It may seem that joining a balcony to a room is not so difficult. However, people often face a situation where, after glazing the parapet and removing the old door block, the balcony becomes a source of colossal heat loss. Moreover, glaring mistakes are made not only by home craftsmen who decided to cope on their own, but also by hired professional builders. Let's figure out what misconceptions prevent you from doing everything right, what pitfalls exist, and how to get around them.
Myth # 1: A balcony is practical and convenient
If we consider the finished projects of country cottages, then almost each of them has a balcony. As practice shows, in the private sector this element of the building is extremely rarely used, especially when it is located on the front side of the facade. People make it, and then they safely abandon it. Until a certain moment ... until the first troubles begin. Near the slab, the wall freezes and gets wet, materials on the street gradually collapse (the surface of the site crumbles, the fences rust), the wooden door crumbles and begins to see through.
Important! The stationary balcony slab is tied to the outer wall of the building, it goes directly into the room at floor level and is a huge bridge of cold. In a private house, it makes sense to build a balcony made of wood, it is advisable to use hinged and attached structures with supporting columns.
Roughly the same horrors are observed in the apartment of a high-rise building. But if in the private sector the owner can, by a willful decision, completely abandon the construction of a balcony, then in a high-rise building people have nowhere to go, they have to do something. It turns out that the balcony is one of the most problematic places, in the apartment it’s for sure. It turns out that the homeowner has additional structures “on the balance sheet”, moreover external ones, which should be protected from wind, snow, rain, and the scorching rays of the sun. Every season something needs to be tinted, greased, adjusted, etc.
So, the structures of an open balcony need regular careful maintenance, but some of the problems can be eliminated by glazing and insulation. The implementation of an insulated balcony is akin to a miniature construction site, since it will be necessary to erect / assemble walls, create a roof (on the uppermost floor), take care of heating and electricity.
Myth # 2: Any translucent structure can be used for glazing
In fact, there are two types of glazing: warm and cold. Frameless and most sliding structures are cold glazing - if the balcony remains a space isolated from the rooms. The warm option is used when the area is attached to the room. For such purposes, only the most technologically advanced products are suitable, which are distinguished by the greatest resistance to heat transfer, because the windows will be the main enclosing structures, and their area is quite large.
Most aluminum systems here cannot provide normal thermal insulation; it is better to give preference, for example, to wooden structures (naturally, modern ones). However, PVC windows show the best energy saving characteristics on the balcony. But these should be models with a multi-chamber (5-6 chambers, total frame width from 80 mm) profile, which allows filling with two-chamber bags and corresponding sandwiches (from 32 mm). Obviously, double-glazed windows must be used with maximum thermal insulation capacity - that is, with three glasses, in which argon and special spraying are used.
Important! Swing systems with several sealing circuits have proven themselves best for insulation. Sliding models (as well as frameless solutions) usually do not provide sufficient thermal insulation and tightness, although there are so-called tilt-and-slide and tilt-slide systems, which have quite a decent level of energy efficiency.
As for the configuration and equipment of the glazing, it is worth mentioning the mandatory use of some standard components, which in all characteristics correspond to the tasks set for the insulation. These include:
- corner connecting profiles (has chambers and allows you not to construct a supporting frame);
- straight H-shaped connecting profiles (allows filling a long opening with several frames, has chambers and elastic seals);
- support elements (makes it possible to insulate the floor);
- expanders (allows you to insulate the ceiling and blank walls).
To hang the resistance to heat transfer, the cavities of these components can be filled with mineral wool or polyurethane foam.
It should be understood that even the highest quality glazing has relatively low thermal insulation properties. Therefore, it is better to assemble a massive or frame parapet around the perimeter of the slab and insulate it, and put the windows from a solid fence to the ceiling. If the PVC balcony structure is still chosen "from floor to ceiling", then it is not necessary to fill all the frames with double-glazed windows, it will be more efficient to install a warmer sandwich (PVC + EPS + PVC) in some openings - for example, on the end walls of the balcony, the lower part frames.
Myth number 3: Any modern insulation with a layer of 3-5 centimeters is enough
Insufficient thickness of the thermal insulation layer is the most common mistake. It may seem that, since the area of \u200b\u200bthe balcony is relatively small, it would not be logical to "eat" it with thick enclosing elements. But, if you make simple calculations (see the article on calculating the thickness of thermal insulation), it becomes clear that the minimum layer of additional insulation will be 100-120 mm, and sometimes all 150-180. It is clear that foamed polyethylene canvases so much loved by domestic craftsmen will not cope with the tasks set. Here, definitely, you need to apply:
- basalt wool;
- styrofoam;
- or extruded polystyrene foam.
Moreover, of all the options for density / thermal conductivity, it is worth giving preference to the most effective (thermal conductivity coefficient from 0.040 W / (m * K) and below), which will allow you to perform high-quality insulation and still help save usable space.
