Dock two 200 liter iron barrels vertically. How to make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels using plastic containers as an example

In a country house that is rarely used, an expensive industrial septic tank is usually not installed. An alternative is wastewater treatment plants made from inexpensive plastic or metal barrels. The article talks about design features similar structures.

Manufacturers offer cleaning devices with varying performance and a wide price range. Many owners of summer cottages prefer to make them themselves. This option is in demand for good reasons:

• saving money - purchasing material at a low cost, including used ones, choosing where it is cheaper;
• use of existing containers on the farm;
• the possibility of using a modular scheme - options for future changes and additions are calculated in advance.

Review by Golodov A.N. At the dacha, I first built a septic tank from barrels for the toilet. Then I connected the bathhouse, kitchen, and washing machine. To do this, I prepared the connection points in advance: I cut the pipes into containers and plugged them for a while.

How does a wastewater treatment plant work?

The homemade design consists of several containers located nearby. They are connected by pipes. Sections are filled sequentially, which is achieved by installing the overflow at different heights. Wastewater treatment occurs mechanically:

• large particles settle in the first barrel;
• the clarified liquid from the filled container flows into the second;
• it can be final and serve to filter liquid into the soil;
• with a three-chamber version of the septic tank, additional treatment occurs in the same way as in the first section.

The bottom of the last barrel is cut out and a backfill of crushed stone, gravel or sand is made, which serves as a filter. Layer thickness up to one meter. The first containers remain sealed.

This is what a two-chamber septic tank with access to the filter field looks like

Removing clarified wastewater into the ground provides optimal results, but if groundwater is close, the method is unacceptable. To ensure environmental safety, a filtration field is installed. These are perforated pipes insulated with geotextiles that are buried in trenches. The exit is made from the last chamber.

The most common and efficient scheme of three sections. If the wastewater is from a kitchen or comes from a bathhouse, washing machine two containers are enough. Such waste can also be cleaned immediately in the last chamber by connecting pipes directly to it, bypassing the previous ones.

Important! The drainage from the toilet must be filtered according to a complete scheme.

Characteristics and cost of materials

Plastic or metal containers are suitable for sewage. To anticipate possible installation errors, you should know about the advantages and disadvantages of materials. A comparison table will help you figure it out:

Plastic		Metal
pros	Minuses	Advantages	Flaws
Light weight, easy to ship and install	It is required to be securely fixed to the foundation so that the spring flood does not destroy the system	Robust design, no additional fastening required
	Frost can compress the container	Tough, not afraid of exposure to cold
Completely sealed		Waterproof if the walls and bottom are intact
Are not afraid of corrosion and the harmful effects of chemicals contained in wastewater			Over time they are destroyed by rust, the service life depends on the reliability of treatment with an anti-corrosion compound

Mostly products made from other liquids are used, which are sold wholesale and individually. Prices for used ones are low. There are few manufacturers of new barrels for the construction of a small septic tank.

It is better to buy unwashed barrels of fuel and lubricants. They form a film on the inner surface that protects against corrosion.

Manager of the Second-Tara company V.N. Martynov

Cost table for 200 liter barrels:

Correct choice of volume and location of construction

Standardized water consumption is 200 liters per day per person. The capacity of the septic tank is calculated for 72 hours. During this time, a structure of three 200-liter barrels processes this volume. With regular use of water in large quantities, this is enough for one person. In fact, consumption is lower and can be reduced by using, for example, a shower rather than a bath. Structures of this type are used mainly for summer cottages with temporary residence or for bathhouses. The volume is increased by installing three chambers rather than two.

The larger the camera capacity, the further its location from the house

The second requirement concerns sanitary rules. Distance from wells or boreholes is 30–50 meters, fruit-bearing trees, berry bushes, vegetable garden - 3 m. To the road - 5 meters.

Preparing everything necessary for construction

Purchase materials. The main ones include:

• sewer pipes 110 mm;
• fittings, turns for the main - the quantity is determined by the project;
• barrels.

It is advisable to buy thick-walled containers in order to achieve a rigid connection with the pipes. WITH thin material The seal may be compromised due to soil pressure.

Purchase other consumables. They take care of the insulation of the chambers in advance to protect them from freezing - they buy thermal insulation. Need seam sealant . It is recommended to use automotive polyurethane, silicone is short-lived. The foundation for a barrel requires cement, sand, and crushed stone. The reinforcement can be made from any iron rods; there is no need to weld, just twist it with wire. Sand is required without clay and organic impurities.

After choosing a location and purchasing materials, construction begins.

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

They start by preparing the containers. In one filtration chamber, cut out the bottom using a jigsaw or grinder. All chambers are connected by pipes, so holes with a diameter of 110 mm are cut out in the sidewalls. The entrance hole to the first container is located higher, all the others are 10–20 cm lower than the previous one.

If you plan to build a filtration field, then two holes are cut in the last barrel at an angle of 45° to one another. This is where they are subsequently connected. drainage pipes.

The depth of each trench exceeds the previous one by 10 cm

Having outlined circles whose diameter is 25 cm larger than the size of the barrels, they begin to dig a pit. All containers are placed on the same line with a distance of 30 cm between them. First, dig a hole for the first barrel.

The bottom of the first sealed pits is covered with a 10 cm thick layer of sand and compacted. Next, the reinforcement is laid, slightly raised above the surface. The ends of the rods are bent and brought above the expected thickness of the concrete. Barrels are then tied to them, or the second option is used, when the hooks are filled with solution.

Advice. An alternative option is threaded rods. Hooks are made from them, metal plates are secured with nuts in a straight section, and fixed in cement mortar.

The last chamber is filtration. It is covered with a 30 cm layer of river sand, and on top - crushed stone or pebbles, expanded clay. The total thickness is adjusted to 0.8–1 m.

Start assembling the barrels:

1. Install containers in pits. They are fixed to the foundation using one of the methods described above and insulated.
2. Cover with removable lids. They serve to pump out wastewater when necessary.
3. Ventilation is constructed above the barrels from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The minimum quantity is above the first one, but it is better to supply everything. Then bad smell will not be heard.
4. The containers are connected by pipes, observing the slope. All joints are coated with sealant. If it is automotive, the surface can be painted.

Hatches are raised above the surface to a height of 20 cm

Fill the pit with dry sand and cement. It is important to guard against mistakes. To prevent it from being crushed, add a little water into the barrel, fill the space layer by layer with the mixture and tamp it down.

Features of installation of metal barrels

It is easier and cheaper to purchase iron containers, especially if they have been used before, than plastic ones. Installation is almost no different, the procedure is the same. Larger volume chambers are constructed from metal barrels, stacked one on top of the other. Will need welding machine and the ability to own it so as not to attract outside help. Stiffening ribs are installed at the connection points. Their absence sometimes leads to squeezing of the container, especially with thin walls.

The volume of the septic tank is doubled by placing one barrel on top of another

You can use plastic pipes by sealing the seams with sealant. To cut holes, it is better to use a jigsaw and a metal file. Bulgarian is more difficult to achieve round shape. Before installation in pits, protect the surfaces on both sides with bitumen or anti-corrosion paint. It is advisable to remove rust earlier. Anchoring the containers is not necessary, but it is better to do it - it is not difficult and easier than with a plastic barrel.

Answers on questions

Question No. 1. Is it necessary to secure the filtration chamber, since there is no foundation at the bottom?

It is better to fix it to avoid being squeezed out by frost or soil waters. It is done in a slightly different way. 3-4 iron rods are driven into the bottom. A barrel is tied to them with belts.

Local sewage system with its own treatment plant will allow you not to break away from civilization in populated areas without basic infrastructure. If you make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels as a cleaning object, the cost of improvement will be minimal. But for a successful result, technological subtleties are needed. Isn't it true?

We offer everyone who wants to acquire an autonomous sewerage system on their own property useful information, thoroughly covering all aspects of its construction. The practical application of the information we provide is a guarantee of long service life and flawless operation of the system.

Presented to your attention interesting article introduces various constructive types homemade septic tanks. It describes in detail the technology for constructing a sewage treatment plant from waste barrels. Construction methods are illustrated with simplified graphics, photos and video applications.

Despite the fact that manufacturers offer enough wide range, design and construction of homemade septic tanks (for example, from barrels) is quite relevant.

