It is not difficult to install sockets in the house on your own, since it does not require special knowledge and skills. So even an ordinary user can carry out installation. You just need to follow the instructions and tips below.
Sockets are used in every apartment. They are needed to connect household appliances to the network. Even a non-professional electrician can do the installation with his own hands. Do-it-yourself installation does not cause difficulties and allows you to save on the services of a master. The houses use electrical outlets of a hidden and outdoor type. Next, we will consider detailed installation instructions for each option.
Installation work must be carried out with a complete shutdown of the power supply. To do this, turn off the machines or plugs in the switchboard. It is strictly forbidden to turn them on until the end of work, so family members should be warned about the repair.
First make sure the conductors are de-energized. This is possible with an indicator screwdriver. Work under voltage is prohibited!
What you need to pay attention to when installing: 
- monitor the condition of the cable insulation and do not use damaged ones;
- you can not bite with wire cutters conductors that are energized;
- it is advisable to follow the recommendations for installing electrical outlets - at least 20 cm from the floor.
To work, you need a professional tool:
- indicator screwdriver;
- perforator;
- alabaster;
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
- pliers;
- clerical knife for stripping insulation;
- rubber gloves, goggles;
- the socket itself;
- conductors;
- socket box.
The tool must have insulated handles.
Types of sockets and socket boxes, conditions for their installation
Each electrical outlet consists of contacts, a base and a protective housing. Through the contacts, current is transmitted from the cable to the device. Contacts and a protective case are held on the base. The outer frame performs a decorative function and allows you to connect the plug of the device.
Installation conditions:
- It is necessary to take into account the power of the devices connected to the power point. Based on the value obtained, an electrical outlet is selected.
- The choice of cables depends on the laying method.
- When connecting electrical wires, they will need to be connected. You can not use only the twisting method, this is prohibited by safety rules. It is better to use terminals and clamps.
- It is impossible to lay conductors by interlacing them in bundles.
According to the type of installation, external and internal sockets are distinguished. Outdoor products are used with open wiring, internal - with a hidden network. The principle of connection is the same, the only difference is in the way of fastening to the wall.
outdoor
Outdoor sockets are used for open wiring, especially in rooms with wooden trim. Installation is simple: the product is screwed to the wall on a special non-combustible gasket.
Internal
To install an internal outlet, you will need a special box, which is placed in a recess in the wall and secured with screws. The box can be made of metals (the old way) and plastic (according to modern requirements).
The installation process itself is as follows: 
- removal of the cover from the outlet, installation in the box;
- fastening with screws;
- wire connection;
- installation of a decorative overlay.
Then electricity is supplied.
Replacing the built-in socket
Before installing a new outlet, remove the old one. But before removing, be sure to de-energize the room.
Dismantling
Action algorithm:
- turning off the power, preparing the tool, putting on protective gloves and goggles;
- checking the absence of current with an indicator screwdriver;
- the cover of the old electrical outlet is unscrewed;
- the working part is removed, the wires are cut off;
- the socket is cleaned (if any);
- if there is no socket box, a new one is installed and sealed with alabaster;
- electrical wires are pulled out.
Then you need to install a new device.
Installation
How to install a new outlet: 
- wires are cleaned by 1.5-2 cm;
- conductors are connected to the device;
- electrical wires are bent, a socket box is installed and fastened with lamps or screws;
- a decorative frame is installed.
Now you can supply electricity and check the performance of the outlet.
Do-it-yourself installation in the wall of an apartment: instructions
There are certain requirements for installing sockets in an apartment. First you need to calculate the power that is needed for the power point. Consider the nuances of installation in rooms with different microclimates. A special connection requires a power outlet.
Power calculation
Power is the main characteristic of an electrical device. Before buying an electrical outlet, calculate what total load it will withstand. Also consider whether the wiring can withstand such a load. Look for data in special tables that reflect the cross-sections of the cores, material, voltage, current strength and wire power.
Bathroom standards
The bathroom is a room with a high level of humidity. If a power point is installed here, then adhere to the following rules:
- sockets must be installed at least half a meter from grounded parts (pipes, sinks, batteries);
- the electrical outlet is placed at a height of 50-100 cm from the floor;
- skirting devices are mounted no closer than 30 cm from the floor.