Myth number 4: The ceiling and floor need not be insulated
Sometimes we hear that the owner of the real estate does not want to spend money on thermal insulation of some elements of the balcony / loggia, since "the neighbors' balconies above and below are also glazed." But after all, we cannot know what level of thermal insulation is implemented there, maybe there is no insulation at all in the structures, and cold glazing was used. Even if it turns out that the neighbors have warmed themselves normally, then there is no guarantee that over time these or other residents will not change their minds and will not alter something.
Also, do not forget that, as we have already noted, this is the most powerful cold bridge: a concrete balcony slab with three ends faces the street. Therefore, in winter it freezes easily, and the more intensively it happens if it is reliably fenced off from the heating system by a layer of heat insulator from the neighbors. That is, it does not warm up and cools down even faster, this cold from the balcony will definitely go to your apartment.
Important! Due to the freezing of a massive element from the end, the blank walls of the loggias are also subject to full insulation, even isolated from the side of the adjacent apartment.
Myth number 5: First of all, the frames are assembled, and then the insulation is laid
Frame cladding is indeed the best option for finishing a balcony, which undergoes additional insulation, because the wet method of bonded thermal insulation, as on the facade, seems to many to be too impractical inside the room - for example, overly prone to punching. However, when assembling the frames, the craftsmen make the same mistake - first they install the subsystem right next to the supporting base, and then foam polystyrene or stone wool is attached between the racks. As a result, the heat-insulating layer breaks, and cold stripes are obtained, which are clearly visible when examining the frame with a thermal imager. It turns out especially badly if metal profiles are used for the construction of the frame instead of wooden bars. Wood is preferable here, such insulation, of course, is better than nothing, but freezing is possible.
Important! Insulation, be it expanded polystyrene or cotton wool, must be wound behind the frame elements and the sheets must be joined tightly to each other and to the supporting elements. If polystyrene and EPS, such as penoplex, are used as an insulator, it is recommended to foam the joints and gaps. When using direct suspensions, they must be drilled in advance and fixed on the base through thermal insulating gaskets, and only then the heaters can be pierced on them (most likely, elongated U-shaped brackets will be needed).
Myth 6: Moisture on the balcony is not particularly scary
Quite the opposite is true. There can be a lot of unpleasant options when water during the operation of the insulated balcony / loggia can get where it is not needed. The most dangerous is slanting rain. The glazed balcony is a prefabricated structure with a large number of elements and interfaces of various materials. Water through poor-quality junctions can get into the insulating layer, which then ceases to perform an insulating function. Most often, leaks are observed in the area of \u200b\u200b\\ u200b \\ u200bthe junction of the frames with the upper and lower plates, if the ebb / sills are not installed correctly.
Important! It is mandatory and in a special way to use metal or plastic canopies. The upper one should be fixed to the plate, and the lower one to the frame. Mounting gaps must be filled with high quality foam. By the way, we must not forget about the area of \u200b\u200bjoining the frames and the outer wall of the house, very often here they "forget" to use strips that protect the foam from both water and ultraviolet radiation.
If you need to make a roof, then you cannot do without a corner that will cover the joint between the roofing material and the wall. It is best to use a Z-shaped galvanized profile with a polymer coating, which cuts into the wall with one shelf. Also, if the humidity in the rooms sometimes rises too much, then it is recommended to cover the insulation from the inside with vapor barrier films with gluing the cloths with tape.
Myth # 7: The radiator from under the window can be easily transferred to the balcony parapet
For a number of reasons, this is not the smartest decision. If, after removing the balcony door block, the part of the wall on which the battery hung is dismantled, then it is better to install the heater on the side wall of the balcony. Even if you are engaged in transferring to the front wall, then the supply and return lines will have to be mounted in an open way. It is dangerous to lay the pipeline on the floor, because almost any winter day, the pipes located in the thickness of the insulation can be thawed and damaged by destruction, if the heating is stopped for at least a day.
Perhaps the most practical and safe way to heat a glazed balcony will be electric underfloor heating. For example, realized with self-regulating cables, rods or infrared foil, which can be laid directly under the floor finish.
Do you have to forget about the balcony in winter? It's time for a change - make a warm cozy corner out of a warehouse of unnecessary things, or even! Insulating a cold balcony both in a new building and in a private house is not as difficult as it seems: it is enough to know what materials can be used and in what sequence to carry out insulation work.
To begin with, it should be said that there are two ways to insulate a balcony - from the inside and outside. Outside insulation, of course, is more convenient - precious centimeters of area are not "eaten away", and the facing of the balcony facade becomes more pleasant. But this is a laborious process that requires the involvement of a construction crew and industrial climbers. Therefore, in the article we will focus on how to properly insulate a balcony in an apartment from the inside - this can be done independently.
