The better to insulate the house outside: I choose the insulation. Advantages and disadvantages of modern insulation

Wall insulation from the inside: how and

If you look at the picture from the thermal imager, it becomes clear that the lion's proportion of heat loss from heated rooms occurs through the outer walls. The necessary level of heat transfer resistance is obtained by the use of insulation, which at the construction stage of the house are mounted inside multilayer enclosing structures - between the frame racks, on the facade, in the form of layered masonry, etc.

Many of our compatriots fell home to buildings built in the era of cheap heating and low energy efficiency standards. This applies to both apartment buildings and houses in the private sector. In both cases, it is necessary to engage in additional thermal insulation, but it is not always possible to be done with the "right" street side. In private houses there are difficulties with insulation of basements and outlined "base" floors. Behind the cold wall of the apartment there may be a staircase, a mine, a temperature gap ... or the authorities simply may not allow insulation of the facades.

Why insulation walls from the inside should avoid?

All written and unwritten rules say that in the outer walls more "warm" layers should be located closer to the street, and more "cold" - closer to the room. Additional thermal insulation of walls on the side of the rooms is not recommended, but ... permissible. In the arrow "Design of thermal protection of buildings" (SP 23-101-2004) said:

"It is not recommended to apply thermal insulation from the inside due to the possible accumulation of moisture in the heat insulating layer, however, if necessary, the surface of the room should have a solid and durable vapor insulation layer." Note: Solid and durable vapor insulation layer!

Indirect prohibiting factors are called: the loss of useful area, the complexity and high cost of this enterprise. However, the main problem of internal insulation lies in the subsequent incorrect work of the enclosing structures.

After installation from the inside of the wall of insulation materials - we artificially move the distinction line between the street cold and energy, which is produced by the heating system. Under such conditions, in winter, our insulation becomes a barrier for warm air, so the rest of the wall massif is quickly freezing.

If the air is saturated with water vapor to a certain level, then drip moisture may appear in the form of condensate. It is this effect that we can observe when "crying" bad PVC windows. Condensate loss is possible with the correspondence of the temperature of the problem surface - the air temperature in the room and the specific relative humidity. This dependence (as well as the process) is called the term "dew point".

In the existing arrangements of the rules for the design of thermal insulation of houses, tables with accurate numbers are displayed.

In our case, the cold surface is very happy with the room. The zone of the dew point when implementing internal insulation, usually falls directly between the bearing wall and insulation. Therefore, very often under the heat insulating layer of the wall begins to wet, as a result of which the structures are gradually destroyed; Insulation, having noticed water, ceases to work; Mold develops in the nutrient medium, fungi grow. The only option to avoid this will be the maximum vaporizoation to prevent moisture to the chilled wall.

In the manual (PZ-2000) to SNiP 3.03.01-87 "Design and the device of thermal insulation of the enclosing structures of residential buildings" is paragraph 7.2.2, where it says:

"Insulation systems should be arranged with an outer (cold) wall surface. Internal insulation of external walls is allowed to be performed in separate apartments of multi-storey buildings, to the preservation of the facades of which the special requirements of the state administration of architecture and urban planning activities are presented. In this case, constructive measures should be developed that exclude condensate loss at the junction of the insulation layers and the wall material, in the places of intersection of the insulation layer with plates of overlappings and internal transverse walls, as well as on the edges of the outlook, which should be confirmed by the calculation of temperature fields.

This quote is especially interested in that the developers pay attention to the need to protect against moisturizing not only the plane itself, but also the faces of the insulation, joints, adjoins ...

What is the way thermal insulation choose and what a heater to buy

Additional thermal insulation from the side of the premises can be performed in two ways:

• As well as on the facade, the method of fastened heat insulation is used, when the tight insulation is glued to the base, they take it to the wall with plate-like dowels, then the reinforcing mesh is adjusted to the surface and the finish protective-decorative layer is covered on top (it must be a steamproof layer - polymer plaster, Tile and the like).
• Next to the enclosing structure is collected a wall frame. Insulation are laid in the cavity of the resulting falseland.

The second option is more popular, since, despite the large thickness of the finished cake, we get a more resistant to mechanical damage to the wall, we have the opportunity to use any finishing finish, including painting with interior colors or sticking with wallpaper. Using insulation inside a private frame, there is no need to rest in the highest density of thermal insulation materials, but this in any case should be plates (for example, ISOROC P-75). It can be operated exclusively with materials that were developed for operation in a vertical position without direct load on them. That is, the roller models of mineral wool should immediately exclude.

