Laying tiles in the bathroom. Types of layouts of tiles, instructions for proper preparation of the bathroom and styling with your own hands

To finish the bathroom used to be usually invited to the tiled masters. And the main reason was in the inability to prepare the composition independently, which would reliably fix the tile to the surface - the usual cement-sandy solution does not cope with this task. With the advent of modern building mixtures, this problem disappeared, but the rest of the nuances remained how to glue the tile in the bathroom on the wall. And about this speech below.

Before starting work, you need to stock materials.
Although the excessive margin is not needed - extra spending.

And if you can always buy an adhesive mixture, then with a tile, when it is not enough, it will not work out - the same model, but already from another party, it will be a little different.

Easy settlement method

It is suitable if the tile of standard formats of one color and drawing are used:
Determine the area of \u200b\u200beach wall and simpleness, summarize the results.
From this value, the openings and those places that will not be placed in a tile (for example, for the bathroom) are deducted from this.
The result is divided into one tile area, which is calculated or taken from the information on the package. Rounded into the biggest.
Add stock for a climb and marriage, which depends on the styling pattern: "seam in seam" or "into the dressing" - 10%, "Diagonal" - 15%.

Plain. It is used for combined cladding. The difference from the previous one is that each site is calculated separately taking into account the laying scheme and its "percent" on trimming.

Complicated way

In this case, the calculation is also carried out individually for each surface. First, determine how many tiles will fall in width and height, rounded each value in the most side and prolonged.
Then consider the possibility of using cropped elements in neighboring sites, and take into account it. The method makes it possible to reduce the "stock" on trimming and marriage up to 5%. It is also used when calculating large-format tiles - porcelain stoneware for walls in the bathroom.

Surface preparation

The most difficult option is the overhaul of the bathroom.
The correct is the laying of tiles in the bathroom, when there is no plumbing, and the walls are fully cleaned from the old cladding.

The full range of events looks like this:

• dismantle all plumbing equipment;
• remove the attachment assemblies and brackets of attachments - washbasin, shower, heated towel rail, furniture;
• remove old cladding;
• align the surface;
• make waterproofing;
• apply primer.

With dismantling of equipment and attachment nodes, everything is simple. Plumbing and furniture, if they are not going to change, you can safely remove. And fixing knots buy new ones.

The paint is written either by hand, or using an angular grinding machine with an appropriate nozzle - depends on the adhesion strength with the base. The tile is knocked down with a chisel and a hammer or a perforator with a nozzle "blade".
But the remaining stages require decryption.

Surface leveling

Walls of the bathroom can be from different building materials.
In panel and monolithic houses, it is quite often one of them can be carrier, and as a rule, it stands in terms of level, and the surface is smooth. If the tiles are formed when the tiles are formed, this is normal - they are recommended to do them in any case to "increase" the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with a smooth concrete surface in which low adhesion with any building solutions.
Interior and inter-weltered brick partitions must be aligned. Often they have small deviations from the level, not to mention the slots in the masonry seams. And if there is an old plaster under tile or paint, it is better to clean it simultaneously with the removal of the previous finish and apply a new leveling layer.

The technology of alignment of walls of plasterboard walls is also distributed. There are two options for using this material - installation on the crate and frameless method.
In the first case, the framework of the galvanized profile is fixed to the walls, which is covered with moisture-resistant GLC. The method is relevant if you need to perform a hidden wiring of water pipes and sewage or install the installation toilet. The only drawback is a loss of useful volume.
The frameless method is to fasten the plasterboard plates on the walls with an adhesive solution. The inner volume of the bathroom is practically not reduced, but for pipes and installations it is necessary to arrange boxes that change the geometry of the walls. And putting the tile on them will be much more complicated.

In the walls of the foam concrete, gas-silicate or puzzle blocks, the surface of the drywall surface is almost perfect. Therefore, for them, the entire preparatory stage is to perform waterproofing and priming.

Waterproofing of walls

This is a mandatory preparatory stage before walking the tile in the bathroom - the tile and moisture-resistant stood of the seams are not sufficient protection of the design of the walls from wetting in conditions of high humidity and direct contact with water.
There are several zones where water waterproofing is done regardless of their materials:
A strip along the floor throughout the perimeter of the room to a height of 20 cm. And it should be inseparable and a single integer with the floorproofing of the floor.
The most reliable - rolled materials. But the use of coating solutions on a polymer-cement basis is allowed. Before the cooler with a protective solution, the angular seams of the floor and walls are additionally sampled by waterproofing ribbon.

Washbasin zone. This site is protected by the coating waterproofing of the band, ranging from the floor, to a height of 50 cm above the plane of the bowl, with the borders at least 50 cm in each direction from its sides. Bath without a shower headset. In this case, the same rules apply as for a washbasin. Bath with shower. The usual recommendation is the upper limit of waterproofing should be 50 cm above the loader of the watering can, side - similar to previous options.

Shower cabin. In the bathrooms with standard ceilings (not higher than 3 m), the coating is carried out before the overlap within the borders of the entire cab. Plus, the mandatory sizing of the waterproof ribbon of the walls of the walls to the pallet.
If the bathroom is completely covered with plasterboard, it is recommended to carry out waterproofing of all walls. This approach is justified at least that the tile should be put on the cardboard (in fact, the paper), but on the layer of putty, and the polymer-cement solution will immediately perform both functions.

Laying tiles on the wall in the bathroom

In the ideal case, it would be possible to first lay the tile on the floor, and then, "relying" on it as horizontal level, start uploading the walls from the first row. In practice, it does not happen, so they come differently. The laying rule from professionals can be formulated as follows - the cladding starts from the walls, and then go to the floor.

Phased it looks like this:

Finishing works are beginning, provided that all preparatory work on the floor is also completed, the surface is aligned in terms of the level and integrated waterproofing. It is estimated to estimate which height will be at the finishing floor covering, taking into account the thickness of the layer of the solution.

From it, they beat off the horizontal level for the second row - the corresponding size of the tile (if it is not square) plus the thickness of the dividing "cross". Fasten along the line to the wall resistant (or starting) bar, and leaning on it begin to lay out the second row. The glue is applied by a toothed spatula on the wall at once for several tiles with a slight margin in height.

