For finishing the walls and ceilings of attics they use durable materials. It is possible to make the surface of the walls even by using sheets of plasterboard for finishing. Afterwards, arrange the interior of the attic in any style to your taste. Drywall can retain heat indoors better than plastic and other cheap materials. The finish made from this material can withstand low and high temperatures, and it is possible to attach mirrors, wall cabinets and shelves without much difficulty.
Drywall is ideal for finishing different rooms. It's not expensive. You have the opportunity to insulate walls using additional materials, which will be located between the walls and the plasterboard sheathing. Make noise insulation. This material easy to install and does not require special maintenance.
First we carry out preparatory work. The roof must not have any defects and allow water to pass through. Repair the roof if necessary so that in the future you will not be disturbed by water entering the attic. And you didn't have to redo the trim. This will save your time and money.
Check the condition of the beams. They should not be damaged by external factors.
Before installing the finishing, you should soak the walls and ceiling with an antiseptic if the house is built of wooden beams. Then dry the room.
Rafter installation occurs in several stages. This method is common. If the finishing room is small and the distance between the rafters is no more than 75 cm, you do not need to use frameless cladding.
Step-by-step instruction:
- We purchase sheets of drywall;
- We cut the sheets to size;
- We attach the trim with special glue;
- We fix the drywall to the rafters;
- We fix it with glue and self-tapping screws.
Drywall should be 12.5 centimeters thick. If they are thinner, they may be bendable in some places.
The internal corners are reinforced with a perforated corner. Then we take putty and seal the seams and places where the screws are attached to the rafters.
Finishing the attic floor with plasterboard yourself
To decorate the attic, many people use frame method. It is reliable and you have the opportunity to insulate the room using special materials. You do not have to additionally use heating devices in conjunction with heating systems. You can also make acoustic insulation if you live close to the roadway.
Stages of frame installation:
- We take measurements of the room;
- We purchase all the necessary materials and tools;
- We install the sheathing;
- We install frame guides along the perimeter;
- We fasten the racks using metal screws;
- We fix the crossbars;
- Lay out the wiring;
- We put insulation into the cells of the frame.
Then we install the sheathing. We start with the walls. Its markings are transferred to the ceiling and floor. In this case, you should monitor the vertical position of the racks.
Worth remembering: metal guides are fixed at least at three points. The distance between points should be no more than a meter.
The racks are secured using metal screws into the guides of the frame structure. The distance should be 40-50 cm between them. The frequency of the crossbars should correspond to the length of the drywall sheets after cutting. Before covering the attic with plasterboard, it is worth carrying out all the necessary communications - wiring, heating systems. Should be placed in the cells of the frame mineral wool. It is used as insulation. This material does not deteriorate under the influence of moisture and rodents.
If the humidity in the attic is high, it is worth covering the entire structure with a water vapor barrier membrane for greater protection.
Then we cover the attic floor with plasterboard required thickness so that the finish does not bend from impact. Thin sheets are susceptible to swelling during use. Therefore, you should not save on consumables, then you won’t have to change the casing again.
GKL attic cladding
The principle of cladding the attic is similar to the process or concrete.
To do this you need to purchase: plasterboard sheets (gypsum plasterboard), building level and tape measure, hammer drill, self-tapping screws, metal profiles.
Drywall (gypsum board) has a gypsum core. All planes of the sheet, except the end edges, have a cardboard finish. This material has enhanced properties, since it contains special components.
For finishing the attic, plasterboard sheets of the gypsum board type are suitable. They are moisture resistant.
The cladding of the attic floor proceeds in several stages:
- We cut out sheets of drywall;
- We attach them to the profile at a distance of 20-25 cm;
- First we make the cladding with solid sheets;
- Then we install the cut sheets;
- We produce finishing.
Horizontal seams should be offset relative to each other by 1/3 of the sheet width. If this happens during installation, replace the whole sheet with a cut sheet.
You can sheathe the attic floor with your own hands quickly and efficiently. To do this, you need to have all the necessary materials, tools and follow the installation instructions.
Finishing touches on the attic floor
Before finishing, you should complete the main work: seal the seams, hide the heads of the hardware, strengthen the corners, prime and putty the finished plasterboard walls and ceiling.
