Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing work and installation floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.
Decorating the outside of a house with CSP (cement particle boards) is a solution that anyone can implement. In our today's review we will figure out how to properly organize the workflow so that when minimum costs time and effort to get excellent result. I will talk about my experience in carrying out the work and share some little tricks.
This material is suitable both for transforming an existing structure and for cladding houses being built; it copes well with the function of the main exterior finishing and has all the necessary properties for this.
Very often, frame structures are sheathed with DSP, so if you are just building a house, you can immediately provide for the use of this material in the project.
Workflow Stages
Before I start to consider preparatory stage, I want to briefly talk about the pros and cons of DSP in case you are not familiar with the material. The main advantages are:
- High strength and impact resistance;
- The material does not burn and does not absorb moisture;
- Environmentally friendly;
- Vapor permeable and frost-resistant, has good performance vapor barriers.
The disadvantages include fragility when bent (therefore, the material must be carried edgewise) and the large weight of the elements (we will use the 12 mm thick option, the sheet weighs almost 53 kg).
Stage 1 – purchasing the necessary materials and tools
Let's look at the list of required materials. For simplicity, all information is presented in table form.
The instructions require that sheets be transported vertically and stored horizontally.
| Material | Description |
| DSP | I already wrote above that it is best to use the 12 mm thick option; many write that it is brittle, but if you handle it carefully, then nothing bad will happen; for example, we did not break a single sheet. The standard sheet size is 2700x1250 mm, but there may be other options. The price per unit of the above format is approximately 920 rubles |
| Wood block | We will use it to make a frame for fastening the slabs, the minimum size that can be used is 50x50 mm, but I think the 60x40 or 60x60 option is more convenient, it’s easier to fasten elements on it. Some use metallic profile, going under drywall, but it is much more expensive. Choose the option that is more convenient in your case |
| Insulation | It is recommended to put insulation in the sheathing to improve thermal insulation characteristics buildings. Most often, roll or slab mineral wool with a thickness of approximately 5 cm is used. Please note that there should be a gap of approximately 20 mm between the DSP and the insulation for ventilation; sometimes this factor influences the choice of material thickness |
| Windproof film | This is a special membrane material that releases moisture from the inside, but does not let it in from the outside. There are a great many options for sale, so there will be no problems with purchasing, the main thing is not to forget about the 10 cm margin for joints when calculating, otherwise it may turn out that quite a bit was not enough |
| Fasteners | It is best to fix the sheets on the frame using self-tapping screws; this can be either a special fastener with a drill tip or regular option on wood (holes need to be drilled for it). In addition, umbrella dowels are used for thermal insulation, as well as suspensions if it is necessary to move the frame away from the wall or to level out significant level differences |
When purchasing, always check the quality of the materials: the chipboard must be smooth, without damage to the surface, the block must be dry, otherwise the sheathing may become deformed after fastening.
Now we will deal with the tools that you will need when doing the work yourself:
- To cut CBPB boards, we need a grinder with a special stone disc; with its help, the work process is faster and easier. Do not listen to advisers who recommend using a jigsaw; the one who recommends this has most likely never cut similar material in this way;
- To drill holes in the DSP and tighten the screws, you will need a screwdriver; it can easily cope with such work, so there is no need to take an additional drill. Don’t forget about the equipment – attachments for fasteners and drills with a diameter of 4 mm;
- The easiest way to attach a windproof membrane is to use construction stapler, it allows you to quickly fix the material on wooden elements. For work, staples 6-8 mm long are used, no longer needed;
- When placing frame elements, be sure to control the plane using a building level. You will also need a square and a pencil for marking work. In addition, in order not to constantly check the level, you can stretch the cord along the surface as a guide; aligning the block along it is much easier and faster.
Naturally, other tools and materials may be needed, it all depends on the specifics of the work. I have listed the most basic ones, and below I will tell you what else can be used in certain situations.
Stage 2 – installation of the frame and insulation of the surface
Preparing a house for finishing with a DSP has its own characteristics, although in general the process is simple and understandable. Of course, if you are building frame structure, then you don’t need to do anything additional, everything is ready.
