Table for miter saw- this is a device that serves as the basis for installing this type of saw, facilitating the execution of work on face machining various types materials both in a strictly vertical plane and at the required angle.

The work table for installing a miter saw is a solid base on which this cutting tool, the miter saw, is mounted. This design can be made of metal profiles of various sections and different metals, as well as durable types of plastic. Additional elements (side extensions, guide shelves and stops) can be made from lumber (board, plywood, chipboard or OSB board).

The dimensions of the table depend on the geometric dimensions of the material being cut (lumber, metallic profile, tubes or fittings). The design can be permanent or sliding, allowing you to change the surface area of ​​the table, which also depends on the material being processed and the conditions of the work.

The table, depending on the nature of the work performed, can be made stationary or portable installation, with legs or providing for installation on a flat horizontal surface located above the floor level.

DIY miter saw table

Support table, on which you can perform trimming various materials by installing a miter saw, can be purchased at construction tool stores that stock a wide range of similar products. But sometimes there are cases when it is not possible to buy what exactly is needed for the process of completing the work, then the question arises, how to make it yourself.

Initially, you need to answer several questions on which the parameters of the product being constructed and the material that will be used depend:

1. Where will it be installed?
2. How will it be secured to the floor or other surface?
3. What material and what geometric dimensions are to be processed.
4. What type, mounting method and geometric dimensions of the miter saw that will be installed on the table being manufactured.

Preparatory stage

During this period, you should answer the questions described above for yourself, and then draw a sketch of the product being constructed.

Carrying out table manufacturing work

The frame can be made from metal profiles of various sections available. The geometric dimensions of the frame depend on the available area where the equipment will be mounted, the size of the miter saw and the type of installation (stationary or portable).

On the frame, it is necessary to provide a location for installing the saw, which must correspond to the existing one (geometric dimensions, the height of the lower mark of a possible cut, the possibility of changing the spatial arrangement).

Regardless of the size and shape of the frame, it is necessary to provide side extensions of the table, which can be made of durable plastic, sheet metal or plywood. The presence of side extensions of the working surface will make it easier to saw long workpieces. If the side extensions are located below the surface level of the miter saw, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of special shelves along which the workpieces will move.

Side stops will also be useful, thanks to which, after fixing them, you can trim a large number of workpieces according to established size. You can use corners from different types metal, equipped with clamping elements, by means of which the stops are fixed on the working surface, as well as other elements (bobs, bars, etc.) made of wood or plastic, which can be fixed on the working surface of the table.

To make it easier to work with big amount blanks, it is necessary to make pressure plates. For this you can use sheet metal or a metal profile, which must be equipped with devices that allow them to be firmly fixed to the desktop. This can be a bolted or other connection, with one of the plates placed under the surface of the table (lateral expansion), and the second above the surface of the workpieces. Compression is accomplished by tightening a bolted or screwed connection using nuts or shanks.

1. Installation of a miter saw.
   When the work on making the frame and additional elements completed, it is necessary to install the frame on the prepared surface and firmly fix it there. After this, install the miter saw and manufactured additional elements.
2. Functionality check.
   After completing the installation of the saw and other elements that facilitate work on this type cutting tool, you need to check its functionality.

If to check the saw it is enough to simply turn it on electrical network, then to check the ease of performing work on the manufactured table, it is necessary to perform certain work, trimming the prepared workpieces. In this case, you need to check that:

• The geometric dimensions of the table allow you to perform all types of operations that are supposed to be performed on this equipment;
• The table and miter saw are rigidly fixed to the surface of the floor or other plane;
• The size of the extensions corresponds to the size of the workpieces, they are easy to move and fix;
• The placement of stops and pressure plates is not hampered by any unevenness on the working surface of the table and frame elements.

The support table for a miter saw is a structural element that allows you to work with high labor productivity, ensuring the safe execution of processing operations various types materials.

Equip either machine with these simple extensions to support long workpieces, complete with movable stops.

PROJECT OVERVIEW

The base and side extensions can be easily adjusted to fit any miter saw or slotting machine. If you have both of these machines, you can make one pair of extensions to use with each machine.

An ideal solution for saving space in small workshops, the base and extensions snap onto the workbench quickly and are easily stowed away when there is no work to be done on them.

One movable stop for each machine can be installed on the left or right. The distance from the stop to the center of the machine can be changed in the range from 915 to 1525 mm.

1. Manufacturing of the platform base

Measure the width and depth of the base of your miter saw or slotter. If the machine table protrudes beyond the dimensions of the bed, measure the width of the table. Add 38mm to the depth and 178mm to the width to determine the width and length of platform base A as shown in the illustration. Then cut the bottom piece from 19mm MDF, plywood or plastic-coated chipboard to these dimensions.

Measure the height of the machine table and reduce this dimension by 19 mm to determine the width of the posts B. Cut two posts of this width and length equal to the width of the base A. Press the posts to the base with clamps, drill and countersink pilot holes through the base, then fasten the parts with screws. To use one pair of extensions for both machines, measure the height of each table. Reduce largest size by 19 mm and cut out posts of this width for both platform bases.