After puttying, the walls need to be sanded to remove excess putty and make the seams invisible. This way you can achieve perfect flat surface walls Instructions for puttingtying drywall joints are described in the article:.
We prime the surface so that the paint lays easily on the plasterboard walls and does not absorb it. At the very end, let the primer dry and begin gluing wallpaper or applying paint using a roller.
Tips for finishing an attic with plasterboard (video)
You can arrange the attic floor yourself using sheets of plasterboard for finishing. Thus you will receive smooth walls, you will hide all communications and you can put up wallpaper. The final decoration of the attic depends on your taste and the design style of the room that you choose from ready-made options or design it yourself.
Do-it-yourself attic finishing with plasterboard (photo of the process)
If there is a sufficiently spacious attic space in the house, not a single owner will refuse the opportunity to expand their living space by arranging under the roof cozy attic. You can choose wood as a cladding material, but it is expensive and difficult to work with. In addition, these walls and ceilings will require constant attention and care. Next option– plastic, it is more unpretentious. However, it will be impossible to change the design of the room later, and the material itself is quite cold. The ideal solution is to finish the attic with plasterboard:
- It's relatively inexpensive.
- It is possible to carry out insulation and insulation work simultaneously.
- If you have already dealt with this material, you can easily do without involving a construction team.
- If you get tired of the finish, you can change it to another quite painlessly.
The only note: it is better to choose moisture-resistant drywall in the attic over ordinary drywall. Because in such rooms the humidity is usually high.
Preparatory stage of covering the room
Before covering the attic with plasterboard, you need to make sure that it is ready for improvement. We remember that there is a roof above this room, and its condition determines how comfortable you will be in the freshly decorated room, and how long it will last.
- The condition of the roof is examined. The most reliable results of such an action are during the rainy season - leaks will appear in all their glory. Damaged parts of the roof are repaired with all care.
- Rafters and beams are no less important in this regard. They are checked for strength, dryness and absence of rotting. All wooden parts are impregnated with antiseptics.
If the house was recently built, equipping the attic room and covering it with plasterboard with your own hands is postponed until all structural elements are completely dry.
Rafter installation
In some cases, it is possible to get by with frameless cladding, although this method is not considered the most reliable. Lathing can be considered optional for a small attic, where the distance between the rafters is a maximum of 75 centimeters.
- Drywall is purchased with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Thinner sheets that are rigidly fixed to the rafters will begin to bend and swell.
- The cut drywall is placed on the walls using a special glue. In those places where the surface is fairly flat, it is applied in a layer. Where dips are observed, cakes are applied to level out differences in altitude.
- The last step is finishing the attic ceiling. Here the cutting must be as precise as possible. Individual sheets are fixed not only with glue, but also with long stainless steel screws into the rafters.
Internal corners, especially those at an angle, are reinforced not just with sickle, but with a perforated corner. And keep in mind: you most likely will not have a perfectly flat surface, since the rafters may have a significant difference in height.
Frame method: we use a metal profile
This method is not only more reliable, but also allows you to insulate the room. Of course, if you intend to use it purely for summer, this step is not mandatory, although it helps to operate the attic longer without intermediate repairs.
- Careful measurements of the entire room are taken. Calculated and purchased required material: profiles, drywall, hardware.
- Installation of the sheathing begins with the walls. The markings of the future sheathing are transferred to the floor and ceiling (be sure to check that the rack is vertical).
- Frame guides are installed around the perimeter. Each of the profile segments must be fixed at least at 3 points. The maximum distance between fasteners is a meter.
- Racks are attached to the guides at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other using metal screws. It is imperative to check their verticality.
- Next, the crossbars are fixed. Their frequency must correspond to the length plasterboard sheets after cutting.
- If you are laying electrical communications, they are installed precisely at this stage, when the sheathing has already been created, and covering the attic with plasterboard is still ahead.
- Insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. It is optimal to use mineral wool as it: it is indifferent to moisture and is not susceptible to the teeth of rodents.
The entire structure is covered with a water vapor barrier membrane. If the humidity in your attic is low, you can skip this step.
GKL attic cladding
Basic principles on how to sheathe attic room plasterboard, are similar to similar actions for finishing other rooms.
