A modern set of repair and construction equipment is hard to imagine without such important tool like a perforator. The principle of its operation is based on the functions of a conventional one, which are expanded by reciprocating shock capabilities. A special mechanism is responsible for them, which converts the rotational movements of the shaft into shock. If repair of the hammer drill is required, then this particular assembly most often fails, because it is subjected to increased loads.
Features of the design of the perforator
The percussion function in the electric puncher is provided by a special pneumomechanical unit. However, there are also models of perforators in which mechanical or electrical system. It should be noted that these tools are inferior in accuracy and performance to electric perforators with pneumatic impact formation.
The design of perforators has its own characteristics, one of which is the use of extra strong drills instead of conventional drills. Due to its special shape, the drill is able to withstand greater longitudinal loads than a drill with a percussion mechanism. The drill does not have an acute cutting edge on the working end - it is replaced by a carbide tip. Meanwhile, the design of the drill provides spiral longitudinal grooves, similar to the grooves of conventional drills. However, they are intended for the removal of crushed waste material in the process of drilling a hole. For a perforator, in addition to reciprocating, it also performs rotational movements around its own longitudinal axis, which also contribute to the straightness and centering of the drill in the material.
The chuck and shank of the drill are designed in such a way that it is not rigidly fixed, but has some freedom of longitudinal movement. This is done in order to prevent the loss of kinetic energy of impact to accelerate the cartridge, increase productivity and reduce the vibration level of the punch.
Strong pollination is one of the main causes of tool breakage, and the chuck, in addition to heavy load, also takes on the main part of the dust. So that the repair of the punch cartridge does not turn into a chronic problem, it must be periodically cleaned of dust and dirt. Washing with gasoline or cleaning is recommended. After cleaning, all elements of the cartridge should be re-lubricated.
Perforator reducer
The gearbox transmits torque from the engine to the percussion mechanism of the perforator. It is a set of cylindrical, bevel and worm gears. The speed of rotation of the cartridge and the number of strokes are changed using electronic controllers. There are also models equipped with a two-speed gearbox.
The gearbox needs to be lubricated periodically and for this purpose the use of greases is recommended. They are refueled when assembly, maintenance or repair of the rotary hammer gearbox is carried out.
The main causes of breakdowns
As already mentioned, one of the main causes of breakdowns of most of the perforator assemblies is heavy dusting. For example, a collector motor is cooled by a fan, which, together with air, delivers dust particles to the motor. As a result of the friction of these particles on the armature and stator, these mechanisms wear out quickly.
If the tool does not turn on, one of the reasons may be damage to the winding, then the repair of the puncher is inevitable - you will have to rewind the stator and armature.
Also, frequent breakdowns are associated with mechanical assemblies of perforators. Most models are equipped with mechanisms for switching operating modes (rotation, fight, rotation with fight). If at least one of these functions has stopped working, the switch is most likely to blame. To repair the damage, disassembly of the tool will be required.
is it worth the risk?
Most users are convinced of the inappropriateness of repairing cheap models of rotary hammers. Such a skeptical attitude is explained by the imperfection of the design of inexpensive, as a rule, Chinese models. But if some insignificant detail has broken, this does not mean at all that you should immediately run to the store for a new tool. Currently, you can easily purchase all kinds of spare parts for any models of rotary hammers.
Another reason for the reluctance to repair the puncher with your own hands is the fear of not understanding the complex mechanism. Of course, such concerns are justified. After all, if the user does not know the perforator device perfectly, he will not be able to do repairs on his own. In this case, of course, it makes sense to contact a specialized workshop. Be that as it may, do not rush to put an end to your tool, because any repair will be cheaper than a new puncher.
Disassembly order
If you still decide to repair the hammer drill on your own, then the tool should be disassembled in the following order:
- Carefully remove the shift lever.
- Detach the rubber cap.
- Disassemble the cartridge: remove the brushes, unscrew the screws and disconnect the body.
- Inspect, clean parts, replace faulty elements (brushes, bearings, gears, armature, etc.), lubricate all friction units (CVL greases are not recommended).
The tool is assembled in the reverse order.
