A home craftsman who is able to use a hammer drill may well cope with its repair. It will be about restoring the perforator's performance.
Disassembled hammer drill
Perforators have firmly taken their place in the arsenal of the working tool of home craftsmen. Like any other power tool, it can fail. It is not at all necessary to immediately run to the workshop, the repair of the punch can be done by hand... Especially its mechanical part.
Let's analyze the principle of operation and the device of the perforator
The tools may differ in power, functionality, but the principle of operation and design concept are the same. Of course, we are talking about electromechanical versions. pneumatic hammer drills are the lot of specialized service centers.
So, we have in our hands a standard household or professional electric rotary hammer. The main elements of the device:
Punch mechanism in section
- Electric motor. It can be located along the spindle of the chuck, or perpendicularly - the difference is not fundamental.
- Reducing gear. Provides a reduction in rotational speed and at the same time increases the torque of the working axle.
- Impact mechanism. This is exactly the device that distinguishes the hammer drill from a conventional electric drill.
- Cartridge. Receives the loads of the working attachment and transmits the torque and shock moment to the working area. Serves as a lock for attachments. The most common standard is SDS.
The fundamental difference in design concerns only the striking mechanism. In most modern devices, an electro-pneumatic method of transferring impact energy is used. The piston makes reciprocating movements, and with the help of an air cushion transfers energy to the ram, which in turn strikes the striker, which has a mechanical connection with the cartridge.
The advantage of the design is the high impact energy and the absence of a mechanical connection between the ram and the piston.
The compressed air acts as a damper, reducing tool vibration.
This method of operation allows the striking mechanism to be automatically disengaged at idle speed. Perforation occurs only when the tip pressure on the working area. When you apply force towards the drilling, the bypass valve closes, the cylinder becomes sealed and the compressed air drives the ramming mechanism. This saves the resource of the main components of the hammer drill.
The transmission of vibrations in the electro-pneumatic percussion mechanism is realized in two ways:
How the tool works
- Crank mechanism. A crank is located on the gearbox shaft, which gives a reciprocating motion to the piston. This design provides high power transmission of impact energy, and is used in medium and heavy rock drills. The disadvantage is the large size. The main advantage is high reliability and reduced vibration on the body.
- Oscillating bearing. Reciprocating movements are transmitted by a specially shaped outer bearing race. This design is compact and is used in light-type rock drills. The main disadvantage is the rapid wear of the swing bearing.
Repair of a hammer drill is complicated due to the arrangement of units with a mechanical interface and a power unit. All parts have micronized tolerances and a verified sequence of actions. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure proper care and technical operation of the tool in accordance with the requirements of the instructions, thereby extending the overhaul period.
Punch device
There are few instrument users who have studied not only the order of pressing the levers and buttons, but also understand what happens in the mechanism as a result of the command received. Without knowing the interaction of the units, it is impossible to carry out even the smallest repairs to the hammer drill.
There are signs of malfunctions that relate to the power section, and sometimes mechanical wear or breakage of parts occurs.
Electrical diagrams and equipment are concentrated in one part and are presented in a section in the photo.
Symptoms of malfunction requiring replacement of parts or repair of the rotary hammer in the power section may be as follows:
- when the device is turned on, the mains fuses are triggered;
- the device does not turn on;
- when working, smoke appears with a pungent odor;
- the device sparks during operation;
- turns are not regulated.
You can find the reason why the device does not turn on using a tester. You need to look for a gap in the scheme, from simple to complex. Check connections, clean contacts. The most difficult and expensive part that is out of order can be the anchor of the hammer drill. This is the heart of the engine, made up of copper coils interconnected and held together by lamellas. In the event of a breakdown of insulation between the wires, a short circuit occurs anywhere, and the entire collector needs to be rewound or replaced. 
To determine that the anchor on the hammer drill is faulty, you can visually by the burnt winding, traces of smoke from the lamellas, or by testing for a short circuit. Damage can be eliminated by timely care, cleaning parts from dust, which is the root cause of all troubles. If sparking comes from the engine, the armature must be cleaned with an alcohol swab or a regular school rubber band to remove the graphite deposits from the manifold.
