The article will be useful to a person both planning this work for the first time and having the “bitter” experience of labor intensity.
I was faced with a problem - to drill through a thick wall consisting of several layers, namely: a concrete block 200 mm thick, a sleeper 240 mm, plastered with 80 millimeters on each side, plus there is a provision between the block and the sleeper " air bag» 100 millimeters, no less. I may be wrong with the dimensions somewhere, but having measured the thickness in doorway, the wall was 730 millimeters.
There’s nothing scary about it, it’s work and work, installing a water supply in the room attached to the house and that’s all, but the difficulty lies in the drilling different materials, plus drilling is available only on one side, from the extension.
In fact: plaster, block, sleeper, plaster. In addition to the hammer drill, you will also need a drill with a wood drill bit.
Orders of this kind occur quite rarely, once every five years, so to speak, and accordingly, a rarely used tool will be needed.
To drill holes for polypropylene pipes twenty (diameter = 21 mm) I need:
1. a drill for a hammer drill with a diameter of at least 22 mm (or better yet 25, remember that polypropylene expands for hot water supply?), and a length of at least 300 mm, this is the thickness of the plaster and concrete block. Have you ever drilled a sleeper with a drill?.. you'll be shocked...;
2. a wood drill, of the same diameter, at least 650 mm long, here I take into account the thickness of the conventionally drilled plaster and block, plus the “air cushion” and plus the sleeper itself;
3. a drill for a rotary hammer with a diameter of 12, a length of more than 730, here is the full thickness of the wall (do we remember that you can only drill on one side? Yes, and the horseradish holes towards each other will coincide with two, and if you measure thoroughly, then the slope is any will be different).
Drill the wall directly with a drill large diameter It’s very labor-intensive and time-consuming; it’s much easier and faster to drill a thin one and then expand the hole with a larger one along the guide. I use this method up to several passes with different drills in increasing order, depending on the resulting diameter required. The “old-fashioned” method, very effective, saves a lot physical strength, and what is relevant in my case is the time - the work at first glance is “the cat cried”, all it takes is to remove two tubes, BUT the wall...
So, I went to the store, not familiar with the prices for the tool I need? The price tag for hammer drills, along with the length and increase in diameter, grows not just proportionally, but catastrophically, however, the same applies to screw drills.
Here are some screenshots with price tags:
Normal, right? And this is here in the provinces! I wonder what the cost is in regional and capital cities?
An alternative to a long screw drill is a feather drill, the condition of suitability is that you buy an extension cord, one is missing, you take two, luckily connecting them together is as easy as shelling pears. That's exactly what I did, I already had one extension cord.
As a result, I received the required tool at a reasonable price, but you can’t explain to the customer that the tool is expensive; to put it mildly, he’s not interested. Visibility is only two half-inch tubes installed, but how you did it is your problem. The point is that an identical order, as I wrote above, will probably go through in the next five-year period, and the instrument will lie idle.
Step by step how I drilled:
1. from the side of the attached room, using a hammer drill with a 12 mm drill, I drilled through the plaster and block;
2. widened the hole with a 25 mm drill;
3. drilled the sleeper with a 25 mm feather drill;
4. then, again installing a long thin drill, I drilled through the plaster at the exit;
5. with a 25 mm drill, on the other hand, I expanded the diameter towards.
Conclusion:
In order to (one-time, or not one-time) drill concrete wall, say a meter thick, and a diameter of 32, it is not necessary to buy an expensive drill, but you will need one meter of millimeters 12÷16 in diameter. The second in increasing order may be 25, but already half a meter long, and the next passage is thirty-second, but again half a meter long, you drill them towards them. This is how I, for example, convey the idea in an accessible way, with variations depending on the occasion.
And one more thing: with feather drills, the option of gradually increasing the diameter does not work, you drill immediately with a wide feather, the price for them is a pittance in comparison with drills, and the walls are wooden large thickness did not met.
