastidious flower. He loves only shady and semi-shady habitats. Capacity for cultivation, it is best to pick up in the form of a spacious pot with a height of more than 60 cm and a width within a radius of 15-20 cm. Make the base from simple garden soil, where you add a small amount of clay, sand, rotted manure, vermiculite and peat. Add minerals to this mass and mix gently. It must be remembered that during the growth of flowers require a further supply of organic mineral fertilizers.
In order for the shoots of a growing flower not to shrink, along the edge big pot dig a hole and fertilize any organic matter that is in the house. It can be fruit peel, tea leaves, seed shells, etc. Then, everything is sprinkled with a substrate and watered with water of medium room temperature or dissolved mineral fertilizer. You can easily do without a transplant. Then from time to time replace the topsoil with a more nutritious fertilizer.
Due to the fact that the calla houseplant loves moisture, it should always be kept in humid conditions and avoid drying out. To speed up the processing of organics into humus, use earthworms. They enrich the soil with oxygen by loosening.
When the first flower stalks appear, it will be appropriate to apply nitrogen-potassium fertilizer, for example, urea. During the dissolution period, it is advisable to add calcium in the form of egg shells. This is necessary so that when cutting calla lilies, it stays fresh longer.
Protection during illness home flower calla is carried out in the same way as for other plants in pots. Sometimes it is damaged due to powdery mildew.
callas multiply thanks to tubers. Before planting in a container, the prepared substrate is spilled with boiling water, allowed to cool and a tablespoon of the complex is added. mineral fertilizer which are acidic.
Types and photo selection of home calla flowers
Callas are a charming creation of mother nature, which today have many of the most different varieties. A thematic selection of photographs will allow you to fully admire the sublime and aristocratic views of this popular exotic plant:
Of the most floriferous ornamental plants callas should be isolated elliott. The size of the Elliott bedspread reaches about 15 cm. The outer part is colored green-yellow, the inner part is yellow. White blotches are present on heart-shaped leaves. The Danish species needs constant watering and prefers more light.
The most common variety is this. It has fleshy rather dense leaves, up to 45 cm long. The flowering stem itself can grow up to 1 meter. The white inflorescence expanded from above has a funnel shape and yellowish cobs.
An interesting species, distinguished by its small size, is. It is small because it grows only up to 50 cm. Pretty flowers are painted in red or bright pink colors. It is rightfully considered the original species, from which a wide variety of variegated shades can be successfully derived, for example, lilac, dark purple, etc.
It should be noted tender and fragrant. The luxurious purple hue and the smell of the sea breeze make it special. Depending on the growing environment, this type of calla grows from 60 to 120 cm. Amethyst is worthy of being considered a royal flower, as the boudoirs of court ladies and queens adorned the flowers with its flowers.
Find mutual language with sophisticated calla flowers, it's really not difficult. Enough more care and proper care, then both in the garden and at home they will sparklingly delight you for many years. With all our hearts we wish to find friendship with them, let each of you live these little flower fairies.
Calla is one of the most elegant plants from the Aroid family, flowering in room conditions.
Its "folk" names: calla, aronnik. She comes from marshy forests South Africa.
In nature, there are 8 types of callas, which are divided into 2 groups: tuberous and rhizome.
In addition to the type of root system, they differ in the size and color of the bedspread (varieties of tuberous callas have different colors, and rhizomatous ones bloom mainly with white flowers).
Of these, suitable for growing at home:
Ethiopian calla (Zantedeschia)- the largest species cultivated in indoor floriculture. The large leaves are heart-shaped. It blooms with funnel-shaped white flowers. Unlike colored callas, during the dormant period it retains leaves and remains green. The most popular varieties are: Green Goddess, Zhemchug, Nikolay, Childsiana; Albomaculata.
Calla Eliot reaches a height of up to 50cm. It has large variegated leaves, a flower cover yellow color. Known varieties: Black-eyed Beauty, Yellow Corner, Vermeer, Black Beauty, Captain Chelse.