Then wet the water purple surface of the tile or immersing in water (depends on the characteristics of ceramics). Apply the solution and distribute it with a thin layer. Apply the tile in place and slightly pressed.
Repeat the wetting procedure and applying glue for the next item. Install it next to the first tiles through a couple of remote crossing in the vertical seam.

Put the entire second row, removing excessive solutions. Similarly, the tiles are placed on the rest of the wall, setting remote crossbars into the vertical and in horizontal seams. The first row is laid last, after the walls are completed, the installation of the floor covering was carried out and the starting plank is dismantled.

Note. Another advantage of the start from the second row is the fact that the wall tile, as thinner, is easier to trim than the outdoor. Of course, if you put no porcelain stoneware on the walls in the bathroom.

But even in this case, if the lower edge of the first row turns out to be slightly uneven, it will be drawn down. And the cut-made edge of the floor tile will be "hidden" under the lining of the wall.

Put

This is the finishing finish stage, which is carried out after drying the glue:
Remove remote crossings from the seams.
Prepare a solution.
Lay a portion to the grater. With force, it is rubbed, holding a soft spatula of the diagram towards the seam and controlling its filling.

Clean the tile from the grout. If it is epoxy, then immediately. And on a cement basis - when she already "grabbed", but did not have time to dry.
After drying the seams, cement grout, if it is cooked independently, covered with sealant. Factory mixtures are usually in the composition of hydrophobic additives.

The tile is traditionally the most popular material for decorating bathrooms. The tile successfully protects the walls from the spray of water, it is easy to clean, distinguished by high durability. Modern production products have excellent decorative characteristics and a wide range of color solutions. On your own, put the tile in the bathroom is not as difficult as it may seem. After finishing on your own, you can save significantly.

The choice of tile varieties in stores is huge. The buyer may choose not only the desired color or drawing, but also the shape, texture, relief. All these parameters depend mainly on individual preferences.

However, there are characteristics that directly depends the process of laying and features of subsequent operation of the coating:

1. The size. Industry produces a tile of a wide variety of sizes. There are also very small tiles, and massive elements. The impression is that the small tile is stacked, deceptively. The size is less, the longer the laying process will last. In addition, with a decrease in size increases the likelihood of deviations from flatness, which can easily spoil the impression from the updated interior. Too large elements require the availability of work experience. Tile with large dimensions is quite easy to split, and this will require an additional visit to the store to buy a product for replacement. Do not forget that the desired model at the most inopportune moment may disappear from the sale. It is recommended to give preference to the cafes of medium sizes with the parties from 400 to 600 mm. It is such tiles that are easiest to transfer and labeled independently.
2. Surface roughness. For lining the wall, the surface of the tile does not play a special role. One can only remember that the departure for smooth cafeter is easier. Otherwise, things are with an outdoor coating. Quite often in the bathroom you can find a distinguished water. The wet floor can be very slippery, which sometimes leads to serious injury at a random drop. You can even slip on a slightly wet floor. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to choose only a tile with a high roughness of the facial surface. Such a precaution will significantly increase the safety of the use of the bathroom.
3. Color and drawing. These characteristics appeared in the list it is not by chance that the complexity of work depends on them. Place the tile without a picture is much easier, since there is no need to customize the pattern, passing from one tile to another. The decorated tile in the bathroom is correctly spreading much more difficult. Do not give extra hassle small drawings or abstract divorces.

To make a decision, which is better to put the tile in the bathroom, follows the features of the operation and experience of repair work.

Preparation of walls

Qualitatively prepare the surface is no less important than putting the tile in the bathroom correctly. Most often the walls have minimal initial processing. If an old coating is applied, it should be deleted. Next you need to stack the surface. At the same time, wall alignment can be held. If there are serious defects, they should be embedded in advance. Stuccoings on a polymer and cement based resistance to high humidity.

In practice, the following types of plastering mixtures are most often applied:

• Mineral. It is a mixture based on lime and cement. Moisture resistance is achieved by introducing a mixture of special hydraulic components. The lack of composition lies in low elasticity and tendency to form cracks from vibration loads.
• Acrylic. Refers to the polymer group. It consists of synthetic resins and fillers in the form of chopped glass and marble. It is characterized by extremely high moisture resistance and vapor insulation. Has a long service life.
• Silicone. It has silicone resins. A distinctive feature is extremely high durability. Lifetime exceeds 60 years.
• Silicate. The main component uses potassium glass, which is called liquid. The surface acquires good water repellent properties, a rack to the appearance of mold.

Many modern plaster mixes have good decorative properties. Under the laying of the tile, it is quite possible to purchase a budget composition with low decorative characteristics. If the walls are rather smooth, you can save on the plaster and cover the concrete surfaces with a special moisture-resistant impregnation, but this option is less preferable.

In the plastered walls are applied to the primer. Such treatment increases adhesion, as a result of which the facing will keep more reliably. It is necessary to trace the walls before priming are dry and purified from pollution.

If there is partitions from drywall, a special primer mixture containing quartz sand should be used to process them. This additive makes the surface more roughly, due to which the best grip with facing materials is ensured. In the process of applying, the composition must be intermitted periodically to prevent the sand sediment on the bottom of the tank. It is recommended to apply such a primer with a brush, but not in one direction, but in multidirectional movements in chaotic order. This method increases the strength of the future adhesive connection.

Drawing up drawing

Simultaneously with the preparation of the walls, you can start designing the tile location scheme. The drawing of the room should be performed and decide on the dimensions of the elements. The scheme drawn on paper will help to understand from which angle it is better to start laying, how the drawing will be located, where the trimming of the tiles under the bathroom dimensions will be required.

When buying ceramic tiles, do not forget that the material should be resistant to temperature and high humidity drops. The resistance to the effects of abrasive and chemical cleaning agents is also important.

If the experience in laying the tile is small, you can pre-decompose the prepared tiles on the floor. This will help determine the location of the pattern and will save from possible errors in accommodation. It is advisable to note the position of decorative elements in the drawing.

