The plasterboard ceiling was chosen due to the fact that the floor slabs were laid unevenly and there were 5-7 centimeters of height differences between them. This type of ceiling perfectly hides this drawback, moreover, it is beautiful and rather unpretentious in operation.
Installation of a plasterboard ceiling can be divided into three stages:
- Installation of the frame of the future ceiling.
- Sheathing of the frame with plasterboard.
- Putty and painting of the new ceiling.
Before starting the installation of the frame, you need to calculate and purchase the required amount of materials, as well as prepare the necessary tools.
For the frame, we need the following materials:
- wedge anchor for attaching hangers to the ceiling, for each hanger there are two wedge anchors;
- straight suspensions - they are attached to the ceiling and hold the bearing profile;
- PP extension bars for profile. Necessary if you have to splicing bearing profiles together, when the profile is shorter than the required length;
- PP 60x27 profile is the main profile. We will attach drywall sheets to it;
- profile PN 28x27 - is attached to the walls along the perimeter of the future ceiling and holds the profiles on the walls;
- nail dowel - fixes the PN profile to the wall;
- crabs - for splicing the bearing and transverse profile;
- screws "klopiki" - to connect all these parts into a single structure.
In addition, the following tools will be needed: - a hammer, tape measure, pencil, chopping cord, puncher, screwdriver, winder drills, metal scissors and a level, preferably a laser.
Installing a horizontal profile
The installation of the frame begins with cleaning the ceiling and removing old coverings such as foam panels or wallpaper. The lagging putty must also be cleaned off so that it does not fall on the new ceiling in the future. Then we begin to mark the horizontal level of the future ceiling.
Attention!!! The place of attachment of the profile must be marked taking into account the electrical wiring laid in the wall! If, nevertheless, during work you damage the wire, you need to put a small junction box at the breakage site, and fasten the wires with reliable connectors.
After you have marked the place of passage of the wiring, according to the level, in the corners of the room we put marks of the future horizon of the ceiling, taking into account the fact that during the installation of the profile you will not damage the electrical wires in the wall. Then, with a chopping cord, we connect them together. Exactly horizontal straight lines are obtained, relative to which we attach PN profiles to the wall. The profile is applied to the wall, exactly above the line left by the chopping cord and the drill, a hole 3.5-4 cm deep is drilled through the profile, after which the dowel is driven into the wall through the profile with a hammer. The holes are drilled at a distance of 35 - 40 cm from each other. As a result, you should get a horizontal belt from the profile around the entire perimeter of the future ceiling.
We mount the supporting frame
Next, we mark the ceiling for the suspension mounts. It must be remembered that in this case, the drywall sheets are attached to the ceiling along the long wall of the room, and not across. For my room, I marked the ceiling as follows. I drew a center line in the center and from it on the right and left sides I drew parallel lines every 60 cm. As a result, 5 parallel lines were obtained, which in the future will be the center lines of the bearing profiles. On each line, stepping back 25 cm from the wall, after 50 cm, mark the places where the suspensions will be attached to the ceiling. After that, we drill holes for the dowels with a puncher and nail the suspensions to the ceiling.
A little advice- to improve sound insulation, a washer made of hard cardboard can be placed between the anchor and the hanger. This will reduce the transmission of sound from the concrete to the ceiling frame.
Now we begin to fix the bearing profile on the suspensions. To do this, we insert one end of the PP profile into the groove of the profile fixed on the wall and level, keeping exactly the horizontal position of the profile, fix it with screw screws to the suspensions
It is necessary to control the horizontal installation of the profile on all planes, including relatively parallel fixed profiles.
For ease of control, you can stretch the rope across the room, fixing it on the lower parts of the profiles installed on the walls. If you suddenly notice that the profile is bent, or is not secured correctly, unscrew the screws in the bending points and re-drill them taking into account the level.
The next step in creating a plasterboard ceiling will be the installation of transverse profiles. They are cut from the PP profile and connected to the load-bearing profiles using crabs and klopik screws
fastening the profiles together. The first transverse profiles are fixed at a distance of 15 cm from the wall, and then every 50 cm.
As a result, you should have a design like this.
We sheathe the frame with plasterboard
So, the frame is ready and now we begin to sheathe it with sheets of drywall.