Two useful additions, naturally based on personal experience:
First:
When installing pipes, in addition to water supply, I also install sewerage if necessary. It’s no secret that the diameter of the pipes here is larger, from 40 to 150 millimeters; I don’t have a drilling rig with diamond bits, so I fulfill orders using the same hammer drill.
I proceed as follows: I mark a circle of the required diameter on the wall, drill holes along its perimeter with a thin long drill, then, using the same principle that I highlighted above, I expand the diameter of each hole to the maximum available in the arsenal. Then, replacing the drill with a spatula and switching the hammer drill mode to chiselling, I get rid of everything unnecessary. So... I agree the work is not pleasant, but this is just one of the disadvantages during installation. It should be borne in mind that this process is relevant for a small wall thickness, say a maximum of 300 millimeters, but for a much larger thickness you present the customer with a fact: ordering a drilling rig is a device, as noted above, using bits with diamond tips. The operation is not cheap, but with all the “breadth” of choice... the customer pays, then we come in with the installation.
Second:
Let’s say you carry out the first step yourself: you drill a concrete wall, trying to get a hole with a diameter of 140 millimeters, and you have a “surprise” in the form of reinforcement (usually in the walls panel houses).. You can’t take it with a drill, electric arc welding can help, in the absence of a grinder, which is problematic to use, access is difficult, you have to puff, creating access... in short, I don’t advise you to bother.
Exit: cut by welding or gas cutting. There's no such thing? Find it! As in that saying: “It’s better to lose a day, but then fly in five minutes!”
Questions, additions: in the comments column, but that’s all I have for today, with respect
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Drilling a hole with a feather drill
At first glance, when the question arises about how to drill a hole in wood, most people have no doubt: just think, wood is not metal and can be drilled easily. Yes, this is partly true if you want to make not a hole in the wood, but a banal hole. And in order to drill a hole in wood correctly and efficiently, you need to listen to the advice of processing experts wooden structures, who are also called wood modelers.
Rules for drilling holes in wood
The rules are definitely simple, but following them will help you save your time, nerves and Consumables as wooden blanks and ready-made parts. So, what you need to pay attention to:
- Before drilling, you need to accurately mark the location for the hole.
- Choose the right one cutting tool. This refers to drills for working with wood, countersinks, pen drills with a drilling depth limiter and annular cutters of the required diameter.
- When drilling, the tool (mostly a drill) must be held strictly vertically.
- Use drills designed for specific materials only.
- Wooden parts must be firmly secured in a vice.
- The cutting tool should be pressed firmly, but with uniform force.
Techniques for drilling holes in wood
Countersink hole for screw head
Let's start drilling simple holes for a screw or. Usually these holes are small in diameter and drilling them is not difficult. The only thing you need to do is to countersink the hole before drilling, that is, turn the surface of the wood under the screw head. To do this, firmly fix the wood and use a countersink to make a recess in it slightly larger than the height of the head of the screw or self-tapping screw. After this, firmly pressing a drill of the required diameter to the surface, drill the hole you need.
There are situations when you need to drill a “blind” hole for a tenon joint. To do this, you need to use a feather drill with a limiter, which is placed on the drill according to the size of the drilling depth
It is more difficult to make holes in large diameter wood, since the use of conventional cylindrical drills chips the surface of the material, damaging it appearance. To successfully cope with this task, feather drills and annular cutters are used.
Drilling with feather drills
Feather drill
For successful work when drilling feather drills secure the wood firmly in a vice and press the tip of the drill bit against the surface of the material. Then drill (at low speed) the hole until the tip of the drill appears at the bottom of the wood. Stop drilling and remove the feather bit from the hole, then turn the wood over, clamp it in a vice and drill the hole on the other side. This will prevent the block from splitting when drilling.
