The construction of an apartment building of a block or brick type provides for a tiled floor. Unfortunately, the end result is often overshadowed by the discrepancy in the ceiling deflection.
Ceiling alignment is a very hot topic. We will try to reveal some important points of this process.
Dry mixes and solutions
Often, it is for financial reasons that the material is chosen with the help of which the alignment of walls and ceilings will be performed.
Plaster, putty - capricious compositions, applied in the form of a wet mixture. The work is carried out in a limited temperature regime. To achieve a high-quality result, the entire technological process must be carried out with insignificant temperature differences.
Leveling the ceiling with putty, plaster is an inexpensive method, but if you compare it in complexity, then physical effort goes much more than money.
The mixture for leveling the ceiling includes the following main components: chalk, gypsum, glue. Depending on the manufacturer, the putty contains different fillers.
Any work with dry mixes requires certain skills in contacting this material. In addition to labor costs for the surface to be treated, preliminary cleaning must be taken into account.
The putty is a powdery mixture. In hardware stores, it can be sold in a paste-like form. The composition is latex, adhesive, acrylic, oil. Distinctive characteristics dictate the application - for indoor and outdoor use. Nowadays, we are more accustomed to hearing and talking about putty as a material used to level the ceiling. In a colloquial way, people changed the name a little, but this did not change the essence of the application of the dry mix.
The size of the filler is the main difference between plaster and putty. To eliminate small defects, a fine filler of the putty (1000 microns) is more suitable.
Cooking the ceiling
Leveling the ceiling with putty or other bulk material is not limited to the purchase of one product. Before starting work, you need to purchase a metal spatula with a rubberized handle. It is best to prepare several different sized instruments.
In order not to prepare the solution by hand, take care of a mechanical or electrical stirrer. It is better to mix the solution in a container of 10-15 liters. High sides protect the room from splashes. It is more convenient to collect the solution on a spatula in a container with straight walls.
The concrete ceiling is cleaned of dirt and other deposits. Do not ignore stains like mold or mildew. All dubious stains must be treated with a disinfectant solution that removes unwanted "tenants". The most proven option is a solution of copper sulfate. This tool can be applied in several layers, after drying each of them.
Few people know, but processing with an open fire also perfectly disinfects. The concrete floor will perfectly withstand the onslaught of temperature, but mold does not. We use a blowtorch, a welding machine or any other similar device.
Sandblasting the surface will save the day. The roughened surface created will provide good grip. To achieve the same goal, some resort to mechanical notching, cutting the ceiling surface. But this is the case with a concrete ceiling.
But the processed surface made of wood, steel or metal is covered with a mesh with cells of 10 × 10. Joints and seams are also subject to mesh fastening.
Ceiling alignment is carried out on beacons. With the help of a paint cord, the zero mark is set on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room. The lowest point on the ceiling is revealed. Such a place is fixed by the first beacon. Plaster moldings - beacons are applied over the entire surface. For the convenience of work, beacons are placed every thirty centimeters.
Working solution. We apply correctly
Leveling the ceiling with plaster is the most common option if the level of the drop on the plane approaches 3-5 cm, since the plaster lies on any surface - metal, wood, beam, concrete.
In the process of the main work, the plaster is applied in a layer, the thickness of which does not exceed 5 cm. This rule should be taken into account when installing beacons.
Depending on the task, the following solution is prepared - cement, gypsum or lime. The difference in working with the above formulations lies in the sequence of application of the layers.
It is recommended to apply each layer of gypsum no earlier than 20-25 minutes after the previous one, a coarser material - cement - is applied no earlier than after a couple of hours. You can determine the time of application of the lime layer by how the previous one turns white, but complete drying is not encouraged.
Keeping time for fixing the solution, leveling the primer layer, it is impossible to allow pits and cracks, as well as exceeding the level of beacons. After the last soil layer, the beacons are removed. The place where they were is masked with a solution.
Internal corners and joints of the ceiling with the wall are sealed with additional mortar using a trowel.
The putty can be divided into several portions, equal to the steps that will go to leveling the ceiling with your own hands.
Preparatory stage: when cleaning the concrete floor, irregularities are removed. All deviations above 2 mm are taken into account. You can use a hammer drill with a special attachment. The ceiling must be primed with a composition with special penetrating agents. In such work, a roller and a paint brush are used.
We consider the stages of this important process further.
Fine work
The finishing coat completes the leveling of the ceiling with a filler. After application to the surface, it is carefully leveled until smooth.
It is more expedient to perform leveling of ceilings with dry mixes, sold in economical packages, when the purchase of a large amount of material is not included in the financial plans with a small amount of work.
The rough alignment work has been completed, we are moving on to an equally important process. The main chord of the renovation will be the ceiling putty. This will hide insignificant differences.
The putty is applied in a thin layer to the cleaned surface. Irregularities are smoothed out with a sandpaper, a hinged float.
Where seam leveling of the ceiling is planned, a serpyanka (paint net) is attached. You can fix it with PVA glue. Having finished with the preparatory stage, we proceed to the preparation of the solution.