The hand-held device option is in demand for the following reasons:

• the ability to reduce costs to a minimum by purchasing components, as they say, randomly - where it is cheaper, and secondly, using existing means at hand;
• installation of equipment can be carried out according to the so-called modular scheme, having previously calculated options for adding and complicating the system.

Let's say you first equip a toilet. In the future, you connect a bathhouse, a kitchen sink, even a garage sink to the cleaning system. Of course, this will be easily feasible only if the “tie-in” points are prepared in advance - pipe bends brought to the surface or close to it, reserved for a time.

The construction of a septic tank from barrels will allow minimal costs organize an autonomous sewage system with disposal of neutralized and clarified wastewater

No one knows the weak points of the treatment system and its capabilities better than the master who built the septic tank. Although you should not allow shortcomings, only he will take them into account during operation.

It is no secret that manufacturers and sellers of any equipment, as a rule, do not inform buyers about the shortcomings, “stressing” only the advantages. An independent builder will know that he can let him down.

Knowing the approximate norms of water consumption by the family, taking into account the frequency of residence and the characteristics of the area around the house as a whole (type of soil and groundwater level), you can avoid both unnecessary expenditure of effort and money, as well as “accidents” caused by poor throughput of the purification system.

A septic tank made from barrels operates on the principle of multi-section settling tanks, which, as a result of overflow and settling, ensure the separation of wastewater into water and sludge. After leaving the septic tank, clarified and purified up to 65% water is discharged into the ground, and sludge accumulates at the bottom of the sump until it is pumped out by sewer trucks.

You will learn the intricacies of constructing a septic tank that operates without emitting odor and does not require pumping from our other website.

Types of designs and schemes

A homemade septic tank constructed from barrels consists of several containers (chambers) installed in a given order. They are sequentially connected to each other by pipes so that the sections are filled in a strictly defined order. This is achieved by installing cameras on different levels in height.

The operating principle of a multi-chamber septic tank is similar to the operating principle. The entry and exit of pipes into the chambers is made in such a way that water begins to flow into the next container before the water level rises to the inlet pipe.

Gradually accumulating in the chamber, the water settles. The heaviest particles of contaminants settle at the bottom of the tank, while smaller and lighter particles continue their path through the system.

For the free flow of wastewater to the septic tank and from chamber to chamber, the sewer line is arranged with a slope. The slope must be observed in each area, including in the sections between sections of the septic tank

In order for the methane generated during wastewater treatment to be freely removed from the system, it is necessary to arrange ventilation. It is installed vertically at the exit from the house or at the exit of the last section of a homemade septic tank.

In addition, at the drainage of water from plumbing fixtures, sinks, toilets, shower stalls, etc., it is necessary to provide a siphon - at least made in the form of an “elbow” - so that the unpleasant odor does not poison the existence.

The operating principle of a septic tank is based on the gradual separation of solid insoluble components and the liquid component of the wastewater. The more sections the sewage mass passes through, the higher the final degree of purification.

The most common is the three-section septic tank design, used for processing gray and brown waste streams. However, if it is necessary to purify contaminated water coming from a bathhouse or kitchen, using one or two barrel sections will be sufficient.

Purified and clarified wastewater from the septic tank flows into the ground treatment system, for example, it is disposed of through a filtration field

From the last barrel, access is made to the filtration field, which completes the cleaning process. This post-treatment system is an underground structure assembled from perforated pipes - drains.

The drainage pipeline is laid in trenches selected specifically for them, lined with geotexile, on top of which pipes are laid and a sand-gravel mixture is filled.

The function of ground post-treatment of gray wastewater supplied by baths, washing machines, kitchen drains, etc. can be safely entrusted to an absorption well built in the outermost barrel sewer system. In this case, the bottom of the container is cut out, and it itself is filled with gravel and sand so that the layer of this backfill is at least 1 meter.

If the amount of wastewater does not exceed 5–8 m³/day, then a third section without a bottom, filled with a 1 m layer of sand and gravel, can be used as a ground treatment system. Absorption (filter) wells are constructed using this method.

As you can see, the scheme is quite simple, but its implementation in practice will require a lot of physical effort. Particularly labor-intensive work is associated with the development of a pit for sections of a septic tank and trenches for a sewer pipeline.

The calculation of wastewater volume is based on the wastewater disposal rate per person in l/day. A single-chamber septic tank is built with a waste volume of up to 1 m³/day, a two-chamber septic tank is built for 5 – 8 m³/day

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Homemade treatment structures can be divided into groups according to the material from which the chambers are made, these are septic tanks:

• from plastic barrels;
• from metal containers(welded cubes, cylindrical barrels);

A metal tank is more rigid. In addition, it is easier to secure it from floating. But the main disadvantage of iron barrels is their poor ability to resist corrosion.

Septic tank from concrete rings requires the use of special equipment when constructing sewer wells. It is difficult to ensure the proper degree of tightness for a cleaning station made from tires if there is no experience working with such materials.

Usage plastic barrels in the design of a septic tank allows you to do without lifting equipment and without welding work

A homemade septic tank made from plastic barrels has more advantages:

• light weight, which facilitates transportation, installation in the pit and assembly;
• corrosion resistance. This point is important not only from the point of view of reducing the hassle associated with replacing tanks, but also as an additional guarantee of cleanliness on the site;
• the optimal method of construction, because Electric welding is not required for installation of the system;
• the tightness of the containers, due to which there is no need to carry out work on waterproofing the sewerage structure;
• manufacturability of the source material. Polymer containers are much easier to process with cutting tools.

If necessary, minor cutting flaws can be easily corrected using cold welding tools.

Plastic barrels are the easiest to use, technologically advanced raw material for building a homemade septic tank

Basic requirements for placement

In the event that you have to obtain permission to install a septic tank from regulatory authorities (SES, etc.), then carefully study SNiP No. 2.04.03-85. SNiP - “ Building Codes and Rules” is a document similar to the standard (GOST), and it is this one that establishes the basic rules for the construction of external sewerage networks and treatment facilities.

Sanitary requirements are regulated by SanPiN - Sanitary Rules and Norms.

In any case, adhere to the following requirements for distances from the septic tank to the following objects:

• house foundation – 4-5 meters;
• well, borehole – 30-50 m;
• lake, pond – 30 m;
• bushes, trees – 2-4 m;
• road – 5 m.

In front of the device autonomous septic tank or its location must be discussed with the owners of neighboring plots. Although the regulations stipulate a distance from their fence to the septic tank of 2 m, the owners of a nearby estate may not be satisfied with the proximity of the sewer structure.

When deepening the bottom of the structure below 5 m, it will be necessary to obtain construction permits from the local administration.

The greater the volume of wastewater processed in the septic tank, the further it should be removed from the foundation

But even if permission is not required, take into account the characteristics of the site. It makes no sense to install sewerage systems with ground treatment systems in clay soils that do not have the necessary filtration properties.

The lack of ability to pass water will be revealed by the stagnation of flood waters during snow melting and periods of heavy precipitation. This means that the section is dominated by clay soils that do not allow water to pass through or into them.

On clay soils, sandy loams, clays, loams, storage tanks are installed. They are made in plastic containers or groups of barrels. The storage tanks only accumulate wastewater for pumping by sewage trucks, and do not process it.

A similar decision should be made if the groundwater level is close to the surface. Water-saturated soils will also prevent the disposal of the purified and clarified liquid component of wastewater.

If the section of the site is composed of clayey soils that are unable to absorb purified water, the idea of ​​​​building a septic tank will have to be abandoned

Instead of a storage tank, a station can be installed biological treatment. It purifies wastewater by 98%, which allows it to be discharged onto the terrain.

Features and design standards

Having solid experience in constructing such systems, all the required calculations can be made “by eye”. But compilation detailed plan and developing a project, at least in sketch form, can be of great benefit.

Firstly, having determined the installation locations of the cameras and the laying of the highway, you will accurately calculate how much and what materials you need to purchase. If time is of the essence, then before you start work, it is quite possible that you can get some of what you need for free.

And legally - people, as a rule, easily part with things that they consider trash. It has been proven in practice more than once that you can even assemble a car by spending funds comparable to the price of, say, a new bicycle.

