Quick and correct plastering of window slopes. Subtleties of the process of plastering slopes Perform improved plastering of brick window slopes

How to make slopes on plaster windows? This is the question that owners of their homes face when replacing windows. The repair is not considered complete until the slopes are in order.

The article suggests learning how to plaster slopes on windows for reliable protection the entire structure from moisture and cold getting into it. Similar work can be performed by a beginner, if he has a strong desire to do the repairs himself, has certain information, and does all operations carefully and carefully.

Why do we need slopes on windows, their types and features

Slopes are the part of the wall located between its corner and the window.

They are:

• Domestic, making up the inner part of the wall.
• External located on the outside of the building.

The functions of these elements include:

• Giving a finished look to the window opening, which will allow it to become its decoration and emphasize the overall style of the room.
• Hiding mounting elements.
• Improving the thermal insulation of a room by moving the “dew point” beyond the boundaries of the room.

The very first to appear were plaster slopes, which are made by applying one or several layers of plaster, followed by covering the top layer with paint. When installing such slopes, a lot of debris and dust appear, and in terms of the timing of the work, they take quite a long time.

With the advent of new materials and technologies, plaster slopes began to be replaced by:

• Plastic (see Finishing window slopes with plastic - installation steps). The materials for their manufacture are:

1. plastic panel without insulation;
2. The sandwich panel is a two-layer material and already contains insulation. This is the most warm look slopes for windows, which has the longest service life, commensurate with the service life of the metal-plastic structure itself.

• Plasterboard. These are slopes, the material for which is moisture resistant drywall, followed by painting it in any color the customer desires. As a rule, it is chosen white. The space inside the slope, if necessary, is filled with insulation, which can be polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

The advantages of such materials:

• Low price.
• Speed ​​of work completion.
• The presence of a small amount of debris and dust.

Materials and tools for work

Before plastering the slopes on the windows, you should prepare:

• A building level, up to one meter long, but not very short, it will be inconvenient to work with.
• Aluminum rule.
• Roulette.
• Containers for diluting plaster, water and primer.
• Small spatula.
• Master OK.
• Ironing irons large and small.
• Wide spatula – 45 centimeters.
• A sponge grater for applying gypsum compounds.
• Grater and grater, for working with cement mortar.
• Special gun for sealant.
• Sharp construction knife.
• Sprayer or brush for applying primer.
• Corner profiles, window strip.
• A simple pencil.

Tip: To work, you need to make a small goat, on which it will be more convenient to perform all operations. Do not putty from a stepladder or stool, which can be quite dangerous.

The choice of what to plaster the slopes on windows depends on the presence and level of humidity in the room and the placement of the slope - inside or outside the home:

• In rooms with high humidity and for structures located outside, it is better to use cement compounds.
• Work inside the room can be done with lime-gypsum or gypsum mixtures.

In addition to this you will need:

• Polyurethane foam for blowing in cracks in the window block.
• Primer (see Why a primer is needed: technological nuances of finishing work) of deep penetration.
• Headdress.
• Nitrile gloves to protect your hands from the solution.
• Workwear.
• Comfortable shoes.

To properly design a window, it is necessary to properly install all its elements:

• Windowsill.
• Window block.
• Correct tides.
• The slopes themselves.

How to prepare a window for plastering slopes

Before plastering the slopes on the windows, you need to:

• Decide on the type of solution.
• Perform priming work. The use of a primer improves the adhesion of the plaster solution to any slope base. Depending on the material of the side surfaces of the window, which can be very different, the appropriate primer mixture is selected.
• After treatment, the surface must be completely dry.
• Vapor barrier is being carried out. The end elements on the room side are closed vapor barrier film or applied to them silicone sealant. In the absence of this stage, over time the foam will become wet due to condensation, which will disrupt its thermal insulation properties, it may begin to crumble and collapse, this will lead to the window fogging up and a draft will come from it.

Plastering technology window slopes not so complicated, everything can be done with your own hands and then the price will not be high. Today we will tell you how to plaster window slopes in different options. You can also watch the video in this article and photos that will help you do everything quickly and efficiently.

