In the element database of the computer (and not only) there is one bottleneck - electrolytic capacitors. They contain electrolyte, electrolyte is a liquid. Therefore, the heating of such a capacitor leads to its failure, since the electrolyte evaporates. And the heating in the system unit is regular.
Therefore, the replacement of capacitors is a matter of time. More than half of the failures of motherboards of the middle and lower price category occurs due to the fault of the dried or discontinued capacitors. More often for this reason, computer power supplies break.
Since the printing on modern boards is very dense, it is necessary to replace capacitors very carefully. It can be damaged and at the same time not to notice a small inappropsy element or break (closure) tracks, thickness and distance between which a little more thickness of the human hair. Fix the like it is sufficiently difficult. So be careful.
So, to replace capacitors you will need a soldering iron with a subtle stall capacity of 25-30W, a piece of thick guitar string or a thick needle, a soldering flux or rosin.
In the event that you confuse polarity when replacing the electrolytic capacitor or install a low-faceted capacitor, it may well explode. But what it looks like:
So carefully select the item to replace and install the correctly. The electrolytic capacitors are always marked by minus contact (usually a vertical color strip other than the body color). On the printed circuit board, the hole for minus contact is also marked (usually with black hatch or solid white color). Ratings are written on the capacitor housing. There are several of them: voltage, tank, tolerances and temperature.
The first two is always there, the rest may be absent. Voltage: 16V (16 volts). Capacity: 220μF. (220 microfrades). These rates are very important when replacing. Voltage can choose equal or with a large face value. But the capacity affects the time of charging / discharge of the capacitor and in some cases may be important for the circuit section.
Therefore, the container should be selected equal to the one that is indicated on the housing. On the left in the photo below the green swollen (or dot) condenser. In general, constant problems with these green capacitors. The most frequent substitution candidates. On the right, a good capacitor, which will be soldered.
Condenser falls as follows: First, find the legs of the capacitor on the reverse side of the board (for me it is the most difficult moment). Then heated one of the legs and slightly pressing the capacitor body from the heated leg. When solder melts, the capacitor leans. Conduct a similar procedure with the second leg. Usually the capacitor is removed in two receptions.
It is not necessary to hurry to put pressure too much. Mat. Payment is not a double-sided textolitol, but a multi-layered (imagine a wafer). Due to excessive zeal, it is possible to damage the contacts of the inner layers of the printed circuit board. So without fanaticism. By the way, long-term heating can also damage the fee, for example, lead to the detachment or separation of the contact site. Therefore, it is also not necessary to put pressure on the soldering iron. Soldering galleries leaning, pressing the capacitor slightly.
After removing the damaged condenser, it is necessary to make holes so that the new capacitor is inserted freely or with a small force. For these purposes, I use a guitar string of the same thickness as the legs of the discharged part. For these purposes, a sewing needle is suitable, but the needles are now made from ordinary iron, and steel strings. There is a possibility that the needle will grab the solder and break when trying to pull it out. A string is flexible enough and the steel with the solder is much worse than iron.
When dismantling capacitors, solder most often clogs holes in the board. Having tried to hit the capacitor in the same way that I advised it to be filled, you can damage the contact pad and the track leading to it. Not the end of the world, but a very undesirable incident. Therefore, if the holes did not score solder, they just need to expand. And if it still scored, then you need to tightly press the end of the string or needle to the hole, and on the other hand, lean the soldering iron to this hole. If such an option is inconvenient, then the sore soldering should be leaning to the string almost at the base. When solder melts, the string will enter the hole. At this moment it is necessary to rotate it so that it does not grab the solder.
After receiving and expanding the hole, it is necessary to remove the excess solder from its edges, if any, otherwise a tin cap can be formed during the supply of a capacitor, which can solder adjacent tracks in those places where the print is dense. Pay attention to the photo below - how close to the holes are the paths. Such such is very easy, but it is difficult to notice, since the installed capacitor prevents the review. Therefore, the extra solder is very desirable to clean.
If you do not have a radio market, then most likely a condenser for replacement only can be used. Before mounting, it is necessary to process its legs if required. It is advisable to remove the entire solder from the legs. I usually smear the legs with a flux and a clean sketch of the soldering iron, I'm going to solder on the sting of the soldering iron. Then I bracle the feet of the capacitor with a stationery knife (just in case).
