Water or hydraulic floors are the most common type of insulated floors. Firstly, a water floor is lower in price during installation and subsequent operation. Secondly, you can do it yourself, without resorting to the help of professional installers, which means you can reduce costs. Thirdly, a water floor is considered safer for human health, compared, for example, with an electric or infrared floor, where electromagnetic radiation is an inevitable consequence.
The water floor has two types of installation.
- First - concrete system, in which a concrete screed becomes the base, it accumulates heat. This system is good in individual low-rise buildings with strong floors.
- Second - flooring system, which is used in wooden “light” houses, attics, where concrete screed cannot be used, since the floors cannot support its weight. The flooring system is also used in multi-storey buildings, especially in “Khrushchev” buildings, where the floors are made of slabs with limited load.
The floor becomes a source of heat in the room, providing horizontal, uniform heating in any area of the room. The heat spreads vertically, creating a natural "feet warm, head cold" effect, unlike radiator heating where the heat goes up and then back down.
This heating system works especially well where there are high ceilings. The air does not dry out, the apartment warms up evenly. Hydraulic floors also benefit from aesthetics, since there is no need for wall radiators, space is freed up. In addition, water heated floors are economical to operate; their energy consumption is lower, which means the costs of maintaining the system are reduced.
Disadvantages of a hydraulic floor
When choosing a water floor, you should take into account heat loss, which should not exceed 100 W/m2. To reduce them, you should take thermal insulation seriously. If heat loss is high, it is better to combine water floors with wall-mounted radiators.
Laying heated floors in toilets and bathrooms has its own difficulties. Often the water heating pipe is connected to the heated towel rail pipe, which leads to elevated temperatures and the floor overheats excessively.
Difficulties arise where the ceiling is low, since the screed above the pipes must be significant in thickness, it is necessary to raise the floor to a height of approximately 10 cm. And if the bathroom is located above a cold basement, the rise reaches 15 cm. Additional costs also come from strengthening floor slabs and other load-bearing structures, as well as for reinstalling doors.
What will you need for installation?
To install a hydraulic heated floor you will need:
- boiler for water heating;
- pump for pumping water (often built into the boiler, but sometimes you need to purchase it additionally);
- pipes that are heating elements (it is better to choose metal-plastic, approximately twenty-millimeter in diameter);
- distribution pipes and valves to bleed air from heating system;
- fittings for connecting pipes and all hydraulic mechanisms;
- collector or several collectors (in wall box, with supply and return pipelines and a control mechanism);
- shut-off valves that connect pipelines to the collector;
- thermal insulation and waterproofing materials, reinforcing mesh, special damper tape;
- additionally - self-leveling building mixtures or building materials replacing them and means for leveling the subfloor.
Preparing and leveling the floor
Laying a water floor heating system requires careful preparation of the base. First, you will have to completely dismantle the old floor screed to the base and level the floor horizontally. After dismantling the screed, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of debris, particles of old screed, dust, dirt, and deposits.
The cleaned base of the floor must be covered with a thermal insulation and then a waterproofing layer. After necessary manipulations, a damper tape must be secured around the entire perimeter, then laid according to the lines passing between the contours of the pipes.
Insulation is necessary to prevent downward heat transfer. Foamed polyethylene (penofol) covered with foil is best suited. If there is a heated room on the floor below, any insulation will do, the most reliable is polystyrene foam in sheets. Its thickness is approximately 20-50 mm. If you insulate the floor on the ground floor, which is located on the ground or above a cold basement, you will have to resort to a mound of expanded clay, and choose thicker sheets of expanded polystyrene, approximately 50 - 100 mm.
Modern building materials offer special insulation materials that have special channels for pipes. They are more expensive, but more reliable and less troublesome during installation. When the insulation is laid on the floor, a reinforcing mesh must be laid on top. In this way, it will be possible to secure a new, still damp, layer of screed covering the entire pipe system.
In addition, it is convenient to attach the hydraulic floor pipe to the mesh using plastic ties. This method is more convenient than a design consisting of many fastening strips and clips.
Collector - its selection and installation
Before you begin installation, you need to install the collector. It is installed after contour calculations.
The selection of a collector (or several collectors) is made after calculating the number of circuits. When choosing a collector, you need to decide in advance how many pins are needed to connect the circuits to it. In addition, the device must have a drainage outlet for waste water and an air vent valve.
The purpose of the collector is to distribute flows hot water, as well as adjusting, turning on and off the heating hydraulic system.
When choosing a collector, you should not save money. The simplest, cheapest, collector has only shut-off valves, and this makes the operation of heated floors inconvenient. Manifolds with built-in control valves are, of course, an order of magnitude more expensive. But by regulating the water flow in the rooms, in each hydraulic loop, as well as the temperature of a particular room, you can save much more.
If we are talking about an industrial building, a large office, or a similar type of premises, then the ideal option would be a manifold with pre-mixers, as well as with special servos. What are mixers needed for? They will allow you to regulate the temperature of the water supplied to the pipes, while mixing hot water with already cooled water.
Of course, collectors of such a technical level will “eat up” the bulk of the funds that will have to be spent on installing a water floor. Of course, in ordinary apartment or a private house, where the loads are constant and one operating mode of the system is sufficient, you can get by with simple-type collectors.
The collector is placed in a special box and mounted on the wall. Under the box should be empty; here it will be necessary to supply circuit pipes from all rooms. The cabinet, for interior aesthetic reasons, can be painlessly “sunk” in a wall or in a niche; its width is 12 cm.
An important rule: the pipes must be lower than the box with the collector. This is done for free air outlet.
When putting the entire system together, it is important to follow the instructions that accompany the manifold. And only after the box with the collector is installed can pipe laying begin.
How to correctly calculate and distribute water floor pipes?
The first step is to calculate the exact route for laying the pipes. It is best to order an estimate for laying a water floor to be calculated by a specialist estimator or done using specialized computer calculation programs. It is difficult to calculate manually, and an error in the calculations will be expensive and will cost a pretty penny when reworked.