In all other cases, you will have to build a supporting system, and this is done in compliance with the following rules:
- Work should be carried out in dry, warm weather; precipitation is extremely undesirable, since wood strongly absorbs moisture. It is also important that the timber is dry, this will prevent deformation of the structure after it is fixed. The walls need to be checked first, and if there are mortar deposits on them, then they should be knocked down, we need a flat surface;
- Before installation, the block should be treated with an antiseptic solution; it is best to use a trough or dig a hole in the ground, cover it with polyethylene and use it as a bathtub for immersion wooden elements. This type of processing is of the highest quality and allows you to achieve the best results. If this is not possible, then the block is simply processed with a brush;
- Then you can start measuring the structure and cutting it into pieces. the right size. Remember that the maximum spacing of the sheathing should be no more than 60 cm, but you can make it smaller; some place elements even after 40 cm. You can fasten the cords along the edges of the wall with nails or dowels at the required level to immediately set the plane of the future structure;
- When it comes to attaching the block, the process may vary depending on the conditions. If the elements are located indented from the surface, then straight hangers are attached along the line after 50 cm, and the block is screwed to them with self-tapping screws. If the fixation is done directly on the wall, then the fastening method depends on the type of base; dowel-nails are used for blocks, brick and concrete, and self-tapping screws of the appropriate length are better suited for wood;
- Most often, vertical racks are attached; it is best to start with the outer elements and go to the middle. After all the elements are installed in place, you can strengthen the structure with horizontal jumpers, but this is necessary if the frame does not have enough rigidity. If everything is fine, then you can fasten the horizontal elements only at the bottom and top along the edges, so that it is convenient to attach the trim;
- The next stage is laying the insulation into the frame, as I wrote above, it is important that there is a gap between the heat insulator and the DSP; if there is none, then you will have to attach a counter-lattice, and this complicates the process. The mineral wool is simply cut into pieces of the required size and placed tightly in it, in principle, it will hold on as is, but it can be fixed now, or a little later, using umbrella dowels;
- Then you should secure the windproof membrane; it is best to cut it into pieces of the required size and secure it to the side edges of the frame, pressing the film against the insulation. After the initial fixation, you can secure the mineral wool with umbrella dowels directly through the windbreak, this way you will press the materials in the best possible way.
Stage 3 – fastening the cement bonded particle board
Now let's deal with installation work, the process is simple, but there are many important nuances that you definitely need to know. Do not forget that even though DSP for exterior finishing is not afraid of moisture, before fastening the material must be protected from water so that it retains its original dimensions.
As for the workflow, it consists of the following actions:
- First, you need to take measurements to figure out whether the material will need to be cut or whether it can be attached entirely. Most often, it turns out that both whole and cut elements are used, in this case it is better to measure the exact cutting parameters after fixing the whole sheets, so you definitely won’t go wrong. As for cutting, the work is done with a grinder along the marked line; do not forget to stock up on a respirator and safety glasses;
Before any finishing of the future facade, be it painting, putty or plaster, you will need to prime the surface. The ends require special attention, but once the material is already fixed, it will be difficult to reach them, so I advise priming them in advance, while the DSP is still in the stack. The cut elements are primed immediately, there is no need to wait for the surface to dry, they can be installed immediately.
- Drilling holes is necessary not only to simplify fastening, but also to create a gap between the screw and the material. The hole must be 0.5 mm larger than the diameter of the fastener so that when the material is deformed under the influence of humidity, the elements are not damaged. If you use standard self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm, then you can drill with a 4 mm drill, the distance between the holes is 20 cm at the edges and 40 cm in the middle;
There should be at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet to the hole; you should not place the fasteners along the very edge, as this can damage the boards and they will crack.
- Now it’s worth estimating the location of the sheet on the plane. Since it weighs a lot, at least one, or preferably two, assistants are needed for work. Remember that between the sheets it is necessary to leave a deformation gap of at least 4 mm wide, this will avoid damage to the material in the future;
- The finishing of the facade of the DSP is completed by fixing the material using self-tapping screws, they are screwed neatly and evenly, while someone is doing this work, two assistants must hold the element motionless so that it does not warp. Do not forget about the gaps between the sheets, and also that the fastener heads should be recessed into the surface by 2-3 mm, so that in the future they do not interfere with painting or plastering.