Also, the electrical outlet must be resistant, durable, with a certain degree of moisture and dust protection.
The bathrooms use a hidden type of electrical wiring.
Installing a double outlet
A double electrical socket is used to connect two household appliances at once. They are stationary and prefabricated.
A fixed outlet is installed in the same way as a regular outlet. It is important to ensure that the cables are connected to the conductive plates, otherwise a short circuit will occur. 
The assembly is more difficult to install. For installation, you need a conductor of the same length as that connected to the main socket. This means that a network with three conductors (2 power and ground) requires three additional cables. Additional are stretched between the sockets. In the one in which there is an output of the main electrical wire, pairs of cables (main and auxiliary) are connected to the clamps. In the second socket, everything is connected as standard.
Installation of universal electrical sockets (power)
Power sockets are needed to connect powerful appliances: a washing machine, a water heater. The design differs from a conventional product: it is much thicker and designed for a load of at least 40 Amps.
Before connecting, make sure that the electrical wiring complies with safety requirements. Otherwise, do not connect the power outlet, or fire may occur. It has a separate line leading to the switchboard.
A power outlet is installed in the place where the power cable exits. Usually it is next to the stove. Fastening is carried out with dowels.
The degree of protection must be at least IP20.
Features of installation in a panel house
Panel houses have nuances: 
- for electrical wiring mounted according to the open method, it will not be necessary to drill a place for the box;
- in the case of closed wiring, strobes for conductors will be required, while the cable is laid in the corrugation.
It is imperative to use a corrugation. It protects the conductor from breaking, which can lead to a short circuit and inoperability of sockets and switches.
The box can be fixed with plaster mortar. When it dries, the process of connecting electrical fittings continues.
Electrical outlets are a must in the home. According to the type of installation, they are divided into overhead and internal. The choice depends on the type of wiring. The way they connect is the same and does not cause difficulties. Even an ordinary person can connect an outlet. It is only important to follow the installation instructions and safety requirements when working with wires.
Useful video
Installing an outlet in a ready-made socket box, it would seem, is a simple task. After all, often, drilling and installing the socket itself into the wall takes much more time.
However, even here there are nuances, misconceptions and rules that some may not know about, while others, on the contrary, argue to the last, insisting that they are right (for example, connecting a double socket with a loop).
Consider the main points and stages of this process.
Safety and tool
First of all, before the production of work, it is required to ensure safety. When replacing or installing sockets, always turn off the GENERAL introductory machine for the entire apartment or house, and not specifically on this outlet. 
This must be done in order to break not only the phase, but also zero. After disconnection, check the absence of voltage with an indicator at the place of work. 
Prepare the necessary tool:
You may also need:
Recessed socket box
The first rule concerns the socket itself. If you mount not a final, but a pass-through socket, that is, one on which the cable will not end, but go further down or sideways to other sockets or switches, always use recessed sockets. 
The standard one comes with a depth of 45mm, and you need to take 60mm. This is necessary for compact placement of wires, especially the ground wire (why it is, will be discussed below).
Do not try to cram all the conductors, which is called back to back. There will be no benefit from such savings, but only one harm.
In addition, the installation itself will be better, more convenient and will not cause insoluble difficulties. For example, when the outlet or its frame will not fit snugly against the wall. Because of this, the veins will have to be shortened. Again, disassemble everything, re-mount and dismantle.
Here is a photo of a standard socket recessed in a standard socket. 
All the space that remains inside it for wiring is about 1 cm. If you use a model with a depth of 60mm, then you will add as much as 1.5cm of installation depth. 
Feel what is called the difference.
Stripping length
When stripping the outer sheath of the cable, one should not strive to remove it to the maximum depth, i.e. up to the wall of the socket. 
Always try to leave a few millimeters. Thus, the insulation of the cores will be protected from chafing or crushing by the sharp edges of the socket.
It is very convenient to do this on a NYM round cable, with a special Jokari puller. 
Make a circular incision, and then immediately longitudinal. After that, even in cramped conditions, the shell is easily pulled out. 
With flat cables of the brand VVG and, such a trick cannot be done.
And if it is still a GOST cable, and not a TU-shny one, then even more so. 
As a rule, a knife with a heel cuts the outer insulation right up to the wall of the box. 
That is why many electricians like the NYM cable brand, and not VVG. Because of the convenience of cutting and ease of working with it.
