For a child, and with a solid assembly, you can develop the idea to, for example, an office souvenir.
The basis of the toy is the simplest overhanging circuit (although of course it is better to do it on the board), consisting of a transistor, a diode and a specially wound coil, hidden in the bottom. The "seat" of the swing is a magnet, it is better to choose neodymium, there are a lot of them now, although the usual one will do just fine.
The coil is wound with a double wire with a cross section of approximately 0.25-0.3 each about 1500 turns, i.e. are taken in parallel 2 copper wires and wind to the reel. The diagram shows that the end of the first wire is connected to the beginning of the second. I chose the shape of the coil for logical reasons, it is oval. a magnet passing over it will interact better along the length of the larger diagonal of the ellipse. I didn't use a core, so you can experiment with it. It is better to wind it carefully, loop to loop, but not necessary.
Direct conduction transistor, you can take MP39 ... 42, any diode, an ordinary 1.5 volt battery. For convenience, it is better to make a switch.
I apologize for the handicraft assembly, but I did it in my school years on bare enthusiasm according to the scheme from my father's old notebook with diagrams, so it really is not known where it came from, and I just wanted to see how it works as soon as possible.
It starts simply, turn on the device and push the magnet, after a couple of seconds you will notice how intensely the pendulum begins to oscillate. The system will work better if you can create resonance, i.e. equality of the frequencies of the circuit and the natural frequency of the pendulum, which is calculated by the formula. Here this is achieved by fitting all parameters of the pendulum. It is better to fix the connecting rod on 2 bearings, and not on the 1st like mine.
Some houses have them - a large antique clock in a polished cabinet redwood, with a pendulum and two large shiny weights on chains. There is something mysterious in such a watch - through them, as if time itself speaks to us about the past, about the present, and about the future ...
I dreamed of a clock with a pendulum for a very long time, but somehow I did not inherit it from my second cousins, and in the commission dealers they asked for such money, for which it was possible to buy quite a decent car of the VAZ type.
But once in a store I came across an ordinary wall electronic clock - and with just such a dial that I dreamed of. Without thinking twice, I bought them - they were not expensive at all. I bought it because in my thoughts they instantly appeared - a clock that I had dreamed of for so long and which differed from electronic only in a cabinet with a glazed door and a regularly swinging pendulum. But I'll try to make the cabinet and the pendulum myself!
The watch case turned out from an old bookshelf - I sawed it lengthwise into two unequal parts, and the smaller one, 120 mm wide, became the base of the cabinet. Well, from the boards left after this operation, I cut out blanks for the door, glued them epoxy resin and glazed. By the way, the W-shaped one was quite suitable for fixing the glass plastic profile- this is usually used to install "engines" in cabinets and bookshelves, however, he did a good job of replacing the glazing beads on the door.
The greatest difficulty triggered the play pendulum mechanism... Of course, it would be possible to design a real pendulum that sets the accuracy of an electronic clock, but there was no reason to create such a complex device, and I developed a much simpler electromechanical device that completely imitates the movement of a pendulum.
The pendulum is a rod made of a polished duralumin tube with a diameter of 12 × 1 mm, with a suspension point on the line dividing it in a ratio of 1: 2. The suspension pivot is a steel bracket with two M5 set screws with tapered ends screwed into it. Two cylindrical holes with a diameter of 2 mm are drilled in the pendulum shaft, respectively. In the lower part of the pendulum, a decorative disk and a weight are fixed - the first is made of a CD, and the second is made of a steel strip. If necessary, by decreasing or increasing the load, the oscillation frequency of the pendulum can be changed.
1 — electronic clock; 2 - cabinet body; 3 — electromagnet; 4 — pendulum anchor; 5 — cabinet door; 6 — jumper for fixing switches; 7 — loop; 8 — contact switch petal; 9 — contactor; 10 - pendulum hinge; 11 — shelf for mounting an electronic clock and a pendulum; 12 — pendulum rod; 13 - imitation of an hour weight; 14 — imitation of a pendulum disk; 15 — back wall of the case; 16 - weight of the pendulum
1 — contact petal (foiled textolite s2); 2 - connecting wire; 3 - switch case (D16 sheet 1.5); 4 — washer (polyethylene); 5 - screw for centering the return spring; 6 — returnable spring; 7 - centering rod of the return spring
A - the pendulum begins to move, while the contactor touches the contact lug of the first switch, thereby turning on the power supply circuit of the electromagnet; B — when the armature approaches the electromagnet axis, the contact lobe slides off the contactor — and the electromagnet power circuit is broken; B - after stopping at a dead point, the pendulum begins to move in the opposite direction, while the contactor touches the contact petal of the second switch and turns on the electromagnet power circuit.