Plastering window slopes is done in several stages. They are all important and nothing should be left out. Buy for work only quality material. It's not worth saving on this. Plastering window slopes video will help in this matter. All work is done in the following order:

Selecting a tool

Here is a list of tools and accessories that you will need for high-quality processing of slopes:

1. Hammer drill (can be replaced with an impact drill)
2. An adapter from SDS+ to ½” and a drill chuck, this is needed for stirring the mixture. It will help to obtain a uniform texture and avoid the formation of excess lumps in the mixture.
3. Hammer
4. Drill bits for hammer drills (the most common diameter is 6 mm, but you can take any others)
5. Plastic dowels (suitable in size)
6. Self-tapping screws for woodworking
7. Screwdriver (preferably Phillips type)
8. Bubble level 2m
9. Aluminum rules of the required length
10. Spatula (most best option 14 – 16)
11. Ironing spatula is - important element, please note that without it, at some stages something may not work out
12. Large capacity container (you can take a bucket)
13. Nozzle – mixer
14. Acrylic-based primer, it is possible to use “betocontact”
15. Roller on a roller with a vessel or a large brush (you can take a wide paint brush)
16. Cotton gloves for skin protection
17. Stencil (template)
18. Square

Weight of a bag of plaster kg

Prepare the surface

The technology for plastering window slopes begins with preparing the base plane. This is important, since the quality of the work as a whole, as well as the durability of the structure, will depend on it, so it may take a lot of time to carry out high-quality preparation, but these costs are completely justified

So:

• It is recommended to install the window sill before you begin plastering work. This will avoid the formation of cracks and gaps between the window and the window sill, the formation of mechanical damage, and will also strengthen the structure.
• Plaster for window slopes can be made from any building mixture. The main thing when kneading is to ensure its uniformity. It is better to use for kneading construction mixer or a drill with an attachment.

Attention: It is best to protect the surface of the window sill from damage, because there is a high probability that a caustic solution will get on it, and, as a result, damage that is unlikely to be corrected, so you need to take care of protection in advance: cover the surface with polyethylene, place sheets of paper, and so on .

• If there are traces on the rim of the window opening old plaster, they need to be removed (see How to remove old plaster from walls without problems), because the new layer must lie on a perfectly smooth surface that does not have any irregularities
• It is preferable to cover the glass surface of the window protective cloth. If you are plastering in one stage, you can simply glue it with pieces of tape. Don't forget to wrap handles and other elements, if any, with paper or tape
• After cleaning the surface, it is recommended to cut off excess pieces of foam with a knife.
• To improve contact of the solution with the surface, level the surface with primer material
• Carry out the steam isolation procedure. WITH inside the foam must be secured with a special film of the appropriate type, or a layer of frost-resistant liquid – sealant – must be applied.

Plastering window slopes dates back to the time when windows in their modern form became familiar to humanity. The technology for this type of work is so elementary that even an untrained beginner can easily handle it. Moreover, there are now many more plastic windows than wooden ones, and plastering slopes on such windows is even easier.

Selection of tools

Each master thinks differently about how to plaster slopes and what tools to use for this.

For indoor work, do not use a level that is too large or small; a meter level is best. Also stock up on sealant and a knife.

Before plastering the slopes on the windows, check whether all the gaps are properly filled with foam; you may need to have the installers correct any deficiencies.

If you decide to plaster the slopes with cement mortar, purchase a grater and a trowel, and for working with Rotband you will need different sizes smoothers, wide spatula and sponge grater.

Preparatory work

High-quality plastering of slopes with your own hands is impossible without following the following preparatory procedures:

1. remove excess polyurethane foam using a knife;
2. clean the surfaces with a brush with metal bristles;
3. remove dirt and construction debris;
4. start priming work (inside a dry room you can use a liquid cement solution or antibacterial substances);
5. around the entire perimeter window frame It is necessary to apply a sealant to the base of the wall, which will increase waterproofing (for such work, substances that contain silicone are used, with its help the windows will not sweat, working with it is simple and comfortable, it is inexpensive and brings a lot of benefits).

What solutions are used for plastering slopes?

It is necessary to plaster the slopes both indoors and outdoors. For work inside the room, you can use a mixture of sand and alabaster in a ratio of 1:2. A solution based on cement and sand is mixed 1:3, and a mixture of cement, alabaster and sand - 1:1:2.

Plastering slopes with your own hands becomes easier to do thanks to the use of the Rotband dry mixture. The cost of such material is certainly not small, but it lays flat and has insulating and antibacterial properties.