Here, in fact, all. We insert the condenser, lubricate the feet with flux and solder. By the way, if the pine rosin is used, it is better to pull it into powder and apply it to the place of installation than to make a soldering iron in a piece of rosin. Then it turns out neatly.
Replacing the capacitor without falling from the board
Repair conditions are different and change the capacitor on a multi-layer (mat. PC card, for example) a printed circuit board - this is not the same thing to change the capacitor in the power supply (single-layer one-sided printed circuit board). It is necessary to be extremely neat and careful. Unfortunately, not everyone was born with a soldering iron in their hands, but to repair (or try to repair) something is very necessary.
As I already wrote in the first half of the article, most often the cause of the breakdowns are condensers. Therefore, the replacement of capacitors is the most frequent type of repair, at least in my case. In specialized workshops there are special equipment for these purposes. If there is no, you have to use the equipment of the usual (flux, solder and soldering iron). In this case, experience is very helpful.
The main advantage of this method is that the contact pads of the fees will have to be heated significantly less. At least twice. Printing on cheap mat. Payments quite often peeling from heating. The tracks are broken, and then it is rather problematic.
The minus of this method is that the fee will still have to prescribe, which can also lead to negative consequences. Although from my personal practice to crush a lot never had. At the same time there are all the chances of soldering to the legs remaining after the mechanical removal of the capacitor.
So, the condenser replacement begins with the removal of a spoiled part with a mat.
You need to put a finger on the condenser and with a light touch try to shift it up and down and left-right. If the capacitor swings to the left-right, then the legs are located along the vertical axis (as in the photo), in the opposite case by horizontal. You can also determine the position of the legs in a minus marker (strip on the capacitor body, denoting the minus contact).
Next should be pressed on the capacitor along the axis of its legs, but not sharp, but smoothly, slowly increasing the load. As a result, the leg is separated from the housing, then we repeat the procedure for the second legs (we give from the opposite side).
Sometimes the leg due to bad solder is pulled out with the condenser. In this case, you can slightly expand the resulting hole (I do it with a piece of guitar string) and insert a piece of copper wire there is preferably the same with a leg of thickness.
Half of the case is done, now go directly to replacing the condenser. It is worth noting that the solder does not stick to that part of the leg, which was inside the capacitor body and it is better to bite it off, leaving a small part. Then the legs of the capacitor prepared for the replacement and legs of the old capacitor are processed by the solder and solder. The most convenient to solder the capacitor, putting it to the board at an angle of 45 degrees. Then it can be easily put on the rack of sleep.
The view of course is non-psychic, but this method works much easier and safer than the previous one from the point of view of heating with a soldering iron. Good repair!
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Symptoms at the failure of condensers are diverse. It is hanging and blue screens and simply a computer reluctance to turn on. Usually, to the conclusion about the iron problem, they come after installing the "net" system and installation on it "native" drivers. If there are freezes and bsods on a bare system and correct drivers - check iron.
Another reason for hanging is the failure of the elements on the motherboard. Perhaps the most common condensers are out.
The breakdown is easy to determine the swollen capacitors. The upper capacitors caps are made with a cross-shaped "cut" precisely in order to be easily identified by non-working capacitor. Capacitors may fail for several reasons. The most common is a poor-quality party. Simply put - factory marriage. Such condensers of about two or three and "drift" are served. Second reason - time. From old age, the electrolyte dries in them, the container decreases. The third reason is overheating. If the condenser is near a hot processor - the risk of exitting it is increasing.
Why start.
Of course - with off the computer from the network. Remember - all manipulations are made only on the equipment off. When it is desirable to disconnect not only the supply wire from the system unit, but all other wires and cables. Power can go from the monitor on a VGA cable, a network card can also be energized from active network equipment.
Remove the cover from the system unit (left, if you look at the front block). Systemic (maternal) fee need to unscrew from the case. Remove all extension boards, unscrew all the fastening screws that the motherboard is screwed to the wall. Turn off the feed cables from the power supply. Turn off the wiring harness going to the front panel of the case. Just in case, draw the connection of all wiring on the fee. The processor can be removed from the board.
We find damaged capacitors. Carefully watch marking. We need to know the container and operating voltage. For example, 1000mF, 6.3V. We run into the nearest electronics store and buy the same capacitors on the nominal. Please note that there are capacitors with a maximum operating temperature of 105 degrees in computer boards. Such capacitors are called "low-impended" or you can simply say "computer capacitors need" in the store. Sellers are aware. So, condensers are bought. By the way, take the thing-two about the reserve. If something goes wrong - it will replace what. Or another faulty will be found. Or will remain for later.