Performing markup

Most often, the tile laying leads from the floor, starting from the second row. You can start with the third or fourth, if it is more convenient to poison the rows with already installed elements, such as bathroom or sink. It is important to remember that the lowest row of tiles in the bathroom places last. This is done in order to be able to accurately cut the tiles and docile them with floorpad. This is especially important if the floor is also assumed to put the tile, and not to string the linoleum.

Wall markup is made according to the prepared pre-drawing. After determining the lower boundary of the first layer of masonry, it is necessary to cut the horizontal line along the wall. It is very convenient to do this with a laser level. If it is not, you will have to use ordinary, but the time will be much more spent.

On the bottom of the boundary line, the metal corner must be rigidly fixed. It will perform the function of the stop and will allow you to more accurately set the items vertically. Further markup is not necessary, since each subsequent row will become the base.

Stacking process

It is necessary to prepare tile glue. You can use any moisture-resistant variety. Depending on the dimensions of the tile, it is recommended to give preference to one of the following types:

• Universal. Used for mounting a tile with dimensions up to 300 mm. The most common type of adhesive composition.
• Reinforced. It is used for fastening tiles with dimensions exceeding 300 mm. It is characterized by increased adhesion, which increases the strength of the connection. Less susceptible to increased static and dynamic loads.

The composition must be dissolved with water according to the instructions, until a thick consistency is obtained. Apply adhesive is recommended by a special gear spatula.

For gluing, you should take the required amount of glue with a spatula and distribute on the wall area. Also glue should be applied to the prepared tile. For fixation, you should press the element to the wall with the effort. Additionally, you can check the correct installation using the level.

Interputer seams are aligned with extext crosses. When the tile sizes up to 450 mm, the width of the seam is made equal to 1-2 mm. When using larger elements, the gap is taken equal to 3-4 mm.

Manufacture of holes

When laying tiles in the bathroom, it is inevitably the need for drilling holes for pipes, cranes, a rosette. Diamond crowns are most conveniently used as a tool. It is better to prerete in advance to conversion and clarify the diameter of sanitary pipes so as not to be mistaken with the choice of diameters of crowns.

Drilling is made according to a predetermined markup. The tile for this is convenient to arrange on a substrate from a tree or other material. Finished tiles with holes are glued to the wall.

If the hole turns out between the tiles, it is desirable to arrange the center of it in the middle of the seam. The hole can be performed using a corner-slope with a stone disk. In the same way, large openings under the ventilation canal are performed.

Longitudinal cutting

To fill the angular sections of the wall, the tile trimming may be required. In a single case, an ordinary glass cutter could be used for this purpose. However, with a regular repetition of this work, a special hand-made slab should be needed. It will allow steam to be accurately, avoid the rocking of the edges of the coating and minimizes the number of broken tiles.

To perform the recent, the tile is clamped in the device housing. The cutting roller should be at the level of the marked line of the cut. It should be moved along the entire length of the product. The cut edge is separated independently under the action of its own weight or special separator.

Outdoor corners and grout of seams

Some masters seek to simplify their work and hide an uneven joint of tiles in outer corners with decorative corners. This is a clear sign of poor-quality work. To obtain a beautiful, smooth and neat junction of mating tiles in the outer corners, it is required to trim the face of a tile at an angle of 45 degrees.

Usually this operation is carried out on a special machine. However, many modern electric stovetures allow you to set the angle of inclination of the cutting element. In the presence of a certain experience, you can perform such work with the help of a corner machine.

The final stage of the facing will be putting the intercine seams. Before carrying out work, it is recommended to remove extender crossbars and clean the gaps from glue.

After that, they start kneading the grouts. The applied composition follows a cloud spatula. This will give the seam accuracy. Excess grout can be removed after its partial solidification with the help of a wet sponge.

The tile in the bathroom is one of the most practical and durable finishing materials. The choice of surfaces and coloring options is unusually large. This creates a wide field for designer experiments. If you follow the advice of professionals, it is quite simple to learn how to put the tile in the bathroom correctly. This approach will significantly save when performing finishing works. Compliance with technology, thorough preparation of the surface of the walls and the use of high-quality glue will allow facing to serve many decades.

August 18, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and outer decoration (plaster, shtclowing, tile, plasterboard, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrician, ordinary lining and expansion of balconies. That is, repairs in the apartment or house was turned "turnkey" with all the necessary types of work.

I will start with the fact that laying the tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is a rather complicated and multi-stage case, with this a lot of other works are interconnected, without which the finish loses its meaning. There is a certain installation order, but in different masters it can differ slightly, since not all tilers can be plumbing and electricians.

I will not modify - I confess, I, for example, I myself perform all these works and will be happy to share with you with your brilliant developments. It is useful to you and video in this article for a more visual understanding of the process.

Finishing bathroom cafenel

Preparatory work

In general, preparation includes several types of work, but I will not break them on the items, since in any case they are performed simultaneously. That is, if you work with an assistant, then at each stage you both will be occupied by our specific business.

Tile laying technology in the bathroom does not necessarily imply a dismantling of old plaster. In some cases, the tiles are put on G Clac or on GVLV, which implies a frame finish.

Consequently, the old layer, if it is well held, can remain intact. However, if you have to do it, then:

• it is more convenient to shoot down the old layer using a perforator with a chisel, if you put it on the shock mode (icon with a hammer), it is especially good for strong cement-sand plasters;
• but, as a rule, the rule has exceptions - it happens that the layer is very weak (builders realized cement for their own needs) and it literally departs to the formation - in this case, the puncher there is nothing to
• in addition to the perforator, such tools are also used as an ax, scrap, butard or chisel with a hammer. And even though manual dismantling is harder, it still takes place;

• the concrete slabs and overlaps did not apply cement-sandy solution - there were usually lime mixtures, which can be removed by a spatula;
• only here on the top photo you see dismantling the old Soviet spatula - there is thick and solid metal. Nowadays, fine and flexible steel spatulas produce, so for convenience and efficiency, the blade is better to shorten up to 3-4 cm;
• in the same way, with the help of a spatula, you can remove old wallpapers, only to wet them first;
• after dismantling the plaster, you need to clear the surface with a broom or a brush well, and for brickwork you need to deepen the extender, at least 5-10 mm for a layer hook;
• but, as you understand, such a process will take too much time and therefore modern masters (I am including) prefer to open the wall with paint primer - it creates good adhesion;
• but if you do not have masonry, but concrete slabs, then the painting primer will turn the surface into the glass to which no plaster arrives. In such cases, "concrete contact" should be used.