For insulation inside the balcony, first of all, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. They include several important stages:
- Where to start insulating a loggia or balcony? Free up space of unnecessary things. It is best if the balcony is completely empty: it is much easier to work this way. Also, get rid of old finishes in advance.
- Fill up all the cracks - a lot of heat goes out through them. For small cracks, a weather-resistant sealant is suitable, fill larger ones with polyurethane foam - it will not only fill the voids, but also serve as an additional heat insulator.
- To make it easier for you to carry out the insulation work, it is important to smooth out cracks and irregularities on the walls and ceiling with cement mortar.
- If you plan to place light bulbs or lighting fixtures on the balcony, it is worth taking care of the wiring in advance. To hide unpresentable cables, place them in plastic boxes.
- Before starting work, cover the opening between the balcony and the adjoining room with a film so that construction dust and other contaminants do not get into the apartment.
Is it possible to insulate a balcony in winter? Yes, you can. Only when carrying out work in winter is it necessary to choose frost-resistant materials, in particular polyurethane foam.
How to insulate a balcony: what materials are better to choose
To understand how to insulate a loggia or balcony, let's first figure out what properties the materials should have:
- high strength;
- fire safety;
- water resistance;
- environmental friendliness;
- relatively low cost;
- ease of installation (if we want to do all the work with our own hands).
Most often, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, polystyrene, etc. are used for insulation. Several of these materials are sometimes combined. We have reflected the pros and cons of each heat insulator in the table:
| Insulation | Benefits | disadvantages |
| Expanded clay\u003e | Low cost; Durability; Fire safety; Not afraid of mold and mildew; Low weight; Easily takes any shape |
High moisture permeability; Suitable only for floor insulation; Can be difficult to install |
| Mineral wool | Good sound and heat insulation; Environmental friendliness; Fire safety; Easily takes any shape |
Deterioration of properties upon ingress of water; The thickness of the insulation "steals" the usable area |
| Styrofoam | Low cost; Ease of installation; Low weight; Not afraid of mold and mildew |
Fragility; Flammability |
| Extruded polystyrene foam in slabs | High strength; Ease of installation; Moisture resistance; Durability |
Relatively high cost |
| Polyurethane foam (liquid insulation) | High strength; Moisture resistance; Durability; Fills cavities of any shape |
Relatively high cost; Mandatory availability of special equipment |
| Penofol (foamed polyethylene with a layer of metal foil) | Moisture resistance; Durability; Small thickness; Good heat and waterproofing |
It is rarely used as an independent heat insulator, usually only in combination with other materials |
What is the best insulation for the balcony? The answer to this question depends on your preferences and financial capabilities. More details about the characteristics of heaters, as well as about in general, can be found in our blog.
First, a waterproofing layer of polyethylene or foam foam must be laid on the floor so that dampness does not bother us. Masters advise to lay penofol with the reflective side up. Along the way, we can fix the waterproofer on the walls. It is better to glue the joints between the sheets of the waterproofer with foil tape.
Another good waterproofing agent is bitumen-based mastic. It dries for about a day, the surfaces treated with it cannot be touched.
Then we install logs - wooden beams or metal beams that serve as the basis for floors, platforms and other surfaces. For floor insulation, wooden logs are suitable. You should choose logs made of quality materials: the moisture content in the wood should not exceed 12%. Also, in order to prevent fungus and rotting, the bars are treated with an antiseptic or primer.
The distance between the lags should be equal to the width of the insulation, and the builders recommend making the height of the beams 10-15 centimeters - this is necessary to reliably protect the floor from frost. Use polyurethane foam to seal the holes between the joists and the wall, as well as fix the beams in the desired position. Don't worry about being neat: you can cut off excess foam with a knife after it dries.
Next, a heat-insulating layer is laid, plate or fibrous. Make sure that there are no gaps between the heat insulator and the lags: "cold bridges" will nullify all your efforts to insulate. If you are laying the heat insulator in several layers, be sure to shift each new layer so that the seams between the insulation sheets are not in the same place.
To protect the floor from condensation, a vapor barrier is required.
Using self-tapping screws, attach a "rough" floor made of boards, plywood, fiberboard or chipboard to the logs. This is the last step before finishing your floor, such as laminate, linoleum or carpeting.
There are two technologies for insulating the ceiling - with or without a frame. Before starting work, it is recommended to apply an antiseptic layer to the ceiling: this way you protect the surface from the appearance of mold.
If you decide to make a crate, you will need wooden blocks and dowels. We put insulation in the crate - mineral wool or foam is suitable as an insulating layer. Minvata are fixed with polyurethane foam, and the foam is held without additional fastening. Then the ceiling is finished: plastic panels, drywall, lining - any materials will do, it all depends on your idea.