2. How to make side extensions

Cut out the two lower parts C from 19 mm material according to the dimensions indicated in the figure. (If necessary, you can change the length of the extensions depending on your needs and space available.) To hang the extensions on the wall (when not in use), drill a 25mm hole in both pieces. Then cut six D posts, 152mm long and the same width as the B platform posts. Additionally, cut two F clamping plates of the same dimensions and set them aside. (These will be attached to the extensions in step 4.) Now clamp the posts to the bottom pieces with clamps, centering the middle posts, drill pilot holes, and install screws.

3. Add top shelves

Place the platform base on the workbench and place your machine on top, aligning it in the center. Place one of the extensions close to the platform, as shown in the picture. Measure the distance from the outside of the far post D to the edge of the machine table. You-

saw the two upper shelves E to the same length and width of 152 mm. To use extensions with both machines, measure the distance from the far counter to the edge of the table for each and cut the shelves to the smaller size.

Now, using a saw with a 19mm thick mortise blade, cut a 10mm deep tongue in the center of each shelf. Press the shelves onto the C/D extensions with clamps, drill holes, countersink them and secure the shelves to the stands with screws.

4. Install the clamping plates

Place the C/D/E extensions flush against the A/B platform base, aligned at the front. Take the previously sawed clamping plates F and place them on inside platform B pillars, aligned with the leading edge as shown in the figure. Now squeeze pairs of adjacent posts B, D and clamping plates with clamps, drill holes through the upper shelves E, countersink them and secure the plates with screws.

5. Level and secure the machines

Using clamps, secure the extensions to the platform base. Reinstall the machine and level it to the middle of the width of the base. Holding a long, level bar against the standard machine stop, adjust the position of the machine to align the rear edge of the bar with the rear edges of the upper shelves E.

Make sure the edges of the planks and shelves are parallel. Now remove the strip and extensions. Mark the centers of the mounting holes for attaching the machine, remove the machine and drill holes in the platform base L. Countersink them from below and secure the machine with countersunk screws, adding washers and nuts.

To position the tables of both machines at the same height, cut two wooden spacers, the width of which allows you to make mounting holes for the screws that will secure the machine with the lower table. Sharpen the spacers to a thickness that is equal to the difference in height of the two tables. Now, installing the machine with a low table, make holes. Secure the machine with screws, inserting spacers between it and the base.

6. Make movable stops

Determine the width of the miter saw fence G by measuring the distance from the front edge of one of the extensions to the front of the fence on the machine table. The width of the movable stop H for a slotting machine is determined by the distance from the front edge of the extension to the center of the bit. Measure the distance from the center of the table to the inside of the D-post closest to the platform base to determine the length of the sliding stops. Having found out the dimensions, cut out the fly from 19 mm material.

Then using sawing machine with a grooved disk, select tongues 3 mm deep on both sides of each part at a distance of 60 mm from the front edge and make dust-proof folds with a section of 3 × 3 mm at the top and bottom along each end. Now cut and sharpen two guide rails I measuring 11x19x305 mm from hardwood.

Measure the distance from the protruding end of the top shelf E to the inside of the post D, closest to the platform base, and file the guide rails to that length. Glue them into the tongues of the movable stops, aligning the ends with the shoulders of the dustproof folds, as shown in the figure. Note. A la a slotting machine with front clamping of workpieces, you may need to make a cutout on the sliding stop that allows you to move the stop to the center of the table.

7. How to use extensions

First, secure the platform base along with the machine to the workbench with clamps. Then install the extensions on both sides, aligning them with the front edge of the platform and inserting the platform posts B between the extension posts D and the clamping plates F. Secure the extensions to the platform using clamps. If the mobile stop needs to be installed at a greater distance from the machine, secure both extensions with clamps, placing them on one side of the platform, as shown in the photo. (In this example, the distance from the disc to the stop was 1620 mm.)

To work with stops, simply insert guide rail I into the tongue of shelf E, move the stop to the desired position and secure its position with a clamp. If the fence needs to be installed at the maximum distance from the machine, extend its end, which does not have a guide rail, beyond the end of the extension. To change the fence from the right side to the left, simply turn it over.

Below are other entries on the topic “How to do it yourself - for a homeowner!”

Platform table for miter saw

Project overview

• Overall dimensions, mm: width - 1222 (3073 with extensions fully extended); depth - 508; height - 165.
• Weight about 26 kg.
• Necessary materials: one sheet of plywood 19 x 1220 x 2440 mm; one maple board 19x140x2440 mm; four galvanized pipes 3/4 inch 1085 mm each.
• Quick assembly using screws and glue.

First make the panels for the platform

1. Cut out the top and bottom panels according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials” A. Mark the centers of the four counterbore holes for the flange nuts on the underside of the top panel (Fig. 1 And 2). Counterbore and drill holes, then insert M6 flange nuts.

Using a combination square, measure the height of the miter saw table while standing on a level surface.

2. To determine the width of the side handle supports B, measure the height of the miter saw table (photo A). In our case this size

equal to 90 mm. Then cut out the handle supports to the specified length and give them width in accordance with the measurements.