Basalt wool and fiberglass insulation are convenient due to its elasticity and elasticity. They are easily customized under the size, they are well keen on the spot when attaching between the racks of the Mospus. But since the insulation of walls from the inside is associated with the possibility of moisturizing the array at the expense of condensate, then the fibrous cottage materials will be here not the best option. They have the ability to water absorption, which is why after wetting becomes heat-conducting. Against this background, more preferred are: foam and EPPS (Penoplex-Comfort).

The heat insulating layer on the side of the room is exactly the place where the usual lack of plane polystyrene turns around for the user plus. Epps, perhaps, there is no competing.

• First, extruded polystyrene foam has practically zero water absorption due to the closed pore structure.
• Secondly, EPPS is a steamproof material. He himself will not miss moisture to the zone where the "dew point" is located.
• Thirdly, the Epps Plates with a thickness of more than 30 mm usually can be bought with a stepped edge execution, which helps better seal seams in thermal insulation.
• Fourth, extrusion polystyrene foam shows one of the best figures in thermal conductivity among other heaters.

Another option, especially worthy of consideration - sprayed types of thermal insulation. The polyerals applied under pressure create an insulating layer without seams, they fill the irregularities well, tightly fasten with the base and with adjacent structures, sealed (by itself). If a sprayed insulation is not damaged hereinafter, then its pores will remain closed, and it will not pass water vapors, will not be saturated with moisture.

Procedure for the insulation of walls from the inside

Preparation of the foundation

The carrier wall before starting work should be cleaned. After you should close all possible cracks and through holes. Warming on the part of the room, it is recommended to treat antifungal agents. For the house of the tree, the composition "Nortex" -lux will fit well. With the same name there is an antiseptic agent intended for the processing of concrete and stone walls of another type.

Wasching the wall

Before starting the frame of the frame, it is necessary to determine possible irregularities on the bearing wall. Inside the room, this can be done using a long rule of 2.5-3 meters into which the bubble levels are integrated. If the wall is too long, then the differences are easy to find using the tensioning of the control cords. The cord is stretching along the base surveyed near the floor, near the ceiling and diagonally.

When detecting localized "discovering" zones - the carcass retreat must be taken from them. In some cases, if the defect of the base is small, it is easier to knock him down than to get out of false too far into the room.

Installation of brackets

When insulating from the room, the frames are harvested from galvanized "ceiling" profiles. In a wooden house, it can be dry cutting bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm, which have been thoroughly antisept. In both cases, the perforated "direct suspension" brackets are used.

To install brackets on the wall, you must first mark their location. Since profiles will be placed at a 400 or 600 mm interval (more than the width of plasterboard plates), then it is with such distances that the rows of fasteners along the axes will be located. In each vertical row, the distance between P-shaped brackets should be about 600-750 mm.

The fixation of direct suspensions on the wall is carried out by means of a dowels "Fast Iontazh" size of 6x40 mm (on concrete), 6x60 or 6x80 - on brick. The wooden wall "Pashki" is attached with stainless self-seed screws with a large flat hat length from 45 mm. For each bracket there are two metrics, they must pass through the side eyes.

Important! Installation of direct suspensions on the wall is recommended to perform through a thermally insulating gasket, then it will be possible to interrupt heat transfer through the metal and minimize cold bridges.

Laying insulation

Very often, thermal insulation is mounted after the assembly of the entire frame. That is, minvat, foam or eppt is drunk between the racks, but there is no insulation profiles. In this case, it is better to lose the extra 3-5 centimeters, but reliably insulate the wall with a solid layer. For this slab insulation, "stick" to the brackets and take root to the wall.

It is obvious that some kind of fixation of the insulating material will be required. To do this, it is best to use a glue method. Among the various types of glue, the most preferred will be polyurethane glue in cylinders, but can also be used with water dry mixtures intended for the method of fastened thermal insulation.

Important! Installing the insulation on the wall, we recommend pressing it as much as possible to eliminate the gap for which wet air could circulate. For the same reason, the glue is better to apply on lighthouses, and with the help of a toothed spatula-rowing. If glue from the cylinder is used, it is desirable to make a continuous strip in the form of a closed circuit around the perimeter of the plates.