Although each brand has its own advantages and disadvantages. 
By the way, in rare cases, you can also find a round-section VVG cable. 
How much insulation must be removed from the core itself before it is brought into the contact? Much of course depends on the brand of the outlet.
Some models even have a template that is very easy to navigate. 
But usually, the bare part of the core should not exceed 8-10mm.
The length of the wires protruding from the socket is selected based on:
- ease of installation
- socket depth
You must understand that the length that you leave will be useful in the future for convenient dismantling, pulling out and carrying out some kind of revision work. Or even replacing the outlet with a different model. 
As a rule, leave a length equal to the width of 3-4 fingers. 
Connecting sockets with a loop
The main nuance that causes heated debate among electricians is whether it is possible to connect the outlet with a cable? And in this matter, many are divided into 3 camps:
- possible in some cases
- you can always, if the design of the outlet allows
Most modern sockets always have two terminals for each wire: phase-zero-ground. Total 6 contacts. 
It is assumed that in the through socket all six ends of the wires (3 incoming + 3 outgoing) can be safely brought into the terminals, clamped and be sure that everything is done correctly.
However, there is a paragraph of the rules of the EIC, clause 1.7.144, which reads:
That is, phase and neutral working conductors are connected by a loop without problems, but for the ground conductor, according to adherents of a categorical ban, this is unacceptable. 
For him, it is necessary to make a branch. Moreover, it is desirable to perform it in a screwless way so that it does not have to be serviced (tightened) in the future. And this means - sleeve crimping, or soldering or welding. 
The easiest and most convenient way to do this is by pressing. Fold the final section of the three cores that will be connected by crimping and select the appropriate sleeve. 
For example, you have a 3 * 2.5mm2 power cable. Incoming core 2.5mm2 + branch to a socket 2.5mm2 + outgoing cable core to an adjacent socket 2.5mm2. Total theoretically - 7.5mm2.
Due to the fact that the actual cross-section of the cores does not always correspond to the declared one, and the weakening of the contacts is not permissible here, select a sleeve with a slightly smaller cross-section than the calculated one - GML-6. 
Get the vein into the sleeve and crimp the press with tongs.
Always bite off the excess length of the sleeve so that it does not take up free space in the socket. 
The resulting joint is best protected with heat shrink tubing. 
Although, of course, no one forbids applying several layers of high-quality electrical tape. 
Especially if you have a powerful one, without smooth temperature control. With such an apparatus, it is possible to inadvertently melt individual parts of the socket.
If you do it differently, using the factory socket terminals, what does it threaten? For example, you have two double sockets connected in series. One at a height of 90 cm, the other, just below it, at a level above the plinth.
Power to the bottom, comes from the top. If there is an interruption or violation of the ground contact in the very first of them, then automatically the "earth" will disappear on the rest.
Which is absolutely unacceptable. 
However, many electricians are sure that the ban on such looping only applies to sockets located in different blocks, at a distance from each other. And this rule in no way applies to double sockets located in one block, united by a single frame.
That is, in fact, such a block is a kind of connector that has a single body. So, it can be considered as a single electrical installation product. 
Most double-tees and even extensions are made in this way. 
You will not be able to disassemble a single product without disconnecting the plugs from adjacent connectors. And since you have disconnected these plugs, then breaking the grounding conductor at the very first point will not affect anything. 
But if the socket blocks are located far from each other, and do not have a common body, then it is absolutely impossible to connect them with a cable. 
Well, the third interpreters of the paragraph of the rules of the PUE 1.7.144 reasonably notice that in the PUE itself, nothing is said about the prohibition of “loops”. There is even no such concept for outlets.
It says that the "Pe" conductor must be electrically inseparable (the essence of this word is electrically). And that it is impossible to include the current-carrying elements of the device in series in the circuit of the grounding conductor. 
Neither one nor the other is in the loop. In most of these sockets for one terminal, both conductors are immediately clamped. Moreover, in an acceptable way (screw or spring). 
Now, if the socket had an earth entrance on one side, and an exit on the other (from under another independent contact), then yes - it’s impossible! Moreover, the PUE does not consider the socket contacts as open conductive parts, so clause 1.7.144 has nothing to do with it.