To finish slopes outside, you can use only cement mortars: they are not afraid of changes in air temperatures, different humidity and chemicals. The main thing is not to forget to mix into this mixture liquid glass and plasticizer.

The process of plastering slopes

Before you begin installing the beacons, calculate at what angle the surface will be installed. Experienced builders They call this indicator “dawn angle”, and set it using a protractor. Don’t be too confident in your eye; the result of installing the surface “by eye” will not be very pleasant and will require rework.

Now you can start installing beacons. WITH outside you can use a flat wooden plank or a metal profile, and you can’t do without an aluminum corner near the frame. The external beacon, after completion of all work, can be removed, and the internal ones will be covered with plaster mortar.

The outer beacon is fixed to the surface using nails or self-tapping screws, and the inner beacon is placed on alabaster or cement until completely dry.

If you need to cover an area with a thick layer of mortar, give each one time to set. The maximum permissible density for pouring mortar from cement and sand should not exceed 2 cm, for gypsum mortar - 5 cm.

If you decide to plaster newly installed plastic windows and noticed them protective film, do not rush to remove it until the slopes are ready. Such work is usually very dusty, and the film will help protect the frame from damage and dirt.

But, if you do remove the protection, stick masking tape or polyethylene on the window.

Do not rush to apply one layer of mass on the second, give each of them time to dry - this will allow you to protect the walls from cracking.

The density of the outermost tier should cover the beacons. After pouring the mortar, all excess mass can be removed using a spatula or plaster corner. As a result of such actions, you can get a flat and smooth surface.

At the next stage, you can start grouting the slopes sandpaper and making them smooth.

After this you need to draw the corners. To do this, you will need to remove all external beacons and use a grater and a grater. The grater should be leaned against one surface, and the grater should continue to apply the mixture and level the corner. After this, the same work is carried out on the other side.

The next step is painting. For this it is better to buy acrylic paint on water based. If your apartment is dry and warm, the slope does not need to be treated with a primer before painting. But, sometimes (especially in rooms with high humidity), it is still worth covering the surface with an antibacterial primer solution.

Please pay Special attention the fact that plastic can succumb to exposure to the sun and expand. To prevent the frame from cracking and deformation due to this, use this advice: when you finally level the plaster, use a metal spatula to cut a notch 3-5 mm deep, and then fill it with a colored sealant (to match the cladding) based on silicone. Due to its elasticity, silicone will protect the structure from possible deformation.

In conclusion, I would like to say that it is quite possible to plaster slopes yourself, having a certain amount of knowledge. But, if you have never held in your hands Building tools, let experienced and knowledgeable people solve the problem of “how to plaster slopes”.

The approximate cost of plastering slopes is shown in the table.

Design of door slopes is an obligatory part overhaul or finishing a newly built house. Plastering them can be considered a classic design today. This method, although it takes a lot of time, is the most reliable: with this finishing there are no voids left. Although this is not an easy task, if you follow the technology, plastering slopes with your own hands can also be done at a good level. In any case, you can prepare the surface for wallpapering yourself.

How to plaster slopes

What plaster is better for plastering slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - with cement-sand. What is preferable for you is up to you to decide.

Technology

Plastering the slopes begins after the surface of the main walls is leveled. The work ahead is dirty, so it is advisable to have the door leaf, floor and door frame cover with film, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be covered masking tape- it will be easier to clean.

Preparation

The first stage of work is surface preparation. First, poorly adhering plaster, pieces of brick, other building material. If the doors have been replaced, the old plaster may stick out a lot. In this case, even if it holds up well, it gets beaten up.

Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Also cleaned old paint: plaster does not adhere well to it. Afterwards, remove dust and dirt.

If the cracks were not foamed when installing the door, you will need to do this now. Polyurethane foam is applied to the wetted surface in a volume of no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, clean out all the dust, then moisten it with a spray bottle. In a few minutes it will greatly increase in size, filling all the empty spaces. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), the excess is cut off with a knife. It’s more convenient to do this with regular stationery paper.

If plastering is to be done with cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray bottle or using a brush or roller.

Setting up the guides

It is more convenient to plaster slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, using guides. On the outside of the doorway, to obtain a smooth and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Once secured well, it can be used as a guide.

It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45°. It is better to do this, since during work this edge for some reason always lifts up and causes a lot of inconvenience.

