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The choice of an ax for the arrangement and work in a field camp, sharpening an ax in the field. Draenic Pathfinder Acquisition Guide - WoW JP

“It’s not a fur coat that warms a man, but an ax,” says folk wisdom. An indispensable assistant in the household, the "right hand" of any carpenter - it's all about a completely unpretentious tool called an ax.

Whether it is an ax for a summer residence or for professional use, the demand for this tool will never disappear.

A conscientious attitude to operation, the ability to properly prepare the tool for work, will help not only to avoid trouble, but also serve as a guarantee of the successful completion of the planned work.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make an axe. Having understood the technology and studied practical recommendations, making an ax with your own hands will not be difficult even for a non-professional.

Ax piercing attachment

When choosing a piercing metal part for a future ax, the quality of the material deserves special attention. Parts made according to GOST, that's what you need.

Markings MRTU, OST or TU on the nozzle should be avoided, because these designations allow for changes in technology during the pouring of the part (there may be the addition of third-party substances that affect the quality of the material).

When the blade strikes another, there should be no serifs on both. The curvature of the material, the presence of any kind of dents, the curved axis of the blade are completely excluded.

Significance of the handle

You can choose the optimal length of the ax handle based on the growth parameters of the master and the impact force. The strength, in turn, directly depends on the length, so when working with a large ax, it will be easier to chop logs of firewood.

Before making a choice, it is worth deciding on the desired result:

  • heavy version of the tool (total weight 1kg.-1.4kg., handle length from 55 to 65 cm);
  • lightweight version (weight 0.8 kg-1 kg., with a length of 40 to 60 cm.).

The quality of the wood from which the ax will be made is of great importance. Not every type of wood is suitable for manufacturing. Often, birch is used for this purpose (parts located near the roots or stem growths).

There are also handles made of oak, acacia, maple and other hardwoods. All selected blanks need long-term drying.

After the wooden blank dries well, the contours of the handle are drawn on it, according to a pre-made template. To avoid slipping of the hand during operation and to increase the convenience of the ax, it is necessary to provide a thickening at the end of the handle.

A knife, a chisel, an electric jigsaw will help to cut the contour.

After trying on the ax nozzle and not finding any signs of a loose fit of the parts, you can safely continue to improve the ax handle. Glass will help to scrape the tool, and sandpaper is useful for grinding.

Planting a piercing nozzle on the handle

Properly following the instructions for the nozzle will lead to excellent results:

The eye of the piercing part must be adjusted to the upper part of the ax handle, the excess part of the wood can be easily removed with a knife.

Make a mark on the handle where the stabbing part will end. To do this, you need to place the handle lying down, in order to avoid inaccuracies. Divide the resulting segment in half, make an appropriate mark.

Holding the ax handle, standing, it is necessary to make a cut to the second mark. This is done with a hacksaw and used for a wedge.

Plan out a wooden wedge similar to a pre-purchased metal wedge. The width is equal to the size of the eye, the thickness of the product is from 5 to 10 mm, and the length is equal to the depth of cut.

Putting a board on the table, it is necessary to put on it the piercing part, located upside down. Next, put this part on the handle and slowly start tapping it on the board.

Periodically, you need to change the method of tapping from the stabbing part to tapping with an ax handle.

As soon as the piercing part enters the eye, it is necessary to put the ax vertically and insert a wooden wedge. A hacksaw for metal will help to cut off all unnecessary materials, which as a result of the nozzle will be on top.

At the end, oil is applied to the handle, and the product is thoroughly dried. The correctness of execution can be compared with the photo of an ax to the country house, posted below.

Blade sharpening

In order to avoid the hassle arising at the time of work, it is necessary to responsibly approach the sharpening of the blade. Regulatory indicators of compliance with GOST:

  • sharpening angle for construction work is 20-30 °;
  • for carpentry 35°.

Compliance with the requirements in the amount of sharpening is very important. The mismatch of the degree leads to the fact that when chopping with an ax, the blade gets stuck in the wood.

During the initial sharpening, minor damage, chips and potholes are eliminated. After the secondary sharpening is carried out. The end of the process is the grinding process, performed with a fine-grained bar.

A hand-made tool according to the instructions is always the best ax that can be in the country.


Photos of the best ax options for giving

The quality of a hand tool is one of the important criteria for its evaluation when choosing. A practical, convenient and reliable tool significantly increases labor productivity, facilitates the process itself and eliminates the possibility of injury. This is especially true for such a tool as an ax.

