A drill in the household today is simply irreplaceable, almost all craftsmen have it in their arsenal. Some models include a percussion mechanism, which is shown by the diagram, which can be seen in Fig. 1. In this case, the device is more functional. The device can be seen from the diagram in fig. 2, it shows the speed controller under the number 1; under number 2 - reverse; number 3 denotes a brush holder with the brush itself; 4 is the stator of the motor; 5 - impeller designed for engine cooling; the gearbox is located under the number 6.
Tool motor device
The drill has a collector motor in its design, which includes 3 main components, among them:
- stator;
- anchor;
- carbon brushes.
Figure 1. Diagram of the device striking mechanism drills.
The first mentioned element is based on electrical steel, which is characterized by the quality of excellent magnetic permeability. It is made on the principle of a cylinder and has devices for mounting stator windings. The latter are contained there in the amount of two, and their location is opposite each other. The stator is firmly fixed in the main unit housing.
The rotor is represented by a shaft, the latter has a core made on the basis of the same steel. Along the latter, there are grooves spaced equally spaced. The windings are laid in a single wire and have taps, which are designed to be fixed to the collector plates. This forms an anchor, which is composed of segments. The manifold is located on the shaft end and is securely fixed to it. During start-up, the rotor rotates in interior space stator on bearings. Brushes move along the plates during the operation of the installation. They are based on graphite.
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Triac regulator
The triac regulator located in the start button is responsible for the speed of the installation when the drill is turned on. This regulator is mounted in the button body and is located on a lining made of PCB. The board is equipped in such a way that it has small dimensions, which allows it to be fully positioned in the trigger space. After activating the power button in the device's regulator, an immediate break occurs, at this moment the circuit is closed in a scanty period of time. And the regulator is not able to affect the voltage variation, however, it undergoes a change in the rms voltage level.
After the drill starts working, an alternating voltage enters the network.
Figure 2. Drill spare parts.
In parallel with this, a sinusoidal voltage is supplied to the control electrode of the triac. In the period when its level turns out to be higher than the voltage of the operation of the triac, the latter opens, which indicates the closure of the circuit, at this moment the current flows through the load.
Wiring diagram and connection of the installation button in different models they can differ from different manufacturing plants. The most simplified of all circuits and the one that best illustrates the principle of operation is shown in Fig. 3. One wire from the power cord connects to the governor. The figure shows the electrical diagram of the apparatus, where “reg. ob. " - speed regulator, “1st st. obm. " - primary stator winding, "2nd st.obm." - respectively, secondary, "1st brush." - the first brush.
In order not to get confused, it should be remembered that the speed governor and the reverse control system are represented by completely different components of the tool, which in some models even have separate bodies.
Figure 3: Typical Drill Speed Controller Diagram
Only 2 wires are suitable for the speed controller. And the one that comes out of the speed controller is connected to the beginning of the stator primary. In the absence of reverse, the end of the primary would be conjugated with the rotor brush, and the second brush would be associated with the beginning of the stator secondary. The end of the secondary goes to the second wire of the cord, from which the drill is powered during operation.
The rotor starts to work in the other direction at the moment when the end of the primary is connected to the second brush. In the reverse system, a similar connection is carried out, for this reason the rotor brushes are mated with the stator windings through it. In fig. 4 shows the connection diagram for the reverse of the apparatus. Wires in the amount of 4 pcs. go to the rotor brushes, those that have in gray, go to the end of the primary and the beginning of the secondary.
The system for adjusting the speed of the apparatus assumes the presence of a capacitor and the connection to the regulator of the wires that come from the outlet. If we take into account the installation from the example, then only two contacts are used, which are located below. In this case, the system is completely devoid of a capacitor, and the second wire of the cord is connected directly to the stator winding.
The drill is considered one of the most popular DIY tools and is used in many types of work. Due to heavy use, tool parts can break and damage the device. Do not rush to the service center: it is quite possible to repair the drill with your own hands and save a lot of money.
If you know the device of the drill and the principle of operation of the tool, then self-repair of the product will not complicate you.
Regardless of the model or manufacturer, all of these electrical tools consist of a typical set of basic components.
- Network cable... Many of the users do not pay due attention to the cord connecting the tool to the mains, and in fact, according to statistics, 50% of electrical product failures occur because of it. The cord breaks easily during operation, its frequent breaks are the entrance to the handle of the device and the soldering point of the contacts on the start button. The defect often occurs due to the mobility of the entire button block.