The sheets are fastened along the bearing profiles in such a way that on one section of the profile, it would be possible to fix the edges of two parallel sheets of drywall. Sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern and are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws for metal, embedding the caps in drywall by 1 mm.
A gap of about 5 mm is left between the sheets in order for the putty to hold securely in the seams.
Small areas can be sewn up with drywall scraps.
Putty the ceiling
After the entire ceiling is covered with plasterboard, all joints are primed and carefully leveled with a special joint putty. The caps of the self-tapping screws are also putty, but without soil, so that over time they do not start to rust.
After the seams are dry, the entire ceiling is primed and the first layer of plasterboard putty is applied. After the first layer has dried, the protruding fragments are removed on the ceiling with a spatula, and a second, thinner layer is applied, which evens out irregularities and fills in small recesses. After the second layer has dried, the ceiling is cleaned with a fine emery mesh and covered with water-based paint. Now your room has a new DIY plasterboard ceiling.
By substituting the dimensions of your ceiling in the online calculator, you can find out the amount of materials required to level the ceiling with plasterboard with a single-level metal frame device.
The decoration of the ceiling area traditionally plunges the home owner into the abyss of doubts and contradictions. Today the variety of materials and technologies, design possibilities are so diverse that it is rather difficult to decide on something specific.
Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard ceilings
Drywall is one of the materials marked by the high popularity of the Russian population. Undoubtedly, have plasterboard ceilings and disadvantages, because nothing ideal exists in the world. Let's remember them without secrets so that your decision to hang drywall over your head is conscious:
- lack of elasticity (unlike PVC ceiling films);
- rather high flammability (in case of fires, drywall supports the flame);
- incompatibility with water (drywall is contraindicated in basements, bathrooms, etc.).
However, new technologies from manufacturers delight the user with the fire resistance and water resistance of some modifications, addressed specifically for rooms with high humidity and high fire factor. Stores offer standard, moisture resistant and fire resistant drywall.
Advantages:
Tools and materials for the work ahead
Prepare your tools ahead of time to avoid distractions and fuss. The list of names for different masters is somewhat different, because in the repair and construction business, as you know, a lot is decided by skill, the ability to use what is, not to depend on frills. Nevertheless, there is the main thing, without which the upcoming work is unlikely to be successful:
- drywall;
- suture tape ("serpyanka");
- guide profiles;
- powerful dowels for fixing profiles to walls;
- ceiling profiles;
- self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to profiles;
- roulette;
- construction knife;
- a hammer;
- ceiling suspensions;
- anchor bolts for attaching hangers to the ceiling;
- docking crabs;
- goggles, dust mask (respirator);
- laser or hydro level for measuring the entire room;
- bubble level (ideal if its length is 2 meters) for measuring areas;
- screwdriver;
- perforator with a drill (it will be required for dowelling the profiles to the walls and ceiling);
- scissors for metal.
This is the minimum you cannot do without. Also, the list may include additional elements, taking into account the peculiarities of the "native" ceiling in the room. For example, if the composition of the floors is rough concrete, in which there are hard stones that interfere with the normal drilling of holes for fastening screws. Or, let's say you want to install a complex multi-level ceiling. Then you need clamps and fasteners to connect the bearing profiles at different heights. Etc.
Frame preparation - measurements and fasteners
We work with a guide frame
Step 1. Find the lowest corner in the room by measuring all angles for this, and ideally also the center. We use a tape measure. In the corner, which will be the lowest, put a mark:
- 7-9 cm from the ceiling if you plan to install built-in lamps;
- by 4-5 cm if there are no built-in lamps.
Step 2. We arm ourselves with the water level and mark all other corners at the same height as the first mark at the very bottom corner. Then, using the hydro level, we put several marks along the walls at the same level as the first point at each corner, connect them together - draw with a pencil or chalk.
Use a ruler, a perfectly straight block, or a taut cord to keep the line straight. A simpler option is without tracing, but point-to-point mark the guide line for attaching the profile.
Step 3. Fix the guide profile to the walls. If joining seams are assumed on the girders between the corners (and this cannot be avoided in large rooms), it is necessary to insure further "passing" of adjacent fragments under the weight of the entire ceiling structure. We use pieces of dense material - plywood, tin or plastic - and, placing them over the butt joint, attach to the walls using high-strength dowels.