Secondly, careful execution of the sketch contributes to the adoption of new decisions and also disciplines. In addition, a well-executed scale drawing can reveal flaws in the original design and save you from unnecessary expenses. It may well turn out that the scheme can be simplified by discarding the superfluous.

When drawing up your plan, consider the following:

• even if you do not need official permission to install a septic tank, try not to disturb the ecology of the site;
• the septic tank sections should be located so that there is at least 5 m between them and the foundation - a distance that prevents soil erosion in the event of emergency flooding of the septic tank and leaks;
• the route of sewer pipes must be designed so that it is, if possible, without turns that contribute to clogging of the pipeline;
• The external line of the autonomous sewerage system must be provided with an inspection well for inspection and cleaning.
• For every 25 m of the sewer main, an additional inspection well must be constructed.

If the site is not pleasing with its dimensions, and the choice of location is a decided matter, then, if necessary, strengthen the walls of the pit.

To the level of seasonal soil freezing, the septic tank and sewer pipeline must be insulated so that ice plugs do not form in it

If it is planned to erect buildings in the future, the functioning of which will require the use of water (bathhouse, sink, any cottage industry), provide places for the “integration” of water drainage from them into the treatment system. Moreover, the discharge of water from the bathhouse can be carried directly into the last chamber of the septic tank, since there will be no large particles of dirt in the wastewater.

If you do not intend to use the services of a vacuum cleaner, do not make the first chamber too bulky so that it can be easily cleaned manually. In addition, provide either the possibility of easy dismantling of the camera or access to its contents for quick cleaning.

For maintenance, control of operation and periodic removal of sludge, the septic tank must be equipped with a hatch. It must rise above ground level by at least 18 cm

If, in accordance with the clayey type of soil, only the installation of a storage tank is possible on the site, then the design should be carried out taking into account the unobstructed passage of sewage disposal equipment.

Preparing building materials for work

The main materials needed to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands include:

• pipes for the main with a diameter of 110 mm;
• fittings, corners, etc., in quantities corresponding to your project.
• the barrels themselves, intended for septic tank chambers. Select their sizes based on the approximate water consumption in the house, based on direct observations.

It is advisable to use barrels with thick enough walls so that the joining of pipes to them is as rigid as possible - otherwise the seam may lose its tightness due to mechanical stress.

To connect polymer parts, it is more convenient to use adhesives that must be compatible with the materials of barrels and pipes

Work out the issue related to freezing of cameras at subzero temperatures in advance. You can use the old village method - place wooden sticks in containers.

At the very least, the ice expanding during freezing will compress the tree, which has “taken” part of the impact. Plastic bottles filled with sand will also help.

But in any case, the thermal insulation of barrels will not be unnecessary - take care of purchasing available materials in the required quantity.

Supporting materials will also be required. You need to buy a sealant to seal the seams. For this purpose, do not use silicone, it will not last long, and even cover it with some kind of protective layer If it doesn’t work, no coating will stick to silicone.

The best option would be to use car body sealant - it has good adhesion (the ability to stick), mechanical strength, and it can be coated on top with paint, mastic, etc. Polyurethane sealant has the best characteristics, but it is quite expensive;

It is necessary to purchase cement, sand, and reinforcement for pouring the bases for the barrels. Sand should not have any special requirements in terms of quality. Let it be with pebbles, no problem, the main thing is that it does not include lumps of loam and organic pollution.

Any steel rods are suitable as reinforcement. Cook reinforcing mesh no need - just fasten the rods with wire.

If, when developing a pit, soil with biological inclusions, lenses and layers of clay soil was removed, then to backfill a pit with an installed septic tank, you will need quarry or river sand

You will need crushed stone, gravel, granulated slag or similar materials to fill the bottom of the pit (pit) before filling with cement;

A plastic barrel is lightweight, and therefore, when the container is not filled, it can be “pushed” to the surface by groundwater. To avoid this, prepare metal hooks, threaded rods - something to “anchor” the barrel.

It is appropriate to use commercially available threaded rods - it is convenient to make hooks from them, on the straight ends of which iron plates can be secured with two nuts, which need to be “sunk” in cement.

Construction of a pit with a concrete slab

How you decide to make the main pit - manually or using an excavator - decide for yourself. Calculate its area so that after installing the barrel in place it is convenient to compact the earth, poured into the gap between it and the wall of the pit. You can also provide for thermal insulation of the container - slag wool, polystyrene foam - in general, whatever will be more accessible.

Before pouring a concrete slab at the bottom of the pit, you need to check whether its depth is sufficient. To do this, you can install one of the barrels in the hole and see if the depth is sufficient for the device concrete base. If everything is in order, you can start filling the bottom of the hole with cement. It is absolutely not necessary to make formwork, but it is advisable to fill it with sand and compact the bottom before doing this.

If there are doubts about the strength of the walls of the pit, then before pouring they must be strengthened with a board. Then it is enough to fill the bottom with a thin layer of liquid cement. After it has dried, you can lay the reinforcement and fill it “cleanly” - leveling the horizon. Don't forget about the embedded parts for anchoring the barrels!

Mix cement with sand - 3 parts sand to 1 part cement. Very convenient to use electric concrete mixer, but purchasing it only for this job (if there are no plans to build something else) does not seem appropriate. It is enough to choose a suitable trough that is convenient for shoveling.

Mix sand and cement first without water - on the contrary, avoiding its premature entry, and then gradually adding liquid, bring the solution to the required consistency. To prepare small portions of cement, you can also work on a sheet of iron or plywood - if there is no trough. Before filling the foundation itself, wet the backfill with water to compact it.

In order to carry out anchoring lightweight plastic septic tank, metal brackets must be placed in the concrete slab being poured

To level the fill, use a tool similar to a mop with a flat bottom. Pressing the sole to the surface, level the solution with light translational movements. This way, by the way, you will achieve better filling of the future site with mortar.

To prevent the mortar from cracking when drying, especially in hot weather, cover the poured area with a thick cloth after the cement has “set” and water it with water. For this purpose, a tarpaulin or similar synthetic fabric is better suited - the important thing here is not wetting the surface of the site, but slowing down the evaporation process.

Start installing the pipes when the barrels are installed, but not completely secured. Only when the entire structure is assembled can its elements be fixed. It is advisable to fill the barrels with water for stability.

All these points are important to take into account due to the fact that the final stage of assembly will be the treatment of the joints of pipes and barrels with sealant - while it dries, it is necessary to ensure the immobility of the structure.

Before applying the sealant, treat the places of its contact with the plastic with coarse sandpaper (No. 80 -100) - for better adhesion and durability of the seam. By the way, you can also install triangular gussets on the same sealant for rigidity, 3-4 pieces per joint, between the barrel wall and the pipe. While the sealant is drying, wrap the scarves with wire, masking tape and so on. – so that they don’t “slip.”

Schematic diagram preparing a pit and anchoring a factory-made septic tank can be used in constructing a sewerage facility with your own hands (+)

After testing the system for water permeability, proceed to the final filling of trenches and holes. Compact the soil gradually, filling the soil in layers. You can throw stones, bricks, etc. into the gap for rigidity.

In those places where filled pipes and holes may be hit by equipment, make a protective flooring of at least boards before filling the surface layer of soil.

Assembly and connection of the structure

So, all materials are ready. The next step is cutting holes in the barrels for the pipes. There is no point in describing this procedure. The only thing I can advise is that you don’t immediately make the holes to size - let the pipes be inserted with force, and if necessary, trim the excess.

Next, you should take care of fixing the pipes in advance, otherwise when filling and compacting trenches and holes, the integrity of the seams can be compromised. Pipes can be fixed using all available means - wire, scraps of boards, bricks, whatever.

Before digging trenches and pits, it would be useful to assemble the entire structure, without fixing the parts, and place everything on the ground. The pipes can simply be placed on the ground next to the barrels. This will help you make more accurate markings on the ground. Having marked the contours of the highway and pits with poles and twine, you can begin digging.