The second important part of the engine is carbon or graphite brushes. It is through the moving contacts that an electric charge enters the core, creating a torque induced by the EMF. The hammer drill brushes are the contact that connects the rotating collector to the power source.
The two elements always work in pairs. A carbon or graphite plate is pressed against the collector. As a result of constant friction against the rotating collector, the plates are abraded and the contact is broken. A symptom of a malfunction will be sparking in the manifold, possibly the engine is not revving. Regardless of the state of wear, both plates are changed simultaneously. Most tool models have brush wear indicators that warn the user ahead of time.
The rotations of the perforator may not be regulated due to a malfunction of the UUD, then it needs to be replaced, the device cannot be repaired.
Mechanical faults and their elimination
To find this or that malfunction, you need to get to the desired node. Any of the successively removed parts is carefully examined for the presence of:
- cracks;
- chips;
- burrs or scratches.
In most models, they are disassembled into two halves, but each of the hammer drills has its own characteristics. How to properly repair a punch with your own hands, watch the video:
A sign of a breakdown can be:
- refusal to perform a function;
- extraneous sounds inside the mechanism and excessive heating of the case;
- modes do not switch;
- grease is leaking.
Each of the signs can be the result of the breakdown of any of the parts that are removed in the sequence shown in the diagram. Assemble the tool in reverse order. Spare parts for should be purchased according to the specification in the service manual. 
One of the reasons for mechanical failure is often insufficient maintenance of the unit operating in difficult conditions. Preventive measures are not difficult, and the life of the instrument will be significantly lengthened. According to the rules of operation, it is necessary:
- renew the lubrication of the gearbox every six months;
- after 6 months, inspect and clean the brushes and the adjacent part of the collector;
- at the end of the working day, clean the puncher with a vacuum cleaner;
- remember to apply lubricant to the shanks of the slotting tool to seal against dust and prevent socket wear.
Do not exert physical effort when working with the hammer drill, the firing pin and seals wear out, the operator becomes tired and irritated.
Aims and purposes of tool lubrication
Tool breakage is often caused by missing, deficient or inappropriate lubrication. Abrasive wear is reduced if all gaps and cavities are covered with a layer of antifreeze, and cleaning is carried out in a timely manner.
The type of gear lubricant is different from the shank formulation. Each manufacturer recommends using a specific hammer lubricant specified in the instructions, with the required frequency.
There are general guidelines for all rock drills. Gearboxes should receive oil of a liquid consistency, poured into a special hole. For all units, you can undoubtedly use Bosh and Makita grease designed for gearboxes, which is what they do in service centers.
Incorrectly selected or excessively filled with grease can lead to overheating of the gear unit.
To lubricate the shanks of the working equipment before inserting into the chuck, a thicker grease from the same manufacturers is used. In this case, the shank attachment point in the chuck and the firing pin are protected from working out. Filling all gaps with grease prevents dust from entering the assembly.
It is necessary to lubricate the places indicated in the instructions. And it is certainly harmful to add lubricant to the clutch. In the event of a sudden detection of a lack of lubrication in the gearbox, you can use a domestic composition, Litol-24 Lux, but lubricant is not suitable for cordless rock drills, even temporarily.
The device of the working unit and the equipment of the punch
The hammer drill has a chuck in which the working tools are fixed. For professional heavy-duty rock drills, SDS max chucks only accept 18 mm shanks with five longitudinal grooves, which fit into the slot of the corresponding chuck profile.
The light and medium tool is equipped with an SDS plus chuck, which allows the use of a slotting tool with four longitudinal grooves and a cross section of 10 mm. The hammer drill chuck is designed so that it can only accept tools intended for it. If you insert an unsuitable accessory, it will not fit into the socket, or will be installed sideways. If you try to work, the attachment point will collapse. But drills do not have a fluted shank. An attachment chuck is used, which is installed in the SDS profile. But at the same time, the tool is lengthened. The chuck for the hammer drill for the drill can be quick-clamping or key. The adapter can only be used with the SDS + chuck, since the more powerful hammer drill does not have the function of drilling without hammering.
The puncher is a multifunctional tool. It can use modes:
- shock;
- percussion with drilling;
- drilling if there is a special chuck.
For work in shock mode, there are many devices used to facilitate manual labor. 