Fault symptoms
But how do you know that a hammer drill needs to be repaired? Of course, the simplest sign is the inability to turn on the tool. However, any other, even minor changes in the operation of the device should not be ignored. This, for example, can be changes in sounds at idle or during operation, sparks from the engine, smoke, burning smell, jerks of working bodies, sudden periodic stops, and other symptoms. All this indicates problems that must be immediately eliminated in order to avoid global breakdowns and costly repairs.
Everyone who has ever had to work with a hammer drill knows how difficult the conditions for its operation are. That is why do-it-yourself puncher repair is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything related to the repair of this tool.
What do you need to know about hammer drill repair?
Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be of high quality, to do their job 100%. First of all, it will save you from serious damage correct use tool, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, timely repair of the device. At the same time, any small failure should already be a cause for concern and preparation for repair.
So, such "beacons" can be:
- Unstable operation of the perforator in operating mode;
- The appearance of strange sounds when the punch is turned on;
- The smell of burning;
- The perforator does not hammer, although there are no apparent reasons for this.
As soon as something like this happened to your equipment, then it's time for repairs. Like any similar work, it requires attentiveness, understanding the cause of the breakdown and knowing how to deal with it. And your very first step in the repair is disassembling the tool into its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything to the nuances - how, what and why!
We disassemble the hammer drill step by step - a quick search for a breakdown
Just imagine that your tool suddenly stopped working or you urgently needed to replace some defective part. The easiest way is to take it to a service center for repair, but this takes time, which means it will stop your work for some period. But if you know how the device is disassembled, it will be much easier for you to carry out the rest of the work. In addition, this will lead to significant cost savings, because it will not be necessary to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.
Instructions for disassembling the tool:
- We start work, starting with the upper node: first, the rubber tip is removed, after that - the washer, spring, the ball completes the work.
- After you have removed the ball, unscrew the screws that hold the body, remove the cover on the handle, if any, and lastly disconnect the stator wires.
- Take out the brush holder.
- The next stage is the separation of the gearbox and housing until a gap is formed. It is through it that we will remove the switch.
- After that, the body of the puncher is placed vertically, fixed with a vice, and all its parts are carefully removed from the device.
No matter what kind of breakdown awaits you, clean the case - sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.
Punch repair yourself step by step
To repair a device such as a puncher, you should be as prepared as possible, which will reduce financial and labor costs to a minimum. Not bad if you are more or less familiar with the design of the puncher, you know what parts and assemblies it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace a broken part. Most often, the repair of a perforator comes down to a banal replacement of “flying” elements, which include:
- Anchor;
- brushes;
- gears;
- Starters;
- Bearings;
- Cables for connecting to the network;
- Switches.
It should be noted that the easiest way to repair tools light class, taking into account the fact that such a perforator is perfect for carrying out construction works at home. But breakdowns of more serious equipment are much more difficult, and only professional craftsmen. In any case, no matter what class of tool you are interested in, find a model with a vacuum cleaner - this device will save you time on cleaning, and will also make your work safer, because it reduces the amount of dust.
Another problem is in the breakdown of the windings, rewinding of the armature and starter, which also arise due to dust. Repair consists of thorough cleaning and replacement of those parts that cannot be repaired. However, "prevention" is more reliable method. To do this, you need to clean the device every two weeks, impregnate it with varnish or grease. By the way, the choice of lubricant must be taken carefully. Yes, there are a few rules. First, it is better to purchase a solution from the same manufacturer ( Bosch, Makita, Enkor), as the perforator itself, in this case, oil or varnish will fit perfectly in its composition. If there is no such composition at hand, you are fine. suitable oil for diesel engine.
The second most common cause of breakage is brush wear, no matter how much your tool cost - even the most expensive models are prone to this problem. It is very easy to replace them: we disassemble the punch according to the above described scheme, find worn brushes and put new ones in their place. It is only necessary to correctly determine which of them is best to use: carbon, graphite or carbon-graphite. So, graphite ones have a long service life, however, due to the hardness of the material, the collector may suffer. Carbon elements have a short life, but they have high-quality contact with other parts of the perforator. The purchase of the third option is considered optimal and inexpensive.
