Raise the roof of the house to increase the height of the ceilings. How to raise the ceiling in a wooden house without disassembling the roof

Up to the required height, perform new, build a new and roofing pie.

New roof is an expensive and troublesome business. However, there are options in which the complete disassembly of the design will not be required.

Good result at a minimum cost

Increase the height of the rooms under the roof, which is in the design of subcording beams, with the smallest costs in this way.

Delivered residential premises, that is, the floor is completely. Gypsumton or wooden panels are mounted to transverse structural elements, thus the ceiling is formed. The grounds are also decorated.

The obvious advantage of this method is that the supporting structures are not affected: the walls and the roof frame remain in its original form, while the ceiling rises.

Time-consuming but effective way

More complex, but, undoubtedly, more attractive in terms of performance is the rise of the roof with the help of jacks.

• First of all, the base of the roof is strengthened with the help of chalkers.
• Supports are installed, also made from channels. Since the load at the point of the stop will be great, it is necessary that the supporting structure is under the support. When calculating, it is important not to forget about. In order to avoid damage in the house, for racing rafters with better to choose good weather.
• After strengthening, the roof rise begins. The angle is lifted using a hydraulic jack at a height, not exceeding five centimeters - then it goes alternately in a circle.
• Transverse metal beams are fixed on supports with welding. You can use others as lining that meet the requirements for strength, structural elements.
• Metal roof support is the support for the jack.
• Brick masonry should be increased after lifting to the required height.
• The roof is fixed on the walls: Armopoyas is flooded on top of the bearing walls, stacked on which the rafter frame is mounted.
• Works are performed on additional hydro and - it is especially important to perform this item if the ceilings have increased for arrangement.

Important moment: the number of lifting mechanisms

Some builders recommend using several hydraulic jacks with a lifting capacity of five tons each.

Separately, there is a question with their acquisition - it is inappropriate, and lease more than two difficult.

In addition, the theoretical calculations are not taken into account possible errors in the work of the devices themselves.

That is, ideal conditions are unlikely to succeed, but to rely on the coordinated work even two similar mechanisms is not worth it.

The risk of a roof skew or offset to the side is too large: with two reference points there are more chances to lose stability.

Weighted solution

Note that it follows only after a comprehensive and detailed inspection of the status of the rafter system. If some beams rotted, it is impossible to predict how the framework behaves when exposed to it.

It is impossible to achieve an effective effect without a certain risk. However, with competent calculations, the probability of success is very large.

And if the roof is durable, reliable - for example, it will last for a long time, covering the room with high ceilings.

The problem of the roof lifting is often faced in the case when they want to increase the living area of \u200b\u200bthe house by the facilities of an additional attic in the attic area. Sometimes (very rarely) the need for its lift is due to the sedimentation of the walls of the structure and the desire to extend his life at any cost.

Note that before raising the roof of the house, it will be necessary to bring a reliable base under it, capable of withstanding the full load of the entire structure.

Preparatory activities

To improve the foundation of the roof, it will be necessary to prepare a special metal frame, collected from the channels and rigidly fixed on the roof bearing timber.

The list of auxiliary devices and materials used for the root base rise should include the following names in its own composition:

• metal chawller brand 14U;
• special guy stretchs used for the safety retention of the structure during its lifting;
• the so-called support legs playing the role of guides providing strict vertical of the rise (without noticeable displacements to the parties);

Immediately, we note that guy stretch marks can be made from reinforcing rods with a diameter of about 14 mm. To prepare a metal frame, a chapeller brand 14Us are used with welded metal paintings needed to fasten on the base of the roof.

The bottom cut of the base of the channel is fastened with ten-minute meter screws with a length of a total part of at least 10 cm. Longitudinal channels passing through the middle of the structures are attached to the bruse directly, while for fixing the blanks around the perimeter of the base, previously studied eyelets are used. When choosing a channels used to strengthen the base, it is necessary to worry about that the overall weight of the design does not exceed 2 tons.

Installation of supporting devices

Supported legs are necessary in order to rise in roofing designs was made without its displacement to the sides. In addition, they can be used as temporary roof supports until a constant base (escaped walls) is under construction.

The full set of supports includes four legs, each of which must withstand the load of at least 1.5 tons. It is made of such legs of 4 channels with a height of about 3 m. Between themselves, they are connected to each other with the help of horizontal jumpers with a length of about half a meter, sliced \u200b\u200bfrom stamps 8U.