- The cut sheets are attached to the profiles with a step between fasteners of 20-25 cm.
- Horizontal seams should be offset relative to each other by at least a third of the width of the sheet. If it turns out that the whole slab forms a straight line with the adjacent joint, replace it with a trimmed one.
- First, the space is laid out with solid plasterboards. The trimmings are put to use when the main area is sheathed.
- In the walls of the attic, where there are openings - doors or windows - at the junction of the plasterboard sheets they are fixed with the same frequency of fasteners along the entire perimeter of the opening. And make sure that the gypsum board joints do not fall on the corners of the openings: in these places the tensile stress is high, especially if the sashes are opening (not blind window), and the finish will develop cracks over time.
The treatment of walls and ceilings before finishing is also standard: sealing joints and hardware caps, strengthening corners, priming and puttying. But how to finish an attic already lined with plasterboard is a matter of your preferences and tastes. Any type of finish is acceptable. The only limitation is the lack of heating, if you did not install it in the attic.
As you can see, covering an attic room with plasterboard is only a little more difficult than the same room in a residential building. Difficulties usually arise in the area of inclined planes of attics, but people who have already erected similar structures easily adapt to new installation conditions.
Widely used for lining various broken surfaces. One such surface is the ceiling and slopes of the attic room. The attic is the upper room in the house, the ceiling and walls of which are the truss system of the roof of the house. The triangle of rafters forms the broken surface of the attic ceiling, dividing it into the ceiling itself and the slopes of the ceiling, surfaces located at an angle to the ceiling and walls.
They equip the attic, more often, on gable roof, with a broken or straight profile. Since the slope angle mansard roof are made within 30-60˚, then any type of roof can be used to cover roofs. For example, you can use . The roof inclination angle for tiles is from 20-60˚.
Finishing a plasterboard attic - general information and material
The finishing of plasterboard attics, namely the ceiling and slopes of the attic, is done on a wooden frame or a frame made of a metal profile.
- For a wooden frame, dry wooden beam sections 48×24; 50×30; 60×40 cm. The standardization of the bars is conditional and is related only to the width of the straight hangers that are used in the metal frame of the attic ceiling.
- For metal frame Direct hangers and ceiling profile PP 60 by 27 and guide profile PN 28 by 27 are used.
The following fastening screws are used for fastening into the frame structure and cladding of attic frames:
- Screw TN 5x70. It is used for attaching bars (load-bearing) to the structure of rafters and racks in wooden structure ceiling;
- Screw FN 5x35 or two screws TN 3.5-4x25. They are used for attaching direct hangers to ceiling and rafter beams.
- LN 3.5x10 (metal-to-metal). It is held together by direct hangers and metal profiles of the supporting and ceiling guides.
Description of the design of the attic frame for plasterboard
So, we have an attic space with visible rafter system roofs. Closer to the ridge of the roof, the rafters are connected by a beam, and towards the base of the attic, a frame for the attic walls is made from support bars. All elements attic structure wooden.
The design of the frame for covering the attic with plasterboard, regardless of the material used (bar or profile), is done in the same way.
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- The wooden block is attached directly to the roof rafters (1).
- The metal profile is attached to the rafters on direct hangers (3).
- If necessary, lower the ceiling and slopes of the attic, wooden block can be lowered using direct hangers (2).
In principle, this is the entire frame structure for cladding the attic. Only the distances between the profiles or bars change. The distances depend on the planned load on the frame, and it depends on the planned thickness of the skin. In the table you see the dimensions of the bars and the distances between the rafter bars (a). Table 1.
Note: As in other ceiling structures, gypsum plasterboard sheets can be attached along the guide bars (profiles) or across them. The interaxal distance between the bars (b) depends on the planned fastening of the HA sheets. Table 2.
Corner joints of plasterboard sheets when cladding the attic
The plasterboard sheets of the ceiling and attic slopes will be joined at obtuse angles. Docking is done by placing one sheet under the other. With two sheet coverings, the overlapping of sheets changes: slope, ceiling, slope, ceiling.