There are problems with the mechanical elements of the device. Each model is equipped with switching modes, and they often fail, especially on cheap devices. The algorithm of work is the same - we disassemble the puncher, find broken parts, replace them. The main thing is to purchase items suitable for this model. A similar problem often "haunts" cartridges that are subjected to maximum load. First of all, protect them from dust and dirt by washing the elements with grease. But if the cartridge is still broken, we will have no choice but to change it.
Now you know how to fix a perforator and you see that most of breakdowns is reduced to simple cleaning or replacement of defective parts. But if you have disassembled the tool, and there are no visible reasons, it is better to take the device to a service center - specialists will quickly find the cause and eliminate it.
Rules of operation or how to protect the device from breakdowns?
Prevention is here effective method, which will avoid many breakdowns in the operation of the device. In this case, it implies the correct use. You should start with how to insert the drills correctly: we firmly grasp the chuck and pull the spindle axles. When the hole expands, you can install the drill by lowering the chuck. If you are going to work in impact mode, be sure to lubricate the shanks with grease, choosing it by manufacturer, but there is also a universal solution from the company Litol, also deserved a lot of positive feedback from users.
To prevent the drills from breaking, remember a few rules for working with materials. So, for example, you can not use shock mode if you have to work with metal or wood products.
To protect yourself and save when drilling concrete, use a safety clutch. And all due to the fact that concrete structures there may be reinforcement - the drill will simply get stuck in it. If there is no clutch, use low speeds, and do not hold on to the handle very tightly - if suddenly the tool gets stuck in the armature, you must quickly release it from your hands, otherwise bruises and bruises cannot be avoided.
For work it is important to use quality tool: it is more pleasant to work with this, and malfunctions occur much less frequently. But still, when breakdowns occur, it will be useful to know how you can fix them yourself.
A puncher is the tool that will always come in handy on the farm. It is used for drilling and drilling holes, indispensable for homeowners made of reinforced concrete structures, since a drill in such conditions may be useless.
Perforator design
In order to independently repair the puncher in the event of a breakdown, you need to know its device. And although there are several types of perforators, different models may differ in functionality or power, but they are similar in design and principle of operation.
The perforator consists of:
- Electric motor.
- Reduction gear. Responsible for increasing the torque of the working axis and reducing the rotation speed.
- Impact mechanism. The presence of this part of the hammer and differs from the drill.
- patron. Performs the role of fastening for nozzles.
You need to choose the type and brand of a puncher, starting from where and how often the tool will be used. In any case, it is better that it be of high quality, then breakdowns can be avoided. However, it is important to know the signs by which you can determine that the electrical appliance will soon fail or has already failed. These signs are as follows:
Disassembly and repair of the cartridge
One of frequent breakdowns faced by owners of rotary hammers - this is a cartridge failure. In order to disassemble it, you will need such equipment: a screwdriver, a hammer, pliers and an open-end wrench.
First you need to find a rubber sleeve on the end and remove it and the retaining ring. After that, access to the working clutch will open, which must be displaced and another retaining ring removed. You can use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the rings. The next step is to remove the spring and fixing balls. Now you need to remove the cartridge, for this you can use a vice and clamp the cartridge in them, take the open-end wrench and rotate the spindle by the flats.
If a cartridge fell off while working with a perforator, this may mean that the cartridge case at the attachment point has become unusable. To eliminate this problem, it is enough to replace the retaining ring with a new one.
There are times when using a drill flies out of the cartridge. Then you need to disassemble the cartridge and determine what could be the cause. Pay attention to the following parts: balls, limit ring and fixing spring. If one of them is damaged, then you need to replace it, then the problem will be solved.
If, when disassembling the cartridge, it became clear that the inner cylinder had become unusable, then the cartridge must be completely replaced, since it cannot be restored. In this case, you can get all the parts that have not yet worn out from the old one, they can be useful in the future if some of these components wear out in the new cartridge.
After repair, it is important for the first time during work not to give heavy loads in order to check the performance of the tool.
If the malfunction of the punch is not related to the cartridge, and with its mechanical or electrical part, it will be necessary to completely disassemble the tool to find out the cause of the breakdown.
