How to open a grinder disc. We work with an angle grinder correctly - how not to expose ourselves to danger? Let’s take a closer look at cutting wheels

Knowledge of how to properly work with an angle grinder can help you achieve your goal and save life and health. The mentioned tool does not tolerate neglect of safety precautions. Manufacturers emphasize that the operation of the equipment must be accompanied by compliance with the instructions.

Angle Grinder today it is much more functional than just a few years ago, when the tool could only be useful for grinding work. Today, these devices are indispensable in metalworking and construction. Externally, the grinder looks simple; it has a cylindrical body, on one side of which there is a handle, and on the other - a mount for attachments. It is the attachments that make this unit multifunctional. They are fixed to the spindle, while the discs are additionally secured with a clamping nut and flange. This measure is mandatory when working with the described tool.

Why do you need an angle grinder?

Having examined modern angle grinders, you will note that they are able to cope with many tasks, including:

• polishing;
• grinding;
• cutting glass, tiles, stone, plywood, concrete, brick and metal.

For each type of work and material, a specific abrasive tool should be used.

In order to understand how to work with an angle grinder correctly, you should familiarize yourself with the range of attachments, including brushes and circles. The first ones are intended for polishing and cleaning surfaces. At the same time, you can polish welding seams and clean rust from metal. Depending on the composition, different circles can be used to perform different tasks. Some can cut ceramics, while others are suitable for metal. You can find this information by reviewing the instructions on the disc or packaging.

Which grinder to choose

If you are faced with the question of how to properly work with an angle grinder, then you should know that not only the attachments are different, but also the angle grinders. They are presented in different classes, among which:

• industrial;
• professional;
• domestic.

The latter option is suitable for use for a limited time every day. A professional angle grinder can work for several hours every day. As for industrial equipment, it is a device that works almost tirelessly. The tools differ in appearance. Thus, the housing can be equipped with one or two handles, as well as vibration-absorbing handles.

Safety precautions when operating an angle grinder

Before starting the workflow, you must prepare the tool. To do this, a circle is selected and installed. The motor has a certain power, it requires the selection of a circle of certain sizes. The smaller the circle, the higher the rotation speed it can maintain. If the wheel is used incorrectly, it will cause wear on the equipment and deformation of the attachments.

If you are thinking about the question of how to properly work with an angle grinder to avoid injuries, then you should know that the tool should not be equipped with discs whose dimensions are larger than those for which the unit is intended. The nozzles must not be deformed. If cracks or potholes appear on the wheel, you should get rid of them. You should not use circles that deviate from the original shape.

After attaching the wheel, the tool should be started and checked in idle mode. The equipment runs at maximum speed for 30 seconds. If you do not notice any extraneous sounds or vibrations, and the protective casing does not touch the disk, then you can begin work.

Quite often, novice home craftsmen wonder how to properly work with an angle grinder. Before starting the manipulations, the operator should prepare himself, for this he needs to wear:

• special clothes;
• safety glasses or mask;
• respirator;
• thick gloves.

The operator needs to remove all jewelry, such as watches and bracelets, as they may be wrapped around the circle. Do not start work if you are tired or in drunkenness. Use excluded saw blades for wood when working with an angle grinder.

Fire safety and fastening of parts

The operator must ensure that no one is in the cutting plane. Do not let go of the tool until the disk stops completely. The equipment should not be touched before it has cooled down. IN work area There should be no flammable items, namely:

• solvents;
• fuel;
• ropes;
• rags.

If you are interested in the question of how to properly work with an angle grinder, then you should think about reliable fastening details. Everything that is processed and cut must be recorded. As an exception, there are elements that will remain motionless under the influence of their own weight, this includes slabs and stones. The part can be fixed in a vice. If this is not possible, you should use the help of a partner who will fix the workpiece or pipe with an adjustable wrench. It is prohibited to hold workpieces in your hands.

How to cut with a grinder

Many owners of the equipment described in the first stages of its operation are interested in the question of how to properly operate a small angle grinder. It is worth noting that the method of cutting the workpiece in this case is no different from that when a tool is used in the work professional class. Work areas must be cleaned, the workpiece must be marked, and only then can you begin work.

The equipment must be held with both hands. If the wheel jams, the tool should not be torn out of your hands. You should always be prepared for kickback, which can cause severe displacement. In general, kickback is one of the most dangerous moments when operating an angle grinder. In this case, a sharp sudden kickback of the tool occurs when the disk jams in the workpiece.