Even if you are forced to dismantle one of the looped sockets in this way, in addition to the protective wire, you will break the phase and neutral conductors anyway.
Which of these opinions is correct and how to mount you?
If you do what is called for yourself and “for centuries”, so as not to look into the socket for decades, then put a sleeve and make a branch, not a loop.
The same applies to objects for delivery to regulatory authorities. In order not to redo all the wiring and not to prove your own reading of the PUE, to some energy supervision inspector, forget about looping. Do not give an extra reason for remarks.
Well, if you are firmly convinced that the loop is not a violation at all, and it was not in vain that socket manufacturers initially included the possibility of such a connection in their products, then at home you are free to act like supporters of the second and third methods. 
In the end, this is your own house, and no one has the right to forbid you to do so, and not otherwise.
Caliper location
The next question is how to properly position the socket support inside the socket - with the terminals down or up. 
Some are guided by the inscriptions on the body. They should be legible and not upside down.
On the one hand, this is quite logical. But in reality, there is not much difference. This is not reflected in the regulatory documents. 
Therefore, mount it the way you feel comfortable doing it. For example, focus on the incoming cable.
Phase left or right
Further, all that remains is to connect the cores to the outlet itself and install it inside. Here you can encounter the following point, which also causes disputes and contradictions among electricians.
Where exactly in the outlet to connect the wires? If everything is clear with the earth, for it there is a place in the middle, then where to start zero and phase? 
On the left contact or on the right? Each electrician does this at his own discretion. Because, again, in the rules, there is no clear indication of where the phase should be connected to the outlet.
For example, it would be wrong for sockets in the hall, put the phase on the right terminal, and in the bedroom - on the left. If you have already connected one according to some scheme, connect all the others in the same way.
As for the colors of the connected cores, then it is already necessary to comply with the current standard. 
Use the fixing screws on the sides to pre-fasten. Next, with a compact level of an electrician, check the horizontalness of the installation. 
If everything is fine, tighten the screws completely. After that, do not forget to tighten two more internal fixing screws. 
When they are tightened, the legs extend, with which the socket clings to the inner walls of the socket box. 
In high-quality and expensive specimens, manufacturers make such paws double on each side. 
All that remains is to install the front panel and overlay frame. 
For some brands, such as Legrand, overhead frames are interchangeable.
That is, the fastening mechanism itself remains in the socket, and the plug-in element can be changed. For example, instead of the usual model with curtains, put a waterproof one (for the bathroom), or vice versa. 
Another point concerns frames. If you are installing an outlet block, then keep in mind that not all brands have a square front panel. Most often it is rectangular.
And this means that you will not be able to insert it into a decorative frame in any way. 
For example, to rotate 90 degrees, you will have to pick out a fastener with snaps from the frame, and also turn it at a right angle. 
Only after that, everything is fixed without problems.
Thus, the same frame can be placed both in a vertical block of sockets and in a horizontal one.
What could be easier than installing an outlet in the wall? In fact, this is not a difficult process, but it requires a very careful attitude. Like any other electrical appliance, the socket, if installed incorrectly, can cause a short circuit or fire. Therefore, it is important to connect it correctly.
When answering the question of how to install an outlet, it is important first of all to talk about the sequence of work. It depends on how quickly you get the job done. Before starting any action, turn off post-accounting machines (in front of the counter). Installation consists of the following steps:
- cabling,
- preparation of a niche for a socket,
- socket installation,
- connecting the inside of the socket,
- fixing a decorative overlay.
This scheme is valid if the socket is mounted during repair. In the event that it became necessary to make another outlet after finishing work was completed, then the process is supplemented by several more actions:
- make a ditch for the electrical cable,
- power it up and stretch it to the outlet.
We will tell you how to do this job with minimal effort and destruction.
In addition, you need a certain tool for work:
- hammer and chisel or perforator,
- wire cutters,
- pliers,
- insulating tape,
- small nails,
- putty knife.
Of course, it is easier to gouge with a hammer drill, but if the walls are made of limestone, it is better to use a chisel. The perforator will leave a strobe that is too deep and wide, in which it will be difficult to fix the cable, in addition, more plaster or cement will be needed.
If we are talking about walls made of silicate or red brick, then the only way to break through the strobe and not split the stone is to use the seams between the bricks.
