No one country house cannot do without a stove, as it will both feed and warm. Today, gas pipelines have been installed in many villages, and it would seem possible to switch to more convenient way heating. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to abandon brick stoves, which provide a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick stove in the house.
To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the layout and masonry technology. Before you begin to study a specific option, you should consider several models, since there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will take up less space in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.
There are a lot of models of brick stoves. Experienced stove makers can make their own changes to finished projects, since they already know by heart where and how they should pass internal channels, through which smoke is discharged. Thanks to correct scheme their placement in the furnace design, it will heat up evenly and give off most heat into the room. It is better for novice masters to strictly follow the already drawn up order schemes, without deviating a single step from them, since even one is incorrect laid brick can ruin all this rather labor-intensive work.
Types of brick kilns
Based on their functionality, stoves are divided into three main types - cooking, heating and. Choosing a suitable design, Firstly you need to decide what exactly will be required of her.
The hob has a cast iron panel for cooking food and heating water. Typically such ovens have small size and are popular for installation in small private houses and in the country. Of course, a cooking stove can, in addition to cooking food, also warm a small room.
The heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive structure A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or country house with large area, and its design sometimes includes a bed, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.
Always compact. It does not include a hob and serves only to heat the premises. Such a structure can warm two rooms if it is placed between them, built into the wall.
Choosing the optimal location for the furnace
Having chosen the desired stove model, you need to look for it appropriate place. The structure can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove structure and the desires of the home owner.
- Stove in the middle large room, can divide it into two different zones, for example, in the kitchen and dining room or living room. The hob will go into the kitchen, and flat wall with well-made masonry it will become designer decoration living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to add a wall to the stove and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition should be insulated from the stove with non-combustible material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
- It is not advisable to build a stove near external wall, since there it will quickly cool down.
- When installing a stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
- The proposed construction site must be carefully measured and be sure to take into account that the foundation should be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the building so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
- To make it easier to work, you need to find an ordering diagram for the selected model.
Having decided on the model and installation location, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.
Tools, building materials for laying a brick stove
Depending on the size of the furnace, it requires different quantities materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the tools required for masonry are the same.
Tools
Of the tools and equipment for the construction of any furnace you will need:
The “goat” is a scaffold that will make it easier to work at height when the stove is raised above human height. They are convenient because the stove master can not only climb onto them, but also place a container with a solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.
“Goats” will be needed when laying the top rows Another version of the stand, more compact, is the “tragus”. You need to have two such devices, because if you place them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick boards on top, you will get the same platform. Can also be used separately, as stairs.
You can get by with a couple of more compact trestles, making temporary plank flooring on them The following set of tools will need to be prepared:
1. A pick will be needed to separate and trim the brick.
2. A broom made from sponge, for removing dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and mopping inside the masonry.
3. Corner - will help bring the corners inside and outside the oven exactly 90 degrees.
4. A plumb line is needed to check the verticality of the walls.
5. A kiln hammer is also required to separate bricks into pieces and chip off small protrusions of hardened mortar.
6. Pliers will be needed for biting, bending and straightening the wire.
7. A rubber hammer is necessary for tapping bricks in masonry if it is difficult for them to fit.
8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as dismantling old masonry.
9. Trowel (trowel) different sizes- for applying the solution and removing excess excess.
10. The rule will be necessary to level the surface of the foundation.
11. A lead scriber is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to decorate the stove with tiles.
12. The knocker is a piece of pipe, which is also used for cutting tiles; instead of a hammer, it is used to hit a knife.
13. Wooden spatula - for mixing and grinding the solution.
14. Metal scriber rod for marking.
15. A level is needed to check the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls.
16. A rasp is used to remove sagging and grind in lumps.
17. Jointing is necessary for neatness of the seams if the stove will not be plastered or finished with decorative tiles.
18. Container for mixing the solution.
19. A sieve that will help you make masonry mortar thin.
Construction materials
The amount of materials will depend on the selected furnace, and their list is almost always the same. For purely heating type no hob, oven cabinet, or water tank is required. But usually standard set cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:
1. Blower door.
2. Door for fireboxes
3. Cleaning doors ovens.
4. Chimney damper.
5. A burner made of several rings.
6. Hob.
7. Grate.
Other metal elements you may need:
1. Oven.
2. Tank for water.
3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.
4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.
5. Steel wire.
Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:
1. Red hardened brick.
2. Fireclay brick.
3. Ingredients for clay mortar or a ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.
4. For the foundation you will need cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing felt for waterproofing.
5. Heat-resistant material will also be needed for protective finishing of the walls of the house and a metal sheet or ceramic tile for the floor.