Visual step-by-step guide

The process of constructing a septic tank with overflow from used barrels will be presented visually step-by-step instruction:

Image gallery

Before constructing a homemade septic tank, a pit is developed, the dimensions of which will ensure convenience when performing the work

In the lids of both barrels planned for installing a septic tank with an absorption well, we cut a hole for the sewer pipe flange

We attach flanges to the holes cut in the barrels. If necessary, we modify the cuts

We are still finalizing the barrel intended for the installation of an absorption well - in its upper part we cut out two holes for the insertion of drainage pipes

In the upper barrel, which will be used as a receiving chamber, we cut out only one hole. It should be directly opposite what is cut into the lid

We install the first barrel on the compacted and leveled bottom of the pit. We connect the flange to the hole cut in the lid

To install a second barrel in front of the already installed first one, make a recess

We fill the depression with gravel, which will serve as a ground purification of clarified water coming out of the septic tank.

Step 1: Development of a pit for installation of barrels

Step 2: Forming Holes in the Barrels

Step 3: Fitting the flange to the holes in the barrels

Step 4: Cutting the Holes in the Bottom Barrel

Step 5: Side Hole in Top Barrel

Step 6: Installing the receiving chamber in the pit

Today you can easily purchase a ready-made industrial septic tank or build capital treatment plants yourself. But if you need to organize temporary sewerage or the volume of wastewater in a country house is small, you can use simpler and more affordable solutions. For example, build DIY septic tank from plastic barrels . Such a treatment plant will help make life more comfortable and at the same time cope well with the wastewater treatment tasks assigned to it.

Building a house is quite a long process. In order not to give up your usual amenities during construction, you can build a temporary local sewer system - a homemade septic tank. It can be assembled from two 200 liter plastic barrels.

To build such an installation, you can use old, but leak-free plastic barrels. The use of metal barrels is impractical, since the metal is quickly destroyed by sewage. An installation made from metal barrels will not last long.

A septic tank made from barrels is a simple installation, but it is still more convenient cesspool or storage. Such a septic tank purifies rather than heats the water, so the need for pumping occurs less frequently.

When can you build a septic tank from barrels?

Today there are many different models of septic tanks offered by manufacturers. But they are all quite expensive to build, so in some cases it is advisable not to spend money, but to assemble a septic tank using plastic barrels. The advantages of this option include:

• Cheapness. To construct the chambers, you can use used plastic containers with a capacity of 200-250 liters;
• Simplicity of the device. The construction work of such a septic tank is not complicated.

The main disadvantage of a septic tank assembled from barrels is the limited volume of chambers. The small volume that a septic tank has from barrels is the reason that there will be a need for frequent pumping of sediment.

Advice! It is clear that with a chamber volume equal to the volume of the barrel (200 or 250 liters), the amount of waste should be minimal.

A septic tank assembled from barrels is perfect in the following cases:

• Dachas that are used only as a place for periodic recreation. That is, dachas where permanent residence is not planned;
• Traditional baths (without a swimming pool, jacuzzi and toilet), in this case, the septic tank will not require frequent pumping;
• For construction sheds as temporary installations.

Planning stage

Even the construction of such a simple installation as a septic tank assembled from two barrels must begin with planning. You should choose the location of the septic tank, and also draw up a diagram of the future treatment plant.

Choosing an installation location

Just like any other local sewerage installation, the septic tank should be located at a distance from the well or well from which production is made. drinking water. In addition, the septic tank must be located at least 5 meters from the foundation of a residential building and 1 meter from other structures on the site (bathhouse, garage, etc.).

The possibility of pumping out sediment should also be considered. If a sewage truck will be used for pumping, access to the septic tank must be provided.

Selecting an installation scheme

If the cottage will be used by 2-3 vacationers, then you can choose the following septic tank design:

• Two or three barrels connected in series, the last of which has no bottom and serves as a filter well;
• Each subsequent barrel is located 10 cm lower than the previous one;
• The barrels are connected by overflow pipes. The pipe entering the septic tank is located 10 cm above the exit pipe;

• Under the first two barrels, which are used as settling tanks, there is a sand cushion of sand 10 cm high;
• Under the last barrel, which has no bottom, a 30-centimeter cushion of crushed stone and a 50-centimeter cushion of sand are first made. This layer is used for final purification of water that is absorbed into the soil;
• If the soil waters are high on the site and installing a filter well is not possible, it is necessary to construct filtration fields.

Materials for the construction of a septic tank

• Two barrels made of plastic, 250 liters in volume. If you plan to install a filtration well, you will need another barrel without a bottom. The use of metal barrels is possible if a temporary sewer system is being built that will be used for several months.
• Fine crushed stone – the size of individual elements is 1.8-3.5 cm;
• Geotextiles;
• Sewer pipes having a diameter of 110 mm;
• Drainage pipes for the construction of filtration fields;
• Angles for connecting pipes.

Septic tank installation

Let's look at how a septic tank assembled from barrels should be installed.

Barrel preparation

• It is necessary to prepare a hole for connecting inlet and outlet pipes. In the first barrel you need to make a hole for the incoming pipe at a distance of 20 cm from the top lid of the barrel. The inlet hole is made on the opposite side of the barrel, moving it 10 cm down relative to the first;

• In addition, you need to make a hole in the first barrel for the ventilation riser. It is better to make the lid of the first barrel removable, since it is in this chamber that solid waste will accumulate the most, so it will need to be cleaned regularly;
• In the second settling barrel, the hole for the incoming pipe is made at a distance of 20 cm from the top cover. The outlet pipe is located on the opposite side of the barrel, 10 cm above the opening of the inlet pipe. If drainage pipes leading to the filtration fields are connected to the barrel, then it is better to make two holes in it, located at an angle of 45 degrees to each other.

Pit preparation

• The pit should be larger in size than the barrels. The gap between the walls of the barrels and the sides of the pit should be about 25 cm around the entire perimeter;
• The bottom of the pit must be well compacted, after which a sand cushion 10 cm high should be made;

• If possible, fill the bottom of the pit with concrete mortar. Embedded metal parts with loops to secure the barrels should be installed in the concrete;

Advice! If a septic tank from barrels is being built as a permanently operating installation, then it is recommended to secure the barrels to a concrete slab using bandage belts. If this is not done, then in the spring during a flood the barrels may float and destroy the entire sewer system.

• When preparing the pit, you need to remember that each subsequent chamber was located lower than the previous one. That is, the outlet pipe of the previous chamber should be at the level of the inlet of the next one.

Installation of a septic tank

• The barrels are installed in prepared places, pipes are connected to them;
• Backfilling of containers is carried out using a mixture of sand and dry cement powder. This backfill will protect the septic tank from damage due to seasonal soil movements;
• Backfilling must be done very carefully so as not to damage the joints of the pipes with the chambers;

• Having poured about 30 cm of the mixture, you need to compact it well around the perimeter of the barrel. Then you can start filling the next layer;
• Simultaneously with filling, you need to fill the barrels with water. Filling the containers with water will prevent deformation of the plastic walls when backfilling.

Construction of soil treatment plants

In order for the water settled in settling chambers to be completely cleared of impurities and contaminants, it is necessary to build filtration fields or a filtration well.

Construction of a filtration well

• To construct a filtration well, you can use a barrel without a bottom. Additionally, it is recommended to make holes in the bottom of the barrel;
• Before installing the prepared container, sand is poured into the pit, the layer height is 50 cm. Then you need to pour crushed stone, the height of the layer is 30 cm. The diameter of the backfill layer should be 50 cm larger than the diameter of the barrel in all directions from the side of the barrel;
• After installing the container in place, it should be filled to a third of its height with crushed stone.

Constructing filter fields

• Trenches are dug for laying drainage pipes. The trenches must be prepared so that the pipe lies on a slope. The slope size is 2 cm per meter of length;
• When building a septic tank from barrels, as a rule, the aeration field is constructed from two drainage pipes diverted from the second settling chamber;
• Ditches prepared for laying pipes are covered with geotextile fabric so that the side sections of the material cover the sides;
• A thirty-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured on top of the geotest, on which drainage pipes are laid;

Advice! You can purchase already perforated pipes or make holes in ordinary pipes intended for assembling external sewage systems. In the latter case, you will need to drill holes for water outlet yourself.

• The pipes are covered with crushed stone on top, and then the whole thing is wrapped in geotextiles. The fabric is wrapped so that an overlap of 10 cm wide is formed;
• The last stage of work is backfilling the trenches with soil.

So, a septic tank made from plastic barrels is an inexpensive and practical solution for a bathhouse, construction shed or cottage. This installation cleans wastewater and does not require frequent pumping.

Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels for a country house

One of the simplest treatment facilities that you can build with your own hands is a septic tank made from (plastic) barrels. This type of septic tank is affordable.

Plastic barrels: building a budget septic tank

In country living conditions, installing an autonomous sewer system is as urgent a need as providing a home with clean drinking water from a well or borehole.

One of the most important components for local sewerage is storage tank or a septic tank designed to collect human waste and sewage. There are several types of septic tanks. This could be a well made of concrete rings with additional sealing, old barrels dug into the ground, or modern system biological treatment. Each owner selects the type of septic tank that suits his needs.

An important factor is the cost of such a structure and the entire sewer system as a whole.

Description and principle of operation

Unfortunately, not everyone can afford to purchase an expensive treatment facility. And in In some cases there is no need for it at all. For example, if you plan to seasonally collect wastewater at your dacha, entering the sewer system from a bathhouse or any temporary building. The owners quite reasonably believe that in the above cases there is no point in spending a lot of money on construction works or purchasing a biological treatment station. You can get by with an old container - a tank or a barrel.

With the spread and growing popularity of plastic products, the choice has become much easier.

On the farm or, as a last resort, on the market there is always a suitable plastic barrel that can be used as country septic tank. You can dig either one barrel or several into the ground, connecting them to each other according to the principle of communicating vessels. In a design of several barrels, sewage water will be purified more efficiently. And the capacity of the septic tank will increase significantly.

From the three-chamber structure, filtered and settled water can be discharged through drains onto the lawn or garden, thereby moistening the soil near the root system of plants. Of course, the water in such septic tanks will not be completely purified. Therefore, three-chamber structures are used only when working with relatively clean sewage water draining by gravity from bathhouses, showers and temporary buildings.

If fecal matter, water from kitchen sinks or dishwashers and washing machines are discharged into the sewer system, it will not be possible to purify the water in a filtering septic tank from several barrels. In these cases, it is advisable to use a large-volume sealed container.

The operating principle of a septic tank made from barrels is quite simple. The containers are dug into the ground below the level of the sewer pipes. Waste enters the septic tank by gravity. Depending on the degree of contamination of wastewater, a sealed barrel or a system of barrels is used, followed by filtration of purified water into the ground.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any engineering structure, a septic tank made of plastic barrels has its pros and cons.

The advantages include:

• relative low cost of construction;
• ease of installation and operation;
• resistance to aggressive environments and low temperatures.

• the relatively small capacity of the septic tank (especially if the first old small container that comes to hand is used);
• the likelihood of the container being squeezed out when the ground freezes.

Design Features

The selected barrel or several containers are buried in the ground below the level of the sewer pipes. This is done to ensure gravity flow. The pipes are laid with a slight slope towards the storage or filter tank.

To serve the family from three people in the summer, you will need a container with a capacity of not less than 200-250 liters. If several barrels are used, they are installed in one line and connected in series to each other via overflow pipes. Moreover, each of the containers is buried 15-20 centimeters below the previous one (the so-called stepped arrangement), which ensures a slope between the incoming and outgoing pipes.

Typically, the first two containers are used for settling, and the third is used to filter clarified water into the soil. Accordingly, the first containers are always sealed, and the last one has a perforated bottom and is filled halfway broken brick or other filter material. A special cushion of crushed stone and sand is installed under the filter tank. 50 cm of sand and 30 cm of crushed stone are poured into the pit.

This bottom filling provides additional filtration of sewage water. And in areas with high level For groundwater, it is recommended to build a drainage field instead of a filter well, to which water is discharged using a drain system.

If the sewage system is not actively used, as mentioned above, it is enough to install one sealed barrel, from which the water will be regularly pumped out by a drainage or fecal pump.

DIY installation

This is done in case of depressurization of the sewer drain. Spilled dirty water poses a risk to human health and can pollute the environment.

A distance of 50 meters should separate the septic tank from any source of drinking water. From rivers and streams - 10, and from public reservoirs 30 meters. There are also requirements for placement regarding roads and even fruit trees. The septic tank is installed 5 meters from the road and buildings, and 3 meters from garden plants.

• digging a pit and trenches for pipes;
• backfilling the sand cushion and sloping the trenches;
• pouring a concrete base in the pit;
• installation of barrels;
• connecting pipes (sewer products with a diameter of 10-11 cm are used, which are connected by pipes using sealant);
• backfill (a sand-cement mixture is used for the pit around the barrel).

Important points and mistakes

Common installation mistakes include:

• Failure to comply with the slope of the pipes. As a result, sewage water cannot move by gravity.
• There are several sharp turns. The more bends in the pipeline, the higher the likelihood of sewer clogging.
• Failure to comply with the stepwise burial of two- and three-chamber septic tanks. This engineering error leads to poor drainage of water between the chambers of the structure.

We use a 250-liter barrel as a septic tank to collect water from a bathhouse in the country. We bought a new one because we didn’t have a plastic container that was the right size at home.

When connecting the barrels to each other, keep the slope! We made a mistake at first, and the water in the first barrel began to stagnate. An unpleasant odor appeared. It is necessary that the inlet for connection be made 20 centimeters from the edge of the barrel, and the outlet at thirty centimeters - 10 centimeters lower.

Very convenient and cheap septic tank. I used several old barrels. In the latter I installed a filter. There are no problems with operation - the liquid goes into the soil itself.

Selection and installation diagram

• Barrels can be of any size. However, when choosing, it is important to consider the number of family members.
• A 250 liter capacity is enough for a family of two or three people.
• The product should not have too thin walls.
• Installation is carried out in compliance with all sanitary standards (the distance to residential buildings, sources of drinking water, roads is maintained).
• It is not advisable to use containers with a capacity of less than 200 liters.

Installation work includes:

1. Preliminary preparation of barrels - sawing holes for pipes. A hole is cut into the lid of the first container ventilation window for the riser through which air will flow.
2. Preparation of the pit - backfilling with a sand cushion, pouring a concrete base with metal brackets for fastening containers.
3. Installation of barrels and connection of pipes. Silicone cannot be used as a sealant!
4. Backfilling of the pit and compaction of the cement-sand mixture.

Exploitation

To provide uninterrupted operation sewer needs:

• avoid clogging of pipes;
• regularly clean the first chamber (tank) of the septic tank from accumulated solid waste;
• carefully insulate the cover of the first chamber, equipped with a ventilation hole.

Subject to these simple rules The septic tank will serve its owners for several decades, because plastic barrels have increased strength and reliability in operation.

Septic tank made of plastic barrels - an economical solution

Septic tank technical specification for plastic barrels: its operating principle, what are the advantages of designs made from plastic barrels. How to choose a barrel, typical installation mistakes

DIY septic tank from barrels

DIY septic tank from barrels

A country house, a small bathhouse, a summer camp site or temporary living quarters being built during the construction of a permanent structure will not be comfortable enough for living without a sewerage system. But purchasing an expensive local treatment plant is not always advisable.

Plastic barrels for the construction of a septic tank

As alternative solution You can consider a simple septic tank made of lightweight polymer barrels, which are very easy to bring to the site and install with your own hands in a short time. There are also metal barrels, but due to exposure of this material corrosion, their use is not recommended. Wooden containers are even less durable. Their service life is no more than two seasons.

Principle of operation

Since a septic tank is a system in which household wastewater and waste not only accumulate, but are treated. For construction, you will need two or three barrels, which will become loading and secondary cleaning chambers. To make the system as efficient as possible, you should think about installing a drainage or storage well, into which purified water from the septic tank will flow.

Approximate diagram of a septic tank made of barrels

Let's consider the principle of operation of a two-chamber septic tank made of barrels, equipped with a storage well.

1. Used water (from the shower, toilet, etc.) enters the plumbing drain hole, from where it flows by gravity through the internal and external sewerage pipes into the first loading barrel-chamber.
2. The first chamber is called a “settlement tank”, since here, with the participation of constantly acting gravitational forces, wastewater settles. Light fractions and fats float to the top, heavy particles precipitate. In the center of the container, a layer of primary purified technical liquid is formed, which is transported through the overflow pipe into the second chamber-barrel.
3. The second post-treatment chamber is designed for better treatment of wastewater. Here, in an airless environment, colonies of microorganisms “work” (they are formed 2-5 weeks after the system is put into operation). For greater efficiency, bioseptic preparations can be loaded into the post-treatment chamber, allowing you to quickly decompose all sewage into water, sediment that falls to the bottom, as well as gases escaping through the ventilation pipe.
4. The degree of purification in the first two chambers can reach 80-90%. To increase the quality of cleaning, you can install another septic tank chamber, which will work on the principle of a post-treatment chamber. If the result suits you, then this measure is not relevant, and technically purified water will be transferred to a storage well.
5. The storage well has a sealed bottom, preventing water from penetrating into the ground. Disposal of liquid from the well is carried out using a sewer truck or drain pump subject to installation of filters.