What else should definitely be mentioned when talking about how to work with an angle grinder correctly? Where the sparks fly during certain manipulations is what the master needs to keep an eye on. They should not come into contact with the face, legs or clothing. It is important to make sure that the power cord is out of reach of the drive. If you need to move to another object, you should first turn off the equipment and drag the cord. If there are power outages, the device must also be de-energized. It is very important to understand the question of how to properly work with an angle grinder - for yourself or for yourself. The answer to this question is the following statement: the movement of the tool and the direction of rotation of the disk must coincide. However, sparks will cover the markings. It is for this reason that operating rules are often ignored, but in vain. In order to prevent the wheel from jamming, the disk should be brought into contact with the workpiece at full spindle speed.

Basic rules for cutting

When cutting a workpiece, it is important to make sure that you follow the basic rules. The cutting line should pass the person, but not rest against him. If a disc jams, the jet motion of the equipment will bypass the operator. It is important to provide protection with a casing. It should be located between the worker and the circle.

There is no need to apply excessive pressure on the tool. The unit will be able to cope with tasks using its own weight. Whereas overloads will cause the circle to skew. It is impossible to turn on the angle grinder when the disc is in the profile of the workpiece. You should start cutting the profile from the place where the cross section is smallest.

It is important to remember that when cutting tiles, concrete and stone, a lot of dust will be generated. The respiratory system should be protected from it. Some manufacturers produce casings with a pipe for a vacuum cleaner. You can also suppress dust with water, directing the stream into the cut. If you need to work on cutting a wall, you must be prepared for the fact that reinforcement, pipe or cable may get under the circle. This will certainly cause a backlash. To avoid injury, stay clear of the equipment's offset line.

Conclusion

Even before purchasing the equipment described in the article, you should learn everything about how it should work correctly, which concerns not only the operating instructions for the instrument, but also the sound that accompanies the operation of the unit. It should be smooth; You should make sure of this by putting on the disc. You should not hear or feel any unnecessary sounds or vibrations during operation. Popping sounds, foreign odors and heating of the case are eliminated. If you notice such signs, then it is better to exchange the instrument.

Working with a tool brings me pleasure, I am guided by the rule: “if you want it done well, do it YOURSELF!” This post is more like my notes, so to speak, a reminder and a checklist necessary work when servicing, which may be useful not only to me...The article is based on my personal experience and knowledge highlighted by authoritative sources, so I do not pretend to be a guru or the only correct opinion.

Prevention is everything!)) Timely maintenance of the instrument, I think is no longer news to anyone, saves money and minimizes the likelihood of sudden breakdown and a number of inconveniences.

I think by analogy with medicine: “the main thing is to do no harm!” Initially, it is correct to understand the variant of the result of a hand-made repair as the last one for of this instrument, i.e. understand the risks and readiness to purchase a new angle grinder, but this is under the most unfavorable circumstances. Because as in any other business, there are a number of nuances and subtleties; without experience, it is very easy to make mistakes that will lead to additional costs for spare parts or even destroy several expensive components, making repairs unprofitable. On the other hand, not all repair shops are a panacea. Professionals and good craftsmen not much, but a negative “aftertaste” after contacting the service center is far from uncommon. Here is just a post in which I will try as much as possible to highlight the knowledge and advice that can help with independent maintenance and repair of angle grinders.

Checklist of necessary work when servicing grinders:

1. Disassembly
   • Removing the brushes
   • Removing the gear housing flange
   • Disconnecting the gearbox housing with rotor from the engine housing
   • Removing the drive gear from the rotor. Removing the rotor shaft from the gear housing bearing
2. Cleaning internal space, parts and external surfaces of housings
3. Checking the residual body of graphite brushes
   • *replacement*
     • cleaning the brush holder shaft
     • cleaning and prevention of the surface of the collector lamellas
     • replacing brushes with new ones
4. Defective gearbox
   • inspection of the condition of the tooth profile. Inspection for the moment of loss of fragments and chips of the teeth of the conical pair
   • checking the graphite-copper bushing for play
   • inspection of the seats for the keys and the keys themselves on the shafts and gears
   • checking bearings for play and lubrication
   • *replacement of bushings, bearings and lubrication
5. Rotor defect
   • Inspection of the rotor and stator windings for the moment of interturn short circuit and signs of overheating (darkened fragments, damage to the varnish coating)
   • Checking bearings for play and lubrication
   • Assess the condition of the collector
6. Inspect the wiring for pinching by the housing or damage to the insulation. Make sure correct installation in the seat of your pants. Status of contact groups
7. Reassembly in reverse order of disassembly
8. 2-3 minutes idling.

Collector-brush unit

Before you start disassembling the angle grinder, the first step is to remove the brushes, which are pressed to the commutator by a spring. Otherwise, damage to the brushes and cheek holders is possible when removing the rotor (armature). If the remaining graphite body of the brushes is less than 50% of new ones, it makes sense to replace them.

The old set, with a balance of at least 30%, should be saved in NZ for backup. They will be useful in cases of long searches and time for delivery of a new set or other force majeure situations. If the brushes are not equipped with an auto-stop function ("shot or groove with a response pin in the brush holder"), critical wear will most likely lead to the destruction of the commutator, up to and including replacement of the entire armature. IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO SAVE ON BRUSHES!