Prices for refractory bricks
Fire brick
Preparing a site for the construction of a stove
Usually the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with common foundation at home, although they do not strictly bind him to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is erected in a finished building.
Further actions depend on what kind of floor is installed in the room.
- If the foundation is concrete and completely poured, according to the principle of a slab, and the structure of the stove is not designed to be too massive, then you can begin to lay the stove directly on the concrete floor, having first laid a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
- If the foundation is strip or the floor is wooden, then you will have to build the foundation from scratch.
Foundation
The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place for the stove is marked on the floor, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.
- A pit is dug in the exposed soil, 400-500 mm deep.
- At the bottom of the pit, a “cushion” of 100 mm is made of sand, and then of the same thickness - from crushed stone, the layers are well compacted.
- Next, along the perimeter of the pit, formwork is installed for pouring concrete - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
- The lower layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed in an even layer over the entire area, and left to harden.
- After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour the top layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with fully prepared concrete mortar and leveled using the rule, and the top formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it must be moistened with water, starting from the second day, which will improve the uniformity of maturation of the cement mortar and prevent cracks from forming.
- A fully finished foundation (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) is covered with roofing felt to create a layer of waterproofing. Then markings are made on this surface - the shape of the stove base is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.
Dry masonry
- Experienced craftsmen recommend that a novice stove maker take his time laying bricks on the mortar so as not to make mistakes. Especially if this work is being carried out for the first time, it is best to dry out the entire furnace structure.
- By carrying out this process carefully, with a constant eye on the existing diagram, you can understand internal structure chimney channels and the installation of a firebox and vent.
- For dry masonry, you need to prepare auxiliary slats with a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - during the main masonry it will be filled with mortar, forming seams.
- After the entire stove model up to the chimney pipe has been laid out, it is disassembled again, while the bricks of each row can be stacked separately, if there is enough space in the room for this, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
- It should immediately be noted that during the final laying, it is also better to first lay out each row dry again, for control, and then immediately fix it with mortar.
- In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on the mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber hammer. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
- Having laid two or three rows until the solution has set, the seams are decorated with jointing. If suddenly the solution is not wet enough, you can sprinkle it with a little water from a spray bottle.
- We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.
Knowing these nuances, you can proceed directly to the masonry.
The presented video shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove, which is suitable even for a very small room. True, others additional functions it does not include:
Video: heating stove for small spaces
Compact "Swedish"
Convenient, versatile and fairly compact Swedish oven Can be called the most accurate and compact oven, suitable for small rooms. This stove can be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has tall body with smoke exhaust channels located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, the design also includes a hob.
The first picture shows a “Swede”, which has a wider pediment than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows there is a drying niche above the stove. This version of the stove is twice as wide as the second model.
This is also a “Swedish”, but of a slightly different design The ordering diagram shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, there is a niche above the hob, a slightly different location of the pipe - on the other side of the structure, and consistent roundness of the corners. When laid in this order, the stove will look something like this.
The structure is laid out based on the ordering diagram:
Layout diagram for laying a compact heating and cooking "Swedish" Although this diagram shows that they begin to lay out the blower chamber from the first row, after all It’s worth laying it out in a continuous plane and only from the second row can you start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the diagram, and the first continuous row can be called “zero”.
- So, the formation of the blower chamber begins from the first row.
- A blower door is installed on the second row. The door is secured with wire and temporarily supported with bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.
- From the fourth row, two chambers for cleaning begin to be removed and doors are also installed on them.
- A grate is laid on the fifth row.
- The firebox door is also secured with wire to the sixth row, and is also temporarily supported by bricks mounted on the grate, and Also, if necessary, a support is placed with front side doors.
- On the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical smoke exhaust channels is laid.
- On the ninth row, the firebox door is covered with a brick, the wire of which is secured and tucked into the seams between the rows.
- On the eleventh row, a hob is placed on the left opening, and strips of asbestos are placed under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed by a steel angle.
- From the twelfth to the sixteenth row the cooking chamber is displayed.
- On the seventeenth row, metal strips are laid, and its upper edge is formed with a corner.
- The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three smoke exhaust channels.
- On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and cleaning chamber and a niche for drying.
- At 22- ohm row, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
- On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely blocked, and at its end a hole is left that will continue the smoke exhaust channel.
- On 24- ohm a row of metal strips cover the drying niche.
- At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
- At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
- At 28- ohm The entire chamber is completely blocked.