The consequences of incorrect calculations, for example, can be undesirable effects: insufficient water circulation inside the pipes, heat leakage to separate areas floor, uneven heating of the room, alternation of cold and hot areas of the floor (the so-called “thermal zebra”).
The most important rule when calculating: if the heated floor is installed in several rooms, then the total length of the pipe is calculated separately for each.
What parameters need to be taken into account in the calculations?
- Area of premises.
- The material from which the walls and ceilings are made.
- Availability of thermal insulation, its quality.
- Heating boiler power.
- The diameter of the pipes and the material from which they are made.
Based on these parameters, it is possible to calculate the length of the pipe and the distance between its segments during installation (“step”) so that heat transfer is optimal. The step is usually 10-30 cm. The higher the heat loss in the room, the narrower the step should be (10-15 cm). If the room does not lose heat, there are no cold walls, huge windows, balconies, then the step, accordingly, can be made wider - 30 cm.
Pipe distribution
When distributing pipes, it is necessary to create a laying route. Passing through the pipes, the water heated in the boiler cools, and this circumstance must be taken into account when determining the route for laying the pipe circuits. You should remember several rules, the violation of which can later affect the quality of heating and the inconvenience of operating the entire heating system. What are these rules?
Heating boiler and pump
The main thing to consider when choosing a water heating boiler for a warm hydrofloor is power. It must correspond to the sum of the powers of all sectors of the floor, plus there must be a power reserve of 20% (minimum 15%, but not less).
To circulate water, you need a pump. Modern boilers are designed in such a way that the pump is included with the boiler and is built into the boiler. One pump is enough for 100-120 sq. m. If the area is larger, you will need an additional one (one or more). Additional pumps require separate manifold cabinets.
The boiler has an inlet/outlet for water. Shut-off valves are installed at the inlet/outlet. They are necessary to turn off the boiler in case of minor breakdowns or stop the boiler for preventive purposes, so as not to completely drain the water from the entire system.
If there are several manifold cabinets, you will need a splitter for the central supply so that the water is distributed across hydraulic system evenly, and narrowing adapters.
Pipe installation and screed
To lay a water floor, you will need fastening profiles with sockets that are easy to follow, which will allow you to fix and secure the pipes. The fastening profiles are screwed to the base of the floor using dowels and corresponding screws.
The pipes must then be pressed against the reinforcing mesh and secured with a plastic tie. Do not tighten or squeeze the soft pipe; the loop should be more or less free. The pipes to be laid must be bent in necessary places gently, carefully, but do not squeeze. Especially it concerns polyethylene pipes, vulnerable to deformation processes.
If, when pinched, a White spot or strip, the material cannot be used, it is deformed, and during operation a crease or stretching may form. A damaged pipe is discarded and cannot be installed in a water heating system to avoid bursting and leakage.
After the floors are laid, the ends of the pipes are connected to the collector. If necessary, pipes are laid through walls (not load-bearing ones only). Then a thermal insulation layer (foamed polyethylene) is wound around the pipe. Convenient for connecting pipes is the so-called Eurocone system, and also, as an option, a compression fitting.
So, after installing the system, you need to check its operation under high pressure. The test takes place when water is supplied (pressure 6 bar), the test period is 24 hours. System testing occurs ideally cold water and warmed up. During both cold and hot crimping, care must be taken to ensure that all elements of the system are in working order, functioning properly, and that the pressure does not drop by more than 1.5 barv.
After making sure that there are no failures, leaks, or pipe expansions in the system, you can complete the process of laying a water-heated floor by pouring screed over the pipes.
It should be noted that when using a screed intended for tiles on top of a heated floor, the thickness of the fill should be within 3 - 5 cm. Under laminate or similar coating the screed is made thinner.
Filling must be done with the water heating system running and under pressure. Finally, after pouring the screed, you need to be patient and wait at least 28-30 days. And only after this period has passed, you can continue the repairs - work on the flooring.
Traditional radiators, for many years considered the only possible source of heat, are gradually giving way to systems of warm floors and ceilings. Many people experience innovative methods and are very satisfied. However, heated floors can hardly be called an innovation. They have proven themselves well and become a fairly common heating method. Such systems can run on electricity or use hot water energy. According to experts, a water heated floor is considered the most effective and practical to assemble with your own hands, but it is quite possible to assemble it if desired.
Elements of such a heating system
The operating principle of a water heated floor is quite simple. Under the flooring there are pipelines through which hot water circulates. It gives off its heat to the floor, thereby heating the room. The system includes the following elements:
- water heating boiler;
- water injection pump, if it is not included in the heating device;
- ball valves located at the boiler inlet;
- pipes for distribution and for laying over the entire surface of the floor;
- a collector together with a system for regulating and adjusting the operation of a heated floor;
- fittings for connecting the collector to the pipeline and laying the main route.
This is what it looks like:
The design of a water heated floor is quite simple. It necessarily includes a heating boiler, a collector, a circulation pump and a pipeline filled with coolant
Unit #1 - water heating boiler
The boiler selected for installation must have sufficient power to cope with the heating of the coolant during peak operation of the circuits. In addition, it should have a small power reserve. Approximately, this value should be the total power of all maintained heated floors, increased by 15-20%. In addition, a circulation pump is needed. Most often, it is already included in most boiler models. Additional device may only be needed if the area of the heated room is more than 120-150 square meters. m. In case of preventive maintenance or repair of the boiler without draining water from the entire system, shut-off valves are installed at the outlet and inlet of the heating device.
Unit #2 - collector
The collector is a device responsible for distributing hot water through heating circuits, as well as setting up and adjusting heated floors. The device must have a sufficient number of terminals to connect all circuits to them. Most simple models are equipped with shut-off valves only. They are extremely cheap, but do not provide even a minimal opportunity to customize the system. Devices with control valves allow you to adjust the water flow for each circuit, which allows you to adjust the warm floor for the most uniform heating of the premises.
The manifold of any model must be equipped with a drain outlet and a special air vent valve. The most convenient to use are devices with servo drives on valves, equipped with pre-mixers that mix the heated water supplied to the system with the cooled water returning and thereby regulate its temperature. Such a device fully automates the functioning of a heated floor, but its cost is very high.