Its use provides for the presence of an intense dynamic load, which is characterized by a particular injury risk. With inept handling of the tool, the ax often flies off the handle and injures the worker. To prevent this from happening, you must first learn how to plant an ax on an ax handle.

About varieties

Today there are about ten varieties of chopping tools. And before putting an ax on an ax handle, it is necessary to determine what type it belongs to: carpentry, combat, tourist, or is it a woodcutter's tool. Although all axes consist of a handle and a metal part, each type of weapon differs in its purpose and design features. Special recommendations apply to each on how to properly plant an ax on an ax handle. The photo below, for example, presents the features of fastening the metal part to the handle in a carpenter's ax. In other types of weapons, it is somewhat different.

How are the axes attached?

There are several methods for attaching the handle to the metal part:

  • Welding. Provides reliability and durability of the tool.
  • Manufacture of an ax in the form of a solid tool. Characterized by rigidity and strong recoil.
  • Gluing method in a special chamber using epoxy materials. For ax handles, polymeric materials are used, which are very difficult to glue at home. Drying chambers are required for such work.
  • Putting the metal part on the handle with further wedging. This connection method is considered the most ideal for doing at home.

To successfully complete the work, you need good qualifications, time and an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to plant an ax on an ax handle. Samomus can cope with this if you have the skills and the necessary tools. In case of failure, if the metal chopping part is not securely attached to the handle or the structure has loosened over time, the procedure of mounting and wedging should be repeated again.

How to plant an ax on an ax handle?

Despite the seeming simplicity of connecting with the help of pushing and wedging, this work is not easy to do. It has its own nuances that should be taken into account. To facilitate the process, professional carpenters recommend following a step-by-step instruction that contains the following steps:

  • preparation for work;
  • production of steel and wooden products for wedging;
  • planting and wedging.

Start. Preparatory stage

Before starting work, you must:

  1. Buy an axe. As a material for its manufacture, according to experienced carpenters, dried birch is ideal. This tree is very popular, as it has all the necessary properties for this. When choosing a handle, you need to consider the thickness of the product and its shape.
  2. It is recommended to check the handle for a comfortable grip. Ignoring this aspect will lead to the need to perform unnatural compensatory power movements during felling, and this, in turn, is fraught with rapid fatigue.
  3. Fit the acquired ax to the eye of the ax. The job is to use a knife or other woodworking tool to trim the handle to the desired shape (straight or conical). Tapered lugs are considered the best as they provide a very secure fit.
  4. Make a cut at the top of the handle. This work is done at the end. A cut is a longitudinal groove, which is performed using You can make one (along the end) or several cuts (three side and one longitudinal). It depends on how the master decides to plant the ax. According to professionals, the most effective is a longitudinal cut with four side cuts. An important nuance at this stage is the width and depth of the cut. The resulting groove must be hidden in the eye, otherwise, when wedging or during operation of the ax, its handle may split. The width must match the thickness of the wedges. But at the same time, they should not enter the cuts either too easily (the sawing procedure loses its meaning) or tight, since this can lead to splitting of the ax handle.
  5. Before you put the ax on the handle, you need to align the axis of the blade and the axis of the handle in the same plane.

Wedge preparation

Reliable fastening of the chopping element with a handle is possible under the condition of high-quality wedging. To do this, the master will need wooden and metal wedges.

You can buy them at a hardware store or make your own. The shape and dimensions of the wedges must correspond to the type of cut and the material from which the ax handle is made. For a wooden wedge, dried birch wood is suitable. For a metal product, hard tin (shovel) is suitable.

driving

Often beginner home craftsmen ask questions: how to properly plant an ax on an ax handle, how to hammer wooden and steel wedges?

Hammering is an easy process. This work should be started if the handle and wedges are already fully prepared.

The first to score the longitudinal is performed with light hammer blows. It is undesirable to knock hard, as this can flatten the tree, reducing the stability of the connection. After the wedge fills the cut with itself, the remains must be carefully cut using a hacksaw blade. The work is considered successful if, during the test, the ax mounted on the handle holds firmly and does not stagger.

wedging

According to the belief of beginners, wooden wedges should be from the same wood as the ax handle. But it's not.