- Capacitor... This small rectangular piece is located in the handle of the drill and is designed to suppress arcing artifacts.
- Start button... One of the weakest points is that in case of problems in the electrical part of the product, it is tested immediately after the cable.
- Stator electric motor ... In the event of a short circuit, a winding breakdown may occur - a very unpleasant case, it is necessary to rewind the entire winding. There is a rotor or an anchor inside.
- Support bearing.
- Location nodes electric motor brushes... Brushes are made of durable graphite and are erased from long-term use; they can be guilty of a malfunction of the electrical part of the product - during normal operation, each of them sparks. Frequent problems - a wad of dust between the body of the brush and the rotor.
- Collector... If its contacts are clean, then the rotation of the rotor is smooth.
- Product body.
- Fan... It is designed to continuously cool the electric motor of the drill.
- Mode switch.
- Reducer... It is always present in any model, since the chuck is not directly put on the rotor axle.
- Largest reducer gear. Frequent malfunctions: dust and foreign particles get into the lubricant, because of this, it loses its properties, and the gearbox wears out quickly and needs to be replaced.
- Two chuck bearings... It is they who bear the greatest load, so they need periodic inspection and maintenance- removal, flushing, replacement of grease.
- The axis on which the chuck is mounted... In hammer drill models, it has a return spring.
- Product cartridge... Its collet mechanism for clamping a drill or various attachments can be of a quick-clamping type or clamped with a special wrench.
Any do-it-yourself drill repair must begin with a visual inspection of all parts. The principle here is simple - from simple to complex, that is, first we check the cord, wiring, contacts, different mounts, then we start testing the blocks and the engine. It does not always come to a complete disassembly of the product, but in practice you need to be prepared for such a development of events. How to disassemble a specific model, the instruction manual will help.
Frequent breakdowns
Regardless of the build quality and manufacturer, the following malfunctions occur quite often:
- the electric motor fails due to a breakdown of the armature or stator;
- extreme wear of brushes;
- bearing problems;
- the speed control button does not work;
- the contacts of the start button are oxidized or burned out;
- breakage of the chuck holding the drill due to wear of the jaws.
If you decide to make repairs electric drill on your own, then first you need to diagnose and find a malfunction. It is rarely possible to repair a failed part on its own, as a rule, it is simply replaced with a new one.
Electrical problems
Before disassembling the drill, make sure it is disconnected from the mains. Any disassembly begins with the removal of the fasteners. Then we unscrew the screws and self-tapping screws, remove upper part products - all components remain at the bottom. Drill wiring diagram quite simple - there is no need to separately describe all the elements, everything is already intuitive.
Naturally, it is much more difficult for models with electronic adjustments, but it is hardly possible to repair a drill with such units on your own, it is better to entrust this to specialists from the service center.
Connection cord
When the power goes out, you just need to change the position of the product - the reason lies in the cable, most likely one of the wires broke... It is necessary to disconnect the drill from the mains and check with a multimeter cable. Can be used simplest option- light bulb and battery in one circuit.
Attention! Pulling the cord when the drill is plugged in is strictly prohibited, in order to avoid a short circuit - you will have to rewind the motor winding.
After checking, you can bend it as you like so that find the place of the cliff, then a part of the cable is cut off, the wires are stripped and new contacts are created for connection. When a break occurs in the middle of the cable, then it must be completely replaced with a new one. True, thrifty users prefer to connect broken wires by soldering followed by reliable insulation the place of repair, but there is no longer complete confidence in such a wire.
Power button
This item has an extremely simple design, but if a problem occurs, it will prevent the drill from turning on. Its work is simple: the key slides into special unit, and closes the contacts with a pusher finger. From long-term operation inside the block dust accumulates, which prevents the button from moving and blocks it, preventing the contact circuit from closing. The defect is easily eliminated - open and remove dust with a brush.
Important! Never try to lubricate the sliding surfaces of the button - the dust will mix with the grease and deplete, resulting in the entire unit being replaced.
To repair the drill button, you need to remove the side wall, check the integrity of the contacts. When carbon deposits have formed, clean the contact with fine sandpaper... If the contact burns out, we change the entire block.
Rotor brushes
Not all users know that power from the mains is transmitted to the rotor using brushes made of graphite - when normal work constant sparking occurs between them and the rotor. There are times when a wad of dust is crammed between the armature and the brush, and since the dust is a dielectric, the drill will not work until we remove the dust and restore contact.