Drilling with an annular cutter
Wood annular cutter
An annular cutter is used for drilling holes in wood with a diameter greater than 38 mm. Drilling begins with a small-diameter guide drill, structurally connected to the cutter in one piece. This guide serves as a guide for the annular cutter.
Here are some tips from professionals that will surely help you when drilling holes in wood:
a) for vertical drilling, you can install a square parallel to the drill;
b) if you often have to do carpentry work, purchase a special stand for a drill, which allows you to hold the tool strictly vertically and controls the depth of the holes;
c) be sure to use a vice when drilling to avoid splitting the wood;
d) so that the outlet hole does not have chips, place an unnecessary block under the wooden part and drill them together. This is especially applicable when making holes in a thin board;
e) if you do not have a drilling depth limiter, wrap the drill in the area of limitation with bright electrical tape or masking tape.
We continue to understand the equipment with which you can work on wood. In general, wood can be drilled with different drills; in the last article we looked at its effectiveness and figured out how and where it is recommended to use it.
There are a great many types of wood drills and it often happens that they are ideal for some jobs, but not suitable for others at all. That's why House master must understand what and how to drill into wood. Today's article will be about a screw drill, also called a twist drill.
It is for wood and will help out in cases where it is necessary to drill a deep hole. For example, you have a log house through which you need to stretch water pipe or bundle of cables. And only a twist drill can cope with thick wood. Of course, nothing prevents you from trying to use a regular one, however, as I already said, it is inconvenient to drill with it and it is not a guarantee that you will be able to complete the job.
As you can see, the tip is made in the form of a fine thread, which helps to screw the drill into the initial stage drilling. The ejection of chips occurs due to the screw edges (like any drill or brace), so drilling is easy. The shank is most often 6-sided, so the tool is securely mounted in the chuck of a drill or screwdriver.
It is necessary to work with such a drill at low speeds, so it is best to use one with speed control or a powerful screwdriver with a high tightening torque.
But it is best, if possible, to use a low-speed drill with a speed of up to 800 (I recommend a rebir drill).
The most common use of such equipment is the fastening of logs. Workers who assemble log houses often come to our store and they buy “spirals” with a diameter of 25-28-30 mm and a length of 450-600 mm. As you know, in order to fasten the logs of a log house together, you need to drill them from above and insert iron reinforcement into the hole made. It is very important that the hole is drilled deeply, which is why a long drill bit is needed.
The standard range of lengths is as follows:
— 220 mm
— 450 mm
— 600 mm (the most popular).
To make holes with a diameter of 30 mm to a depth of 600 mm in wood, you need a very powerful power tool, so we recommend using a drill of at least 1000 Watt (and that is unlikely to be enough), as well as screwdrivers with a torque of at least 36 Nm. Of course, the most preferable option is a low-speed drill, which has a power of 1200 Watts; for such work you can’t imagine anything better. It is very powerful and easily pushes such a thick drill bit through solid wood.
The prices for such “consumables” are quite high, at least it is much more expensive than feather and Forstner drills. For example, 22*600 costs around 300 rubles. And the thickest ones come with a price tag of a piece of rubles. They are taken only when you need to drill a hole in the log house for sewer pipe and so on.
However, if you consider that the drill is powerful and heavy, and it is used to perform specific work, then you should not worry about the price. Because anyway, nothing else can drill through 3 logs at once.
All photos from the article
If you need to make a large diameter hole in a tree, you will have to use special devices, each of which has its own characteristics. We'll look at everything possible options and we will tell you about their main advantages and disadvantages so that you can choose best option in accordance with the specifics of work in a given situation.