You can fix the corner in several ways:

Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution that protrudes through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then take a flat bar (you can use building level or rule), apply it to the corner, checking how evenly the corner is set. They check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.

The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of differences can be checked by running your finger along the joint.

There is another way to attach the corners - with nails or self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but it is not used when plastering: the caps get in the way.

Second guide - doorjamb. When installing the doors, they were aligned straight, so this is a good guide. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, which is then used to level the solution. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: the edge is smooth, glides well, and is quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wooden plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess mortar should be perfectly smooth. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove excess solution.

You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and secured along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.

In this video tutorial on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, and explanations are given regarding the technique of applying putty during finishing.

Do-it-yourself rough plaster of slopes

The process of applying plaster to a slope is no different: a solution is poured onto a dust-free and wet surface. They do this with a wide spatula or a paint bucket - depending on how you are used to it. It’s more convenient to start from the bottom and work your way up.

By running a rule or template along the guides, rocking from side to side, the solution is leveled, and the excess is removed back into the container. For the first penetration, you don’t need to achieve a particularly flat surface, but be sure to monitor the condition of the corners - remove excess mortar regularly.

Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is finishing

Some problems may arise when plastering the upper slope: it is more difficult to apply the solution here. It is taken with a wide trowel (spatula) and, pressing lightly, applied with a slight pull. If the surface is rough, there are usually no problems. They can occur if a concrete beam is installed on top. The solution, especially cement-sand, does not “stick” well to such a surface. In this case, you need to pre-impregnate it with a primer, which serves to improve adhesion (adhesion) to finishing materials.

Treatment may also be required if the surface to which it is applied DSP plaster strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker bricks, for example). Only in this case should the primer further reduce moisture absorption. The second way out is to use special Knauf compounds - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile adhesive to the surface treated with primers, forming notched trowel wave. Tile adhesive admirably “clings” to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as an excellent base.

If all this seems very complicated to you, read the article on how. Everything is extremely simple there. No solutions or spatulas, and the result is excellent. Or you can do it. The look is almost the same, but it’s faster to do. Afterwards you can.

Finishing layer

After some time, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled by applying a second finishing layer. You can’t start leveling too early - the solution “floats” and loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the solution should crumble, but not “float”.

For final leveling, the solution is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is even. If necessary, the solution is re-added into the voids, filling even minor holes.

Grout

This stage creates ideal flat surface. The plaster can only be rubbed after the mortar has set. To do this, at least 16-24 hours must pass (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if you can start grouting, take some mortar from the wall between your fingers and rub it. If it crumbles, you can work; if it smears, we wait again.

The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface. And it is distributed not with a spatula or template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this grater, use a circular motion to distribute the solution over the surface. The plaster becomes smooth and monochromatic. This procedure is optional, especially if everything will then be puttied. But this is how your DIY plastering of slopes takes on a finished look. But we repeat once again - this is not necessary.

This video shows how to plaster door slopes cement-sand plaster. The case is complicated, the explanations are detailed, but in some places the sound is not the best.

Finishing of plastered slopes

If the slope is then painted, the putty will be leveled perfectly. To do this, apply two layers: starting and finishing. Starting putty has a larger grain, it can be laid in a layer of up to 1 cm. With its help, all defects that are difficult to remove with cement mortar are eliminated. After finishing putty Once dry, all irregularities and protrusions are sanded with a special mesh. Afterwards a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and can be applied completely thin layer. With its help you can achieve perfect smoothness.

For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for wallpapering. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.

If, when installing the door, the old slopes were not damaged much and can simply be restored, there will be less work. You just need to pour the solution into the depression and level it with a long trowel (trowel).

Plastering a doorway

Sometimes doors are not placed in the opening, but even in this case the doorway requires finishing. And the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The technology of the plaster itself is similar, but the guides and methods of their installation are different.

Plastering the doorway begins only after both adjacent walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the selection principle is the same).

The guides are installed from the sides. These could be boards metal profiles, two rules, pieces of plastic, fiberboard, etc. One is installed on the right, the second on the left, they are fixed. The most convenient way to secure them is with clamps. If there are no clamps, you can use nails or screws - the remaining holes will then need to be carefully repaired.