Alternatively, if there is no "concrete contact" (its price is much higher than primer) on a concrete slab you can apply a thin layer of tiled glue with a trough with teeth no more than 5 mm. After drying the glue, the cement-sandy solution is perfectly located on it.

When we have excellent plaster, on top of which you can apply a new layer or put the tile on it. But the problem is that it is covered with some paintwork - in this case, you will have to remove these LKM with your own hands.

For this, various devices are applied:

• many for some reason are preferred to remove manual metal brushes or they can be in the form of nozzles on an electric drill or a grinder;
• here you can give any tips, but the brush in any case will be clogged - it is very inconvenient, moreover, he adversely affects the psyche, as it annoys the nervous system;
• it is best to use this tool that you see on the top photo, especially since it can be done yourself;
• to do this, you will need a bolt with a length of 70-100 mm, a diameter of 8-12 mm, with a thread for the head, as well as two nuts and 3-55 pieces of chains in several links (depending on the value);
• you put on these chains on the bolt, clamp the nut and lock nut and insert into the cartridge - your "krakomotbivalka" is ready for use.

In order for pieces of paints and varnish materials to fly to your head, become the right side to the wall. The cartridge rotates clockwise and the blow will be applied from top to bottom, therefore, knocked out the fragments will not be flown upwards, and your head will remain integer and unharmed.

If the work is made in an apartment building, you still wait for dismantling or replacing the riser:

• however, the riser in some cases still has to be changed. And it's good when all neighbors agree to this and can be installed on top of bottom. But in 98% of cases it does not happen - you need to do insert;
• let's deal with what you need to do for this. First of all, we cut the riser under the ceiling, leaving a piece of 25-40 cm there, and cut out another piece of several centimeters so that the pipe can move;
• then, neatly loosening the riser, take it out along with the fan tee and clean the socket at the bottom;
• insert a new tee of plastic, and at the top we wear a plastic adapter with cast iron on PVC;
• then we insert a piece of the pipe without a squabble into the fan fitting and connect it at the top with the adapter with the coupling.

Sewerage and plumbing

So, we have prepared a platform, and now I would like to decide where to start finishing works. But before them, alas, far away! First you need to dilute and hide the sewer with the water supply.

I will not tell in detail about the installation of these pipelines, and the layout of the premises is different - I will explain how to do it in principle. And begin with.

But since all pipes usually pass around, then in the case of the plaster for them there is a common shit. And where it will be necessary, such a groove is made separately.

Table of required slopes

When laying a sewage, it is necessary to observe certain slopes - they are listed in the table, but it is not always possible to put it in the stroke. Nevertheless, the requirements for slopes do not change.

If the pipeline is mounted directly over the floor or wall, then it hides in the box that makes from GVL or GKL. Most often, this situation occurs in apartment buildings, where the riser passes either in a niche or straight on the wall.

The sewage assembly occurs like a children's designer: each pipe is inserted into the socket of another pipe and is fixed with a rubber sealing ring. By bathrooms, the sequence you will install yourself, especially in the private sector.

But the toilet in 99% of cases will be at a riser or withdrawal to the street. If it is difficult to make it difficult, then you should not take "for strength" - just lubricate the rubber seal with any liquid detergent, and it will easily succumb to you.

Pipe fixation principle: brown color designated wall, gray - shtroba, red - pipes, white - suspensions, cross - screws

Hot and cold water pipes are usually made from polypropylene. The material is welded with various fittings (tees, corners, american and the like).

For fixing pipes in the strokes is the most convenient use of metal ribbon suspensions with perforation (initially they were intended for mounting frames for plasterboard structures). The pipes are simply pressed them in the groove and then plastering - it is very convenient and quite reliably.

A very important point is the withdrawal of fittings under the mixer, under the sink and under the toilet tank. After installing the tile on the wall, it should ideally get flush with it, although it is completely allowed ± 5 mm.

Therefore, in order to calculate them correctly, do not hurry - first install the beacons or the frame for plasterboard and only you can correctly calculate the exit. Under the mixer, it is best to use a missing bar, but if there is no one, then the distance between the centers of the mixers should be 150 mm, and they should be taken strictly at right angles.

Wiring wiring

Before installing beacons under the plaster, you should take care of the wiring of electrical wires. They can be of two types - under lighting and under household appliances and sockets.

So, if you have enough copper with a cross section of 1-1.5 mm2, then for the washing machine of the machine or the electric boiler, you will need 2-2.5 mm2. The same section will need for sockets (do not count on the fact that there will be no load).

All wiring should pass to the power meter through AZU. Just do not install these automata in the bathroom - they should be outwarded, and best, to mount under the counter.

Little plaster

If you are waiting for independent work, then the lighthouses will also need to choose yourself. Their optimal parameters are 3000 mm or 4000 mm long and from 6 mm to 20 mm thick (from the sole to the top of the ridge).

Of course, than a profile thicker, he is hard, but I prefer 6 mm beacons - they are much easier to level, and they take less space (on the walls the wall does not need to increase the layer thickness). The length should be chosen at the height of the room or on the floor area (ceiling) - depending on where you will be mounted.

If on the wall (floor, ceiling) in one interval you need to install more than two profiles, it is very important to align them so that they constitute a smooth virtual plane. It is possible to achieve this as follows:

• two extreme profiles are exhibited by level and top of them (distance to crest 0.5-1 mm);
• the horizontal threads are stretched along the diagonal, along which the remaining beacons are already exposed.

The principle of installing a frame for plasterboard exactly the same.

The distance between the beacons directly depends on your plaster tool. So, if you have a rule one and a half meters, the step may be no more than 130-135 cm, if two meters, then no more than 170-175 cm and so on.

The profile fixation is carried out on cement-sandy solution - some do it point, but I prefer to mount the beacons as it is shown on the top photo - on a solid path.

1. First, so the profile will stay better.
2. Secondly, it is so easier to level.

After setting the lighthouses, plaster works can be started only the next day - the profile fasteners should be captured. If you hurry, you will eat the rules of beacons during the tightening of the solution.