Manifold with servomotors on valves and pre-mixer. Necessary system adjustments are made automatically
Unit #3 - pipes for the system
Most often, pipes are used for laying water-heated floors:
- Polypropylene. The preferred option is fiberglass reinforced, which reduces the rate of linear expansion when heated.
- Made from cross-linked polyethylene.
- Metal-plastic.
Regardless of the material, the parts must be marked “for heating”, withstand a pressure of 10 bar and a temperature of up to 95C. Pipe diameter is 16-20 mm.
How can water floors be installed?
Warm water floors can be laid in different ways - by laying and using concreting. Let's take a closer look at each of them.
Concreting. The pipes through which the coolant circulates are laid as required on the prepared base and filled with concrete screed. The main disadvantages: labor-intensive “wet” work, the heavy weight of the system and the complexity of its dismantling.
Layered method. It involves laying pipes in a specially assembled deck. It can consist of plastic modules or wooden blocks with grooves prepared in them for installing pipes. Wooden mounting modules can also be found on sale. Main disadvantage– the system warms up longer than a concrete one.
What needs to be done before installation?
Proper installation of a warm water floor requires careful preparatory work. During their course, all the little things must be taken into account, on which the effective functioning of the structure will subsequently depend:
- It is best to entrust the design of the future system to specialists, since it is quite difficult to make independent calculations. It will be necessary to determine the length of the pipe, the pitch of its installation and the power of the heating circuit, if there are several of them, then for each separately. In this case, many nuances and parameters are taken into account. Exist special programs calculations that many people use. However, you need to understand that a flaw in the calculations will lead to a decrease in efficiency or simply the impossibility of functioning of the entire system.
- Equipment for heated floors must be of high quality, manufactured and purchased from a reliable company that provides good guarantees. It will be cheaper to pay for a quality product than to constantly shell out decent sums for expensive and time-consuming repairs.
- To minimize the thermal load on the screed and prevent its cracking, the system should be divided into sections of no more than 40 square meters. m.
- The base for heated floors must be carefully prepared. It must be clean and level; differences of more than 5 mm are not allowed.
- To prevent heat loss, a heat-insulating layer with a height of 3 to 15 cm, depending on the operating temperature of the coolant, must be spread on the prepared base. It could be special heat insulating materials or mats designed for warm water floors. The latter can be equipped with pipe mounts, so-called bosses, which is very convenient.
A damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room and between the installation areas, which can compensate for temperature fluctuations of the screed.
Mats with bosses designed for water heated floors are very comfortable. They not only act as a heat insulator, but also secure the pipes in place
When drawing up a laying scheme, you should avoid large quantity pipe joints, which carry the potential danger of leaks under the floor. It is best to arrange the safest option, where connections are present only at the outlet and inlet of the collector. In this case, the length of the solid pipe should not be more than 90 m, otherwise the temperature of the circulating coolant may drop.
Laying a heated water floor in a screed
Work begins with determining the installation location of the collector, which is most often “hidden” in a special cabinet. It is usually mounted on the wall. The device should be placed so that the length of pipes from each of the heated rooms is approximately the same. You can bring the collector closer to the largest contours. The main thing is that it is installed above the level of the heated floor, without venting pipes upward, otherwise there may be problems in the air exhaust system.
The next stage is marking the prepared base, taking into account the division into sectors of 40 square meters. m. Then a thermal insulation layer and damper tape are laid. Next, the reinforcing mesh is laid on which the pipes will subsequently be attached. If special mats are chosen as thermal insulation, the mesh will not be needed. You can start laying out the pipeline. It can be done in different ways: snake, spiral, loops, etc. The laying step varies from 10 to 40 cm, and the distance from the wall to the nearest pipe cannot be less than 8 cm.
The pipes are secured to the reinforcing mesh using plastic clamps. It is important not to pinch the part; it should be in a loose loop, otherwise, under the influence of heat, the pipe will expand and may become deformed in the area of tight pressing. The fastening clamps are installed in 1 m increments. You must work with the pipe very carefully. Most often it is supplied in the form of a coil. Pulling it out from there one by one is unacceptable. You should gradually, as it is laid, unwind the pipe, placing and securing the element on the floor.
There are several options for laying pipes for heated floors. The most common: spiral, snake, loops, double snail
Rotations of the part are performed very carefully, observing the minimum bend radius requirements. Typically it is about five pipe diameters. If you squeeze the product, a whitish crease area will form. It indicates a sharp stretching of the fragment and loss of its strength characteristics, which leads to an increased risk of pipe rupture. It is not recommended to install a part with such a defect in a heated floor system. The damaged fragment must be replaced, which leads to the appearance of unnecessary joints in the pipeline, and this is also undesirable.
The laid pipes must be connected to the collector. For this purpose, special compression fittings or Eurocone systems are used. The beginning of the pipe of each heating circuit is connected to the supply outlet of the manifold, thus the number of outlets and circuits must match. The end of the pipeline is connected to the return manifold. If the pipe is laid near an expansion joint, a corrugated tube must be put on it.
Upon completion of installation, the system must be checked. To do this, water is poured into the pipeline and a pressure of 5-6 bar is applied throughout the day. After which a careful inspection is carried out to identify possible expansions on the pipes or leaks. More details in the video:
If the test run was successful, proceed to pouring the screed. It should only be carried out with water-filled pipes with operating pressure in them. After pouring, the screed will dry completely no earlier than after 28 days. After this time, installation work can begin flooring.
Before you start pouring the screed, the pipes are attached to the reinforcing mesh using special plastic clamps that prevent the elements from moving
There are some nuances regarding the formation of screeds over water warm floors. They depend on the type of flooring that will be laid on top of it. If you plan to install tiles, the screed should be 3-5 cm high or the distribution of pipes should have intervals of about 10-15 cm. Otherwise, according to the principle of heat distribution, there is a danger of a “thermal zebra” appearing, which can be clearly felt by the foot. But under laminate or linoleum it is better to lay a thinner screed. In this case, to strengthen the structure, another reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the heated floor, which will also reduce the thermal path to the surface of the coating.