  • First of all, wood must be durable.
  • The direction of the fibers must also be taken into account. It should be parallel to the narrowing of the wedge. This direction will prevent the latter from breaking when driven into the cut. A broken wedge does not perform high-quality expansion of the ax handle to the sides. Wedging is considered successful when the wedge has completely filled the entire space of the cut and it is impossible to remove it.
  • In the manufacture of wedges, it is important that the dimensions of the transverse products correspond to the size of the eye.
  • In some cases, the lug may have gaps. You can fix them with gauze or bandage soaked in the material protects the wood from getting wet and performs a reinforcing function. To perform reinforcement, it is necessary to wrap several layers of gauze around the upper part of the handle before inserting the ax. The resin is poured into the cuts and fills all the existing voids and cracks. After it hardens, the wedges are clogged. At the same time, wooden wedges are driven first, and after that, iron wedges. The distance between them should be at least 0.3 cm. The iron wedge at the end is bent with one edge so as to cover the wooden one.

Which side to put the ax on the handle?

Features of planting an ax depend on its shape. For standard products of Soviet production, the conical shape of the chopping part is characteristic. This enhances its wedging qualities and eliminates errors when mounted on the handle.

According to the rules, you need to put on an ax in such a way that the wedge and the end of the handle protrude 0.5 cm beyond the eye. This is possible if the ax is planted with its narrow part towards the wedge, and its wide part towards the ax handle. With this mounting, the worker can, if necessary, put the loose chopping part back into place by tapping the ax on something hard. After that, you need to re-drive the wedge, but deeper.

In carpentry, reverse ax landing is often used. It is necessary in those rare cases, if the ax is used not as the main tool, but as an auxiliary tool to hedge or trim something. The reverse method of the nozzle is mainly used for sledgehammers and splitters. They do not have wedges. The entire load goes to the extreme part of the handle, which holds the metal part of the ax.

In conclusion

Depending on what shape the metal chopping part is chosen, it is decided which side to put the ax on the ax handle. It is important that the tool is comfortable and ergonomic.

Following the step-by-step instructions, you can quickly prepare the ax for work yourself.

A good ax can hardly be replaced when working on setting up and arranging a field camp. There are many different shapes and sizes of axes. It is generally accepted that the larger the ax, the easier and safer it is to work with, although such axes are heavy and not very convenient to carry and store.

The choice of an ax for the arrangement and work in a field camp, sharpening an ax in the field.

When choosing an ax, the most important thing is to achieve some compromise between its weight, size and ease of use. It is worth thinking and weighing all the pros and cons. Maybe a small hatchet weighing from 500 grams to 1 kilogram is more suitable for you, rather than a large cleaver weighing several kilograms?

With a small ax you will not be able to knock down a large tree, but on the other hand, it is easier and easier for them to chop small branches, preparing firewood for a fire. Just do not forget that with a small hatchet it is much easier to injure yourself or injure yourself.

When choosing an ax, the focus should be on its blade. By and large, ax blades come in three shapes - convex, concave and flat. Each blade shape is good for its task and a certain range of work. And of course, each person may have their own preferences in this regard. The most versatile is considered to be an ax with a slightly concave blade and a rounded cutting edge.

Convex ax blade.

An ax with a convex blade is good for chopping wood, but if the blade is too convex, it will not be able to go deep into the tree, and more effort will have to be applied.

Concave ax blade.

An ax with a concave blade will be good for work that does not require deep penetration into the wood. For example, for cutting branches from tree trunks. However, if the blade is too concave, it will be difficult to pull it out of the wood in case of jamming.

Flat ax blade.

Ax with a flat blade is the most versatile and can be used for a variety of jobs.

The shape of the cutting edge of the ax is also very important - rounded or flat. An ax with a rounded cutting edge will be easier and deeper into the tree, which means it will require less effort when working with it.

It is more convenient to chop with a well-sharpened ax not only for practical reasons, because it takes much less effort, but also for safety reasons. A blunt ax that slips when you try to cut something with it can cause serious damage.

The principles of sharpening an ax are the same as those of a knife, but the techniques are somewhat different. When sharpening a knife, it is driven with a blade along a grindstone, and vice versa with an ax - the abrasive moves along its blade. To facilitate the process of sharpening an ax, you can purchase a special sharpener, for example.

The first stage of sharpening an ax.

Produced with a file. This step will be needed if the cutting edge of the ax is severely blunt or damaged. In the process of sharpening, a large layer of metal is removed from it, so it is not advisable to bring the ax to such a state. The stage can be skipped if the ax is dull or not very damaged and go directly to the second stage.