Plastering work as follows:

• between two lighthouses at an altitude of the meter, a solution is pounce;
• tighten its rule from the bottom up;
• then removed from the tool cut mixture;
• throw the formed fumes and stretched again.

Such passes should be made until a smooth surface is formed, but their number depends largely on how well you sink sand (pebbles turn the surface).

Methods of grouts: A - in a circle, b - in a straight line

The next day or 4-5 hours after plastering the wall (floor) you need to sweep the surface. Some miracle masters do not, but in this case the convenience of laying tiles is lost.

This process occurs with a moistened grain or semi-level. And if any pits are formed, then you can choose from the floor what matured, moisten and labeled in irregularities. You can start laying the tile already the next day, despite the fact that the term of complete drying is three weeks.

The lighting screed is carried out in the same way in another plane, so it's especially nothing to add to me here. Only here to walk along the screed and finish it with tiled with a tile, with your own hands, you can only on the fourth-fifth day, and even more reliable, in a week.

Flashlight framework frame: 1 - Wooden rails; 2 - plumbing pipes; 3 - sewer riser; 4 - water meter

If there is a niche or pipes on the walls on the walls, then you will have to mount the falseland (a frame of 50 × 50 mm rails, like on the top scheme) or a box of metal profiles in combination with CD-UD or CW-UW.

For some reason, many people believe that it is better to put the tile on the GWL or on the GVLV (gypsum fiber plate moisture resistant), made sure that it is not! Such material, although it has increased strength, but the G Clac (plasterboard is moisture-resistant) here quite will be enough.

If you have to close the water meter or shut-off fittings, then do not forget that you need to make a hatch for access. Therefore, in this place you need to strengthen the frame as on the top image.

Laying tiles

Since to lay the tile in the bathroom, you most likely want to smoothly and end up getting a brilliant surface, then the tile itself is quite natural, it should also be smooth. And this should be checked when it is purchased right in the store.

You can do this so - press two tiles face to each other and if there is a gap between them (in the center or from the edge), it means that it is a defective product. After its laying, it will be very noticeable on the plane of the wall surface, floor or ceiling.

To obtain a high-quality plane, tile should be checked for a matching diagonals. Only now the two tiles attached to each other put the end to the table and if one corner is higher than at least per millimeter, it will affect the fixes of the seam, no matter how much you try to uninstall the surface.

Of course, if these errors are small, then after laying a tile, a small marriage will turn the grout. But given the fact that each of us has its own requests, and we achieve the perfect brilliance from work, risk, I think it is not worth it.

Depending on the size, color and geometric shape (square or rectangle), the tile can be laid differently. For example, in such ways, as shown in the circuits at the top.

But, whatever it was, I note - the wall will look much more beautiful if the upper row succeeds in the whole (not curved). In addition, on the wall, floor or ceiling around the edges, it is necessary to install pieces of the same width, therefore, you will have to produce preliminary measurements and calculations.

Installation of tiles on the wall is best starting from the second row, the first is laid after the floor was suspected. It turns out that the wall row of tiles overlaps the floor, so there is no gaps and irregularities.

In order to start laying from the second row, you will need focus, although experienced masters do without it. But if you are still new, then it is best to use any of the plasterboard profiles.

They are perfectly smooth, and you will be able to lay a tile straight on it. In addition, do not forget about the hatch for the water meter and the shut-off reinforcement - the best if it just has to the whole tile, like on the bottom photo.

On the hatch you can install a plastic door, but you can also remove the tile, which will stay on the magnets (they are sold in stores and are intended for this purpose).

Magnets themselves are installed between the tile and plasterboard, and the metal plates are glued with silicone on the door - they must precisely coincide with the magnets on the position. If you wish for a removable tile, you can fasten the furniture handle, although this is not necessarily.

Some masters prefer to smear the glue on the wall and put the tile on the prepared surface - it is correct. For laying, a comb spatula with teeth with a length of 10 mm and a layer after pressing will be not more than 6-7 mm, although if necessary, it can be compressed up to 2 mm.

Personally, I prefer to smear the glue directly on the tile - so glue goes less on the edges, therefore, the seam is cleaned.

Plastic cross, the most popular thickness of which is 3 mm are used to excerct the smooth seam. To adjust the distance (it is necessary, when the diagonal is knocked down) the cross can be inserted with the most tip, turn the plastics (so it turns out thinner) or put it with an edge (so it is thicker).

The mounting tile should be constantly checking the level by vertical and horizontal, as well as apply the level or rule to the plane to level the finish. The next day, pull out all the cross and wipe the surface and the seams from the glue until it is completely duck. After the composition of the composition it will be very difficult.

For the cutting of the tile you will need a tile cargo, the tool is depicted on the top photo. They are electric, and the cut line can be made not only at an angle of 90⁰, but also under the tilt in one or another. But if you do not do the finish professionally, then the electrical device you do not need is enough hand cutter.

Inserting angles - no less important process to achieve a brilliant surface in all respects

In order to close the outer or internal angles, you can buy special plastic tile corners in the store. At the same time, they need to be selected by the thickness of the tile. If you have not done this when installing, you can do it after, and for this buy ordinary plastic corners with a 5 mm shelf and put them on silicone.

And now let's figure it out when the bath is made - before laying the tile or after. The question is logical, and this can be done in any sequence.

Personally, I measure the height and length of the bath and leave this place is empty, like on the top photo, just at the same time I also screw the CD profile on the wall so that the bath lay onto the bath (so reliable). It turns out that the bathroom's sides are inserted under the tile, the junction is climbing, and water never falls into the inner space.

But around the bath you can lay out brickwork and bold it with tiles. You can also buy a special plastic screen where there are rail doors.

If you choose the first option of the bath finishes, then be sure to leave the hatch so that you can get to the siphon if necessary. On the hatch you can install a plastic door or removable tiles on magnets.

Grouting makes a soft rubber spatula. After you proceed about the square meter, go through the seam of your finger without glove. What for? Thus, the seam will succeed a little overwhelmed, and most importantly - smooth.