3. To make 25 x 190 mm slots in the handle supports, mark the centers of the 25 mm holes (Fig. 1). Use a Forstner drill to make holes, placing scraps underneath to prevent chipping. Finish the slots by sawing away the excess material between the holes with a jigsaw. Then rout 6mm fillets around the edges of the slots on both sides.

4. Glue the side handle supports IN to the top side of the top panel A (Fig. 2). Drill holes and screw in screws.

With the calling cards folded around both ends of the pipe, press the middle guide rail C and screw it to panel A.

5. Cut out the pipe guides WITH. Glue two of them to the top side of the bottom panel A. aligned to the edges (Fig. 1), secure with clamps, drill mounting holes and screw in screws. To attach the middle and inner rails, prepare 1085 mm lengths of 3/4-inch pipe (for extensions). Using thin cardboard tubes and spacers (business cards will work), position and install the middle rails (photo B) and do the same to mount the internal guides. The spacers will provide the clearance necessary for the pipes to slide freely between the guides.

6. Apply glue to the top side of the pipe guides WITH and press the top panel with clamps A/B to the bottom A/C. aligning their edges.

Add extension supports

1. For extension supports D cut four blanks measuring 152 x 508 mm. To determine their final width, place a miter saw on the top panel A. Put long rule from a straight board to a saw table and support handles IN. so that its ends extend beyond the edges of the platform. Measure the distance from the rule to the underside of the bottom panel. File the support blanks D to this width and save the trimmings.

2. For marking on extension supports D the centers of the holes into which the ends of the pipes are inserted (Fig. 1), mark on one end of the bottom panel A centers of openings between pipe guides WITH. Draw center lines for the outer opening at the front and for the inner opening at the back.

Align the ends of the support D with the bottom panel A and transfer the center marks of the openings for the pipes.

Rotate the support 90°. Mark on its end the position of the underside of the top panel A.

Now, pressing the expansion support D edge to the bottom panel, extend the indicated center lines of the openings (photo C). Turn the support over to press it against both panels and the rule, and mark the position of the bottom of the top panel with a line on it. (photo D). This line defines the top edge of the pipe holes so that the top of the supports is flush with the surface of the miter saw table. Using a square, mark the crosshairs by drawing lines from the marks made on the support. Transfer these marks and draw lines on the remaining extension supports.

Align the Forstner drill with the marking lines on support D. Drill 25mm holes in the outer supports and 28mm holes in the inner supports.

3. In the two outer supports of the extensions D use a Forstner drill to mark a hole with a diameter of 25 mm (photo E). Mark these parts as external. Insert a 28mm drill bit into the chuck and adjust the stop so that the cutting edge of the drill is aligned with the top of the holes. Make holes in the two remaining supports. ( Large holes will allow the extension supports to slide easily along the pipes.) Please note: the distance between the centers of the holes must be the same on all supports. When installing supports on pipes on both sides of the platform (Fig. 1) You will need to turn the ends of one pair of supports.

By drilling mounting holes through the edges of the two outer supports D and through steel pipes, screw in the screws.

4. Mill 6mm fillets on the edges of the inner support holes D (Fig. 1). Check how the pipes are inserted into the holes of the external supports. Using a round file or sanding attachment For an electric drill, widen the holes if you want the ends of the pipes to fit tightly into them. To maintain the correct position of the supports, do not touch the file or sandpaper the top edge of the holes. Insert the pipes, align their ends flush with outside external supports, drill mounting holes to fix the pipes and screw in the screws (Fig. 2, photoF).

5. Cut out the folding stops E and drill 8mm holes in them (Fig. 1).

6. For attaching the folding stops to the external supports of the extensions D mark the center on the inside of each stop (Fig. 2). Pay attention to the different positions of the holes in the right and left stops - they should be located at the front side of the platform table. After making the counterbores and drilling the holes, insert M6 flange nuts into them.

Completion

1. Cut out the stop strips F for installing the structure on sawhorses. Glue them underneath along the edges of the bottom panel A. leaving between them a distance corresponding to the thickness of the top bar of the saw saw (Fig. 1).

2. Sand all parts with 180 grit sandpaper and soften everything sharp corners and ribs. Remove sanding dust. If desired, apply a clear weatherproof coating. (We used two coats of oil varnish.)

3. Secure the folding stops E on external supports of extensions D screws M6 x 38 with handwheel, adding washers (Fig. 1). Using a marker with indelible ink, place a mark on top of each pipe, 75 mm from the end, indicating the maximum distance for extending the extensions. Now put on the inner supports D on pipes (Fig. 1). Insert the pipes into the corresponding openings of the platform and secure them with the same handwheel screws, not forgetting to add washers.

4. Finally, place the platform table on the sawhorses and place the miter saw in the middle. Drill mounting holes and secure the machine using suitable hardware. Start new projects, because now you can conveniently and safely cut boards.

You might be interested in:

Table for circular saw with your own hands

A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Its cutting base is a flat metal disc with a serrated outer edge. When choosing such a tool, everyone decides for themselves what type they need: tabletop, manual, stationary. Many people prefer manual option. However, in some situations it is necessary to secure the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity to secure the tool if necessary.