In cases emergency and the inability to choose the right ones and the willingness to adjust the size, do it right!:

1. If you choose, then it is desirable that only one side does not match, preferably the smaller one (width).
2. Treat with a fine-grained abrasive cloth (sandpaper no larger than 1000 grit, the brush is very fragile and brittle).
3. Work according to flat surface(eg glass), without pressure. After every few cycles of movements, check the size with a caliper, and also check that the planes of the brush body are parallel.

During service, the brush wears out, leaving a graphite-carbon deposit on the parts of the entire assembly. I have a separate video on how to clean the commutator and prepare it for installing a new set of brushes. It is difficult to overestimate the importance of this procedure.

Also, it is worth paying attention to the brush holder shafts. A layer of graphite particles and dust impedes nominal advancement, which can cause the brush to “hang”, causing a disruption of contact with the commutator, accompanied by increased sparking, up to the circuit being interrupted, i.e. stopping the engine, and in rare cases, burning out the lamellas and the known outcome of the armature. Cleaning only takes a couple of minutes. If the shaft is slightly dirty, then a dry rag will suffice (it is convenient to use a small flat-head screwdriver, the edge of which is wrapped in several layers of rags, as a guide). Sometimes it’s worth using additional alcohol on rags;)

Cleaning an angle grinder during preventive disassembly

Almost any mechanism loves: CARE, CLEANNESS and LUBRICATION! The instrument in general, and the grinder in particular, is no exception. The first step after disassembly is cleaning! IN ideal serves: compressed air and a purge nozzle for compressors, which speeds up and simplifies the process. Moreover, it is worth considering that the main cooling of the angle grinder occurs through the gap between the armature and the stator (well, it’s usually relatively clean there) and the shimmed rotor frame between the windings from the collector. It turns out hot air through the holes of the gearbox housing, which, by the way, serves as a heat exchanger (a kind of radiator), and a coating of lubricant with dust and a layer of various substances on the surface impairs heat transfer.

A deposit of dust and small particles on the motor windings and other parts of the grinder’s interior affects the reduction in heat transfer due to its insulating properties, which inevitably leads to an increase in operating temperature, up to overheating.

OVERHEATING is one of the most severe “killers” of a tool, responsible for a countless number of stacked pieces of equipment. Competition can only come from: the ranks of fellow borrowers, the use of tools for purposes other than their intended purpose, and the reluctance to stop working when the sound changes, indicating a technical malfunction

The best is the enemy of the good, or not everyone has a compressor in their arsenal. In such cases, you can use a clean brush and a vacuum cleaner with a narrowed nozzle for crevices (it helps when cleaning computers), and to increase the flow, the nozzle can be further narrowed using masking or other tape as a temporary measure. The brush lifts particles, and the vacuum cleaner nozzle removes them, including from hard to reach places. Using these methods, it is worth cleaning all the parts, internal cavities and body surfaces.

After particularly dusty work (drilling channels, working with stone or concrete, etc.), it is recommended to blow the tool externally (without disassembling) through the ventilation holes. Abrasive dust, as it passes, “exposes” the motor windings, removing fragment after fragment of the protective varnish coating. Many models of angle grinders are equipped with an “armored” layer that protects the windings, but not all, it’s worth taking this into account. When working with metal, especially when cleaning, metal dust has conductive properties, which interferes with the adequate operation of buttons and controls, and over time, also confidently renders the tracks and contacts of their boards unusable. Advanced LNA models are equipped with air intake filters or a “labyrinth” channel structure that prevents or delays the entry of large particles. For LNAs that are not equipped with filters, you can use a life hack by putting a woman's stocking on the back of the case and closing the air intake holes (use only for particularly dusty work, as this is a compromise between obstructing the air flow and containing dust in it). Also blow out the tool after grinding work.

Bearing check

For objective diagnostics of bearings, we disassembled each unit down to the detail. We evaluate the condition based on several factors:

• Axial play - to check, it is enough to move the outer race relative to the inner one diagonally from side to side, relative to the axis (or vice versa, depending on the installation), and also parallel to the axis.
• Radial play - move the outer race relative to the inner one perpendicular to the axis
• Noise during operation - make the bearing rotate quickly with a pulsed movement, listening for defects.

Even with very small deviations from the norm, it is recommended to replace the bearings, all at the same time. A defect identified manually is amplified by an order of magnitude during operation. A new bearing that is replaced tends to have a wear level equal to that of the non-replaced bearing within the same shaft.