The support structures prepared in this way will be able to withstand a common vertical load of up to 40 tons. In order to avoid damage to the floor overlap, the fastening stops should be placed in zones capable of withstanding limit loads (in the area of \u200b\u200bthe location of the bearing walls or enhanced partitions).

Roof lifting

Upon completion of the preparatory procedures, you can proceed directly to the roof lifting. At the same time, a hydraulic jack, designed for a limiting load of 12 tons, is more conveniently used as a lifting mechanism. Note that sometimes two jacks are used to lift the roof, but this method is not safely safe, because it may lead to the loss of stability of the structure.

In addition to the jack for work, you will need the following consumables and tools:

• hammer and nail);
• fastening screws;
• metal fittings;
• billets of channels used to arrange fixing crossing;
• metal mounting stripes.

For an additional strengthening of the support zones (at the location of the support legs and the jack), it is desirable to prepare special substrates made of several cunning shorts together.

The rise is carried out by sequential movement in the vertical plane of each of the roof corners at a height of no more than 5 cm.

Turning in turn from one corner to another, you need to ensure a uniform lift of the entire structure by about 25 cm. And only when this mark is reached, you can welcome the next insurance crossing, which fixes the foundation of the roof.

Consistently moving on each of the 4 supports, after a certain time (as a rule, it leaves from 2-3 days) you can achieve the required height of the base lift. Note that as the roof lifts the jack point will also be raised.

To obtain a full-fledged "superstructure", the roof will need to raise the height of about 3 m.

For a complete set of preparatory, lifting and adhering work, you may need 10-12 days.

Low ceilings - the problem of many private houses of the old building. If you bought such a house or are its owner, the height of the ceilings can be increased, without disassembling the roofs. You can do it yourself, to get in one or two helpers.

But at first to this work, you need to prepare well. For this we will need at least three oil jack with a lifting capacity from 5 tons, the more, the better. In the quality of the racks, it is possible to use brica, bars, metal profiles (pipes, schweller, 2-ways). We prepare gaskets from thick boards or the same channels on the floor, and under the jacks and ceiling beams.

We will take care and about the material that we will increase the walls: brick, saman, foam blocks (about the wooden house is not talking now). Do not forget to buy cement and sand for the preparation of the solution. All materials should be enough for a full cycle of work, because they need to be done quickly. Otherwise, a strong wind can undermine the roof standing on the gaskets, and add a bunch of new problems to the owner.

If everything is ready, you can slowly start. We define where we have beams (in some homes they are sewn, in some visible outside). We start from the corner. We will need a rack (channel, log, timber) and three pads: under the channel on the floor, between the jack and the channel and between the jack and the beam. The axis should be strictly vertical, otherwise the rack and jack will begin to rejoice, the latter can jump out and cause injury. Therefore, be extremely attentive. If the work went with a breakdown, loosen the jack and proceed the entire design by vertical.

After making sure that the vertical is observed, extending a caution jack for 5 centimeters, no more. Place the laying between the wall and the beam. Drugs do not weaken. Take the next jack and raise the next beam. Having put forward all the jacks, you can move back to the corner, from where they started, raising the beams for another 5 centimeters and paving the gaskets of already greater thickness between the beams and the wall. Now go to the opposite wall and perform similar operations, raising the beams of 5 cm and installing the gaskets between the beams and the wall. From this side, they can be raised a total of 15-20 cm.

Extreme beams usually go over the walls. Domkrat do not bring there. Here I will help Older-Archimedes. We have to raise the beams manually, a lever with an enlarged shoulder. When the rest of the beams are already raised by this time, the task will not be so complicated. You may want to raise the height of window openings. To do this, you will need to raise jumpers over them and lay the emptiness at the moment when the roof is on jacks. But it's better with windows not to wise, but to build brick columns on the walls on the walls on the walls. When he gets up, the jacks can be loosen, gently lowering the beams to new supports. It will only remain to report the wall to the level of beams, smell all the gaps, and walk in the renewed house in full growth, and even bounce from joy.

One nuance. Do not leave jacks for a long time under load, and even more so at night. They can fail, and if you were taken for rent, you will have to explain with the owner. If you did not have time to finish working in the evening, lower the beams on the gaskets, and let the jacks take a rest. Do not lean the jacks in the beam itself without pads. The effort is quite large, and the roof weighs decently, so the beam is easy to split or split, it is also aged. Do not rush, and do the job carefully. Then the house will serve you for many years. Good luck!