- At 30- ohm In a row, two valves are installed on the smoke exhaust channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the mortar, and then the valve is inserted into it.
- From 31st to 35th th a row is laid out a segment.
- From the 35th to the 38th, the construction of the pipe fluff begins.
- Next comes the laying of the pipe, which already has your own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, you just need to very carefully monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from solution residues) of the smoke exhaust channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
- On the third row, another door is placed on the cleaning chamber.
- At 27- ohm Another chimney valve is installed in a row.
- At 29- ohm they expand the pipe by one row, and by 30- ohm it is brought into its initial form.
- Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is discharged through the roof.
When passing chimney through attic floor, it must be isolated from it with flammable materials - it could be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, poured into a box located around the entire perimeter of the pipe.
The hole in the roof through which the pipe passes must be closed after construction. waterproofing material, which is applied both to the pipe and to the roof.
Installation of other oven elements
As mentioned above, there may be other elements built into the stove, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.
Oven
If the design includes an oven, it is most often installed on the same level as the firebox or hob. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.
- Metal corners are first installed in the place where it will be installed - they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.
- Next, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help thin metal the cabinet will last longer.
Video: technology for laying an efficient stove with an oven
Prices for masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives
Masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives
Hot water tank
The water heating tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the design of the furnace, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the smoke exhaust duct, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, you need to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is advisable to make the water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come out of it, unsuitable for water procedures.
Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it on the same level as the hob, above the firebox, when it will only heat up from below. In this case, it is best to place a cast iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this installation option is not embedded in the walls of the oven.
The disadvantage of this setup is that less space remains for hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.
When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think through everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a building design with an ordering scheme.
It should be noted that laying a stove is a real art, and not even everyone experienced craftsman everything always turns out “excellent”. Therefore, if you do not have any skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help you do everything correctly.
As a rule, small brick kilns are installed. You can easily make such stoves yourself, having first studied the technology of laying stoves.
Choosing a brick oven for your home
First you need to decide on the specific type of oven. And for this, study in detail existing types ovens and choose the most suitable option for yourself:
- Dutch channel ovens They are small in size and quite simple to construct. The efficiency is not high, about 40%. These ovens operate in slow burning mode.
- Swedish chamber-channel brick kiln has a higher efficiency compared to Dutch ones. The overall dimensions are also not large, but the design itself is more complex in execution. In addition, all building materials for this furnace must be selected more carefully.
- Russian stove has the highest efficiency, over 75%, but the laying of such a stove is very complex, and you are unlikely to be able to do it without the help of professionals.
- Brick heating and cooking stove- a more common and simpler heating option. This stove requires a small amount of building materials, and you can make a simple design yourself.
If this is your first time building a stove, then self-construction choose a Dutch oven or a brick kiln because building Swedish ovens is more difficult and requires some experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, you should not undertake its construction yourself. 
The next step is to determine what size your stove will be and how many rooms it will heat. IN small house the stove can be placed in the wall between rooms.
The main condition for the placement and construction of the furnace is very simple: direct heating from the furnace walls must capture a large number of rooms.
If this is not possible, it is better to use stoves with built-in water heating coils. With this type of stove, the remaining rooms will be heated with special ones.
Brick for laying the furnace
For extended service life and proper operation stoves, you need to carefully select building materials, namely bricks. In addition to strength and durability, its thermophysical properties, which provide warmth in your home, also depend on your choice.
For a Swedish stove it is very important to choose high-quality building materials, but for a Dutch stove the quality requirements are not so high.
Heating brick stoves used to be made of red brick, but today we can distinguish 2 main types: 
- red ceramic brick, grade 150;
- Fireclay fire-resistant brick.
- The bricks must be the same size;
- Usage hollow bricks or silicate is strictly prohibited. A solid ceramic brick is required;
- For cladding, choose decorative bricks;
- For the combustion chamber, choose refractory fireclay bricks.
Instructions and drawing for ordering brick kilns
Now let's take a closer look at the masonry itself. All sides of masonry bricks have their own name, and the type of masonry is determined by them. The most common masonry of brick kilns is the butt and spoon masonry. Those. from the front brick wall we will only be able to see these two sides of the brick. There is also bedding, but it is extremely rare to find it, because... It is not used for bricklaying stoves. When laying, the vertical seams between the bricks should not coincide.
Brickwork ovens start from the first row, constantly checking according to the diagram where the masonry is located. In this work, haste will be a bad help, the main thing is quality. If you are new to construction, it is better to initially lay each row without mortar, checking the drawings. And only after making sure that the entire installation is correct, apply the mortar to the bricks and lay them finally.