Preparation of tools and materials

Having decided to make a table for a hand-held circular saw yourself, you need to make sure that you have all the materials necessary for the work:

• laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
• 16 mm laminated chipboard or other sheet material suitable for making the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
• bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on installation method);
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts.

Any hand-held circular saw will work for this table. It must be remembered that when attached to a table, the cutting depth decreases by 10-20 mm. So saws with small blades are not suitable for such a table.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw

1. Manufacturing of the body. Sheet material for the case it is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws and bars. It is better to carry out the assembly by first drilling out the external parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom or lid. Upper part the bars are subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.

2. Preparing and securing the plywood top. Hole slot. First, a piece 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measurements are taken of the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the table top. Markings are made on the back side of the plywood. 2 central axles will be required. Without them, it is impossible to make accurate markings. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they take the measurements that the circular has: the diameter of the lower protective casing, its thickness, the maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, place marks and cut out a rectangular hole using a jigsaw.

3. Attaching the saw to the plywood table top. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter - 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that the working part fits into the cut hole. When the saw is level, you need to mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, you will need plowshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8) for fastening. To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality recess of the cap; it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm when not tightened.

The plywood is drilled from the outside, the diameter of the resulting holes should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made for the head. When the holes are ready, sawing table for a circular saw, install the saw itself, tighten the bolts from the inside using nuts with plastic locks or spring washers.

4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made in the corners at a distance of 30 mm plywood countertop. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using an M8 18 mm steel fitting. The usual “Start-start” button is installed on the side. An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the instrument itself is pressed.

5. Manufacturing of a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a stop beam. Drawings contain everything required sizes. The beam can be made from plywood and secured using furniture guides full extension. The resulting beam should slide above the surface at an angle to the cutting plane with a slight gap.

6. Stop for longitudinal cuts. It is made from aluminum cornice. 150 mm from the edges, first drill holes for the bolts, and then draw 2 lines from the place where the bolts are attached to the center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts, 12 mm holes are made at a distance of 30 mm. The bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines they make slits in the tonic; their width can be seen in the photo.

Information on how to make a table for a circular saw can be seen in the video. This will help you quickly and easily improve the equipment of your workshop.

Video of making a circular table with your own hands

Nice thermal panel theme! Quickly warm and reliable! There are also thermal panels made of ceramic concrete that made the office simply cool.

I built a house from aerated concrete and am going to cover the outside with thermal panels. Who has already installed them? How are the results? Or maybe it’s easier and cheaper to do wet facade, although he doesn't.

thanks for detailed instructions! I have it lying around at my dacha washing machine old It will be necessary to use the motor from it to create an emery machine. Unity

Interesting design solution, I'll take note! The only thing I didn’t like from what I saw in the photo was that such tiles are used as a backsplash in the kitchen. Very good

This style reminded me very much of the film The Great Gatsby, in which the interiors of houses and apartments in the 1930s were decorated very luxuriously and pompously. Of course, this was a prerogative.

None wood work can't do without sawing. A manual circular saw is not very convenient for my tasks, and I have long had a desire to make a table for a circular saw. Because My workshop is small, so I needed a small table. Last week I finally made it. (“Laziness is the engine of progress” It was necessary to cut for the next wooden product, and I didn’t even want to start without it) It took 4 evenings to make the table with equipment.

The table turned out to be simple, but quite functional.
Table dimensions (W520 x D500 x H230 mm), crosscut sled (W580 x D170 x H 80mm)

emphasis for rip sawing.

For the tabletop, I managed to find a sheet of 9mm laminated plywood on the market. What was very pleasing was that it was sawn off perfectly: all sides were strictly 90 o. I attached a Black&Decker CD601 manual circular saw to the tabletop. (1100 W, 5000 rpm, 170mm). The saw can change the depth and angle of the cut.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular table is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast material may crack.

There is another popular way to attach a circular table to a table without drilling holes in the base - attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method did not seem to me to be correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The base was made from 22mm chipboard panels. I chose the dimensions of the base so that equipment could be attached to the edge of the tabletop.

The disc sawed through to the top side of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular saw itself. It’s convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circular saws, it may turn out that the disk is at an imperceptible angle. And all the cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disk is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the original platform. If the blade is not at a right angle and it is not possible to set the ideal angle of the platform, you can place several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving perfect angle(you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

To make it more convenient to control the start of the saw, I installed a start button (it turned out that this is the most expensive part of my table :)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now be turned on by the start button.

To do this, the saw button on the handle was fixed with a tie in the pressed position.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to saw without equipment, using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

For cross cutting I made these sleds.

This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligning itself with them, can move along saw blade. By pressing the sled against the rail, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 degrees. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

Evgeny Repin on December 16, 2014 05:52 (UTC)

The table is good, to be sure. Simple and reliable. I'll make one for myself. A cross-cut sled is a must. By the way, do you have any idea how you can make miter cuts (45 degrees) on this table? Platband, photo frame, you never know where you need to cut it down. Buying a miter saw is expensive. I tried sawing along a ruler manual circular saw, it seems to work well, but it takes a lot of time to prepare one cut. So, what can you recommend? I will be grateful.

markellov on December, 16, 2014 06:28 (UTC)

The sled is very helpful in cutting slats quickly. What used to be done long and tediously now takes place in a matter of minutes.