Sometimes in such situations, they use a special sealing tape, but it is not always at hand, and not in all regions stores sell such goods. We do the same (sealing and fastening with dowels to the wall) at the corners of the profile.
Video - Installation of a frame made of profiles and hangers
We work with the main ceiling profile
Step 1. The most common dimensions of drywall are 1.2x2.5 m (we will say this is the standard). It is recommended to install ceiling profiles every 0.4 m - in this way, each sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle. Therefore, we mark the ceiling with a bright pencil or chalk lines with 40-centimeter steps.
Step 2. In the places of the transverse joint of the sheets (that is, every 2.5 m) we install jumpers from the same profile. With non-standard sizes of drywall, respectively, we calculate the distances individually for a specific size. We fix the joints with "crabs".
Step 3. Determine the location of the suspensions: a distance of 25 cm from the first wall, then every 50 cm, and so on until the end of the ceiling zone. Suspensions are attached to the ceiling using anchor bolts (the dowels are not suitable, because they have no thread and under the weight of the structure, over time, they will inevitably be slowly pulled out due to their attraction to the ground).
Step 4. We attach the ceiling profiles to the hangers. We start the procedure from the corners of the room. Our wireframe is now complete.
Initially, remember the important nuances: plasterboard is sensitive to deformation, temperature and humidity changes during storage. Store it only in a horizontal position, and before the start of installation work, the material should "mature" for a couple of days in the room where it will be installed - this adapts the structure of the drywall to local temperature and humidity conditions.
Sequencing:
- we calculate the material consumption in advance;
- we cut the necessary parts for those places where it takes less than a whole sheet;
- with a construction knife, we remove the chamfer at the edge so as to further ensure good penetration of the putty into the gap;
- we begin to fasten the sheets to the ceiling profile from the wall and from the corner, place the screw from the edge by 10-15 cm and 20 cm from each other;
Attention! We must "sink" the screw caps in the slots, check by touch. On adjacent sheets, we place the screws not opposite each other, but at random;
- we make sure that there is a small gap around the perimeter (1.5-2 mm);
- make sure that sheet to sheet is joined with a shift of at least one cell;
- we make sure that each sheet is attached at the edges and in the center.
The final stage
Special attention should be paid to the seams, because the appearance of the future ceiling depends on the quality of their sealing.
Important points:
Remember to use protective equipment when working with dust, primer, putty and paint. Wear goggles, respirator, mask. Precautions will keep you healthy and heighten the joy of the plasterboard ceiling you install yourself.
A plasterboard suspended ceiling can be found in many houses and apartments today. We will talk about how to mount such a structure with your own hands in this article.
First of all, you need to draw a drawing of the frame on paper or on the wall, with a separate frame and a separate layout of the gypsum board sheets. Consider the layout of the sheets - along or across, this will help save materials. In the drawing, you can determine the locations of the suspensions so that they do not fall into the junction of the main and bearing profiles.
For marking, we use a level or a chopping cord.
Assembling the frame
Along the perimeter on the walls, we fix the guide profile 28/27. The profile is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.6 mm. Glue a sealing tape to the base of the profile. She, being an element of sound insulation, dampens vibrations and to some extent protects the plasterboard sheathing from cracks.
The step of fixing the profile is 50 centimeters, i.e. 6 dowels are needed for one profile 3 m long.
Do not screw drywall to the guide profile!
The main profiles will go from the window. Place all the profiles on the ceiling and connect them at the same level.
We fix the suspensions, starting from the corner and the window. The first line of suspensions is fixed at a distance of 10 cm from the window, then 40 cm and then a step of 50 cm. The longitudinal step of the profile will be 120 cm, in the width of a drywall sheet.
The length of a standard profile is almost always less than the length of the ceiling, so we use extension cords.
We fix the connector (or simply “crab”) at a distance of 120 cm from the wall.
We mount the supporting ceiling profile 60/27 with a step of 50 cm, but fix the supporting profile closest to the wall with an indent of 10 cm, the next one at a distance of 40 cm, and all the others - 50 cm.The edge of the supporting profile, which is inserted into the guide profile, is NOT fixed ...
At this stage, it is very important to attach a luminaire diagram and make sure that the luminaires do not hit the frame. After all, a suspended ceiling is rarely without lamps.
