Many summer residents wonder why the ground in the greenhouse turns white, because they take such careful care of it, fertilize, water and weed. So what is the reason for the greening of the earth, mildew and white bloom?
The most common causes are excessive soil moisture, harmful organisms and improper care.
The soil is sick for several reasons:
- If you water the soil endlessly.
- With increased acidity of the soil.
- With poor ventilation of the greenhouse or no ventilation at all, as a result of which the humidity in the room rises.
- If you add a lot of fertilizer to the ground.
These reasons can be combined with each other.
Insect pests and diseases
Very often, pests lay their larvae in the soil where they are long time... If this problem is not dealt with, then the number of harmful larvae in the soil will only increase. And some conditions can contribute to this, for example, heating the soil during the cold season, etc.
The most common pests include:
- wireworms,
- cabbage flies,
- bear,
- spider mite and others.
Other types of soil diseases include infections vegetable crops- these are various mold spores and fungal diseases, which can also penetrate the soil and cause contamination. Many microorganisms are able to penetrate not only into the soil, but also permanently remain on the frame of the greenhouse itself (especially if it is made of wood). Therefore, if you are taking measures to decontaminate the soil, it is necessary to touch all parts of the greenhouse in order to completely exclude the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
Common soil diseases:
- keel;
- late blight;
- spots on the leaves;
- macrosporiosis;
- peronosporosis.
Back to the table of contents
Waterlogged soil
If the soil becomes too wet, then in the near future you can find algae, fungus and mosses in your beds. This is also facilitated by warm air in the greenhouse. Particular deceit may be from the outside groundwater, which may be located in the area of the greenhouse. Often, the owner of the greenhouse may not be aware of this and water his plants as usual, as a result, excessive moisture occurs, which in turn leads to soreness and greening of the soil.
How to distinguish moss from algae? You can often confuse these two types, but they have distinctive features:
- At poor lighting greenhouses, moss appears on plants and the ground.
- But if there is enough light in the greenhouse, then we can talk about the formation of algae.
Back to the table of contents
Causes of white plaque and measures to get rid of it
White bloom is a yellowish crust composed of salt. It can form for the following reasons:
- If the composition of the soil is considered mechanically heavy.
- Obstructed soil drainage.
- With poor or poor watering.
- Too much a large number of fertilizers in the soil.
- A large number of dressings in the ground.
- Irrigation water can contain large amounts of chlorine, calcium or magnesium.
- Dry air.
- Fungus or mold.
Ways to combat plaque.
The appearance of green and white blooms in the soil is associated with excessive waterlogging of the soil.
You can get rid of white bloom on the soil in different ways:
- For example, you can sprinkle the surface of the soil with expanded clay. It is on it that a white dried sediment will appear, from time to time expanded clay must be washed and returned to its place again.
- Sprinkle on topsoil river sand and loosen it more often. It is very beneficial for the root system of plants.
- You can remove the top layer of soil and add humus from the leaves.
- Remove the top layer of earth and fill in a new one.
- Purchase a soil deoxidizer from a specialized store. Remove the top layer of soil and pour in the deoxidizer deeper.
- Water the soil with softened water. To do this, use a special filter. You can put a bag of peat in a bucket of water. If possible, then water should be passed through the peat layer, then the salts are adsorbed.
Back to the table of contents
Increased acidity of the soil
To reduce the acidity of the soil, which causes mosses and mold to spread throughout the site (and this is detrimental to plants), you need to take the following actions:
- Add wood resin to the soil, you need to do this from time to time. But not too often.
- Add lime to the soil.
- Dolomite flour added to the soil relieves soil diseases well.
It is advisable to add these fertilizers to the soil at the time of digging up the earth, before planting plants and after harvesting. In this case, the soil in the greenhouse will not deoxidize, from which mosses will cease to appear.
In order for the plants in the soil to grow well and produce a crop, proceed as follows:
- Sprinkle lime over the soil and do not dig in the soil.
- After that, sow siderata - this is a fast growing herb.
- After the grass sprouts, plant other vegetable seedlings in the soil.
- After the seedlings have taken root, the grass is mowed and used in the future as a mulching material.