Calla Remani- compact tuberous species (up to 70 cm high). On its basis, varieties with red, pink, purple, black shades of the bedspread are bred. Popular varieties: Chameleon, Evening, Indian summer. Anneke, Black Forest, Bolero.
Callas in pots, home care, which are not as difficult as it seems at first glance, still need a special approach. In order for them not only to grow, but also to bloom in room conditions, the grower is required to create the optimal combination of conditions that are most similar to natural ones.
Calla: home care - reproduction, transplant
reproduction
At home, callas are propagated mainly vegetatively. In zantedeschia, the rhizome is divided into parts. Each of them must have at least one kidney. Sections are dried and powdered charcoal or disinfected with green paint. The division of rhizomes must be carried out at least once every 4 years. Otherwise, lateral small shoots are formed around the mother bush, which will not bloom. After that, the delenki are planted in a separate pot.
In colored callas, the daughter nodules are separated from the parent.
An overgrown calla tuber is ready for division
Propagation by seeds is the most hard way. This is due to the low percentage of their germination. If it was possible to get ripe seeds, then before planting they must be soaked in a growth stimulator (Kornevin, Epin, Heteroauxin, Etamon, Zircon), and then left for germination in a warm place on a damp sponge or gauze. After the seeds have hatched, they can be planted in the ground. However, there is another complication here: planting material often rots. To reduce losses to a minimum, it is better to moisten the sprouts not from above, but through the wick. Plantings are grown at a temperature of + 22ºС. Seedlings dive 2 months after sowing.
Transfer
Calla lilies are transplanted annually in the spring after the end of the dormant period. At the same time, you can divide the rhizomes or tubers. Pots use wide, not too deep. Drainage up to 5 cm thick is required at the bottom. Callas are planted in pots no deeper than 5-10 cm.
In colored callas, the selected tubers should be elastic, lively, with a smooth yellowish skin. Before planting, it is recommended to keep them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or treat them with a fungicide.
Delenki of white callas are planted at a depth equal to their 3-fold diameter of their rhizomes.
At first, you should not water the planting heavily - there is a high probability of decay (it is better to spray from a spray bottle). After the appearance of sprouts (about 14 days after transplantation), active watering and top dressing begin.
Callas in pots: home care - soil, lighting, temperature and humidity, conditions for flowering
The soil
For tuberous varieties of callas suitable composition soil will be as follows: sheet, sod land, humus, coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 1: 0.5. For rhizomatous varieties, you can use a universal soil for flowering plants or replace it with such a mixture: equal parts of humus, leafy soil, coarse sand, 2 parts of sod land, ¼ of clay. In both cases, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate is added to 3 liters of the total volume of the substrate.
Lighting and location
Callas need bright diffused light. Daylight hours should be 10-12 hours. In autumn and winter, it is necessary to provide additional lighting with an intensity of at least 700-800 Lux. The lack of light leads to a loss of decorativeness of the plant: the petioles of the leaves are stretched, there is no flowering, in tuberous callas, the color of the bracts is blanching.
In summer, the best location for the zantedeschia will be the west and east windows. In winter, on the contrary, to get additional sunlight, it is better to rearrange it to the south side.
Temperature and humidity
For different types calla temperature and humidity in the room has some differences.
Rhizome plants during the period of active vegetation feel good at + 17-21ºС. After flowering during the dormant period, they are kept at + 10-13ºС for at least 2 months.
"White" callas need high humidity air (70-80%). To do this, their leaves are sprayed with soft water, the pots are placed on pallets with wet moss, expanded clay. It is even better to use special humidifiers.
The optimum temperature for the development of "colored" callas will be + 20-24ºС. During the "rest" of plants, it is increased to + 25-28ºС so that the tubers ripen and flower buds form. tuberous callas rather moderate air humidity (50-60%). Every day they wipe the leaves with a damp sponge.
Conditions for flowering: why does not calla bloom?