The numbers in the diagram indicate:
1 — electromagnet; 2 — pendulum anchor; 3 — contactor; 4 — pendulum rod; 5 — swing axis of the pendulum; 6 — switches
An anchor is fixed at the top of the pinnacle rod - it will require a 4 mm thick mild (annealed) steel strip. To attach it to the rod in the hole drilled in the anchor, a thread M12x0.5 mm is cut.
The "engine" of the pendulum is an electromagnet - it can be made from an output transformer or a choke from an old tube receiver or a broadcast loudspeaker. It is only necessary to sort out its core, consisting of the main W-shaped and closing rectangular plates, while the latter should be removed (they are not needed for the electromagnet), and from the first one fold a new core in the form of a thick letter "Ш". The winding will have to be rewound in accordance with the amount of current that the source can provide - for example, a charger for mobile phone... Practice has shown that when using the source direct current with a voltage of 5 V, a winding of a PE-type wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm is quite suitable when winding it in bulk until the frame is filled. By the way, winding is most conveniently done with hand drill fixed in table vise... The frame itself will have to be fixed on the threaded rod with the help of two pairs of washers and nuts, and the rod in the drill chuck.
Unfortunately, it will not be possible to set the pendulum in motion with only one electromagnet - you will need two switches that turn on the electromagnet only at those moments when the armature of the pendulum moves in its direction.
Each of the switches consists of a contact petal made of one-sided foil-coated PCB. The petal is hinged in a duralumin case and is held upright by a pair of springs.
The electromagnet switching process is shown in the diagram. When the armature moves to the electromagnet, the contactor installed on the pendulum rod touches the conductive side of the contact tab of the first switch, while turning on the power supply to the electromagnet. The latter begins to attract the anchor to itself, but when approaching the center of the electromagnet, the contact petal slides off the contactor, breaking the power circuit, and the pendulum continues to move by inertia. Further on the path of the contactor is the isolated side of the contact petal of the second switch, therefore the contactor will freely deflect it and continue to move until it stops at the dead center, and then swings towards the electromagnet, and halfway through the contactor will touch the conductive side of the contact petal of the second switch, thereby turning on electromagnet. Well, then the process will be repeated as long as the device is connected to a current source.
That, in fact, is all.
Assembling the pendulum mechanism is not difficult. The main thing here is to ensure a minimum gap between the armature and the electromagnet (about 0.5 mm) and adjust the position of the switch contact petals relative to the contactor. To set the pendulum in motion, simply swing it.
A clock will be indistinguishable from a real old pendulum clock if two "weights" are suspended behind the glass doors on chains - the easiest way to make them is from scraps of duralumin pipes, which should be polished to a mirror shine.
In addition, the accuracy of the perception of the watch will be largely influenced by the "thoroughness of the finishing of its case.
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Oddly enough, but even in such a huge repository of information like Runet, you will not soon find serious information on how to do it yourself. Undoubtedly, the simple designs of this device will immediately catch your eye. But here's serious information, an explanation of the principles of its work will have to look. If you typed in a search engine the phrase "how to make a magnetic motor with your own hands" and stumbled upon this article, you may be somewhat lucky. Further - about the features of the operation of this device and an example of it the simplest model.
The power of such an engine directly depends on the magnetic mass - how stronger magnet, the more powerful the engine will be. However, this rule is relative. One example can be given - a giant magnet with a volume of cubic meter... Its weight is from 8 to 12 tons. He himself creates a tremendous force field, so even approaching it is dangerous and. By the way, in real life such a phenomenon is practically impossible. Such a magnet is capable of tying the rails of the train into a knot, which will transport it, crumple the carriage and firmly adhere to it. So what does this example show? On the one hand, the larger the magnetic mass, the better. However, up to a certain limit. Too large a magnet mass is a decrease in the efficiency of the motor and additional problems.