A letter from Irina Khromova from Nizhny Novgorod... She writes: “My hobby is to plant indoor flowers. But here's the attack. Usually, in late autumn, a white bloom appears on the ground in a flowerpot and often because of it my favorite flowers die. Please tell us how to save indoor plants if there is a white bloom in a pot on the ground? "
Dear Irina. Most often, the white bloom is salt that protrudes to the surface of the soil. There are many reasons for this. For example, the soil is too heavy in texture, or, conversely, too lean, sandy, poor in organic matter that absorbs salts. The consequence of this is the high capillarity of the soil. Moisture, like a filter, stretches to the surface of the soil, evaporates from it and leaves drips of salt. The same happens if a large amount of sphagnum is added to the flower pot. Well, if a white bloom appears in a flower pot on the ground, then the plant develops poorly and may even die.
Another reason for the appearance of white bloom on the ground in a flower pot is when the potting soil is over-fertilized. This usually affects commercial mixes, especially those intended for vegetables or for plants grown in the open field.
Planting a plant in a flowerpot that is too large can also lead to the formation of white bloom on the ground. The plant here is not able to assimilate moisture, and it evaporates and draws salts to the surface of the earth.
Excessive feeding also leads to the formation of white bloom. Nutrient solutions should not be added with a higher concentration than 1 g / l, and for ferns and orchids - 0.5 g / l.
White bloom on the soil indoor plants too hard water can also be generated. It is softened by boiling, but better then still to defend and drain from the sediment. The addition of oxalic acid will virtually eliminate total or carbonate hardness. Usually it is required to make no more than 22.5 mg of oxalic acid per liter of water.
It should also be taken into account that if the indoor air is too dry, evaporation from the surface of the ground in the flower pot increases, which can lead to the appearance of a white bloom. For example, in closed greenhouses and greenhouses, there is never a salt crust on the ground.
And in a flower pot, there may be common mold on the ground with a white bloom. It can be defined by the fact that it is soft, does not smudge or crunch when rubbed with your fingers. For adult plants, it is not dangerous, however, it indicates excessive watering.
How to save indoor plants if there is a white bloom in a pot on the ground?
In addition to the above measures, you can improve the ventilation in the room and regulate the watering of the plants. It is also necessary to remove the top layer of earth with a white bloom and pour in a new potting mix. To get rid of mold, you can sprinkle cinnamon powder on the soil in your flower pot. It has good antiseptic properties.
White bloom in a flower pot is one of the most common problems in indoor floriculture. Many people begin to notice that the topsoil begins to turn white over time. It is difficult to determine with the naked eye the nature of such a phenomenon.
Why is the soil in pots covered with a white coating?
Experts in floriculture distinguish two main reasons: fungal (bacteriological) and salt (mineral).
Salt protrusion
The salt reason is as follows:
- Watering the soil with ordinary unfiltered tap water can form a white coating in indoor flower pots. The fact is that most of such water is excessively heavy, which accelerates the liming of the soil after repeated irrigation. The lime layer makes it difficult to oxygenate the soil.
White bloom in flower pots: causes and methods of struggle
To avoid this, you should settle the water at room temperature for at least 24 hours before watering. Or water the plants light solution citric acid: 1 teaspoon in 1 liter of water.
- A white layer on the surface of the soil in a pot may turn out to be salt, which forms due to too dense drainage or oversaturation of the soil mineral fertilizers... During the dormant period of the plant, the soil should be mixed with lighter soil and the amount of bottom drainage should be reduced. And also to reduce the amount of dressings. If this trouble appeared during the active phase of flowering, then only the top layer of soil can be removed and a layer of new soil can be added. Or additionally sprinkle the ground with expanded clay, which will absorb excess moisture and create a decorative look.
- Insufficient watering of the plant. There should be enough water to keep the plant from drying out. Water the flowers according to the watering recommendations for each specific plant species.
Fungal infection
Another unpleasant reason why the soil in the pot is covered with a white coating is fungus. Mold is practically harmless to mature and healthy plants, but damaging to seedlings and can affect the condition of a weakened flower.
A fungal infection is formed:
- due to waterlogged soil in the pot;
- at low temperatures;
- in poorly ventilated areas.
Or, the spores of the fungus may already be in the soil in which the plant is planted. In this case, frequent watering contributes to the increased development of bacteria. To avoid this, it is worth watering the ground only when its top layer dries up. The room should be regularly ventilated. Special antifungal agents for the soil cope well with the fungus.
To understand why there is a white bloom on the ground in a pot with your favorite flower, you do not need to have special knowledge in botany, it is enough not to overdo it in caring for it and follow basic requirements.