If you have a lot of sawing work at 45 degrees, you can make a special slide with a stop at 45.

Anton Sidorov on February 16, 2015 06:32 (UTC)

Thanks for the interesting material!

Following in your footsteps, I’m also making a saw table for CD601)
Can you tell me which start button you chose? otherwise I went to an electrician’s store, which confused me with the current, the power of the saw..

markellov on February 16, 2015 07:13 (UTC)

Glad it was useful!

If the model is written on the button, it is most likely on the back side. I won't be able to watch anymore. I bought by asking the seller about the permissible power. because saw 1.1 kW. One and a half kilowatts is enough.

Anton Sidorov on February 28, 2015 20:08 (UTC)

I bought a push-button post PKE 212-2UZ. And now I don’t understand how to connect.
Each button has 4 contacts.
I found this manual http://ceshka.ru/novosti/kak-podklyuchit-p uskatel
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topi c=33775.25
but here I understand that the magnetic starter is also used for 380V.
As I understand it, I don’t need it because... 220v.

Schematic diagram of PC http://www.kontaktor-m.ru/Catalogue/17/t mp2D-6.gif

Can you sketch out a diagram of how to connect? As I understand it, 1 contact Start must be connected to contact 3 Stop.

Yasha Kundin on February 25, 2016 18:57 (UTC)

He explained everything very well and clearly, thank you very much!
Can I ask how you are going to make sure that the side fence for rip sawing, while moving, always remains parallel to the disk? I'm trying to figure something out and don't understand how to do it.
Please share your wisdom.)))) If you can write on VKontakte, I will be grateful!

markellov on February 25, 2016 20:35 (UTC)

Of course, it would be better to draw this, but now I don’t have the strength.
I'll try in words.
Two furniture rails are attached under the table. A U-shaped structure is attached to them, which will extend to the right. A structure with a side support placed on the table is attached to a U-shaped bar that moves parallel to the disk. Whenever possible, I’ll model it in a 3D editor.

Maria Luchko on July 12, 2016 10:35 (UTC)
4 machines in 1

Circular cutter, edge trimmer, milling cutter, groove cutter
https://youtu.be/p1BSp9wpBgE

Edited at 2016-07-12 10:37 (UTC)

29MileEn on August 1, 2016 10:07 (UTC)

Good afternoon, Vladimir.

I found a site online that uses the material from your wonderful article without any reference to your original post: http://stanokgid.ru/osnastka/stol-dlya-c irkulyarnoi-pily-svoimi-rukami.html. Some corrections are noticeable, but the photographs and overall style are the same.
It seems to me that doing this is petty and lousy, so I decided to report it.
Perhaps you also published this because... there is no date or author indicated. If that's the case, well, then everything is fine.

markellov on August 1, 2016 11:10 (UTC)

No, this is not my article. I've encountered this many times before. Only illustrations are taken from my post. The article also uses illustrations and videos from other authors. I don’t see anything wrong with this if it helps someone make an instrument for themselves. Maybe something was taken from my article, but basically they describe general stages creating a table for a circular table.

My article had a main goal - to help other handicraftsmen make their own tools. If she helps by giving her pictures to another article that serves the same purpose, I will be only too happy. When they publish my materials and give me a link, I am grateful. If they don’t give it, I’m not at a loss.

In any case, thank you for your care and attention!

How to make a homemade one cross-cutting machine(trimming) on ​​wood with your own hands

The design of the trim is similar to circular saw installed above the desktop. Its main advantages: compactness and light weight. Thanks to this, saws are used not only in workshops, but also on construction sites. Unfortunately, homemade tools are quite bulky and heavy. They are convenient to operate in stationary mode.

A miter saw is designed for the sole purpose of cutting the ends of lumber at various angles. Due to the fact that the workpiece is stationary on the table during cutting, the cut is neat and clean. Craftsmen who deal with wood processing prefer this particular tool. Moreover, self-made saws have been successfully used for years.

Trimming from a grinder

grinder miter saw

Technical characteristics of a cross-cutting machine with a broach, assembled by yourself:

• disk revolutions - 4500;
• cutting length - 350 mm (much higher than that of a middle-class factory tool).

The tool can be removed from the table and the grinder can be used for its normal purpose.

1. The rotary device of the tool is installed on the rotation axis car wheel(pin), it is held by a 150 mm ball bearing (if you can find more, it will do).
2. On outer side Bearings are welded to attach the ears to fix them on the base. It is fixed using M6 screws.
3. To protect against chips, the clip is covered with a box.
4. We make the broach from shock absorbers from a truck (broken ones will do). Oil is poured out of them, holes are drilled for ventilation, which should be covered with a mesh to remove dust and chips.
5. To prevent a jerk from being felt when starting work, the saw is supplemented with a soft start module, which slightly reduces the speed.
6. The last stage of work is the manufacture of protection for the disk.

• very noisy;
• To adjust the accuracy of wood cuts, scraps of timber are used, after which the rod is fixed firmly and you can work cleanly.