It often happens that a calla bought in a store does not bloom at home. One of the reasons for this behavior is that the “vegetation-rest” regime is violated. Plants that have gone on sale are “pumped up” with phytohormones to maintain a presentable appearance. To send the aronnik into "hibernation", you need to reduce watering and put the pot in a cool room.
Wrong irrigation mode also "slows down" the beginning of flowering. Calla as a tropical plant likes to actively "quench its thirst" during the growing season. This is especially true for the Ethiopian calla. It is important to remember that watering cold water these "green Africans" are impossible - there is a high probability of rotting of the roots. It is better to use soft warm (+ 20-25 ° C) settled water for this.
The wrong pot size is another probable causes lack of flowering in callas. This Tropican is growing quite fast. When it becomes crowded in a pot, she stops growing and is in no hurry to please with her elegant flowers. After a dormant period in the overgrown "family", it is necessary to separate the "children" that weaken the mother plant and transplant them into separate pots. At the same time, the soil is changed to fresh.
Incorrect feeding regime negatively affects the calla's ability to bloom. With an excess of nitrogen, the plant "fattens" - it develops deciduous mass to the detriment of flowering. Therefore, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, "responsible" for flowering.
With insufficient planting depth of a tuber or rhizome, an active growth of lateral shoots occurs in the soil. If they are not separated and replanted, then there will be no flowering.
Calla: home care - feeding and watering
Watering
In watering, callas also have different requirements. So, "colored" callas are watered sparingly: stagnation of moisture in the soil can be fatal for them (rots form on the tubers). excess water drained from the pallet. The next watering is carried out when the top layer of soil dries 2-3 cm deep.
"White" callas love abundant watering, especially during the period of active growth. The soil in the pot should always be moist.
After flowering, in all species of this plant, watering is reduced to 1 time per week, and after 1-2 months of this regime, tuberous specimens stop watering altogether.
top dressing
With the release of the calla from the dormant period, it is fed every 2 weeks, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers. When conducting foliar dressings plants are sprayed so that the liquid does not get on the bracts (ugly spots form on them and the flower loses its decorative effect).
Calla lilies in pots: home care - why do they die?
Callas in pots at home most often die when improper care, as a result of which weakened plants are affected by pests and diseases.
The most malicious "lovers" of calla are spider mite, whitefly and aphids. For their destruction, acaricides (Aktelik, Sunmayt, Vertimek) and insecticides (Fitoverm, Biotlin, Aktara, Akarin) are used.
With improper irrigation and temperature regime callas are often affected by various bacterial and fungal infections. root rot can be recognized by such signs: mass wilting of leaves and peduncles, necrotization of the root system. It is promoted by high humidity and air temperature, excess nitrogen in the soil. To help the plant in this case, it is necessary to temporarily stop watering it, partially replace the wet soil with dry soil, treat the plant with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Previkur, Rovral).
Gray rot, caused by the pathogenic fungus Botrytis cinerea, spreads through contaminated soil, water, and wind. Its characteristic feature is a gray coating on the plant.
When defeated bacterial rot flower stalks, roots, leaf bases darken, over time the plant dies. Sick callas should be destroyed.
If rounded brown spots appear on the leaves, gradually merging, this means the plant is sick with anthracnose. The damaged parts of the calla are removed, the plant itself is treated with fungicidal preparations.
Why do calla lilies turn yellow at home?
Calla leaves turn yellow when kept at home for 2 reasons: preparation for a dormant period and care errors.
After the plant has faded, it begins to prepare for a “well-deserved rest”: in “colored” callas, all the leaves turn yellow and die off, while the “white” zantedescias retain green foliage.
Improper care of callas affects appearance plants. How tropical plant he needs high humidity, which is difficult to maintain at the proper level in living quarters (especially in heating season). Therefore, callas should often be sprayed with settled water, rearranged away from heating appliances.
Waterlogging or overdrying of the substrate also leads to a change in the color of the leaves and their wilting.
Although feces require a long daylight hours (10-12 hours), too bright lighting depresses her. Therefore, if the plant is on the south window, it must be shaded or rearranged to another place.