There is no need to make strobes in wooden walls. Instead, special protective boxes are used. Usually the cable is pulled under the baseboard and led out directly under the outlet. It is impossible to completely hide the wires for fire safety.
Cabling
This work is easier to do after all the rough work. Let's take a look at this option first. First of all, even before leading the strobe, it is necessary to correctly connect the electrical cable to the meter.
The process is not complicated, standard modern meters allow you to run up to eight cables at the same time. It is advisable to connect each room separately, this will protect the insulation from melting. In the event of an overload, the machines turn off faster than a fire occurs.
Another important point is the cross section of the wire. With a standard voltage of 220 V, the current in the network constantly jumps from the standard 16 A or less to 20 or more amperes. In addition, the current strength can increase sharply at the time of network overload (if more than 3.5 kW is consumed at the same time). Therefore, use a wire with a cross section of less than 2.5 square meters. mm. Not recommended.
Also, you should decide in advance at what height to install sockets. From a decorative point of view, all visible outlets should be at the same height. More often, they think over the placement of electrical appliances in the room in advance and install sockets where they will be most invisible. It is important to remember that young children may accidentally choose an outlet as the goal of the next game. Therefore, it is recommended to install either protection or make non-permanent sockets at a height of 60-80 cm. The design of protective sockets is supplemented with a special cover, which is quite difficult to open for a child. In addition, it protects against dust and debris.
After you have decided where to install the sockets, we move on to the strobe. This is a small channel in which the cable will run. Its depth and width is equal to 1.5 diameters of the electric cable. The smoother the strobe, the less cable you will need. The only prerequisite is that the wire must come to the outlet from below, so the gate is made 5-10 cm below the level of the outlet. This rule is relevant from a practical point of view, as it makes it more convenient to work with wires.
After laying the cable, it must be fixed. To do this, you need small cloves. They hammer it into the wall and support the wire so that it does not fall out. It is impossible to immediately plaster the wall, since it is necessary to check whether all the electrical devices are working.
Installing a socket
Answering how to properly install the outlet, first of all, you need to talk about its base. Undercuts are of two types:
- for stone,
- for drywall.
Sometimes there are undercuts for wood, but this is purely a marketing ploy, since they are no different from stone ones. It is impossible to install the socket directly into the wall, as this is contrary to fire safety rules.
Drywall sockets look like a round plastic box with metal tabs on the outer sides. With the help of screws, the legs are tightened and moved apart to the sides, tightly fixing the structure in the wall. They work on the "butterfly" principle, they compress drywall not only on the sides of the slot, but also cling to the sheet itself. The diameter of the slot should be a few millimeters larger than the socket itself.
When installing a socket in drywall, it is important to remember:
- a strobe must be made in a load-bearing wall,
- the cable comes out of the strobe just opposite the socket,
- before inserting the undercut into the drywall, it is necessary to pull the cable into the undercut,
- the undercut must be inserted the first time, otherwise you will have to make a new hole.
It is more convenient to work with stone walls, as there are no clear requirements. General recommendations:
- a hole for the socket is made of arbitrary sizes, so that it is recessed into the wall by 1 cm,
- before fixing, the wires are brought into the socket,
- fixed with cement mortar,
- the solution is thrown in two passes,
- the first portion should be the consistency of sour cream to fill all the voids,
- then the inner layer is closed with a thicker solution.
In both cases, at least 10 cm of wires should come out of the socket, the remnants will easily hide in the cavity of the socket and allow you to easily replace the socket if you want to change the design or the contacts burn out.
Socket installation
To begin with, let's deal with the types of sockets, they are:
- single,
- double,
- multichannel,
- with additional elements.
This separation affects only the appearance, the process itself remains the same in all cases.
Each socket consists of:
- inner case,
- Clem,
- decorative overlay.
The inner case serves as a clamp for the terminals, and is also equipped with a special mechanism that allows you to firmly fix it in the socket. On the sides of the clamps there are two screws with a wide head, when turned clockwise, they push the special legs apart and clamp the body. More modern variants have a split inner case. First, the latch is attached, and the part with the clamps is inserted into it.
Additional fixation occurs with screws. Around the inner case there is an overlay with special holes. They line up with the holes on the socket.