You can find many recommendations on how to make warm water floors yourself. However, you need to clearly understand that this is a complex and responsible undertaking. A pipeline laid in a screed is practically beyond repair, and if installation or design errors are discovered at this stage, it will be extremely difficult to correct them. That is why the work should be approached very responsibly, then the new heated floor will only delight you with its long and effective operation.
The most economical are water heated floors, where hot water acts as a coolant. This is really very convenient, inexpensive at the operating stage, and allows you to quickly and fairly evenly heat the entire room. But preliminary preparation takes much longer than installing electric heated floors.
There are also restrictions on premises - installation is only possible in a new building or private houses, where the height of the ceilings can be adjusted during the construction stage. However, given the high efficiency and minimum expenses for operation, many tend to choose just such a design. In turn, our task is to tell you how to properly make a warm water floor and what needs to be taken into account.
Principle of operation
The water underfloor heating system is quite simple. The design is a circuit consisting of two tubes through which coolant circulates. Heating of water - namely, it acts as a coolant - is carried out by a boiler, where it enters in a cooled state and leaves in a heated state.
As soon as the room temperature reaches the set value, a signal is sent to the thermostat, after which the system stops operation. Accordingly, when the temperature drops, the sensor signal is triggered and circulation resumes.
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This is the essence of how water underfloor heating works. It would seem that it couldn’t be simpler, but there are a number of nuances that must be taken into account during installation. The first concerns the need to prepare the floor and pour the concrete screed. In total, this amounts to 10-15 cm, due to which the height of the ceilings is reduced. Into premises with standard height 230 cm is quite a significant length. The second is the approval stage. IN apartment buildings water underfloor heating “crashes” into the overall system, which is unacceptable, since the pressure will drop throughout the riser. Installation of warm water floors is possible only if there is an autonomous heating system. These are either private houses or apartments in new buildings.
Installation features
To figure out how to properly make a water-heated floor, you need to consider main feature- during circulation, the temperature of the coolant gradually decreases, accordingly, it is necessary to accurately determine the length, correctly connect it with sensors and the boiler so that the floor warms up evenly and the temperature in the room is comfortable.
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Even though there are different variants laying the floor system, the most popular of them is a concrete screed, which is poured into the laid pipes. This method is relatively inexpensive compared to others, but very practical and reliable.
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Concrete laying method in section
The laying method is often practiced, when instead of cement they use wooden slats or polystyrene mats. This method also has a right to exist, since it requires much less time, takes up only 5-7 cm along with the pipes, and in the event of an accident it is much easier to disassemble and repair the damaged area.
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Laying method
How to lay pipes correctly
Unlike the heating cable, the pipes through which the coolant circulates are highly heat resistant. But even in this case, they do not need to be connected to each other or overlapped when laying. The pipe is laid in coils in a certain sequence, bypassing the places where furniture and/or large household appliances will be placed.
Sharp bends and kinks of the pipe are not allowed. The coolant must move freely through the system.
For laying pipes, a reinforcing mesh with a side of 10-15 cm is used, which is laid in advance on the floor and secured with mortgages or clips. The pipe is connected to the fittings, which ensures its immobility. Minimum distance between pipes - 30 cm. If the pitch is exceeded, cold areas will appear on the floor; reduce it - the floor will be too hot.
There are various installation methods, but the most popular of them are as follows (see picture)
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"Snake" is the most the hard way laying, which is practiced mainly for large rooms and those where it is necessary to level adjacent areas. For a beginner, such a task will be overwhelming; it is better to choose the spiral method (snail), which is easier to install and allows you to “capture” all zones.
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Required materials and tools
Before laying a heated floor with a concrete screed, you will need to purchase following materials:
- collector cabinet;
- water collector;
- fastening elements - clamps, clips, swivel arms, staples, etc.;
- reinforcing mesh - according to the area of the room;
- beacons for leveling the surface;
- mixture for filling (if a ready-made composition is used);
- concrete and cement, if the screed will be prepared independently.
The beacon profile helps to track the straightness of the floor. To ensure that it can be exposed, use a quick-setting plaster like Volma.
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Basic elements of a floor water system
VIDEO: How to make a water-heated floor with a concrete screed
For the flat method you will need:
- metal plastic pipes required length (calculate according to the scheme + 10% for defects);
- collector cabinet;
- water collector;
- splitter with automatic air exhaust and drain tap;
- waterproofing film- by area of the room;
- foil or polystyrene thermal insulation - according to the area of the room + overlap on the walls by 10 cm;
- self-adhesive damper tape;
- fastening elements - clamps, clips, swivel arms, staples, etc.;
- plates with grooves for distribution plates;
- connection profile;
- drywall according to the area of the room.
If the water heated floor is laid on wooden slats, you must purchase chipboards with special channels for pipes.
Example of installation in a wooden floor
VIDEO: Procedure for laying wood floors
What coatings are compatible with water underfloor heating
In this case we're talking about not about the aesthetic side of the issue, but the practical one. You need to choose a material that will effectively transfer heat, prevent mechanical damage to the pipe and not deform during the heating/cooling process of the floor.
Undoubtedly, the best option is considered the so-called “cold” material - ceramic tile, porcelain stoneware, self-leveling floors, stone. All have an excellent thermal conductivity coefficient and high strength, so that you can safely install water underfloor heating.
Ceramic tiles are most often used in the kitchen and bathroom, self-leveling floors - in the kitchen and living room, stone and porcelain tiles - in open terraces. In all other rooms, mainly warm material is used, which even without underfloor heating is comfortable warmth. This is laminate, parquet, less often linoleum or carpet. Unlike ceramics, warm materials much higher inertia, due to which they heat up faster and retain heat longer.
Parquet is extremely rarely used in combination with heated floors - a sharp temperature change has an extremely negative effect on the quality of even high-grade wood. Over time, the parquet delaminates, dries out, and cracks appear on it. For parquet, traditional air heating is more preferable.
VIDEO: What are the common mistakes in installing water-heated floors in a private home?
To install a water floor, it is not at all necessary to have extensive experience working with water supply systems or to buy special equipment. Let's figure out how to connect the system yourself.