Stage 4 - decorating the facade
Finishing a house with DSP is not everything; you definitely need to apply either paint or decorative plaster to the surface; you choose the specific option yourself. I will tell you how to prepare surfaces for plastering or painting.
The process is simple:
- First you need to apply a primer to the surface, and for this, strengthening compounds are used deep penetration on acrylic base. The easiest way to carry out the work is with a roller; after application, you need to wait until the surface is completely dry - outdoors this takes a couple of hours;
- The seams must be filled with a special compound; polyurethane sealant is best suited for these purposes.. It is sold in tubes (in this case, a special gun is used for application) or in buckets (application is done using a spatula). It is necessary to fill the seams with the compound and level the layer with a spatula until the sealant dries; the same compound can also be used to cover the recesses from fastening with self-tapping screws;
- It is not necessary to putty the surface, it already looks good, if you have a lot of flaws, you can apply thin layer façade composition to level the walls;
- Any color can be used for coloring facade paint. To give the structure a decorative effect, planks can be attached to the joints; they are secured with self-tapping screws that are screwed into the seams.
Conclusion
Now you know that DSP is excellent for finishing facades; the material is easy to use, durable and lasts for at least half a century. The video in this article will clearly show some important points workflow, and if you still do not fully understand the topic, then write all questions in the comments under this review.
November 18, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
In the first part of the article, we talked about the advantages of cement-bonded particle boards, a facade made of cement-bonded particleboard and the correct installation of this material on external walls. In this material we will answer the following questions:
- How to decoratively decorate a DSP facade with paint and plaster.
- How to beautifully close the joints of slabs in half-timbered style.
- How to make a facade for siding from DSP.
How and how to finish a facade from DSP
JeniaLu User FORUMHOUSE
I have experience working with DSP on facades. Paint is a normal solution, but due to its thin layer, it does not cover the joints of the slabs and fasteners well. I tried gluing clinker tiles onto cement particle boards. The result is that 120 square meters fell off the façade. m.
DSP has a smooth surface, so classic methods slab finishes on the façade do not work.
So, the developer is faced with a choice of how to properly finish the DSP. The most important thing is the preparation of the seams, because... in case of hackwork, all the jambs will then appear on the facade. In the first article we already wrote that It is necessary to leave a deformation gap between the plates about 6-8 mm. Now the question arises: should the seam be open or closed? An open seam is, in most cases, not suitable for aesthetic reasons. In addition, you need to protect wooden block(vertical posts of the sheathing), on which the slab is attached, with waterproofing material.
If this is not done, the block exposed to rain and snow will begin to rot.
Another option is to cover the seam with a decorative strip - a strip. This option is most often used if the façade from DSP is stylized as a false frame.
Important: Decorative strips can be sawn from wood, DSP about 16 mm thick, or fiber cement siding with a wood-like texture. For example, this was done by a portal member with the nickname SergeyU, fastening layouts with a length of 3600 mm and a cross-section of 10x190 mm with four self-tapping screws.
Wooden strips open to all negativity atmospheric phenomena, over time it can twist and warp.
But this version of the facade is not for everyone. You should also remember that you need to lay out the flashings not as it turns out, but strictly in accordance (at least try) with the canons of real half-timbering, which is described in detail in our article.
Moreover, you need to figure out in advance in what order to fasten the slabs on the facade so that the seams run smoothly. Otherwise, then you will have to rack your brains on how to beautifully secure the bar if the DSPs are running apart.
Shek User FORUMHOUSE
I will express my opinion on how the majority imitate half-timbered structures on the façade. Take boards 10-12 cm wide and simply nail them to the walls. Such a fake literally hits the eyes. You don't need to be an expert to understand that this is the usual layout of boards on the facade. No aesthetics, no beauty. A real half-timbered structure is assembled from powerful timber with a cross-section of 20x20 or 25x25 cm. The frame is filled at the same level as the outer plane of the walls. If you make an imitation, then it should be from a board at least 15 cm wide, and it should protrude from the wall no more than 2 cm, or even better, flush. Then the appearance is normal, and the façade looks good.