During use, the brushes gradually decrease, because their lower part is erased. Periodically they need to be inspected and changed - it's easy to do, you just need to have a new set in stock.
When you notice strong sparking in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe brushes, and have recently changed them, this can happen due to rotor problems or its manifold.
Checking the rotor
For a thorough check, carefully remove the rotor from the stator. Contacts can be charred or have scale - you need to clean them with sandpaper strictly in the direction of rotation. The reason the appearance of dross may be long work at maximum speed. How to check if the rotor is working properly? Ring the adjacent lamellas with a multimeter - their resistance should be identical.
Do not forget check winding- whether there was a short circuit with the magnetic circuit case. In the event of a breakdown, the faulty winding is rewound independently or taken to a service center.
Drill stator
Visual inspection should be done periodically: in case of overheating, when the product was operated with maximum loads could melt protective varnish and happen turn-to-turn closure... In this case, the winding will burn out, and the electric motor is unsuitable for further operation. The check is done in the same way as in the case of the rotor - we check the windings with a multimeter. If a breakdown is detected, the stator winding must be rewound.
Leading Impact Drill Manufacturers Special attention pay to the protection of the winding wires, because their products operate in a special mode.
Mechanical damage
Why does the device still not function if you have checked everything and ruled out breakdowns in electrical diagram drills? There can be only one answer - the non-working state of the product arose due to the presence of mechanical faults.
- Bearings do not work... Dust gets into the grease due to the breakthrough of the stuffing box, so they wear out quickly and can jam at some point. It is easy to eliminate: we wash the bearing in kerosene, change the oil seals, fill in new grease, better than a special composition for products with high rotational speeds.
- Broken reducer- a very serious breakdown, you need spare gears, or you will have to replace the entire module. It is only necessary to install the same model. If the drill is a common modification, then it is not a problem to buy spare parts for it in stores.
- Experts consider one of the most difficult malfunctions breakage of cartridge parts.
During work, drilling waste often gets into the inner part of the chuck, they mix with the lubricant, which wedges the inner jaws. The cartridge must be disassembled, all parts are washed and lubricated before assembly. If extreme wear is found, then the part must be replaced; if the base or sleeve is severely worn, the entire block should be replaced.
We tried to tell you about all the failures encountered during the operation of electric drills. Remember that DIY repairs are always much cheaper than buying a new product.
Drill repair can be carried out on your own, the main thing is to know the causes of breakdowns and methods of their "treatment". Today we will talk about how the drill button connection diagram looks like, we will not ignore other malfunctions, thanks to which you will be the happy owner of a working tool.
If your tool has begun to work worse, or has completely ceased to perform its direct duties, it is time to diagnose malfunctions and try to cope with them. First, we check the wire for damage and the voltage in the outlet, for which you can turn on any other device - a TV or a kettle.
If you are inspecting battery-powered devices, you need to check them when using the tester - in this case, the voltage indicated on the case should have the same value as the battery voltage.
If the voltage is less, you will have to replace the batteries with new ones. If the battery is working properly, the power supply is normal, look for problems in the hardware. The most frequent breakdowns think:
- Problems with engine operation;
- Wear of brushes;
- Problems with the operation of the button.
Knowing how the electric drill button is connected, you can quickly solve the problem. In addition, a problem with the operation of the drill may also arise due to the dustiness of the tool, because the drill "takes" wood, brick, and other materials. This means that you should take care to clean the device after each use - this is the only way to reduce the risk of malfunction due to dirty tools. That is why after you have carried out, immediately clean the drill.
Unfortunately, in order to check the functionality of the tool, you will not have enough tester, which is due to the fact that most of The buttons of the device are equipped with a stepless speed control, and therefore a conventional tester may give you incorrect data. In this case, you will need a special wiring diagram for the drill button. Often in tools, one wire is connected to a terminal, and therefore pressing the button at the same time leads to ringing of the terminals. In the event that the light comes on, everything is fine with the button, but if you notice a malfunction, it's time to replace the button.
When replacing, keep in mind that the scheme can be either simple or with a reverse. Due to this, all work on replacing the button must be carried out exclusively according to the scheme, without adding anything "from oneself". So, the part must be suitable in size and correspond to the power of the tool. At the same time, calculating power is a fairly simple exercise. We use the formula P = U * I (taking into account that the power of the drill is 650 W), I = 2.94 A (650/220), which means that the button should be 2.95 A.