Major mistakes:
- using the wrong profiles;
- use drywall 9.5 mm thick;
- the frame of the suspended ceiling is assembled according to the principle "the narrower the stronger", i.e. take a step between the main profile over the entire surface of 30-40 cm.
- the bearing profile and the GKL sheet are fixed with screws to the guide profile (PN);
- the seams are not properly sealed: using the wrong putty, poor reinforcing tape and not making a cover layer.
If you plan to hang heavy chandeliers, then the step of the supporting profile should be 40 centimeters, in other cases - 50 cm.
In the places where the profiles adjoin the walls, we put marks with a pencil, so it will be easier to navigate where the bearing profile passes. When fixing the gypsum board, there is a risk of overshooting. And under the guide profile we glue the separating tape, after puttingtying the abutment, it ensures the sliding of the GKL sheet when the structure moves from the settlement of the building.
Often, apartment owners want an illuminated ceiling. Multi-level drywall structures allow you to get it. The process of creating such structures is similar to the creation of conventional suspended structures, but requires a more responsible approach at the stage of calculations.
Sheathing: sheet mounting technology
We proceed to the cladding, we use KNAUF sheet with a thickness of 12.5 mm. It is impossible to use material of other thickness (exceptions are lateral curved surfaces). To secure the sheets, we use a special lift, which greatly facilitates the work on the construction of the ceiling - you can work alone.
It is necessary to screw the screws sequentially from the middle to the edges of the sheet or from the corner to the sides every 15 cm. You cannot fix the sheet around the perimeter in order to pre-fix it.
The edge of the drywall sheet is NOT fixed to the guide rail screwed to the wall.
When trimming a sheet along the edge of the edge, it is imperative to make a bevel of 22.5 degrees.
We spread transverse joints relative to each other.
We prime the edged joints with Tiefengrunt primer.
After the primer has dried, it is necessary to putty the seams, holes of the self-tapping screws, then prime the surface again, and then proceed to puttying the entire surface.
To the guide profile 28/27 (on the wall) neither gypsum board sheets nor bearing profiles are fixed, i.e. walls and ceiling should not be tightly connected! GKL is used with a thickness of 12.5 mm. When trimming sheets, a 22.5 degree bevel is made at the edge. The sheets are fixed at a distance.
Video
This video will help you properly seal drywall joints:
Do you want to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling on your own, but doubt that you can handle the job? Then this article is exactly what you need. In it, all the works are described in great detail so that any person can understand them. You just have to repeat the steps and you will achieve great results.
Workflow steps
To carry out the installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, you need to know and clearly follow a certain sequence of actions.
The technology has been tested over the years and includes the following stages:
- Preparation of materials and tools;
- Marking the position of the guides and their fastening;
- Frame construction;
- Fastening drywall to the frame;
- Sealing joints on the surface;
- Ceiling plaster and painting.
Stage 1 - preparation of materials and tools
This is the preparatory part of the work, in which you must collect everything you need. Even before purchasing everything you need, you must measure the room in which the work will be carried out, this will allow you to accurately calculate the required amount of materials.
To begin with, let's figure out from which elements the suspended plasterboard ceiling is assembled.
| Material | Selection recommendations |
| Drywall | The most commonly used ceiling version is 9.5 mm. But you can also use wall elements with a thickness of 12 mm, their price is higher, but the surface will turn out to be more reliable. For rooms with high humidity, it is better to use a moisture-resistant version, it is easy to distinguish it by the green color of the protective paper layer. The required amount is calculated according to the area of the surface to be trimmed. |
| Guide elements | The number of the guide profile is calculated based on the length of the walls around the perimeter of the room. The elements are 3 meters long. Choose options made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm |
| Main Profile | The number of bearing profiles is calculated as follows: the width of the room in meters is divided by 0.4 (this is the step of the arrangement of the elements). They must also be made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm. |
| Fasteners for drywall | This includes straight hangers, profile connectors, and hardware products. Of hardware, you need dowel-nails, self-tapping bugs and self-tapping screws for metal for fastening drywall |
| Insulation | If you need to insulate or soundproof the surface, then mineral wool is laid under the frame |
If you want to ensure the best sound insulation of the structure, then a special acoustic tape is placed under the wall profile and suspensions. It dampens vibrations passing through the structure, and thus reduces the noise level in the room by half.