Criteria for choosing a quality option
Below we will look at the main types of devices, but for now we will outline the criteria that any option must meet, regardless of its modification:
| Reliable manufacturing material | Of course, it is unlikely to be possible to determine this criterion by eye, so it is best to ask the seller for a quality certificate for the product. Unreliable counterfeit versions from China most often do not have any documents. |
| High quality performance | Carefully examine the product: the surface must be smooth without flaws or defects, the cutting part must be carefully sharpened. If you are purchasing a wood drill long length– check if it is even, this can be done by eye or by rolling it over flat surface– any violations are immediately visible on it. |
| Good packaging | Low-quality fakes are most often packaged haphazardly, moreover, there are mistakes in the words. No one famous brand will not allow yourself unsightly packaging, remember this. |
| Price | Price is also an indicator of quality; as a rule, the most budget options do not last long, especially if we're talking about about drills and fixtures big size. After all, they are subjected to very high loads during operation. |
Advice! To be sure to purchase quality product, be it, you need to contact the official representatives of a particular brand or buy products from well-known stores that care about their reputation and do not sell cheap fakes.
Types of products and their features
Let's look at what options you can find in our retail network and how they differ from each other.
Feather drills
The most common and a budget option, which are quite convenient to work even for inexperienced craftsmen. And you can also master this simple process with your own hands.
Let's look at the main advantages of this solution:
- The diameter range varies from 10 to 60 mm.
- The work is done quite quickly, but the quality of the hole is low, to achieve perfect result Not sure it's going to happen.
- The maximum drilling depth is approximately 150 mm.
- Products are sold either in sets of 5-6 pieces or individually, so you decide which option is right for you.
- If necessary, you can buy an extension that clamps the drill and increases its length by 300 mm.
Large sizes are usually sold individually, small sizes are usually sold in sets.
You can't help but touch on this interesting option Like an adjustable pen drill, this type of product can make holes ranging from 22mm to 76mm in diameter. The work is carried out at low speeds using fairly powerful power tools.
For high-quality execution even such a simple procedure as drilling holes in wood products requires correct mode and the corresponding tool. When choosing a wood drill, you should take into account the characteristics of both the material being processed and the hole that needs to be made. On modern market There is a wide variety of drills designed for making holes in wood, so choosing a tool to solve certain technological problems will not be any particular problem.
Main types
The main parameter, depending on which wood drills are divided into different kinds, is the design of the working part. Based on this feature, wood drilling tools may fall into one of the following categories.
FeatherDrills of this type are used to make holes of medium diameter in wood - up to 25 mm. It is advisable to use such a tool in cases where the requirements for the accuracy of the geometric parameters, as well as for the quality of the holes, are not too strict. Among the most significant advantages of pen drills, low cost and ease of maintenance should be noted.
Core type tools are designed for drilling large diameter holes. In my own way design Wood crowns resemble a metal glass with a shank, the working end of which has cutting teeth. When such a drill rotates, its cutting teeth, interacting with the workpiece, cut out a circle of the required diameter on its surface.
Spiral
Spiral wood drills are also called screw drills. Their working part resembles a screw. They are used for drilling small diameter holes in wood. Due to the special design of screw-type drills, chips are effectively removed from the processing area when used. The screw drill also provides high accuracy and exclusively high quality processing being performed.
These are tools with the help of which, in products made of wood, they create not through, but blind holes with a perfectly flat bottom. In addition, if you use such a wood drill with additional accessories, can be drilled into wooden product square shaped hole.
With the help of such tools, it is possible not only to drill wood, but also to make grooves of various configurations in wood products. Drill of this type most often and used in cases where it is necessary to perform complex processing wooden parts, and in order to drill a regular hole, use a twist drill, a pen or core tool.
Milling drills are designed for drilling a round hole and then boring it to the desired shape. Used when working with wood and thin metal
The shank of drills designed for woodworking is usually cylindrical, but manufacturers also produce them with shanks of other configurations. So, on the modern market you can buy drills for woodworking, the shanks of which can be:
- triangular, optimally suited for fixation in a three-jaw chuck (tools with a triangular shank are ideally transmitted torque, and even very significant loads are not able to turn it in the chuck);
- hexagonal (tools with such shanks can be installed in both a standard and a three-jaw chuck, but there is a very high risk of the drill turning when subjected to heavy loads);
- conical (tools with shanks of this type are used primarily to equip production equipment);
- tetrahedral (a rarely used form of shanks, which, however, ensures high stability of the tool against rotation in the chuck).
