Drying oil is a foaming agent made from vegetable oil and undergone special treatment (long-term overheating high temperature or oxidation). Also added to it are driers and solvents, which are used in the manufacture of paints, varnishes, primers and putties. Drying oil is used as a primer for wood and other porous materials before painting, for the manufacture of putty compositions, and also as an independent decorative coating.
According to their classification they are:
- Natural;
- Semi-natural;
- Combined;
- Synthetic.
Depending on which class the drying oil belongs to, it has its own drying time. Knowing the drying time of a particular class of drying oil, you will be able to work with this material much better. So, if it does not dry sufficiently, and you start painting the object, the coating will not adhere well and will begin to crack over time.
Note! All types of drying oil, except natural, contain highly flammable solvents, which makes them explosive and fire hazardous.
Natural and semi-natural drying oils
Natural drying oils are made by processing vegetable oils (linseed, sunflower, tung and others), which are in the process of drying. This material contains virtually no solvents. Flaxseed natural drying oil is a transparent, light and oily liquid that is made from flax oil and drier. It is used for the following purposes:
- Primer of wooden and metal surfaces;
- For diluting putties, putties and paints;
- For floor painting work, window frames and doors.
Its drying time at a temperature of 20 degrees is no more than 24 hours. The drying time of hemp drying oil is the same. It is a dark oily liquid. It is used for the same purposes as flaxseed. Sunflower drying oil dries more slowly and is still slightly sticky after 24 hours. Its film is elastic, but its strength, hardness and resistance to water are less than those of hemp and flax.
Semi-natural drying oils are a product of strong heat treatment sunflower oil and drier containing 55% condensed oil and 45% volatile solvents. Their technical properties allow them to be used in combination with other materials in order to obtain a high-quality paint coating. The film has good gloss, high hardness and water-repellent effect.
Important! Semi-natural drying oils are not suitable for painting floors.
Combined and synthetic drying oils
Combined drying oil is a product of dehydration and polymerization of drying oils. They are mainly used for the production of thickened paints. Available in brands K-2, K-3, K-4 and K-5. They dry within 24 hours.
Synthetic drying oil is a dark liquid produced by the oxidation of shale oil, which dissolves in xylene. It requires at least 24 hours to dry completely and is resistant to atmospheric influences. This is the cheapest drying oil; it is used for diluting dark paints and for carrying out minor painting works in room. It can only be used in well-ventilated areas. This drying oil does not dry as well as other types. It is poorly saturated, and most of the film remains on the surface.
Important! Not suitable for painting objects household use and floors.
Used for the following purposes:
- Primer of concrete surfaces;
- Preparation of putties and mastics;
- Primer of metal surfaces indoors;
- For impregnation of wood in outdoor works;
- For fixing and updating old coatings.
When working with wood and many other porous surfaces, one of the most commonly used materials is drying oil. We apply it as a primer or for other reasons. But those of you who have encountered this product at least a few times know that it has long time drying, and that work cannot be continued until drying is complete.
The basis for the olive is overheated and specially oxidized vegetable oil. At the same time, various driers, solvents and other components characteristic of paint and varnish products.
The main task of drying oil is to form on the surface of wood protective layer to prevent the penetration of moisture, mold, mildew, rot and insects. Finally, this material is used as a primer, allowing the paint to go on more smoothly and efficiently, and also reducing the consumption of this paint itself.
Do not forget that wood coated with linseed oil is very beautiful, so this paintwork It is also used for decorative purposes.
Types of drying oil
Drying oil drying time wooden surface or chipboard depends on the type of product. There are four options on the market today:
- Natural;
- Semi-natural;
- Synthetic;
- Combined.
Natural drying oil, unlike its synthetic “brothers”, is not a fire hazard, since it contains almost no solvents. However, the drying time depends on the type of oil. The product dries on linseed and hemp oil for 24 hours, but sunflower oil will still be sticky at this point
Semi-natural drying oil contains approximately 45 percent solvents. Like natural, it is used not only for coating wood, but also for diluting paint and varnish products. However, the semi-natural option is not used for flooring. Drying time is approximately 24 hours.