Eating old condensers
It's time to turn on the soldering iron. Please note that elements on modern boards are soldered by a lead-free solder, which has a melting point higher than a familiar solder. The soldering iron will need to heat up to 300 degrees (approximately).
Take a fee in hand. It is advisable to ground and have a soldering iron with a grounded sting. Status - a cunning thing.
We take the condenser with one hand, the soldering iron on the other hand warming up the solder point of one condenser foot on the other side of the board. The condenser can be swathe from side to side to stir up. We drop one leg. Warring the second. Pulled the capacitor. We repeat the procedures for the remaining damaged capacitors. Make sure that when the legs are heated, the soldering iron does not slip and does not demolish small elements from the motherboard. Do not hurry.
Prepare places of landing
After all sick capacitors are quenched, you need to take care of the boarding holes for healthy. For such purposes, special solder suction usually use. But most likely you do not have it, so we take a needle and gently expand the holes on both sides. Solder is quite soft and must succumb. Do not overdo it if you take a sewer - you can also break the board. The motherboard is a multi-layered and a small crack can bring it out forever.
We put new items
Insert all the capacitors to your place.
Observe polarity. On the capacitors usually label a minus leg strip on the housing. In addition, a minus foot is shorter, plus - longer. The board also has a polarity designation. The minus half is indicated by a white semicircle.
ATTENTION!On some boards (rarely), the polarity is confused and the semicircle denotes "plus". Before the stripping of old elements, look at the polarity and labeling.
Capacitors inserted, turn the board and extend the legs of the capacitors so that they do not fall out.
Soldering
Approached the most responsible stage - soldering. Do not bite the legs put the sting of the soldering iron right to the board near the leg. We bring the solder to the feet of the capacitor and slightly touch the soldering iron. Solder immediately melted and droplets flows down the leg on the seat. With due skill, it turns out beautifully and quickly. Shipping all the legs.
Slimming
We take nippers and bite the legs of the capacitors. Do not leave long sticking legs. They can get the walls of the housing and something will definitely burn. Take care of your eyes! The legs are usually flying away from the bodies in an arbitrary direction. Can please go into the eye. It is better to operate with plaques, and keep the leg biled with the other hand.
Assembly
Assembly, as they say, produce in the reverse order. We connect all the wiring from the front panel of the housing to the motherboard first. Then spend from the power supply, USB tails, powered by body fans. We screw the board to the wall. Insert expansion cards (video, network, etc.). We connect the power - turn on.
Works - close the housing cover and enjoy.
Conventional electrical capacitors are the simplest passive devices that are designed to accumulate charge. Their design is two metal plates, between which the dielectric is installed. In the installation process there is no difference that the device itself will be connected to the electrical circuit. But there is a variety of them, which involves the correct installation and connection with the polarity, that is, the exact connection of the anode (+) and the cathode (-). Such capacitors are called electrolytic. Therefore, the topic of this article is to determine the polarity of the condenser.
Let's start with the fact that the electrolytic type capacitor is an element that has absorbed the properties of two types of this instrument. These are the functions of a passive element and semiconductor.
Definition of polarity
There are several options how to determine the polarity of capacitors. The easiest is to find special signs that define an anode or cathode on the body of the element. For example, on the electrolytes of domestic production, the ends (conclusions) can be located on different sides of the device (radial) or on one side (axially).
So, a plus sign is necessarily applied on the case. And to which out of the conclusions it is closer, it means that end and is part of the anode. Some capacitors of Czech production (old samples) are numbered in the same way.
There are electrolytic capacitors and another type, in which the design is different from the standard. That is, their housing is designed to connect to the chassis. Such elements are usually used in lighting lamps, and, more precisely, in the anode voltage filters. By the way, such tension is always positive, therefore it is called anodic. Therefore, such condensers have a specific design:
- the element occurring is a cathode with a negative connection derived to the body;
- anode is a central output sticking out of the element.
Attention! Electrolytic capacitors of this design may also have a completely opposite polarity. Therefore, it is recommended again to pay attention to the labeling on the instrument.