Of course, making a beautiful pseudo-framework using DSP is not an easy task. A competent calculation and preliminary drawing up of a design project for the facade is required, which specifies exactly how to lay out the slabs so that the seams run symmetrically.
Let's consider a simpler version of false timber using the example of a house Lutsenko.
Lutsenko User FORUMHOUSE
My wife and I bought a plot on which there was a log bathhouse measuring 6x6 m. The first winter showed that it was cold in the house and the wind was blowing through it. We decided to insulate it, add a veranda, and at the same time make a façade from fiberglass board for half-timbering.
First, let's show what the house was like.
And what he became.
The renovation process was divided into a number of sequential steps:
1. Purchase of material.
2. Installation of sheathing.
3. Insulation and installation of hydro-wind protection.
4. Installation of DSP.
5. Priming and painting.
6. Manufacturing of flashings.
7. Installation of planks.
8. Final version.
Lutsenko
Each edge of the sheet was secured with 4 screws + 1 in the center. I calculated it so that all the screws were covered with strips. I drew the cladding diagram in Paint.
Size of DSP on the façade Lutsenko 3200x1200x10 mm. The holes in the slabs were drilled on the ground in advance. The sheets were sawed with a circular saw with a disk with carbide-tipped teeth.
Slabs must be cut outdoors due to the large amount of dust generated. It is best to install the DSP with an assistant, so as not to lift heavy slabs alone.
I made another version of pseudo-framework using DSP SSergeyA.
According to the user, he sealed the gap between the sheets as recommended by the manufacturer - laying a sealing cord with a diameter of 8 mm (with a gap of 6 mm). The cord (a rope made of foamed polyethylene) is recessed into the seam by 2-3 mm.
The top of the joint is sealed with elastic sealant.
The protruding layer of sealant is then smoothed with a spatula.
In this photo, the seam is sealed with tape, sealant and painted with structural paint.
The elasticity of the material allows you to smooth out the stresses that arise in the seams of the prefabricated structure.
The sealant maintains insulation effectiveness when exposed to precipitation, high humidity and high temperatures.
Important: The heads of the screws are recessed 2 mm into the slab, and then all fastening points are also puttied with an elastic compound. The façade, dust-free, with roughness sanded and free of dirt, must be primed and then painted with structural paint.
The overlays were pre-cut to size from DSP, primed, painted and only then screwed on, and the heads of the screws were carefully painted over.
In this project, in places where flashings are used, the joints are sealed only with a plait, without the use of sealant.
Carefully prepared base, high quality straight cut slabs and strict adherence to the recommendations of material manufacturers are the key to a high-quality facade.
Besides coloring DSP, façade can also be finished with elastic plaster.
In this case, as with painting, if the seams are sealed using the “elastic band + sealant” technology, you can do without the use of decorative overlays and get a smooth, uniform wall with a beautiful texture.
DSP facade for siding
Judging by the reports of portal users, such a facade based on DSP is also popular.
But, having chosen this option, you should prepare in advance for a large amount of work on cutting cement-bonded particle boards.
XMAO025 User FORUMHOUSE
I like DSP, but I decided to do something more original and cut the slabs into “boards” using a circular saw, and then install them like siding.
After installing the facade, the user plans to prime it and paint it with acrylic paint.
In addition, when sawing fiber cement siding, you may end up with chips and scratches that will have to be painted over with expensive paint. You also get expensive scraps (the price of fiber cement siding in 2015 was about 930 rubles per 1 sq. m versus 200 rubles for DSP), which then, unlike DSP, cannot be put into use. Another argument that weighed in favor of cement bonded particle boards was that the width of fiber cement siding was 19 cm, and the user wanted “boards” on the facade about 31 cm wide. This reduces the number of horizontal planks, which means the speed of work increases, installation time is saved and the expenses.
The user estimated that it would be necessary to install one and a half times more fiber cement panels than “boards” cut from DSP.
As a result, the user loosened the slabs using a circular saw, onto which he placed a diamond blade from a grinder through an adapter ring (since these tools have different mounting diameters for saw blades).
Egor Shilov
I bought a 1 cm thick DSP with dimensions of 1250x3200 mm. I unrolled the slabs into 4 strips, about 30 cm wide, attached them to the sheathing and painted them in place. The façade fully justified itself; nothing fell off during use, and the paint did not peel off.