Burn on calla leaf
Long-term cultivation of calla lilies in one pot without transplanting and replacing the soil leads to its depletion and, as a result, to yellowing of the leaves. deficit nutrients also causes increased fragility leaf petioles. With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves lose their glossiness, their ends droop, and with a grip of potassium, they rise up.
Calla- strict and elegant, at the same time touching and tender, this flower is irresistible with its unique grace. Translated from Greek its name means "beautiful", and, undoubtedly, the flower fully justifies it.
Origin of callas
Callas came to Europe from the tropical regions of South Africa, where they grow wild in swampy meadows, along the banks of lakes or rivers and reach very large sizes.
Flowers can be divided into 2 groups:
- white, whose origin is established from the Ethiopian calla, voluminous bushes grow up to 1.5 m high;
- colored, a variety of bright colors, bred from the pink-red variety Remani and yellow-gold calla Eliotta. The height of their bush is up to about 0.5 m.
Species and varieties
All calla flowers, regardless of variety, outwardly look unusual: on an arrow from 50 to 80 cm long there is a yellow peduncle, similar to a candle, it is enveloped by only one funnel-shaped petal, which is called a veil. Very small inflorescences are located on the peduncle and emit a very delicate sweet aroma (growing in open ground).
The first group - rhizomatous, their root system has neither nodules nor bulbs. White Ethiopians are very moisture-loving, they do not shed their large glossy leaves even for a dormant period, so the plant always remains decorative. To their illumination high requirements during active growth and dormancy.
Their most common varieties are:
- green goddess- up to 90 cm high, giving green bedspreads of incomparable beauty;
- Pearl- bushes up to 0.5 m high;
- Nicholas- tall, with dark leaves, the coverlet is green below, gradually turning into white.
Plants the second group - bulbous.
From the Calla Remani series, the varieties most in demand are:
- Evening- with a satin coverlet of an unusually beautiful black and purple color;
- Chameleon- the bushes are low, a peach-colored bedspread with golden tints;
- Indian summer- these callas have a garnet-red veil.
From the Calla Eliott series, the most popular varieties (these varieties have spotted leaves):
- black-eyed beauty- a flower of creamy cream color with a light lemon tint;
- Vermeer- has a slightly corrugated bedspread, white with stains on the outside and red-lilac with a transition to dark purple inside.
Ensuring proper fit and care
Flower growers who already have their own planting material and dig it out for the winter take out the tubers after winter storage carefully examine whether they are healthy. A mandatory disinfection procedure is soaking the tubers in a solution of manganese for several hours.
Further, they are planted in containers, slightly larger than the size of the tuber. It is not recommended to place them immediately in too large pots, in this case all their growth energy will be directed to the development of the root system.
Calla lilies love sour or slightly acidic soil, the following composition would be best suited for them:
- sand - 1 part;
- peat - 1 part;
- leaf ground - 1 part;
- sod land - 2 parts.
It does not hurt to add a little superphosphate and complex micronutrient fertilizers to self-preparing soil.
Having placed the treated tubers in the prepared soil, they put the containers in a bright place, start watering in a week, make sure that the soil is always moist, but you should not get carried away with excessive watering. After 15–20 days, the buds will wake up and start growing. With the advent of leaves, watering should be plentiful (taking into account good drainage).
Try to ensure daytime temperatures are within 20–23°C, nighttime 15–18°C.
If the flowers were stored, transplanted into new flowerpots, they should be brought into a warm, bright room in early or mid-March and watered, thus interrupting the dormant period. Flowers should be accustomed to sunlight gradually.
During the growing season, callas require a lot of diffused sunlight. It is better to protect the plant from direct rays. The perfect place for him there will be a window sill, on which the sun hits only in the afternoon.
Watering for growth and flowering requires moderate, but regular. In hot, dry summers, the amount of watering will need to be increased. The large leaves of the flower evaporate a lot of moisture, and daily spraying will only benefit them. It is important to prevent water from getting on the cover.
Given the origin of white callas, they are provided with abundant watering. Still, stagnant water should not be allowed.
If fertilizer was not added to the hole before planting, during the growing season the flower can be fertilized 1 or 2 times a week with complex fertilizers for flowers.
The fertilizer period should be stopped after flowering, then watering is significantly reduced.
Purchased planting material
For those who have just decided to have this exquisite flower, planting material can be purchased at flower shops from the end of February.
When purchasing tubers, it is important to pay attention to the appearance:
- About their health will speak the density, elasticity and freshness of the root (reminiscent of a young potato). Bought in this condition, they will throw out an arrow in the year of planting - a peduncle. Shriveled, sluggish tubers are best not to acquire;
- The larger the tuber, the more arrows it will fire. Best dimensions for purchase - more than 7 cm in diameter.
After bringing the tubers home, they should be laid out in a cool place for a couple of weeks, until the end of the dormant period. In the middle - end of March, the dormant period is interrupted, the tubers are planted in pots for seedlings.
You need to plant a flower correctly, the tubercle on the tuber should be located at the top.
When is the right time to transplant callas?
It is permissible to carry out the first transplant when the seedlings are well rooted. Plants are transplanted into larger pots.
Flowers grow rapidly, therefore, after each flowering, calla lilies must be transplanted, separating new offspring from the rhizomes, and the formed nodules from the tubers. If this is not done, very soon the plant will not have enough air and nutrition, the leaf and flowers will become smaller, the calla will become weak and susceptible to disease.
Each time you need to transplant into a larger one, preparing a special slightly acidic, well-fertilized mixture.
A flower bought at a seedling age in a store should be immediately transplanted into a larger pot, having prepared suitable soil for it.
How is it possible for a flower to reproduce?
At home, the reproduction process is vegetative, that is, rhizomatous species reproduce by dividing the roots of the mother bush, in tuberous plants, young nodules are separated from the main tuber.
Reproduction by dividing the bush
Replanting the root in the fall after flowering, it is necessary to separate a part of the rhizome with the offspring from it and place it in a container with a nutrient mixture for rooting.
After that, transplant it into a separate pot with soil, you do not need to water it for the first week after transplantation, then you need to provide watering that does not allow the soil to dry out, and in the spring it can already be planted as an independent plant.
Reproduction by tubers
From the tuber, you can determine whether it is ready for division: at first, small nodules are tightly attached to the mother bush. As the plant develops, isthmuses appear in children.
When ripe, the isthmuses become thinner and break off easily, only in such a maturity the bush can be propagated, and the separated parts can be grown as independent ones. If children are separated by force, by cutting, rotting may begin at this place.
What diseases are callas susceptible to?
When the air temperature rises, inexperienced flower growers sometimes water the flowers excessively, they suffer from such care. wet rot of rhizomes or bulbs, goes to the bases of the leaves. The disease can quickly spread to neighboring callas, so the affected plant should be removed without delay. In order not to breed wet rot, regulation of air temperature and irrigation is required.
The plant may be damaged by gray rot if the planting material was infected. Before disembarkation, it is necessary to carry out preventive disinfection.
brown rot strikes the flower when abundant waterings are made with enhanced nitrogen fertilizers. When the disease has appeared, watering must be stopped, the layer removed wet ground around the bush and sprinkle with dry soil.
Pest protection
If unnaturally twisted leaves are noticed on the plant, and the flower is covered with a sticky coating, the calla began to attack aphids. If they are found, processing will be required. chemical preparation from aphids, or try to fight it with one of folk methods: spray or thoroughly wash the leaves with a solution of laundry soap.
He also likes to attack callas, which can be detected only after tiny yellow spots or dried areas of leaf plates are noticed on the leaves. In order to prevent the appearance of a tick on flowers, during the dry period, callas must be poured with water. If a tick has already appeared, treat the plant with Fitoverm or Vertimek.