For disassembly, you can read the instructions or technical documentation to a specific model, however, you should be aware that, as a standard, the mechanical part is behind the cartridge, and the electrical part follows the mechanical one. First you will need to use a screwdriver or screwdriver and unscrew the screws that hold the plastic case. The number of screws depends on the model. The wires that are available are carefully disconnected. When disassembling, it is important to remember or write down the sequence of connecting parts so that there are no problems with assembly in the future. Be sure to read the instructions in order to know where which parts are located and their correct names.
Repair of the most common faults
One of the most common faults there is a spark of brushes. Often this is due to wear on the part itself, so to fix this problem, they need to be replaced with new ones.
It may also be necessary to remove the operating mode switch, for this you need to set it to the “blow” position (so that the arrow points to the hammer image) and turn it further by about one centimeter. Next, the lever is released from the socket and pulled out towards itself.
If during operation the body of the puncher gets very hot, then, firstly, the operating mode is not observed, and secondly, the reason may lie in a malfunction of the electric motor.
Motor disassembly
If it was determined that failure associated with the electric motor, you need to take it apart. To do this, following the instructions, determine where the electric motor is located and disconnect its housing from the gearbox. You will need to unscrew the screws that hold them together. Remove the motor rotor from the guide sleeve, after which it will be possible to fully inspect the parts of the electric motor.
Armed with a multimeter, you can check the windings of the copper conductor, and if an interturn short circuit is determined, you will have to replace the armature with a new one. It would be useful to check if the insulation is damaged, and if such a problem is identified, then fix it.
Change of bearings and start button
Sometimes there is need to change bearings. During inspection, you may notice that if you scroll it by hand, it can make strange sounds such as crackling or crunching. This means the bearing needs to be replaced. To do this, you can use a special puller, it consists of a screw part and a part that is adapted to grip the bearing sleeve. After dismantling, the installation of a new bearing is required, for this they usually use a rubber or wood hammer, with light blows of which you need to put the bearing in its place. It is important not to apply excessive force so that the bearing axis does not move relative to the shaft axis.
It may also be necessary to replace the start button; for this, the cover is first removed, which is a housing for protecting the internal parts of the punch. After that, the contacts of the conductors that are connected to the button are disconnected, and the button itself is pulled out of the seat. Now it remains to take new button and do all the above steps in reverse order.
As you can see, repairing a perforator with your own hands is a task that anyone can handle, the main thing is to figure out the device of this tool that is useful in household use and follow the instructions. A to minimize the chance of breakage, you need to follow some rules:
- Before starting to work with the tool, inspect it for chips or cracks in the body. If found, repair them.
- Read the instructions and technical passport product and follow all instructions for handling it.
- Use quality drills that are suitable for a particular type of material.
- If the amount of work to be done is large, then breaks should be taken to avoid overheating.
- After working with the tool is finished, clean its surface of dirt and dust, you can also use a vacuum cleaner to blow it out.
- Comply with storage conditions. The hammer drill must be located in a special place where moisture does not penetrate, as it can damage electrical parts.
- Conduct complete analysis, cleaning and lubricating the tool on a regular basis once or twice a year.
By the way, the lack or lack of lubrication is a fairly common cause of damage to the punch. The instructions for the device should indicate which places and parts must be lubricated and which should not. It is important to know that a liquid lubricant must be used for gearboxes, which must be poured into a hole specially designed for this purpose; for other parts, a thicker lubricant can be used.
By following these simple rules the tool will last a long time, and the risk of malfunctions will be minimized. But if any malfunction nevertheless appears, then, following the recommendations above, you will eliminate it without difficulty.
The puncher always works in extreme conditions. It is not surprising that over time it fails, both consumer goods models and famous brands. If the hammer drill is expensive, then you won’t just abandon it and you won’t run to buy another one instead, and you don’t need to. It is better to try to repair the puncher with your own hands, and our article will help you with this.
When you are faced with a choice and decide what to do with a rotary hammer that does not want to work, think: can you repair it yourself? Repairs are worth it if:
- you already have experience in repairing some mechanisms;
- if your puncher is not one of the cheapest models. In this case, not only should you not start repairs on your own, but you should not contact the masters either. As the saying goes: "The sheepskin is not worth the hassle";
- if you know the nuances of the device of the puncher that you are going to repair, because they are very different from each other, each has its own technological features.