The thickness of the seam should be at least 2 mm, but not more than 3 mm, so it is better to remove excess clay immediately. In some cases, the thickness of the seam is exactly 5 mm. The brick must be placed immediately in the right place; further moving and knocking is unacceptable.
Extra clay mixture Once removed from bricks, they cannot be reused.
Below are instructions for laying:
For styling brick oven for a home with your own hands, you will need a lot of free time. Each brick has its own important meaning. If you approach the issue efficiently and responsibly, the end result will be warmth and comfort in your home.
Despite the large number modern methods heating, the stove does not lose its popularity. It can still be found in many country houses to maintain comfort and create a favorable atmosphere.
However, the stove will serve for a long time and efficiently, giving off heat, only if the following questions are answered:
- Where is the best place to place the stove?
- What materials and tools are needed for the work?
- What should be the solution for the oven?
- How to properly lay a stove?
Where is the right place to place the stove?
When thinking about how to fold a stove with your own hands, you need to place it correctly. To do this, the following conditions are taken into account:
- The walls of the smoke channel must be located from wooden structures at a distance of at least 40 cm
- The chimney is allowed to be installed at the same level as the ridge projection if it is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m
- If the distance from the ridge to the chimney is 1.5 m or less, the latter should be 0.5 m higher
- If the pipe is removed more than 3 m from the ridge protrusion, its height can be made lower, but the angle between the roof slope and the line that connects the upper section of the pipe and the ridge should not exceed 10 degrees
Read also the guide on how to do it yourself
The foundation of the house and the stove have their own specific characteristics, so it is not permissible to combine them with each other.
Materials and tools
Regardless of the type of stove chosen, the work involved in their construction is very similar, and the structures themselves have minor functional differences from each other. On the technical side, they will differ in versatility, degree of impact and size.
Source building materials For the construction of brick kilns the following are used:
- wire
- lime with sand
- brick
When purchasing the latter, you need to ensure that it is in the correct shape and has a sufficient level of firing.
To prepare the solution, you can use refractory, red or even ordinary clay. It will also be required auxiliary equipment, which can be purchased at the markets:
- Required doors and dampers
- Views and sliders
- Grate grates
- Cookers with burners, etc.
In addition to materials and components for the stove, you will need to prepare a set of working tools (level, plumb line, milk brush, usually a stove-maker's hammer, level, etc.).
Preparing the mortar for laying the stove
The mortar for a home brick stove is a clay-sand mixture. The sand must be sifted through a sieve so that its cell sizes do not exceed 1.5 mm. At this time, the clay should be soaked in water for 2-3 days. It would be a good idea to pass the finished solution through a sieve (3x3 mm). Each stove maker chooses the proportions for himself.
Having mixed sand and clay, you need to add water and begin to mix the resulting mixture until a thickness similar to rich sour cream is formed. Quality solution should be placed on the brick in a clot and spread with a layer of 4-5 cm (recommended joint thickness).
Arranging a brick oven
When everything necessary has been collected, and the foundation has managed to solidify reliably, we begin to solve the main problem of how to build a stove with our own hands - brickwork. It should be noted that there are a huge number of order options and only one will be considered further - Swedish. It is great for heating and cooking. Before starting work, it is recommended to keep the brick in water for up to 10 minutes.
All information about the furnace must be shown in the drawings. They can reflect both the entire structure and its individual parts or cutouts. For each row, horizontal dimensions are given - orders.
As an option for heating the room, you can use an electric boiler...
The most important is the first row - it is necessary to strictly control the angles, vertical and horizontal. Having made mistakes, even minor to the eye, they will make themselves felt in the future.
The blower in the niche is usually located on the right side. But to make it easier to remove ash from it, in the direction of the camera internal sides combed into a cone. Very often you will have to use not a whole brick, but its certain part. It is better to cut the pieces with a special diamond-coated disk, but do not beat them with a hammer.
After installing the blower door, the laying of the second row begins. In this case, dressing is done with a displacement of 30-50% for greater stability of the structure.
The height of the third row should coincide with the top edge of the door. In this case, you must remember to trim the edges of the brick, forming a cone inside the blower for easier removal of ash.
Row four is laid on the left. First, install the cleaning door. A U-shaped channel is made. It is necessary to place a square hole above the ash pan, while blocking the blower door.
The fifth row has practically no differences from the fourth, but the hole above the ash pan needs to be narrowed a little more.