At the end of the article, we will present the economic benefits of such a facade, which were calculated by Yegor Shilov. So, costs for making homemade siding from DSP, which included: the cost of the slabs + their sawing + painting, including the purchase of paint - 480 rub. for 1 sq. m.
Let us remind you that fiber cement siding cost 930 rubles. for 1 sq. m. The total difference was 450 rubles. The area of the façade of the house is about 300 sq. m. m. The total savings were 135 thousand rubles.
You can learn all about facades based on cement bonded particle boards in the topic: facades made of cement-bonded particleboard, fastening, processing and finishing.
In the video there is an example correct installation « wet facade» for expanded polystyrene.
The simplest surface finishing of DSP is painting with the formation of open seams (gaps) between the boards
Facade painting of DSP TAMAK. System with visible expansion joints
| Primer, 1 layer | Final painting, 2 layers | Manufacturer |
|---|---|---|
| Disbon 481 | Caparol Thermo San NQG. Facade paint based on silicone resin | Caparol |
| Tiefgrund TB | Amphibolin - Caparol. Acrylic paint | Caparol |
| CapaSol LF | Caparol Acryl - Fassadenfarbe. Acrylic paint | Caparol |
| Caparol Sylitol 111 Konzentra - silicate primer based liquid glass | Silitol-Fin. Mineral paint | Caparol |
| Malech / Elastocolor Primer | Elastocolor. Elastic acrylic paint | MAPEI |
| LNPP, Samara | ||
| VD-AK-18 (Shagreen). Water-dispersed acrylic paint | LNPP, Samara | |
| VD-AK-035 | VD-AK-117. Water-dispersed acrylic in two layers | PIGMENT, Tambov |
| Soil Strengthening Bolars | Structure. Textured Bolars based on acrylic dispersion | Bolars, Moscow |
| Primer Facade | Alpha Coat. Textured paint, matte waterborne quartz-containing | Sikkens |
Facade painting of DSP TAMAK. Closed expansion joint system
PLASTER
Facade plaster DSP TAMAK. System with visible expansion joints or joints covered by decorative strips
Diagram of an open expansion joint to compensate for linear changes caused by temperature and humidity influences.
| The basis | Primer, 1 layer | Finish plaster | Manufacturer |
|---|---|---|---|
| Adhesive reinforcing compound Klebe und Spachte Imasse 190 grau+ reinforcing mesh 650 | Caparol-Putzgrund | Structural plaster Capatect-Fassadenputz R 30 | DAV-Russland |
| Capillary | Fresque (Fresco) - decorative relief paste with a fibrous texture | Maxdecor | |
| Optimist G - 103. Group of Companies "Optimist" | Finishing plaster | GC Wall | |
| Optimist G103 | Finishing polymer-mineral plaster Rain | GC Wall | |
| Acrylit-08 | Acrylit 415, elastic plaster | VLKZ OLIVA LLC | |
| Primeseal | Stuc-O-Flex | Representative office in Russia - Publishing House " Beautiful houses press | |
| Optimist G103 | Finishing plaster Manna D-708 | GC Optimist | |
| Extra glue (manufactured by PK LNPP CJSC) + cement M500 D0. Fiberglass mesh is alkali-resistant. | Textured plaster Fine LNPP | JSC PK LAES |
Facade plaster DSP TAMAK. Closed expansion joint system
Diagram of a closed expansion seam
| Preparation | Base layer | Finish plaster | Manufacturer |
|---|---|---|---|
| Malech primer. Puttying with Mapetherm AR2 and MapethermNet mesh (a 33 cm wide mesh strip is applied to the expansion joint) | Mapetherm AR2 over the entire area with MapethermNet mesh reinforcement in the middle layer. | MAPEI. | |
| Puttying with KerabondT + Isolastic latex and MapethermNet mesh (a 33 cm wide strip is applied to the expansion joint) | Malech primer applying Mapetherm AR2 over the entire area with MapethermNet mesh reinforcement in the middle layer | SilancolorTonachino- decorative plaster silicone based | MAPEI. |
| To seal an expansion joint at a joint DSP sheets TAMAK 12mm thick, a cord of foamed polyethylene (for example Vilaterm), Ø 8mm, is placed in the seam, then elastic putty "JointCompound". | Primer "Stuc-O-Base" | Stuc-O-Flex | Stuc-O-Flex Representative in R.F. publishing house "Beautiful Homes", Moscow |
| Sealing seams with acrylic sealant Accent 117 | Extra Flex" elastic glue + CEMENT M500D0. Alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh, recessed into the middle layer of glue | Sahara Flex - elastic plaster | JSC "PK LNPP", Samara |
| Adhesive reinforcing mass Klebe und SpachteI masse 190 grau+ reinforcing mesh 650. | Caparol-Putzgrund with quartz filler | Capatect-Fassadenputz R 30 | Caparol |