Water heated floor installation
Water heated floor is not a complex system, which consists of the following elements:
- Flexible plastic pipes. They are products through which coolant moves.
- Pump. It is needed to ensure that water circulates continuously in the system.
- Heat source. Water that comes from centralized system water supply - cold. It must be heated before entering the engineering system. As a rule, a gas boiler is used for this purpose, to which heated floors are connected.
- Thermostatic mixer. It is designed to support the system desired temperature.
- . This element is needed to ensure that the system is adjustable.
The only exceptions are those living spaces that have an autonomous heating system. Regardless of whether the apartment has heating system or not, you should contact the housing and communal services department and find out whether it is possible to install a warm water floor. If this is possible, the housing and communal services employee will tell you what is needed for this.
Flexible pipes through which the coolant moves are covered with screed after installation. Accordingly, repair work is quite problematic. First of all, you will have to break the screed. All further actions equivalent to installing the system. Therefore, you should choose high-quality pipes.
Each circuit (and their number depends on the square footage of the room) must consist of a solid pipe. Therefore, two types of pipes are used for water floors: metal-plastic and products made of cross-linked polyethylene.
Advantages and disadvantages of a water system
Before moving on to the specifics of installation work, let’s consider what advantages this engineering system has and what disadvantages it has.
The advantages of a water floor are as follows:
- Installation work does not require the purchase of special equipment or tools. Consequently, additional costs during installation are reduced to zero.
- A water floor can be installed under any decorative floor covering. It is compatible even with such delicate coatings as laminate.
- This system is economical.
- Warm water floors can be used as the main and only source of heat. This is especially true for rooms in which the outer walls are completely glazed. Installed traditional radiators near windows will spoil the appearance of the room.
- The operation of the system does not depend on the availability of a source of electricity.
- If the integrity of the pipe is compromised, there is a risk of flooding.
- Repair work is fraught with certain difficulties.
- Due to the fact that the pipes are in a screed, there is no way to monitor their condition.
- It is not always possible to obtain permission to install this equipment.
Main types of warm water floors
There are two installation methods engineering system. Based on the chosen method, there are two types of water floors: concrete and flooring.
Most often, the circuit through which the coolant flows is filled with a concrete screed. Floors installed in this way are called concrete. They have a number of disadvantages. It takes quite a long time for the screed to dry. For installation finishing coating You can start only after it is completely dry. It may take 20-28 days.
If you need to complete the installation in a short time, then this method is not suitable. You can speed up the drying process of the screed if you use mixtures designed for working with water floors. Mixing the solution and pouring it are quite labor-intensive processes.
If you need to fix the leak, the screed will have to be completely dismantled. After graduation repair work the floor needs to be re-grouted. This is not very convenient and entails considerable financial costs.
In defense this method installation, we can say that the concrete screed conducts heat quite well. Accordingly, the system will work efficiently and heat loss will be minimal.
Installing a water floor using the floor method involves the use of ready-made materials that are laid on top of the coolant. An aluminum plate is laid under the floor covering, which reflects the heat received from the coolant.
This installation method is used much less frequently than concrete. As a rule, builders use it when the floor slabs are weak and the load on them cannot be significantly increased.
It should be noted that when installing an engineering system in this way, the floor height does not increase significantly. Therefore, in rooms with low ceilings, laying can also be done using the floor method. Well, the last argument in favor of the laying method is the absence of wet work.
When making a choice between concrete and floor heating, you need to know that the screed will cool much longer than the materials used when laying it using the floor method. Concrete heated floors cool for 40-48 hours. Flooring is almost instantaneous.
Installation technology for water heated floors
The installation technology can be divided into several stages. The first is preparatory. You not only need to stock up on everything necessary materials, but also make calculations. Next comes the preparation of the rough foundation, installation of the cabinet for the collector and laying out the circuits. And finally, connecting the system.
Rules for calculating a water floor
Many people mistakenly believe that the installation of a water floor should begin with the purchase of pipes and other building materials. But before you go to the store, you need to do the calculations. After all, the contour of the heated floor must be solid. Therefore, you need to know exactly the length of the contour.
It directly depends on the square footage of the room. Experts recommend installing water floors in those rooms whose area does not exceed 40 m2. If the figure is 50-60 m2, it is advisable to divide the room into several zones and lay several circuits. In this case, you need to divide the room into zones so that all the contours are approximately the same length. Otherwise, the floor temperature in different places will be different.
In addition to the quadrature, the length of the pipe should be taken into account. Experts agree that one contour should not be longer than 60 meters. Otherwise, the coolant at the outlet will have a temperature significantly lower than at the inlet. Accordingly, the floor covering will warm up unevenly.
Drawing up a scheme for laying a water-heated floor
After completing the calculations, you should draw a drawing. The water floor design must comply as much as possible with all standards and requirements. Particular care must be taken to develop it for a room that has been divided into several sectors. Contours located in different sectors should not have points of contact.
The laid pipes must be at a certain distance from each other. This distance is called "step". The step size can vary from 10 to 30 cm. If the laying step exceeds 30 cm, the system will become ineffective. But there is no point in laying the coolant in increments of less than 10 cm. This will not make it work more efficiently. And the length of the contour will increase. In this case, the step should be the same over the entire surface of the room.
Also, when drawing up a diagram, it is worth considering that the pipes cannot be placed close to the walls. There should be at least 10 cm of free space. Near external walls, you can reduce the laying step. This measure is explained by the fact that heat disappears much faster here.
As for the pipe laying scheme, today there are two options: snail and snake. To minimize hydraulic losses, it is advisable to choose a volute installation. However, in rooms with complex geometry it is not always possible to use this method. In this case, the pipes have to be laid in a snake. As for the size of the room, for large rooms A snail is more suitable, and for small ones a snake is more suitable.
To draw a diagram of a warm water floor, you must first depict the room on paper. Next, draw lines parallel to the walls. The distance between them should be equal to the laying step. The number of lines must be in pairs. Thus, the diagram should result in a grid. Based on these features, it will be quite simple to draw a diagram for installing the coolant.