The total problem of many houses of the old building are low ceilings. If you are the owner of this house and want to increase the height of the ceilings, it is not necessary to disassemble the roof - it can be raised on its own.

This will help our master class.

Tools and Materials for Work

We need:

• at least three jacks (preferably oil) with a lifting capacity from 5 tons;
• corresponding to them the amount of durable compression of wooden bars, metal chawls (optimally) or pipes of suitable length;
• the amount of hard gaskets for the floor, which will redistribute the dot load from the jack in the area (thick boards, slicing schuler, etc.);
• the gasket material that will be laid under the beams and jacks in the process of lifting the roof (trimming boards, bricks, etc.): their quantity must be calculated so as for all beams on both sides to the full height of the roof lift;
• the material from which walls will be raised (brick, seven, saman, etc.), as well as building solutions (sand, clay, cement, etc.): their quantity must be calculated depending on the length of the walls and height, on which the roof will raise.

So, let's begin

As part of the first stage of work, you need to adjust the jacks under the ceiling beams. Beams can be originally visible or sewn from below, in this case it is necessary to calculate their position (it corresponds to the location of the roofing case) and mark on the walls from the inside to know where to install jacks. In the process there will be a lot of dust, so the furniture is worth covering or out of the room.

We start from the corner. We establish a jack on the distributing gasket strictly under the beam and slightly explicate the channel between the beam and the jack, having extending the jack rod. The jack has yet to remain a stroke reserve for 5-10 centimeters for the upcoming lift. Next you need to make sure that the channel is located vertically in all planes. If necessary, you can weaken the jack, to adjust the channel and slightly separate it again.

If you do not plan to sew the beams in the future, put the laying material between the channel and the beam, so the beam will not receive damage. Now you can try carefully raise the beam. Watch out for the mutual position of the jack and channel. If you see what happens at the point of their contact, loosen the jack and move it slightly into the inner side of the break. Do not ignore this break - under the increasing load during the lifting the channel can jump out from the connection, which is fraught with injuries. If there is no breakfast, extend the rod of the jack of 5 centimeters, no more, and fix this position by placing between the beam and the laying wall. Do not weaken the jack at the same time.

The same operation will repeat with all the jacks on one side of the house.

The more jacks you have, the better - you will save time on their reinstalling.

When all the jacks are raised by 5 centimeters, you can start again from the first and to the penultimate, raising them for another 5 centimeters and increasing the thickness of the gaskets between the beam and the wall. It is not necessary to raise above: in the case of a large skeleton, the roof can "move" in the process of raising the opposite side.

Next we weaken and rearranged all jacks under the following beams, except for the last, raised by 5 centimeters. We repeat the whole process first. When all the beams on the one hand are raised by 10 centimeters and gaskets are embedded under them, go to the other side of the house and raise the same way. From this side, it is possible to lift 15-20 centimeters, we also make all further lifts to the necessary height. Thus will be compensated for a small displacement, which is obtained during the skew of the roof.

Additional difficulties

The first and last beams are usually hidden by a wall, so it will be necessary to raise them manually, with an enlarged shoulder. Make it will be much easier when the second and penultimate beams of the house are already raised by 5 centimeters.

The distribution gasket under the jack should be strong enough, this will avoid damage to the flooring.

Fix the roof at the right height

When the beam is raised to the necessary height, under it you need to build a backup. Even if you use clay when bookmarking the openings, it is better to use a solution for the construction of the backups, since it dries faster and acquires the necessary strength. Returning the backup will have to be at the point when the beam relies on the raised jack, after weakening the jack on the backup immediately lay the load - the fresher clay at this moment is likely to give a drawdown.

Particular difficulties will be part of the walls, where the beams fall over the window openings. You will probably want to increase the height of the windows, for this you will need to raise the jumpers and lay emptiness at the moment when the beams are based on the jacks.

Try to effectively organize the whole process so that it takes as little time as possible. While the roof is standing on temporary supports, it is a pretty shaky design - a strong wind glowing can spoil the result of your work.

After the inner laying is put, and the roof is firmly worth, you can lift the facial laying.

Since the rise and repair of the roof - the occupation is quite time consuming, it is worth thinking immediately and about the renewal of the roof, so that this question is no longer bothered.