Connecting the power comes down to the fact that one wire is attached to one of the terminals using a clamping bolt, and the other to the second. This is true for two-core cables. If you want to install a grounded outlet, you will need a three-wire cable. Usually the earth is either yellow, or brown, or in a voice. Remember its color when you ground the cable on the meter. On the inner casing of the socket, find a hole in the middle (on the element connecting the terminals) and connect the ground to it.
In order to install a double socket, you must follow the same steps. Composite receptacles use long terminals to connect all the inlets, so there is no need to connect each connector separately. Decorative overlays can be on 3 or more outlets. In this case, two or more sockets are installed. Between themselves, the terminals are connected in parallel, from the supply to the extreme.
Therefore, the rest of the wiring is arranged to the same principle. The main cable goes only to the first point. Further, separate pieces of cable are laid in the strobes, which are connected directly in the socket (the supply cable and the continuation are twisted and fixed with a clamping bolt).
After all the work on fixing and connecting the power supply is completed, the decorative facade is put on. There are many varieties of such pads on sale, one of which consists of a socket and a switch. Install a socket with a switch in the same way as a multi-part one. If the switch must turn on the lighting, then the power cable is first connected to the outlet, and the switch is powered from it. The socket is constantly energized, so the switch will be continuously supplied with current. If the switch must turn on the outlet itself, then the connection is made in reverse, the power cable to the switch, we power the outlet from it. With this circuit, the switch will serve as a breaker.
Installing an outlet after finishing work
As a rule, a similar question arises if the outlet terminals are melted. This is due to poor contact between the plug and the metal plates. The plates become loose from time to time, or if the quality of the inner case does not meet the standards. The easiest way to protect yourself from this problem is to ask how many inclusions the socket or switch is designed for. This is a normal question, as manufacturers carry out appropriate tests. The very work of replacing the outlet is performed as follows:
- turn off the electricity (preferably at the accounting machine),
- remove cover,
- unscrew the inner case,
- disconnect the wires
- plug in a new outlet.
In the event that an old socket without a socket needs to be replaced, you will first have to install it and only then proceed to the installation of the socket.
The most unpleasant situation is when a quality repair is made, but it becomes necessary to add several outlets. But even here it is possible to get by with “little blood”.
- a new cable is powered from the meter,
- the strobe is made down to the floor,
- then the cable is brought under the plinth,
- from the plinth, rises clearly perpendicular to the location of the outlet.
If an outlet is needed in a room where the walls are made of tiles, then there is a solution to this issue. The height of the socket in this case is determined by the maximum length of the perforator drill.
- the cable is routed under the plinth,
- in the place where the outlet will be located, one or more tiles are removed (so that the puncher fits in) and a channel is drilled to the floor,
- a hole is drilled under the plinth connecting the channel,
- the cable is pulled to the outlet.
If it was possible to remove the tile without damage, a hole for the socket is drilled in it, then we assemble it according to the standard scheme.
In order for the tile not to crack, you will need a chisel and a mallet. It is necessary to carefully knock out the grout, then lightly tap the tile, gradually deepening the chisel under its edges, 20-30 minutes of work, and you will remove the whole tile.
A modern apartment is designed in such a way that each room is distinguished by its functionality. Based on this, a different number of electrical appliances are used in each room. Therefore, when a plan or layout of electrical points is drawn up, many nuances must be taken into account. In this article, we will tell the readers of the site how to arrange the sockets in the apartment correctly and, no less importantly, safely.
What is important to know?
In addition to the nuances and functionality of the premises, you should take into account the norms and rules of installation. For example, according to the European standard, the distance from the socket to the door should exceed 10 cm and the height should not exceed 90 cm from the floor.
You can consider how to properly place sockets with your own hands using a simple example. The diagram below shows a typical two-room apartment:
- Kitchen
- Living room
- Bedroom
- Combined bathroom
The installation and location of electrical accessories is guided by such regulatory documents as SNiP, PUE, and GOST. You can find out more from our article.
Placement rules
Kitchen
The kitchen has a lot of household appliances, both large and small. Therefore, it is necessary to start designing devices with the location of all household and electronic appliances in the room. Most of the appliances are in the kitchen. There are several rules on how to arrange sockets on a kitchen apron:
- For built-in appliances, it is better to place sockets behind the walls of adjacent cabinets. It is forbidden to place the device directly behind electrical appliances.