In exceptional cases, when there is no play (more than nominal), and by all indications the noise has appeared quite recently, bearings with metal-rubber collars (designated RS) can be serviced by replacing the lubricant, which will slightly delay their replacement. The cuffs can be pryed with a needle or a knife blade (they are very easily deformed). Use a highly penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or analogues) to clean the internal surfaces, blow them off and apply new grease for the bearings, preferably with a metal conditioner or revitalizant. The amount of lubrication is also important. A deficiency leads to wear, and an excess leads to overheating during operation (it is worth adding approximately 1/2 of the free space). It is important to understand the responsibility of this procedure, immediately reacting in the future to the slightest change in the sound of the work.

Replacing bearings

Most likely, everyone knows the rule for installing bearings on a shaft or seat in housings, but I will outline it anyway. Installation on the shaft is carried out through the inner race of the bearing with a spacer of equal diameter. Fitting into the body, on the contrary, occurs through the end of the outer race also with a spacer equal to the thickness of the end of the race. Otherwise, ignoring these rules, the cage, balls and bearing tracks are damaged during installation. Such a bearing will immediately experience vibration, rapid wear and a very short service life.

In domestic conditions, it is practical to use socket heads, because... It is not difficult to choose the required diameter. The bearings are pressed in with short blows with little force through the spacer with a hammer. For removal, I strongly recommend using a special puller. Low cost, almost endless resource and unconditional benefits, 100% justify the purchase of this special tool. If there is no puller, then you can use two thrust plates and a vice to squeeze out the shaft.

The bearing shock absorber can also be installed incorrectly, after which the rotor installation axis is disrupted and, as a result, rubs against the stator with the most dire consequences. Alexandra's video reveals this topic in detail.

In situations where the user of an angle grinder is desperate and, despite obvious sound signs of a critical condition of the bearings, continues to work, a completely worn-out bearing can “fall apart” (separator, then cuffs, and then balls), but there are also cases when both races jam relatively each other and rotation occurs by the clip on the seat, naturally not without consequences in the form of an increased diameter. Ideally, replace the housing! Also, sometimes it is possible to select a bearing for a “new” seat size. And as always, a budget solution out of despair. If the wear is not critical, you can tighten the fit by capping the gearbox housing with aluminum alloy, but without fanaticism. Take this into account! The part will not survive the next bearing failure, 99% will need replacement.

One of the most common causes of gearbox housing casting failure, the investigation is not correct use locking mechanism. Overestimating the strength of the mechanism and the design of the stiffening ribs and the thickness of the casting, when unscrewing the equipment (“bitten disk”), operators use the locking function, which breaks out a fragment of the metal body. In such cases, it makes sense to replace the housing.

But if it's in this moment is impossible for objective reasons, but the performance needs to be restored, then do not be too lazy to disassemble the gearbox and thoroughly clean the old lubricant, replacing it with a new one (it may contain metal fragments), evaluate the integrity seat bushing/shaft bearing, as well as the resulting holes must be closed ( epoxy resin, sealant or other component). Otherwise, dust getting into the lubricant will create an aggressive environment that destroys the mechanism, and as a result, will lead to the replacement of the entire gearbox, calling into question the feasibility of restoring the angle grinder in general.

On almost any angle grinder, the spindle shaft is equipped with a slot for holding with an open-end wrench (thin, often 17 mm). In case of excessive loads when unscrewing, I strongly RECOMMEND using this method changing equipment.

Conical pair - places to pay attention to:

The integrity of the teeth - with a tangential profile (inclined), the loss of a fragment of one tooth is not critical, i.e. It will work, but ideally, replace it, especially pairs with straight teeth. Pay attention to wear on the surface of the teeth. Over time, the tooth “stretches”, becoming sharper towards the top. The edges usually work less, you can roughly focus on them. Such defects are accompanied by increased noise during operation.

As a budget solution (TEMPORARY, although nothing lasts forever...), I practice changing the installation of the run-up washer from the upper part (under the locking ring) to the lower part (under the planetary gear). This action will reduce the gap between the driven and driving gears, thereby increasing the contact patch. In some angle grinders, especially those from Bosch, there is a metal seal (a few tenths of a mm thick) between the flange and the gear housing; removing it, the same effect is achieved.

Key groove. Over time, wear appears on the key, shaft and mounting hole of the large gear. The nominal gap should be within a few tenths of mm (the so-called thermal gap). It can be checked simply by putting the gear on the shaft using radial movements from side to side. Usually, the key itself wears out first and it is enough to replace a cheap part. But it is worth carefully examining the grooves on the gear and shaft. When replacing the spindle shaft bearing in the housing flange, I also recommend checking the condition of the copper-graphite bushing, which is also responsible for the alignment of the mechanism and the nominal position of the spindle shaft. The removed shaft can be conveniently installed in the bushing and used as a lever to assess wear. When “cold”, the bushing always has a small thermal gap (about 0.1-0.4 mm), which partially decreases at operating temperature (a feature described in more detail in the category). If the displacement of the shaft in the bushing significantly exceeds the range, replacement in this situation (the mechanism is disassembled and the lubricant and shaft bearing are replaced) will be more than appropriate, given the low cost of the bushing.