| Align the seam along the joint of the CBPB panels until a single plane of joining of the slabs is created. Place Vilaterm or Isonel cord into the seam. Diameter 6-8 mm. The upper edge of the bundle should not reach the plane of the DSP sheets by 2-3 mm. Fill the seam with Bostik MS-Polymer 2720 sealant | Primer Akrylit 08. Elastic plaster Akrylit-415 | VLZK OLIVE |
NOTE
When carrying out finishing work, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for the use of material systems given by the manufacturer.
The least demanding on the quality of the finished surface are texture paints, therefore they are recommended for painting facades independently with a roller. Non-textured (smooth) paints are recommended to be applied only to specially prepared surfaces with recessed and puttied screws.
For fastening TAMAK DSP to frames on facades, it is recommended to use galvanized or anodized self-tapping screws(hereinafter referred to as self-tapping screws), because black (phosphated) can corrode under the influence of atmospheric moisture; in this case, they lose their strength qualities, and rust can appear through the finish coating.
Surface preparation of TAMAK CBPB for façade finishing work
Before painting, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the DSP as follows.
Cement particle board is a building material that is made from chemical additives. These additives reduce the harmful effects of wood on cement, fine shavings (wood) and Portland cement.
Features of DSP finishing
DSP is used for wall cladding (both external and internal). The main competitors of CBPB are: plywood, plasterboard, OSB, chipboard. The disadvantages of DSP is its high density– 1.4 t/m3. Also, due to its low bending strength, it can break.
Before starting to process the panel, you need to make sure that there are no chemical manifestations on its surface. If found, they should be removed with sandpaper or industrial soap.
Putty for CBPB should be limited only to the area of the seams. To do this, using a spatula, put putty in the gap between the joints of the plates. (flush), and at the same time they putty the places where the screws will be installed. Putty for CBPB is made in order to provide protection against corrosion. After the putty has dried, final puttying is done. To remove irregularities, the places where the slabs are laid are rubbed.
After the DSP joints have been sealed, they can be subjected to facade cladding further processing. To do this, preliminary priming is carried out with a primer composition. Priming is done with a brush or brush. Particularly carefully prime the cut edges of the slabs and the places that were cut out for pipes. After sealing the DSP joints, priming and the rest Finishing work have been completed, you can begin painting and tiling. So, if you decide to tile with ceramic tiles, then DSP is exactly what you need. Because it provides a smooth surface and a very rigid structure that ceramic tiles require.
The same principle is used when treating the inner surface of a cement particle board.
DSP - has excellent sound insulation properties. If used with DSP mineral wool, then they get quite effective remedy, which can protect against noise. If we consider the DSP from the outside fire safety, then according to GOST this material is assigned to the category of low-flammability.
DSP boards do not have a negative impact on the human body, as well as on the environment. natural environment. This is due to the components included in this slab. So, cement particle board can be safely used in the construction of modular houses.
Continuing the series of articles applications of DSP slabs in construction, we present recommendations from manufacturers for processing CBPB (cutting, drilling, milling, grinding), fastening CBPB (using nails and screws, placing and making seams) and surface finishing (painting, plastering).
Let us remind you that cement particle boards (CSB)- a building material with unique properties used in “dry installation” technology. DSPs belong to a generation of modern composite building materials that have properties that combine the strength and durability of cement with the flexibility and ease of wood processing. Universal technical characteristics of the DSP have already been fully appreciated all over the world.