Impact with drilling is performed only with the use of hammer drill bits:
- hollow crown;
- shovel for chipping.
They call a tool that has a shank of a special profile, a working part, which is a screw and a tip made of special steel with a centering point. The destruction of the material occurs not by scraping, but by chipping off the rock. At the same time, an impact with a turn occurs, as a result of which the chipped pieces are removed along the helical surface of the working part.
Drills for a hammer drill are installed when working in a shock-free mode. With this tool, the light hammer drill can work like a regular wood drill. If necessary, the device can be used to tighten fasteners if the reverse function is provided.
A hollow crown is needed for straight through passage for cable routing or for creating recesses in the body of the structure for installing devices. The crown creates an annular passage, leaving the column in the middle. Since the nozzle has a special serrated profile, the metal reinforcement in the concrete will render the torches unusable.
Recesses in the wall can be made with a special chisel blade, but the holes will not look as neat as those made with a crown.
Bouchard has long been considered a sculptor's tool. Craftsmen used forged and cross bush hammers. It is a hammer-like percussion instrument with a notched firing pin. With a forging bush hammer, the sculptor cut off everything unnecessary from the stone block, and the cross shaped the stone.
When using one percussion mode, use with attachments:
- spatula or flat chisel;
- peak;
- channel chisel;
- bouchard.
The punch blade is designed for leveling hard material surfaces. With the help of this equipment, you can remove tiles from the walls, remove irregularities from the surface of hardened concrete. Correction of some flaws when installing openings in multi-storey construction is carried out using this tool. The rotary hammer chisel used in concrete comes in a variety of widths, depending on the application. Suitable for all rotary hammer drills. Specially created, narrowly directed nozzles are also used - a chisel, a ramming plate or a mortar cutter.
When dismantling building structures, it is required to create a breaking force. For the destruction of a wall or partition, concentrated in one point, the impact of the peak is provided by the power of a perforator. 
Bouchard presents a die-cast bit, a very durable sledgehammer. The bush hammer teeth are carbide-tipped, withstand high impact loads. Removing from the wall, breaking off a layer of concrete, knocking down a layer of rust from metal - this is the field of application of the bush hammer. If the walls are treated with this tool before plastering, reinforcement is not required. You cannot use the hammer drill in roll-over mode. The inevitable consequence will be jamming.
Rules to be followed
During operation, the hammer drill heats up quickly. In order to preserve the performance of the tool for a long time, it is necessary to take a break for at least 10 minutes after 20-30 minutes of work.
During work, when rotating the tool idle, it is necessary to remove crumbs and dust, clean the punched hole in order to facilitate the work of the tool. When drilling holes with a large cross-section, they are first drilled with a thin drill, then with a medium one, making a hole in three steps. Long through passes must be drilled first with short nozzles, gradually replacing them with longer ones.
After work, it is necessary to put the punch and used nozzles in order. The instruments must be free of dust and stored dry in a container.
Self-repair video punch
Every real man has a puncher at home or in the garage. But no matter how "golden" and neat hands you have, sooner or later your loud "assistant" breaks down. The repair of such a device is rarely located near the house, so often the best way is to try to fix it yourself.
In this article, we will look at how to quickly determine the cause of the malfunction and fix the equipment at home.
Features of maintenance of the punch
Any deviation from a good job is already a warning that something is wrong. If your instrument does not work as before, but with some errors, then you can always find out the reason yourself. But for this you need to understand how the perforator works from the inside.
When buying a device, especially an expensive and branded one, the client first of all pays attention to quality. After all, I really want the device to serve for a long time. But regardless of the price and manufacturer, there are always two parts: electrical and mechanical.
The part of the breakdown will depend on the features of the repair.
When disassembling and repairing a punch with your own hands, you need to know the characteristics of the apparatus, how the engine is installed: vertically or horizontally.
If the rotor is installed vertically, then such rock drills are called barrel rock drills.... Their peculiarity is that they work on the principle of a crank-connecting rod percussion mechanism. This tool is heavier, but also powerful. It should be borne in mind that because of this, the vertical rock drill needs more lubrication to keep it in order.
Rotary hammers, where the engine is horizontal, are less fancy and more convenient to use. Such a tool is ideal for home renovations.