12 liters of water will require 30 kg of dry mix. With a construction mixer or a mixer mounted on a drill, a putty solution is prepared. When the consistency of thick sour cream is reached, the mixture can be considered ready for application.
Due to the rapid solidification of the solution, you need to work very quickly. A putty is applied to a wide spatula with a tool with a narrow blade. The mass is transferred to the ceiling. Try to firmly press the composition to the surface. The resulting streaks are eliminated with a trowel mesh. The dried ceiling is sanded.
After applying the putty, the surface is treated with a special primer, so a roller and a paint brush will not be superfluous in the general set.
The final stage of your creativity will be grinding. Those who have a special machine at home perform the alignment of the ceiling for painting with this device. For finishing by hand, construction sandpaper is suitable.
If there are remnants of old material (paint, plaster) on the ceiling, they must be removed. The surface is cleaned with a scraper or trowel.
Better leveling and painting of the ceiling are obtained using materials from one manufacturer.
Drywall saves you time
Aligning the ceiling with plasterboard is a faster and easier option. The fastening technology also impresses with its reliability. The process is not associated with dilution of solutions (except for masking the joints). Repair work is reduced in time.
The resulting inter-ceiling space will be useful to lay soundproofing material, communication networks.
Considering that installation work does not require special skills and unique tools, drywall is a favorite material for designers who use it to implement their bold solutions and projects. In addition, it is very easy to align the ceiling for painting with it.
Competent calculation of drywall sheets for the ceiling area will reduce the volume of construction waste.
Installation techniques
A good frame is always a good leveling of the ceiling. The most common methods of creating it are hard and free.
If each sheet is fastened to the base ceiling, wall profile, along the perimeter of the room, this method is considered to be rigid fixation. This option is great in places where the home ownership has shrunk and is not prone to deformation.
In new buildings and where the building is located on heaving soil that deforms the masonry, on the contrary, it is necessary to use free installation of gypsum plasterboards. The dynamic stress will decrease if there is no adhesion to the wall.
Beauty in simple solutions
If the do-it-yourself ceiling alignment is not associated with curly and multi-level structures, you can install the frame at a 2.5-centimeter height.
To avoid unnecessary costs and have information about the required amount of material, draw a drawing of your room. Aligning the ceiling with plasterboard, previously planned, becomes easier. Design figures can be moved, cut. You will see how the percentage of scraps is minimized by avoiding criss-cross connections.
The structure can be made of wood or metal. The number of profiles will depend on the method of installation work.
The standard dimensions of plasterboard sheets are as follows: width - 1200 mm, length - 2000 mm. With the longitudinal arrangement of the profile, the distance is maintained at least 600 mm. In this case, when fixing the sheets, the profile (timber) is located along the edges and in the center.
Calculating the future load, set the cross-section step. The frame must withstand during operation lighting devices (chandeliers), cornices, curtains, insulation.
For those who are working with gypsum material for the first time, it must be said that there is a special marking on the sheets. The manufacturer applies it during manufacture so that it is convenient to install.
Cool tip: when purchasing drywall, choose a moisture-resistant product. It is more practical in operation, it is not afraid of evaporation and high humidity in the room.
Correct markup
The markings determine the degree of evenness of the ceiling. If the surface is strictly horizontal, we can assume that the main condition for applying the correct markings is met. If horizontality is lame, you need to take measures to "tame" it.
We measure a few centimeters from the ceiling along the entire perimeter. All points are fixed. A line is launched along the markings. The ideal result will be the coincidence of its ends. An error in measurements is indicated by the divergence of the ends of the measuring beam.
A little trick will help you make the benchmarks. It is enough to cover simple threads with blue, wind them on a spool and pull them between opposite marks. Any cord stretched between the screws along the specified line can be a guideline for leveling work.
Additionally, lines are outlined on the surface of the ceiling. Plan the direction of the drywall sheets. Two reference lines extend from a right angle in opposite directions.
We can say with confidence that high-quality leveling and painting of the ceiling depend on the accuracy of the preparatory work.
About frame
Perforated plates are fixed to the base ceiling. Metal hangers have holes that can be used to easily adjust the desired height.
When the ceiling profile is screwed on, the excess section of the suspension must be bent and hidden in the structure.
The distance between the hangers should not exceed half a meter. They are fastened with dowels, screws of the same diameter. The dowels must have caps. This requirement is no coincidence - the cap will not allow the fasteners to fall deeper than the established position, and voids do not threaten the overlap.
At the final stage, before the end of all work, lay insulating material, wiring, communications.
The profiles are inserted under the hangers. The evenness of the frame is regulated by pulling the U-shaped suspension.
We fix drywall
The material is attached in one direction. At the same time, they try to install the screws closer to the back side of the profile. In this case, the screw does not bend inward and does not interfere with the joining of subsequent sheets.
Self-tapping screws are screwed onto plasterboard panels at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. In any case, you need to observe a right angle when entering drywall. The minimum deepening when passing into the flange of the profile is 10 mm.
If you try and drown the screw cap by 2-3 mm, the surface will be smoother and smoother. Putting up this place will not take long. Screws are screwed into all the crossbars, jumpers located horizontally and in the transverse mount. Don't forget about perimeter placement.