Now let's figure out what materials the ceiling surface is leveled with:
Putty "Vetonit" is an excellent solution for leveling the ceiling
| Material | Selection Tips |
| Putty | Choose a composition that has high plasticity, fits well on the surface and is easy to rub. All these requirements are met by the products of the Vetonit company. I use it and have never been disappointed in the quality |
| Sealing compound | To strengthen the joints, you need to use high strength compounds. The most popular solution is Knauf Fugen. It is a gypsum-based mixture with high strength and crack resistance. |
| Primer | To strengthen the surface, it is necessary to treat it with a special deep penetration compound. The most popular are acrylic-based options. |
| Serpyanka mesh | It is necessary to strengthen the joints. The most commonly used version is 45 mm wide with a self-adhesive layer. |
| Dye | Used for surface finishing. Use any compound suitable for application to the putty surface |
Now let's figure out the tool with which we install our own plasterboard suspended ceilings:
- Perforator for drilling holes for dowel-nails;
- Laser or water level to mark the plane. The usual level for structural control. Roulette and pencil for measurements and marking;
- Shears for metal for cutting a profile. The simplest manual option is also suitable;
- Screwdriver with PH2 nozzles for screwing in self-tapping screws;
- You can cut drywall with an ordinary construction knife;
- A container and a drill with a mixer are needed to prepare mixtures;
- For application, use a narrow (10 cm) and wide (30 cm) spatulas;
- To level the surface, use a float and sandpaper or mesh with a grain size of P150 or less;
- The primer and paint are applied with a roller, abutments and hard-to-reach areas are brushed.
Stage 2 - marking the position of the wall profile and its fastening
This is the first part of the work, where the following steps are performed:
- The lowest point of the ceiling slab is determined. The level of the suspended structure must be 50 mm below this area. If you install recessed lamps in the ceiling, then the indent will be at least 80 mm, otherwise the equipment simply will not fit;
- Then you need to make a markup around the perimeter of the room. If you work with a water level, then you need to make a mark in one corner, and then, transferring the other end to other corners, mark the entire room. After that, lines are drawn between the points. If you have a laser level, then everything is simplified: you just draw a line along the mark;
- Next, the profile is cut into pieces of the required size, applied along the line, and the attachment points of the elements are marked. If there is no hole 10 cm from the edge, then it must be drilled and the location of the place for drilling on the wall must be marked. Drilling is performed with a hammer drill with a 6 mm drill. In order not to check the depth of the holes, stick electrical tape or tape on the drill as a guide;
- If you will fix the profile through acoustic tape, do not forget to stick it on before installing the guide elements. The self-adhesive side is pressed against the base of the profile and glued evenly along the entire length. Do not forget to cut holes at the locations of the dowels;
- The profile is attached to the surface, after which dowels are inserted into the holes. The screws are simply driven in with a hammer. At this point, the fastening can be considered complete.
Stage 3 - construction of the frame
The installation of the frame consists of the following steps:
- First, you need to draw lines every 40 cm. These will be the guidelines for the location of the ceiling profiles. That is, from center to center of each element should be 40 centimeters;
- According to the markings, suspensions are attached to the ceiling, they are located perpendicular to the line at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is better to place the mount in a checkerboard pattern so that each next row is not in line with the previous one, but with an offset. You can glue a sealing tape under the hangers if you used it on wall guides;
- If the length of the room is less than three meters, then the excess part of the suspensions is cut off with scissors. If the length is longer, then you need to increase the racks to the desired size. Please note that the extension is done using special connectors. They allow you to maintain the ideal geometry of the racks and ensure their reliable fastening;
- The profile fits neatly into the guiding elements and is positioned in the middle of the line. After that, you need to fasten the structure on both sides with the help of self-tapping bedbugs. Two elements are screwed into each connection, it is better to use fasteners with a sharp tip;
- The hangers are bent to the profile, after which you need to check the position of the element using a level. If everything is fine, then you can start mounting. Everything is easy here: from both sides it is screwed into a suitable hole by a self-tapping screw. The excess ends are simply bent to the sides, they will not interfere with you;
- Jumpers are placed if the frame is made in 60 cm increments. They are positioned every 50 cm and fixed with crabs, this is the name of the cross-shaped profile connector. The work is simple: the elements of the required size are cut and screwed to the crab with self-tapping screws;
If it is necessary to insulate the surface, then mineral wool is laid under the frame. You do not need to fix it, it will hold on perfectly anyway.