Without a frame, ceiling insulation works are carried out as follows: the ceiling surface must be cleaned of dust and dirt, and also treated with a strengthening soil - this will help fix the insulation more reliably. Then the glue is applied to the foam sheets (just apply the glue around the perimeter and a little in the middle). We glue the sheets to the ceiling, for reliability they are attached with dowel-mushrooms. We seal the joints with polyurethane foam.
The glue you will be using must in no case contain toluene.
We already have the waterproofing ready, so we can immediately install the lathing from wooden bars. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the heat insulator, and the height of the bars should be equal to the width of the insulation. Styrofoam plates, polystyrene foam or high-quality mineral wool are suitable for walls. The joints between the insulation, as always, are filled with foam. A vapor barrier film must be fixed on top of the insulation.
As a rule, the wall between the balcony and the room is insulated in one layer, and the remaining walls - in two layers, or the thickest heat insulator is used.
But what about the windows?
Think about it: is it worth insulating a balcony with cold glazing? If you want a really warm corner, you shouldn't save on windows. You can insulate the ceiling, floor and walls at the highest level, but cold air will still seep through old or low-quality double-glazed windows.
If your balcony is not glazed, first of all pay attention to the parapet - a low wall that protects the balcony from the street. It must be strong enough to support the window structure.
Which windows should you choose? If you plan to make a balcony a living room, double-chamber plastic windows with hinged sashes are suitable. They are more airtight than sliding window systems; they also have better heat and sound insulating properties. The only drawback is that since the balcony area is mostly small, the arrangement of furniture may interfere with opening the windows.
In general, you can install plastic windows with your own hands. But it is better not to take risks if you have no experience: after all, even some companies specializing in the installation of windows make annoying mistakes in their work. In order not to face unfortunate installers, frosting of windows and, be sure to study the reviews of people who collaborated with this or that company.
If you still can't install new windows, it is quite possible to find another way out. on the balcony easily with the help of scrap materials.
Even a perfectly insulated balcony can get a little chilly in winter. To make you comfortable on the balcony on the coldest days, an electric heater would be an ideal option. Usually it is placed against the wall separating the balcony and the apartment. Do not put a heater near the windows, otherwise the glass will start to fog up.
Central heating is not allowed on the balcony: this is prohibited by building codes.
An electric underfloor heating or water floor is also a good solution for heating. Modern technology of warm floors will delight you as long as the balcony itself will exist. Many systems are equipped with a thermostat so that you can set a comfortable temperature.
After you have completed all the necessary insulation work, you should take care of. If you have closed all the cracks on the balcony, there will simply be nowhere for fresh air to come from. Therefore, regularly
Today's balcony in many apartments turns into a full-fledged room, a functional space. This is especially true for small apartments, whose tenants value every centimeter. If the balcony is insulated, it becomes an office, a closet, a resting place, a mini greenhouse, a dining room or an extra bed. There are many options for using it. The main thing is to do quality work on its insulation. Only in this case it will be warm and comfortable on the balcony.
Features and Benefits
In the warm season, the whole family can rest on the balcony, but when autumn comes, this room becomes useless. If you insulate it, the situation will change. The plus is that all the planned work is easy to do on your own. Additionally, a warm room is a space in which it is easy to create a small work area or sitting area. In addition, the presence of a warm balcony will automatically make the apartment cozier and warmer. You can attach a living room or kitchen to it, depending on its location. This will create extra space.
Before doing insulation or glazing, you need to get expert advice. He will definitely tell you what kind of load a warm balcony can withstand, whether it is worth strengthening it. If the base is a strong concrete slab, the question of reinforcement does not arise. But the metal parapet must be reinforced with foam blocks or lightweight bricks made of ceramic material. The same should be done in the case of a fragile fastening of a reinforced concrete base.
Double-glazed windows in wooden frames can be used for insulation. They are environmentally friendly, allow windows to "breathe", but are expensive. Aluminum windows insulated with polyamide inlays increase the thermal insulation of the room. The most optimal would be the equipment of PVC windows with double glazing, which reliably retain heat.
Such windows are cheaper than wooden ones, but at the same time their thermal insulation is not inferior to aluminum ones.
What materials are better to choose
For finishing balconies or loggias today there are many varieties of finishing materials, with the help of which they give even the smallest room an original and attractive look. The main thing is to make the right choice of material for finishing. For insulation, experts recommend using cork, plastic panels, lining with a wooden or plastic base, drywall, plaster, MDF panels, decorative stone, aluminum profile, penoplex, expanded polystyrene, penofol.
Mineral wool, foam trim is an excellent solution for self-warming a room.
In the case of a non-insulated balcony, it is better to give preference to artificial stone, plastic frost-resistant lining, cork panels or tiles. The following materials are most often used for finishing:
Drywall
- This material is distinguished by the fact that it is based on no toxic substances, it is easy to process and is combined with other finishing materials in design. Drywall can be plastered, painted, wallpapered, sheathed with panels and clapboard. With the help of such a versatile material, it is enough to simply turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room.