Related articles:
|
Lily in a pot
Lilia - this beautiful garden flower can be grown in indoor conditions... To do this, you need to select the appropriate pot, soil, and disinfect the bulbs. The adopted plant should be watered and sprayed often and abundantly, do not forget to feed. |
Potted heather
The heather plant is known to many for its lush bloom... Many growers would like to grow it at home. To do this, you must comply with certain requirements for caring for a flower, which are described in the article. |
|
Orchid aerial roots - what to do?
Many people like the orchid flower due to its beautiful outward appearance... But it happens that after acquiring a plant, one has to face such a problem as the appearance of aerial roots. The article explains the reasons for their appearance and how to handle them. |
Orchid roots crawled out of the pot
Orchids delight our eyes with their unusual, very delicate and extremely long flowering. Their roots, like indicators, are able to show us that we are not properly caring for a flower. This becomes especially obvious when a large number of roots stick out from the pot in all directions. |
A salt crust of white or white-yellow color on the surface of the potting soil mixture appears due to the predominance of purely physical evaporation of water from the soil over transpiration by the plant.
There are several reasons.
The texture of the soil is too heavy. As a result - its high capillarity and intensive pulling of water to the soil surface.
Obstructed drainage at the bottom of the pot and, as a result, evaporation from the soil surface, as the main path of water consumption.
Irrigation errors: poor watering, when the amount of water applied during one irrigation is enough only to wet the surface layer.
Watering may be sparse, but should be plentiful, flushing the entire soil mass.
Fertilized potting mix. This is the fault of many of their manufacturers, especially when they prepare mixtures for vegetables. In general, this is a problem when using purchased formulations. For some reason, manufacturers in the mass are sure that a fertilized soil mixture from the heart is a virtue. It’s as if they don’t know that all transplants are only on an uncomfortable environment! The next careful feeding only after clear signs of rooting.
Violation of the principle of correspondence between the volume of soil in a pot and the assimilation capacity of the roots of a given plant. There should not be significant volumes of soil not utilized by the root system.
Otherwise, again, the predominance of physical evaporation over transpiration.
Errors in dosing top dressing (overdose), as well as making dressings during the dormant period of the plant. For some reason, the current manufacturers began to recommend the concentration of solutions from 2 g / l and more. This is not true. A guaranteed non-toxic concentration in the general case can be recognized as 1 g / l, and for certain groups of plants (ferns, orchids) 0.5 g / l and even 0.1 g / l.
And of course, the notorious softness of the irrigation water. Look at its quality, everyone in your city. If the amount of water required for irrigation is insignificant, you can use filtration using some sophisticated filter with an ion exchanger: chlorine, calcium, magnesium will remove, and, for example, will add useful potassium. But this is not for bucket volumes - it is expensive. Oxalic acid is a reliable softener, but litmus control is required because the initial content of Ca and Mg in water is generally unknown.
Dry air. Dry air strongly stimulates physical evaporation, which again leads to the transfer of salts to the soil surface. Salts that come with water from the soil, after evaporation, remain in the leaves - this is the normal mechanism of mineral nutrition. But with increased evaporation, excess salts accumulate in the leaves, and over time their concentration rises to a dangerous level. In dry air, evaporation from the soil surface is also great, and salts accumulate there too. Soil salinity appears (in the form of plaque on the soil surface), which provokes plant diseases. In the room where the flowers grow, the humidity of the air must be constantly monitored and regulated. That is why salt crust does not exist in the "bottle" culture, in various closed greenhouses and greenhouses. However, raising the air humidity in an apartment is an even more dreary task than cleaning irrigation water.
Of course, any of the above reasons can be combined!
And yet - white bloom on the surface of the earth in a pot can be caused by the development of fungal microflora from excessive watering and in order to get rid of it, you need to water the plant only after the top layer of the earth in the pot has dried.
Sometimes mold lives in purchased land. Not necessarily from excessive watering, often purchased land is just that. One even gets the impression that from one container it is scattered into different packages. Yes, from one package the soil can "bloom" with white mold in one case, or "wait" for how long. Adult plants usually do not suffer greatly from this, but there is some danger.
Why does a white bloom sometimes appear on the soil of indoor plants?