Instead of a storage well, you can install a filter (drainage) well. In this case, all the liquid enters the well container, where, passing through a crushed stone filter, it is absorbed into the soil. The method is not applicable at high groundwater levels and clay soil types with low filtration capacity.

Where to begin?

Any sewerage construction requires a minimum design. As prescribed by the standards, cleaning chambers must not only be located at a distance from green spaces (at least 3 meters), the foundation of the house (5-10 m), reservoirs and wells (30-50 m), but also at the same time be located within the reach of a sewer truck. place. Of course, if you plan to carry out preventive cleaning of the septic tank with a drainage pump or bucket, the last rule loses its relevance.

Note! The septic tank should not be too far from the building to avoid the need to lay an excessively long pipeline. It is also not recommended to plan the laying of pipes with turns, as this may cause clogging of the pipe and an additional need for installing a rotary (inspection) well. The best option– a septic tank located 7-10 meters from the house and connected to the internal sewerage system by a direct pipeline Ø110 mm. For a pipe section of 10 meters slope (the difference between the opposite ends of the pipe) will be 20 cm.

It is important to have information about soil type and groundwater levels. The nuances of installation and the method of disposal of the purified liquid will depend on this.

Septic tanks differ from conventional sewage systems in the volume of wastewater processed. If when connecting to central system the volume of water consumption does not matter, then small installation from barrels implies economical use of water (maximum washbasin, shower and toilet). At the same time, there is no question of connecting a washing machine. A three-chamber septic tank with a volume of about 250 liters is quite suitable for temporary living arrangements for 2-3 people. For more Users are advised to select larger capacity barrels.

It is also theoretically necessary to register the fact of installing a septic tank in the SES, but this design from casks is unlikely to be approved, so obtaining official approval is left to the discretion of the owners.

Preparation of materials and tools

After creating a project for a future mini-sewage system and the associated calculations (distance from the house, length of pipes, dimensions of the pit for barrels, slope), you should start purchasing all the necessary elements of the septic tank, Supplies and tools.

1. Polymer barrels (2 or 3), plus a plastic corrugated pipe or an additional barrel for the well.
2. Sewer covers for septic tanks.

Sewer covers for septic tanks

Sewer pipes 110 mm

For installation you will also need: sand, fine crushed stone (no more than 4 cm), glue for assembling PVC structures, sealant (epoxy base), rubber seals for connecting pipes with septic tank containers, pegs and cord, building level and a tape measure, a shovel, a turbine (grinder).

If the groundwater level is high, you will need to pour a concrete base, for which you need to prepare: cement, a mixing container, an electric mixer, fittings (loop-shaped fastenings), cables for attaching barrels.

Container for mixing cement mortar

If the soil is very crumbling, formwork will be needed; it is organized from unnecessary boards or metal mesh with a fine mesh.

Additional thermal insulation materials: insulation for sewer pipe, foam plastic or penoplex for a septic tank.

How to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands?

Find out how easy it is to arrange life in your dacha and save money on it. Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels: step-by-step instructions, selection of materials, installation tips.

An example of a homemade septic tank made from plastic barrels

Purchase an expensive factory-made septic tank for installing an autonomous sewer system on a summer cottage, used only in summer time, inappropriate. There is a simple way to solve this problem that does not require large financial costs. You can build a septic tank with your own hands from barrels by combining several plastic containers of various sizes into one system. Previously, such structures were made from metal barrels. However, with the advent of lightweight plastic products on the market, metal structures are used less and less. The operation of such a sewerage facility is possible only with a small amount of liquid waste. In practice, a homemade septic tank made from barrels is installed to collect wastewater from bathhouses and temporary buildings.

Requirements for the installation site of the septic tank

When choosing a location for installing plastic containers for collecting sewage waste, they are guided by the sanitary standards and rules in force in Russia. It is necessary to maintain the required distances from the septic tank to the wells and wells used to collect drinking water, as well as to the foundations of nearby buildings. It is recommended to retreat at least 5 meters from the house, and you can retreat at least one meter from the garage and bathhouse.

Requirements for choosing the location of a homemade septic tank in relation to other life support facilities for people living or vacationing outside the city

Approximate installation diagram for plastic containers

If no more than three people live in a country house in the summer, then two or three plastic barrels will be needed to build a septic tank. The volume of these containers must be at least 250 liters. Barrels connected in series to each other using overflow pipes are installed in one line. Holes are cut in the plastic walls of the containers for installing overflow pipes. At the same time, it is taken into account that the pipe leaving the chamber should be located 10 centimeters lower than the incoming one. The depth of placement of each subsequent container should be 10-15 cm greater than the previous chamber (stepped arrangement).

Two sealed barrels are designed to settle wastewater, and the third with a cut out bottom is adapted for a drainage well for natural filtration of clarified water. The first two chambers are installed on 10-centimeter sand pads, well compacted and level. The third chamber (drainage well) is placed on a layer of crushed stone, 30 cm thick, which is poured onto a 50 cm layer of sand. This sand and gravel filter allows for the additional purification of wastewater that goes into the ground. In areas with high groundwater levels, filtration fields are installed instead of a drainage well.

The simplest diagram of a homemade septic tank, which can be built from plastic barrels, concrete rings, galvanized containers, etc.

List of required materials for installation

If a septic tank is being built from plastic barrels with an aeration field, then the following will be required: Construction Materials and equipment:

• fine-grained crushed stone (fraction size 1.8-3.5 cm);
• geotextile fabric;
• a pair of plastic barrels with a volume of 250 l;
• orange sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
• tees and angles for connecting pipes at different angles;
• perforated pipes intended for drainage;
• couplings, flanges;
• glue for PVC pipes;
• two-component epoxy sealant;
• Plumbing tape.

The tools you will need are a level, a shovel, a rake, and a jigsaw. In addition to the listed devices and manual labor tools, wooden pegs are also useful when marking the area for a septic tank and filtration field.

Features of installation work

First, using a jigsaw, holes are cut in the barrels for installing overflow pipes and a ventilation riser. The hole intended for connecting the incoming pipe into the chamber is made at a distance of 20 cm from the top edge of the container. The outlet hole is made on the opposite side of the chamber 10 cm lower than the inlet hole, that is, at a distance of 30 cm from the top edge of the barrel.

Installing the overflow pipe into the hole cut in the first plastic settling barrel and filling the gap with two-part epoxy sealant

The ventilation riser for removing gases is installed only in the first settling barrel. It is also advisable to provide this chamber with a removable lid, which allows periodic cleaning of the bottom from settled solid particles. In the second settling barrel, two holes are made at the bottom, located at an angle of 45 degrees relative to each other, to connect drainage pipes laid along the filtration field.

Important! Gaps in the holes formed due to loose contact between the pipes and the walls of the barrel are filled with two-component epoxy sealant.

Stage #1 - calculation of dimensions and construction of the pit

When calculating the dimensions of the pit, it is assumed that there should be a gap of 25 cm around the entire perimeter between the barrels and its walls. This gap will subsequently be filled with a dry sand-cement mixture, which will serve to protect the walls of the septic tank from damage during seasonal soil movement.

If you have the funds, the bottom under the settling chambers can be filled with concrete mortar, providing the “cushion” with embedded metal parts with loops that will serve to secure plastic containers. Such fastening will not allow the barrels to “float” through the veins, and thereby disrupt the established autonomous sewage system.

The stepped bottom of the pit must be leveled and covered with a layer of compacted sand, the thickness of which must be at least 10 cm

Stage #2 - installation of plastic containers

Barrels are placed on the prepared bottom of the pit and secured with straps to metal loops embedded in concrete. All pipes are connected and gaps in the holes are sealed. Fill the remaining space between the walls of the pit and the containers with a mixture of cement and sand, not forgetting to compact them layer by layer. As the pit is filled with backfill, water is poured into the containers to prevent deformation of the walls of the barrels under the pressure of the sand-cement mixture.

Preparing the hole in the second settling barrel to connect the overflow pipe. In this version, the flange is connected not from the side, but from the top

Stage #3 - setting up a filtration field

In the immediate vicinity of the septic tank, a trench 60-70 cm deep is dug, the dimensions of which should allow the placement of two perforated pipes. The bottom and walls of the trench are lined with geotextile fabric with a reserve that is necessary to cover pipes covered with crushed stone on top.

A 30-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile and leveled bulk material and compact

Drainage pipes are laid with perforations in the walls, which are connected to the second settling barrel. Then another 10 cm of crushed stone is poured on top of the pipes, leveled and the backfill is covered with geotextile fabric so that the edges overlap each other by 15-20 cm. Next, all that remains is to fill the filtration field with soil and decorate this place with lawn grass.

As you can see, any summer resident can make a septic tank from barrels. Just remember that this structure is designed for the collection and disposal of small amounts of liquid household waste.

Homemade septic tank from plastic barrels: do it yourself

Selecting plastic containers for making a homemade septic tank: video. Diagram of a simple septic tank made from plastic barrels for a summer house or bathhouse.

Making a septic tank with your own hands from barrels is one of the simplest and cheapest ways to ensure wastewater treatment. Its production does not require much time, and the materials are available. At the same time, a treatment plant of this type is quite effective and gives high quality removing impurities.

In septic tanks of this type wastewater are cleaned mainly by mechanical methods:

• Partial clarification during the deposition of the largest particles of impurities occurs mainly in the first of three series-connected containers.
• Smaller inclusions settle in the second tank, into which water flows from the top of the first barrel.
• The “native” bottom of the third barrel is usually removed, and when installing a septic tank, the lower part is backfilled with sand, gravel or expanded clay. This material acts as a filter.

Passing through the ground achieves optimal results, but this method is not suitable for areas with groundwater located close to the surface. To ensure sanitary safety in such cases, drainage of treated wastewater through filtration fields is organized. Such structures are perforated pipes insulated with geotextile, which come out of the third barrel at an angle of 45° to each other and are located in trenches parallel to the surface.

The use of septic tanks from barrels

It is advisable to build a septic tank at the dacha with your own hands from barrels in the following cases:

• as a temporary structure during the construction phase of a house before the sewer system is installed,
• with a minimum amount of waste, typical for periodic visits suburban area without permanent residence.

Such requirements are due to the small volume of tanks. The capacity of large barrels is usually 250 liters Therefore, the volume of a septic tank from three tanks will be 750 liters. At the same time, according to the terms of sanitary standards, the septic tank must accommodate three daily “portions”.

It is advisable to build a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands as a separate treatment plant, For example, for shower or bath.

The advantages of such designs are:

• low cost (used containers are often used),
• simplicity of design and installation,
• less excavation work due to the small volume of tanks.

Pros and cons of the materials used

Do-it-yourself sewerage in a dacha can be made from a barrel using plastic or metal containers. Usually the most affordable option is used, however, if a choice is possible, the pros and cons of each option should be taken into account before making a decision.

Advantages:

• light weight, ease of transportation and installation,
• ease of making holes for pipes,
• absolute waterproofness, eliminating the possibility of soil contamination,
• resistance to corrosion from water or aggressive substances that may be contained in detergents.

Flaws:

• due to their small weight, plastic barrels require reliable fastening to the foundation in order to prevent them from floating during a flood, which can lead to destruction of the sewer system,
• Due to the plasticity of the material, there is a danger of squeezing soil reservoirs during the cold season.

Iron barrels

Advantages of a septic tank made of metal barrels:

• high strength,
• structural rigidity,
• waterproof provided the walls and bottom are intact.

Flaws:

• instability to corrosion, requiring waterproofing coating and periodically checking its condition,
• a slightly more complex process of making holes that requires the use of power tools.

It should be noted that more often a homemade septic tank from barrels is made using plastic containers.

Materials and tools

Before making a septic tank from a barrel, in order to avoid unplanned interruptions during the work process, it is better to prepare everything you need in advance.

Main components:

• metal or plastic barrels,
• sewer pipes (most often used with a diameter of 110 mm), the total length of which is 1-2 meters greater than the length of the main line,
• tees corresponding to the diameter of the pipes,
• sewer covers for barrels,
• pipes for ventilation (in some cases sewer pipes can be used),
• covers for ventilation (purchased or home-made protective canopies),
• corner fittings,
• flanges, couplings.

Installation materials:

• PVC glue (if plastic containers are used),
• sealant,
• cement,
• sand,
• crushed stone,
• fastening cables or clamps.

Tools:

• Bulgarian,
• shovel,
• electric mixer

Septic tank installation

Sewerage from barrels with your own hands requires certain steps preparatory work before starting installation. We will consider the option of making a septic tank from three barrels, but the same remains for a septic tank from two tanks.

Technological holes are made in each barrel.

In each of their barrels, in addition, holes are made at the upper end (or lids, which are often provided with tanks for ease of cleaning) for ventilation pipes.

In each tank, the inlet is located 10 cm above the outlet.

Important: When making a septic tank from iron barrels with your own hands, metal barrels for sewerage, the inside and outside are coated with an anti-corrosion compound.

The pit for the septic tank is dug out of the barrels in such a way that when installed, there is a gap of 25 cm on each side of any tank. The bottom of the pit is covered with crushed stone or a sand cushion is arranged.

• To fill the foundation, step formwork is installed. When placing barrels with a sequential decrease in level (each is 10 cm lower than the previous one), the volume of the tanks will be fully used, which is very important with the small capacity of septic tanks of this type. If the removal of purified liquid is provided through the bottom filter of the third barrel, the last tank is installed directly on crushed stone, without a foundation.
• After pouring the foundation at the stage of hardening of the solution, rings or hooks are installed in it, to which clamps will cling to fix the containers. Just in case, it is better to “anchor” not only plastic, but also iron tanks.

If wastewater removal will be carried out through a filtration field, then trenches for laying corrugated pipes can be dug at this stage.

Once the foundation has gained strength, you can begin installing and securing tanks, installing pipes and sealing joints at their entry points. Experts recommend not using silicone for these purposes, preferring other types of sealants, for example, epoxy.

The trenches of the filtration field are covered with geotextile, and after laying the perforated pipes, the material is wrapped with the edges overlapping each other.

A fully assembled septic tank made from barrels is filled with soil. It is better to fill plastic containers with water at this time to avoid deformation. During the backfilling process, the soil is periodically carefully compacted.

In a separate article on the site, it will be easier to create a treatment facility with it, but it will still not be possible to completely do without loading equipment.

Installation of a sewer system for a private house. Selecting a location, conducting internal and external communications.

Types of plastic drainage wells are presented. Scope of application and installation.

Nuances of construction

When installing septic tanks from barrels in the country with your own hands, you should take into account some nuances and rules:

Rules for choosing the volume and location of septic tanks

The daily water consumption rate is 200 liters per person, and the septic tank must be able to accommodate wastewater. Collected within 72 hours or 3 days. Thus, subject to permanent residence, a three-chamber septic tank made of 250-liter barrels is suitable only for one person. Therefore, septic tanks of this type are used only for temporary residence or for treating wastewater from one point (for example, from a bathhouse). In most cases, they try to somehow increase the capacity of septic tanks, which is why among treatment facilities made from barrels there are practically no two-chamber options (they have too small a volume).

It is important to comply with sanitary requirements regarding permissible distances from the septic tank to certain objects. For example, the distance from the source of drinking water should be at least 50 meters. Garden plants and fruit trees must be located at least 3 meters from the treatment plant. The distance to the road is at least 5 meters.

In a city apartment, sewerage and running water are the norm. Concerning summer cottage, then there are no such conditions there, but a person still wants comfort. Outside the city, it is not always possible to use centralized treatment systems, which is why many property owners outside the city install a septic tank on their own.

The solution of the problem

To do this, you can use one of many technologies, but most often the sewer system is installed using barrels, which are convenient to install and easy to get. It is better to purchase a septic tank for a private home pre-assembled. But if we are talking about a dacha, then barrel sewage will be sufficient, which involves soil or mechanical purification.