The designation of positive contact and the negative can be located in different places. And not all of them can immediately find. For example, the K50-16 brand condenser is an element in which the bottom is made of plastic. So, plus and minus are located on this day, and the ends of the electrodes pass right through these signs.
But the condenser "this" (outdated model) is very similar to the diode. He also has the notation of the plus and minus. But if you didn't find them on the case, then you know that the end that comes out of the thickening of the body and is an anode.
How to determine the polarity from modern foreign models of electrolytic capacitors? After all, in Europe, completely different technical conditions and standards. Everything is simple enough. Color dotted lines are applied on the body of the element, differing from the case of the case. Points are a few minuses denoting the cathode. So here is a conclusion located next to this intermittent line and is negative.
Definition of polarity in electrical circuit
The situation when there is no labeling on the electrolytic capacitor (erased with time), it is often found quite. It is possible to determine its polarity if you collect a simple scheme where this item is connected. Here is this scheme:
- battery in a few volts;
- resistor (1 com);
- microamper.
All this is connected sequentially. How is the test of the condenser on polarity?
- First of all, it is necessary to discharge the capacitor.
- Then shift into the scheme.
- Apply voltage.
- As soon as it is fully charged, fix the ammeter readings. Charging the capacitor is determined by its capacity.
- Then the device is dropped from the circuit and discharged.
- It is connected to the diagram and charging.
- New ammeter readings must be compared with previous ones. If the deviations are minor, it means that the polarity of the connection was performed correctly. If the difference is big, the connection was made incorrectly.
Newbies may have a question how to discharge this element? You can discharge with different options, for example, to connect two outputs through any resistance. It may be an ordinary light bulb or a voltmeter. The first will gradually fade, the second testimony will be reduced in front.
By the way, often meets the opposite question, how to charge the capacitor? The one who was a student of an electrical educational institution knows that there was a joke when the electrolytic capacitor was charged through a socket. Two wires soldered to his conclusions, which stuck in the openings of the sockets. The charge time of the capacitors was determined to the eye. After that, the charged device, and, more precisely, its ends were applied to the part of the body of anything unpiring person (more often to hand), which caused a blow to electric shock. The greater the container of the element, the stronger the blow. A terrible fun who could end in donate. To withstand numerous charges, the device could not, on the third or fourth time he was sure to explode.
Calculation capacity
Now let's go to one very important issue how to calculate the capacity of the quenching capacitor? Why quenching. The thing is that the simplest lower supply blocks are deceptor. They are the main element and is a dividing type device.
So the calculation of its capacity can be done using the formula:
C \u003d 3200 i / √uc²-U² where
- UC is a voltage voltage in Volta;
- U is a reduced voltage to power the instrument.
The calculation of the capacity of the quenching capacitor can also be carried out according to the simplified formula, if the reduced voltage does not exceed 20 volts: C \u003d 3200 I / √UC².
Attention! The voltage of the quenching capacitor must be greater than the power supply. The characteristic must be two or three times more.
By the way, the calculation for this formula determines the container in micropraids.
Are the second, prevalence and degree of use, after resistors, detail in electronic circuits. Indeed, in any electronic device, whether it is a multivibrator on 2 transistors or a computer motherboard, these radio elements are used in all of them.
The condenser has a property to accumulate charge and subsequently give it. The simplest capacitor is 2 plates separated by a thin layer of dielectric. Capacitive resistance of the capacitor depends on its tank and current frequency. The capacitor conducts alternating current and does not miss permanent. The capacitance of the capacitor is the greater the greater the area of \u200b\u200bthe plates (plates) of the capacitor, and the greater the thinner of the dielectric layer between them.