Out in this way the surface from the grout every 20-30 minutes until she dried. Remember, the dried mixture is very difficult to remove, and at the same time you can damage the glaze of tiles, and it will not shine!

Many owners of apartments and houses try to make repairs independently, without attracting hired specialists. Beginner masters who do not have finishing work experience are needed detailed instructions for the proper laying of tiles in the bathroom with their own hands.

The tile layout is the first, with which are determined after the selection and purchase of the tile. In most collections, ceramics designers are offered options for the location of the main tiles, panels, borders and decors. But each owner seeks to individualize the dwelling, therefore finds its layout options, best suited to this room and its interior.

With the wrong selection of the pattern of the facing coating, the tile laying in the bathroom will be complicated by numerous tile trimming. Newbie can make one mistake: start layout from any of the corners of the room. In this case, the opposite can be segment of a tile, whose width is less than ½ whole tiles. This narrow line will make a disharmony in the design of the bathroom.

Proper layout options:

• The first tile is placed in the middle of the wall. In both directions, the whole elements also establish it until they reach the corners.
• If, with the use of the first method in the corners, narrow trimming remains, in the middle of the walls are stacked not alone, but two nearby tiles. With this layout, it is much more convenient to position the panel or decor lines.
• If there is no possibility to avoid the narrow bands in the corners of the room, choose a picture "Brickwork".
• Also, rows of tiles can be laid with a displacement in each following by 1/3. Such a drawing looks spectacular on large areas.

The layout can be vertical or horizontal. The most acceptable option is chosen on the basis of several criteria:

1. tile sizes;
2. tile pattern;
3. dimensions of the room.

With a horizontal layout, it is easier to avoid numerous trimming of a tile. If there is a protrusion in the bathroom, on which only one tile is fits and there is still a small distance, you need to do as follows: take 2 elements and cut them so that the seam between them take place in the center of the speaker on the wall.

How to put a tile in the bathroom with your own hands

Laying the tiles in the bathroom with their own hands begins with the preparation of the work plan, the calculations of the required amount of materials and the preparation of the tools. It is important to decide when the bath will be installed: before or after laying ceramics on the walls. From this largely depends the complexity of finishing works. Masters recommend mounted sanitary equipment after finishing the finishing work. In order to do everything correctly, focus on further instructions.

Preparation of the room

Installing the tile requires the preparation of the base. Indoors remove all the old finish and dismantle the plumbing. Free the room from garbage. Walls and floors are aligned as much as possible. If there are cracks, a cement-sandy solution is prepared and smeared them. The floor is equalized using special mixtures, which will make it easier for laying outdoor coating. When the mixture is driving, the primer is applied in 1-2 layers.

Preparation for laying tiles can be performed by mounting a wall of plasterboard. This method is beneficial to obtaining a plane to which it is easy and easy to stick. In this case, the consumption of glue will be small, since there is no need for additional alignment.

Calculator Flow Calculator

Product	Glue tiled UNIS 2000 / UNIS 2000 (25 kg) adhesive tiled Unis Plus / Unisa Plus (25 kg) adhesive tiled UNIS XXI / UNIS XXI (25 kg) Adhesive tile Romean Fixator (25 kg) Aligning tile glue Based MastPlix AC12 T (T -12) (25 kg. ) Glue tiled reinforced fixation Gray primary maximplips AC16 (T-16) (25 kg) Tile glue Bases Bazplifts T-10 (25 kg) Tile adhesive Elastic Bases Consplots AC14 (T-14) (25 kg) Tile glue Efficient Base MastPlix AC12 (T-12) Gray (25 kg) Plaster-adhesive mixture Based Kaverspille TS117 (T-117) (25 kg) Tile glue Eco Basic (25 kg) Adhesive for tiles and porcelain stoneware Vetonit Easy Fix / Wisi Fix Fix (25 kg) Adhesive for tile and porcelain stoneware Vetonit Profi Plus / WITHOUT PROFI PLUS (25 kg) Adhesive for tile work indoors Vetoni T Optima / Old Optima Optima (25 kg) Adhesive Tile Litokol K17 / Litelicol K17 Cerambol (25 kg) Adhesive Tile Litokol K47 / Litokol K47 (25 kg) Adhesive Tile Litokol Litoflex K80 / Lithocol Lithoflex K80 Facade (25 kg) Adhesive Tile Litokol Litoflex K81 / Litoccol Lithoflex K81 (25 kg) Glue Tile Litokol Litofloor K66 / Lithofloor K66 lithoflor (25 kg) Glue Tile Litokol Litoplus K55 / Litokol Lithoplus K55 White (25 kg) Adhesive Tile Litokol Litostone K98 / Litovotone K98 (25 kg) glue tiled Litokol Litostone K99 / Litovotone Litovotone K99 White Ultrabol Class (25 kg) Adhesive Tile Lightokol Superflex K77 / Litelicol Superflex K77 for large-format floor (25 kg) Adhesive Tile Litokol X11 / Litelicol X11 for pools (25 kg) Glue tile IVSIL TERMIX / IVSILIX (25 kg) Tile glue Ceramics plus (25 kg) glue for white marble. Perfekta glass and mosaic / Hardfix Perfect white (25 kg) Ceramic tile glue and Perfekta porph advertising / Perfect Smartfix (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles and styling of porcelain pressure on Paul Perfekta / Startfix Perfect (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles. PERFEKTA PORFECTA / PERFECT PERFECT PLUS (25 kg) Ceramic tile glue. PERFEKTA PERFEKTA PERFECT / PERFECT MULTICHIX (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles. PERFEKTA PORFEKTA PERFECT / PERFECT Multifix Winter (25 kg) Glue for porcelain stoneware. Natural stone and clinker tiles Perfekta / Hardfix Perfect (25 kg) Glue for porcelain stoneware. Genuine stone and clinker tiles Perfekta / Hardfix Winter Perfect (25 kg) Glue glue. PERFEKTA Mosaic and Stone / Multifix White Perfect (25 kg) glue Mounted for thermal insulation Perfekta / Ecotek Perfect (25 kg) Adhesive Pulmongered for porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles Perfekta / Perfect Holder (25 kg) Elastic glue for natural stone and PERFEKTA PERFECT / PERFECT GREEN Line Ecoflex (25 kg) glue for all types of tiles for complex bases Bergauf Maximum / Bergauf maximum (25 kg) Ceramic tile glue Bergauf Keramik / Bergauf ceramics (25 kg) Glue for large-format and heavy slabs Bergauf Granit / Bergauf Granite (25 kg ) Glue for polystyrene foam Minvata and reinforcing layer Bergauf Isofix / Bergauf Isofix (25 kg) glue on white cement for transparent tiles and mosaic Bergauf Mosaik / Bergauf Mosaik (25 kg) glue reinforced for ceramic tiles Bergauf Keramik Pro / Bergauf Ceramic Pro (25 kg )
Surface area m 2
Layer thickness, mm.