Most owners of private houses, as a rule, think about making the attic space located under the roof suitable for living, which will allow them to significantly expand the usable living area. As an option for a quick and not particularly costly solution to the problem, cladding the internal parts of the roof with some kind of cladding material can be considered, the choice of which is usually determined by the preferences of the contractor.
According to professionals, for these purposes it is most convenient to use plasterboard, which belongs to the category of fairly practical and relatively inexpensive building materials.
In addition to the fact that drywall has a very reasonable cost, that is, it is available to almost anyone, it has a number of unique properties which are described in detail below:
- First of all, the natural gypsum contained in this material helps to normalize the indoor climate by absorbing excess moisture from the air and releasing it when there is a deficiency. This property of plasterboard makes it indispensable when carrying out internal finishing works.
- Noteworthy is the property of this material, such as its fire resistance, due to which, when exposed to high temperatures drywall does not burn, but only smolders, without emitting substances harmful to the human body.
- Decorate your premises with this lightweight and practical building material carried out quite quickly. The time spent on finishing work is incomparably less than when using facing materials of any other class. At the same time, you will need no more than 1–2 days to construct a metal frame and then cover it with sheets of plasterboard; the same amount will be spent on finishing the surface.
In a room such as an attic, it is recommended to use a special type of this material, namely, moisture-resistant plasterboard (VGKL), which does not deform in conditions of high humidity.
Significant disadvantages of the material we are considering include its low strength and tendency to fracture even under light loads.
Finishing the attic with plasterboard is carried out in stages, taking into account the mandatory preparatory procedures (including inspection and repair of the roof). Let's look at each of these stages in more detail.
Preparation for finishing includes two mandatory points, the correct execution of which determines the success of the entire event.
First of all, before starting the main work, you should make sure that the roof of your building is in perfect condition and that there is not even a hint of any leaks in it. If you want the attic you are constructing to please you with its coziness and comfort, you need to worry about this in advance, since after covering the walls with plasterboard it will no longer be possible to correct the situation.
In this case, you may encounter this unpleasant phenomenon, such as the appearance of smudges on sheets of drywall, which most often appear in the spring and autumn (especially during periods of heavy rain). If your roof requires partial repairs, it is best to postpone the idea of decorating the attic with your own hands until better times.
It is advisable to wait until the rainy season, which will allow you to detect all damaged areas roofing. Only after the final elimination of these damages will it be possible to begin implementing the second point.
Second part preparatory work includes examination load-bearing elements roofing structure, namely its beams and rafters, the strength and reliability of which should not raise any doubts. When directly inspecting them, be sure to make sure that there is no accumulation of dampness on these parts of the structure, and that there are no traces of mold or rot on their surface.
The wooden elements of the frame base used must be thoroughly dried before installation. Such foresight eliminates the possibility of deformation of the structure during its operation, which can cause displacement of the sheets finishing material and subsequent destruction of the entire finish.
Preparation of material and tools
To carry out finishing work you will need to purchase the following building materials:
- plasterboard blanks;
- wooden bars or metal profiles (for making a frame);
- a set of fastening elements (including special hangers and screws).
From the tool you will need:
- screwdriver - it will be needed when constructing the frame and securing the sheathing sheets;
- building level, which is used to control the horizontalness of fastening bars or profiles on the walls;
- a grinder for cutting metal blanks of the required length or special metal scissors;
- tape measure and pencil;
- a sharp knife used for cutting drywall blanks (or a hacksaw).
At small sizes in the attic, it is allowed to fix the facing material on wooden frame, made by stuffing thin bars and slats onto beams and rafters, then sheathed with sheets of plasterboard.
Preparation of a solid metal frame may be required in the following cases:
- in a situation where sheet fixation facing material on the internal roof sheathing is not possible;
- with significant dimensions of the attic space;
- if you want to give the interior of the room being finished an unusual and original look, which will require making a frame of complex configuration.
Installation metal base for cladding the attic, in essence, is no different from similar operations performed when finishing other premises. In this case, guides are also first installed around the perimeter, into which so-called rack profiles are then installed in 60 cm increments. When installing them Special attention should be given to the areas where window and doorways. In these areas, the installation step of the profiles is selected so that the cladding planes follow the contours of the existing windows and doors.