Preparing the base for installing a water floor
First of all, you need to remove dirt and level the rough base. It is leveled so that the thickness of the subsequently laid screed is the same. If its thickness is various places the rooms will be different, it will not be possible to achieve uniform heating of the floor.
Then it is necessary to lay waterproofing on the rough base. This is done so that moisture that is present in the lower levels does not enter the system. After laying the waterproofing layer, damper tape, 10-15 cm thick, is glued to the walls of the room
Next you need to lay the insulation. This is done to minimize heat loss.
When laying thermal insulation material it is necessary to take into account the number of floors of the room. If it is on the ground floor, and below it is located cold basement, then the thickness of such a layer should be 23-25 cm. If the room is located on the 2nd, 3rd, etc. floor, then you can limit the thickness of the layer to 3-5 cm.
Installation of a manifold cabinet
The collector is the part of the engineering system that makes it adjustable. You can find collectors on the market, the cost of which is quite low. However, after installing such an element, the system becomes practically unregulated, since cheap devices have nothing but shut-off valve. More expensive equipment is equipped with adjustable valves. This option is worth stopping at.
To make the system as adjustable as possible, it is recommended to purchase manifolds with valves equipped with servo drives and pre-mixers.
In addition, you need to buy a cabinet for the collector. In it, the pipes into which the coolant flows will be connected to the heating system of the room. Also in the manifold cabinet there are adjustment elements. Therefore, it should always be freely accessible.
When choosing a location for the manifold cabinet, you should take into account that the pipes of each circuit must approach it. It is mounted on the wall. Therefore, in the selected location it is necessary to make a recess, the dimensions of which correspond to the manifold cabinet.
Laying pipes for water heated floors
According to the diagram, pipes need to be laid. To prevent them from moving during installation, you can first lay a reinforcing mesh on the floor. It is convenient to attach the circuit to it using a wire.
There is no need to tighten the wire too tightly. Otherwise, the pipes may become deformed during operation. And in places of deformation, the risk of integrity violation increases. But you can do without reinforcing mesh. The pipes are attached to the thermal insulation using special clips and clamps.
One end of the pipe is inserted into the manifold cabinet. The rest of the contour is laid according to the diagram. After installing the circuit, the second end is inserted into the manifold cabinet, where it is subsequently connected to the return manifold.
When laying pipes, it is necessary to ensure that no kinks are formed, which can be identified by whitish stripes at the bend. The bending radius should not exceed the pipe diameter multiplied by 5.
Connecting the water floor system
Each circuit is closed. Water is supplied from the boiler to the system, which, passing through the circuit, gives off heat. The cooled water returns to the boiler, heats up there and again enters the system. To ensure continuous movement of liquid, there is a circulation pump.
Shut-off valves must be installed at both ends of the pipe. If this is not done, then if necessary, it will not be possible to stop the water supply to the system. To ensure a reliable connection between the pipe and the valve, use compression fittings.
Then you should connect the collector, which it is advisable to equip with a splitter with a drain valve and an air vent. To make your work easier, you can buy an already assembled manifold along with a manifold cabinet.
The DIY water floor is almost ready. All that remains is to check the functionality of the system and fill it with screed. When checking, water is released under pressure that slightly exceeds the working pressure. If the system is functioning normally, then proceed to laying the screed. IN construction stores You can find solutions that are designed for heated floors.
How to make a water heated floor - watch the video:
To successfully install a water floor, you need to correctly calculate the length of the pipes and draw up a diagram. All subsequent actions require accuracy. You need to act especially carefully at the stage of connecting the system.
What is a water heated floor? This is a capital liquid heating system, in which the air in the room is heated through the use of a floor structure with a system of pipes through which the coolant circulates. The heated floor system is connected to a local (gas boiler) or central heating system.
Water floor system heating can be used as the main heating of the house (an independent source of heating) or as an additional one. Depending on the design and heating method, there are different types underfloor heating: water and (cable, rod,).
Water-heated floor heating is a durable and economical heating system, but its installation is associated with significant difficulties and costs. Therefore, installation of underfloor heating systems is entrusted to professionals. For those who have decided to make a water heated floor with their own hands, we will tell you what stages this process consists of and pay attention to the main subtleties of design and installation.
Water heated floor - advantages and disadvantages
Pros:
- effective heat redistribution, ensuring uniform heating of the entire room;
- ensuring natural air circulation;
- compatibility of heated floors with any type of floor covering (provided that it conducts heat well: tiles, laminate, natural stone);
- possibility to install autonomous system(individual heating) or connect to the central heating main;
- reduction in heating costs by 20-40% (compared to radiator);
- independence from power supply (and power outages);
- the ability to regulate the temperature in individual rooms and at any time of the day;
- minimal costs for self-installation;
- the appearance of the room is improved due to the absence of radiators and visible pipes of the heating system;
Minuses:
- inertia of the system. The heating time of the room is 4-6 hours (depending on the volume, area);
- design complexity in the case of using underfloor heating as the only source of room heating;
- high installation cost;
- difficult to regulate temperature regime in case of connection to the central heating main;
- reducing the height of the room by raising the floor by 100-120 mm;
- the use of floor coverings such as carpet, carpet or carpet is excluded;
- the possibility of leakage (in an apartment - flooding of neighbors below, in a private house - basement);
- low maintainability of the pipe system;
Water heated floor - DIY installation
Step-by-step instructions for installing water floor heating include four sequential steps:
- Develop yourself, download a ready-made standard or order individual project warm water floor. At this stage, it is recommended to involve a specialist to eliminate errors.
- Select equipment and building materials.
- Install the underfloor heating system correctly.
- Check and launch the water heated floor for the first time.
- Finishing, laying flooring (tiles, laminate, linoleum).
Stage 1 - designing a heated floor
Before you begin drawing up a project, you need to make sure that there are no unavoidable obstacles to installing the system indoors. These may include:
- room height. The thickness of the water-heated floor (installed system) is 100-120 mm. This results in the floor being raised to the appropriate height;
- door installation location. Due to the installation of the system, the floor level rises. It is necessary to maintain the height of the doorway at 2200 mm (standard door and installation gaps) or evaluate the possibility of increasing the doorway or estimate how much it will cost to make a custom door;
- window orientation. Windows located to the north or northwest, or oriented to the windy side, or having big size, can lead to the fact that the system power will need to be increased to compensate for heat loss through the external circuit and ensure the desired room temperature;
Note. If the calculated heat losses are more than 100 W/m2. It is not practical to install a water heating system.