When you've learned all this, it's time to understand what's inside. The electrical part is always closer to the place where you need to hold the hammer drill. It houses the "heart" of our striking mechanism - the engine. In addition, this part contains a power button, structures that absorb interference, and a power cord.
The mechanical part includes the percussion mechanism itself, the gearbox and the cartridge. These are the main details of this part. Sometimes new mechanisms are added to improve the model: different modes of operation, a vacuum cleaner and other additions.
Identifying faults
As noted, some problems can be identified immediately. The main thing is to understand in which part of the puncher the problem was formed.
If you smell a burning smell, the instrument has become too noisy or heats up quickly, there is a grinding noise or smoke already appears, then these are signs that your repair tool is not working properly.
If you understand that the problem is in the electrical part, then be careful. Check that the rock drill is de-energized otherwise, the repair of such a tool is dangerous not only for itself, but also for your health.
When the hammer drill refuses to turn on, the breakdown is electrical and you should check for broken wires. In this case, first determine where exactly the wire broke, then replace it or shorten it at the break.
If the perforator is loaded too much, the extinguishing mechanism may burn out.... Then you will have to replace all burnt parts.
Take breaks from work to prevent this. For example, stop the appliance after every 20 minutes of continuous operation.
If something sparkles inside, then most likely the problem is in the brushes.... They either do not fit tightly to the anchor, or moisture got there and they began to oxidize. Then the best solution would be to replace them.
If the water has already hit the anchor, then you will have to carefully dry everything, but so as not to spoil the winding as well. To do this, use a cotton swab and alcohol.
An additional sign of brush problems is smoke.... This means that these devices are worn out, and the wires are in contact with the anchor. In this case, the brushes should be replaced with new.
Besides, smoke may mean that there is a malfunction in the motor - it sticks, heats up and smoke comes out of it. Malfunctions in the mechanical part are in most cases determined by ear. Noise and grinding noise are the main symptoms of a problem in this part of the hammer drill. Fixing troubles here is much easier and safer for your health.
The most common sign that a problem has occurred is a decrease in productivity. Often it is because of the breakdown of the switch that the hammer drill stops hammering. It is worth replacing the power button for further work.
Another possible reason for the deterioration of the level of performance can be the contamination of the device. To correct the problem, the instrument must be cleaned and lubricated.
To prevent a malfunction, after each use of the tool, it is necessary to wipe at least its surface from dust and pieces of brick.
In addition, there are often problems with the striking mechanism itself. But to determine the exact cause, it is necessary to examine the entire part as the problem can be in the drill or in the small iron ball inside the chuck. Therefore, to repair the percussion mechanism, one should look for the cause in the entire mechanical part of the device.
Disassembly algorithm
Do not forget that the hammer drill can only be repaired in a de-energized mode! Due to the similarity in the internal composition of the main part of the hammer drills, the tool disassembly scheme is approximately the same. To start disassembling the device, if no external faults are observed, it should be from the cartridge.
- rubber boot;
- retaining ring (using a screwdriver);
- plastic boot;
- washer;
- plate;
- spring;
- small metal ball.
When the last four parts are worn out, the barrel cannot stay in the chuck and begins to fall out. To fix this, it is necessary to replace the broken part, and clean and lubricate the rest of the parts.
The next part in the parsing algorithm is the body... The first thing to do is remove the switch. To do this, it must be transferred to the "Impact" state, indicated by the drawn hammer. Then, holding the button on this mechanism, turn until it clicks.
To complete the removal, take a screwdriver, use it to pry the switch and remove it. In order to get to an electrical fault, it is worth removing the plastic case.
Replacing the button and brushes
The malfunction of the brushes and the need to replace them is indicated by a pronounced burning smell emanating during the operation of the perforator. Brushes wear out for long periods of time, sparkle, and may even start to burn. In this case, they should be replaced.
The brushes are in the electrical part, so after removing the plastic case and disassembling to the brush assembly, you need to get the old brushes out from under the lock and replace them with new ones. Now, some manufacturers immediately put spare brushes in the kit, which simplifies the task for the average user.