When arranging a metal frame, you may encounter certain difficulties, consisting in the fact that when preparing it you need to exactly follow the contours of the roof structure, which, as a rule, has a complex configuration. In the case when the owners strive to make maximum use of the usable space in the future premises, they have no choice but to prepare frame structure, exactly following the contours of the existing roof.
In order for your attic to be warm and cozy, you should definitely place a layer of insulation between the roof structure and the sheathing (in the niches of the frame), which is most conveniently used as a material molded in the form of mats or plates.
Placement of material in laying areas can be done in one of the following ways:
- free styling;
- fixation using a special adhesive;
- securing mats or slabs with profile sections.
The first method is preferable when the material is placed very tightly in the niches, without gaps, and is self-fixed in them due to compression. The second technique allows you to securely attach the insulation to a surface treated with a special glue. Well, in the latter case, which is considered the most effective, the plates insulation material securely pressed to the plane with sections of the profile remaining after installation of the frame.
Sheathing the frame with plasterboard is most often done in one layer; However, sometimes, in order to increase the strength of the coating being formed, this material is laid in two layers. With single-layer cladding you can save on material and costs. possible repairs finishing coating, but the walls are not strong enough. The second option involves a greater expenditure of effort and money, but at the same time its use makes it possible to increase the strength of the structure being constructed.
The procedure for single-layer sheathing an attic with plasterboard is relatively simple and, as a rule, comes down to two simple operations. When performing them, the finishing sheet is first applied to the sheathing plane (to the sheathing), after which it is secured to the frame base using self-tapping screws (in increments of about 20 cm).
In the case of two-layer sheathing, one layer of sheet material is first formed, after which the second row is laid on it with a slight offset.
This is probably where the recommendations for finishing the attic with plasterboard end. Perhaps you have any questions while reading this article? Then ask them to our specialist consultant. He will provide you with more information.
Video
You can learn how to cover an attic ceiling with plasterboard from the video:
Finishing the attic in the house by professional installers! Plasterboard ornate designs are an indispensable attribute in the implementation of intricate children's interiors. Functional benefits at optimized costs: attic room can easily be turned into a spacious, bright and comfortable interior for living. It’s quite easy to turn any attic into a cozy attic: you just need to do some work on installing windows in the pitched roof plane and prepare the room for plasterboard cladding.
Our specialists have the necessary experience in insulating and finishing attics at sites in Moscow and the Moscow region. We assume responsibility with written guarantees for the quality of the entire range of work performed on the arrangement of attic and attic spaces.
Insulation and installation of drywall on the attic plane is economically beneficial: it reduces heat loss, simultaneously reducing the energy consumption of the entire house during the cold period.
Creative development and implementation of the most unusual design concepts for renovation attic spaces And attic floors into a full-fledged living space!
CHRONOLOGY OF FINISHING WORKS on the attic floor
Finishing attic and attic spaces with plasterboard panels is the best option in terms of cost and speed of implementation repair work compared to the use of masonry materials. When constructing such cladding structures, the loss usable area– minimal.
Sheathing attics with plasterboard is carried out after a stage of preparatory procedures, including inspection of the roof structure and strength testing load-bearing beams and rafters. If necessary, proper repairs are carried out.
Working stages during finishing sheet panels drywall:
- Marking frame systems according to design drawings
- Installation of dividing partitions
- Installation of modular systems of ceiling, pitched and wall frames
- Laying engineering
- Formation of a heat/sound insulation layer
- Cladding sheet material(GVL, GVLV, GKL, GKLV) - in two sheets with overlap.
- Preparation for decorative finishing
The structural system of the frame is erected by means of fastening wooden blocks to the rafters or secured through direct hangers metal profiles. The gypsum board-mounted structure is lightweight and reliable; for cladding it is recommended to use small-format gypsum fiber sheets(GVL, GVLV).
Customers practice single-layer cladding in order to save money, but the resulting coating is not durable enough. (In this case, we remove the guarantee from ourselves) Sheathing with plasterboard in two layers will help increase the strength of the coating being formed and the constructed system as a whole. Adjacent panels of the first and second layers are mounted at intervals of frame profiles, the joints between panels are puttied and reinforced with paper tape. The resulting surface is prepared according to technologies for the subsequent application of a layer of decorative materials.
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