It is best to consider specific example, which we will do.
Makita punch repair
This hammer drill is known for its reliability, but there is still a limit to its endurance.
We disassemble our tool and start with a cartridge
To find out the cause of the breakdown, it is necessary to disassemble the mechanism:
- Remove the lever through which the switching is performed. Special care is required here, otherwise the repair may result in further destruction of parts.
- If you have a Makita model 2450, then the cartridge is not removed here, so you have to disassemble it:
- we take a flat screwdriver and remove the rubber gasket - a barrier to dust getting inside the puncher. You may have changed this part more than once;
- next in line is the retaining ring;
- now the cover prevents further disassembly. We remove it and see that in the barrel of the cartridge there is a fixing assembly, consisting of a ring holding the ball, a guide for the ball, a conical spring. We disassemble everything in order, starting with the metal ring.
What surprises can await you after disassembling the cartridge? His typical problems are:
- the rubber gasket has worn out and no longer prevents dust from entering the puncher. Repair will consist in cleaning the parts from dust and replacing the anther. Dirt will also penetrate if the cap on the cartridge is deformed. This does not particularly affect the work, but the parts will wear out faster;
- the retaining ring is loose or completely worn out. We change it;
- the ball is worn out. The way out is simple - replacement, but with the condition that the diameter is not less than a micron, otherwise the cartridge will fail again and completely. Do not forget to conscientiously lubricate this element and fix it in the hole of the guide washer;
- wear of the ball guide itself is also possible, i.e. washers at the points where they contact. In case of critical wear of it, we make a replacement;
- conical spring - the most resistant part, but with long work may also be deformed. If this happens, we perform the replacement by turning its smaller vertex to the gearbox;
- now you can assemble the cartridge, but do the assembly in the reverse order and finally lubricate the end of the drill.
We disassemble the switch that controls the choice of operating modes
To perform this operation, you will need a 2 mm slotted screwdriver with a T-shaped working part:
- the main task is to pull the latch out of the handle. Having inserted a screwdriver into one of the grooves on the side of the handle, carefully hook it first on one wing of the latch, and then on the other and pull it out of the handle. In this case, the spring can be wrung out, and the latch will pop out of the handle. We hold it so that this does not happen;
- now you need to move the handle to the left until the protrusions on it and the recesses on the gearbox housing coincide. The switch is released and we dismantle it;
- latch, together with the spring, we take it out;
- delete rubber compressor located on the switch handle;
- We clean all the details and their location.
We find a breakdown
- The first thing that most likely caused the hammer to fail was the worn out switch fingers, because during operation they constantly come into contact with rotating parts. The switch must be changed at the same time, but if work cannot be interrupted to find a new switch, then simply turn the worn element 180 degrees. This measure is temporary complete replacement still unavoidable.
- The seats have fallen into disrepair. We change the switch.
- Sealing round rubber gasket is deformed and grease is leaking from the gearbox. The solution is obvious - we make a replacement.
- The latch process that holds it in the gearbox housing has broken, which contributes to spontaneous switching of modes. You can not change the latch, if this problem does not bother you, the puncher will still work.
- Breakage of both wings of the latch, which leads to the switch jumping out of its seat in the housing. We change the latch and work on.
Assembling the switch:
- The switch handle is equipped with two metal fingers. They must be lubricated, and at the same time the ring, before putting it in place.
- Next, put in the pen:
- spring;
- retainer;
- latch.
3. We put the switch in the gearbox, but only partially, otherwise we will not be able to perform the next operation
4. The switch will have to be turned counterclockwise so that it is the way it was when we dismantled it. Now it will fully fall into place. If you feel that something is wrong, then you have deepened the latch too much.
5. It remains to scroll the switch clockwise until it takes the position of the drilling mode, press down on the latch, make sure that the switch moves as it should to the selected positions, and the repair of the hammer drill in this part is completed.
Next up is the gearbox.