The gaps between the plates of foam or eppts are better replenished. The foam makes sense to close the cracks near the passage of the brackets, as well as the gaps in the places of the insulation of the insulation to the floor, the ceiling and to other designs.

Installation of vaporizolation

As you remember, the important thing is our task - do not give moisture (in any of its manifestation) to penetrate the dew point. Therefore, it is necessary on top of the insulation to hang a vapor insulating construction cloth, it can be both ordinary reinforced polyethylene and more technological membranes or foil foamed polyethylene.

The canvas can be pre-fixed using bilateral tape. It does not matter how the bands will be located (vertically or horizontally), but they must be played with a rehearse to each other by no less than 100 mm.

Important! Parosolation should enter adjacent structures so that the insulation of the layer is reliably protected, including from the ends. The joints of the strips and the place of the adjuncing of vaporizolation to other structures should be sampled by waterproof construction tape.

Installation of carcass profiles

Now the profiles can be installed on top of the heat insulating layer. In any case, we need a combination of CD and UD. First, in its place around the perimeter of the wall with the help of dowels, guide profiles UD are fixed. The extreme wall profiles are then displayed in the brackets and strictly vertically recorded by self-stairs LN 9 mm.

When the extreme profiles of CD will be exhibited - several control cords are stretched into the target with their facial surfaces. These will be the loaf cords for which the rest of the subsystem profiles are alternately.

If the height of the ceilings is greater than the height of the facing panels, then you will need to assemble jumpers to ensure reliable docking sheets of plasterboard sheets on the meek side. The jumpers are made of CD profile trimming, on the spot they are fixed with "single-level" brackets (these are the so-called "crabs" and the like).

Fastening plasterboard plates

One could use such materials such as blockhass, timing of a bar or lining. But for creating tightness, slaughter materials are better suited. Warving the walls of the house / apartment from the inside - plasterboard is extremely desirable to buy a moisture-resistant thickness of 12.5 mm. It is a green plate with marking G Clac

Printing Epps

The framework of the slabs is mounted according to the rules common for drywall systems. The fixation occurs with self-reverses with a length of 25 mm for metal, with a traditional step between screws and with a traditional indent from the edge of the plate.

Important! After installing all sheets of plasterboard, the gaps between the facing and other structures should be filled with water-resistant sealants. This may be a material based on silicone or acrylic.

There is no special requirements for the attack and the finishing finish of special requirements, only standard general construction requirements should be observed. But if options are available - it is better to give preference to vapor-permeable materials with better moisture resistance.

What else to pay attention to

It will not be superfluous that insulation must be made comprehensively. In our case, when performing work on the side of the premises, it is recommended to warm (with good vapor barrier) the floors and the ceiling, at least in small areas near the problem wall. If there is a window on the wall, it is very important to make good insulation of slopes and zones around the windowsill.

Sealing insulated in this way the walls (and there can be several rooms in the room) sometimes causes a sharp increase in air humidity in the dwelling. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully approach the ventilation. The solution is to install the exhaust fan on the output channel, in the installation of the supply valves on the wall or on the window, the excerpt of the required gap under the canvases of interior doors, which will provide normal air flow.

It is possible to warm up the builders at home from the inside, and the builders are arguing, and manufacturers of insulation materials, but everyone converge on the fact that in most cases the insulation of the walls inside will not be the best solution - if there is an opportunity, it is better to go outdoor thermal insulation at home. However, if there is no choice, it is necessary to carefully examine the features and rules for choosing and installing the insulation so that the internal thermal insulation is effective, safe and durable. How to insulate the walls of the house from the inside and how to do it?

Inside the premises you can insulate the walls only in cases where it is impossible to change the facade of the building or to the outer surface of the wall there is no access. Avoid the insulation of walls from the inside of the house is recommended because he has a number of significant flaws:

• The dew point shifts inside the room. The wall begins to freeze for the whole thickness, the cold occurs with the warm air at the junction of the wall and the insulation, and condensate is formed on its surface. It has a lot of negative consequences: fungus can develop on a wet wall, the efficiency of the heat-insulating material is reduced, it is lagging behind the wall, collapsed; In addition, decorative decoration is spoiled.
• The simply wall loses its heat accumulating properties. It becomes difficult to control the air temperature in the room - it begins to warm up faster due to the operation of the heating devices or the direct sunlight in the window and quickly cool when carrying out.