But young seedlings may die. Mold, and with ordinary watering in especially sad cases, grows and permeates the entire earth in the pot. Then you need to replant, completely change the whole land, use fungicides - in general, a long song. But a white-brown bloom sometimes appears due to waterlogging of the soil. It has also been noticed that plaque on the surface depends on the composition of the earth, the more peat in the ground, the stronger the plaque on the surface (see item 1).
There are many ways to get rid of. There is less white and any other plaque if you cover the soil in a pot with expanded clay on top. Then, on the expanded clay itself, a white dried sediment appears, from time to time collect it and wash it, then into place.
It is recommended to sprinkle the soil with river sand and loosen the topsoil (along with the sand). Loosening the soil with the addition of sand is very beneficial for plant roots. You can remove the top layer and add high-quality leaf or humus soil.
You can simply remove all the white layer of the earth and add a new one.
The stores sell a soil deoxidizer. The top layer of the earth with a bloom is removed and a little deeper and a deoxidizer is poured. It is good to water the flowers with aquarium water.
If it is still mold, drying out the soil gives a temporary suspension of the process, but the next time it starts to water, it starts with a vengeance. Collect it and sprinkle the soil in the pot with activated crushed charcoal, this prevents rotting and mold growth. In addition to coal, periodically loosen the top layer, add another, healthy soil. Well, in the future, it is better to transplant the plant into a normal substrate, wash the pot with a stiff brush and laundry soap... From serious measures, you can shed soil with foundation, homom or oxychom.
Infection of a plant with a fungus starts a slow death process. The symptoms are as follows: yellowing and falling leaves, stopping the development of buds that do not bloom. If you do not take action, home plants infected with powdery mildew will die, and only bare branches covered with a whitish bloom will remain in their place.
How to deal with white bloom
Disease prevention
Before starting an active fight against mold on indoor plants, it is necessary to find out the cause of its formation and solve this problem. Otherwise, all actions will be in vain - the mold will come back again and again. Another reason for this strategy: knowing the source of the problem, it will be easier in the future to avoid the return of the fungus.
The first thing to look out for is the humidity level in the room. Musty wet air — ideal conditions for the development of mold spores. Start by organizing good ventilation of your indoor plants.
Another one probable cause- feeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers. Change the diet of your plants: Try feeding the soil with potash and phosphate fertilizers. 
Traditional methods of treating white plaque
Prevention is very important, but if the enemy has already taken you by surprise, you need radical methods fight. Continue to maintain a healthy indoor environment: regularly ventilate and water the plants, make sure the plants get enough sunlight, find any leaves affected by the fungus and prune them.
The very treatment for powdery mildew should be started as soon as possible, because the spores of the fungus spread very quickly.
Having no experience of such work, people often turn to folk methods that are full of forums on the Internet.
For example, some people advise using slurry to spray the plants.
Someone assures that effective method is spraying with a solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of soda and soap.
Garlic tincture is also recognized as an effective weapon against plant fungus.
Why is there white bloom in a flower pot and what to do about it
You can try all these methods and be convinced by your own experience of the effectiveness of one or another. But experience shows: folk methods are ineffective, and the effect that can be achieved, unfortunately, turns out to be short-lived.
Not knowing how to deal with white bloom professionally, many naively rely on efficiency folk methods... Of course, by typing in a search engine the query “ powdery mildew treatment ", there are many original home methods to destroy the disease. Someone advises to breed slurry and spray flowers with it, someone suggests a more complex recipe: spray the plants with an interval of 5-7 days, first with a solution of potassium permanganate, after a solution of soda ash and soap, finish everything with tincture of garlic. As practice shows, the percentage of effectiveness of home recipes is low, as a rule, the owners of the "home garden" who are keen on the struggle lose precious time, which leads to the death of plants.
Powdery mildew treatment
You can try to cure the plants yourself. This will require antibiotics. Use streptomycin (250 U / ml), penicillin (100 U / ml), and terramycin (100 U / ml) for spraying. This mixture is diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio and used for spraying on affected plants.
The antibiotic effect can be very good. However, not one hundred percent.
Professional solution to powdery mildew problem
The specialists of the sanitary service "ECO-STOLITSA" have all the necessary resources to solve the problem of mold on domestic plants. To order professional disinfection, just call the phone number or order a free call back. The departure of the master in Moscow and the Moscow region is possible already on the day of your application.
White bloom on soil in flower pots- a problem encountered not only by novice flower growers, but also by experienced lovers of home oases. Plaque brings with it many troubles: the flower becomes lethargic, mold and rot appear, roots rot, midges begin to fly.