When assembling the gearbox housing and installing the flange, it is worth turning the mechanism by the spindle shaft. This action eliminates tooth-to-tooth contact. Otherwise, by tightening the flange with screws, you can literally squeeze out fragments of the aluminum alloy of the housing with a press. Also, do not overtighten the nut securing the drive gear, due to the direction of rotation, it tends to self-tighten in most angle grinders with a tangential tooth profile (oblique)

It is recommended to replace the lubricant, just replace it and not add or partially change it (it’s like changing dirty socks from your left to your right foot or vice versa). An interval that is easy to follow: two brush changes - lubricant change. Surely everyone knows that when worn, the lubricant loses its properties, and the mechanism will wear out faster. Also, the result of any gearbox operation is metal microchips. The design of the case is not sealed, the smallest dust also penetrates and settles in the lubricant, which in total creates an abrasive environment, but it does its job 100%, mercilessly wearing out even the highest quality hardened metal. It is worth thoroughly cleaning the remains of old grease from all surfaces, taking the time to get to hard-to-reach places. A fragment of a chipped tooth, retaining ring, key, body, etc. and the above-mentioned abrasive can be mixed into a new lubricant and it will be annoying when such a trifle as a small fragment, falling between the teeth of a conical pair, causes irreparable harm.

Lubricant should be purchased based on the manufacturer’s recommendations (in the instructions for the grinder or the manufacturer’s website...); in most cases, a lithium-based lubricant will be appropriate. Personally, I assemble the gear mechanism with high-consistency lithium-based grease NL Gi 2 for high-speed gears. It is sticky, which keeps it on the contact patch, even when high temperatures, without draining like most analogues. Modern market offers many options, everyone will find one that suits their requirements. Also follow the “golden mean” rule for determining the amount of lubricant (too much leads to wear, and too much leads to overheating during operation (it’s worth adding approximately 1/2 of the free space))

Perhaps this is banal or too superficial, but still. Before work, I download the original “explosion diagram” of this model to my smartphone or laptop, it won’t hurt. When disassembling a previously unfamiliar mechanism or device, I place hardware that will not interfere in the future in its standard places, if possible. For other situations, I use several containers, grouping hardware and small parts by units and parts. During the disassembly process, according to the order in which the parts were removed, I place them in the appropriate order on the free edge of the workbench. Such lines determine the order of assembly. Also, before disconnecting components such as buttons, regulators, stators, etc., where there is a high probability of disrupting the correct connection, before removing, I take a photo with my phone for a “cheat sheet”; you can also mark pairs of connections. These decisions have repeatedly saved me time and nerves, and were found in the form of correctly drawn conclusions, analyzing my mistakes, but you are wiser and will learn from mine.

After assembly, I fix the start button and place the working angle grinder on a flat, smooth surface for a couple of minutes. At idle, the brushes will properly rub against the commutator, taking on its circumferential shape, the surface of the lamellas will finally form, the balls of the new bearings will rub against their tracks, and the warm lubricant will be evenly distributed over all surfaces. By the behavior of a working angle grinder on the surface, vibration can be judged. A moving angle grinder makes you aware of vibration, and a smoothly working +/- in a static place indicates minimal beating, i.e. humming) Also, after this test, the sound of operation should normalize, otherwise you need to look for the problem and check the correctness of your repair.

In fact, maintenance work on an angle grinder does not take much time (even if you read this entire post), taking into account the fact that everything you need is available. But every minute spent will be rewarded with thorium.

Wisdom of the post: “Timely prevention - delays repairs”, “If you’re not sure, don’t try”, “If you want to do it well, do it yourself”, “Krailovo - attracts people to get caught”, “Try to do it perfectly, it turns out badly on its own”, “Money saved - earned"

An angle grinder (angle grinder), popularly called a “grinder”, is widely used on construction sites and in everyday life during repairs. It can be used to perform many different technological processes. In order to choose the right tool for a certain type of work, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of discs and attachments for angle grinders. The tool for this device is selected according to size and purpose.

When choosing a disc for an angle grinder, you must ensure that the outer diameter of the attachment does not exceed the maximum valid values compatible with your angle grinder.

• For example, if a grinder is designed to use a circle with a maximum diameter of 125 mm, then a 230 mm circle cannot be installed on it. And there are several explanations for this: will be exceeded linear speed cutting edge , which is fraught with destruction abrasive wheel
• and causing injury to the user;
• a small grinder does not have enough power to work with a large tool; installation of a nozzle exceeding permissible dimensions

, requires removal of the protective casing, and this is a violation of safety rules. Discs for angle grinders have standard sizes : 115, 125, 150, 180 and 230 mm. In modern grinders landing diameter

(the diameter of the shaft on which the tool is mounted) is almost the same and equals 22.2 mm. If you have an outdated model of an angle grinder lying around, you will need to use adapters - rings of different diameters. All abrasive wheels of any size have special marking , from which you can find out the following information: disk diameter and thickness, seat diameter, maximum speed

rotation, as well as what materials it is intended for processing.