It is much easier to change the switch button, but it does not come with an additional kit. It is enough to disconnect the damaged button in the disassembled case, and put a new one in its place.
Sometimes the problem with the switch is not so serious, and some experts advise you to simply rotate the button 180 degrees and continue to use. But this life hack only helps if the problems are minor.
The device and repair of the percussion mechanism
It has already been mentioned that rock drills differ in the location of the engine in them. And, therefore, such devices will have different repair schemes.
In a pistol hammer drill, the motor or rotor is horizontal. And the most common cause of failure is bearing wear or seizure. The wear problem can be solved by replacing parts, but bearings in each rock drill are often individually arranged.
The peculiarity of the barrel rock drill is the vertical position of the rotor. In such instruments it is often necessary to check parts for wear and replace them, otherwise it will feel like the punch has broken.
Particular attention should be paid to lubrication, since the hammer drill is a powerful device, and parts become unusable much faster due to the lack of a sliding coating.
Elimination of other breakdowns
In addition to problems with buttons, brushes and impact mechanism, there are a number of other malfunctions that can be repaired and repaired at home. And this will also require the ability to disassemble the puncher.
Stuck drill
If the drill does not hold in the chuck, then it is worth paying attention to the small metal ball. Replace it or the retaining spring... If the drill gets stuck, the problem is not enough lubrication.
When the drill is not inserted or pulled out, the problem lies in the small details. Disassemble the mechanical part and see the cause of the breakdown. As in the case when the drill is dangling in the chuck, this may be due to a defect in the ball.
Stopped working
If your hammer drill starts to hit worse, it is possible that the problem is in worn gear teeth on the moving part of the engine. This could be due to heavy loads or interruptions in the operation of the coupling. As with other defective parts, they must be replaced.
Or there is a malfunction of the switch buttons, then it is worth checking the integrity of the wires.
The drill does not hold
If at work you feel that the chuck does not hold the drill, this means that the hammer drill is defective, and the best option would be to turn it off as continuing to work is hazardous to health.
The problem is most likely not in the drill, but in the chuck.... As in previous cases, the only way out is to disassemble and determine the cause of the breakdown.
The ratchet is triggered
This ratchet is called a clutch, it protects you from breakage and is a warning signal that the hammer drill is reaching its limit. But this signal does not prevent you from continuing to work, you just need to take breaks and give the device a rest. Usually, such problems only occur in cheap devices..
If you need to repair a hammer drill, this means, at least, that you already have it. Although it is quite possible that you are still only studying the weak points of its design in parallel, and which nodes in it can theoretically fail.
Well, let's try to help you. In this article we will explore:
- Perforators device.
- The most loaded parts and assemblies of the tool.
- Disassembly and assembly.
- Measures to prolong the life of the hammer drill power tool.
Rotary hammer device
Studying the principle of operation of a percussion drilling tool will not only broaden your technical horizons, but first of all will allow you to competently carry out its maintenance and, if necessary, repair. To make it easier to understand the processes occurring during drilling in hard materials (and this tool is designed to do just such work), do not be too lazy to watch these two short videos. The first clearly shows the operation of a rotary hammer with a longitudinal engine.
The second video demonstrates the design of a rotary hammer with a transverse motor.
So, let's start with the most important thing: concrete, brick, stone, the tool destroys shock wave arising at the moment of very short contact of the striker with the butt of the drill (through the striker). The energy of the shock wave is transmitted through the drill (impact drill) and breaks the bonds (forms microcracks) between the grains of the minerals that make up the stone (concrete, brick). The spiral grooves of the rotating drill are used to remove the breakaway particles of material from the hole.
(Hence the conclusion: there is no need to press hard with a perforator on a concrete wall, it will not drill faster - only you will get tired yourself, and the tool will break faster.)
The striker is made of high-strength steel and moves freely enough inside the piston cylinder. A rubber sealing ring seals the gap, preventing air from freely passing into the gap between the cylinder and the hammer.
The outer race of a rolling bearing, set at an angle on a shaft rotated by an electric motor, reciprocates, forcing the piston cylinder to move back and forth. When the cylinder is moved forward (towards the drill), the striker remains in place by inertia, the air between the striker and the rear wall of the cylinder is compressed and pushes the striker towards the end of the drill.