Trimming from various scrap metals

The cutting frame is made of metal

This is quite a heavy crosscut on a stationary metal table. It will take some effort to control it. But in the end, the saw mechanism moves smoothly, without jerking, and trimming with your own hands is easy.

• electric motor power - 2.2 kW;
• disk revolutions - 2800;
• cutting depth 80 mm.

Materials and tools required for assembly:

• 900 W electric motor;
• a metal sheet;
• metal corner;
• channel;
• hinge group;
• powerful spring;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• file.

The bed is made of adjustable supports, metal corner and posts from an old bed. The working surface is a metal sheet like a table surface, in which we cut a hole, and process the edges with our own hands using a file.

• The pendulum stand for the saw is welded from a channel mounted on a sheet of metal; its height is about 80 cm.
• The stand for the electric motor is made in the form of a movable metal plate mounted on hinges. When installing an electric motor, a spring is used as a stabilizer. Then you can do without a pendulum and belts.
• The tension belts are adjusted with a conventional hinged bolt, and the pendulum for the mechanism is also made of metal.
• As an operating tool, a disk with a diameter of 420 mm is installed on the trimmer.

A miter saw is quite dangerous equipment; when assembling it with your own hands, you need to take care of protective boxes and covers. After all, errors during work homemade equipment significantly more than the factory one.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade trims

• Making your own tools saves money. For example, about 500 rubles were spent on modifying the grinder. Price homemade table and saw mechanism is available to most craftsmen;
• main parameters: cutting depth, rotation speed, disk diameter, engine power, table dimensions, selected to suit your own needs;
• Having assembled the tool with your own hands, the master can easily find the cause of the problem and eliminate it.

• From quality starting materials the service life of the tool depends, and homemade products are usually assembled from all sorts of rubbish;
• trimmings homemade are rarely powerful enough. After all, for quality work equipment requires careful selection of parts;
• sometimes the money saved on purchasing a factory tool is spent on repairing and modifying a homemade one;
• craftsmen often skimp on their safety by not equipping the table and saw with protective devices;
• Factory saws are equipped with a graduated scale that accurately indicates the angle of cutting the wood. It is difficult to build such a mechanism on a home device.

A few more convenient and interesting homemade products, including excellent stationary, mobile and made in a couple of minutes from several plywood and screws.

A table for a miter saw is a device that serves as the basis for installing this type of saw, facilitating the execution of work on cross-cutting of various types of materials both in a strictly vertical plane and at the required angle.

What it is

The work table for installing a miter saw is a solid base on which this cutting tool, the miter saw, is mounted. This design can be made of metal profiles of various sections and different metals, as well as durable types of plastic. Additional elements (side extensions, guide shelves and stops) can be made from lumber (board, plywood, chipboard or OSB board).

The dimensions of the table depend on the geometric dimensions of the material being cut (lumber, metal profile, tubes or fittings). The design can be permanent or sliding, allowing you to change the surface area of ​​the table, which also depends on the material being processed and the conditions of the work.

The table, depending on the nature of the work being performed, can be made stationary or portable, with legs or provided for installation on a flat horizontal surface located above the floor level.

DIY miter saw table

A support table, on which you can trim various materials by installing a miter saw, can be purchased at construction tool stores, which stock a wide range of similar products. But sometimes there are cases when it is not possible to buy what exactly is needed for the process of completing the work, then the question arises, how to make it yourself.

Initially, you need to answer several questions on which the parameters of the product being constructed and the material that will be used depend:

1. Where will it be installed?
2. How will it be secured to the floor or other surface?
3. What material and what geometric dimensions are to be processed.
4. What type, mounting method and geometric dimensions of the miter saw that will be installed on the table being manufactured.

Preparatory stage

During this period, you should answer the questions described above for yourself, and then draw a sketch of the product being constructed.

Prepare construction tools and required materials, and then begin work.

Carrying out table manufacturing work

The frame can be made from metal profiles of various sections available. The geometric dimensions of the frame depend on the available area where the equipment will be mounted, the size of the miter saw and the type of installation (stationary or portable).

On the frame, it is necessary to provide a location for installing the saw, which must correspond to the existing one (geometric dimensions, the height of the lower mark of a possible cut, the possibility of changing the spatial arrangement).

Regardless of the size and shape of the frame, it is necessary to provide side extensions of the table, which can be made of durable plastic, sheet metal or plywood. The presence of side extensions of the working surface will make it easier to saw long workpieces. If the side extensions are located below the surface level of the miter saw, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of special shelves along which the workpieces will move.

Side stops will also be useful, thanks to which, after fixing them, you can trim a large number of workpieces to the specified size. As stops, you can use corners made of different types of metal, equipped with clamping elements, through which the stops are fixed to the working surface, as well as other elements (bobs, bars, etc.) made of wood or plastic, which can be fixed to the working surface of the table .

To make it easier to work with a large number of workpieces, it is necessary to make pressure plates. To do this, you can use sheet metal or a metal profile, which must be equipped with devices that allow them to be firmly fixed to the desktop. This can be a bolted or other connection, with one of the plates placed under the surface of the table (lateral expansion), and the second above the surface of the workpieces. Compression is accomplished by tightening a bolted or screwed connection using nuts or shanks.