The containers parallel to the connected capacitors are folded. The tanks of successively connected capacitors are considered by the formula shown in the figure below:
Capacitors are both constant and variable capacity. The latter are also called and abbreviated with the KPU (Condenser variable capacity). Condensers of constant capacity are both polar and non-polar. Figure below shows a schematic representation of a polar capacitor:
Polar includes electrolytic capacitors. Tantalum capacitors are also available, which differ from aluminum electrolytic, higher stability, but also cost more. Electrolytic capacitors are susceptible compared to non-polar more rapid aging. Polar capacitors have positive and negative electrodes, plus and minus. The photo further shows an electrolytic condenser:
At the Soviet electrolytic capacitors, polarity was denoted by the housing plus a positive electrode. Imported capacitors are denoted by a negative electrode minus. With violation of the modes of operation of electrolytic capacitors, they can decide and explode. In electrolytic capacitors, in order to avoid an explosion, they make special notches on the cover of the housing:
Also, electrolytic capacitors can explode if they mistakenly submit voltage above the on which they were calculated. On the photo of the electrolytic capacitor of the above, the inscription 33 μF x 100 V. is visible, this means its container equal to 33 microfrades and a permissible voltage up to 100 volts. The non-polar capacitor in the diagrams is indicated as follows:
Non-polar capacitor image in the diagram
The photo below shows the film and ceramic capacitors:
Film
Ceramic
Capacitors distinguish between dielectric. There are capacitors with solid, liquid and gaseous dielectric. With a solid dielectric this: paper, film, ceramic, saliva. There are also electrolytic, which have already been told above and oxide-semiconductor capacitors. These capacitors differ from all other large-specific specific capacity. Many, I think, have met on import capacitors such a digital designation:
The figure above shows how to calculate the denomination of such a capacitor. For example, if marking 332 is applied on the condenser, it means that it has a capacity of 3300 picofradews or 3.3 nanofarad. Below is a table that referred to which you can easily calculate the nominal value of any condenser with such marking:
There are capacitors and in SMD execution, the most common in amateur structures I think Types 0805 and 1206. The image of a non-polar SMD capacitor can be seen in the drawings below:
Industry is available and so-called solid-state capacitors. Inside, they have an organic polymer instead of electrolyte.
Variables condensers
Like resistors, some special capacitors can change their capacity if necessary during the configuration process. The figure shows the condenser device of a variable capacity: 
The capacity in variable capacitors by changing the area parallel to the condenser plates is adjusted. Capacitors are divided into variables that have a handle to rotate the shaft, and the rapid, which have a slot under a screwdriver, and also consist of movable and non-moving parts.
In the figure, they are indicated as a rotor and stator. Such capacitors are used in radio receptions to configure the desired frequency of broadcasting. The capacity of such capacitors is usually small and equal to units - maximum hundreds of picofrades. So denotes the circuits of a capacitance condenser:
The following figure shows a trimmed capacitor. The rapid condenser is indicated in the diagrams as follows:
Such capacitors are usually adjusted only once when assembling and configuring radio-electronic equipment.
The following figure shows the structure of a trimmed condenser:
The capacitance of the capacitor is measured in the Farades. But even 1 Farad, this is a very large capacity, therefore, millions of frauds, microfarades, as well as smaller, nanoforades and pycofarades are usually used to designate. Translate from microfarad to picofarades and back is very easy. 1 Microfarad is 1000 nanofarad or 100,000 picophaderad. Capacitors, among other things, are used in oscillatory circuits of radio receivers, in power blocks for smoothing pulsations, as well as as dividing in amplifiers. Review prepared AKV.
Discuss an article condenser
The electrolytic capacitor is a strange electronic component that combines the properties of the passive element and the semiconductor device. In the distinction from an ordinary capacitor, it is a polar element.
Instruction
1. Electrolytic capacitors of domestic production, the results of which are located radially either axially, to determine the polarity, detect a plus sign located on the housing. That of the results, closer to which he is placed is positive. Similarly, some dilated capacitors of Czech production are labeled.
2. Condensers of coaxial design, in which the case is designed to connect from the chassis; It is commonly pre-prepared for use in the anode voltage filters of devices performed on the lamps. From the fact that it is correct, the minus laying of them in most cases is derived to the body, and plus - on the central contact. But from this rule, there may be exceptions, and in case of any doubt, look at the label on the body of the device (designation of the plus or minus) or, in the absence of such, check the polarity by the method described below.
3. A non-standard case appears when checking electrolytic capacitors of type K50-16. Such an appliance has a plastic bottom, and the polarity marking is placed right on it. Occasionally signs of minus and plus are located in such a way that the results pass right through their centers.
4. Outdated type capacitor This is the uninitiated can take for a diode. It is commonly polarity on its package is indicated by the method described in step 1. In the absence of marking, know that the result located on the side of the housing thickening is connected to the correct fold. In no case do not disassemble such capacitors - they contain poisonous substances!
5. The polarity of modern electrolytic capacitors of imported production, independently of their design, determine the strip located next to the minus result. It is applied with color contrasting the color of the case, and is intermittent, i.e. How would consist of minuses.