Synthetic drying oil is the cheapest. It is obtained by oxidizing shale oil followed by dissolution in xyol. Unlike all others, it is not used for processing household surfaces. Requires room ventilation. Its scope of application includes priming concrete, metal, diluting paint and varnish products, preparing plaster and mastic. Drying time is usually more than 24 hours
The combined drying oil dries in about a day. It is obtained by polymerization and dehydration of oils. It is not used for coating surfaces - it is used in paint production.
How to speed up the drying process of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard
Unlike paint, which dries after the solvent evaporates, drying oil dries through the process of oxidation, that is, by contacting oxygen.
Many people ask what to do if the drying oil does not dry out. In reality, you almost always have to wait, and there aren't many ways to speed up the process. One of them is to use a heat gun. The thing is that the drying process of drying oil is accelerated under conditions of elevated temperature and low humidity. And the fan heater does this job very well. By the way, previously it was practiced to apply drying oil hot just to increase the drying speed.
Another way is to use a drier. Red lead is ideal. Please read the instructions carefully before use.
How to tell if drying oil is completely dry and what to do if it doesn’t dry
The main sign that this material completely dry - no stickiness. However, in some cases, drying oil does not dry out even after 10 days. Most likely the reason is marriage. There is no point in waiting for such drying oil to dry out - it is better to clean it from the surface. One way to do this is with white spirit. However, if the material is deeply embedded in the wood, a plane may be required.
AvtoSaratov > Educational and entertaining section > Useful. Interesting. Informative > Drying oil, processing of wooden surfaces
View full version: Drying oil, wood surface treatment
Obi-Wan Kenobi
31.10.2011, 11:01
Treated the inside with drying oil garage doors. Reiki coniferous tree, probably pine.
What is drying oil needed for: what does it do and how to use it correctly
Why does it take so long to dry? Maybe there are some conditions temperature regime, at which drying will proceed faster?
Drying oil was produced in Voronezh.
Pinocchio
31.10.2011, 11:12
Is it just me, or does the second layer of drying oil always behave this way?
The first layer dried very quickly, in about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) and feels a little sticky to the touch.
Obi-Wan Kenobi
31.10.2011, 11:46
Well, this is normal for the second layer of drying oil (((especially since the room is rather damp. If the drying oil is based on fuz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), then such drying oil will never dry out, and neither varnish nor paint will be able to paint over this disgrace. Drying oil on The base has a reddish color and a dark sediment. If there were natural drying oil, it would dry faster!!!
The room is not humid, moreover, it is heated.
Drying oil has a brownish color, the sediment is not visually determined.
31.10.2011, 14:19
All types of drying oils are used for impregnation and coating of wooden surfaces and various products made of wood.
The weather resistance of most drying oils is inferior to others available means protection of surfaces, therefore the use of drying oils in pure form(not included in paints) for outdoor use is limited. There is currently no point at all in using natural drying oil, the most expensive of all drying oils, for exterior work - the coating will have to be constantly updated, which is very expensive and impractical. Using natural drying oil to pre-coat surfaces for painting is also pointless, since cheaper drying oils - oxol and alkyd - are better suited for this. Weather resistance is maximum with alkyd drying oils - an alkyd drying oil coating is approximately twice as durable as any oil drying oil. In any case, it is better to use drying oil in exterior work only as a preliminary coating for subsequent painting.
For interior works, from the point of view of ease of use and environmental friendliness, natural oil drying oil- it practically does not smell, the coating does not emit substances harmful to health, and work on the coating is also not associated with harm to health. But due to the high cost of this drying oil, oxol (or alkyd drying oils) are more often used for interior work. Due to the odor of oxol, work with it must be done in a well-ventilated area. Until complete drying, the applied coating continues to emit white spirit vapors, which is why a characteristic odor remains in the room for up to several days.
Composite drying oils are, as a rule, toxic, and not only during the drying period - the surface covered with composite drying oil may continue to smell and emit harmful substances for several years after coating. Therefore, composite drying oils can only be used for processing wood and other porous surfaces for outdoor work, as well as in non-residential premises with good ventilation. They are not recommended for use in interior work in apartments and other residential premises. Surface treatment (http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9E%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%84%D0%B0)
Obi-Wan Kenobi
31.10.2011, 14:38
By the way, the drying oil I used has almost no smell...