Stage 4 - fixing drywall
At this stage of installing the ceiling, you need to carry out the following work:
- A chamfer is cut from the side ends of the sheets. It is better to do this in advance than to work on the ceiling later. The work is carried out with a knife, the butt is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees to a distance of no more than 5 mm;
- Fastening starts from any corner of the room. The work is done by three people, two are holding the sheet, and one is grabbing it with 3.5x25 mm self-tapping screws. You will not be able to cope with the installation yourself, so be sure to involve assistants. In order not to stand and not hold the material in outstretched hands, you can use mops or knock down a similar structure from the rails;
- Fastening is done every 15 cm at the edges of the sheets and every 20 cm in the middle. The distance from the edges should be at least 15 mm so as not to crush the material. Leave a gap of 2-3 mm at the junction of the drywall sheets, the same distance should be at the junction with the walls;
Remember that the self-tapping screw must be correctly positioned on the surface. The cap should be recessed by 1-2 mm, and not stick out above the surface and not push the sheet. A diagram of the correct location of the fasteners is shown below.
- Thus, the entire surface is sheathed. Here you need to pay attention to the correct location of the screws on the joined sheets. It is better if they are not located opposite each other, but with an offset. An example of correct installation is shown in the diagram below.
Stage 5 - sealing of joints
Collecting plasterboard suspended ceilings with your own hands is still half the battle. It is necessary to properly finish them so that the surface is perfectly flat and does not crack after a year or two. Connections of elements are the most problematic areas where cracks are most often formed.
To avoid this, it is worth strengthening them qualitatively:
- First of all, you need to clean all the joints from dust. Just rub them with a dry cloth or brush them;
- Then the joints are treated with a primer. The composition is applied at a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Pay special attention to the ends of the sheets, try to apply the primer so that it gets into the joint;
- After the soil has dried, a serpyanka tape is glued to the seams. Everything is simple here: the material is gradually unwound and pressed against the surface. It is important that the mesh adheres over the entire area and does not stick out anywhere. You can cut it off with scissors or a knife, you should not tear the material;
- A mortar for joints "Knauf Fugen" is being prepared, it does not need to be done much, since it sets in half an hour. The mass is applied to the joints and pressed with a spatula to fill all the voids. Excess composition is carefully removed with a spatula, the mass should completely cover the serpyanka mesh;
- The caps of the self-tapping screws are also sealed with small strokes. After the end of the work, no joints or fasteners should be visible;
- After the composition has dried, it is necessary to rub the surface with a float more to remove sagging and irregularities. There is no need for special quality, it is important to remove all noticeable flaws;
- Lastly, the surface is primed over the entire area. This strengthens the already applied compound and balances the absorbency of the substrate over the entire area.
Stage 6 - putty and paint
Now let's figure out how to align the drywall ceiling with our own hands.
The instructions for carrying out the work look like this:
- First of all, a putty composition is prepared. To do this, water is poured into the container and the required amount of dry mixture is poured (the proportions are always indicated on the package). It is important to mix the components with high quality so that a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained;
- Application is made from any angle. The composition is spread over the blade of a wide spatula and gently spread over the surface. The tool is held at an angle of 15 degrees to the surface and is guided with moderate pressure. Do not pay attention to the influxes, they will be eliminated later. The main thing is to distribute the composition in a thin layer over the entire ceiling;
- After the first layer has dried, you need to walk over the surface with a spatula and cut off the beads, if any. Your task is to remove all noticeable flaws so that they do not interfere with the final leveling of the surface;
- The second coat is applied very carefully, try to level the surface as best as possible. Move the spatula in a sweeping motion. If there are influxes somewhere, it's okay, they can be easily eliminated. It is important to level the overall level of the ceiling so that there are no pits and scratches on the surface from the edge of the trowel;
- After the surface has dried (and this takes about 24 hours), you can start sanding it. The work is messy, so stock up on a respirator and goggles in advance. Sandpaper is placed on the grater and surface treatment begins section by section. You need to rub with moderate pressure in spiral movements;
- The plane is checked using a light bulb or flashlight. The directional light immediately shows all the flaws, and you can easily bring out a perfectly flat surface, even if you are doing this work for the first time;
- If flaws remain in places, then the problem areas need to be putty, after which they are sanded with a float. After that, the surface can be considered fully prepared;
- The ceiling is cleaned of dust with a brush or vacuum cleaner, after which a primer is applied. The composition is applied with a roller to the entire surface, this will strengthen the finishing layer and improve paint adhesion;
- Painting is done after the soil is completely dry. Depending on the color, it may be necessary to apply 2-3 coats of the composition for an even color.