Modern slabs are made by pressing molded technological mixture, consisting of softwood chips (24%), Portland cement (65%), minerals (2.5%) and water (8.5%).
Options for using DSP boards for decorating the facades of buildings of any type are described.
Today on the Internet there is a huge amount of advice and recommendations for working with CBPB boards, but many of them do not correspond to reality. In order to figure out how to properly work with CBPB boards, we turned to the manufacturers' recommendations.
DSP PROCESSING.
Attention! To obtain a high-quality processed surface of cement particle boards, cutting tools made of hard alloys are used.
Cutting.
When cutting (cutting, trimming) cement particle boards on site, hand-held circular saws with a disk diameter of 250 mm and a number of teeth of no more than 40 are used. The rotation speed of the disk is 3000-4000 rpm.
To obtain a smooth edge, the cutting disc should protrude beyond the bottom surface of the slab to a minimum possible distance. The slabs are cut from the reverse side in order to preserve the front side from damage.
Drilling holes.
To drill holes in cement bonded particle boards, hand-held electric drills with electronic speed control are used. To drill single holes, you can use twist drills made of cutting material HSS, for long-term operation - drills made of carbide are recommended.
Milling.
For milling cement-bonded particle boards, hand-held electric milling machines with end mills equipped with carbide tips are used. The rotation speed of the cutting tool ranges from 25-35 m/sec.
Grinding.
Grinding of cement-bonded particle boards is not carried out at the JLLC "TsSP BZS" enterprise. In practice, when installing slabs, local irregularities may appear at the joints, which should be removed by grinding. For this purpose, manual vibration, eccentric (orbital) or belt are used. grinding machines. The grain size of the grinding material should be in the range of 40-80 units.
Attention! When grinding, the upper finely dispersed covering layer is damaged, which leads to the opening of the structure of the slab, an increase in water absorption, and a deterioration in physical and mechanical properties. After finishing the treatment, it is necessary to apply primer to the slabs to stabilize the surface and reduce hygroscopicity.
When cutting, drilling, milling and grinding cement-bonded particle boards, a large number of dust, therefore it is necessary to use dust suction devices and aspiration means.
MOUNTING OF DSP.
Attention! All connecting elements and metal elements load-bearing structures must have an anti-corrosion coating. Before attaching cement bonded particle boards, it is necessary to ensure that the frame elements are vertical and horizontal and that they are in the same plane. All planes and edges of cement bonded particle boards must be primed before fastening. Special attention attention should be paid to priming the edges.
Cement particle boards are attached to load-bearing structures using self-tapping screws and rivets (when attached to a metal profile).
In order to ensure technologically correct fastening of cement-bonded particle boards, the main requirement is to comply with the pitch between fasteners and the distances between them and the edges of the boards, according to the following diagram and table.
Holes for self-tapping screws and rivets are drilled into the DSP with a diameter 1.2 times larger than their own diameter. To deepen the heads of self-tapping screws and rivets, the holes are first countersinked to a depth 1.5-2 mm greater than the height of the heads.
For fastening DSP without pre-drilling holes, you can use special screws with a reinforced tip and a countersunk head equipped with blades to form a recess (countersink) to fit its dimensions.
Attention! The size of screws and self-tapping screws is chosen with the condition that the length of the pinched part is at least twice the thickness of the DSP board and at least 10 screw diameters. When tightening screws and self-tapping screws, do not use excessive force to avoid cracking the slab.
The table shows minimum dimensions screws and self-tapping screws used for fastening cement-bonded particle boards to elements load-bearing frames depending on its thickness and the diameter of the dowel of the hardware product.
Attention! When using cement particle boards for cladding walls, partitions and ceilings, it is necessary to lay them with a seam, the width of which is 6-8 mm for external and 3-4 mm for internal use. The seam can be closed with an external strip, a wooden, tin, metal or polymer profile can be inserted, or covered with plastic putty based on acrylic resins or polyurethanes.
SURFACE FINISHING DSP.
Cement-bonded particle boards, like any wood-based particle boards, are susceptible to small expansion and shrinkage due to changes in temperature and humidity levels.