In fact, this air serves as a damping element that prevents deformation and destruction of the cylinder of the rock drill. In a tool with a transverse engine, the cylinder is stationary, and the vacuum and compression of air behind the striker is created by a piston driven by a crank mechanism.
The most loaded parts and assemblies of the hammer drill
Based on the foregoing, the impact mechanism and gearbox experience maximum loads during long-term operation. Part of the kinetic energy of the striker is converted into thermal energy, and heats up the entire assembly. The O-ring constantly rubs against the inner surface of the cylinder and, if there is a lack of lubrication, wears out, over time allowing more and more air to pass from the working area.
The energy of the compressed air becomes less and less - the hammer drill no longer chisels as needed. When self-repairing a perforator, sometimes it is enough to simply replace the lubricant in the gearbox, piston cylinder and the rubber sealing ring on the drummer.
During prolonged continuous operation or at the time of normal drilling under a high load, the electric motor can easily overheat and burn out. Although the latest models of the tool have an electronic control unit that includes motor overload protection. Oh, the power cord, electronics and power button, if you wish, you can read in the previous article.
Disassembly and assembly of the rotary hammer
When trying to repair a hammer drill with your own hands, first of all, you need to disassemble it. To do this, remove the rubber tip, the annular spring, the casing of the drill fixing clutch. The retaining steel ball is removed. By turning the operating mode switch to the extreme position, pressing the fixing button on it, the switch handle is removed.
The rear handle pad is removed, the electric motor brushes are removed. 4 screws are unscrewed (from the side of the drill) and the entire front part of the tool (gearbox housing) is removed, containing the barrel, gearbox, percussion mechanism and operating mode switch.
The rotor of the engine is removed. The two screws securing the stator are unscrewed. 4 terminals are removed from the stator contacts, then it is removed from the case. Removable switch (button + reverse switch), brush holder, noise filter and power cord.
If it is necessary to repair the perforator in the part of the percussion mechanism and the gearbox, 4 screws are unscrewed from the end of the gearbox housing, then the outer plastic casing is removed. It is better to do this in an upright position. Then, in the inner case, all parts will remain in place.
After replacing the defective part, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Parts that have turned out to be "superfluous" should be wiped dry and taken to the repair shop along with the hammer drill.
Measures that prolong the "life" of the hammer drill
All activities boil down to the following:
- Please read the user manual and the instruction manual of the instrument carefully.
- Strictly follow the instructions specified in the instructions.
- Change the lubricant of the gearbox and hammer regularly. Exactly replace, since there is no point in adding new grease to the used old one - metal dust serves as an excellent abrasive, "eating up" everything in its path.
- Lubricate the drill shank before use.
- Inspect the motor brushes regularly and replace as needed.
- Clean the outside of the tool every day after finishing work.
- Try not to work in clouds of dust - it is harmful not only for the hammer drill, but also for your lungs. Ventilate your work area by opening all windows.
- Do not go there, where you do not understand anything at all - entrust the service to a professional, or, if you have already undertaken to repair the puncher with your own hands, then do it slowly, remembering well where you put what.
We wish you success!
Anyone who has ever had to work with a hammer drill knows how difficult its operating conditions are. That is why do-it-yourself punch repair is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything regarding the repair of this tool.
What do you need to know about hammer drill repair?
Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be of high quality, to do their job 100%. First of all, correct use of the tool will save you from serious damage, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, the device was repaired on time. At the same time, any small failure should already become a cause for concern and preparation for repair.
So, such "beacons" can be:
- Unstable work of the punch in the working mode;
- The appearance of strange sounds when turning on the punch;
- The smell of burning;
- The hammer drill does not hammer, although there is no apparent reason for this.
As soon as something like this happens to your equipment, it means it's time to repair. Like any such work, it requires care, understanding the cause of the breakdown and knowledge of how to cope with it. And your very first step in repairing is disassembling the tool into its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything down to the nuances - how, what and why!
We disassemble the perforator step by step - quick search for breakage
Just imagine that your tool suddenly stops working or you urgently need to replace any defective part. The easiest way is to take it to a service center for repair, but this takes time, which means it will stop your work for a while. But if you know how the device is disassembled, it will be much easier for you to carry out the rest of the work. In addition, this will lead to significant cost savings, because there will be no need to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.