When drawing up a device diagram, there are several points to consider. First, an element that is used as a movable part cannot slip through the magnetic field. The driving force arises from the unevenness of the field - there are no driving forces in a constant field. Devices operating under the influence of the above phenomenon are ineffective. This must be considered if you want a DIY permanent magnet motor. The power of such a device depends on a number of reasons. First of all - from the closure of the magnetic field to the working gap, without a magnetic circuit, the efficiency of the structure will be very low. Due to the fact that the "free inventors" of the engine often do not take these rules into account, they, as a rule, either fail, or their creation does not work satisfactorily. The most important thing in the manufacture of such a device is to correctly determine the driving moment.
And now let's talk directly about how to make a magnetic motor with your own hands. The reader will be presented with its simplest model. You will need a small rare earth magnet that will main detail constructions. The smaller it is, the better. This magnet should have a small hole.
By the way, after this experiment, the magnet will completely lose its properties, so use the one that you will not mind losing. You will also need wire - thick steel and thin copper. Also you will have to pick up a candle the right sizes... Make a base for the pendulum swing from the wire in the form of an inverted U (the base for it should not be wooden). Hang a magnet on it. To do this, you need to thread a thin copper wire into it.
Hang a weaker magnet on the side inside the structure, so that the small one stretches towards it, but so that the angle of deflection of the pendulum is small, not sufficient for the small magnet to touch the large one on the side, but sufficient for the flame of the candle that you put under it, he was not touched when he was upright. Be careful when handling the latter. So, you should place the candle in such a way that it is under the small magnet at the moment when it begins to be attracted to the large one.
Fire demagnetizes it, and at the same time it loses its properties, and due to this, the pendulum occupies a strictly vertical position. When the small magnet cools down, it begins to reach for the large one again. This cycle of pendulum swing will not stop until the candle burns out or is removed.
To make a more "serious" magnetic motor with your own hands, it is worth studying the diagrams, choosing the necessary parts for this. But it is equally important to know what makes such a device work. It's not so difficult to make an engine with your own hands, almost anyone can do it.
Cradle of Newton.
Hello. The other day I decided to make something interesting and informative for my son, my attention focused on Newton's pendulum, or as some call it Newton's cradle (and sometimes even Newton's balls).
He is mechanical system, which was invented by an English actor in 1967, his name was Simon Prebble.
You, of course, saw this pendulum in the physics classroom, the teacher explains to children how different types of energy are transformed into each other, for example, potential energy into kinetic energy and vice versa.
The tools I used:
1) Pliers.
2) Hammer.
3) The beard.
4) File.
5) Soldering iron.
6) Nippers.
7) Tweezers.
Of the materials for making the pendulum, I only needed:
1) Bearing.
2) Rosin.
3) Solder.
4) Copper wire (thin).
5) Thick copper wire (four square millimeter).
6) Threads.
7) Glue.
To begin with, I would like to tell you a little about how I removed the balls from the bearing. It's just that one friend told me how he and a friend pulled them out not entirely safe, one might even say not at all safe method and nearly lost their eyes. He said that he put the bearing on hard surface, hit the clip with a hammer and the balls scattered (two balls were lost). I didn’t risk it and started to take it apart.
First I removed the oil seals.
Then, resting the barb on the separator (where the rivets are), with a slight movement of a hammer, riveted and bent the separator to the other side in several places and dismantled it with pliers.
Then, having grouped all the balls, with pliers, I shifted the inner ring to the outer ring.
With such simple manipulations, I easily managed to pull out the balls without harming myself and others. And more than one ball did not leave my field of vision.
Then I cleaned with a file the place where I will seal the ring.
Thoroughly polished this place with rosin.
Found in the bins a piece of stranded wire of small cross-section. He pulled out one vein with pliers.
And made rings out of it.
I sealed the rings onto the ball. I tried to keep it as even as possible.
As they say, the first ball is lumpy. Overexposed the tip of the soldering iron on the ball, and it darkened (received a thermal burn: wink :).