Areas of use and design features
As mentioned above, in order to drill a quality piece of wood, it is very important to choose the right drill bit. When making this choice, it is necessary to take into account both the characteristics of the material being processed (in particular, its hardness) and the type of hole that needs to be made. That is why it is very important for home craftsmen and specialists whose activities are related to the processing of wooden blanks to understand both the varieties and functionality wood drill.
Twist (screw) drills
A twist or screw drill can be produced with two types of working tips: conical and with special scoring tips. If we compare both types according to the degree of their effectiveness, then it is almost at the same level. However, they differ in the load taken by the tool during wood processing. Thus, in the design of the working head of a drill with a scoring tool, there is a jumper, which causes significant loads to be transmitted to the entire body of the tool. They do not have this drawback, which, in addition, are much better centered on the surface of the workpiece. The conical head immediately enters the material, and the drill does not move to the side. Meanwhile, spiral drills with scoring tools, due to their design features, allow you to create holes in wood with higher precision.
Drilling wood using a spiral tool allows you to get precise and neat holes with straight edges and a smooth surface on the inner walls. Tools of this type can be used for drilling wood of any species and almost any hardness, as well as materials made on its basis (chipboard, MDF, plywood, etc.). If the drill is driven into the material being processed at a low speed, there will be no need to frequently remove the tool from the hole being created to remove accumulated chips.
When designing and making drills screws, much attention is paid to their geometric parameters. This, in particular, includes the angle of inclination of the helical groove, as well as the ratio of the dimensions of the elements of the working part in the cross section. The angle of inclination of the helical groove and the degree of roughness of its working surface influence the efficiency of chip removal during processing. The cross-sectional geometry of the working part determines strength characteristics drill.
The most vulnerable from the point of view of breakdowns are long wood drills, the diameter of which does not exceed 3 mm. The risk of failure increases when incorrect selection drilling modes, as well as careless use of the tool. All long wood drills should be handled with great care. A long drill, the cross-section of which can be any size, is used to create holes whose depth is 20–30 times their diameter.
The category of spiral drills also includes Lewis auger drills, used to make deep holes of significant diameter in wood. The structural elements that make up such auger drill, is a massive spiral (screw) encircling central rod tool.
In order for such a drill to plunge into the material being processed in given point, on its working part there is a threaded tip. Since the outer surface of the screw is processed to mirror shine, the inner walls of the hole being made are also perfectly smooth. One more distinctive feature The design of this woodworking tool is small angle the inclination of the groove, through which chips are removed from the processing area.
Spiral type tools designed for drilling wood are available in a wide range of working diameters. If you need to drill large-diameter holes, you should carefully select the equipment with which the drill will be used. In these cases, it is necessary to use a low-speed device, and not a regular drill, which is not designed to work with large-diameter tools.
Feather type drills
For making deep holes of large diameter, the dimensional accuracy and quality of which are not too demanding high requirements, you can use inexpensive feather-type drills. They are produced in the range of diameters 10–60 mm and various (including significant) lengths. If the lengths feather drill not enough to execute in tree deep hole, it can be extended using a special extension. However, when using such a device, which allows you to increase the processing depth by another 30 cm, extreme care should be taken, since the junction of the tool and the extension is not very rigid.
When drilling holes in wood using feather drills, you should also not apply strong pressure to the tool, which is a rather fragile structure.
Forstner drills
Only a Forstner drill can cope with such a difficult technological task as drilling holes with a flat bottom in wood products. His cutting edges located on the rim and side surface. Thanks to this design feature the fibers of the treated wood are trimmed before the main drill blades come into contact with them, which helps to obtain a hole with straight edges and a smooth inner surface.