Turning the blade towards you, move the file along the cutting edge along its entire length, then turn the ax to the other side and repeat the operation. Sharpening continues until all notches or dents are gone. Both sides must be treated evenly.

The second stage of sharpening the ax.

Produced with a coarse grinding stone. Wet the flat of the whetstone with water and holding it at an angle to the ax blade, move it in a clockwise circle from left to right. Turn the blade over and do the same operation on the other side of the cutting edge. Repeat the entire procedure until the blade is the desired sharpness.

The third stage of sharpening the ax.

It involves straightening the cutting edge of the ax blade and is made with a fine-grained whetstone. Just as in the second stage, make circular movements, but already counterclockwise, from right to left.

Work with an ax in the field and its storage.

Before you start chopping wood, you should protect yourself and those around you, who are convinced that there is no one in the immediate vicinity. In addition, you need to make sure that there are no obstacles from above, above your head, such as overhanging branches. For cutting very thick firewood, it is better to use a saw, it will be faster and safer. Inspect the ax before work. Check if the blade is well set. If the ax handle is damaged or there is a danger that the blade will fly off, then it is better not to risk it and repair it.

Do not try to cut thick branches at a right angle, in which case the ax may bounce. Land the first blow at a 45 degree angle. The second blow is at the same angle, but from the other side. You will get a V-shaped notch. Gradually go deeper until you cut the entire branch. Chopping wood is very tiring. If you're tired, take a break and rest. A tired person makes many mistakes.

It is not advisable to chop wood in poor lighting. Do not leave the ax on the ground, if someone steps on it, they can hurt their leg. Stick the ax into the stump. Do not stick into a living tree, this can damage it, and the ax itself will surely fall off. If there are no stumps nearby, lean the ax against the tree with the butt down. In case of long intervals between work, the ax is best stored in a strong case. The blade is useful with oil so that it does not rust.

Based on the book Life in the Wild.
Bear Grylls.

Flying in Draenor, as we already know, and if you are one of those who want to take off as quickly as possible, then this guide is just for you. However, do not even think that you will get it at an easy price: in order to be able to fly, you will need to earn a number of difficult achievements.

Probably the easiest achievement. To obtain it, you will need to explore all areas of Draenor:

It is worth noting that several characters can work on this achievement at once. For example, by exploring Shadowmoon Valley with one character, other heroes on your account will also receive the achievement. But be careful: only already completed achievements are transferred, and not separately opened areas. While most locations will not cause you any difficulties, some may present a certain difficulty. For your convenience, below are the coordinates of all the areas that are included in the respective achievements.

Shadowmoon Valley

  • Fortress of Suffering - 28.6, 35.6
  • Elodor - 57.8, 26.0
  • Gloomy Grove - 36.1, 27.5
  • Karabor - 79.3, 46.7
  • Shimmering Marsh - 58.0, 59.9
  • Shadow Island - 42.6, 80.2
  • Darktide Nest - 59.9, 80.3
  • Embaari village - 43.2, 35.1
  • Hum "var - 20.5, 13.6
  • Shaz "hum - 41.4, 58.0
  • Socretara Plateau - 44.5, 69.8

Spiers of Arak

  • Admiral Taylor Garrison - 40.0, 49.1
  • Fallen Ax - 39.9, 44.7
  • Bladefist Citadel - 31.2, 28.9
  • Bloodmane Valley - 48.3, 61.4
  • Steamwhistle Workshop - 61.3, 70.3
  • Cape Parosvistov - 56.4, 85.6
  • Howling Bluff - 64.3, 22.0
  • Lost Veil Anzu - 73.1, 34.0
  • Raven's Refuge - 53.7, 51.3
  • Skettis - 52.0, 6.0
  • Southern port - 42.0, 58.7
  • Terrace of Dawn - 50.5, 47.0
  • Marsh of Torment - 36.4, 42.4
  • Wildwind Terrace - 47.4, 52.1
  • Nest Akraz - 41.5, 23.7
  • Nesting Zekk - 62.1, 57.9