Many believe that the main reason white bloom on the ground is an excess of moisture, but this is not entirely true. We will try to understand this problem and find out the causes of white bloom on the ground in flower pots and how to remove it at home.
If white or white has already formed on the surface yellow bloom, which means that the flower was filled with hard water. Plaque is a calcareous sediment that forms when it is watered with unsettled water. It is already becoming clear why white bloom appears on the ground in flower pots.
What to do if white bloom appears on the ground in flower pots?
- Remove the root of the plant from the planter and let it dry for 1 hour.
- Transplant the plant into fresh soil.
- If there is no earth, then the contents of the slide must be shaken out and dried in the microwave.
- Spill it with boiling water and bactericidal agents.
- Plant a flower and dry again for 10-15 minutes.
- Further, it can be reused.
Is the soil in the pot covered with a green or white coating (mold)? It will be much easier to fix the situation. It is necessary to pour sand, ash or clay on top of the main lump. They will help by absorbing excess water. You can use another option: fluff the soil well and make deep punctures in it, they will also rid the contents of excess moisture
You can just lay the ground in a pots paper towels- The easiest way.
Remember to check the drainage holes in the pots, they are often clogged and excess water accumulates at the bottom of the container, which causes rot and an unpleasant odor.
What to do:
- Exclude irrigation with unsettled water.
- Before watering, you can add 0.5 teaspoon of citric acid to the water, or juice from one lemon.
- Remove the top layer of soil and fill the place with fresh leafy substrate.
- Install water purification filters in the house.
- It is useful to lower peat bags into the water and defend it with them.
For prevention purposes, it is useful to pour expanded clay or coarse river sand on top of the ground in a flower pot and fluff the ground.
Mold control methods
The constant moisture of the earth provokes its infection with mold, the flowerpot becomes a real breeding ground. Proper watering and free drainage holes prevent stagnation. But what if the soil is already infected and bugs start?
- Stop watering.
- Dry the root system.
- Replace the topsoil to a depth of 2-3 cm.
If these measures are not successful, then it will be necessary to do a complete plant transplant.
Plant transplant
To do this, the earthen lump along with the roots is pulled out of the pot and left to dry for 2 days. If a ceramic planter is used for planting, then it must be boiled for 20 minutes, if the planter is plastic or plastic, it is better to get rid of it, since there are fungal spores on its edges, which will still retain fertility for several years.
After two days, you need to gently shake the roots and disinfect them. The old soil must be thrown away, and before planting the new one must be steamed in a water bath or in a microwave oven.
Expanded clay must necessarily fall on the bottom of the pot, then earth is poured, a flower is planted and the top is sprinkled with coarse river sand. What will it give? First of all, the regulation of air flow to the roots, and hence a decrease in humidity. Similar method will also help if the overflow is small and random.
Soil disinfection
The soil disinfection method is considered one of the most effective. It not only helps to eliminate odor and mold, but also completely destroys spores.
The procedure is carried out according to the plan:
- Clear the roots of the soil as much as possible.
- Collect the soil and place in a container.
- Pour boiling water over it.
- Pierce in the oven for 30 minutes.
- Cool completely.
- Treat the pot with a disinfectant.
- Pour the soil into the pots and plant the plant.
The soil can also be kept in a water bath. For this purpose, water is poured into a saucepan, a colander or sieve with gauze rolled in several layers is placed on top. When the water boils, fill up the soil and cover with a lid. Thus, the earth is steamed for at least 30 minutes. The plant is planted after the soil has completely cooled down.
The earth must be fertilized or nourished with minerals, you can add yeast.
Commercial mold products
The purchased products help to remove moldiness perfectly. Today, a large number of them are sold in specialized flower shops. The seller will select the necessary drug for the intended purpose for treating the soil cover or the plant itself, and tell you what to do with it.
It is always worth paying attention to the instructions, which indicate for which plants it is intended. Otherwise, the flower may get burned or die.
Also consider the parameters for choosing a chemical:
- Features of the plant.
- For what kind of soil.
- Availability of applied fertilizers in the last month.
- The amount of fungal infection spread.
It is best to select a ready-made solution of organic origin. They have already selected ingredients that block the further multiplication of fungal spores in the soil.
Traditional methods of treating white plaque
There are also folk remedies fight against mold on the ground, but they are effective only at the very beginning of the disease.