1. Installation of a miter saw.
   When the work on manufacturing the frame and additional elements is completed, it is necessary to install the frame on the prepared surface and firmly fix it there. After this, install the miter saw and manufactured additional elements.
2. Functionality check.
   After completing the installation of the saw and other elements that make it easier to work with this type of cutting tool, it is necessary to check its functionality.

If to check a saw it is enough to simply plug it into an electrical network, then to check the ease of performing work on a manufactured table, it is necessary to perform certain work, trimming prepared workpieces. In this case, you need to check that:

• The geometric dimensions of the table allow you to perform all types of operations that are supposed to be performed on this equipment;
• The table and miter saw are rigidly fixed to the surface of the floor or other plane;
• The size of the extensions corresponds to the size of the workpieces, they are easy to move and fix;
• The placement of stops and pressure plates is not hampered by any unevenness on the working surface of the table and frame elements.

The support table for a miter saw is a structural element that allows you to work with high labor productivity, ensuring the safe execution of operations for processing various types of materials.

The post DIY miter saw table first appeared on StroyPomoschnik.

• Overall dimensions, mm: width - 1222 (3073 with extensions fully extended); depth - 508; height - 165.
• Weight about 26 kg.
• Necessary materials: one sheet of plywood 19 x 1220 x 2440 mm; one maple board 19x140x2440 mm; four galvanized pipes 3/4 inch 1085 mm each.
• Quick assembly using screws and glue.

First make the panels for the platform

1. Cut out the top and bottom panels according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials” A. Mark the centers of the four counterbore holes for the flange nuts on the underside of the top panel (Fig. 1 And 2). Counterbore and drill holes, then insert M6 flange nuts.

Using a combination square, measure the height of the miter saw table while standing on a level surface.

2. To determine the width of the side handle supports B, measure the height of the miter saw table (photo A). In our case this size

equal to 90 mm. Then cut out the handle supports to the specified length and give them width in accordance with the measurements.

3. To make 25 x 190 mm slots in the handle supports, mark the centers of the 25 mm holes (Fig. 1). Use a Forstner drill to make holes, placing scraps underneath to prevent chipping. Finish the slots by sawing away the excess material between the holes with a jigsaw. Then rout 6mm fillets around the edges of the slots on both sides.

4. Glue the side handle supports IN to the top side of the top panel A (Fig. 2). Drill holes and screw in screws.

With the calling cards folded around both ends of the pipe, press the middle guide rail C and screw it to panel A.

5. Cut out the pipe guides WITH. Glue two of them to the top side of the bottom panel A, aligned to the edges (Fig. 1), secure with clamps, drill mounting holes and screw in screws. To attach the middle and inner rails, prepare 1085 mm lengths of 3/4-inch pipe (for extensions). Using thin cardboard tubes and spacers (business cards will work), position and install the middle rails (photo B) and do the same to mount the internal guides. The spacers will provide the clearance necessary for the pipes to slide freely between the guides.

6. Apply glue to the top side of the pipe guides WITH and press the top panel with clamps A/B to the bottom A/C, aligning their edges.

Add extension supports

1. For extension supports D cut four blanks measuring 152 x 508 mm. To determine their final width, place a miter saw on the top panel A. Place a long straight board rule on the saw table and support handles IN so that its ends extend beyond the edges of the platform. Measure the distance from the rule to the underside of the bottom panel. File the support blanks D to this width and save the trimmings.

2. For marking on extension supports D the centers of the holes into which the ends of the pipes are inserted (Fig. 1), mark on one end of the bottom panel A centers of openings between pipe guides WITH. Draw center lines for the outer opening at the front and for the inner opening at the back.

Align the ends of the support D with the bottom panel A and transfer the center marks of the openings for the pipes.

Rotate the support 90°. Mark on its end the position of the underside of the top panel A.

Now, pressing the expansion support D edge to the bottom panel, extend the indicated center lines of the openings (photo C). Turn the support over to press it against both panels and the rule, and mark the position of the bottom of the top panel with a line on it. (photo D). This line defines the top edge of the pipe holes so that the top of the supports is flush with the surface of the miter saw table. Using a square, mark the crosshairs by drawing lines from the marks made on the support. Transfer these marks and draw lines on the remaining extension supports.

Align the Forstner drill with the marking lines on support D. Drill 25mm holes in the outer supports and 28mm holes in the inner supports.

3. In the two outer supports of the extensions D use a Forstner drill to mark a hole with a diameter of 25 mm (photo E). Mark these parts as external. Insert a 28mm drill bit into the chuck and adjust the stop so that the cutting edge of the drill is aligned with the top of the holes. Make holes in the two remaining supports. (Larger holes will allow the extension supports to slide easily over the pipes.) Please note: the distance between the centers of the holes should be the same on all supports. When installing supports on pipes on both sides of the platform (Fig. 1) You will need to turn the ends of one pair of supports.

After drilling mounting holes through the edges of the two outer supports D and through the steel pipes, install the screws.