Purpose of discs and attachments

• Grinder circles differ in purpose for:
• cutting;
• roughing
• grinding;

sharpening

Cutting discs The most common task performed with a grinder is cutting various materials

. The choice of tool material also depends on what material will need to be cut.

Therefore, if you are still going to use a saw blade on wood, you should adhere to safety precautions. The grinder must have a protective casing and handle installed, and the user must wear a protective mask or goggles. In addition, you cannot cut materials with this tool that are not intended for it.

The safest are considered to be wood discs with a chainsaw chain installed at the end. If the tool jams, the chain remains in place and the disc rotates idle, which reduces the likelihood of injury to the user.

Roughing If it is necessary to remove a layer of paint or other application, as well as rust from any surface, use brushes

. They come in disc form or in the form of a bowl with built-in metal wire.

The wire in these nozzles can be twisted or loose. Its thickness can also vary. The thicker the wire, the coarser the stripping, the stripping disc or cup-shaped attachment is used, and vice versa.

Grinding various surfaces(metal, wood, plastic and others) are used grinding discs and nozzles. A grinding wheel is often used for grinding. petal type. It consists of many “petals” made of sandpaper. The grit of sandpaper can be selected based on the required type of processing (finishing or roughing).

The sandpaper can also be attached to the nozzle with Velcro. Such a tool is screwed onto the angle grinder spindle.

For polishing surfaces, special wheels and attachments are produced that look like felt pads or fabric discs.

Sharpening

To sharpen a tool, sharpening machines (sharpeners) are usually used. But if you don’t have the latter, but have a grinder, then you can purchase a sharpening (grinding) wheel for it, which can easily sharpen almost any cutting tool.

Main difference grinding wheels from cut-off ones – this is their thickness (at least 5 mm).

How to correctly change a disc on an angle grinder

Since grinder circles are consumables, then sooner or later they have to be changed. They are attached to the angle grinder spindle using a clamping flange (nut) with an M14 thread. To unscrew it, the grinder must come with a special open-end wrench having pins on one side.

So, to replace the tool on an angle grinder, follow these steps.

1. De-energize the device by unplugging the plug from the socket.
2. Lock the angle grinder spindle using the button located on the front of the body. When you press the button, the stopper enters the hole of the disk installed in the gearbox, which fixes the spindle in a stationary position.
   
   
3. Insert the key pins into the holes on the clamping flange.
   
   
4. While holding the latch with one hand, turn the wrench to the left (counterclockwise) with the other hand until the nut comes off. Then it can be unscrewed without a key and removed from the shaft.
   
   
   In this case, the angle grinder spindle rotates clockwise. But in which direction should you unscrew the nut if your device’s shaft rotates counterclockwise? Remember: the pressure flange should always be unscrewed in the direction directly opposite to the rotation of the shaft.
5. Now you can change the tool by first removing the old one.
   
   
   If you notice that dirt has accumulated inside the casing, you should remove the bottom flange and use a steel brush to remove dirt from all surfaces.

   

6. Next, you should install the bottom flange in place. You need to install it correctly, making sure to align the grooves on the spindle and flange.
7. Place on top of the bottom flange gasket It is not necessary to install it, but it is advisable, since it will ensure easy unscrewing of the clamping nut in the future if you need to change the tool.
   
   
8. Install new tool. Sometimes owners of angle grinders wonder: which side should the circle be placed on? The answer is simple: the disc is placed with the side with the markings on the outside.
9. Place a pad on the abrasive wheel. If your grinder did not come with gaskets, you can purchase them at a specialized store, or on your own cut from thin tin or cardboard.
   
   

   

10. Screw the flange onto the shaft by hand. Tighten the nut until you can no longer turn it without a wrench. After this, holding the stopper, tighten this nut with a wrench, but no more than a quarter turn, otherwise the disk will begin to deform.
    
    

After carrying out the above steps, the replacement of the tool is considered completed.

Unwinding methods if the disk is jammed

What to do if the clamping flange is jammed? This trouble, when the nut is bitten, often occurs if, while working with thick and durable materials the tool is jammed in the workpiece. In this case, the abrasive wheel often breaks, and the spindle, which continues to rotate, tightly tightens the pressure flange. To unscrew the grinder if the disk is jammed, there are several ways.