Choosing a location for a septic tank

If you decide to install a septic tank from a barrel with your own hands, then it is important to choose the right place. The system should be removed from wells, drinking wells and reservoirs at least 30 m. The distance from the beds should be 10 m, from underground pipelines - 5 m. Work on the arrangement of such a sewer system should begin at a distance of 5 m from the foundation.

As for green spaces such as trees and shrubs, the distance to them should be 3 m. It is important to maintain a minimum step to sources of drinking water, this will prevent their contamination and reduce the likelihood of the spread of infection.

Before starting work, it is important to remember that wastewater will enter the system in a small volume, because usually the owners of suburban real estate do not live in such houses permanently, they may visit the site on weekends or be present during visits. However, it is important to comply with construction and sanitary standards.

When building a septic tank from a barrel with your own hands, you should not place it close to the foundation, because in this case the water will begin to destroy the foundation. Sanitary standards are prescribed for a reason; if they are neglected, this can lead to health problems and liability under the law. When choosing a location for a septic tank, you should consider:

• soil composition and properties;
• relief of the site;
• climatic conditions;
• the need to arrange an access road for a sewer truck.

What is important to consider?

Before starting work, it is important to study the composition of the soil. As for sand, it allows moisture to pass through quite easily, whereas clay soil should be supplemented with a sand cushion. It is important to pay attention to the terrain features of the site. The pipe must be laid at a certain slope from the house to the receiving barrels, then the wastewater will move by gravity.

If you are building a septic tank from a barrel with your own hands, then it is also important to take into account the climatic conditions. Experts recommend studying how much the air temperature drops in winter, because this allows you to find out what the level of soil freezing is. If the septic tank is planned to be pumpable, then it is important to ensure that there are access paths for the sewer truck.

The most simple system for a summer cottage consists of two iron barrels and an external pipeline. Pipes can be made of plastic, and their diameter can be 110 mm. If the diameter is smaller, the system will not be able to cope with the peak volume of sewage. A septic tank made from barrels can only be installed if the groundwater level is at a level of 4 m.

The slope of the sewer pipeline should be 0.03, this will ensure gravity flow. The vertical value should be 3 cm per linear meter. If pipes are supposed to be laid above the soil freezing level, then they should be insulated using moisture-resistant thermal insulation.

Sewage device

Quite often lately, consumers have been building a septic tank from barrels with their own hands. You too can follow their experience. At the first stage, it is important to choose the material of the containers; it can be plastic or iron. The first option will be easier to install; in addition, it is resistant to corrosion, but swelling of the soil can lead to deformation of the structure.

Among Russian summer residents, iron barrels with a capacity of 200 liters are more common. After firing, this container becomes ideal for a sewer sump. The container is inexpensive and durable, and is also lightweight, which allows you to carry out the work yourself. One of the main disadvantages of iron is its susceptibility to corrosion. But the walls of the product can always be treated with an anti-corrosion compound similar to bitumen mastic.

How to avoid mistakes?

In order for the container to last longer, it should be covered with bitumen and paint and varnish material. If you decide to install a septic tank with your own hands from a barrel for country toilet, then it is important to consider the choice of material from the point of view of the need to fill the foundation. The plastic is quite light, so it must be fixed on a concrete pad, otherwise the product may float during floods.

With iron such problems will not arise. By sanitary standards and according to the rules, the volume of the septic tank must accommodate wastewater in the amount of 3 daily norms. This is true for water consumption in the amount of 5 m 3 per day, which is relevant for country sewerage. However, it is important to remember that these data are for cleanable sumps.

Arrangement technology

If you are thinking about the question of how to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands, then at the first stage you need to carry out excavation. They involve preparing a trench for laying pipes that will run from the house. For reinforced concrete barrels it is also necessary to dig a pit. The top of the container is sprinkled with soil. The pit should be deep enough; a gap should be left on the sides, the width of which is 0.25 m.

When setting up a septic tank from barrels in your country house with your own hands, you must decide whether you will use the system in the winter. If this is the case, then thermal insulation work should be carried out. In this case, the containers must be located below the soil freezing line, otherwise the water will freeze. This approach requires additional deepening of the pit; an excavator may be needed.

Work methodology

At the next stage, holes should be made in the barrels. In the first container, one of them should be located on top; it is intended for the pipe coming from the house. The second hole should be on the side; it is the outlet and is used to overflow into the next tank.

In the second container, a hole is made on the side, and the second - from the bottom. To be precise, the second barrel must be deprived of the bottom to allow drainage into the ground. This will allow you to make a septic tank from a barrel with your own hands without pumping. The inlet hole should be located 20 cm higher than the outlet hole, otherwise the water may flow back. In order to eliminate welding work, it is necessary to cut a hole and install rubber seals, plastic pipes are inserted into them, and the connections are treated with sealant.

A cushion of sand and gravel must be poured onto the bottom of the prepared pit; its thickness can vary from 10 to 30 cm. The preparation is well compacted, barrels are placed on it and connected by a jumper. They can be lined with insulation, which is sometimes expanded clay or polystyrene foam.

Before connecting the barrels, fill the sides with soil. The soil is poured in layers of 20 cm and compacted. At the next stage, the pipe that comes from the country house is connected. It is inserted into the first container using a tee; its free end will be used for ventilation. At the final stage, everything should be covered with soil.

Features of a septic tank made from metal barrels

If you are constructing a septic tank from iron barrels with your own hands, then it is important to concrete the bottom. The second container should be located slightly lower than the first. For work, it is better to use barrels of 200 liters or more. It is recommended to insulate the septic tank on all sides; this process should not be neglected, laying the material only at the bottom of the pit. After backfilling is completed, the system should be covered with roofing felt, iron or wood covers, the latter of which are needed to provide access to the containers if it is necessary to pump out wastewater.

Volume increase

If you want to increase the volume of the structure, you can stack several barrels on top of each other and weld them together. Additional iron jumpers can be mounted to securely fasten the products to each other. The formed joints must be well waterproofed; hot bitumen is usually used for this. No matter how well a septic tank is built with your own hands from a barrel of fuel and lubricants, after 4 years the tanks will have to be replaced, because they will begin to rust and rot under the influence of aggressive wastewater.

Features of preparing a pit for installing plastic barrels

Quite often, country property owners build a septic tank from plastic barrels with their own hands. You can see photos of such systems in the article. When preparing a pit for installing containers, you should be guided by parameters that will be larger than the geometric dimensions of the compartments used. Along the perimeter of the pit, the step between the sides and the barrels should be 0.25 m. The bottom must be well compacted, covered with sand and filled with concrete solution; if necessary, formwork should be used.

You can install embedded metal elements into the resulting base, which will help secure the barrels. They must be made with loops. When making a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands, you must additionally secure the tanks to the base using special belts, which are also called bandage belts. They allow you to achieve a 100% guarantee that the barrels will not float during a flood.

When making holes in plastic containers, you should step back 0.2 m from the lid of the first tank. The pipe from the residential building will be installed here. On the opposite side of the chamber, another hole should be made, which is shifted downward by 0.1 m. In the first container, you will need another hole for the ventilation riser.

If you decide to make a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands, then it is recommended to add a removable lid to the first compartment, because a huge amount of solid waste will accumulate in it, which will have to be cleaned out from time to time. If you do not plan to construct it, then holes are made in the second barrel, which are located at an angle of 45 ° relative to each other. These holes will be needed for drainage pipes.

Conclusion

A septic tank made with your own hands from plastic barrels (200 liters) may require the presence of filtration fields instead of a filtration well. For pipes, it is necessary to prepare trenches that have a slope of 2 cm per meter. Geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the trench, and its sections are thrown over the sides of the ditch. Next, it is backfilled with crushed stone, on the layer of which drainage pipes are placed. The trench is filled with crushed stone, and geotextiles are laid on top again. At the final stage, the ditch is covered with earth, at which point we can assume that the filtration fields are ready.

During operation, the first compartment will be filled with sludge and solid waste. For cleaning, you should use the services of a vacuum cleaner. The volume of sludge will increase by 80 liters over the summer, however, with constant visits to the dacha, the system may overflow long before the end of the season. These operating features, of course, must be taken into account before the system is designed.