• It is impossible to provide 100% heat insulation, as it will not work off the walls from the inside throughout their surface - the cold bridges will remain at the intersection of the outer wall with the internal partitions.
• The indoor air humidity increases. This, again, contributes to the formation of mold and is generally harmful to health. To ensure good air exchange, you have to constantly air the apartment, which will lead to an increase in heating costs.
• The useful area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment decreases - especially if due to the climatic conditions in the region it is necessary to mount the insulation for the walls of the house with a thick layer.
• If work on thermal insulation is carried out not before starting repair in the room, you have to dismantle the whole decorative finish, which complicates the work and makes it more expensive.

Condensate indoor becomes the most dangerous consequence of the inner heat insulation, which leads to the acceleration of the destruction of the walls and the spurrel of finishing materials. You can partially avoid this by accurately calculating the necessary thickness of the insulation layer and choosing the right material. Thus, the insulation of the house from the inside is expensive and unsafe, but sometimes inevitable.

How to avoid condensate

If you still have to do internal thermal insulation, then before you understand how to insulate the house from the inside, you need to understand whether it is possible to avoid negative consequences. The dryness of the walls inside the house can be ensured if the place of formation of the point of dew on the exposure of moisture is.

For this you need:

• Use a high-quality multi-layer membrane for waterproofing. Polyethylene film is not suitable. In addition, it needs to be properly furnished - the mustache, with the sealing of the joints.
• Select a heater with a minimum vapor permeability. If the material from which the walls are made, this indicator will be higher, then the moisture generated between the insulation and the surface of the wall will not be condensed, but to go out.
• Mount the insulation close to the wall. To do this, glue on it should be applied with a smooth solid layer, not beacons.

• Provide forced ventilation of the room, as well as install windows with air exchange valves.
• Accurately calculate the thickness of the insulation layer. You can not focus on the average parameters, since it is possible to warm the walls, only considering all the characteristics of a particular material, the premises and the climatic features of the region.
• Treat the warmed wall with antifungal and antibacterial agents. You can use a special antiseptic primer. You can start working only after the surface of the wall is completely soaked and dried.

When insulating the apartment from the inside it is very important to get rid of all possible cold bridges. They are formed at the joints of the insulation slabs and in those places where the wall is connected to overlappings and internal partitions. To improve the effectiveness of insulation, it is necessary to lay the thermal insulation material with an occasion of the inner walls, the floor and the ceiling.

Selection of thermal insulation material and insulation mounting technology

Mineral wool

It is not recommended to choose this material, as he insulated the wall in the apartment from the inside, it will not work quite effectively with it. However, Vata is most simple in circulation and cheaper than other options, so often resort to its use.

Wat exists in two versions:

• rolls;
• basalt plates.

If there is no other choice, it is better to use wool in the form of plates - this insulation is more dense, has better thermal resistance, it does not settle over time. The roll variety of cotton varies with too high record permeability, well absorbs moisture, so that the walls warmed by it will probably get intoxicated. However, the probability of the penetration of moisture under the insulation is and when using plates with a density of 75 kg / m3. It is possible to reduce the risk of condensate, applying a good vapor insulation material and correctly installing thermal insulation.

Insulation from the inside mineral wool is as follows:

1. At a distance from the wall surface, a frame of wooden plates or an aluminum profile is constructed.
2. Under the frame, the first layer of mineral wool is laid. It is necessary to glue it to the wall as tight as possible.
3. The second layer of basalt wool slabs is stacked between the frames of the frame with the displacement of the joints relative to the first layer.
4. Located a layer of vaporizolation membrane.
5. Plasterboard mounted on the frame.

Due to the peculiarities of mineral wool vats, you need to pay special attention when the inner insulation of the walls of the house is carried out. It is impossible to use a polyethylene film, you need a more efficient steamproof multilayer membrane. To a wooden frame, it can be attached to the stapler, necessarily a mustache; It is glued to the profile with two-way scotch.

The backstage when laying the membrane should be at least 100 mm, joints - to occur on the framework elements and reliably cry. Parosolation should go to the neighboring surface of the surface. Places of contact of the membrane with surfaces should be additionally sealing. The liquid sealant is applied to the wall, a pipe or another design, then the membrane presses to the place of the adjoint; After drying, the sealant of the membrane is fixed with scotch.

High-quality installation will reduce, but will not completely remove the risk of condensate when using mineral wool. It is better to consider other, polymeric, types of insulation for walls from within.