Vitaly Chetverik, RMNT.ru

Heat the room in which the ceiling is low much easier. This technique was often used in old houses. But it was not the only reason, another problem was the lack of modern technologies on the preparation of building materials. Often, when performing repair work, the owners are interested in how to raise the ceiling in the house with the smallest loss.

Why low ceiling

In order to better approach work to increase the level of ceilings, it is important to know two more reasons for which the ceilings are low:

• inattentive approach when choosing logs;
• shrinking building;
• uneven load distribution;
• the house was originally designed incorrectly.

During the purchase of building materials, it is better to do this with its own roulette. So you will have the opportunity to check the compliance of the stated size. Often, for the sake of saving or desire to earn more, and sometimes simply because of negligence, the overall width can be underestimated by a centimeter that when assembling a common design can be poured at 15, or even 20 cm.

Note! In the case when the building was built from a bar or profiled log, or without a foundation, it can give a significant shrinkage. In the case of rounded logs, this value can reach 10-15 cm. It happens that the builders do not take into account this moment and do not reserve, which subsequently leads to unpleasant consequences.

When designing a house, it is necessary to properly approach the distribution of the load on the support beams and walls. In this case, the entire building will form a monolithic frame. It is important that all the material be from one batch, then there will be a high probability that all the boards will behave equally.

Methods of raising

In most cases, the ceiling level can be raised, without disassembling the roof. In other situations, without it can not do. Here are the ways that are used quite often:

• Floor lowering. This option will be implemented not in all situations. If the house is completely without a foundation or it is not sufficiently shrouded, it can lead to partial or complete destruction of the building. When applying this method, it is also necessary to analyze, at what height will turn out to be. Perhaps they will have to be transferred to the level below.
• Changing the method of placing. Frequently used method. Suitable in most cases. With the right approach, you can get a beautifully decorated ceiling.
• . It can be implemented in the case when the ceiling crossbars are not supporting and rafters of the roof are not fixed.
• Lifting the whole building. Will be relevant in a wooden house , when the whole building forms a monolithic dressing from a bar and can be raised without the consequences of skew or the destruction of the walls.
• . Very impresent method, but, nevertheless, it can be implemented in compliance with all rules.

Note! No two fully identical buildings. This means that it is worth a business, analyzing general principles, and not template solutions.

Preparatory work

Before choosing one of the methods listed above, you must inspect the main nodes in the private house:

• Carefully inspect the foundation. Rate as far as it is broken in Earth. Is he tape, or it's just a mound from cobblestones.
• Rate the condition of the walls. If they are made of wood, catch them up to understand whether the bars have not rotted in the middle.
• Climb the attic. Look at what method the ceiling end is performed. Whether the subcording beams (riglels) were involved or ceiling were laid separately.
• Check how reliably the roofing flooring is fixed.

Note! If possible, before proceeding with the works, draw and write down the action on the paper sheet. This will provide an opportunity to best analyze all the advantages and difficulties.

If after the inspection you came to the conclusion that the foundation has high strength and is made in good things, then you can go this way.

• If the house is made of logs, it means that lags are fixed between the first and second crown. The main task will be to omit them directly on the foundation or slightly lower. In this way, we will be able to win about 20 cm.
• We free our room from all the furniture and make it cleaning.
• With the help of a nail, remove the boards that form an outdoor coating. Do not hurry to throw them out. If they are oak or just in good condition, then they can still come in handy.

• Rate the status of the lag. Look, whether they are provided for the basis only in this room or have a continuation in the neighboring.
• Sut the lags with a hacksaw, a saber or chain saw. Be careful, sometimes nails can come across.
• Sealing gaps and openings that remained in the walls after extraction of BRUSEV.
• We inspect and clean the space that has become available.
• We carry the boards to the level below. For this, if necessary, it is important to make openings under the planks in a bustling crown. After they are inserted and fixed (you can with metal corners).
• If the floor was not insulated, then in the presence of space, it is possible to fill perpendicular slats to which mineral wool is stacked (it will need to be covered with a film) or polystyrene foam.
• If the floor boards were in good condition, then they can be used again in order to sew the floor. After that, everything will need to clean up, brew and paint.

If the operations are made not in the house from the bar, then after removing the floor covering, it may be necessary to deepen in the soil to achieve the desired result.

• When performing such actions, you lose a significant layer that served as insulation. Now it is necessary to compensate for it. The sample should be made according to the fact that the insulation layer will be laid. It will consist of waterproofing, crumples and, possibly, polystyrene foam. It is better to pour the screed from above.
• You should not forget that the walls are denied and the appearance of cold bridges is possible. To compensate them, you can put waterproofing and damping tape even before completing the floor insulation layer. It should go above the future screed. Her surplus is trimmed with a knife.