We repair the gearbox
If there is no suspicion that the engine has burned out, then the task is simplified by the fact that we will not dismantle the entire gearbox:
- from the trunk in a perpendicular position, we pull out the body along with the needle bearing. A malfunction may manifest itself in the fact that the bearing did not come out, and this indicates the development of a seat in the housing. Then the case is better to replace;
- replacement of the part is also necessary when the fit of the intermediate shaft bearing is weakened;
- if you notice that there is an oil leak, then sometimes, although rarely, you have to change the stuffing box, the place of which is the neck of the case. More often, the cause is not the stuffing box itself, but an excess of lubricant;
- if you have a real Makita, and not a fake - seat it is extremely rare to produce a switch, and if you slipped a fake, then the case will have to be changed for this reason often.
The cause was found and eliminated, now we are collecting it, while:
- lubricate the parts, but moderately;
- remove metal particles from the body;
- make sure everything is folded correctly;
- put the body in place.
Here the master disassembles the Makita rotary hammer in 5 minutes:
Bosch rotary hammer repair
Bosch is a long-lasting rotary hammer, but sometimes even the most famous brands have to be repaired.
So, what kind of malfunctions can this puncher have:
- in order not to disassemble the tool in vain, ring the cord first, its damage may cause a stop;
- if the cord is OK, check the armature and stator. To do this, unscrew the cover at the back and first just inspect, and then test;
- when disassembling the upper assembly, perform the work in the following sequence: rubber tip, lock washer, head, spring, ball;
- dismantle the housing and switch;
- Bosch's Achilles' heel is a compressor ring and a striker pushing a drill. More often than not, it's your own fault when you think that the harder you push, the better the tool will work. And everything is just the opposite. You press harder and reduce the stroke of the striker, the blows become more frequent and, as a result, the striker becomes unusable;
- if you do not periodically lubricate the drill shank, then the sealing rings and the striker will fail more often.
The technology, in general, differs little from that used in the repair of other brands of perforators.
The subtleties of repairing a perforator video will convey better than any description:
A home master who is able to use a puncher can easily cope with its repair. It will be about restoring the performance of the perforator.
Disassembled perforator
Perforators have firmly taken their place in the arsenal of working tools for home craftsmen. Like any other power tool, it can fail. It is not at all necessary to immediately run to the workshop, you can repair the puncher yourself. Especially its mechanical part.
Let's analyze the principle of operation and the device of the perforator
Tools may vary in power, functionality, but the principle of operation and the concept of design are the same for them. Of course we are talking about electromechanical versions. pneumoperforators is the lot of specialized service centers.
So, - we have in our hands a standard household or professional electric puncher. The main elements of the device:
Sectional punch mechanism
- Electric motor. It can be located along the chuck spindle, or perpendicularly - the difference is not fundamental.
- Reduction gear. Provides a reduction in rotational speed and at the same time increases the torque of the working axis.
- Impact mechanism. This is exactly the device that distinguishes a rotary hammer from a conventional electric drill.
- Cartridge. Accepts loads working nozzle and transmits torque and impact moment to working area. Serves as a retainer for nozzles. The most common standard is SDS.
The fundamental difference in the design concerns only the percussion mechanism. Most modern devices, an electro-pneumatic method of transferring impact energy is used. The piston makes reciprocating movements, and with the help of air cushion transfers energy to the ram, which in turn strikes at the striker, which has a mechanical connection with the cartridge.
The advantage of the design is the high impact energy and the absence of a mechanical connection between the ram and the piston.
The compressed air acts as a damper, reducing tool vibration.
This method of operation allows you to automatically turn off the impact mechanism at idle. Perforation occurs only with the pressure of the tip on the working area. When you apply force in the direction of drilling, the bypass valve closes, the cylinder becomes tight and compressed air drives the ramming mechanism. This saves the resource of the main components of the puncher.
Transmission of oscillations in electropneumatic percussion mechanism implemented in two ways:
How the tool works
- Crank mechanism. A crank is located on the gearbox shaft, which gives reciprocating motion to the piston. This design ensures the transmission of high power impact energy, and is used in medium and heavy type rotary hammers. The disadvantage is the large size. The main advantage is high reliability and reduction of vibrations on the case.
- Rolling bearing. The reciprocating movements are transmitted by a specially shaped outer race of the bearing. This design is compact, and is used in rotary hammers. light type. The main disadvantage is the rapid wear of the oscillating bearing.