6. To determine the polarity of the capacitor that has no marking, collect a chain consisting of a multi-volt voltage source, a resistor to one kiloma and a microammeter, combined steps. Fully discharge the device, and only then turn on this chain. Later, read the instrument readings later. After that, disconnect the capacitor from the chain, again completely discharge, turn on the chain, wait for the full charge and read new readings. Compare them with the previous ones. When connected in a positive polarity of loss noticeably smaller.
In the auto shops, lead-acid batteries are sold straight (they are equipped with all domestic cars) and reverse polarity (installed on some foreign-made machines). Before buying a battery, you need to define it correctly polarity .
You will need
- Voltmeter
Instruction
1. Service life Any battery is limited and is, as usual, no more than five years. Having worked on the laid time, the moment of replacement of the power unit comes. And if the owners of automobiles of domestic production, the task is to prefer the AKB of the corresponding capacity and give preference to a certain brand, then the owners of imported cars need to learn before buying polarity battery.
2. To achieve the task of the task, the battery is extracted from the battery socket and is located in such a way that, with visual inspection, its terminals are required to be at the bottom. Please note that one of them is slightly thinner (it is minus).
3. If the minus terminal is located on the battery on the left (bottom), then the reverse polarity battery.
4. In cases where more thin terminal on the right is a straight polarity battery.
5. In order to finally make sure that the polarity of the battery is correct, attach a voltmeter to it. In this case, the scarlet probe device removes the voltage with a thick terminal, and black - with thin. The reading on the scale without a "minus" sign confirms the studied parameters of the AKB.
Video on the topic
Note!
Installing the battery inadequate polarity into the car scares that it is not possible to connect cables to its terminals.
Any diode changes its conductivity depending on the polarity of the voltage applied to it. The location of the electrodes on its package is not invariably. If the corresponding marking is missing, determine which electrode is connected to what a result, allowed and checked.
Instruction
1. First of all, define polarity Voltages on the probe of that measuring instrument you use. If he is universal, translate it into an ohmmeter mode. Take off every diode, on the housing of which the location of the electrodes is indicated. On this designation, the "triangle" corresponds to the anode, and the "strip" - cathode. Try to connect the probe to the diode in different polarities. If it spends the current, it means that the probe with the correct potential is connected to the anode, and with negative - to the cathode. remember, that polarity In the measurement mode, the resistance on the shooting devices may differ from the one that is specified for the voltage and current measurement modes. But on digital devices, it is traditionally identical in all modes, but the check does not interfere anyway.
2. If a vacuum diode with direct rugs is checked, earlier each, detect the combination of pins, between which the current passes independently from the polarity of the connection of the measuring instrument. It is a thread of the heat, it is also a cathode. On the directory, detect the rated voltage diode. . Put the intensity of the continuous voltage of the corresponding value. The probe of the device where the negative potential is located, connect to one of the threads of the filament, and by positive probe, touch the remaining results of the lamp. Finding the pin, when touched the probe to which the resistance is displayed, less infinity, draw the result that it is an anode. Strong vacuum diodes with direct heat (kenotrons) can have two anode.
3. At vacuum diode. With indirect glow heater is isolated from the cathode. Having found it, apply an alternating voltage on it, the valid value of which is equal to the reference book. After that, among the other results, detect two such, between which the current passes at a certain polarity. That of them to which the probe is connected with positive potential is the anode opposite - the cathode. Remember that many vacuum diodes with indirect glow have two anode, and some are two cathodes.
4. The semiconductor diode has each two result. Accordingly, the device is allowed to connect each two methods. Determine the location of the element in which the current passes through it. The probe with positive potential at the same time will be connected to the anode, and with negative - to the cathode.
On the 1st gaze, denote on the dynamics polarity It makes no sense, from the fact that alternating voltage is fed. But when in the acoustic system, several dynamic heads, they need to be included in the simphanist. It is customary to designate the heads of the head polarity at which the diffuser moves forward.
Instruction
1. Make a special probe to check the speakers. To do this, take the usual pocket lamp based on the incandescent lamp. Remove the switch from it, and instead the last connect two probe. They strictly necessarily have insulated handles, from the fact that at the time of turning off the voltage on the results of the head, self-induction voltage appears. Check out polarity Voltages on the probe using the control voltmeter. Apply appropriate designations on them. Make sure that if the probe closures, the lamp glows.