- Calla lilies begin to release leaves only after their underground part has formed - in healthy tubers, the first foliage appears two to three weeks after planting, from weak plants, the appearance of leaves will have to wait a month or more. You should be patient so as not to break the hole in order to peep the development process;
- With the advent of young greenery, it is important to start spraying the plant, otherwise the edges of the leaves will dry out, the plant will lose its high aesthetics;
- It is necessary to dig up the tubers when transplanting very carefully, otherwise they can be easily damaged.
FAQ
What to do with room calla after it has faded?
While the flower retains green leaves, you need to continue to water the plant little by little (less and less with each watering) until the leaves dry out. After that, the calla can be sent to rest, taking it to a cool place.
Is it possible to ensure long-term flowering of callas?
Maintaining a temperature of 13 to 15 degrees, providing from the beginning of growth a sufficient amount nitrogen fertilizers, before flowering - providing phosphorus fertilizers, and at the end of flowering - potash, the flower is given the opportunity to bloom longer.
Why doesn't calla bloom?
One reason may be that the flower for a long time not transplanted, the bulbs have grown, the mother tuber has weakened and does not throw out the peduncle. Insufficient lighting during the dormant period also affects the flowering of callas.
Calla is considered a real royal flower, symbolizing calmness, respect and beauty. Home care for this plant is simple, but you should know some of its features so that the flowers do not grind and retain their brightness.
plant description
At the first sign of root rot, stop watering or replace the soil with a less moist one. To get rid of gray rot, as well as anthracnose, which is characterized by the appearance on the leaves brown spots, treatment of the plant with fungicides is required.
The bacterial rot that the calla flower is susceptible to cannot be treated. Home care must necessarily include preventive measures to prevent the occurrence of this serious disease. They consist in carrying out the processing of tubers for the purpose of disinfection. If the plant has already shown signs bacterial rot(darkening of peduncles, leaves and roots), all affected parts must be removed immediately. With a significant lesion, it is necessary to dispose of the flower completely.
Among insect pests, aphids and spider mites are the most dangerous for calla lilies, a sign of the appearance of which are small blotches on yellowish leaves. To combat the tick, drugs such as "Fitoverm", "Vertimek", etc. pests. Against aphids, it is enough to spray the flower with a solution of laundry soap.
On a note
Despite its amazing beauty, calla is a poisonous flower. Once inside the body, it can cause intoxication, vomiting. Therefore, it is worth placing this plant away from children to avoid possible accidents.
Nothing complicated is for a plant like calla, care at home. The photos of these elegant, sophisticated flowers posted in the article demonstrate what beauty can be grown on your windowsill with a minimum of effort.
Anyone who has ever seen a calla will agree that this flower enchants with tenderness and grace. The plant looks good in any room, forming a spectacular center of plant composition. This culture is easy to propagate and grow in a pot at home, and even a novice grower can care for calla lilies.
Important boarding advice room calla and caring for her at home concerns changing the pot. During this procedure, many make the same mistake: they pour a lot of earth, because of which the roots begin to rot. The flower grower is at a loss, tries to treat the "sick" different methods, but all you need to do is remove the excess land. In addition to transplanting, calla lilies need to update the top layer of the soil mixture. Some part of the earth is taken out, and a nutrient substrate is poured in its place.
It is recommended to relocate callas to a larger pot annually or once every 2 years. In the second case, the development of the plant is artificially slowed down by pinching young shoots. Sick and weak specimens should not be transplanted. It is better to wait until they recover to normal.
Growing from bulbs
The mistake of beginners is that they immediately plant germinated seeds in moist soil, where they rot. Instead, it is better to decompose them into a shallow container, three-quarters filled with a mixture of sand, peat, humus and soddy soil. It is desirable to take all components in equal parts.
Having waited for friendly shoots, young flowers can be dived into separate pots. The optimal period for picking is from the beginning of mid-May. Weak specimens are best removed immediately, since in the future they are unlikely to turn out to be full-fledged plants. In long boxes, callas can be grown, provided that the distance between adjacent bushes is at least 40 cm.