PVC panels
- A practical solution, but it is better not to use this material if the constant temperature on the balcony is below five degrees. This problem can be solved with the help of frost-resistant panels, developed using new technologies. This material is not afraid of moisture, but it is able to quickly lose color from direct sunlight. This point should be taken into account if the room is located on the south side. Advantages: low cost, quick and easy installation with glue.
Cork panels
- They create coziness that cannot be organized using other finishing materials. Cork panels are pressed bark of cork oak. Cork panels are easy to install and are suitable for any type of balcony regardless of the room temperature. The cork panel does not absorb foreign odors, including the smell of tobacco. Lack of material - high price. For insulation, inexpensive penoplex is also used, mineral wool is perfect.
How to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step instructions
A balcony in a city apartment is a special space. This piece of the house, brought out under the open sky, can become an office, a greenhouse or a resting corner, you just have to glaze and isolate it.
Do-it-yourself balcony insulation will save a lot of money. Sheathing in a panel house, in "Khrushchev" is done taking into account the characteristics of the apartment and building.
- Step 1... To begin with, the old frames are dismantled, the surface is prepared and things are taken out. Insulation from the inside is an important stage in the entire process.
- Step 2... At the second stage, it is necessary to glaze the balcony. The best option would be PVC plastic windows. Many people prefer to keep the old wooden frames. However, remember that even if the wooden structures are in good condition, they will not be able to organize the same heat savings. There are cracks in the tree, so it makes no sense to engage in insulation in this situation.
- Step 3... After the plastic windows are installed, you can start to warm the floor. Be prepared for the floor to get higher. Consider this if the ceiling is low.
- Step 4... Wall cladding is carried out after the installation of windows and floor insulation. The walls on the balcony are side walls, except for the main one. At the final stage of insulation, finishing works are carried out. The choice of materials depends on the budget. In the process of finishing, window slopes are installed overlooking the balcony.
Required tools and materials
- In order to insulate a balcony or loggia, you will need the following tools: a hacksaw for metal or a clerical knife; roulette; level; pencil, marker or any other writing instrument; glue application tool - brush, spatula, and so on; other instruments. From the materials you need glue and the insulation itself. In addition, you will need a vapor barrier film and a windproof membrane.
A frame device is also required. In this case, you will need wooden beams, as well as nails to secure them. You may also need special fasteners - nails with very wide heads. They are used when polystyrene is not attached with glue.
Insulation inside
- High-quality thermal insulation combined with double glazing transforms the balcony into a living space. It is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor and ceiling. Insulation materials must be durable, lightweight, safe for humans. Due to precipitation and condensation, the walls of the balcony can become damp and moldy, which means that a hydro and vapor barrier is needed.
Polystyrene foam meets these requirements as much as possible: traditional foam and Penoplex thermal insulation boards. The first is very lightweight, compressive strength, and waterproof. Penoplex is insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam. Its strength and durability surpasses conventional foam, and its shape makes it easy to grip and provides perfect insulation. Balcony cladding with slabs can be performed both inside and outside.
Insulation of a closed balcony begins with surface preparation. It is necessary to carefully cover the gaps and joints between the floor, walls and parapet with polyurethane foam without toluene in the composition. Metal structures must be cleaned of rust, covered with oil paint and treated with a building antiseptic.
Before laying the insulation, they put windows and doors. Window sills and slopes are mounted at the last stage of work. The balcony glazing depends on the parapet. If this is just a metal crate, it needs to be built up with ceramic (lightweight) bricks or foam blocks. The thickness should not exceed ten centimeters. To protect the foam blocks, at the finishing stage, they are covered with corrugated board.
Floor
Window structures can be installed on a reinforced concrete parapet at once using various assembly and sealing compounds. Reinforced-plastic windows have excellent characteristics, with skillful installation, they reliably protect the balcony and look aesthetically pleasing. When choosing a model, it is worth stopping at swing frames with double glazing.
Floor
- In order to insulate the floor, you can resort to two different directions at once: making it warm or constantly heating it. We are talking about installing a floor heating system, for example, an electric one. Installation of a water system on a balcony is very inconvenient and almost impossible, but installation of an electrical or film system is easy to carry out.
photos
It all starts with preparation. A waterproofing film is laid on the floor under the tiles, which protects the floor from moisture outside. Further the crate is arranged. Instead of a lag, a bar is used, five centimeters thick. If you do not want to raise the floor too much in relation to the old coating, it is better to use a beam of low height. A square bar of 50 × 50 mm is perfect. The beams are laid every 40-60 cm.