Obi-Wan Kenobi
01.11.2011, 07:58
What do you think, what if you try to dry it with a hairdryer?
Will it dry out or, conversely, leak?
It will leak and it will get worse.
IMHO drying oil is hopelessly outdated... +100. Yes, and from that same drying oil there is only one name left, the one they sell now is just to dilute the red lead)))
Obi-Wan Kenobi
02.11.2011, 12:31
It will leak and it will get worse.
It was necessary to cover the thread with something containing wax. IMHO drying oil is hopelessly outdated...
I recently turned on the heating and it dried noticeably faster. It sticks only where the layer was thicker)
Moreover, it is heated.
Obi-Wan Kenobi
07.11.2011, 14:32
so you said that the room was warm?)))
They would have turned it on right away))) the losses will be great))
The room is initially dry and moderately warm) but with heating it is warmer))
Obi-Wan Kenobi
07.11.2011, 14:33
Something olifil about 15 years ago - sticks)))
I impregnated the chipboard on the floors with drying oil, axol in my opinion, it dries quickly, in two layers, both dried instantly)
Well, who's lucky)
But much less!
07.11.2011, 15:45
The first layer dried very quickly, in about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) and feels a little sticky to the touch.
Why does it take so long to dry?
07.11.2011, 15:47
What do you think, what if you try to dry it with a hairdryer?
bug...
07.11.2011, 15:49
Well, who's lucky)
Nope. depends on the degree of dilution and the diluent-solvent.
Obi-Wan Kenobi
08.11.2011, 09:41
😆 Drying oil is generally one of those that dry out...
The first layer did not dry out, but was absorbed.
But I have a hard time understanding why the second layer is needed. after all, varnish would be more appropriate.
for the second layer (I really don’t know why it is needed), the drying oil must be liquefied almost to the state of water and covered the thinnest layer. When the diluent evaporates, “drying out” will occur.
Well, I didn't know)
On this moment almost everything has dried up, or been absorbed))
Obi-Wan Kenobi
02.05.2012, 14:32
Close the topic.
Michael, is it dry? 🙂
Obi-Wan Kenobi
02.05.2012, 14:54
Michael, is it dry? 🙂
Yep :)
I was surfing through my created topics and saw this old stuff)
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright 2018 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved. Translation: zCarot
Copyright 2002 - 2018 / AvtoSaratov | autosaratov.ru
Is it necessary to dry the fiberboard if it acts as a substrate?
It was necessary to level the floors, but there was no way to make a screed.
How long does drying oil take to dry or when can you continue working?
We decided to install fiberboard. Do I need to pre-coat it with drying oil?
Of course, fiberboard is not the material that is placed on the floor or even as a substrate.
Fiberboard does not like moisture very much.
If possible, it is better to lay down plywood; the plywood should be no thinner than two centimeters.
As for the drying oil, it is better, of course, to dry it on both sides; if on one side, then the fiberboard can be unscrewed.
Before laying it on the floor, give it time to “sit”; do not nail the fiberboard to the floor right away.
If the room is damp, for example a kitchen, then drying oil will not save the fiberboard.
Alternatively, you can use paint instead of drying oil, dilute it with a solvent and paint the fiberboard on both sides, this paint will protect the fiberboard from moisture, the quality of the paint is in second place, it is important that it is present (although quite a lot of paint will be used, the surface is porous) .
Drying oil takes a long time to dry; when drying, it is advisable to use a temperature not lower than +20 degrees.
And lastly, in order to dry the fiberboard efficiently, heat the drying oil before applying it to the sheet; it must be heated to a temperature of fifty degrees.
It is advisable to cover the fiberboard with two layers of drying oil; before applying the second layer, you must allow the first to dry completely.
Naturally, two layers are applied to both sides of the fiberboard sheet.
When you lay fiberboard on the floor, leave a small gap for expansion.