The leading edges of the guides will serve as the basis along which the rule or wide spatula will move. The sequence of actions is the same: the first layer is rough, the second is finishing, if it is necessary to bring it to perfect condition, grout is done. For more information on how to putty a doorway, watch the video.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

After installing modern metal-plastic or wooden windows With double-glazed windows, it’s time to take care of their framing - window slopes. Finishing a window opening is necessary not only to give the window a complete and neat appearance. appearance, but also to improve its thermal insulation qualities. The oldest, but to this day, method of finishing window and door slopes that has not lost its popularity is plastering. We will try to figure out how to plaster slopes on windows with our own hands, and find out all the intricacies of this process.

Methods for finishing window slopes

When installing new windows in old buildings, unexpected situations arise. Very often slopes window openings they themselves “strive” to collapse. Under them there are voids or a very large layer of insulation. This usually happens due to inadequate standards during construction work.

Make your own new window or door slopes possible from different finishing materials: MDF, plasterboard, plastic. However, traditional plastering of slopes with mortars has a number of advantages, including:

• high impact strength;
• long service life;
• affordable price.

There are also disadvantages to finishing window slopes with plaster. First of all, this is insufficient thermal insulation and the possibility of cracks.

Plastering slopes in window and door openings is quite a painstaking job, but with some knowledge and minimal ability to handle a spatula it can be done with your own hands.

Tools and materials for plastering slopes

When doing the work with your own hands, you should first decide on the selection of materials and tools with which you can plaster the slopes in window opening. Their list includes:

• plaster mixture;
• putty;
• primer;
• brush;
• polyurethane foam;
• spatulas of two types - wide and narrow;
• Master OK;
• grater and grater;
• short level up to 1 meter long, plumb;
• roulette;
• goniometer;
• containers for solution and water.

To remove the excess layer of old plaster from window slopes, you will need a hammer drill; if you don’t have it, you can use a hammer and chisel.

Suitable as a composition for plastering slopes: cement-sand mortar, so dry gypsum mixture. Plaster mortar gypsum-based will cost you a little more, but it has some important advantages:

• high plasticity, providing convenience when working with slopes;
• possibility of applying a thicker layer.

Preparatory work

Preparation includes several stages: protecting windows or doors, eliminating cracks and treating the surface of slopes.

Structural protection

Before finishing the slopes, you need to take care of the safety of the window sill, as well as the windows or doors themselves. They need to be protected not only from mechanical damage, but also from ingress of solution, which is especially dangerous for wooden structures due to the possibility of swelling, deformation, damage to the veneer or varnish.

1. The surface of the window sill is covered with thick paper.
2. Joints, window or door frames are covered with construction tape.
3. The door leaf can be removed or covered with oilcloth or film.

Do not forget also about the safety of fittings and radiators. It’s easier to wrap them in rags or paper than to wash them for a long time.

Sealing cracks

Wide gaps between the window and the opening are sealed by the installation team, but small gaps may remain. In this case, you can fill them in with your own hands. polyurethane foam. After it hardens, the excess is carefully cut off with a knife so that a small recess up to 2-3 cm deep is obtained, which will subsequently be filled with solution.

Slope surface preparation

This stage consists of the following actions:

1. Remains of old plaster, paint or oil stains are removed from the surface of the window opening.
2. If there are smooth places, notches are made on them.
3. After cleaning, the slopes are primed, which is necessary to increase adhesion - the adhesion of two dissimilar materials. Processing is done with a wide brush.
4. After the composition has dried, you can proceed to the next part of the work.

Installation of beacons

Professional builders perform plastering work along beacons made of wood or metal. If a small layer is required, you can plaster the slopes according to the marks made from the gypsum mixture.

If you are going to plaster the slopes with your own hands, having absolutely no experience in leveling surfaces construction mixtures, then it is better to purchase ready-made beacons for plastering in the store. In extreme cases, you can use strips of plywood.

• By external wall Beacons are fastened along the entire plane using nails or screws. The vertical is set using a plumb line, and the horizon level is set using a level.
• The second beacons must be installed so that they are adjacent to the window frame or door block. They are attached using a mixture with the addition of gypsum, into which the profile is pressed. For this you can also use clean, quickly hardening alabaster.

Alignment

After all preparatory work begins with sketching, and then leveling the prepared mixture or solution onto the plane of the opening. When all the space between the beacons is filled, the entire surface is smoothed with a grater from bottom to top. This way the work is done on all three sides of the window: right, left and top.