To prevent moisture from entering the insulation from the inside, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is laid on top of the beams and attached to them with a construction stapler. For internal fastening, a fastening step of 50 cm is sufficient so as not to create unnecessary holes in the film. Polystyrene must be protected from moisture on all sides. Therefore, it is better to lay the film with an overlap on the walls. All gaps between the beams and the walls should be sealed with the same insulation material or polyurethane foam.
Walls
- Many do not insulate the walls, believing that from the side of the house the cold does not come to the balcony. In many ways it is, but the work must be done. The walls themselves are not sources of cold, but the joints between them and the side walls of the balcony can be. For this reason, the whole work can only consist in installing foam foam, which is vapor-tight and thin. It will protect the walls from icing and the penetration of condensate into the balcony.
- Ceiling. If we are talking about a private house, then it is best to make a special roof structure. It is recommended to make a pitched roof, the slope of which is directed away from the house. The roof is made of rafters and lathing. A waterproofing film is attached on top of it. Roofing material is attached to the film, and the waterproofing is on top of the double-sided vapor barrier film, with the absorbent side inward. From the bottom, the rafters are hemmed with a vapor-permeable windproof membrane.
The floor slab, that is, the horizontal part, must have several layers at once: insulation; vapor barrier layer; load-bearing beams with interior decoration. The device begins with the installation of the frame, namely the rafter system. Next, a vapor barrier double-sided membrane is attached to it in this way. Then they arrange the crate and lay the waterproofing layer. You can use a classic roofing material or special PVC films.
- Insulation outside. In order to insulate the balcony from the outside on your own, skills are required. It is not easy to do quality work on your own, taking into account the characteristics of the building. Finishing outside means saving up to thirty percent on heating. Remember that outdoor work is fraught with some difficulties: if the balcony is located above the second floor, then industrial climbers will have to be involved in the work.
Before starting the insulation, obtain the consent of the officials from the architecture department. The exterior of the balcony can spoil the overall picture, but if you finish in the same style as the entire building, you can get permission. External insulation has a number of advantages:
- the reinforced concrete slab remains warm, humid air from the room freely passes through it and is released into the atmosphere;
- saving useful space;
- you can install a layer of thermal insulation of any thickness, this will not affect the inner space of the balcony.
The materials can be used the same as for interior work. Preference is given to sprayed thermal insulation as the lightest and most efficient. Experts recommend using foam or expanded polystyrene. Mineral wool is sensitive to moisture ingress, so its installation requires special care and accuracy.
An independent procedure for insulating a balcony is difficult. All stages must be performed at a high level, otherwise the room will not be completely isolated. A glass, panoramic, stained-glass balcony is an excellent solution for a small space. Designers advise to connect it to the room for expansion. A glazed balcony connected to the kitchen on the top floor is a luxurious solution.
What walls of the loggia to insulate and how to do it today we will consider. After all, insulation is a complex of works and only then will the insulation give a positive result. If you finish some walls, there will be no effect.
We will consider all these questions. After studying the material, you can do everything yourself and the price of finishing you will be equal to the cost of the components.
Balcony insulation rules
Many people want to have a warm balcony, but you must immediately understand that the balcony room has a lot of areas through which cold air enters.
Let's consider what needs to be insulated in principle, and further instructions will be given on how to do this and what to apply:
Balcony floor | Here you need to pay attention to the fact that balconies usually have drains for water. These are the holes to be closed. The drain itself can be left on, but the floor must be raised. The bottom line is that when the floor is raised, it is separated from the concrete by an air gap and then the penetration of cold air will be minimal. |
Balcony walls | In this regard, we need to prevent the entry of cold air from the vertical joints of the plates. So the cladding joint will have to be made airtight. For this it is worth using sealants. |
Balcony ceiling | If the neighbor even has a balcony insulated, the slab from the end will still freeze through. Therefore, insulation will have to be done without fail. There should be especially high-quality sealing of the joint from the street side. Indeed, it is from this side that dampness will penetrate most strongly. |
Parapet on the balcony | This part is most susceptible to cold penetration. It should be high quality glazed at the top. For this, wood and plastic frames can be used. But the parapet itself should be insulated. And to make not just an air gap, it is necessary to place a heater with a thickness of at least 5 cm. |
Insulation of balcony walls
Balcony wall insulation begins with drawing up a work plan. If you decide to do without the help of specialists and do it yourself, this article will help you cope. Below are instructions for performing these works, even a beginner can handle it.
Preparation for installation work
You will need the following tools and inventory:
- Polyfoam (as the main element) or mineral wool, penofol, as an addition;
- Euroruberoid or other waterproofing material;
- Construction cement glue;
- Polyurethane foam;
- Wooden slats;
- Dowels for polystyrene (there are special ones with hats);
- Construction stapler with staples 10 mm;
- Self-tapping screws and nails;
- Metal corners;
- Screwdriver, hammer, drill;
- Leveling mixtures (cement, sand) or ready-made;
- Any measuring materials (ruler, meter tape);
- Foil tape.