- after planting the plant, sprinkle the ground with sand or expanded clay;
- if the appearance of mold has already begun, transplant the plant to another land, and on top put a few cloves of garlic until completely dry, then replace them with new ones;
- when a white bloom appears, remove the top layer of the earth, pour in a fresh one, and put 5-6 tablets of activated carbon on top of the soil;
- a solution of citric acid will help get rid of mold, on liter jar 0.5 teaspoon. It can be watered only on those plants that accept acidic soil.
Prevention of the earth against white plaque (mold)
Fighting a fungus in a flower pot is not always easy, it takes more than one day, it happens that a week is not enough. Therefore, it is always easier to prevent infection than to cure it later.
Preventive measures:
- Constant loosening of the soil, especially after watering. This will provide additional air intake and evaporation of excess moisture.
- Providing good and reliable drainage. This is one of the main conditions for planting a flower. It is important that it allows water to pass through well.
- Correct selection of a planter or pot. The planter must be selected depending on the shape and location of the roots.
- Feed regularly. Good quality fertilizers will help the plant withstand stress.
- Monthly treatment with a weak solution of potassium manganese. Potassium permanganate will disinfect the soil.
- Ventilation of premises. Daily ventilation of the room is necessary, but this does not mean at all that it is necessary to arrange drafts.
- Creation of an optimal level of humidity.
By following simple and simple tips, you can prevent the appearance of white bloom and fungi such as mold.
Hello dear visitor of our site. You are having a problem with white bloom on the ground in your houseplants. This is not as rare as you might think at first glance. A lot of people are looking for this request on the Internet, and we decided to help them with solving this problem.
There are two types of white bloom on the ground:
- White and dry - salt residues from evaporated liquid
- Mold white
Plaque on dry ground in flowers
When this plaque appears, the flowers will develop poorly and, if nothing is done, they will eventually die. A white dry layer forms on dry soil due to different factors one of them is hard water.
Hard water
If you water your indoor flowers with tap liquid, then most likely you will have a problem with white bloom. This is due to the fact that tap water is hard, and there are several ways to soften it:
- Special means
If you do not want to bother with softening the water, rain or melt water (snow) is suitable for watering potted flowers. Collect the rainwater in a clean container and use it to water your plantings.
How to soften water for irrigation
As mentioned earlier, you can use one of three methods to soften the water.
To do this, you need to boil the water and let it settle for a day. Pour water into a container for irrigation, and remove the sediment. Plants can be watered with this liquid, but some experts do not recommend this. after boiling, the water loses oxygen and this will not benefit the plants. But such a liquid cannot bring much harm either, so you can use this method if there is no other way out.
The white layer is the remnants of the salt that is present in the water, they also make the water hard. To remove them, you can freeze the water. Because salt crystals and water crystals have different freezing temperatures, then when we freeze hard water, water first freezes, and only after it is salt. Therefore, as soon as the water turned into ice, we take it out, and drain the rest of the water in which the salt remains. We defrost the ice and water our potted flowers with it.
Special means
To do this, go to your garden store and buy a water softener. Use this product to soften the water. After using the product, it is better to let the water settle. For the best water softening, follow the instructions on the package. If there is no instruction on the package, you need to buy good remedy where is the instruction.
Other causes of whiteness on earth
The heavy texture of the soil in the pot contributes to the appearance of a white layer. In this case, there is a high capillarity of the soil. The water comes out to the surface of the soil and evaporates, leaving behind salt residues. The same thing happens when the planter for the flower is too large. You water the soil a lot to moisten the entire perimeter of the pot, but the vegetation cannot absorb that much water, and it eventually evaporates on the soil surface and leaves a light layer. The rapid evaporation of water on the soil surface is affected by dry air in an unventilated room.
If all of these factors do not apply to you, then you are using a lot of feeding in the form of nutrient solutions.
How to get rid of white soil in pots
Use softened water, ventilate the room, transplant the plants into containers appropriate to their size. Remove white soil and replace with new earthy mixture.
Mold on flower soil 
If the plaque is soft and doesn't crunch when you touch it with your finger, then it's just mold. It appears due to over-watering your indoor plants and high humidity in the room. To get rid of mold, you need to water less, remove a layer of moldy soil, add a new earthen mixture. It will not be superfluous to treat the soil with an antifungal agent (fungicide). Examples of such drugs: Sarfun (Sarfun 500 SC), Topsin (Topsin M 500 SC).