4. Mill 6mm fillets on the edges of the inner support holes D (Fig. 1). Check how the pipes are inserted into the holes of the external supports. Use a round file or sanding attachment for a power drill to widen the holes if you want the ends of the pipes to fit snugly. To maintain the correct position of the supports, do not touch the top edge of the holes with a file or sandpaper. Insert the pipes, align their ends flush with the outside of the external supports, drill mounting holes to secure the pipes and screw in the screws (Fig. 2, photoF).

5. Cut out the folding stops E and drill 8mm holes in them (Fig. 1).

6. For attaching the folding stops to the external supports of the extensions D mark the center on the inside of each stop (Fig. 2). Pay attention to the different positions of the holes in the right and left stops - they should be located at the front side of the platform table. After making the counterbores and drilling the holes, insert M6 flange nuts into them.

Completion

1. Cut out the stop strips F for installing the structure on sawhorses. Glue them underneath along the edges of the bottom panel A, leaving between them a distance corresponding to the thickness of the upper bar of the saw saw (Fig. 1).

2. Sand all parts with 180-grit sandpaper and soften all sharp corners and edges. Remove sanding dust. If desired, apply a clear weatherproof coating. (We used two coats of oil varnish.)

3. Secure the folding stops E on external supports of extensions D screws M6 x 38 with handwheel, adding washers (Fig. 1). Using a marker with indelible ink, place a mark on top of each pipe, 75 mm from the end, indicating the maximum distance for extending the extensions. Now put on the inner supports D on pipes (Fig. 1). Insert the pipes into the corresponding openings of the platform and secure them with the same handwheel screws, not forgetting to add washers.

4. Finally, place the platform table on the sawhorses and place the miter saw in the middle. Drill mounting holes and secure the machine using suitable hardware. Start new projects, because now you can conveniently and safely cut boards.

First, let's figure out what a miter saw is and why it is needed. It is worth noting that, first of all, this is an electric tool designed for working with lumber. Secondly, main feature This tool is able to cut the ends of wooden parts at exactly the right angle.

Of course, such a tool is necessary to have in a carpentry workshop with large volumes of work. How to make such a tool yourself will be discussed in this article.

Preparing materials and tools to create a miter saw table

Once the decision has been made to produce the right tool, you need to prepare everything necessary to complete this work in short time and do not clutter the workshop with materials and tools.

INimportant to remember! How better materials, the more reliable the tool will be, and the better the cut on the wooden workpiece will be.

Drawing up a diagram

Before you start preparing to build a miter saw table with your own hands, you need to decide what functions this tool should perform, and what additional functions may come in handy. Thus, a diagram of the device, its drawings and details are drawn up. And only then are drawings of each part drawn up.

Moreover important see big picture the entire device, and not just a picture of each node.

Product assembly

It is recommended to begin assembling the entire product by studying the drawings and all the parts necessary for assembly. It is also necessary to check the availability metalworking tools, without which it will be impossible to assemble the table. Important take into account the order of assembly of each unit. Descriptions of these nodes are given below.

We begin the manufacture of a table for a miter saw by assembling the base or platform on which the tool itself will be installed directly. The dimensions of this plate largely depend on the dimensions of the miter saw itself. Moreover, if we want to make a universal table so that it is possible to install other compatible tools on it, for example, such as a slotting machine, then the size is taken according to maximum size tool.

It is better to use 19 mm plywood as a material; if this is not available, you can use chipboard or MDF boards suitable sizes, but plywood is more reliable.

1. Installation of side extensions. Quite often, parts are used that are much longer than the saw frame, and to process such parts, removable side extensions are installed. Moreover, you can use them both on the right and on the left of the bed. Extensions are usually made of the same material as the frame itself. That is, 19 mm plywood will be quite enough.
2. Upper shelves: an important detail of the table. In order for the part to be freely attached to the extension, as well as for more comfortable attachment of the extension itself to the frame, it is necessary to make upper shelves. They are attached with screws to both the frame and the extension. Shelves are also usually made from 19mm plywood. Important feature shelf is the presence of a tongue along the entire length of the part, 19 mm wide and 3 mm deep. Its purpose will be explained later.
3. Application of clamping plates. Clamping plates allow the most accurate and reliable alignment of the bed and extensions in width. To do this, it is best to use clamps that will tighten the extensions and the base of the table together. After this fixation, the extensions can be attached to the base of the table.
4. Collaboration of machines. When several machines work together, as mentioned earlier, it is necessary to align their planes. If, for example, you want to use a slotting machine together with a miter saw, then it must be installed so that the working planes of both machines coincide. This means it will be necessary to equalize the heights of both machines. They are the ones that are inserted into the tongues made in the shelves installed on the extensions.
5. Movable stops are also important. Mobile stops are designed for fixing parts using guide rails made of bars hard rocks tree. The quality of trimming of parts also largely depends on the quality of their manufacture.
6. How else can you use extensions? Extensions allow you to fasten parts of a sufficiently long length. In order to use them correctly, you need to reconfigure the table for such a part. Of course, this will take some time, but then it will pay off during production large quantity long-dimensional parts.

So, to summarize: you can make a table for a crosscut plate even in your home workshop. Moreover, the result of manufacturing parts on this table will be much better than on an ordinary workbench.