Nagrand

  • Ancestral Lands - 38.0, 50.3
  • Gate of Grommashar - 73.1, 68.8
  • Highmaul Harbor - 26.1, 18.8
  • Lok "rat - 58.3, 48.5
  • Guard post Mok "goal - 41.0, 37.6
  • Telaar - 69.0, 64.2
  • Circle of Trials - 80.9, 52.1
  • Zangar Coast - 85.7, 26.9
  • Broken Shore - 42.2, 27.2
  • Gallvalor - 84.9, 50.9
  • Ironfist Harbor - 43.9, 74.9
  • Bastion Mar "goka - 80.4, 67.3
  • Oshu "gun - 47.7, 60.9
  • Ring of Blood - 55.9, 15.2
  • Throne of the Elements - 73.0, 20.6

Frostfire Ridge

  • Bladespire Citadel - 21.2, 42.2
  • Bloodmaul Hold - 41.7,19.8
  • Bones of Agurak - 82.0, 60.0
  • Colossus' Death - 59.1, 23.2
  • Daggermaw Gorge - 36.0, 21.9
  • Frostwind Crag - 28.3, 21.6
  • Brutal Cold Hill - 65.7, 46.9
  • Thunder "gar - 62.6, 57.3
  • Iron Horde Siege Camp - 82.0, 57.4
  • Iron way station - 74.6, 62.7
  • Magnarok - 67.8, 32.3
  • Stonefang Outpost - 46.5, 52.2
  • Costegar - 42.7, 48.3
  • Cracked Plains - 54.4, 42.4
  • Thief "goal - 24.8, 60.1

Gorgrond

  • Grin of Death - 37.7, 75.6
  • Beast Outpost - 45.4, 71.1
  • Intricacies - 50.3, 70.7
  • Crimson Marsh - 50.9, 69.9
  • Stonemaul Arena - 43.0, 66.3
  • Bastion Cliff - 48.6,79.3
  • Crimson Marsh - 53.9, 66.0
  • Thicket Iyu - 61.0, 51.7
  • Gronn Canyon - 46.4, 45.2
  • Thickets of Eternal Bloom - 54.4, 44.5
  • Pit - 47.6, 38.7
  • Darkways Depot - 54.4, 33.3
  • Iron Approach - 43.3, 20.9

Talador

  • Aruuna - 79.0, 43.8
  • Isle of Deepening Twilight - 70.5, 57.0
  • Fort Wrynn - 68.3, 21.5
  • Hum "rock - 38.0, 79.1
  • Orunai coast - 59.5, 9.8
  • Shattrath - 49.7, 35.1
  • Tomb of Light - 58.0, 65.0
  • Zangarra - 78.5, 27.8
  • Auchindoun - 49.8, 60.2
  • Court of Souls - 41.9, 58.0
  • Gordal Fortress - 69.0, 69.7
  • Path of Glory - 66.7, 9.8
  • Anchorite Shelter - 78.1, 55.3
  • Telmor - 46.6, 89/1
  • Tuurem - 59.6, 32.3

To get this achievement, you need to find 100 Treasures of Draenor. At the moment, as many as 200 treasures are scattered throughout the continent, which makes the search a little easier. Each treasure can be mined by one player only once, after which you simply simply stop seeing it. And this means that you can not "steal" someone's treasure, for each player it is individual. Treasures collected in the Tanaan Jungle will NOT be counted.

treasure maps

If you can't find the rest of the treasure, it might be time to buy a Treasure Map. The map can only be accessed if you have the Loremaster of Wisdom (main quests completed) achievement for the zone you are in. For example, after obtaining Nagrand, you will be able to purchase the Nagrand Treasure Map. The cards themselves can be found on Shrikk in Warspear and on Grakis in Barrier of the Winds. The cost of one piece is 100 gold. After casting, all uncollected treasures in this zone become visible on the map.

It is worth noting that members of the Horde cannot purchase a Shadowmoon Valley card, just like the Alliance cannot purchase a Frostfire Ridge card. They can only be obtained by completing certain Garrison quests related to exploration. A useful item would be the Explorer's Notebook: It gives your followers the opportunity to complete a research-related quest. You can buy a book from Shrikka or Grakis.

Loremaster of Draenor (Horde)

To get this achievement you have to complete a lot of tasks. And by a lot, I mean a lot. Luckily, if you've leveled up on quests, many of them will already be done. However, there are many more tasks left than you can imagine.

This achievement can be worked on by multiple characters. That is, if you fulfill some criteria with one character, and the rest with another, this will be counted and you will receive an achievement. However, you cannot make the first part Nagrandiose (acts as a criterion) with one character, and the second with another.