Polystyrethille and Epps

The polystyrene foam, or foam plastic, is suitable for the insulation of the wall in the apartment from the inside is much better. This contributes to this characteristics:

• low thermal conductivity due to the presence of air in the cells of the material;
• low vapor permeability and almost absent hygroscopicity;
• high strength, including compression and gap;
• small mass;
• easy processing with your own hands - cut the material with a typical knife.

The usual or extruded polystyrene foam of sufficient density even with a relatively small thickness will provide sufficiently effective thermal insulation of the room. It is recommended to choose it not only because of the ease of installation, but also to insulate the apartment from the inside with it, you can most productively: it does not miss moisture, so the condensate will not appear. The main thing is to properly glue foam plates, sealing joints and ensuring the density of fitting to the wall.

Applying polystyrene foam for thermal insulation of residential premises, it is important to take into account some of its cons. So, he practically does not protect against noise. In addition, during combustion, it highlights toxic compounds into the air. Another disadvantage is the high cost of EPPS, but it is compensated by the fact that it is not necessary to lay a vapor insulation membrane, but to redo thermal insulation due to the destruction of the insulation, it is accurately not necessary, as in the case of incorrect mounting of stone wool.

The polystyrene insulation for walls inside the apartment should have a high density - 25-30 kg / m3. It is possible to determine the density by labeling, which has the form "PSB-C-25", where 25 means the desired parameter.

Installation plates of polystyrene foam on the inner wall is carried out as follows:

1. The wall surface is cleaned, ground and dried.
2. The insulation plates are glued with rows with displacement of the joints. It is advisable to use polyurethane glue, which is applied to the entire surface of the plate of polystyrene foam.
3. Additionally, the plates are fixed with special plastic dowels.
4. The joints are sealed with silicone sealant, large gaps are filled with mounting foam.
5. On top of the insulation, the reinforcing fiberglass is stacked. On top of it you can put plaster for decorative finish. Another option - instead of reinforcement, immediately glue drywall.

There is another way of installation. On the long ends, the plates of PPS are selected grooves in the form of corners. Two plates are joined, seam is sealed. Then the wooden board is invested in the groove. The resulting design is fixed on the wall using self-tapping screws. This method is more convenient, as it is possible to insulate the room in this case faster and more economical. In addition, boards can be used as a frame for mounting drywall.

Is it worth considering other options

There are more modern insulation for walls from the inside - polyurethane foam, heat-insulating plaster, foamed polyethylene and even thermocracy based on ceramics. Among them are worthy of worthy unless the first material; Other options are actually affordable for the insulation of an apartment from within. Polyurethan is a conventional foam similar to the assembly, which is applied to the insulated surface using a special sprayer.

The material is good in that it is reliably engaged with any surface, penetrates all the cracks, is monolithic and steamproof. He quickly freezes and does not forms no cold bridges. However, polyurethane foam is quite expensive, and it will not work with him.

Thus, if it is necessary to make the insulation of walls from the inside, it is best to use expanded polystyrene foam. This thermal insulator has the most suitable characteristics, and it is not difficult to install it. When complying with insulation technology, it will effectively protect the house from the cold.

The outdoor insulation of the walls is the cheap way of insulation, and some apartments owners try to insulate at least 1-2 walls. Having studied this question, I thought about whether the external thermal insulation of the walls of the "separately taken apartment" were effective, and not all at home. At the same time, the specialists in the exterior insulation of the walls of individual apartments are stronger on the walls of multi-storey houses. It seems that the city turns into an old patchwork.

Many people write that after the plating, the foam was warmer in the apartment for 2-3 degrees. Someone did not feel any change at all. No company gives a guarantee that it will be warmer by 10 degrees; Often about degrees, as such, there is no question in the advertising prospectuses of the construction office. On this issue, long and passionately discussed with an old friend the builder and something we came to the general opinion. The main problem: Despite the fact, whether technical conditions are observed when insulation or not - the outer bearing walls are subjected to a sharp difference in temperature and gradually collapse. And no one will tell you about it ... In addition, there are some more unpleasant moments.

The outer insulation of the walls is not effective if:

• Apartment on the first floor with ice floors and a raw, open basement.
• The walls of the apartment go into the entrance, in which the windows are knocked out and radiators do not work.
• In the apartment old windows with rattling glasses.
• Doors are not insulated, or eat slots at the entrance door.
• The apartment on the top floor and the roof is not insulated, it is not closed to the roof and the windows of the outstand, where in the winter there is a lot of snow (this is familiar to me, as I live on the 9th floor and the problems of the last floors have a place ..)
• We flow seams on the upper floors, and in "kilometer" hidden grooves moisture flows to you. The sewing of a separate apartment will only aggravate the problem.