2. Disconnect the amplifier and each stereo complex (including from the outlet). Disconnect both results of the dynamic head from the remaining chains of the speaker system. Connect the probe to the results of the head, without touching the latter nor metal parts of the probes. At the moment, it is observed to look at the diffuser. If when it is connected, it moves outward, and when disabling - inward, polarity Positive. If the back pattern is monitored, change polarity Connecting probe, later again, repeat the check. After that, mark on the dynamic head frame with an immentable felt-tip pen. polarity corresponding to the polarity of the connection of probe.
3. Perform a similar operation for other speakers in the limit of one speaker system. Alone on how they are connected (directly either through the crossover), connect them to the simphanist in the same way that the red contact on the rear wall of the column corresponded to the positive results of the heads.
4. Also check and, if necessary, remake the second speaker system. Closing the body of both columns, check whether they are connected to the amplifier. On the cable to which such a connection is carried out, there are special red labels. In all cases, connect the conductor with the label to the red terminal, and the conductor without a label is to black.
5. Turn on the stereo complex. Compare his sound with the one that took place before alteration.
Video on the topic
It would seem why to designate polarity on the dynamics of the stereo system? A variable voltage is fed to it. However, if the acoustic heads in the system are several, including them is needed simphanly. On the results of one or another head, the polarity value in which the diffuser moves towards the forward direction.
You will need
- - pocket lantern with incandescent lamp;
- - probe with insulated handles;
- - incisible marker;
- - Voltmeter.
Instruction
1. In order to determine the polarity of the speaker, make a probe device. Take an ordinary pocket lantern with incandescent lamp. Disconnect the switch from it, which will be needed to connect two probe. The probes are required to be with insulated handles, since when the voltage is turned off, self-induction voltage occurs on the results of the head.
2. With the support of the control voltmeter, check the polarity on the probe, later, apply the corresponding designations on the probivities. When the probe closes, the lamp should burn.
3. Disconnect the amplifier and in general the entire speaker system, remove the cord from the outlet. After that, disconnect the results of the dynamic head from the remaining circuits of the system. Continue both probe to the results of the head, cautiously touches the results and metal parts of the probes themselves. And look at the diffuser is observed. If it moves to the outside when connected, and inward - when disabling, it means that the polarity is positive. If the picture is tracked the opposite, it is necessary to change the polarity of the probe connection, and then repeat the scan.
4. On the frame of the head, mark the polarity designed by the indelible marker, which corresponds to the polarity of the probe connection.
5. Do the same operations for the other speakers of the acoustic system. And not significantly, they are connected via the crossover either directly, it is necessary to connect them to simphazno so that the advantages of the heads corresponded to the red color on the rear wall of the column itself.
6. Check and remove if necessary, second speaker system. Check by closing the 2-speakers housing, it is positively connected to an amplifier. On the cable that exercises such a connection is allowed to notice the red labels. In any case, the conductor with the label must be connected to the red terminal, and the one that without a label is to the black terminal.
7. Turn on the stereo system and compare the sound that it publishes now, with the sound that it has published before your intervention.
Doctors and psycho-physiologists have long paid attention to the fact that the same one color identically affects all people. Let's say, scarlet color has an exciting effect, purple worried, blue soothes, and green creates a sense of stability in life.
The most famous expert, the one that was engaged in comprehending the impact of flowers on the mental state of people, Max Lucher. He allocated four psychotype of people, based on their color preferences.
Color types of personality
Red psychotype
People who prefer red, dozen are energetic, allowed them to compare with a "unbreakable motor". They are, as usual, are continuously in excitation and love this condition. As a result, they don't often experience nervous exhaustion and irritation.
Yellow psychotype
People of this type are the mainly of their personal will and the likelihood of self-realization. They love experiments, no change in life is not afraid. Because of its autonomy, they often feel unsatisfactory loved ones and lost.
Blue psychotype
For these people, the peaceful pace of life is in life, they love peace and peace. Due to the fact that they choose "even existence", without surprises and unplanned actions, these people are often whining and experiencing alienation, being close to people who love them.
Green psychotype
People of this warehouse in the Nrava love to lead the situation and by them. They calculate the formation of events in advance, they know what they want to get and what they are ready for it. Spontaneity is not included in the list of their qualities. For these people, it is significantly how they look in the eyes of others and they will take advantage of everyone likely to increase their rank.
Video on the topic
Note!
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