Despite the fact that this process is quite complicated, you can do all the work with your own hands, observing some important rules... For example, remember that opening the case can cause all parts and loose parts to simply fall out of the case. Naturally, this should be avoided, because then it will be quite difficult to put the device together. To do this, you can gently lift the cover, noting the exact location of the parts on the paper.
The button is repaired as follows:
- First, the clips for the casing are hooked, after which it is carefully pulled together;
- All rusted and darkened terminals are cleaned of carbon deposits, for which you can use alcohol or sandpaper;
- We reassemble the tool, making sure that all the parts of the device are in place, and we check the performance of the drill - if nothing has changed, we change the part;
- We fill the turnover regulator with a compound, and therefore, if the part fails, we simply replace it;
- A frequent breakdown is the erasure of the working layer under the rheostat - it is better not to repair it, just waste your time, it is better to buy a new one and replace it.
Many are interested in where to get such a scheme? First of all, it should come with the tool when you buy it, but if there is no scheme, or you have lost it, you will have to search the Internet. After all, only with its help you will be able to carry out the repair correctly, without errors. By the way, the speed control button and the reverse control button are located in different places, and therefore they will have to be checked separately.
There are several reasons for drill armature or stator breakage. First of all, it is the illiterate operation of the device. For example, many users simply overload the tool, carrying out work without interruption. This leads to the fact that the drill motor does not have time to "rest". The second reason lies in the poor winding wire, which is often found in cheap models. That is why breakdowns of cheap tools are much more common. In this case, repairs must be carried out using a specialized tool. And it will be better if you entrust this work to professional specialists.
However, if it was decided to carry out the repair on its own, you will certainly have a question - how to do everything right? As you already understood, it "suffers" from breakdowns of the armature and stator, and this can be checked by several signs, for example, when the tool suddenly sparks during operation. If there are no "bright" signs, you can use an ohmmeter.
The stator is changed like this:
- First, carefully disassemble the device case;
- We remove the wires and all internal parts;
- After finding out the reasons for the breakdown, we change the spare part to a new one, close the case again.
But the drill may not work due to trivial malfunctions - for example, because of the brushes inside the motor. This means that you cannot do without repairing brushes, while this work is quite simple - you do not even need to have special knowledge and tools. To do this, we disassemble the device, remove the brush holders from it and change the parts that are broken. By the way, there are models, the body of which can not be disassembled - in them you just need to remove special plugs through the installation window, after which we change the brushes.
You can purchase these parts in any hardware store, there are also some models that are sold with a set of extra brushes. It is important that you do not wait until the brushes are completely worn out - check them from time to time. And all due to the fact that there is a risk of a gap between the bristles and the collector. As a result, this part will start to overheat and will disappear over time - which means that you will have to change the whole anchor, which will be much more expensive and more complicated, and it is not a fact that you will be able to solve this issue on your own.
As you can see, there are various breakdowns, many of which will be subject to you, others will be feasible only for specialists in service centers. And in order to reduce the risk of such breakdowns, you need to take care of your tool, clean it after work, check the condition of parts and brushes in order to replace them with new ones in time. However, if you see that you cannot handle it yourself, take the device to the workshop.
An electric drill in a home workshop takes special place... Therefore, tool breakage is a big enough nuisance. Despite the complexity of the design, it is quite possible to make an independent repair.
1. case and power cord;
2.button with switch-on unit - can be equipped with
reverse switch (speed regulator);
3. shaft rotation speed regulator (or reverse switch);
4.Gearbox housing - carries out load-bearing functions for rotating
elements;
5. gears and reducer mechanism;
6. bearings of the shaft of the cartridge and the armature of the engine;
7. electric motor;
8. brush assembly of the electric motor;
9. chuck with drill or cutter holding mechanism.
The drill never breaks as a whole: one of the elements fails. Having understood the design and interconnection of the power tool assemblies, it will be easier to localize the malfunction.
Algorithm for finding and eliminating electrical breakdowns
Drill repair is carried out according to the principle "from simple to complex". You should not immediately disassemble the tool to the screw, and assess the condition of all nodes at the same time.
- The drill does not turn on. We start with the power cord (at least before that, you should check the voltage in the outlet and extension cord). Having disassembled the case, we find the cable contacts, and "ring" them with a multimeter.
Important! Do not check the power cable with voltage applied! If the current-carrying conductors break, you can get an electric shock, or organize a short circuit.