Even making such a costly work on insulation and without removing the above-mentioned problems - all the works of the cat under the tail. Plus, having centralized heating, you will not pay less than it. If you believe in special builders, their calculations are as follows: even when modernizing the entire home and installation of autonomous heating, it pays off at least 15 years. And in a separate apartment with central heating, it will never pay off. Is that an electricity account will be 10 hryvnia a month less if you drive the electrical heater (this is purely relatively).

Currently, there are various modern technologies that allow you to see where basic heat leaks occur in your home or in the apartment - for example. Be sure to ask the masters that will offer you services for the insulation of facades, a photo of at least one object, they are insulated, snapshots of this object in the infrared range indicating the address of the object. Ideal it would be before and after. So I smiled, and no longer offered to warm ...

Alternative to outdoor wall insulation

Having settled into the odnushku on the 9th floor of a 9-storey block house, and living in it 2 years, I understood - it is impossible to live. The walls in the kitchen were covered with moisture in the kitchen and in the winter, and from the windows whistled no worse than the nightingale of the robber. In the residential room, the angle of the wall, which was one side of the balcony, and the other to the neighboring loggia was wet and a black mold appeared.

Repeated climbing climb poured gaps with a resin and shy slabs shook - no sense. Spat on everything and took the case in his hands - insulated the external walls from the inside. The first thing that did is replaced the windows to metal-plastic, but it did not solve the problem. The walls are not just "crying", they "sobbed".

It was waiting for the summer - the walls were dried naturally and for loyalty, I was walking with a hairdryer, I decided to go through the usual foam rolled insulation under the wallpaper on a cardboard basis. The fungus worked manually. Sharpen, as far as possible, cracks on the walls, revealed them several times the primer for the destruction of fungus and mold "Cerezite". After drying, a rolled insulation was placed under the wallpaper on the sheplicated walls using a conventional finish putty, which remained after the woven walls. Bowed wallpaper. And ... oh, miracle! I didn't even have to change heating radiators at that time; For more than 10 years, as I forgot about fungus, cold and dampness. Radiators changed only last year. As the radiator chose, wrote.

I am sure that you should first try to solve the issue of thermal insulation before carrying out solid reconstruction with your apartment. The outdoor warming of the walls is more likely to tribute fashion than a panacea from the troubles of cold raw apartments. When I was preparing an article, I got to foreign sites and blogs - well, no one insulates the facades, even in the northern states, everything is done from the inside (even straw inspection :)). On this it is worth thinking ... In the next article I will cut the topic

Tree - natural material. The houses of it are well preserved warmth, harmless to health, rather durable. An important advantage has ease of fastening on wooden surfaces of any finishing materials. Nevertheless, taking into account our climatic conditions of a wall of wood, especially in old houses, you need to warm. Woodering of a wooden house outside Minvata under Siding is a good option recommended by specialists. This measure will be justified if the cost of heating will decrease and the service life will increase. It is better to make insulation from the street to protect the walls not only from the winds, rain, snow, but also from the scorching rays of the sun.

Most popular for finishing a wooden house Outside enjoys practical vinyl siding. His undoubted advantages:

• affordable price for all segments of the population;
• does not lose its qualities for 50 years and more;
• quickly and easily stones the walls of various configurations;
• just repaired.

Houses, literally converting our villages and villages. But there are many specifics in the operation of wooden buildings.

It is important to know that because of the big temperature difference in the cold time on the street and in a warm wood house begins to absorb water vapor from within. Therefore, the wall must necessarily "breathe", that is, skipping steam outwards. The decisive role to ensure this function plays the use of special films and the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and siding.

Houses in which the owners live all year round, vaporizolation is not needed. This must be taken into account if siding is used to finish outdoor wooden walls insulated by the Minvatu.

The main purpose of mineral wool is the use for sound and thermal insulation of walls, roof, overlappings and other structures in buildings, buildings, pipeline systems and other facilities. Minvata can be struggling with heat loss and creates comfortable conditions for people living. With an independent selection of mineral wool as a heater for the walls of a wooden house, attention should be paid to the following characteristics:

• the composition is basalt (stone) wool preferable fiberglass;
• density - the more this indicator, the better heat insulation;
• plate dimensions - directly affect the dimensions between frame racks.