After completing the installation of drywall, putty the joints. To do this, glue the seams with a mounting serpentine. Good luck in the repair!
Some residents are trying to fix this malfunction on their own, but do not know exactly how to level the ceiling with their own hands. With an abundance of finishing materials, they are lost and often choose putty mixtures instead of plaster or drywall, believing that this will save them money.
But for the correct handling of irregularities, you need to know what alignment methods are and what they depend on. There are only two of them:
- Wet method - leveling with dry building mixtures diluted with ordinary water (plaster, putty).
- Dry method - leveling the entire ceiling area by installing plastic panels, chipboard, plywood or drywall.
The use of each option depends on the level of slab shear, on the presence (in old buildings) of pipes or beams under the ceiling and on your capabilities. For example, the choice to eliminate the drop of drywall involves sealing the entire ceiling, and this is an "expensive pleasure."
But unlike the "wet" method, overlapping with plasterboard:
- takes less time (4-5 hours instead of 4-5 days);
- allows you to do almost without dust and dirt, which occurs when working with bulk materials;
- hides irregularities of any type and size;
- allows you to install (hang, build in) lamps of different types;
- makes it possible to create multi-level, curved planes and niches (for example, for hidden lamps);
- allows you to install sound or thermal insulation.
Disadvantage of the method:
- a significant decrease in the height of the room (6 cm or more);
- the presence of an additional worker during the installation of the gypsum board due to the size and weight.
Dependence of the processing method on the shear level
- If the shift of the plates (maximum) is 2-3 cm or less, then it is very easy to process it with a putty mixture. To do this, it is advisable to use two types of mixtures - normal and finishing. With a drop of more than 2 cm, it is necessary to work with a reinforcing mesh.
- If the maximum shear level is more than 2-3 cm, but less than 5 cm, then it is necessary to carry out "wet work":
- apply plaster (0.5-1 cm less than the shear level) and wait for it to dry completely. If a thick layer (3 cm) is applied, then use a metal mesh or beacons;
- then 1-2 layers of putty are applied to prepare for painting.
- With a drop of 5 cm or more and if there are beams or pipes under the ceiling, it is technologically advantageous to cover the entire area with materials produced in the form of plates (gypsum board, plastic, etc.).
Ceiling markings
From the very beginning, the magnitude of the difference is measured with a laser water or home-made level, which is made of two transparent tubes (glass) connected by a hose 1.2-1.5 longer than the length of the wall. The tube is not completely filled with colored water (you can apply tea color) and is closed with fingers on both sides.
They use a homemade level as follows: one person aligns the mark of one end of the tube with the mark at the corner of the wall, the other, raising and lowering the other tube, marks the second point.
The easiest way to outline the line is with a paint cord. After determining the level of shear and drawing marks on the walls, a cord, painted with chalk or special paint, is stretched between the points of one wall. Pulling and releasing the cord, outline the lower line of the future level.
Depending on the amount of shift, one of the alignment methods described above is selected. Let's consider each of them separately.
"Wet" works
If it is intended to carry out work related to plastering or putty, then the surface is prepared in advance. This requires:
- remove outdated coating;
- prime the ceiling;
- install beacons (when working with plaster).
- Removing an obsolete layer involves removing (beating, prying or scraping) the putty, whitewash, plaster, chalk, etc. remaining on the ceiling. For this, a bushard or a spatula (hard) is used.
If you can't find these tools nearby, you can make them yourself. A hard spatula can be made from a regular one by cutting its blade to 3 cm in length. The metal part will lose flexibility and, accordingly, gain rigidity. The bouchard can be replaced with the iron part of any ax or used (for breaking off cement, plaster, etc.) a small hatchet.
- The primer is designed to provide subsequent layers (putty, paint, etc.) with reliable adhesion to the prepared surface. The choice of primer compound depends on the humidity in the room. In "wet" points (bathroom, toilet, kitchen) use a mass with waterproofing.
It is best to buy masses of deep penetration (look at the label, ask a seller or specialist). Different tools are used for priming:
- maklovitsa - used when working with uneven concrete floors;
- roller - intended for priming, painting of flat surfaces;
- malka - serves for rough processing of the ceiling (overlaying, tightening the mixture).
The following tools are used for applying, spreading and leveling materials on even surfaces and in corners, as well as for sanding in finishing:
- If you intend to apply a thick layer of plaster, then it is advisable to install beacons (profiles) or a metal mesh, and when working with putty, use serpyanka.
Serpyanka is fixed with glue. It is applied to the surface, a tape is applied and passed over it with a spatula or rag. The metal mesh is fixed with staples. In some cases, it can be secured with staples for a construction stapler.