In the process of creating a functional modern interior, the installation of a plasterboard ceiling plays a special role. A simple, but at the same time aesthetic and practical design, allows you to significantly reduce the time of work, mask surface defects, and hide communications. You can install the ceiling with your own hands, observing the installation technology.
Plasterboard base - what's included?
Before starting the installation of the plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare the basic materials.
Considering that the structure consists of a frame, finished with plasterboard sheets, for its device you will need:
- metal profiles;
- fastening elements;
- drywall plates;
- finishing materials.
Metal profiles are the basis of the structure. These should be high-quality elements made of galvanized metal in two versions: guides and ceiling bearers. To connect the profiles, a straight U-shaped suspension is used, connectors of two types: straight and cruciform. In addition, to assemble a drywall ceiling with your own hands, you will need galvanized connecting screws and dowels.
The frame is finished using plasterboard ceiling sheets with optimal parameters: 2.5 meters long and 1.2 meters wide. The thickness of the sheets ranges from 8 to 9.5 mm.
Classic plasterboard ceiling painted in gray. By color and thickness, it can be distinguished from wall sheets, which are usually thicker. In rooms with increased moisture or a risk of fire, special sheets of plasterboard are used, marked "moisture resistant" or "fire resistant".
Calculation of materials for the ceiling - how to do it right
In order for the installation of drywall on the ceiling to go as smoothly as possible and without interruptions during operation, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of material for consumption for creating a structure. To do this, first of all, the ceiling area is calculated in the standard way - multiplying the width by the length of the room (measured with a tape measure).
To calculate the required number of guide profiles, you need to find the perimeter of the room. To do this, add up the lengths of the walls. At this stage, it is important to measure each of the walls separately in order to eliminate possible errors in the process of calculating the required number of profiles, since the lengths are not always the same.
To calculate how much material the installation of a bearing type profile will require, it is enough to remember that the first and last elements are mounted at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, when the distance between the other profiles is no more than 60 cm.The number of the bearing profile is found by multiplying the number of rows by the length ceiling.
The supporting profile is fastened with U-shaped straight hangers with a step of one meter. Determining the required number of suspensions is simple if you divide the total length of the profile by one meter.
To increase the rigidity of the frame between the guides and the supporting profiles, special jumpers will be required with a step of 60 cm. The number of cross-shaped connectors for jumpers is found by dividing the length of the supporting profile by the fastening step. As for the second type of connectors - straight ones, their number is calculated taking into account the length of the room, since the elements are fastened along the length of the profiles.
The last stage - fixing drywall sheets also requires accurate preliminary calculations. To finish the frame of the ceiling structure, you will need exactly the same number of plates, which is equal to the area of the ceiling. Compensation consumption is also taken into account, adding from 3% to 5% of the material to the total amount.
Markup is a responsible start
Regardless of the complexity of the design, the initial stage is always marking. Only with the marking can it be considered that the technology for installing drywall on a pre-arranged frame is fully observed.
Begin by determining the lowest horizontal point of the ceiling surface. The easiest way to do this is using a laser level or, in the absence of one, a conventional water level. In a certain place they put a mark - this will be the height of the plasterboard ceiling. It is important that it is at least 3 centimeters below the lowest side of the base. This will be the bottom of the guide profile. In the case of a planned illuminated ceiling, the line is lowered a few centimeters lower.
Do the same with the rest of the walls. On each of them they put a corresponding mark, again, using the level for reliability. It is important to ensure that there are no air bubbles inside the level during measurements.
The final stage of marking is the connection of the marked points with the help of a chopping thread into a solid line and marking the lines for attaching the suspensions to the ceiling surface with a step of 0.6 m.
The main stage of the process is the assembly of the frame
There is nothing difficult in assembling the frame with your own hands, if you follow the step-by-step instructions.
They start with the installation of the guide profile along the marked line around the perimeter of the room. U-shaped suspensions are fixed on the ceiling surface. Carrying profiles are cut (1 cm shorter), according to the marking, they are fixed in the guides, additionally strengthening the structure with self-tapping screws.