Tools and materials

For beginners, it is important to prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance. At the layout selection stage, the width of the gaps between the tiles decide. Based on the selection made, krubes for seams are bought.

After that, you need to choose glue to lay the tile. For internal work, Most often buy "Cerezite SM11". This mixture is perfectly suitable for newcomers, since it has elasticity, it is quickly mixed and not collapsed for 10-15 minutes. This allows you to carefully align the tile horizontally and vertically.

To fulfill finishing works in the bathroom, the following tools will be required:

• drill or screwdriver;
• construction mixer;
• capacity for mixing the solution;

• glue for tiles in the required volumes;
• spatulas: with metal gear and straight blades, rubber;
• soft sponge;
• rag;
• roller or painting brush for applying primer;
• moisture-resistant soil;
• kiyanka;
• roulette;
• marker or pencil;
• bubble level;
• level;
• metal photographer for works with plasterboard.

Dismantling of an old coating

Replacing the tile begins with dismantling the old facing coating. It's not always easy to do this. The tile can be firmly strengthened on the wall and with difficulty to get into the hammer. In this case, the perforator will use and destroy the underlisted areas. The remnants of the adhesive are removed by a metal spatula.

If the old tile has been laid for a long time, a metal plaster mesh can be under it. For its cutting use scissors for metal.

Aligning surfaces

Preparation for laying the slab should begin with the leveling of the base. If, after dismantling a facing coating on the walls, deep cavities remained, requiring alignment, you can choose any of the two options for further actions:

1. buy a plaster mix and smear the slit;
2. sew wall plasterboard.

Each method has its own advantages. In the first case, during self-laying, the tiles will not require the skill of work with GLC. To align the walls, it is enough to prepare the plaster mix and apply it with a spatula. Careful alignment is not required, since small irregularities will be adjusted by means of glue for the tile.

Proper waterproofing

During the repair it is important to make high-quality waterproofing for the bathroom. The choice of materials providing protection against moisture penetration is wide, this is:

• Bitumen-based mastics;
• Penetrating solutions;
• Roll and rolling waterproofing.

For walls and floor, you can use the same or different mixtures. Floor needs to be more in isolation from water. Experts recommend choosing a special mixture with penetrating capacity to process concrete:

1. "Penetron";
2. "Lachta";
3. "Gymsmail";
4. "Isopron".

If the base is unstable, it is necessary to strengthen the joints of the walls and gender, steps, threshing. For this, elastic waterproofing tapes are placed. Their function is to prevent the formation of cracks. You can choose any of the following tape stamps:

• "IDRABUILD GIUNTOFLEX 120";
• "Litoband-R";
• "CoverBand";
• "Mapeband."

Where it is better to start

Laying the bathroom tiles with their own hands will be easier, if you install metal profiles along the bottom line of the first row. They will serve as a tile and prevent his slipping. In order to mount such a support line, it is necessary to correctly make the marking of the walls.

Without a level (laser level), a novice will be difficult to cope with this task. Enroll as follows ;:

1. measuring the height of the corners of the bathroom;
2. find the lowest and on it mark the place of the first tile (from the floor or from the level of the bathroom);
3. stripping from this point, with the help of a bubble level, horizontal lines on all walls.

There are no rules for the selection of the wall to start laying. Most masters prefer to start working from bath level, gluing a tile around the perimeter of the walls. After the glue freeze, the metal-turnover, which served as a support, is dismantled and proceed to further finish. Installation of tiles over the already existing first nearby will be easier.

Put the material

There are several ways to lay a tile, in which glue mixtures are applied:

• Only on the back side of the tile.
• On tile and wall.
• Only on the wall.

The first option is acceptable for smooth walls and is beneficial for low mixture consumption. The second method is used in the case of drops of heights on the basis. The glue layer will be thick and compensates for the shortcomings of the base surface. The third way uses self-confident masters who have extensive experience.

Before starting the finish, it is necessary to resolve the issue with moistening tiles and walls. You can do both at the same time, and it will be the best choice for porous tile. Moisther, he will not pull the moisture from the glue and the mixture will not dry ahead of time. If we put a porcelain stoneware or other tile with a low level of water absorption, you can refuse from wetting surfaces.

When the first few tiles will be glued, they are left before setting the composition. After that, check the quality of the clutch of the tile with the wall. If the result suits, finishing works continue. By analogy, you must put the tile in the bathroom on all walls. Installation of outdoor cladding is performed last.

Ceramics Styling Technique:

1. apply glue with a toothed spatula;
2. apply the element to the wall and slightly pressed it;
3. bubble levels check the deviations horizontally and vertical;
4. tapping with Cyans, give tiles the right position.

Statting seams, calculator

At the final stage, the seams are putting. To do this, use special slow solid mixtures. Grout may be dry or wet. In the first case, you will need to prepare a working mixture by adding water.

The grout is applied by a rubber spatula so that the seams are well filled. An important point is a wet sponge smoothing. This gives the seams a neat look. It is necessary to correctly calculate the required amount of material. If the grouts are not enough to complete the work, there is a risk of buying analogue from another batch, which will be distinguished by a color shade.

In this material I will tell you how the laying of tiles in the bathroom is done with your own hands. It would seem that such a small room, which is here to tell. But in fact there are many nuances that can be spent on the clock. For example, an inexhaustible topic for discussion can be some new collection of tiles, which can be postponed in a non-standard combination, or using unusual design solutions when laying.