Installation of beacons
When attaching beacons, you need to know the following rules:
- be sure to cover the entire ceiling with soil (a mixture of water and starting putty) and wait until it is completely dry (it will take 1-6 hours). It is not recommended to use ready-made solutions due to their high price;
- apply a line of the mixture and attach to it beacons of the appropriate size, which depends on the thickness of the plaster:
- during installation, the beacon bends, so for its installation you can take a long level or a flat rail and align it along it;
- to install the beacons at the same height, you can use a thread stretched under the outermost ones;
- the leveling of the plaster is performed with a special device - the rule. In this case, the distance between the beacons should be slightly less (by 10 cm) than the length of this instrument;
- after installation, you should wait at least 4 hours (preferably a day), to securely fix the beacons on a primed surface. During this time, you should inspect everything carefully and cover up the joints, revealed cracks or potholes.
This completes the preliminary surface treatment.
Advice: Do not hurry! Wait until one layer is completely dry and then apply the next.
Material consumption per 1 sq. / M differs from company to company. For example, when using the composition of the Knauf brand, 8.5 kg of the mixture will be consumed per 1 sq. / M. By multiplying this value by the ceiling area, you get the total weight of the composition required for your job.
It makes sense to use online calculators that will even calculate the number of bags, depending on the composition used.
According to the technology, two types of plaster should be applied: basic and finishing. But the use of some existing mixtures, for example the universal plaster "Rotband" from "Knauf", allows you to perform plastering quickly and without hindrance - it successfully replaces both compositions.
The application process is as follows:
- the first layer of plaster is applied to the previously fixed, on the ceiling, metal mesh or in the space between the beacons;
- after complete drying, a second layer is applied and so on, until you reach the level marked on the walls. Any layer should not be more than 1.5 cm;
- the last layer is straightened with the rule;
- then, after waiting for drying, a thin layer of putty or plaster is used to finish the entire ceiling (for painting).
For more adhesion, some craftsmen install pieces of mesh on each successive layer.
Advice: If the difference in the ceiling is more than 3 cm, then each applied layer is recommended to "comb" with a plaster comb, dry and prime, and then apply the next one.
The calculation of the material depends on the level of the drop. With irregularities up to 2 cm, you can adhere to the calculations used for flat surfaces, but increase the numbers by 1.5 times. Here are the final consumption figures for some of the compounds:
It is enough to multiply this data by the ceiling area to obtain the total weight of the mixture for processing the entire surface. On the pages of the world wide web there are online calculators that will calculate all the data depending on the composition used.
After the applied primer and glued serpyanka have completely dried, you can start applying the first (leveling) 1 cm layer of putty, using the starting composition for this purpose. The purpose and type of formulations can be found on the label or when purchasing in a store.
- The mass is diluted according to the instructions and brought to the consistency of sour cream with a drill with a nozzle;
- then apply it to the surface with a spatula, level it with a metal trowel and wait for the starting layer to dry completely.
If the room is ventilated and it is more than 15 degrees / C, then the finishing part of the finishing is done in 4-5 hours. To be sure, it is better to wait 24 hours. The finishing putty is applied in two passes. To do this, use an average spatula.
If the surface to be processed is large (20 sq. M or more), preference is given to a half-trowel, the use of which significantly increases the processing speed.
After applying the last layer (under suitable weather conditions), wait a day and begin sanding. Due to the dust generated during this operation, it is advisable to work with a respirator and construction goggles.
Leveling the surface with plasterboard
If it is supposed to close irregularities with plasterboard, then preliminary preparation is not needed. In this process, a kind of GKL panel is mounted, which eliminates and covers irregularities and large differences and allows you to hide beams or pipes passing under the ceiling.
The whole process can be broken down into 3 stages:
- Calculation and selection of material.
- Wall marking and installation of profiles.
- Fixing sheets.
Selection and calculation of elements
Usually, gypsum plasterboard is sold in sheets with dimensions of 1.2x2.5 m (area 3 m). For installation on the ceiling, gypsum plasterboard with a thickness of 1 cm is chosen.Gypsum plasterboard is of three types, of which the population uses two:
- gray or white - for cladding dry rooms;
- bluish or green (moisture resistant) - for "wet" spots.
The calculation of the material is carried out by calculating the private areas of the ceiling and plasterboard. Always take an extra sheet to reserve. This will help in case of accidental breakdown of the gypsum board.
S sheet = 3 sq / m.
S ceiling = 19 sq / m.
number of gypsum plasterboard = Sп / Sl = 19/3 = 6.3 +1 in stock = 7-8 sheets.
To calculate, draw a ceiling plan (to scale) and sketch it out. For clarity, we will present the installation options in a 19 sq / m room.
The calculation of the number of profiles (length 3 m) is carried out depending on the width of the apartment
- if it is equal to or less than 3 meters, then the installation and assembly of the steam generator is carried out in width. They are fixed every 25-50 cm. This is influenced by the load applied to the ceiling (for example, a heavy bronze chandelier).
Room length = 4.7 m;
Width = 2.7 m;
470 cm / 25 cm = about 19 pieces - under heavy load;
470 cm / 50 cm = about 10 pieces - minimum quantity;
to the received quantity it is necessary to add another 2-4 pieces to install the guides along the length of the room.
- if the width of the room space is more than 3 m, it is necessary to buy 1.5-2 times more profiles. In the middle of the ceiling, it is recommended to put support SGs (2 pieces).
Advice: Install thick-walled profiles at least 50 mm wide.