Before buying materials, think carefully about how you imagine your updated balcony, because the choice of insulation components will depend on the type of finishing of the balcony.
In this Article: Partial Pressure — Water vapor through walls; facade insulation is the best solution for a number of reasons; walls get wet, fungus grows - how to avoid this; why do we need a vapor barrier for insulation; fresh air and warmth in the insulated loggia.
The idea of \u200b\u200bwarming a loggia or glazing a balcony from time to time arises from each and every apartment owner who has these appendages to the living space, where not extra square meters are wasted. However, the implementation of this idea often brings not the results that were originally envisioned - instead of a warm room that can be used for various purposes, households find a humid room filled from nowhere with drafts coming from nowhere with moldy corners. How to guarantee yourself safe from problems that arise only months after the glazing of the balconies and the insulation of the loggias were carried out?
The breathing of the walls is not perceptible, but noticeable
The air around us and our homes, according to physics, consists of several gases and water vapor. The degree of humidity - the concentration of water vapor - depends on the air temperature, the higher it is, the more moisture the air can contain. In the case of high air humidity, its partial pressure increases, which causes the movement of gases from the zone of high partial pressure to the zone of lower one, the higher the difference between them, the higher the intensity of this movement. So, the difference in the partial pressure causes the movement of the gases that form the air - we will understand the consequences of this movement.
With the onset of the cold season and low temperatures, the humidity outside the heated rooms decreases, and the humidity inside them increases due to the higher temperature. As a result of a partial imbalance, the air tends to leave the apartment to the outside, the consequence of this is the outer walls moist from the side of the rooms (peeling wallpaper, plaster and mold) and misted windows. In summer, the situation is the opposite - it is warm and high humidity outside, and the house has air conditioners that cool and dry the air, respectively, gases in the moist outside air will rush into the rooms, harming the facade finish.
The difference in partial pressure between the outside atmosphere and the indoor atmosphere is the cause of the so-called "wall breathing". We figured out the partial pressure, let's move on to the immediate issues of warming the loggia.
Facade insulation of the loggia
Fencing structures without insulation have thermophysical characteristics inherent in the materials that form them. And, no less important, the dew point, i.e. the boundary temperature at which vapor condensation occurs is inside such walls, regardless of the season and the difference in partial pressures. In the case of the enclosing structures of the loggia, the situation is the same, but with its own characteristics - this room usually has thin, rather conventional walls, therefore it is not designed to live in it, especially at low and high temperatures outside.
Facade finishing of balconies and loggias is the most successful - you don't have to worry about vapor barrier, because this task will be taken over by a layer of insulation.
It is most convenient to produce effective facade thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene plates - this thermal insulation material has many times higher characteristics than foam plastic, including in terms of impermeability to steam.
For facade insulation of a loggia (balcony), polystyrene foam plates with a thickness of at least 60 mm are required, ideally about 100 mm (the exact calculation of the plate thickness is determined based on the thermal analysis of the enclosing structures).
Facade insulation technology is as follows:
- the enclosing structures are cleaned from the outside, then expanded polystyrene plates are glued to them using polyurethane-based adhesives;
- after the initial curing of the glue, the insulation slabs are additionally strengthened to the wall using dowels with large mushroom caps;
- then the surface of the slabs is prepared for reinforcement with a fiberglass mesh - they are cleaned with an emery cloth with a large 3 mm grain. Next, a thin layer of polyurethane glue is applied to the entire surface, into which a fiberglass mesh with a 5x5 mm cell is pressed. The glued reinforcing mesh is covered on top with another layer of glue - this operation will increase the strength of the insulation sheathing;
- after the adhesive layer has cured, the surface must be covered with a facade putty, then it can be painted with facade paints or covered with decorative plaster.
The advantages of facade insulation of the loggia:
- as a result, thermal insulation is provided not only for the internal premises, but also for the enclosing structures, which allows them to be removed from the seasonal cycles of freezing and defrosting, thereby increasing their reliability and increasing their service life;
- saving space inside the premises is achieved, i.e. a layer of insulation will not "eat" valuable meters of living space (at 50 mm thickness of the internal insulation, one m 2 is "eaten" for every 20 m 2);
- work on facade insulation will not cause serious inconvenience for household members.
Individual facade insulation, in other words, insulation of only your apartment in multi-storey buildings, especially on the top floors, will not be cheap - you will need to attract climbers. It would be more convenient and somewhat cheaper to completely insulate a high-rise building, but, unfortunately, not all apartment owners will go to these costs, despite the obvious advantages in the future.