Soil color is one of its important external properties, most accessible for observation and widely used in soil science for assigning names to soils (black soil, red soil, yellow soil, gray soil, etc.).
Soil color is in direct proportion to its chemical composition, soil formation conditions, humidity.
The color of the horizon depends on the presence of a certain amount of coloring matter in the soil. The upper horizons are colored with humus in dark colors(gray and brown). How large quantity the soil contains humus, the darker the horizon is. The presence of iron and manganese gives the soil brown, ocher, red tones. Whitish, white tones suggest the presence of podzolization processes (washing out of decomposition products of the mineral part of the soil), salinization, salinization, carbonization, i.e. the presence of silica, kaolin, calcium and magnesium carbonate, gypsum and other salts in the soil.
Soils are rarely colored in any one pure color. Usually, the color of soils is quite complex and consists of several colors (for example, gray-brown, whitish-gray, reddish-brown, etc.), with the name of the predominant color being put in last place.
Thus, to determine the color of the soil horizon, it is necessary:
a) set the predominant color;
b) determine the saturation of this color (dark, light colored);
v) mark the shades of the base color. For example, brownish light gray, brownish brown, light, greyish fawn, etc.).
When describing the soil, it is necessary to indicate the degree of color uniformity. For example, brownish-gray, heterogeneous, against a gray-gray background, brown and rust stains and smears. Such a description helps to better characterize the soil and evaluate it genetically.
When determining the color of soil in field conditions it is necessary to take into account the moisture content of the soil and the degree of illumination of the soil section. Wet soil has a darker color than air-dry soil, so it is very important to indicate the degree of moisture when describing the soil. This facilitates further cameral processing of field materials.
Much also depends on the illumination of the soil by the sun. The lighting should be uniform over the entire soil profile, as the soil looks darker in the shade and it is easy to make mistakes when determining its color. It is better to determine the color of the soil when the sun is high than early in the morning or in the evening.
It is advisable to check the color of the soil in samples brought to an air-dry state, that is, well dried in a dry room or in the air (but not in the sun). To achieve uniformity in the determination of soil color, a color scale can be compiled from soil samples common in the study area and used as a reference when describing a soil profile.
The color depends on the substances that accumulate during soil formation. The most important for the color of soils are 3 groups of compounds:
humus - black,
iron - red and blue,
Si + CaCO3 + H4SiO3 - white.
Photo: Soil Science
The most typical color is black. Humus is formed as a result of the sod process (mixed forest, grass (sod)). Pure sod can form under oak, hornbeam, ash (sod-brown soil process). Humus has the consistency of tar, everything that comes into contact with it turns black. All the upper horizons of our soils are colored black (6-8%). There are also derivatives of this color: dark gray (5%), light gray (1-3%), gray (4%). Coloring depends on the quantitative content of humus. The white color is due to the podzolic process.
Process progress:
A) Coniferous shady forest;
B) Sour coniferous litter, forest litter;
C) Flush water regime, predominance of precipitation over evaporation;
D) Mineralization of sour coniferous litter;
E) The release of mineral elements from the dead inorganic substance, and organic acids (malic, oxalic, formic) from the dead organic matter;
E) Destruction of the mineral part of the soil or its solid phase by organic acids;
G) Removal of mineral elements formed as a result of the destruction of the solid phase of the soil in the underlying horizons. In connection with the removal to the lower horizons of the top, they are lightened to approaching white; derivatives: yellow, light yellow, fawn color. Clarification occurs in the A2 horizon. The intensity of the color depends on the course of the podzolic processes: the stronger they are, the closer the color is to whitish color. Allocate: strong (whitish), medium (yellow), weak (fawn) podzolic processes. Also White color soils can be conditioned by the carbonate process. Where there is a lot of calcium, there is also a carbonate process. (this is great)
Red gives many shades: brown, light, dark orange, chestnut, etc.
The blue color is a swamp process. Derivatives: blue, light, dark, just blue, purple. Hue is related to the intensity of the process. Parameters responsible for the process:
1. Permanent excess of moisture;
2. As a consequence of the first, anaerobic conditions;
3. The activity of anaerobic microorganisms, under their influence, iron (red) is oxidized into blue iron. Horizons with blue tint- gley. The soil is bullshit, and the peat, as a result, is good. Rapid mineralization of peat leads to depletion and death of fertile soil.