The rings, so that they were at least a little bit similar to each other, I checked with the ready-made ones. Then he did the same manipulations with the rest of the balls.
As a result, I got seven not quite beautiful (stained with rosin) Cheburashkas, and one of them became a Negroid race.
After processing with felt with goy paste. (Even the African American started to shine.) As I understood during the tests, I should not have placed the balls on a magnet, they were magnetized, and I had to demagnetize them. I did this with the help of a frameless magnetic coil removed from an old TV set that was not working. Information for those who want something to demagnetize these coils is only on old-style TVs with a cathode-ray tube, in other words, almost any frameless coil is suitable. And one more detail, the voltage applied to the coil must be variable.
Then a long and painful threading through the rings.
Having cleared the insulation from a wire with a cross section of four square millimeters, he began to make the frame of the future pendulum.
First, I made a wireframe as in bottom photo, but it was ineffective, turned out to be too low (there was not enough acceleration) and it took part of the energy of the balls (the antennae that held the balls swayed).
And it was decided to make a stronger and slightly higher structure.
I tied the threads, making several turns. This is done so that when adjusting the position of the balls by turning the thread, it does not scroll back under the weight of the balls attached to it. From the beginning, I simply tied the threads to one side of the resulting frame.
Then (while adjusting) I tied it to another beam.
And in the end, I adjusted the balls (by twisting the thread on the beam) so that they lined up in one row as accurately as possible, because it also very much depends on how long it will click. After fine tuning, I applied a small amount of glue on top of the threads tied to the beam, thereby fixing them from scrolling and moving along the beam.
Each of us is familiar with the decoration in Chinese watches, which is made in the form of an "eternal" spinner or pendulum. Building such a miracle is not difficult at all and will take no more than half an hour. Take a look at the diagram below:
When the supply voltage is applied to the circuit with the switch SB1, the transistor VT1 will be closed, since its base will be connected to the emitter through the coil L1. There is no bias, the transistor is closed, there is no current through L2 either. We will bind permanent magnet to the lace and swing our impromptu pendulum in the immediate vicinity of the coils L1, L2 (they are wound on the same frame). When it approaches, an EMF will begin to be induced in the L1 coil, which will open the transistor. The closer the magnet is, the more the transistor opens and the greater the current in the L2 coil, which, by its own magnetic field our magnet starts to attract.
At the moment when the pendulum passes just over the coils, these values are maximum, and as soon as the pendulum begins to move away by inertia, the EMF will change sign and the transistor will close. Thus, the pendulum is attracted only in the first half of the period, in the second it moves by inertia. Just like a real swing that we swing, swinging our legs in the first half swing. The VD1 diode prevents oscillations that can occur at the resonant frequency of the L1, L2 circuit.
Now let's talk about the design of our swing. Coils L1 and L2 are wound simultaneously with a wire with a diameter of 0.08 - 0.1 mm on the frame suitable sizes... For example, on this:
We wind the more, the better, before filling. The more turns, the less voltage the pendulum will require to operate. When connecting the coils, you must observe the phasing - connect the beginning of the first to the end of the second. As a core, a cut of any iron bolt or even the entire bolt if it is short. Before use, this bolt must be burned - heated red-hot on gas and cooled in air.
It is better to take the transistor with the maximum possible transfer ratio. Any low-power germanium (even silicon worked for me) of direct (p-n-p) conductivity will do. If the conductivity of the transistor is reverse (n-p-n), then it does not matter either - it is enough to change the polarity of the power supply connection and the VD1 diode.
Make a pendulum or swing to your taste. It is only important that the magnet located at the base of the pendulum passes a few millimeters from the coil core. The magnet itself is any, the more powerful the better, but you don't have to look for anything special. A piece of "black" is perfect, ferrite magnet from a dynamic head or iron - from an old children's motor.
A finger or any other galvanic cell is used as a power source, which will last for many months of operation of the structure, and the SB1 switch can be safely abandoned, since in the quiet position of our pendulum the transistor is closed and the current consumption by the circuit is minimal. If the magnet is very weak or the swing is too heavy for it, then you can increase the supply voltage to 3 V by connecting two elements in series.