Insulated loggia without mold and dampness - details
On the market of heat-insulating materials, there is only one heat-insulating material that is relatively capable of resisting the partial movement of air gases - bulk ecowool made of cellulose, capable of absorbing up to 20% of moisture without affecting its heat-conducting characteristics, this insulation can be left uncovered with a vapor barrier. As for other types of insulation, it is necessary to cover it with a vapor barrier for the reasons described below.
It will be optimal to insulate the walls of the loggia with a hard mineral wool insulation with a thickness of at least 50 mm, since this material is not flammable and does not accumulate condensate due to its fibrous structure. By the way, there are no effective insulation materials of a smaller thickness. Also, a gross mistake when carrying out insulation work will be ignoring the vapor barrier layer, because it is important not only to provide thermal insulation, but also to block the penetration of water vapor into the thermal insulation layer both from the outside and from the inside of the room. Let's consider these points in more detail.
Any attempts to save on insulation by purchasing a material of less thickness than is actually necessary will lead to the accumulation of condensate in the layer of thermal insulation, as a result, the development of biological corrosion of the enclosing structures (mold). As mentioned above, the dew point (the point of condensation of steam) in enclosing structures without insulation is inside them, while the presence of an insulation layer should ideally shift this point inside the insulation. In this case, the development of microorganisms inside the mineral wool material does not occur, because its structure and antiseptic impregnation will not allow this. If you use a heat-insulating material of insufficient thickness, then the dew point in the warm season will not move inside it, but into the zone of contact between the wall and the insulation and will inevitably cause biological corrosion.
However, the problem with condensation deposits on the wall surface is fraught not only with the development of fungal cultures. The outer walls, isolated from the inner atmosphere of the premises with a heat-insulating layer, are no longer heated, which means that at low temperatures of the cold season they will completely freeze themselves and form frost on the inner surfaces from the accumulated condensate. Crystallization of condensate will cause partial destruction of the surfaces of the heat-insulating material in contact with it - after several such cycles, any insulation will be seriously damaged and unable to provide thermal insulation.
Now about the vapor barrier. In the cold season, the partial pressure inside the heated room is higher than outside, so water vapor will try to penetrate into the street through the walls - the result will be condensation deposition on the wall, its icing and destruction of the insulation. The only way to counter this is to install a vapor barrier film from the inside of the insulation layer (facing the inside of the room). There are special films for vapor barrier from well-known manufacturers of thermal insulation materials, you can also use ordinary polyethylene film, provided that its thickness is at least 2.5 microns. It is important that the vapor barrier film overlaps the surface of the insulation with a single sheet without any gaps - the presence of holes in it, even the smallest, is not allowed.
A typical mistake when insulating a loggia from the inside is overlapping with a layer of heat and vapor insulation only on the outer walls, while the boundary of the insulation is determined by the line of their interface with the inner wall. As a result of warming, the external enclosing structures will be completely isolated from heat, which means they will freeze through and transfer cold to the inner walls like a bridge along the line of connection with them. This will not have any serious impact on the climate in the apartment, however, it will cause condensation of moisture near such joints, which will inevitably cause the appearance of mold and mildew. Therefore, when insulating a loggia, it is necessary to install heat-insulating materials not only on the external walls, but also on the internal ones. In the case of a significant size of the loggia, it is not necessary to completely close the inner walls with insulation - about 1.5 meters from their interface with the outer wall.
At the end
It remains to solve two problems - providing fresh air and heating the loggia. Let's start with heating.
Carrying out the insulation of loggias and trying to solve the heating issue by removing the radiator with its connection to the central heating supply - the decision is unsuccessful, i.e. this will be prevented by the heating network workers. An individual source of thermal energy will be required, ideally an electric convector or "warm floor". In the room of the insulated loggia, reliably isolated from the external environment, there will be a fairly high level of air humidity, and convection heaters are able to lower the level of humidity. If the loggia was insulated along the facade (outside), it is better to use an infrared electric heater.
Fresh air in a room that does not have any connection with the external atmosphere will be rare - it simply has nowhere to go. In houses built more than 20 years ago, the provision of fresh air was based on cracks in the windows, the design of the entrance door and the hoods in the kitchen and bathroom - in insulated apartments with modern airtight frames and doors, this technology does not work. If the loggia, after the insulation work, has free air communication with the rest of the apartment, it will be enough to install a small inlet valve in its outer wall - it should be located not far from the floor. Alternatively, a supply valve between the frame and the window opening (its installation must be agreed with the window installer in advance). If there is a permanent door between the room and the loggia, then a small exhaust valve will be required - it must be installed at the top of the wall (near the ceiling) opposite to the one where the supply valve is located. In the case when it is impossible to make supply valves, it is possible to remove carbon dioxide and odors from the air using an air recuperator with a replaceable carbon filter - however, you will still have to periodically ventilate the room.
Abdyuzhanov Rustam, rmnt.ru