We connect to the socket of the mains plug and the opposite terminal of the cord. Then we bend the cable several times along its entire length. Lost contact or his complete absence indicates the presence of an open circuit inside the insulation. If the fracture of the current-carrying conductor is close to the edge, the cable is cut and reconnected. It will just be a little shorter. If the gap is in the middle of the length, it is better to replace the wire. The splicing will be unsafe.
- The cord is working properly - we check the switch. We connect the multimeter to the terminals, and press the key. A large current flows through the contacts, sparking occurs (especially when dust enters the case). Contacts can corny oxidized. Carefully disassemble the switch body and clean the contact groups with fine sandpaper.
In case of breakage of metal parts, it is better to purchase a new unit.
- If there is an additional contact group in the circuit between the switch and the electric motor (for example, a reverse switch or a speed regulator), we diagnose this node as well.
- Next, we check the connecting wires from the switch to the motor brushes. If they are in order, we diagnose the brush assembly.
The springs should confidently press the brushes against the anchor lamellas; we check the carbon elements themselves for wear. If necessary, we change: spare parts are included in the delivery set, or purchased in specialized stores. The armature contact strips can be oxidized or clogged. They can be gently cleaned with fine sandpaper.
- A more complex breakdown is failure of the armature or stator windings. Using a multimeter, a short circuit is checked between the body of the unit and the contacts of the windings. Then the resistance is measured. The value should be the same on each winding, the variation in readings should be no more than 5%. Defective windings must be rewound.
- This can be done on your own, or in a repair shop (in any case, it will be cheaper than buying a new engine).
Mechanical malfunctions of an electric drill
Such breakdowns manifest themselves quite clearly. Extraneous noise, grinding, shaft jamming, etc.
- The motor rotates slowly and the windings get very hot. Or, during normal rotation, a characteristic hum (grinding) is heard. Most likely - the rotor bearings are worn out or clogged. Having disassembled the drill body, we carefully take out the rotor. It is removed together with the bearings. By twisting the outer clip, you will immediately determine the malfunction. If the bearings rotate tightly, they must be flushed with a penetrating liquid (WD-40 or regular kerosene)
Important! Make sure that no liquids get into the armature winding! Otherwise, the insulating varnish may dissolve, and an inter-turn circuit will occur.
Then grease is placed between the clips for high-revving units. Lithol or graphite grease for automotive bearings will do.
If there is a backlash between the bearing races, the units must be replaced.
Dismantling is carried out with a special puller or with an open-end wrench.
If there are no balls, be sure to find them in the case. Dropped objects can get caught between engine or gearbox parts and damage the entire unit.
- The bearings of the chuck shaft are diagnosed and repaired in the same way. Only dismantling them without a puller will not work.
- If the mounting place of the outer bearing race (bed) is worn out (this happens when the bearing is jammed), you will need to make liners of thin sheet metal. Otherwise, beating will occur when the shaft rotates.
- The engine rotates in normal mode, noise and grinding noise are heard from the gearbox housing. The shaft turns unevenly. Worn or destroyed gears of the reducer.
We disassemble the case and examine the gears.
It is advisable to wash the assembly of old grease and rotate the shaft 360 °, controlling the engagement of the gears. If a backlash or excessive wear of the teeth is detected, the mechanical part will have to be changed.
It is possible that the gearbox housing has simply accumulated a large number of dust. Together with the lubricant, an abrasive paste is formed. In this case, after flushing the assembly, simply add new grease.
Tip: The grease should be changed periodically without waiting for breakage.
Especially if you often drill stone walls.
- The cartridge is broken. For cam devices (turnkey) this is a great rarity, the design is reliable and simple. The unit is exposed to dust, therefore internal mechanism can jam corny. Most often, the gripper guides are clogged with small abrasive particles.
If the cartridge does not twist well, it is enough to blow it compressed air and treat with a penetrating lubricant.
Attention: The jaw chucks do not lubricate the inside!
Disassemble the part without special tool quite difficult. If some component is mechanically broken inside, you still have to change the entire assembly.
But keyless chucks, on the contrary, are easily disassembled and repaired.
They are not as reliable and do not carry the load well. To disassemble such a cartridge, it is enough to remove a pair of lock washers. You will easily find a broken or worn part that can be easily replaced.
How to remove a cartridge?
There are two types of fastening: Morse taper, and threaded. In the first case, you need to inflict several blows with a small hammer on the back of the cartridge. After which it can be easily removed.
For loosening the threaded fastener, the shaft is held wrench(there are special flats on the shaft).