Be sure to cover the fiberboard with drying oil on all sides, like the bottom and top part, and carefully process the ends, maybe even in several layers!
The reasons for this are as follows:
- Any room has its own humidity, which changes throughout the year depending on weather conditions, and fiberboard is susceptible to moisture accumulation, unless of course it is a special fiberboard that has been treated against water...
- Everyone washes their floors, some with vacuum cleaners, and others with a rag on a mop the old fashioned way, and during washing, moisture can get onto the fiberboard substrate and be absorbed into it...
- Also, no one is safe from a flood when a large number of water may get under the floor...
Well, if water gets under the floor and the fiberboard absorbs it, then the following consequences are possible:
- rotting
- swelling
- destruction
Which will subsequently lead to the need to change the substrate, i.e. for repair...
More questions on your topic:
leave a comment
Builder's Dictionary:: Repair questions:: Calculators:: Special equipment:: Miscellaneous
2006 - 2017 © user agreement:: contact with the site administration [email protected]
How to dry drying oil?
Apply drying oil to the surface of a metal barrel. The barrel has been sitting in a warm (+15 degrees) garage for a week and smells very strongly. How can you dry it faster?
Drying oil: varieties and applications
Is there a way to fit it into the day? If not, is it possible to dry it outside (currently the temperature is about 0)?
I wouldn’t like to upset you, but there is very little chance that the drying oil will dry out.
If there is a strong and unpleasant smell, then it is most likely Ansol drying oil, it is not even drying oil, but its artificial substitute, there is no vegetable oil in its composition at all, only petroleum products.
True, "Ansol" dries very quickly, a day maximum, which means you have two in one and the drying oil is not drying oil, and even stitched.
The first option is to try drying it with a hair dryer (a regular one won’t work), direct the stream of hot air as if casually, so that the flow of hot air seems to “fit” your barrel.
If nothing helps, then there are no options to dry it at all; the drying oil just needs to be removed from the surface.
You can remove drying oil with gasoline, you can use White Spirit, and also better solvent For oil paints"Solvent".
The procedure is not complicated, moisten a large rag with the products that I listed above (one of them, of course), then take a break for about forty minutes, then repeat the procedure, thus very quickly removing the drying oil from the barrel (You are writing about a whole day of work, that’s enough here several hours).
Drying oil has a short drying time, regardless of what it is made with. Usually it is 24-30 hours after application to the surface, after drying it shines and becomes glossy, the temperature required is 20 degrees Celsius.
If drying oil is expired, it has an unpleasant pungent odor, when applied it is sticky, viscous, and does not dry.
Yours metal barrel It dries for a week at a temperature of 15 degrees, but it stinks strongly, therefore the drying oil was old, there is no point in waiting for it to dry, the surface will only become more and more sticky, the smell does not dissipate even after a long period of time.
Drying oil for wood is a film-forming transparent liquid made from natural or artificial components. It can be used for priming and as an additive for more complex mixtures.
What is drying oil used for? It is used separately and as a material for surface treatment when working on wood. Why treat the surface? Wood itself does not have high strength and not very durable. . In addition, it allows you to reduce consumption rates decorative covering, such as varnish, or a coloring agent - it will not be additionally absorbed into wood already impregnated with oil.
All existing species Drying oils can be roughly divided into the following categories:
- natural;
- semi-natural;
- combined;
- synthetic.
When processing, it is necessary to apply a sufficiently large amount of drying oil to the product, because the wood needs to be well saturated. If necessary, after drying, apply another layer - the treatment can be repeated if the wood still absorbs the solution.
How much impregnation will you need to treat the surface? The calculation will be easier to do if you remember that the consumption rate of linseed oil per 1 sq.m. wood is from 80 to 100 grams. These standards may vary depending on the type of solution and external factors.
Drying the surface after impregnation
How long the drying oil dries depends on the amount of drying agent, temperature and humidity, as well as the type and quality of the impregnation itself.
It has been noticed that solutions with polymetallic driers dry much faster. Natural drying oil made from flax dries in 20 hours when adding lead and 12 hours when adding manganese. If you add a mixture of these metals as a drier, the drying time will be reduced to 8 hours.
Temperature and humidity are very important for drying speed. Drying drying oil with cobalt drying agent will require 2 times less time, and with manganese drying agent - 2-3 times, if the thermometer shows more than +25ºС. The drying speed will decrease significantly if the indoor air humidity is 70% or more.
Removing drying oil
Almost all types of impregnations are removed from a wooden surface using gasoline. A small piece of rag is soaked in gasoline and wiped over the desired area. After 15-20 minutes, the oil can be easily removed from the surface with the same rag. However, it must be remembered that it is possible to remove only the top layer of impregnation - the absorbed drying oil will remain in the wood forever.
- Instead of gasoline, impregnation can be removed with white spirit, which has a less pungent odor. In this case, the same actions are performed. When working on wood, instead of drying oil, a product such as stain is sometimes used. This liquid is also absorbed into the wood. But it has a different purpose - stain is needed to emphasize the natural wood grain, it makes the wood more beautiful appearance. Classic stain does not have wood-protecting properties; it is a purely decorative product.
Therefore, after it dries, additional varnish is applied to the wood. Wood protection is provided only by stain, one of the main components of which is alcohol or solvent. Stain and varnish are usually used in combination; the surface of the wood is properly impregnated with the stain, and when it has dried, varnish is applied to the treated areas. To protect the tree, it can be coated with other materials, such as antiseptics.
Old drying oil is an excellent analogue of modern and more expensive methods of impregnation and priming wood surfaces. But it is worth remembering that use in residential buildings is not permissible for all types.
All photos from the article
Treating wood with drying oil has been practiced for several hundred years. Our ancestors used it to protect wood, give products a golden hue and make paints.
But, despite such advanced age and the emergence of many alternative compositions, impregnation of wood with drying oil is still relevant. We will talk further about what this product is, its types and methods of use.
What is drying oil and why is it needed?
So, drying oil is a liquid, flowing substance that resembles oil, but with a thicker consistency. The color can vary from dark brown to yellow-golden. The level of transparency can vary, although a completely opaque liquid is extremely rare and usually indicates a quality problem.
Initially, all such compositions were made exclusively on natural oils. Most often it was used, although in some cases sunflower or hemp was used. Scientifically technical progress made his own adjustments and now semi-synthetic and synthetic drying oils have appeared.
As for the scope, it is very diverse. Such compositions are the basis for the production of oil-based liquid and thick-based paints. Whole line Putties and grouts are made from drying oil.
It acts as a primer for many compounds when processing metal or concrete. But the most popular is coating wood with drying oil.
Types of compositions
As already mentioned, many different compositions are now produced, collectively called drying oil. Experts identify several main areas. In particular, these are natural, semi-natural, combined, alkyd and synthetic compositions.
Natural based compositions
The name speaks for itself. The basis here is drying, sometimes semi-drying vegetable oils. In rare cases and in small quantities, solvents can be added here, but only on a natural basis.
The standard is GOST 7931-76.
- Composition based linseed oil deservedly considered classic and of the highest quality. This is a thick, light transparent liquid obtained by prolonged boiling and the addition of a drier.
The range of applications is quite wide:
- They can be used as a primer under wooden, metal or plastered surfaces.
- It is linen compositions that are used for the production of light oil-based thickly grated paints, grouts and putties. Putties and lubricating pastes are also made from them.
- Most often it is used for interior work. Flaxseed oil for exterior woodwork can theoretically be used, but this is not advisable, since its price is higher, plus there are targeted synthetic protective compounds.
- The speed of work completion directly depends on how long the drying oil dries on the tree. In this case, at a temperature not lower than 20ºС, the drying time does not exceed 24 hours.
Important: the drier is added to one degree or another to any such composition; in fact, it is a kind of hardener. But you need to add it without fanaticism, as a rule, no more than 3 - 5% per 1 liter. Otherwise, the dried film will peel off.
The video in this article contains Additional Information on this topic.
Conclusion
Regardless of which drying oil you decide to use, all compositions of this type belong to the fire hazard category. Both the containers themselves and the application tool should be in an isolated place, away from electrical wiring or open flame.