If the installation is carried out with a narrow steam generator, then it will not withstand the weight of the material and the entire structure will collapse.
Wall marking and installation of profiles
- Measuring the height of the room in the corners, we find the lowest of them and mark a point 50 mm below the ceiling level in this place. If it is supposed to insert lamps, then we make a mark at a distance of 80 mm.
- To mark the height in the remaining corners (starting from the marked point), we use a homemade or laser level.
- We connect the marks with a line around the perimeter, using a painting cord, as described above.
- We fix the guides to the walls (along the length of the room) as follows:
- set the profile with the lower edge on the line from the painting cord;
- with a thin drill we drill the SG and the wall in several places;
- remove the guide and drill the resulting holes to the caliber of the dowels;
- glue the tape (sealing) on the back of the profile and fix it with dowels or screws;
- we measure the distance remaining to the corner (if the length of the room is more than 3 m), cut the desired piece from another profile and repeat the drilling and fastening operation.
- We insert the steam generator into the guides and outline the places of the U-shaped suspensions. The PG is installed so that the dimensions of the sheet are divided by the inter-profile distance without a remainder:
- if the sheets are mounted along the width of the room, then the main profiles are placed every 0.4-0.45 m (width of the gypsum board is 120-125 cm);
- if the sheets are strengthened along the length, then after 0.5 m or 0.6 m (the length of the gypsum board is 3 m).
- We remove the profiles inserted into the guides and attach the suspensions to the marked places. We carry out the already familiar drilling operation and reinforce the extended hangers with anchors.
- We insert the PG again and fix them with plasterboard screws through the holes in the bent hangers, and then on the main guides, on the walls
- If your room is more than 3 m wide, it is supposed to strengthen a heavy lighting element (bronze chandelier) or decor - in the middle of the room, two profiles are installed next to each other and fix them in the main guides with self-tapping screws for gypsum board.
- To increase the rigidity of the structure, you can insert lintels between the reinforced profiles, and to fix them, use special fasteners - crabs.
- We bend or cut off with a grinder or e-mail. jigsaw protruding parts of the suspensions.
- If necessary, they insert insulation (sound and heat) and proceed with the installation of drywall.
Securing gypsum plasterboard
Necessarily! On all gypsum boards, it is necessary to remove the chamfer from the corners and only then begin their installation, leaving a 3 mm gap at the walls.
To install the sheets (due to their size and weight), 2 individuals are required - one on each side. Plasterboard is applied to the guides and screwed. Screw in the self-tapping screws, flush with their caps, every 20-30 cm, and install the sheets themselves with a shift (staggering).
The repair of a home or office begins, starting with finishing the ceilings. Aligning the ceiling with your own hands without the help of specialists is a rather laborious step in this difficult process. Consider the most relevant method - plastering alignment.
Ceiling leveling tools and accessories
Finishing work, in particular leveling the ceiling, is an expensive process, so you can try and do it yourself without resorting to the help of a master. Having decided to plaster the ceiling yourself, stock up on materials and tools.
We need the following tools and accessories:
- Plastic or galvanized buckets of sufficient volume (minimum 15 liters);
- Electric drill with different attachments (mixer required) and a power of at least 800 W;
- Spatula set - 50, 100, 200 mm;
- Stainless steel trowel (trowel);
- Plaster comb;
- Plaster float;
- Metal ironer (grater);
- Plaster falcon, long enough for the size of the room;
- Spongy grout;
- Wide brush or roller;
- Small pickaxe, hatchet, scoop;
- Rule made of aluminum, 2-2.5 m long;
- Bubble level (better laser);
- Rotband (Knauf) plaster mix;
- Screws 6x45 mm;
- Beacon profiles 6 mm;
- Primer "Betonokontakt" (Feidel);
- Hand protection gloves, respirator, tape measure.
Types of plaster mixes for the ceiling
The finishing stage begins with the preparation of a working solution - gypsum, cement or lime. Currently, gypsum plaster mixes are popular. Materials of German origin, such as Rotband (Knauf), are especially convenient in work on leveling the ceiling with your own hands. Let's compare plaster mixes for leveling ceilings.
Cement-based plaster for ceilings
It is a cement-sand mixture, various additives are used to increase its plasticity, for example, lime. It is universal, used for covering ceilings in any premises: living rooms, bathrooms, saunas, kitchens, etc.
The advantages include low cost, durability, strength. In addition, it does not freeze when mixing in large quantities, sufficient time for work.
Disadvantages: it dries for a long time (up to two weeks), it is difficult to work with it without sufficient experience, final putty is required, poor adhesion to a smooth concrete surface, work is accompanied by an abundance of dust and dirt.
Cement mortars are more durable, resistant to frost and increased moisture compared to gypsum ones, but this fact is not particularly relevant in a living room.
Lime plaster for ceiling
Most of the mixture is lime and sand, there is a small amount of cement and other additives for certain properties. It is used for plastering any premises, except for those where a lot of moisture collects - bathroom, swimming pool, sauna.
Its advantages: ease of application, fairly fast solidification, excellent antibacterial and thermal insulation properties, resistance to high temperatures, vapor permeability, contributing to the creation of a comfortable indoor climate, environmental friendliness, good adhesion to any surfaces, the lowest cost.
Disadvantages: record holder for fragility, poorly tolerates moisture.
Gypsum plaster for ceiling
The mixture contains mainly gypsum and mineral additives. Rotband gypsum mixture has the ability to better retain moisture than analogs, therefore it is recommended for kitchens and bathrooms.
There are few disadvantages, and they are completely overlapped by its advantages: it quickly hardens during operation, therefore batch mixing is recommended, does not tolerate mechanical damage, high cost, is afraid of water.
We list the advantages of gypsum mixtures:
- They make it possible to apply a thick layer of up to 50 mm in one pass without the risk of cracks during the operation of the room.
- Gypsum practically does not shrink, therefore, when solidified, it does not form cracks.
- When leveling the ceiling with gypsum plaster, less material is consumed for the same area, compared to cement mortar.
- Gypsum plaster is a very plastic material, record-breaking easy to work with, productivity - up to 40 m 2 per person per day.
- Good adhesion to the surface, low specific gravity makes this material problem-free for leveling the ceiling.
- Lower thermal conductivity and better sound insulation compared to cement.
- The ceiling, leveled with plaster mix, "breathes", creating a comfortable atmosphere in the house.
- With its help, it is much easier to level smooth, for example, concrete ceilings, does not slip.
- During operation, forms very little dirt and dust.
- Lays down evenly, does not require finishing putty.
- Eco-friendly mixture, harmless to humans.
- Prevents heat loss, absorbs and releases moisture well.
Ceiling preparation for leveling with plaster
It is possible to plaster the ceiling covering made of any material - wood, stone, concrete. Before leveling the ceiling with plaster, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.
Decontamination of the ceiling before plastering
Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the ceiling surface. Maybe it will show not only pollution, but also a fungal disease, mold. Disinfect if necessary. Remove traces of mold and mildew with a sponge dipped in water, treat them with a special compound.
For disinfection, you can use the following disinfectant solutions from domestic manufacturers (some are made on the basis of copper sulfate) or imported products:
- Homeenpoiste (Finland);
- Pufas (Germany) - in the presence of small spots of mold and mildew;
- Feidal Schimmel - Ex-concentrate (Russia);
- Belinka (Slovenia);
- Bagi Anti-Mold (Israel);
- Deo-anti-mold (Russia);
- Sepotosan-T (Russia);
- Mogel-Fri (Sweden);
- NEOMID (Russia).
In case of large-scale infections of the ceiling surface, it is better to subject the "mycelium" to a blowtorch or plasma welding. Chlorine-containing mold repellents do not give long-term results and must be handled with care.
Cleaning the ceiling before leveling with plaster
Carry out a complete cleaning of the ceiling from ancient paint, whitewash, plaster, various contaminants. Removal of the old coating is recommended, even in the event of visually invisible wear. So you can avoid cracking it in the future and save centimeters of ceiling height. The main tool for these works is a hard spatula.
Different cleaning agents and methods are used depending on the coating material:
- Whitewash can be removed with hot water.
- To remove plaster, wet the ceiling with a spray gun or roller and sponge, and not only will you get rid of the dust, but it will also be less laborious to separate it. When scraping off plaster, use a hammer chisel, ax, or crowbar.
- The enamel can be removed with a spatula in layers, and a particularly durable version will require the use of a drill with a special brush attachment (do not forget to wear a respirator and goggles).
- Removal of old paint is carried out with special solvents - domestic (Shchelkovo, Volgograd) or "Pufas" (Germany). If the paint is applied to the plaster and "fused" with it, then they are removed together 30-40 minutes after coating with the product.
Ceiling primer before plastering
The primer is applied to the cleaned ceiling to eliminate its defects and strengthen it so that the plaster does not fall off later.
The holes near the pipes are filled with polyurethane foam. After it is completely dry, the excess must be carefully cut off at the ceiling level.
If there are a lot of potholes and they are deep, then it is advisable to purchase a quick-setting cement-based putty "Spachtelmassse" or "Uniflot" from Knauf. Wide seams and cracks are additionally sealed over the putty with serpyanka tape. In case of a few damages, it is sufficient to seal them with Rotband gypsum putty.
The entire surface of the ceiling is treated with Knauf-Concrete Contact or a similar primer. With a brush dipped in the ready-to-use mixture for primer "Betonokontakt", work through all the rusty joints - ceiling joints, chips, pipe passages. This primer makes the surface slightly roughened, which contributes to good adhesion of the plaster.
The work is carried out with a medium-sized rectangular spatula. Defects are covered with small strokes, so that there are no gaps. After a strip of putty about a meter is formed, the excess is removed with a large spatula.
Smooth surfaces are primed as follows:
- Concrete priming... A smooth concrete surface does not hold the coating well. To increase the adhesion of concrete to the ground, the surface roughness is preliminarily created with a sandblaster, or notches, cuts are made on it, for example, with an ax.
- Priming wood and steel surfaces... On such complex surfaces, the plaster will not stick without the use of a special plaster mesh with cells of 10 * 10 mm. The metal mesh is attached to the ceiling with staples or wide-headed nails.