Instructions for parsing the tool:
- We start work, starting from the upper unit: first, the rubber tip is removed, then the washer, the spring, the ball finishes working.
- After you have removed the ball, unscrew the screws that hold the case, remove the handle cover, if available, and lastly disconnect the stator wires.
- We remove the brush holder.
- The next step is to separate the gearbox and housing until a gap forms. It is through it that we will retrieve the switch.
- After that, the punch body is placed vertically, with the help of a vise, it is fixed, and all its parts are carefully removed from the device.
Whatever breakdown awaits you, clean the case - sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.
Punch repair yourself step by step
You should be as prepared as possible to repair a device such as a hammer drill, which will keep financial and labor costs to a minimum. It's not bad if you are more or less familiar with the construction of a punch, you know what parts and assemblies it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace a broken part. Most often, the repair of a perforator is reduced to a banal replacement of the "flying" elements, which include:
- Anchor;
- Brushes;
- Gears;
- Starters;
- Bearings;
- Network cables;
- Switches.
It is worth noting that it is easiest to repair light-duty tools, given that such a hammer drill is perfect for carrying out construction work at home. But breakdowns of more serious equipment are much more difficult, and only professional craftsmen can handle them. In any case, no matter what class of tool you are interested in, find a model with a vacuum cleaner - this device will save you time for cleaning, and also make your work safer, as it reduces the amount of dust.
Another problem is the breakdown of the windings, rewinding of the armature and starter, which also arise from dust. Repair consists in thorough cleaning and replacement of those parts that cannot be repaired. However, "prevention" is a more reliable method. To do this, you need to clean the device every two weeks, soak it with varnish or grease. By the way, the choice of a lubricant must be carefully considered. So, there are several rules. First, it is better to purchase a solution from the same manufacturer ( Bosch, Makita, Enkor), as the perforator itself, in this case, in terms of its composition, oil or varnish will be ideal. If such a composition is not at hand, a diesel engine oil is perfect for you.
The second most popular cause of breakage is brush wear, no matter how much your tool costs - even the most expensive models are prone to this problem. It is very easy to replace them: we disassemble the perforator according to the above described scheme, find worn brushes and put new ones in their place. You just need to correctly determine which of them is best used: coal, graphite or carbon-graphite. So, graphite ones have a long service life, however, due to the hardness of the material, the collector may suffer. Carbon elements have a short life, but they have high-quality contact with other parts of the hammer drill. The purchase of the third option is considered optimal and inexpensive.
There are also problems with the mechanical elements of the device. Each model is equipped with switching modes, and they often fail, especially on cheap devices. The algorithm of work is the same - we disassemble the puncher, find the broken parts, replace them. The main thing is to purchase items suitable for this model. A similar problem often "haunts" cartridges that are exposed to maximum stress. First of all, protect them from dust and dirt by rinsing the elements with grease. But if the cartridge is still broken, we will have nothing to do but change it.
Now you know how to fix a hammer drill and see that most of the breakdowns come down to simple cleaning or replacing defective parts. But if you disassembled the tool, and there are no apparent reasons, it is better to take the device to a service center - specialists will quickly find the cause and eliminate it.
How to work or how to protect the device from damage?
Prevention is an effective method that will allow you to avoid many breakdowns in the operation of the device. In this case, it implies correct use. You should start with how to insert the drills correctly: we firmly grasp the chuck and pull the spindle axles. When the hole has widened, you can install the drill by lowering the chuck. If you are going to work in impact mode, be sure to lubricate the shanks with a lubricant, choosing it by manufacturer, but there is also a universal solution from the company Lithol, which also earned a lot of positive feedback from users.
In order not to break the drills, remember a few rules for working with materials. So, for example, you cannot use the shock mode if you have to work with metal or wood products.
To be safe and secure when drilling concrete, use a safety sleeve. And all due to the fact that reinforcement can be in concrete structures - the drill will simply get stuck in it. If there is no clutch, use low speed, and do not grip the handle very tightly - if suddenly the tool gets stuck in the armature, you must quickly release it from your hands, otherwise bruises and bruises cannot be avoided.