- load-bearing capacity of beams or floor slabs. Taking into account the weight of the concrete screed, the ability of the floor slabs or beams to support the weight of the water heated floor system should be assessed. Old floors are not yet a reason to abandon the system as a whole, but it is a reason to look into a water-based floor.
In view of the requirements listed above, water-heated floors in a private house have become more widespread than in apartments in high-rise buildings.
If there are no obstacles to the device, you can begin designing.
Calculation of water heated floor
The required amount of material is calculated depending on the parameters of the heated room and technical characteristics components of equipment and materials. The calculation of a warm water floor is made based on the following data:
- floor area and room height;
- material of walls and ceilings;
- degree and type of thermal insulation;
- type of flooring;
- pipe material and diameter;
- power of the heating element (boiler or central);
- desired temperature regime (see table).
Limit (maximum) temperature of the surface of a heated floor for premises for various purposes
After this, a sketch (diagram, drawing) is made, reflecting the installation location of the main equipment, the method and step of pipe placement.
How to make a water heated floor correctly
Be sure to pay attention (device features):
- Floor heating elements cannot be installed in furniture locations, because this can cause them to overheat and dry out;
- It is not recommended to exceed the length of the circuit over 90 m (the limit value depends on the cross-section of the pipe);
Maximum length of the water-heated floor circuit (loop) depending on the pipe diameter used
The deviation is explained by the fact that hydraulic resistance (slowing down the coolant movement) and thermal load are directly dependent on the diameter of the pipe.
Craftsmen consider the optimal length of the circuit to be 50-60 m (with a pipe cross-section of 20 mm). If necessary, it is advisable to install two circuits of the same length. This is due to the fact that during movement through the pipes hottest of the year releases part of the thermal energy, and the floor temperature decreases. The use of short circuits will ensure uniform heating of the floor over the entire area.
Note. The length of the circuit is calculated from the point of exit from the collector, not only at the point of entry into the heated room.
- The pitch for laying underfloor heating pipes is 100-500 mm;
Note. When using a water heated floor as an additional (alternative) heating source, a pipe laying step of 300-500 mm is recommended. In the case of installation of a non-alternative (main) system, the pitch is reduced and amounts to 100-300 mm. If the laying step is exceeded, a “thermal zebra” effect appears, and the difference in the temperature of the floor surface is felt by the foot.
- installing thermostats will avoid overheating and reduce the cost of operating the system.
Water heated floor in the apartment from central heating
Important. Installing a heated floor system in an apartment is associated with a number of difficulties. In particular, it is necessary to submit the project to the housing office or the society of co-owners, as well as the district heating network. After approval of the project, obtain a conclusion on the possibility of installing the system. Typically, installation is permitted only in new houses where there is a separate riser for pumping out hot water (used in case of a breakthrough).
Installation of heated floors in the bathroom is allowed by connecting through the outlet to the coil from the heated towel rail. A permit is not required to heat a small area.
In addition to the installation diagram of the components, the type (type) of the underfloor heating system is selected at the design stage.
- Concrete system. Involves filling pipes with concrete (arrangement of screed);
- Laying system. Involves the use of wood or polystyrene flooring. In this case, there are no “wet” processes and the speed of work increases.
Stage 2 - components for heated floors
A water-heated floor is a complex system of pipes containing a coolant. Therefore, we list what is needed to install a heated floor (system components).
Boiler for warm water floor
The best and most common option in a private house (apartment) is to connect to gas boiler. If the apartment does not individual heating, you can connect to the main line central heating, but the autonomy of the project is lost.
It is also possible to use electric water floors. Their peculiarity is that the heating cable is laid inside the pipe, which guarantees uniform heating of the coolant (water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol) along the entire length of the circuit. The undoubted advantage is the possibility of installation in apartment buildings (since they are not connected to the heating main, which means there is no risk of damage to the mounting unit). But there is also a significant drawback - the high cost of electricity, which is necessary to ensure the functioning (heating) of the system.
The design power of the boiler should be 15-20% higher than the total power of all floors in the room.
Circulation pump for heated floors
Necessary to ensure the movement of coolant in the system. The pump built into the boiler will not cope with the load if the area of the house exceeds 100 square meters.
Pipes for warm water floors
- copper pipes according to experts, they are considered an ideal option - durable, different high heat transfer, but their cost will significantly increase the installation budget;
- metal-plastic pipes leading in terms of price/quality ratio. Their composition eliminates the appearance of corrosion and accumulation, which leaves the diameter of the pipe flow section unchanged. Besides, metal-plastic pipes They are light in weight, bend easily and have a high temperature limit.
- polypropylene pipes They are attracted by the low price, but there is a high probability of buying a low-quality product.
- PEX pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are reliable, but require rigid fastening, because when heated, they straighten. Users recommend reducing the mounting step of the holders when using PEX pipes by 2-3 times.
The optimal cross-section is 16-20 mm. Pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. 5-6 m.p. (with a step of 200 mm).
Note. According to reviews, users advise using only well-known brands (Uponor, Rehau).
Insulation for warm water floors
The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:
- foil polyethylene (with a minimum design thickness of the heated floor);
- expanded polystyrene. Users recommend using ready-made thermal insulation mats that have protrusions for laying pipes with a pitch of 50x50 mm;
- mineral wool. Users speak poorly of wool when installing a concrete system due to the ability of mineral wool to absorb some of the moisture from the solution.
Advice. Thermal insulation layer(thickness of insulation for a heated floor) above the basement, in the basement, on the first floor in a private house, should be thicker. In addition, the higher the expected coolant temperature, the thicker the thermal insulation layer needs to be made.
Heat consumption meter
Installing a heat meter in an apartment is relevant when obtaining permission to install a water-heated floor in an apartment building.
Manifold cabinet
Installed for installation of adjusting elements and joining of circuit pipes with the heat supply main.