- For the hood, such an element is installed at a distance of 60 cm from the top of the kitchen cabinet.
- The placement of sockets above the countertop is necessary for connecting small household appliances. This convenient position allows you to connect a blender or electric kettle. As a rule, they are installed at a height of up to 30 cm from the working surface.
In this case, do not forget about the placement of sockets for the refrigerator, oven and hob. The use of a double socket to connect the hob and oven is not allowed, as she just can't take the load. You can place one or two elements near the dining table.
The video below clearly demonstrates the correct location of electrical points in the kitchen:
Living room
In the hall or in the living room, there are four options for arranging sockets. These zones include:
The master tells about the convenient placement of sockets behind a wall-mounted TV in the video lesson:
Bedroom
You can arrange sockets in the bedroom in several zones, into which any bedroom is conditionally divided. First of all, they are installed by the bed and by the bedside tables. This arrangement is explained by the fact that there should always be a lamp or sconce near the bed, under which you can read a book or newspaper at night. The diagram indicates the approximate layout of the elements and at what distance they should be from the furniture.
If the bedroom has a desk, then you will need two outlets: one for the computer and the other for a table lamp. It is better to place them in the region of 20 cm from the surface of the table. And if it is planned in the room, then it is necessary to place 3-4 more connectors at a height of 130 cm from the floor. So that the wires do not interfere, it is better to hide them with a TV. Read about it in our article.
Don't forget about the doorway. The location of outlet points at the doors is also necessary. They are needed to connect a vacuum cleaner or a heating radiator.
How to properly position the sockets in the bedroom is described in the video:
Bathroom
Having an outlet in the bathroom is not only comfort and convenience, but also an absolute necessity. According to the Electrical Installation Rules, sockets must be located at a distance of 60 cm from the bath or shower. Since this room is the wettest, it is necessary to place the devices in a minimum number here.
In the combined bathroom, you can place sockets for a hair dryer, a razor or a curling iron. As a rule, they are installed near the sink, next to the mirror. Unfortunately, and near the water. Therefore, the usual design will not work here, it is necessary to install a moisture-resistant case, as in the photo below:
It comes with a cover that can cover the contacts. wiring device must be at least ip44. It should also be borne in mind that it is forbidden to use sockets with a connection diagram without a residual current device ().
A modern solution is a water leakage protection system. It will keep your home and neighbors' homes from flooding during an emergency, or if you forgot to turn off the water, or the dishwasher or washing machine failed and water ran out of it. So, at the repair stage, to protect against leaks, you need to lay a separate cable into the bathroom, from the shield. The connection of the control module to the AC mains must be carried out using a residual current device (RCD) or a differential machine with a trip current of not more than 30 mA. A popular water leak protection system is Neptun. You can read more about it in our review.
The correct placement of electrical outlets in the bathroom is described in this video example:
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Any apartment includes a room called a hallway. It is in it that the person enters in the first place. And it also needs to be able to properly place wiring devices. As a rule, two outlets for such a room is enough. After all, in the hallway, they mainly use the dryer for shoes or perform or vacuum cleaner.
The diagram indicates how to arrange sockets and what distance from windows and corners should be:
Each apartment is individual. Therefore, for each room, a separate plan should be developed - the layout of all electrical installation mechanisms. Indeed, in each house the number of household appliances is completely different, but during the project it is better to install electrical outlets with a margin so that over time you do not redo everything again or use extension cords.
That's all we wanted to tell you about how to arrange outlets in the apartment. We hope our advice helped you decide on the most convenient and correct location for electrical outlets in the rooms!
You probably don't know:
It doesn't matter if you are changing the old socket during the repair or installing a new one after moving into the apartment. You can't do without the following things:
- socket - with or without grounding, depending on the wiring;
- mounting box (socket) compatible with the new outlet and suitable for installation to the type of wall;
- voltage indicator (tester) - to determine the phase;
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers - for mounting;
- knife - for stripping wires;
- wire cutters - for trimming;
- alabaster or gypsum - for fixing the socket in a solid wall.
2. Remove the cover of the old outlet
moikolodets.ru If you do not change the outlet, but install a new one, proceed to the next section.
Using a screwdriver with an insulated handle, unscrew the fixing screw located in the center and remove the cover.
Do not forget that the socket contacts are energized! Do not touch them with a screwdriver and proceed with extreme caution.