I will tell how to put a tile in the bathroom on the wall on the example of the Cayman collection, from the Ukrainian manufacturer Golden Tile. It is made in black and white colors with imitation texture of lacquered leather. I saw her on some photos on the Internet, and I liked it. In addition, the black and white colors are classic, and will remain relevant even after dozen years. The cost of 1 square meter of 700 rubles / m² backgrounds.
The size of the main wall is not very large - only 180 cm. Considering that the tile has dimensions of 25x40 cm, these are 7 whole rows and about 3-4 cm residue.

Fast navigation on the article

Preparation

Initially, the bathroom was empty with leveling walls. If you have an old finish on the walls - it needs to be completely removed if the walls are uneven - align them. Sometimes this stage takes longer than the bathroom facing the bathroom tiles. But according to the technology you need to do this so that the layer of glue on the wall was uniform and did not exceed the thickness indicated by the manufacturer.

First, the walls are abundantly covered with primer deep penetration by roller.

Then exactly horizontal level is installed bath itself. This is important, because the laying of tiles in the bathroom will go from the bathroom. In all types of baths, a small dna bias is provided for draining water, so the side should not stand strictly horizontally.

Bath installation

Steel bath has 2 large drawbacks - strong noise with water set and fast cooling. These problems are easily solved by applying a bathing foam on the bottom. Before that, do not forget to collect in advance and fasten the siphon and legs to the bath.

After installing the bath 170 cm, the wall remained the gap at 10 cm. Therefore, the remaining 10 cm had to be sealed with a homemade shelf of several bars of the screwdrived wall, which were trimmed with drywall. It is not necessary to worry about the fact that water penetrates there, after the facing the base will be reliably protected.

To continue even laying from the level of the bathroom around the perimeter of the entire room, you need to fix the wall in the time shelf level from the profile.


The floor will have a trimming of half the tile, since according to the standard, the height of the bath from the finish floor to the side should be 60 cm, and we have a wall tile with a height of 40 cm.

Also before putting the tile in the bathroom, you need to go through the silicone plumbing sealant along the wall so that there is no moisture drop in there. Read about the article about the grout.

Laying

For layout planning, you need to decide in advance with the size and collection of tiles. To avoid unnecessary problems, it must mostly approach the size of your bathroom, at least on the facial wall. From ugly narrow trim, the appearance of the facing will be strongly spoiled.

To decide how to put the tile in the bathroom, I plan a layout on paper or in a 3D Sketch Up editor. Create several options and choose the best of them.

If you present the wall with a width of 180 cm and a tile of 25 cm, then we obtain 7 entire rows and a narrow trimming of 4 cm (taking into account the seams). And even if we start laying from the center, then the left and right will remain 2 cm.

Fishing of this layout was black angular tiles, which could not be cut, they should be uniform. Fortunately, Cayman's collection has friezes (borders) 3 cm wide, which allow solving problems with trimming.

In the Caiman collection, the floor tile has a glossy surface and dimensions of 30x30 cm. The distance from the screen to the opposite wall is 93 cm, but the trimming of 3 cm will look ugly. We kill 2 hare at once: we replace it with a similar black floor tile, but with a matte rough surface.

Order stacking

The most optimal way of laying in my opinion - from the level of the bathroom. So it turns out the most reliable waterproof seam (silicone + grout) + the edge of the side will be slightly recessed into the facing. Also, this option is more beautiful, because you are guaranteed not to get a narrow strip over the side, if you were laid by the tile from the floor.

The order of laying tiles in the bathroom is this:

• We are waving first all that is above the level of the bathroom to the ceiling. The first row should not go straight on the side of the bathroom, you need to retreat about 2 mm (the thickness of the cross), so that then hesitate this seam. From above will be a stretch ceiling, so we leave a place to install a plastic baguette around the perimeter. The stretch ceilings can be installed on an arbitrary height, so we do not need to suffer with the fitting of the trim from the ceiling - we make them on the place.
• Then we lay the remaining rows below the bathroom level in the rest of the room.
• Make a frame under the bathroom and waving it. It will be made of high-quality rigid metal frame, sheathed with plasterboard. Ceramic tile has a lot of weight, so do not save and buy a cheap thin-walled profile from Foil, it is better to take the corporate channel profile or make a wooden frame from bars.
• And at the end, the concrete base is stuffed and put the tile on the floor. In some cases, this stage can go first.

Laying

We drag the tile glue by a perforator with a nozzle and start laying. The glue is applied to the mounting base of the tile using a toothed spatula or rowing. In a specific case, a spatula with teeth is 6 mm.

To get the maximum adhesion, you can additionally be labeled with a thin layer "on the SDIR" walls, but the speed of work will fall. Since the walls are smooth, after pressing the tiles, we get a thin uniform layer, which when drying will not "behave" it.

After applying glue, press the tile and press it with small wavy movements "there and here" to distribute the glue inside and get rid of voids. It is much more convenient and more reliable than tapping rubber in it.

Each horizontal range is better to spread the tile from one pack, since almost always domestic manufacturers violate calibration. Because of this, the tiles may differ by several millimeters, and this is critical at 2 mm seams.

Since my vertical series consists of different types of tiles, I can not use this rule, but before laying I divided the entire tile in size into several groups (small, medium, large).

Between the tiles plastic crosses are inserted. Their thickness is selected in terms of tile sizes and its quality so that they can compensate for the discrepancy of the seams. Also, plastic wedges can be used to compensate for uneven seams.

Facing the screen under the bath

The frame is assembled as follows:

Put

It remains only to sweep the seams in a day after laying. Before that, you need to remove the residues of the glue from the seams. We divorce the mixture and we apply it inside the seams with a rubber spatula.

After 20-30 minutes, the seams are slightly frozen and it will be necessary to wash the surface with a wet sponge, but do not wash the mixture from the seams. The sponge should be clean, so you constantly need to dip it into a container with warm water.

When white rags begin to appear on the cladding, it is necessary to thoroughly wash it with a clean cloth.

Conclusion

Laying the tile in the bathroom with their own hands is completed. It remains only to install a washing machine socket, faucets, a shower holder, a clothing hooks, a towel rail, an end with a sink and shelves for hygiene accessories.

Comments Powered by Hypercomments