At the joints of the slabs, it is necessary to leave a gap for thermal expansion, allowing linear expansion of the slab. To prevent cracking in the joint compound, the width of the closed expansion joint should be 8 mm for external use and 4 mm for internal use.
The simplest is an open expansion joint.
Attention! Cement particle boards are supplied from the manufacturer with a moisture content level of 9±3%. Interim storage before processing, as well as installation, must be carried out in dry conditions. Failure to comply with this requirement may result in the slabs absorbing an unacceptably high amount of moisture, which can lead to damage in closed seams and/or fastening areas, as well as damage to paint coating surface of the slabs applied at the work site.
The designs of the end faces of cement-bonded particle boards and joints are varied. The most common systems are presented below. When using cement bonded particle boards outside buildings and for wall cladding, it is not recommended to sand the surface of the boards (except in cases where the sanded surface requires special requirements). Sanded boards, in which the wood particles are directly visible on the surface, are generally used for flooring only (due to strict thickness requirements) and also in special cases.
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Open expansion joint.
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Open expansion joint with chamfered at the edges of the DSP.
Closed expansion joint.
Using a floor strip.
Attention! Regardless of the methods used for surface finishing of cement bonded particle boards, mandatory priming of their planes and edges is required. The reverse sides of the slabs are primed before installation.
Painting of DSP boards.
The simplest and most common method of surface finishing of CBPB is painting with the formation of expansion joints between the slabs (open joints).
In this case, before applying paint to the surface of the cement bonded particle board, you must:
- deepen all screws 1-2 mm into the slab;
- clean the surface of the stove from dirt and dust. If there are grease or oil stains, they must be degreased;
- when cleaning wet, it is necessary to dry the slab;
- fill all cavities and chips with façade putty;
- after the putty has completely dried, sand the putty areas;
- clean and prime front side and the edges of the cement particle board (stabilizes the surface, reduces hygroscopicity, unifies the base);
- paint the slab.
Attention! Paints and varnishes must contain pigments that are stable in an alkaline environment. Unstable pigments can lead to variations in color shades.
Filling expansion joints with elastic putties.
Expansion joints are filled with elastic putties based on acrylic resins and polyurethanes. Silicone putties are not used for cement-bonded particle boards.
The main rule for the operation of an expansion joint is the exclusion of a three-sided fit in the joint, which causes uneven loading of the elastic filler with its subsequent separation from the edges of the cement-bonded particle boards.
To do this, use liners made of polyethylene tape or cord made of foamed polyethylene, which allows the elastic filler to adhere only to the opposite edges of the cement-bonded particle boards and evenly distribute the load on the filler.
Closed expansion joint made of elastic putty with a liner made of polyethylene tape.
Closed expansion joint made of elastic putty with a liner made of foamed polyethylene cord.
Plastering works.
Plastering works on cement bonded particle boards carried out with an open seam and a seam closed with a finishing system or flashing strips.
Plastering work is carried out in cases where the surface of the slabs should look monolithic and smooth, without visible expansion joints. As is known, with a change in relative humidity, elongation or shrinkage of CBPB boards occurs. To ensure that these changes do not affect the appearance of the plastered surface and do not lead to the formation of cavity (hairline) cracks, it is necessary:
- attach previously primed slabs to the structure;
- fill the resulting expansion joints with elastic putty;
- perform flat putty on the working surface;
- press an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh into the resulting coating layer;
- apply a leveling layer of putty;
- perform final (finishing) surface finishing.
Facing cement particle boards with ceramic tiles or decorative stone.
When facing the working surfaces of cement bonded particle boards with ceramic tiles or decorative stone, elastic mastics must be used to fasten them and fill expansion joints.
It is recommended to apply adhesive mastic to the entire working surface of the slab. It is recommended to route expansion joints between the slabs, ensuring their alignment with the seams ceramic tiles And decorative stone. Otherwise ceramic facing tiles or an element of decorative stone that overlaps joining slabs should be glued to only one of the slabs, leaving the overlap area without adhesive mastic.
In rooms with insufficient ventilation for structures with constant water load (bathtub, shower), pre-primed cement-bonded particle boards should be used, followed by applying waterproofing putty to them.