At the next stage, the suspensions are bent and attached to the profile, pulling the thread in order to avoid sagging of the bearing elements.
As soon as the longitudinal elements are finally fixed, the crossbars are cut and fixed with crabs.
The classic scheme for mounting a profile implies that the joints of the hl are in the middle of the profile, which will only work if there are a number of crossbars at a distance of 2.5 meters from the wall, which acts as a starting point for the installation of hl.
Plasterboard finishing - the final stage
Sheets of drywall are attached to the finished frame with self-tapping screws. It is more convenient to fasten the sheets without preliminary cutting, thus reducing the number of joints and seams. In order to properly mount drywall, it is necessary to measure its quantity in advance, prepare sheets on a horizontal surface. The more accurately the installation is performed with the drowning of the heads of the self-tapping screws into the surface of the hl, the smoother the finished ceiling will turn out. 
An important stage is filling the joints and seams between the sheets. A responsible approach at this stage will prevent the appearance of cracks on the ceiling during operation. For reliable fixation of the seams, a reinforcing tape is used, on top of which a layer of putty mixture with a leveling property is applied. As soon as the surface dries, it is additionally smoothed with sandpaper.
In places of contact with the wall, the installation of the HL is performed using a sealing tape. Fasten it before the sheets are fixed. Remove the tape only after filling the gaps with a putty mixture. The finished ceiling is primed, treated with putty, sanded, re-primed and only then painted with paint. 
How to install a curved ceiling
The classic installation of ceiling plasterboard on a frame for a curved ceiling is somewhat different from the previous installation option. In order to install a non-standard design, the following algorithm is followed:
- The first tier of the frame is mounted in the traditional way, as required by the instructions above.
- Carry out the marking of the guide profiles around the perimeter of the room.
- Profiles PNx28 × 27 are installed along the marking line, fixing them with self-tapping screws and dowels.
- The bearing profiles are fixed in the pre-installed profiles using suspensions and with a step of 600 mm.
- In the areas of passage of the curved profile, the step is reduced to 400 mm.
- Plasterboard sheets are attached to the finished frame so that they extend beyond 10 cm to the curved line of the ceiling bend.
- Sheets are fastened with a pitch of not more than 250 mm.
- After finishing the finishing of the first level, outline the wave line.
- At a distance equal to the thickness of the sheets, a curved profile is attached from the mark (use metal scissors to cut the sides).
- The profile is pulled through the hl to the main frame.
- Any technology from the manufacturer further implies the manufacture of a second level frame. The more levels are planned, the smaller should be the step of fixing hl.
- The finished frame is hemmed with gypsum board with a margin of a centimeter for further work with bending.
- Given the direction of the bend, the lower profile is attached, corresponding to the location of the upper line.
- The upper and lower parts of the curved frame are tied with profile posts, finished with plasterboard in a vertical plane. For curved areas, a 6.5 mm sheet is suitable.
The final stage of the installation of drywall sheets is supplemented with plastic corners designed to mask the protruding outer corners of the arcs. The joints are treated with a reinforcing tape, putty. The surface of the finished ceiling, as in the case of its classic version, is primed, treated with putty, polished and painted.
Features of installing a curved ceiling: what is useful to know
Considering that we are talking about a not quite standard solution for a plasterboard ceiling, there are several important points to consider.
First, the higher level is attached to the frame, which subsequently serves as a supporting base for the curved profiles of the next level frame.
Secondly, the curved element is attached through the already hemmed plasterboard sheet to the underlying base frame. If there is no profile in the fixation zone of the metal arc behind the sheet, then it will be necessary to additionally place a gasket under it to screw in the fasteners, otherwise the sheet may not withstand the load. Trims of fiberboard, profile or plywood are suitable for the role of a gasket.
Thirdly, the profile can be bent in two ways: wet and dry. The first option is suitable for small bending radii, the second will allow you to embody smooth transitions. 
Fourthly, the type of drywall sheets is of great importance. You need to understand that the installation of gvl, suitable for the installation of a ceiling in public places with increased load, is not suitable for the installation of a curved ceiling. To achieve the correct bends of the material, it is better to use sheets with a minimum thickness, additionally piercing the surface with a needle roller.