3. Check the wires
Inspect the socket from the inside to understand if it is connected with two or three wires. In houses of old construction, there are most often two of them - phase and zero. In addition to the latter, grounding is added.
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By color or using an indicator screwdriver, determine which of the wires is phase and which is zero. To do this, take the screwdriver by the handle so that the thumb rests on the metal circle in its upper part. Then alternately touch the socket contacts with the tip of the screwdriver. The one on which the indicator lights up will be the phase, the second will be zero.
The appearance of typical wires for sockets: triple - with grounding, double - without / remotvet.ru When there are three wires, they must be connected strictly in accordance with the markings. Purpose is easy to identify by color:
- earth (PE or Protective Earth) - yellow-green or yellow;
- zero (N or Null) - blue;
- phase (L or Lead) - brown, red or white.
4. Turn off the electricity
De-energize the room using a breaker in the electrical panel on the landing or in the apartment. To do this, the machine handles need to be moved down - the indicators on them will change from red to green or from one to zero. Circuit breakers are not always labeled, so be sure to check that the power is actually off.
The flags are cocked and the red indicator is visible - the machine is in the on state / ac220.ru If the apartment has a switchboard with several machines, turn off only those that protect the sockets. So you can work under lighting and observe safety measures.
5. Dismantle the old outlet
electry.ru If you do not change the outlet, but install a new one, proceed to the next step.
Check again. Alternately touch the socket contacts with an indicator screwdriver, touching the metal part on the handle with your thumb - the control lamp should not light up.
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Loosen the terminal clamps with a screwdriver and pull out the conductors. Unscrew the fixing spacer screws and remove the socket from the junction box.
6. Install the junction box
5domov.ru Mounting a new outlet in an old socket will not work. Soviet installation boxes have a larger diameter, and modern sockets will simply fall out of them, pulling out of the wall along with the plug.
Remove the old box or immediately clean the seat in the wall from plaster and dust. Then try on the socket and make sure that it fits freely without protruding beyond the level of the wall. Expand the hole if necessary.
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If the wall is drywall, just thread the wire through the socket. Secure the box by tightening the clamp screws.
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For solid walls, use alabaster or gypsum mixed with water to a thick slurry. Wet the wall with water and apply the mixture into the hole. Then thread the wire through the socket and insert the box, aligning it with the wall. Cover gaps around. Wait a few minutes for the alabaster or plaster to harden.
7. Strip the wires
joinfo.ua If the cable is too long, cut it with wire cutters so that it protrudes from the wall by about 5-7 cm. Carefully remove the outer sheath and strip 5-10 mm of insulation from each conductor.
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8. Plug in an outlet
rozetkaonline.ru If the socket is not grounded, the wires can be connected in any order. Most likely, there will be no designations on it, but according to the rules, the phase should be on the right, and zero on the left.
In a socket with grounding, the wires are also allowed to be interchanged, but it is advisable to place the phase to the L contact, and the neutral conductor to the N contact.
The ground must always be connected to the terminal marked ⏚ or PE! If there is no marking, then to the central contact leading to the characteristic antennae inside the socket.
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Take a new outlet and remove from it. Loosen the clamping screws of the contacts, then insert the conductors one by one into them in accordance with the marking and carefully tighten. Make sure that it is the stripped part of the wire that gets into the clamp, and not the insulation.
9. Fix the mechanism
sibelektrika.ru Once again check the correct connection and tighten the contacts with a screwdriver. Gently bend the strands of the conductors so that they fold like an accordion, and insert the mechanism into the mounting box.
Align it horizontally so that the outlet is not skewed. Tighten the side screws, which will open the spacers and fix the mechanism. If there are additional screws on the socket housing for a more secure fixation, wrap them too.
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10. Install the cover
alkiv.ua Place the top cover of the socket and fix it with the screw. If the design provides for a decorative panel, install it first. Apply voltage by turning on the switch in the switchboard on the site or in the apartment. Be careful not to mix up circuit breakers. the light did not go out and the machines did not knock out, which means you did everything right. But before plugging in any devices, it is better to check it again.
To do this, take an indicator screwdriver and touch all the contacts one by one. The control lamp should light up only on the right. On the left contact and on the grounding antennae, the indicator light should not glow.