Need to prepare fire brick, before starting to lay the sixth row (it will be in place of the hatching). If this is not possible, a regular one will do. In this case, it is necessary to support the grate on the fifth row. Between it and the bricks a compensating small gap of up to 15 mm is required, which is filled with sand or sand.
In the seventh row, it is necessary to block the previously formed U-shaped channel so that it forms three new ones. A firebox door is placed on the sixth row.
The eighth and ninth rows are placed similarly to the seventh. They should reach the top of the fire door.
In order for flue gases to smoothly pass into the channel from the firebox, it is necessary to scrape off the bricks that block the left channel and the firebox partition.
When laying out the tenth row, you need to ensure that it is strictly vertical. A cooking floor will be laid on top of it, which cannot be mowed, otherwise cooking will be extremely inconvenient. The fire door is completely closed and two strictly square channels are left.
The question of how to build a brick oven with your own hands is half resolved. The cooking floor covers the combustion chamber, resting on the tenth row. The edge of the bricks that will be in contact with it must be combed, forming a gap of up to 2 cm. A small door for the combustion chamber is immediately installed and the eleventh row is laid out. Two square channels remain on the left.
The twelfth and thirteenth rows are laid almost identically. The main difference is that at first both square channels are combined into a single one, and in the next row they are separated again.
The fourteenth row is installed in a similar way to the previous one, but in it one channel is blocked by a damper. When closed, you can use the cooker without letting the stove heat up.
In the fifteenth row the valve is closed, and in the sixteenth row the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove odors and ventilate the cooking section, it is necessary to install a door between it and the channel already closed by the valve.
In the seventeenth row, it is necessary to lay steel strips above the cooking chamber, which will allow the chamber to be blocked. In a conventional heating furnace, a dome-shaped ceiling would have to be constructed.
The next two rows cover the cooking area, but both square channels remain untouched.
Two bricks are placed on the surface of the cooking area on edge, distant from back wall 40 cm. Doors for cleaning and a samovar pipe are immediately installed. The next row is laid by analogy.
In the twenty-second row it is necessary to close the doors. Three longitudinal channels are made above the cooking area (11, 5 and 11 cm, respectively), and on the left - the same two square ones. In the twenty-third row, the longitudinal channels are covered with bricks laid transversely. The next row is done in the same way.
By analogy with the twenty-second, rows 25-26 are placed.
In the twenty-seventh row you need to lay three bricks at the same distance and distance from the walls. This leaves only one square channel. By analogy, the next two rows are laid.
In the thirtieth row, it is necessary to completely block the heat chamber, leaving one smoke channel, which is closed with a valve. The next two rows are laid with a slight offset relative to each other. Three such rows guarantee fire safety.
All that remains is to install a simple chimney for the stove.
Detailed video instructions for laying a stove with your own hands
In custody
The given order of the Shvedki stove is one of the most common today. It not only makes it possible to heat the room, but also to cook food. Increasingly, such a design can be found in country houses.
But the question of how to build a stove with your own hands turned out to be difficult and there is no confidence in your efforts - before starting work, you should contact a stove maker or a person who has already built similar structures. He will certainly give you a lot of valuable advice.
No one a private house cannot do without a traditional heating and cooking stove made of brick. And although many homes today are equipped gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to give up a brick stove, since it provides special warmth - the warmth of a home, filling the home with comfort and a sense of calm. In addition, in regions rich in forests you can significantly save on costs. natural gas, having acquired firewood.
The desire to remodel a house, including moving a heating and cooking stove, can often come down to the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to build a stove with your own hands in this material.
There are many types of stoves, but not all are used in private construction.
Types of stoves for private homes:
- Heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
- Cooking(oven exclusively for cooking);
- Universal(heating and cooking).
The latter variety is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.
Furnace structure and its properties
Having looked through sketches and designs of brick kilns, and choosing a specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its exterior design, how much for the internal structure. The design of a heating and cooking furnace determines its performance, and ultimately its service life.
The internal design of a heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the device itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in a corner or against a wall.
The main structural elements of a heating and cooking furnace:
- Shantsy (heat-air channels);
- Ash pan (or ashpit);
- Grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
- Under (slope to the grate);
- Combustion chamber;
- Burnout (smoke exhaust);
- The furnace vault (separates the combustion zone from the post-burning zone in the combustion chamber);
- Vent (hole through which heat enters the heated room);
- Exterior wall;
- Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber to the chimney);
- Overlap;
- Chimney;
- Indentation (the space between the chimney and the stove);
- Smoke valves;
- Heat-dissipating walls.