Installation of beacons on the ceiling for leveling
The next item of work on the ceiling is the installation of beacons that resemble rails. There are metal and plastic perforated lighthouse profiles with a depth of 6-10 mm and a length of 3000 mm. Lighthouses serve as a guide when leveling the ceiling with plaster. This is a very crucial moment, the quality of the plastered surface depends on the correctness of its implementation.
Perfectly horizontal ceilings do not exist in nature, according to experienced plasterers. If the ceiling is needed not so much horizontal, but simply visually even, then this step can be skipped to save consumables and alignment "by eye" by the rule. It's another matter if the surface of the ceiling is so curved that a global fix is needed. Then the installation of beacons cannot be avoided.
Beacon installation technology consists of the following stages:
- Level the ceiling. To do this, you need to measure the height of the walls in all corners of the room, find the smallest one and mark the zero level with a pencil. Using a water level, this distance is applied to the remaining (large) corners and a pencil mark is put.
- With a whitewashed cord on the walls, horizontal lines are beaten between the marks. This is the mark for the lower boundary of the future revised ceiling.
- Under the beacons on the ceiling, draw parallel lines with a pencil, or simply mark the beginning and end of each profile. We must try to draw lines in high areas in order to reduce the amount of solution.
- Studs are driven into the pencil line and the marks in the corners, or screws are screwed in, the fishing line is pulled with effort between them. The number of beacons depends on the size of the room. It will take about 2-3 rows at a distance of 130-180 cm from each other.
- Beacons are placed along the stretched line. To do this, stepping back 10-15 mm from the wall, apply a solution from a rotband or fugenfüller, on which a lighthouse rail is glued.
- The ends of the lighthouse profile are leveled along the broken line on the wall, then leveled using the building rule and a small level (they can be fastened to each other with wire).
- The next row of the beacon profile is located at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule. For example, if the building rule is 1.5 m long, then the distance between the beacons will be approximately 1.3 m.
- Leave the beacons installed on the ceiling to dry for 2-6 hours, otherwise they can be accidentally knocked down when plastering.
When leveling the ceiling with Rotband, take into account that the plaster dries quickly, and the installation process of the beacons must be done very conscientiously. To get some margin of time for leveling the beacon profile, it is better to fix it with a regular starting putty.
Features of leveling the ceiling with plaster
Having finished preparing the ceiling for alignment, we proceed to the main stage of finishing - the actual application of plaster. This method is indicated if a perfectly horizontal ceiling surface is not an end in itself. If the ceiling has a large curvature, but you want an impeccable result, then the use of plaster in this case is not justified, since a large amount of work and material will be required.
Ceiling plastering
When the lighthouses are completely dry, you can start plastering with the prepared solution. The process of plastering on beacons consists in throwing a mixture between their rows and stretching it with a rule. Having finished working with one row, they move on to another.
The technology for applying the leveling mixture is as follows:
- The mortar is applied with a small spatula on the falcon, then on the ceiling with spreading movements, filling the space between the beacons.
- The entire prepared mixture is laid out and a rough leveling of the basting is made with a large spatula towards you. The rule should be firmly pressed against the beacon profiles so that there is no excess solution left.
- The layer is aligned with the aluminum rule in zigzag movements towards itself. The grooves left by the rule are immediately filled with mortar.
- If it is necessary to apply several layers, each subsequent one is applied no earlier than after 20 minutes. The layer is immediately leveled, checking the level of the beacons.
- After leveling the area between the beacons, after 10-15 minutes, grout the treated area with a sponge soaked in water until it is flawlessly smooth.
- Hard-to-reach places around pipes and in corners are cut and leveled with a spatula.
- The ceiling is leveled, all beacons must be removed and the furrows left by them must be repaired.
- Check the ceiling for evenness using a rule. Cut off the excess, add where there are pits. Fill the corners and joints of the ceiling with the walls with a trowel.
- The leveled ceiling should dry out for a while until matt appears. As soon as the plaster has acquired the desired condition, it should be smoothed with a steel trowel or trowel in a circular motion.
- To get rid of the need for finishing putty, it is necessary to re-grind the ceiling with P150-170 sandpaper or a metal float within 24 hours. Pre-moisten the ceiling generously with water.
- Plastering the ceiling is almost complete. The surface is almost perfect and ready for painting, pasting, tiling. Smoothness "to zero" can be achieved only by subsequent finishing putty and sanding.
Important! Until the plaster layer is dry, you must not open the windows to ventilate the room.
Features of working with gypsum plaster
Leveling the ceiling with gypsum plaster is much easier than traditional sand-cement mortars. With some skill, a beginner will also cope with the work. But there are several peculiarities in the preparation of the solution and its application.
The features of mixing the solution are as follows:
- Gypsum mixes quickly solidify, so they are prepared in an amount sufficient for half an hour of work.
- During the plastering of the ceiling, it is unacceptable to add dry matter, water, or other components to the mixture, as this will upset the balance.
- To level the ceiling, the solution is made less thick than for the walls. Then it sticks better to the surface, and gravity will not cause the plaster to collapse.