There are no faults that cannot be corrected by hand. If a separate unit cannot be restored, only it changes, there is no need to buy a new drill.
To prevent breakdowns, you should adhere to simple rules:
- After dusty work, blow out the ventilation openings and inner cavity cartridge. Keep the instrument clean.
- Do not overheat the engine - take breaks for prolonged use.
- Refill the grease on the rotating parts periodically.
Due to frequent use, the drill button fails and in such cases it must be replaced. Connecting a drill button does not require special qualifications and therefore it is possible to replace a failed part on its own. How to connect the drill button on your own and what you need to do for this, we will talk in today's article.
Photo-1. Drill button equipped with reverse.
Reversible drill button
Usually the drill button gives us a signal in advance that it will soon fail. In such cases, the button starts to work intermittently or requires a strong press to turn on the electric motor. Then, after a while, the button stops working altogether. It is quite easy to detect a malfunction of the drill button in such cases. For a more detailed acquaintance with your own hands, I suggest visiting another article on this site.
To do this, unscrew the mounting bolts of the drill body, disassemble it and check the button with a probe. After that, plug into the socket and check the voltage at the input terminals. If your measuring device will show that there is voltage, and when the button is pressed, the engine does not turn on, this will mean that the button is out of order. As a rule, in such situations they buy new button drills and connect it yourself or try to open it and repair it.
How to connect the drill button, you can see in this video
Drill Button Diagram
Picture 1. Reverse button connection diagram
Drill button connection diagram
The drill button shown in the photo -1 is equipped with a built-in electric motor speed regulator and a built-in regulator for the direction of rotation of the rotor - reverse. The button is a very complex structure and therefore it should be disassembled very carefully, since usually after disassembly all its parts fly in all directions and its further use becomes impossible. After disassembly, as a rule, they clean the clamps from carbon deposits and collect it back, but if this does not help, then they buy a new one.
Photo-2. Conventional drill button without reversing
Drill button without reverse
It should be said that buttons are different, like electric drills, so you need to know that not all buttons are equipped with a reverse and an engine speed controller. However, such buttons also represent complex structures and as a rule, if they fail for some reason, they are no longer restored to working condition. When buying a new button, you should take the old one with you in order not to confuse it with another model. There are many cases when the parameters of the buttons coincide and when installed in the case, the drills simply do not fit.
Figure -2. Ordinary connection
Figure-diagram of the connection of the drill button without reverse
Connecting a drill button does not require special knowledge and skills. To do this, you just need to remember that the new button must match the power of the drill and its dimensions. If you are going to buy a new button for a drill, pay attention to the size and power of your drill. The button should correspond not only to the power of the electric motor of your drill, but also to the size. For example, if the drill has the power R= 650 W, then from physics we know that P = U I, where I = P / U= 650/220 and 2.95 A. So we need to buy a button BUE-3 ~ 220V 3.0A.
Drill Button Device
Well, at the end of this article, I would like to touch upon a question that many of you will encounter in the process of dismantling the old drill button. In order to make a high-quality dismantling of the button, you need minimal knowledge in the device of modern buttons for starting the drill.
In the video above, you can see how the button works when you press it. If the reverse lever is on tightening bolts, nuts, and so on, then the lower terminals are closed both. If you turn on the reverse in the opposite direction, then only one lower terminal is connected to the network, the second when this doesn't work. As a rule, in all modern drill buttons, the wire clamping devices are designed from strong steel and are not very convenient to dismantle.
The point is that button makers are concerned with increasing productivity when assembling their products. They design buttons to be as convenient, easy and fast as possible to install electrical equipment, but at the same time suffer from the convenience of replacing and repairing buttons.
Photo-3. The device of clamping terminals for electrical wiring in modern drill buttons
In other words, the prepared wire of the winding or other part of the drill for installation, you can easily shove it into the hole provided for it in the button body, but pulling it back out is problematic - you need skill and ingenuity. The clamping terminals in the button body itself are installed at an angle of 45 degrees, and made of hardened steel.
If you look closely at the photo-3 presented in this article, then you will agree with me that in order to pull out the wire, you just need to push the clip inside the button body and release the installation cable. To do this, you need a thin large needle or a thin durable awl, which you need to put into the hole reserved for mounting the wire and push the clip inside, thereby freeing the wire from the grip. That's all, in conclusion, I can say that the method I have described works very well (I checked it myself more than once). You can safely get down to work and replace the drill button yourself with your own hands. For today, as it were, everything, I am waiting for your comments below, bye, see you soon!