Reinforcing mesh for heated floors
Users have different opinions regarding the installation of reinforced stacks. In general, the reinforcement mesh will further strengthen concrete screed after laying the pipe system.
Components for the screed device
- concrete (cement, sand, water);
- damper tape 100-150 mm wide;
- fasteners for fixing pipes.
Stage 3 - installation of a warm water floor with your own hands
1. Installation of the manifold cabinet
Installation of the system begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet, the mandatory elements of which are (manifold unit): a manifold, a pump, an air vent valve and a drain outlet. The dimensions of the collector depend on its configuration. It is recommended to install the collector at an equal distance from all circuits. If it is impossible to follow this recommendation, near the longest of the contours.
Important. When installing the collector, free space is provided for bending pipes. In this case, it is not allowed to install pipes from above, only from below. This will ensure normal coolant movement. Installing a shut-off valve between the piping system and the collector will simplify maintenance of the system if necessary (prevention, draining, repair).
2. Preparing the base for heated floors
The surface is cleared of debris, differences in floor heights (slopes, elevations) are eliminated.
Thermal insulation material is laid on the prepared surface, reducing heat loss through the floor. Next, a waterproofing film is covered. Laying a damper tape eliminates the thermal expansion of the concrete screed.
Floors under water-heated floors must be leveled to ensure equal screed thickness (the key to uniform heat distribution over the surface)
3. Laying pipes for heated floors
Installation of water heated floor pipes can be performed using several methods (layout diagrams):
Snail
The pipes are laid around the perimeter of the room, tapering towards the center. It is necessary to lay pipes through a row to ensure the possibility of reverse flow of the coolant and more uniform heat transfer.
The method is used when in view complex configuration rooms need to shift the center of the pipe system, as well as in rooms with an area of more than 40 square meters.
Snake (loop)
In this case, the pipe from the heater runs along the outer wall, then returns back in a wave-like manner. The scheme is suitable for small spaces.
Meander (double snake or combined pattern)
The loops of the snake are arranged in parallel and allow you to organize the movement of warm and cooled coolant through the pipes. This method is good because it allows you to compensate for the cooling of the pipes.
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Advice. Masters advise starting installation from the outer or colder walls of the room.
To perform the layout correctly, it is recommended that a beginner first apply markings to the floor surface. At the time of installation of heated floors in subsequent rooms, installation will be done “by eye”. For installation, only solid pipes or reliable connections are used.
Pipe laying begins by connecting one end to the supply manifold.
You can organize insulation near external walls by changing the order of the pipes, as shown in the diagram.
After laying the pipe on the designated contour, it is fixed with a clamp. Alternatively, you can use dowels and tie the pipe to them using copper wire or lay it on the floor reinforcing mesh and tie the pipe to it to ensure the possibility of thermal expansion of the materials.
The work is simplified by a ribbed polystyrene substrate under a heated water floor, the use of which simultaneously allows for thermal insulation and laying pipes in even rows.
4. Connecting the underfloor heating manifold
After laying the circuit, the free end of the pipe is connected to the return manifold.
5. Pressure testing of water heated floors
Pressure testing of pipes (hydraulic testing), this is the name given to the procedure for checking the quality of installation, because at this stage it is possible to make adjustments to the water heated floor heating system.
Pressure testing involves introducing water into the system under high pressure. The pressure recommended for testing exceeds the calculated operating pressure by 1.5-2 times (at least 0.6 MPa). In the first half hour of pressure testing, it is permissible to reduce the pressure by no more than 10%, in the next 2 - 15% of the initial value. The water temperature remains unchanged. The verification time is a day or more. If no violations are detected and the floor warms up evenly, you can continue work.
6. Screed for heated water floors
For screed can be used:
- any ready-made mixture, the mandatory characteristic of which is the ability to conduct heat well;
- classic concrete (with cement grade of at least M 300) with the addition of a plasticizer (3-5%).
The height of the screed varies in the range of 3-7 mm. The solution is poured when the system is full (filled with coolant) with the pressure specified during pressure testing. Full time concrete hardening - 28 days. For the mixture, the hardening time is determined by the manufacturer.
Note. On the surface of a large area (more than 40 square meters), expansion joints are provided.
Stage 4 - first launch of water-heated floor
After the floor screed has completely hardened (dried), the system is ready to start. It will reach the specified parameters within 2-3 days.
Stage 5 - finishing of the heated floor
The fully finished heated floor is covered with finishing material. Today, the most popular flooring remains tile and laminate.
Water-heated floors under laminate have become widespread. However, the installation of laminate in this case is carried out with some nuances:
- The quality of the laminate must be confirmed by a certificate. After all, when it is heated, it will release into the room harmful substances. Typically, laminate flooring is labeled “Warm wasser”;
- the heat insulator does not fit under the laminate;
- Ventilation of the laminate floor is required. To do this, a gap of 10-15 mm thick is left around the perimeter, which is then covered with a plinth;
- Before laying, the laminate is placed in the room to set the floor temperature. In this case, packages with lamellas should be placed on the floor, and not stacked in one high stack.
As you can see, using laminate as a floor covering does not create any additional difficulties, but experts advise using a water-heated floor under the tiles. This is due to the fact that the laminate has low thermal conductivity (the thicker the lamella, the lower this indicator), and it also contains connectors, the fumes of which may not have the best effect on the health of the residents of the house.
How to make a water heated floor with your own hands - video
Water heated floors will last for a long time if you follow the recommendations for their use, which contain user reviews. The main requirements are as follows:
- a gradual increase in temperature is necessary. You cannot run the system at “maximum” after a period of inactivity (until the floor has completely cooled). Users recommend a stepwise increase - by 4-5 °C per day;
- the temperature of the incoming coolant should not exceed 45 °C;
- It is not recommended to turn the system on/off frequently. This will not result in additional savings;
- you need to ensure optimal humidity in the room. A balanced microclimate will have a beneficial effect on human health.
Conclusion
In addition to installing a warm water floor system inside the house, you can installation work on the street, for example, to install a snow melting and anti-icing system (for heating a pedestrian path, entrance area, porch, stairs, parking lot, etc.).