Materials of German origin, such as Rotband (Knauf), are especially convenient in work on leveling the ceiling with your own hands. They allow you to process the ceiling without using any additional materials. It is important when leveling the ceiling with Rotband to process the entire ceiling in one day so that the stripes between the beacons do not dry out. This makes it easier to dock them, and they will not differ from each other.
How to level the ceiling with plaster - watch the video:
Having decided to level the ceiling on your own, it should be borne in mind that the upcoming work is quite voluminous. Do not be afraid of difficulties, with modern materials it has become much easier.
When planning to carry out work on leveling the ceiling, first assess the condition of the surface. With the use of building mixtures, it is good to level the ceilings when the skew is not very pronounced.
Ceiling leveling tools
To level the ceiling, stock up on good tools. You will need a roller and paintbrush to apply the primer and sanding paper. You will also need metal spatulas - it is better that there are three of them, of different sizes. More convenient to use tools with a rubberized handle. If you stopped at plastering, prepare a container in which you will mix the composition, it should have high sides and straight walls. So, when mixing, there will be less splashes, and straight walls make it possible to completely pick up the solution with a spatula, which will provide a more economical consumption. The primer itself must be chosen depending on what materials will be used in the future - it can be a mixture for water-based paint, for plaster or putty, as well as universal mixtures.
Leveling the ceiling with mortar
Use a laser level to determine the degree of skew. If the skew is not more than two centimeters, you can use the building mixture intended for this to level the ceiling - for example, a rodbant is perfect. For large irregularities, it is recommended to use gypsum board.
The surface must be well cleaned of dust, dirt and remnants of the old coating. Rinse the ceiling and let it dry. Next, the ceiling is primed. It is better to choose a universal primer mixture for all types of finishes. The next step in leveling the ceiling will be to seal cracks and various defects with the help of a rodband.
When cracks, cracks and other defects have been eliminated, the ceiling must be putty. Apply the putty compound with a metal spatula, movements should be measured, viscous. A layer of putty, depending on the unevenness of the ceiling, should be made with a thickness of 1-3 mm. The putty will dry for about 6-8 hours, depending on the thickness of the layer. After drying, grout must be done.
Leveling the ceiling with drywall sheets
Using drywall to level the ceiling will be easier in some ways, but the process will still require certain skills. Leveling should also begin with thorough cleaning of the surface to be used. After preparation, a crate is attached to the ceiling, and drywall sheets are attached to it using self-tapping screws.
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The house is a cozy family hearth, where you want to return every day. Today, the demands of modern residents regarding the interior decoration of apartments and houses have increased significantly, but one common problem of many residential premises remains - uneven ceilings. On this score, there are several proven tips from experienced craftsmen on how to level the ceiling with your own hands.
Ceiling alignment methods
There are several ways to make the ceiling perfectly flat, which can be combined into two groups - "wet" and "dry" finishes. More specifically, to understand how to level the ceiling, the photos presented in the article will help.
The first finishing option involves the use of dry building mixtures, which are diluted with water before use. Dry ceiling can be leveled with plasterboard, plastic panels or so-called stretch ceilings. The choice of a way to level the ceiling with your own hands directly depends on the availability of communications under the ceiling and on the degree of difference in the height of the ceiling.
So, if communications are laid under the ceiling, then a "dry" method of finishing is used using a suspended ceiling system. The best way to level the ceiling dry depends on the preferences and financial capabilities of the owner.
In the absence of communications, the choice of technology is determined based on the degree of ceiling drop. So, if the height difference exceeds 5 cm, then the "dry" finishing method is more rational. If the difference is less than 5 cm, then the curved ceiling can be leveled both "dry" and "wet" using plaster and putty.
With a drop of less than 2 cm, the ceiling is simply covered with two types of putty, and if the drop is from 2 to 5 cm, then the "raw" method in this case involves additional strengthening of the ceiling surface with a reinforcing mesh.
How to level the ceiling with plasterboard?
Plasterboard finishing is a democratic option for "dry" ceiling finishing. To begin with, the height of the base of the ceiling is determined, i.e. its lowest point. Next, marks are applied to the walls, along which the frame system of profiles is installed. It is especially important to know how to properly align the ceiling with your own hands using drywall: the frame of such a ceiling must be securely fixed in order to avoid possible cracks on the ceiling in the future.
The resulting frame is sheathed with sheets of drywall, and the seams between the sheets are clogged with a special putty. After the putty is completely dry, the surface is carefully sanded.
How to level the ceiling with plaster?
Plastering is a variant of the "wet" finishing of ceilings. The surface of the ceiling is carefully cleaned and primed. For better adhesion of the plaster to the ceiling surface and to avoid further cracking of the plaster coating, a reinforcing mesh is used, which is attached with an adhesive or using special brackets.
Next, a layer of plaster no more than 15 mm thick is applied to the ceiling. In places where a thicker layer is needed, the plaster is "combed", the coating is allowed to dry, the surface is primed again and the next layer of plaster is applied. After the plaster dries, the ceiling is putty. A video on how to level the ceiling in this way will help to visualize the entire finishing process.