The heat output of a stove is determined by the amount of thermal energy released by the stove per hour and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to retain heat from burned fuel) is measured in hours. Different ovens have different levels heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.
The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.
Russian stove and its structure
A Russian brick stove is installed on a foundation, since its structure is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a podpechok, used to store fuel, which dries in it and easily flares up when the stove is lit. The bakehouse is closed with a vault-trough, onto which a bedding in a clay solution is poured. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.
The Russian stove has a special design that differs significantly from the traditional heating and cooking stove in terms of heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short period, a Russian stove accumulates heat and is capable of releasing it for 24 hours.
To ensure that the Russian stove does not consume excessive amounts of fuel, does not smoke and does not cool down in a matter of hours, when constructing it, it is important to follow the exact masonry technology and dimensions included in the diagram. Bricks forming internal organization ovens are trimmed and polished so that the walls inside the heil are even and smooth.
Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or bakery and a firebox (furnace). The floor of the furnace has an inclined design, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when constructing a Russian stove.
The crucible is the main secret that Russian cuisine hides. Some dishes need to simmer in the cooking chamber for a long time after cooking. Achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for preparing Russian cuisine using the usual hob or an electric oven is not possible.
The main secret that distinguishes a Russian stove from a traditional one is the smoke channel simplest design, which is superior in efficiency to the smoke duct devices of other furnaces.
Making a Russian stove with your own hands (video)
Design selection
The choice of furnace type depends on its operating conditions:
- Heating and cooking stove. If you plan to use the stove intensively in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with massive device and regular heating. In the construction of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first heated, then heat transfer begins.
- Heating stove. For a house in the mountains or a summer house, where permanent residence not planned, a fireplace will suffice. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up a room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up during the cold season.
A brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. The lightest structure is assembled into a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on its edge). In order to give it strength, a frame made of metal corners. A massive furnace requires a foundation, which should not be connected to the support of the building. In the case of a separate chimney, it also requires its own foundation.
Deciding on size and power
The level of heat transfer of a heating and cooking stove must exactly meet possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and ceilings.
The size and design of the future furnace is determined by its power.
Furnace structure. Where to begin?
The laying of any stove cannot be started without a design or drawing, which must include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the exit of the chimney without disturbing load-bearing elements buildings. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The diagram or design of the future furnace is drawn up on the basis of this calculation.
It is quite difficult to independently create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove, so you can use the services design organization or information on the Internet.
Tools and materials
When the furnace design is approved, you can prepare for its laying.
To fold the stove with your own hands, you need to have on hand:
- Stovemaker's hammer (trowel);
- Master OK;
- Construction level and plumb lines;
- Measuring tape;
- Cement-sand mortar;
- Hand-held power tools (hammer, grinder, etc.);
- Red brick;
- Fireproof brick (burnt);
- Facing brick;
- Mortar for masonry made of clay and sand;
- Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
- Stove fittings and appliances.
Laying a stove with your own hands. All stages
Like any construction process, laying a stove with your own hands is done in stages.
The scheme of this process includes the following points:
- Construction of the foundation. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a broken one. A foundation is not used for all stove structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive stove, you cannot do without its construction.
In no case should the support of the future furnace come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and if they are misaligned, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is a fire hazard.
The depth of the foundation depends on the weight of the furnace structure and its design, and the support area must exceed dimensions oven at least 5 cm around the entire perimeter. The foundation is leveled with baked brick masonry in two rows on cement mortar to floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the design of the entire furnace will depend on it. Next comes a layer of waterproofing, for which you can use ordinary roofing felt or roofing felt; the material is laid in two layers.
- Furnace laying. The first row is laid on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork from each row should be started without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to the future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next to the place corner brick the mortar is laid and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air is released. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and correctly laid on the mortar, tapping it with a trowel to level it. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.
A stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its boundaries, fuel is processed, heat is produced and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay a stove with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules that have been proven in practice for centuries, guaranteeing normal work unit.
Those who want to know how to perfectly build brick stove, they will find us detailed information on all important issues of interest independent master. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are presented in great detail, the main postulates of stove makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.
The information we provide will provide effective assistance in the construction of a brick kiln. All its components will perform their duties flawlessly, and the structure itself will last for many years without complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected sequence diagrams, photographs, and video recommendations.
Before you start building a stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences that must initially be taken into account. There is also a reasonable difference in the procedures developed by stove makers for precise brick laying.
There are many stove designs that can be divided into groups according to their purpose:
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