If, having been in the attic, you noticed that the ceiling consists of boards that are packed on the lower part of the beams, it is just the perfect option that is easiest to fix.

• It is better to free the room completely, not trying to cover the furniture, because it will still randomly damaged.
• Remove the whole decorative trim from the ceiling.
• We remove the layer of boards and insulation, which may be present there.
• If the boards are in good condition, they can be reused.
• We inspect the status of the beams. They can be cleaned and covered with an antiseptic if it is required.
• We carry the linked boards from the bottom of the beams to the top. Thus, we will win about 20 cm space. But the design of the overlap will now be visible.
• In case the surface of the bar of the overlap has a non-primary look and the coating of the vehicle will no longer help, then you can go to another. Using wooden lining or drywall, sew them and chop out in the color of the tree.
• Further finishing work.

Usually, during the construction of houses for the ceiling, individual ceiling beams are placed, which are not connected to the roof design. If so and in your case, you can do as follows:

• Clean the space of the attic and remove the entire skin with the ceiling.
• We go back to the room and make the backups under the existing ceiling beams. They can be tied to tightening (transverse croplands of farms). Before performing this operation, it is very important to correctly calculate the most suspended weight.
• After the beam was recorded, it can be trimmed with saber or chainsaws. When both ends are released, it simply goes to the ground.
• So do it with each of the cross.
• After the ceiling space is released, it is possible to raise the blacks with logs.
• The binding of the ceiling cover is carried out to the beams of farms. Thus, you can lift the ceiling for several tens of centimeters.
• If this seemed a little, then you can do differently. With the right approach, there is an advantage of delay. Before cutting old, new, which are located a little higher. The entire design is fixed and additional grooves and struts are added if necessary. Next, we like the ceiling to new beams.

Lifting the whole building

Before you use this method, it is best to have several jacks. Their load capacity should be from 5 tons. In the simultaneous rise, there is a risk of loss of the reference point, so it is important to consider the prevention of horizontal displacement.

• Determine what height you want to raise the building.
• Divide this value by 5 cm - it is so better to raise in one approach. It is possible to smallest altitude, but not big.
• Make backups according to the number of approaches.
• Determine the reference points for jacks.
• Before starting work, make sure of the walls and fixing the roof.
• The rise must be made synchronously.
• As soon as the next wedge is led, it must be fixed to the previous one with the help of self-sustains so that they do not dispersed.
• After achieving the desired height, the jacks are weakened and everything remains on the backups.
• Now you can add several crowns into the resulting space. Instead of the crowns, you can pour the foundation for the planned level.
• Then the hydro and thermal insulation is carried out. The building is a bit raised again, supports are removed, after which it sits on the place intended for him.

Note! Before performing all operations, calculate the mass of the house. To do this, the volume of the material is multiplied by its density. The volume is obtained by multiplying the width, length and height, then the values \u200b\u200bfor each wall are plusing and added to the approximate weight of the roof.

This option can be carried out if the roof is close to the perfect state.

• Determine what height you want to raise the roof.
• Calculate the overall weight of the roof design.
• Now it is necessary to strengthen the perimeter. To do this, the channel series is not below the 14th. It is necessary to build a framework that will connect the entire design.
• The base is fixed to the brue using self-samples with a diameter of at least 10 mm and a length of at least 10 cm.
• If necessary, throw additional crossbars between farms.
• Now you need to fully disassemble the ceiling to set the support legs.
• Support legs are made of cruciform base. To do this, the channel 12u is applied. Four vertical slats from the same material are welded to the base. The distance between them should be such a jack inside inside. They are connected by perpendicular crossbar. Additionally mounted grooves.
• Stands are located in the places of reference points. The rise is carried out using one jack in 5 cm increments.
• When the roof is raised to the desired height, additional crowns are installed in the case of a wooden structure or armopoyas.
• After the roof support is ready, it can be installed on the place.

Note! Perform work only in windless weather, because there is a danger of collapse due to wind gusts.

This article is designed to give the main idea of \u200b\u200bthe possible ways to solve problems. In each particular situation there are difficulties and unique ideas are born. Share your solutions in the comments. We are always glad to new offers!

Video

In this video, it is shown how the private home is being lifted: