This article outlines instructions, how to mount plasterboard to wooden bars and make the installation of drywall on a wooden frame light and fast.

Is it possible to mount plasterboard on a wooden frame

Facing the walls and ceilings of indoor premises is a quick, inexpensive and sufficiently non-robous modern method of finishing the interiors of civil and public houses.

There are several trimming options with a plasterboard sheet (GLK):

• Direct installation, it can be done using a gypsum solution or special adhesive mastic if the walls and ceilings have a flat prepared framework
• Wooden or metal frame under drywall must be used if the work surface has a skewer, strong waviness, and other irregularities.

The framework of the frame can serve as a metal galvanized sheet profiles, and wooden elements - rail, timber, board. A possible frame for plasterboard from a tree may be preferable to a metal profile, since the installation of drywall does with their own hands on the wooden frame does not represent a special complexity and does not require special skills. Wood is easily processing - dried, sawing.

Is it possible to mount plasterboard on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, it allows you to save on the finish, refusing to acquire sufficiently expensive metal profiles. However, the carcass for drywall from the tree is not recommended to use when the room has increased humidity - in the bathrooms, boiler, shower and private bathrooms.

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Wooden frame for plasterboard do it yourself

How to make a wooden frame for plasterboard? If the partition is trimmed, it is usually a three-layer construction of a cutting board with a thickness of 25-30 mm. The outer layers are formed from vertical boards, and the inner layer is from horizontal. If the partition installation is neatly and competent, without distortion, then such a partition actually forms a frame for drywall from the boards to which without any preparation using self-samples, you can mount the panels from GOC.

The use of the board for the manufacture of framework designs in other cases is inappropriate, as this will lead to the consumption of material and an increase in the cost and complexity of work. For cladding concrete, bricks, logs, as well as old peashed walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame from a bar under plasterboard.

Many are interested, is it possible to mount plasterboard on wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as a rack and rack) is insignificant to the installation of GLCs, the installation of drywall on wooden rails and the installation of drywall on the bars almost does not differ among themselves.

Mounting drywall to the wall on a wooden frame

Is it possible to mount drywall on wooden bars if simply fasten them on the walls or ceiling? This option is possible, but it is better to make a carcass for drywall from wooden bars. In how to mount the timber to the plasterboard, a small instruction on the installation of drywall on a wooden frame of timber will be helped.

For drywall, the largest distribution was obtained with the following dimensions: in width of 1200 mm and a length of 2500 mm. In this case, the installation of panels on the design of the framework of the tree of different types and characteristics (moisture-resistant, hardening, etc.) has the same composition of the work.

Preparation of necessary materials, fixtures and tools

To determine the required number of HCL plates, it is necessary to draw a sketch plan for the scan of walls and the ceiling with all door and window openings, slopes and technological niches (for example, under heating radiators). After counting the working area, it should be divided into an area that one GKK has. The resulting value should be increased by 20% (on trimming and unforeseen expenses), which will be the number of required panels.

• for mounting adjacent plates - with dimensions of 80 x 25 mm (first type)
• for intermediate vertical and horizontal mounts - with dimensions of 40 x 25 mm (second type)

It is necessary to put the vertical and horizontal axes on the plan, which will be installed on the wall elements of the frame, which ensure the mounting of the plasterboard onto the wooden bars. Its structural scheme will be:

• two vertical timers of the first type of 2500 mm long along the edges of the plate with a distance between them along the axis line 1200 mm
• two vertical bars of second type 2500 mm long, with a distance of each other and the bars of the first type in the axes of 400 mm
• six horizontal bars of the second type installed in the upper and lower plate
• three intermediates that need to be installed on the axes located at a distance of 1250 mm from the upper and lower edge of the plate; The length of the extreme bars will be 400-80 / 2-40 / 2 \u003d 340 mm, the length of the average - 400 - 40/2 - 40/2 \u003d 360 mm

Additionally, the bars of the second type should be used for the framework of window and door openings and technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal timber is replaced by a timber with a cross section of 80 x 40 mm and is installed so that the additional 40 mm is used to fasten the top panel from the Cut-off to the corresponding length of the GLC leaf, the length of the vertical bars of the first and second should also be increased. Type and installed upper second type bar.

After calculating the total length of the required number of bars and also increases it by 20%, they can be purchased in the construction market or to do in a workshop engaged in wood processing. Particularly need to pay attention to the missing space and increased batch.

Before use of at least one week, the entire set of wooden bars should be designed in the room in which it will be used. Thereafter, rejection should be carried out, and the remaining trees with special compositions - antiseptics that prevent rotting and damage to fungi and mold, with antipirens that attach flame retardant properties. Currently, there are impregnation of deep penetration impregnation, providing protection of wood and preventing moisture in indoor vibrations in fairly wide limits.

In the manufacture and mounting of the frame, you must follow the drawn plan.

Required tools

Tools and inventory that will be required to perform work:

• handsman on a tree
• construction knife
• construction corner
• steel rail-rule 1200-1500 mm long
• bubble level
• water level (when cladding the ceiling)
• plumb
• a hammer
• electric screwdriver
• staircase, stepladder, allowed to build and use homemade building goat-scaffolding
• protective devices (Hand gloves, glasses, respirators)

General provisions

The frame assembly and its installation from individual harvested elements with their own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - it is required to constant alignment and fitting in horizontal and vertical planes with constant use of a plumb, level, construction kit and rail-rules.

If the length and width of the room, the enlarged assembly of large frame fragments can be made directly on the floor. At the same time, the framework of the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and to align and attach in vertical and horizontal planes, will be substantially easier.

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The horizontal and vertical elements are well connected together with the use of a rigid metal segments bent under the right angle of the rigid metal of the desired width (25 mm) or through small lumps. Both those and others are fixed in the necessary places with screws.

The installation of frame fragments on the walls and the ceiling can be performed using a wood screw, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, with the help of the so-called "plugs", when in a brick or stone in the right place, in a predetermined point of the wall, the hole is drilled in which it is installed Wooden Cupik, in which, in turn, through an element of the frame, a nail is clogged or screwed down, while instead of a chopper, plastic beats with a metal self-tapping screw can be used.

After installing and equalizing the frame with significant tubes and skews between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps can be formed to fill with a gypsum solution (if the tree was previously protected by moisture impregnation), use the mounting foam or wooden wedges and lining together with glue glue for Tree, for example, PVA. Otherwise, a wooden frame for drywall on the wall (or ceiling) will have an increased increment and can be deformed when installing the GCC panels.

Installation of plasterboard on a wooden frame

After installing and aligning on the wall or on the ceiling of the frame design, you can begin mounting drywall on a wooden frame by directly editing the GCL panels. In how to fix bars to plasterboard, the following instruction will help.

To mount the drywall sheet, it must be tightly pressing to the mounted frame design of the wood frame, so that the long edges of the leaf lay down exactly along the axes of the bar of the first type by cross section of 80 x 25 mm per distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fix it to the remaining 40 mm adjacent sheet.

Fasteners are carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, it is necessary to start fixing the GCL leaf on the frame, starting with the average intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to be mistaken with twisting, on the sheet of drywall from the outside, it is better to put a line with a pencil that corresponds to the axes of the framework of the frame.

After that, you need to secure the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal frame elements. If the panel should be mounted on the wall, behind its verticality and absence of distortions you need to look using a plumb, and on the ceiling - using the level.

Then the sheet can be fastened with vertical racks. When spinning screws, it should be noted that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet should be at least 20 mm. The step between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.

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Instructions, how the plasterboard must be mounted on the ceiling, is not much different from how to mount the GLK on the wall. On the horizontal surface of the ceiling, the horizontal doom in the form of a frame, which should be attached to the ceiling designs and align horizontally using a water level. The enlarged elements of the framework for the convenience of its installation is also better to be appropriate on the floor.

In order to mount a frame from a bar for drywall on the ceiling and to strip his GLC, his hands may not be enough. For installation, assistant may be required. In exceptional cases, you can use the backups and disclosures that will be able to assist the installation of drywall on bars alone, but this method should be used with caution, since unforeseen situations may arise related to the fall and destruction of plasterboard sheets.

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Plasterboard on a wooden frame: arguments and countersdowns, restrictions and tips on the installation

When it makes sense to mount a drywall sheet on the frame at all, and on the wooden in particular? In what cases does the use of wooden crates inexpedient? How and from what to properly assemble a wooden frame for plasterboard? How to perform a framework of a frame and putty GLK? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

Glk against plaster

First, let's decide whether to contact the plasterboard at all or is better to use the plaster in the old way.

Here are the arguments in favor of GLK:

• High finishing rate due to a significant leaf area (3 square meters at 2500x1200 mm);
• The possibility with minimal costs to eliminate significant irregularities of the base. Let's say when the height drops between adjacent elements of the slab overlap in 8-10 centimeters (yes, and it happens) to align the ceiling by plaster is very consistent and unsafe: the fall of the detached plastering such thickness can make a lot of troubles.

But for the GLC on the crate, the condition of the surface does not matter under it - if only it was to secure the framework;

• Kraft paper surface (gypsum core shell) has excellent adhesive properties. It can be glued with the wallpaper of any density using any wallpaper glue; The tile is also perfectly glued to cement tiled adhesive or homemade mortar on a cement basis.

Curious: For stickers tiles on plasterboard over the bathroom, I used a point-applied silicone sealant. It was used to seal the seams between tiles and an apron to the bath. All seams retain absolute tightness for three years of active exploitation of the bathroom; Tile keeps more than secure.

What plasterboard loses plaster?

1. Mechanical strength. Clarify: on this parameter, the gypsum sheet is inferior only to cement plaster. Use GLK to finish the walls in the gym or in the workshop - a dubious idea;
2. Resistance to water with constant contact with it. Alas, even moisture-resistant plasterboard tolerates only high air humidity. It is worth immersing the gypsum core into the water - and it will be splashing in the same way as any other product of the gypsum. Accordingly, there will be a bad idea to use GLC without protecting the waterproof finishing for the construction of shower walls;
3. Occupied by the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room. The walls with insignificant irregularities in a small room is better to level the thin layer of plaster: after all, even pasted directly on the wall, without a crate, a sheet of GLC, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will shift the surface of each wall at least 20 mm. When installing on the frame, each wall will move to the center of the room at 60 - 80 mm.

Frame against glue

When is it worth mounting drywall on the frame, and when it is better to glue it directly on the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the differences, the dumps and the curvatinity of the base exceeds 40 - 50 millimeters, the framework is necessary. In this case, the glue is preferred: it will again save the room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will be fed down to the attachment of GLCs on the crate:

1. Installation of plasterboard partition. Here comments seem to be not required: without a frame of her skin, it simply not sharply secure.
2. Gasket behind the lining of the wall of communications - water supply, sewage, electrical wiring, ventilation, etc. Hide them for falsely much easier than to strobs the capital wall.

In some cases (for example, if we are talking about the panel septum inside the apartment), a significant width and depths are impossible in principle.

Tree against profile

In what cases will allow the installation of drywall on a wooden frame, and when is the galvanized profile preferred?

Brusk has the only dignity - cheapness. In order not to be unfounded, I will give average barn prices and profile for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, in contrast to galvanized steel, gigroscopic, and also capable change your linear dimensions and geometry Depending on air humidity. From the practical side, this means that in the raw room, a wooden lamp can be swallowed and unhappy the wall cladding, or even lead to the appearance of cracks by its seams.

Finally, a tree subject to biological influences: It rotes and becomes food for the woods. Again, in contrast to galvanized.

1. Wood frame for drywall can be used only in dry rooms. For the bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, it is worth preferred to a galvanized profile;
2. The elements of the crate before its assembly must be mandatory processed by antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, an easy way to bring the wood to a galvanized profile for operational qualities. In order for it to fully lose the hygroscopicity and the ability to deform with humidity fluctuations, the bar is sufficient soak oil: The components of its oils will fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of the tree, forming the shell impenetrable for water with polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

• Olif is better to apply heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates the structure of the fibers deeper; Accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

• The ends cut down the size of the bar easier do not cover the oil with the help of a brush, but to make a jar with her. It is the ends due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface most vulnerable to moisture;
• Olife dries several days and has a strong characteristic odor. For drying bar, it is better to highlight a separate room with good ventilation.

Selection of material

What is the carcass under the plasterboard from the tree?

I did not in vain, as an example, the price of a lamination crate of a bit of 50x50 millimeters: It is he who is the most chassis for assembling frames of partitions and cladding (ceiling and wall).

With special requirements for the stiffness of the septum, it can be collected from the bar 50x100; In this case, the wide party is oriented perpendicular to the wall plane: this is how the maximum resistance to the side load is achieved.

Finally, when installing a wall shabby, a edged and unedged arbitrary width board can be used. It is attached to the capital wall with long dowel-screws or even nails in wooden chops.

Are there any requirements for the quality of wood?

When assembling the frame or when installing the crates on the suspensions - there.

Wood should not have vices from the following list:

• Rot and defeat by the woods;
• Cosovation (significant deviation of the direction of wood fibers from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
• Dropping bitch with a diameter of more than a third side of the bar.

The instruction is related to the fact that all these vices are destructively affect the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the tree should not exceed 20%: when dried, the bar is often breeding.

Montage Rules Karcasa

Partition

The assembly of the partition frame begins with the markup of the fastening lines of the upper and lower strapping on the ceiling and on the floor, as well as extreme racks on the adjacent walls. To lies strictly in the same plane, use a plumb.

Then the bars of strapping and extreme racks are attached to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. The damper tape is laid under them, excluding the transmission of acoustic oscillations by capital designs of the building and thereby contributing to noise insulation. Anchor bolts or ordinary dowel screws can be used to fasten the strapping and racks to the walls.

The next stage is the installation of racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the stiffness of the septum and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets accounted for exactly on the middle of the rack.

The edges of the adjacent sheets are as possible to be attached to a common framework or cable element for them. In this case, the probability of the appearance of cracks on the seams is minimal.

Connections of racks with strapping do not experience significant operational loads - they are assumed to cover partitions, drywall, so any methods of attaching racks are allowed:

• Clogged or wrapped at an angle of the stand of nails or self-tapping screw;
• Inserting from the trimming of the bar, which is attached to the strapping, after which the rack is attracted to it;

• Galvanized perforated lining;
• Furniture corners;
• Cutting struts in drapery with a fit on glue. However, it is not suitable for the frame elements impregnated with oil: impregnation reduces adhesive quality of glue.

For gluing dry wood, you can use both specialized joinery adhesives and the usual construction glue PVA. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; Drying glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install the door in the wooden frame partition?

1. In the lower strapping, there is a pass on the width of the door with the box;
2. The door leaf is crushed in a box with wooden wedges. The goal is to store the gaps after installing the gaps that do not allow the doors to rub the shoals;
3. With one of the edges of the doorway, the rack adjacent to the box is mounted;
4. On the outer surface of the box, the strip of the mounting foam is applied, after which it is attracted by self-drawing to the rack. Self-tapping screws are screwed from the side of the rack, their length is selected so that they deepen into the box, but they did not pass through;
5. From the second side of the opening, the second rack is similarly mounted;
6. On top of the racks are connected by the jumper;
7. All compounds of racks with strapping are enhanced by galvanized overlays on self-drawing.

The light window (for example, in the bathroom wall) is established similarly - with a correction to the fact that its frame is based on the horizontal jumper between the racks.

Dome of the suspension

How do you collect a wooden crate to clamp a wall with significant gypsum drywall?

1. Assembly of the frame and in this case begins with mounting to the floor and the ceiling of the bottom and upper strapping. The damper tape is also put under them. The method of fastening the strapping is the same as in the above scenario;
2. Then, extreme racks are attached to the adjacent walls through the damper fly;
3. On the capital wall strictly vertically, the positions of intermediate racks are placed on the plumb (remind, with a step of 40 or 60 cm from the center to the center of Brousa);
4. Along every rack with a step of 80 cm attached dowel-screws direct suspensions;
5. The racks are set on the markup, after which they are screwed up with screws on a 25 mm ears of the suspension. The free part of the ears is bent to the wall. The frame is ready for the trim.

Cruise on pads

With a relatively small curvatroniness of the wall, the crate can be attached to it without suspension, using wood strips or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only the bar, but also the unedged board.

If necessary, a lumber of any width can be dissolved on narrow powder or a bar with a typical manual disk saw with a guide frame. The sawing of one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The doomle is attached to the capital wall with long dowel-screws or nails in pre-drilled holes with wooden choppers. Lower blockage as such is missing; Instead of her in the gap between the racks of the crates to the floor and the ceiling, short bars are attracted, which will continue to fit the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The skeleton of a simple single-level stream is mounted in the same way as a doomle on direct suspension - adjusted to the location in the horizontal plane. To create a frame of curvilinear elements of a multi-level stream, thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used; When covering, GLC is attracted by self-drawing to her end.

Sheaving

How to mount plasterboard on a wooden frame?

For the walls of the walls used wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm. The ceiling is usually trimmed with a ceiling drywall with a thickness of 9.5 mm. In dry rooms, an ordinary GLC (white) is used, in wet - moisture resistant (blue).

Let me remind you again: in premises with high humidity, the wooden frame is necessarily sequentially soaked with an antiseptic and oil.

For fastening sheet, tapping screws are used for a 32 mm long tree. Self-dynamics length exceeds used when mounting to the profile. The step between adjacent mounting points is 15-20 centimeters; The average fastener consumption is 100 screws on a sheet of 2500x1200.

When installing a challenged sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional bar is laid under perpendicular pillars. Instead, you can use the cutting board or thick (from 12 mm) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of the adjacent sheets are attached to the overall element of the frame.

Where the wall or partition is not experiencing deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without bookmarking the bar under the transverse seam. In his absence it is especially important to correctly perform reinforcement, which I will tell a little later.

In rooms with high patency or with alleged significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.) Frame is better to sow two layers. The GLC of the first layer is attached by 32 mm longs; Fasteners consumption - 20-30 self-tapping screws on a full-size sheet. The second layer of HCL is mounted with the ligation of horizontal and vertical seams; For fastening, tapping screws are used on a 45 mm long floor at the rate of 100 pieces onto a sheet.

How to cut GLK for the desired size?

• The curvilinear parts are cut with an electric bison with a tree filling. GLCs cut them very quickly and without any effort, but with cutting into the air, a huge number of plaster dust rises. It settles on all surfaces in the room. Especially destroyed gypsum for bearings of cooling systems of computers and laptops, so at the time of repair, they need to be kept off and covered with polyethylene;

• Along the straight lines of the GLCs are caught with a sharp knife according to a quarter of thickness, after which they break on the edge of the table or any other suitable elevation.

After mounting the seams between the sliced \u200b\u200bsheets, the sheets are expanded: the headset at the angle of 45 degrees on half of the sheet thickness is sharp.

Reinforcement and shtcocking

The plasterboard sheaves wall or partition is not yet ready for finishing: hats of self-tapping and seams between sheets need to be hidden by putty. In addition, the seams and the outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and strengthening.

For reinforcement of seams is traditionally used sERPYANK.- Self-adhesive firmware with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It passes along the seam, after which he is filled with putty right through the grid cells. Place is at least twice: the gypsum putty gives a small, but quite noticeable shrinkage during drying.

Outdoor corners are enhanced:

• Galvanized perforated angular profile;
• Plastic profile with a grid.

The corner is removed in a putty applied to the angle, after which it is covered by another layer.

However, I prefer to use an ornamental plastic plastic plastic plastic plastic plastic plastic plastic.

In the photo - the angle of the partition protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What putty to use to equalize the surface?

The most common gypsum spacities produced by the German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I am much like more cheaper and less common ABS Saten.: The mixture lives noticeably longer (at least 45 minutes against 25-30 in the products of KNAUF), if necessary, can be diluted with water (which increases its life to an hour or more) and does not give lumps when the shifting.

How to prepare putty?

1. Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry gypsum mixture is poured into wide dishes (I use plastic bucket from paint);
2. The mixture is poured into water, as much as possiblely distributed over its surface;
3. After 3-5 minutes, the swelling putty is mixed - manually (spatula) or a mealker for a drill.

How and how to put the seams, corners and hats of self-tapping screws?

• Hats are covered with two movements of a width of 10-12 cm crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the deepening with a putty, the second ("on the SDIR") removes its excess;
• The seams are also filled with cruciform movements of the same spatula. In this case, the seam turns out to be filled with putty as much as possible. The cavity in it increases the likelihood of cracks. The second passage of seams together with its reinforcing sickle is covered by the longitudinal movements of the spatula 30 - 35 cm wide;

• For alignment of external and internal angles, it is better to use special angular spatulas.

After filling the seams and disguise the Hats fasteners, the GLCs often put off all over the area. A layer of putty thick about a millimeter finally masks the seams and does not allow the base to be shifted through painting.

Next stage - grinding. GLCs are grinding nets No. 80 to the first pass and No. 120 - 160 second pass. Grind better with bright braid lighting, which will emphasize the slightest irregularities due to the shadows dropped. I use an inexpensive vibration grinder for grinding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate grinding can be performed after filling the seams and sealing the screws. Its necessity is determined only by the state of the surface.

The smooth surface of GLC is dustd (I clean it from the dust with a regular blizzard) and the penetrating acrylic soil is ground. The soil gluits dust residues and improve the adhesion between the surface of the drywall and the finishing coating - paint or wallpaper.

Wallpapers can be glued immediately after drying soil, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks After shtlivania. If you hurry, the seams will be shifted through any number of paint layers due to the end of the evaporated moisture.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I managed to answer all the questions accumulated from the respected reader. As usual, additional information will offer you a video in this article. Do not hesitate to share our own experience in comments. Successes, Camrads!

September 28, 2016.

If you want to express your gratitude, add clarification or objection to ask the author - add a comment or tell me thanks!

Despite the fact that such a building material, like plasterboard, apply everywhere recently, was patented in the 19th century in America. His first sheets were most similar to Napoleon cake - 10 sheets of paper, cursed with a thin layer of plaster. Invented his owner of a paper factory.

Such "paper" has gained wide popularity in the present days.

A little about plasterboard

Modern plasterboard is a complex composite material consisting of cardboard, gypsum and various additives that give it additional qualities, such as:

• Increased sound insulation.
• Fire safety.

Once the plasterboard was called "dry plaster", but the name did not fit.

It is used for the "dry" decoration of the room. That is, when using drywall dirt several times less than with traditional repair work.

Plasterboard is available in 3 versions:

• Standard, manufactured without additional additives.

Note!
Panels of standard drywall, depending on the thickness, are divided into ceiling and walls.

• Moisture-resistant;
• Fire-resistant.

In recent years, Knauf, one of the main manufacturers of drywall, has released superfield sheets that are designed to align the floor coatings. They have increased strength.

Important!
For decoration of residential premises, the plasterboard is suitable ideal, as it is safe from the point of view of ecology, and does not distinguish with the heating of poisonous substances.
It has acidity close to the acidity of human skin and naturally adjusts the microclimate in the room.

Modern repairs technology without it do not be able to. It is due to the plasterboard it is possible to build multi-level structures, creating a modern design of the premises.

How to install plasterboard

Installation of plasterboard is made frame and frameless methods.

• Frameless - Sheets of plasterboard with special glue are fixed directly on the walls.

• Frame - mounted frame for drywall from galvanized metal products of a certain shape or wooden rails, and the sheets are fixed by self-reserves.

Each method of fastening plasterboard has its strengths and weaknesses.

• Frameless allows you to save space of the room, but its installation requires smooth wall coatings and installation work is delayed for a long time due to the fact that before further work it is necessary to wait until glue challenges.
• Frame mount makes it easy to install thermal insulation and communication, but it is necessary to install noise insulation, and be reeling, albeit slightly, the size of the room.

Important!
With a frame method of mounting the stands of walls under the wiring, it is possible to avoid. That is, dust with work almost will not be.

Plasterboard not only leveled walls. When redeveloping the premises of the partition from GCL - the option is optimal. They are light, easy to use and them can be lining anything.

Articles on the topic:

Wooden base of plasterboard partitions

Those who, after installing partitions, want to live in comfort, with good sound insulation, and those for whom one of the main parameters is the environmental safety of the room - make a solution to make a frame for drywall from a tree.

In order to extend the life of the structure, to the choice of wooden framework parts worth come up with all seriousness.

• The transverse dimensions of the selected parts for vertical racks should not be less in cross section than 40x70 mm, horizontal - 30x50 mm.
• All wooden slats are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic - in order to protect against insects, and a mixture that gives the design of fire safety.

Important!
This procedure is necessary that will help you save in the future on repair.

• The frame is made of coniferous trees. The humidity of the wooden parts should not exceed 15%.

For your information!
Design requirements - the first fireproof group.

Tools for work

In order to perform work on the manufacture of a frame, you must have such tools at hand:

• Drill.
• Saw or hacksaw.

• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver.
• Level.
• Mounting dowels.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Metal corners.

Making partitions in the apartment

To make a wooden frame for drywall, you must first prepare the accurate drawing in which the places of all doorways will be indicated.

• When calculating the stiffness of the structure, it is required to take into account the number of horizontal elements.
• The required number of plasterboard sheets is calculated.
• The body of the partition is assembled. Mounting begins with supporting bars strapping. Fixing to the floor and the ceiling are produced by self-draws and dowels.

• Vertical struts are installed.
• Horizontal supporting rails are fixed between vertical racks.

The cross section of the timber of these rails is allowed less in size than the racks, but still, at least 30x50 mm.

Important!
Leafs of plasterboard when firing must be shifted in relation to each other on its opposite walls.

• On the partition mounted on one side, the insulation is installed, and it is possible to have a dilated wiring.
• The trim starts from the side with which the insulation is fixed.

Installing the insulation is needed to reduce the sound permeability of the structure.

Mates from mineral fiber, polyfoam of various density or polystyrene foaming are used as insulation. Each of them has their own advantages and disadvantages, and the solution, which insulation apply, depends on the purpose of the premises.

Note!
Insulating materials from mineral wool, such as basalt or dolomite fiber, provide additional protection for the design of moisture and lower the fire hazard of the room.

The length of metal dowels for drywall, with which the insulation is fixed, should be at least 25-30 mm. Otherwise, the design will be unreliable and short-lived.

Wooden frame for wall sheat

It is advisable to install plasterboard on a wooden frame when wearing walls in case of the height of their more than three meters or walls have significant roughness and poor-quality plastering.

• The wall markup is marked.
• Dangerous places are revealed with fastening plaster and irregularities.
• A doomle is installed in accordance with the measurements made, starting with a horizontal bar, which is fixed on the floor.

• A horizontal bruster is mounted vertical rails with an indent of 10 mm from the edge of the crate. The step between them is accepted 600 mm.
• After the verticality of the design is verified by a plumb (level), the second horizontal bar is fixed on the ceiling, to which vertical rails are attached.
• The alignment of the design on the uneven floor under the horizontal bar is carried out using a lining of screaming of chipboard or wood remaining from the rails.

Advice:

• In order not to make cuts in the drywall in the manufacture of crates near door or window openings, vertical rails shifted.
• During the subsequent sheaving sheets of joints over window or doorways should not be.

Install plasterboard on a wood frame with your own hands is not difficult, even in the absence of a partner. Even easier, if the floors are smooth, the process of such installation will not be difficult.

There are several ways to create smooth walls and ceilings in the interior. When one of them is fixed plasterboard on a wooden frame. It is made of pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which should correspond to future loads. To create a septum with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm timber is suitable.

The bars for the frame for plasterboard are performed from spruce or pine trees and are thoroughly dried and processed.

Requirements for sawn timber used when creating a crate

The bar must be carefully checked. It can be weakly yellow or light brown without black or blue spots. Each item should have the right geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and rectinity deviations.

In construction and finishing works, it is recommended to use wood with a humidity of about 15%. It is impossible to check it yourself, so when the material is selected, you just need to make sure your hand touch, that it is not wet. Before installation, it is desirable for a few days to hold the bars indoors where they will be installed.

To protect against biological rotting, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compositions. You can use ready-made mixtures for internal works or independently prepare a 4% sodium fluoride solution by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to brush bars in several passes and give the material well dry.

Tools and Materials for Mounting Wooden Frame

Master starting to mount a wooden frame for drywall must have at hand:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• a hammer;
• construction level or plumbing;
• coated thread;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screw;
• dowels, anchor, brackets or anchor plates;
• steel corners or mounting plates.

In the process of creating a septum, except for bars, the sheets of HCL, mineral wool, primer, putty and finishing materials will be required.

Application markup

Before starting to make a wooden frame for plasterboard, it is necessary to determine the plane in which it will be installed and designate the lines of its intersection with floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember the thickness of the GLC and take it into account when applying markup.

The starting point is chosen on the shella of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached to her plumb, find the corresponding mark near the floor. Both dots connect the vertical straight line. Plasterboard sheets are manufactured with sufficient accuracy to use them to determine the direct angle. To do this, apply the GLC an angle to the mark on the floor with a narrow side close to the wall. Continuing perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the following mark. Using a plumb or level rising to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines with a coated thread or pencil with a ruler.

Montage of wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is the bars located along its perimeter. They are attached according to the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame from the support bar is beginning, which is attached to the floor with a self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors depending on the base material. If the partition is a doorway, two vehicles are taken away from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the sheets of plasterboard are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets were in the middle of the bar.

In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then set vertical racks in the central part of the frame. Start with bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm more exterior size of the door frame.

Racks are installed strictly vertically ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling frame brushes. The mount is made by self-pressing with the use of steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure the reliability of communication. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm. The racks are connected by a horizontal jumper.

Between the opening and walls evenly with increments of 40 - 60 cm put another required number of racks. For large sizes of the partition, it will have to be closed with several GLC sheets. Plasterboard plasterboard on wooden rails so that the place of the joint of two sheets accounted for exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of the racks is made taking into account the future cutting and installation of HCL.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is larger than the leaf of the plasterboard, the horizontal bars are fixed on the place of the joint of the first and second row.

Frame covering sheets of GLK and finishing work

Installation of HCL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom angle of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, we use screws on a 35 mm tree. They are installed in increasing to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the screws of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality wall decoration.

If it is necessary, cutting plasterboard is cut off with a construction knife, followed by dummy at the place of the cut. The sheets are kept together with the factory edges to each other, and the cropped edges draw up to walls and ceiling.

After installing the GLC on one side of the partition, its internal space for noise insulation is filled with mineral wool briquettes, foam or polystyrene foam. Electrical and informational cables are paved protected from damage to corrugated tubes. Then the reverse side of the wall is then trimmed.

After the skeleton of the frame of the skeleton, it is necessary to progress, and then the joints and hats of the screws are well covered.

Mounted plasterboard sheets are handled by primer. After its drying, all the joints and hats of the self-tapping screws are closed with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely smooth surface is obtained. In two days, it is once again stung and glued wallpaper, ceramic tiles or cause any other type of finishing finish.

Overlooking Snowless Wall Plasterton and Ceiling

If the size of the room allows part of the space to take plasterboard, it is possible to close the uneven walls and the ceiling with it. To do this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When the wall is trimmed, it is necessary to repeat all the operations described for the mounting of the jumper by setting the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take the bars and rakes of a smaller cross section, since they additionally can be attached by brackets or anchor plates to the wall closed.

Some masters collect a frame on the smooth floor, and then expose it to the right place and secure. All cavities between bars are filled with thermal insulating materials. Install plasterboard on the rail, trying to prevent the presence of joints over the door and window openings, because there will be no support vertical racks.

When installing the GLC on the ceiling, the frames frame are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and on the same level. After that, an inner lamp is performed with fixing it to extreme bars and to ceiling plates. Ceiling drywall has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install it.

Wooden ceiling can be perfectly seen with drywall. This finish is not only very beautiful. The technology according to which the mounting of plasterboard is carried out to the wooden ceiling or to the ceiling on the metal profile allows you to create multi-level ceilings that will be decorated with various borders or other embossed elements.

In addition, this ceiling is easily covered, it can be embedded in it, and glued with stylish stucco on its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe perfectly, and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Plasterboard is a modern environmentally friendly material that allows you to create with the interior in the house of wonders.

Methods for mounting drywall to the ceiling of wood

Installation of drywall is most relevant in the case when the need arises in the facing of a very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms in which the height is three or more than a meter.

To date, there are several ways to fasten the plasterboard to the wooden ceiling.

Namely:

1. On adhesive materials (special glues for drywall);
2. On wooden slats-profiles;
3. On metal.

Plasterboard in very rare cases is attached to the adhesive material directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly smooth. In addition, this method is not practical, since the likelihood is that GLC (plasterboard sheets) is saved or will disappear.

Therefore, we will not pay special attention in this article.

Options are most often used using a specially prepared framework. And then consider in detail how to enhance drywall to the ceiling and the manufacturing technology of carcases.

Wooden Rail Caracas

Such a frame allows you to hide all sorts of faults of the ceiling, while, without sacrificing the height of the room. Plasterboard on wood rails is more preferable if you need to mount a simple single-level ceiling. This is a cheaper way than using a metal frame.

However, only high-quality, excellently dried in the chamber Bruks and Rakes, will be suitable for the frame, which will not be able to withstand a decent load for many years.

• Before starting to mount work, you need to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling. It is from it that we are marking the design position of the carcass: retreat 5 cm, and with the help of the level of the smooth horizontal line throughout the perimeter of the room. If you do this work correctly, then the end point will coincide with the initial one.
• Further on this horizontal throughout the perimeter with the help of self-tapping screws fix the rail.

Please note: how correctly you will calculate and design the framework, will deliver the success of all subsequent work!

• Next, fix the bases to the surface of the ceiling with such a step, which will ensure the reliability of the fastening of the system. The recommended distance between the bases of the foundation, located in parallel, should not be greater than 0.8m.
• In the perpendicular direction to them, the carrier strips, which will be the basis for which the drywall will subsequently can be used. In the event that you have a small ceiling area, it is enough to be a monosular frame, in which the target wooden bars to the ceiling will simultaneously serve as supporting GLCs. Of course, the pulling step of the bars in such a frame will decrease and will be about 0.5 m.

Installation of a wooden frame and drywall

• Fastening the bars to the ceiling produce self-stakes on a dowel with a fastening step 0.8m. In the case of a two-layer trim, the step is reduced, because It will increase twice the weight of the binder. Points of fastening the bars, located next door should not be on one straight line. They need to alternate chess order.
  Installation of drywall on a wooden ceiling is made with a step of fastening the sheet on a frame of 0.15m in the case of a single-layer binder. The mounting step for the first layer can be made of 0.5 m with a binder in two layers. When fixing the second pavement layer, the pitch of the screws will be 0.15 m.

Note!
The length of self-samples is 25 - 35 mm. This screw size is perfect for a 12.5 mm drywall thickness.
In case the thickness of the sheets is different, you need to pick fasteners for reasons of the depth of entering the material.

Mounting bars to the ceiling

Broas Basics to a wooden ceiling can be carried out on straight metal suspensions (brackets) or metal adjustable with wire suspension. Due to the use of direct suspensions, you can increase the distance between the GKK and the surface of the ceiling.

Brackets are fastened to bruster from two sides by self-draws. The brackets themselves shoot to the bearing ceiling and flexing in the width of the bar at right angles. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and GCL, there is a D111 system (suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).

Plasterboard on a wooden ceiling on a frame of wood allows the use of wire suspensions. The elements of the framework on the suspensions are held by special clamps that allow quick installation and the necessary height adjustment.

Metal carcass

How to fix plasterboard to using a metal frame (see also)? In fact, it is not so difficult if there is a detailed instruction. Metal profile is a more reliable and durable material for creating a frame of HCL, rather than a tree.

Before installing the frame, you need to decide which the height of the plasterboard ceiling will be omitted. Between the GLC and the ceiling, not only lamps can be installed, but also different communications (ventilation, water supply and wiring).

You will need 2 people to install the frame and support sheets. One sheet of plasterboard weighs about 15 kg.

What is the framework of

Metal frame consists of guide profiles. They keep the main frame of the whole design and the rack profiles are fixed to them, which is mounted by plasterboard. The cross section of profiles has a P-shaped form. And the rack profiles are similar to the letter "C".

Profiles length is always three meters. If you need to increase the length of the profiles, use the butt connections that insert the inside and secure the self-drawing. With the help of suspensions, you can correct and level the plane of even the crooked ceiling itself and give the frame design relative rigidity.

In any construction store you can find very convenient direct suspensions, which will be used in operation. Other types of suspensions are hard enough to regulate, as well as they are quite unreliable due to the marriage manufactured.

The rack profiles perpendicularly can be fastened with cruciform connections that are still called crabs. If you are going to do the installation of the ceiling in a small room, then it does not take away from you a lot of time and effort, but it is better to still find yourself an assistant.

Montage Karcasa

To install the frame and Glk, you will need such tools:

• pistol for clogging dowels;
• knife for cutting sheets of plasterboard;
• flomaster;
• level (2-3 meters);
• drill;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws on plasterboard, metal and dowels;
• metal profiles;
• plasterboard panels.

First you need to determine where the lowest angle is in your room, and then measure the distance to which the framework needs to be omitted from it. After that, the level and pencil read the horizontal line around the perimeter and focus clearly on it when fixing the guide profiles.

These profiles, depending on the type of surface, fix it either with dowels or self-drawing in 20-30 cm increments - the main thing is that it is tight and securely attached to the wall.

After that, go to the installation of rack profiles. In the event that the width of your room is about 2.5 meters, it will be quite a special metal frame that is sufficient to rigidity. Assembling such a frame is very simple.

It is necessary to simply attach the rack profile to the wall and make them up. It is necessary to secure them at a distance of 0.4 meters, using the drawn lines located on the side walls.

Next, cutting the rack profiles along the length of the metal and insert them into the guides, and then restore the resulting design by self-draws. To give it hardness, you need to take advantage of special suspensions.

They need to be fixed to the ceiling with nail dowels with a step of 60-80 centimeters, and then further improve strength with self-tapping screws. If you do not use the suspensions, the frame in the end will not be secured securely, and after putty and paint all the joints will be cracked.

In the event that you will install a chandelier or a ceiling, then you need to mount the mortgages, as the plasterboard sheets are not able to hold the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles into the frame for the future place of the lighting device.

After you mounted a frame, you can start the GLK installation. To do this, you will need: the stationery knife and felt-tipper. We make markup on the sheet of drywall in the size of the room and cut off.

Then secure to the ceiling of the GLC using the screws with a step of 25 cm. Muffle them easier to a special screwdriver.

The heads of fastening screws are slightly drowned in the plasterboard panel. The next step is to glue the sawmill on the joints (in order to avoid cracks), then primer and putty.