Using a gas key

This method is considered not entirely safe, since the stopper can be broken, although in most cases it is possible to unscrew the nut. To avoid breaking the spindle lock, do not apply much force to the gas wrench. The design of the lock is designed to withstand the force applied by a standard wrench.

You can unscrew an excessively tightened flange using 2 gas keys. To do this, break off the protruding ends of the abrasive wheel with pliers so that you can reach the lower flange with the first gas wrench. Next, clamp both flanges with wrenches and turn them in opposite directions(taking into account which thread on the spindle is right or left).

Disassembling the gearbox

If the lock is broken, in order to remove the tool from the angle grinder, you will have to disassemble the gearbox. Use pliers to break off the edges of the remaining abrasive wheel so you can get to the bolts holding the gearbox cover in place. After this, unscrew the fasteners and open the gearbox. The cover will be removed along with the gear shaft. Next, this shaft should be clamped in a vice, having previously placed aluminum spacers between the steel jaws, and using a gas wrench, unscrew the flange (do not forget to determine the direction of unscrewing).

Nut heating

The nut can be heated using a gas burner, a hair dryer or a blowtorch. The heated flange can usually be unscrewed with a standard grinder wrench.

Grinding a jammed circle

If after using the first 3 methods the nut does not unscrew, then the remaining abrasive wheel between the flanges can be ground off. To do this, do the following.

1. Use pliers to remove as much of the remaining circle around the edges of the nut as possible.
2. Clamp a piece of sheet iron in a vice as thick as the disk itself, turn on the grinder and grind off the remaining circle on the end of the sheet iron.

Instead of iron, you can clamp a piece of an abrasive wheel in a vice. In this case, grinding off the remaining tool between the flanges will happen faster, and the nut can be unscrewed by hand.

But the use of a stationary abrasive wheel requires great care, because when grinding off the remains of the tool, the geometry of the flange can be damaged. If this happens, you will have to trim the nut.

Using Penetrating Lubricant

Water the flange-shaft connection generously WD-40 liquid. It tends to penetrate into inter-threaded spaces and small cracks. After applying the liquid, wait about 5 minutes and try to unscrew the fasteners with a standard key.

Using a hammer drill

Some owners of grinders, in a situation where the clamping nut is jammed, install an attachment in the hammer drill “ chisel" or "jackhammer”, insert it into the flange hole at an angle and turn on the jackhammer mode without rotation. Accordingly, the stop button must be pressed. Just a couple of gentle presses with a hammer drill are enough (so as not to break the shaft lock), and the nut will begin to turn.

Cut the pressure flange with a hacksaw

This method can be called radical, since you will have to buy new fasteners, and it is used if the nut cannot be unscrewed by any other methods. To cut the flange, hold down the stopper button to prevent the shaft from rotating and, using hacksaw for metal, cut the fastening nut.

In this case, you can try to unscrew the nut using a gas wrench as an assistant. You can also resort to heating and further unscrewing. But look, in the first case, you need to do everything carefully with the gas wrench, not too much, since such efforts can contribute to the breakage of the latch. And in the second case, the heating should also not be too strong so that it cannot affect the plastic parts.

Well, yes, so much suffering because of some jammed nut. A beard and a hammer are always at hand. He inserted it into the key hole and gave it a sharp squeeze. Since ancient times, the technique has worked and does not fail. Well, if your hands grow from there, then you can cope with any pieces of hardware at hand.

You heat this nut with a torch, and unscrew it, everything is simple and easy and you don’t spoil anything.

A jammed nut on an angle grinder (angle grinder) This is a fairly common problem that everyone solves in their own way, but the fact that this annoying (albeit natural!) misunderstanding takes a lot of time and effort is for sure.

First, determine the direction of rotation of the disk, because the nut will need to be unscrewed exactly in the same direction. If we looked on the Internet, it means that using a stationary wrench, we couldn’t unscrew the nut; it was either broken or bent.

There are some ways to unscrew a jammed nut on an angle grinder.

• Method 1. Gas wrench with good jaws, the flange nut on the angle grinder is quite narrow, and a fairly good grip is required. Often it is possible to unscrew the nut in this way, but you should not use much effort; you can break the locking button (if it is still intact!), its design is designed to apply the force possible when using only a stationary wrench.
• Method 2. If the locking button on the angle grinder is already broken then you will have to remove the gearbox cover; there are three or four bolts under the disk. The disc usually breaks off down to the nuts. The cover is unscrewed, the gear is removed from the gearbox and clamped between aluminum jaws into the planks and the nut is unscrewed using the methods indicated here.
• Method 3. The drill is clamped into the hammer drill, only the chiselling mode is set (without rotation), and force is applied to unscrew the nut (into the edge of the nut or into the hole for the key pin).
• Method 4. The nut is heated with a hot air gun (gas burner, blowtorch) and unscrews much easier, using the same stationary key or a gas key.
• Method 5. If the disk is broken, you need to remove its remains with pliers up to the very radius of the nuts (or break the whole disk if you don’t mind) Clamp it in a yew sheet iron thickness equal to the thickness of the disk or slightly less. Turn on the grinder and literally grind the disc against the edge of the iron clamped in the yew. When the remains of the abrasive disk between the washers are ground down with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the clamped planes, the nut will also unscrew by hand.
• Method 6. This method is the same as 5 only instead of a piece of metal, in The yew is clamped with the same abrasive disc The process is faster, but you have to be careful not to spoil the geometry of the nuts on the fixed disk clamped in a yew. Otherwise, you will have to trim the planes later.

Well, now let’s try to protect ourselves in the future from unnecessary movements to unscrew the jammed nut and possible damage to the tool.

• I advise you to use almost no force on the stationary wrench when tightening the disk nut. during rotation, the nut tightens itself, as much as necessary to hold the disk.
• After the nut is unscrewed, you can weld a regular nut onto the flange with carob edges wrench(which one to choose depends on the diameter of the shaft thread)



• Do not neglect installing cardboard spacers under the grinder nut, this reduces jamming.
• After the cardboard spacers supplied with the angle grinder run out, you can cut out gaskets from thin nylon (old plastic canisters) In case of jamming, you can simply melt it with a regular torch or blowtorch and the nut will unscrew by hand.
• And finally, one more basic piece of advice, I thought I knew it all, but as it turns out, I don’t. All discs have paper pasted on one side with the characteristics of the abrasive fraction and purpose. On the same side (paper side) the inner disc washer has a wide ring. So here it is Place the abrasive disc with this paper side facing the gearbox. A wide washer on this side prevents biting, and when unscrewed by the disk it will slide along the stationary (inner flange) making it easier to unscrew the nut.



As the manufacturer does it (photo) - You can try to unscrew the nut in several ways. As a rule, there is a spline on the gearbox shaft for a simple key - do not neglect it, otherwise it is easy to break the stopper. Holding it by the shaft (the wrench should be a little thinner than the standard one), try to unscrew the nut with a gas wrench. If it doesn’t work, don’t despair, you can try to warm up the nut, but you should take into account that there are nearby plastic parts

- warming up requires caution. The most effective and most- this is a sharp blow on the nut in the direction of unscrewing. Holding it by the shaft, insert a thread (for example, a dull chisel) into the key hole and with a sharp blow, tear the nut out of place. Then it's easier.

For the future, place the disc on cardboard spacers, then the wedge will become a rare guest.

Most repair specialists and construction work Today we are well familiar with an angle grinder or, as it is popularly called, an angle grinder. It is used to process a variety of materials, including stone, reinforced concrete, concrete, marble and many others. At first, beginners may have a number of questions, among which the most common are: how to properly install the disc on the grinder, how to secure the disc on the grinder, which side to put the disc on the grinder and in which direction the disc on the grinder should spin. Let us now try to briefly answer all these questions.

What is required to install the disk?

Installing a disc on an angle grinder is usually quite simple process, in which several rules must be followed. In order to do this, you need to equip yourself with the appropriate tool - a wrench, which will be necessary to unscrew the nut. The next step after unwinding it will be replacing the grinder disk or its initial installation. If something happens that jams the disk in the grinder, to remove it you will have to crumble it and remove the remains from the gap between the support flange and the nut using a flat screwdriver or chisel.

Which side should you put the disc on the grinder?

Which side to place the cutting disc on may depend on several factors. Firstly, if the disk is not flat, then there is only one way to place it and the question disappears by itself. Secondly, if the circle is still flat, you can focus on the label - if the angle grinder rotates away from itself, then it is installed with the label inward, if towards itself, then, accordingly, outward. If this principle is not followed, then you can expect undesirable results - breakage of the disk during the sawing process or simply its rapid wear.

As for which direction the disc on the angle grinder rotates, this is primarily a safety issue. It is believed that it is necessary to cut concrete in the direction of rotation of the disk or towards itself. In an ideal position, sparks should fly to the side to the left of the person working with the tool. If this cannot be done, then you can use another position when the sheaf of sparks is directed downwards. In any case, a situation should not be allowed where sparks fly from the user, since in the event of a sudden jamming of the disk, the angle grinder will be directed towards him.

In other words, cutting materials against the direction of rotation of the disk or away from yourself is extremely unsafe, since in the case of a wedge, there is a sharp ejection of the angle grinder in the direction of the person working. By the way, if additional questions arise regarding how to install a disk on an angle grinder, you can also watch training videos, of which there are more than enough on the Internet today.

If you have any questions or need advice on changing and installing disks, just leave a request on the website or call the specified contact phone number, and our specialists will tell you how to proceed correctly. The entire range of our diamond blade products is presented in the diamond blades section.