It should also be carefully examining the accompanying documents and find out why this insulation is served: for sound isolation, for protection against heat loss, to protect against the spread of fire. Often manufacturers write on the package about the place of application of this type of mineral wool: for the facade of the building, for the inner walls, for the roof of the house and other works. Minvata is three species:

• stone (basalt) is made from rocks;
• fiberglass - it's the finest glass threads;
• slag is made from slag waste.

All types of Minvati are not combustible - it is its undoubted plus, especially in combination with a flammable tree.

The insulation from Minvati is better to use in the form of standard rectangular plates, with an optimal thickness of 50 and 100 mm. The main landmark when choosing a thickness - climate. Plates from Minvati are conveniently placed and secured from the outside with their own hands on the wall, if it is properly placed and consolidated the bars for their mount on the facade of a wooden house. As a heater on wooden walls under siding, the stone minvat is best suited. This insulation has many unique properties:

• low thermal conductivity (0.035-0.045 W / m), which allows to maintain a comfortable microclimate in residential premises;
• noncorporation (able to withstand strong heating to 700 degrees and open fire);
• good sound insulation;
• high heat resistance (from -180 degrees up to +700 degrees Celsius);
• resistant to shrinkage and warping in any conditions;
• durability;
• resistant to moisture (the level of water absorption is only 0.5%);
• good vapor permeability;
• ecology (does not emit harmful substances, so mineral wool is absolutely harmless to the human body; resistant to the effects of various chemical reagents; it does not like fungi and loads);
• convenience in work (not barrel);
• does not require qualifications and easily stacked with your own hands.

The process of laying mineral wool sheets with their own hands on the walls of a wooden house outside is quite simple, but still you need to adhere to the recommendations of the instructions and have experience in construction work. Basic requirement: Plates must be laid evenly, without leaving the gaps. To do this, you need to be able to cut them or supplement the pieces of a specific configuration. Especially thoroughly need to approach the markup of the crate to prevent the gaps in the places of the plates and fit them to the bars. The outer surface before insulation and the mounting of siding should be prepared. Drain pipes, lights, shutters and other elements are removed from it. It is thoroughly cleaned from any contamination.

The framework on which siding will be attached with your own hands, you need to do from smooth, antiseptic, wooden bars. Metallic profiles are not desirable, as they collect condensate, which winter freezes. Typically used brus from a tree cross section of 50x50mm., What corresponds to the thickness of the sheets of minvati. To laying minvati needs to be prepared. It is especially important to take into account when the work is performed with their own hands. The heaters from sheets has a decent weight, so for reliable fixation use special glue and reinforcement of dowels. Stability sheets Minvati gives friction with bars, glue and dowels. A special film is superimposed on top of the insulation. It has specific properties: waterproof outside, but transmitting pairs from within. It is attached to the bars using a building staple strap.

First, the insulation is done. Bruks are arranged horizontally. Their thickness should be equal to the thickness of the plates of mineral wool. All bars are exhibited by level. On top of this crate, they are fastened with self-drawing a controller for siding in a step of 40-50 cm. In it, the bars are located vertically. This design provides a ventilated gap between insulation sheets and siding, and also reliably fixes the sheets of mineral wool.

Wooden house insulation scheme for siding

Installation of siding panels

In the siding panels there is a special lock, so their laying is simple even with their own hands. They easily form an attractive seamless surface in which it is impossible to see any method of fastening, not traces from self-tapping. Panels are easily sawmed with metal with a metal. Siding has practical and valuable properties:

• they are easy to facing any surfaces: roofs, walls, frontones, socles;
• it is rather durable and durable;
• he does not rot and do not rust;
• he is not terrible moisture;
• it is not afraid of sunlight;
• he has a large selection of textures and colors.

To put vinyl siding with your own hands, you need to purchase the required number of additional materials:

• J - profiles;
• external and inner corners;
• finish, starting and finishing slats;
• near window planks and tits for facing window and doorways;
• fast, sophytes, flexible profiles for facing the frontones and arched windows.

Wooden house with siding outside with your own hands should be started with the installation of the starting plank and the outer corners. The cladding of vertical surfaces is lowered upwards. The assembly of the panels is done correctly if the panel snaps the panel when fixing the lock. Do not forget about the gaps of temperature compensation. The siding panels have great flexibility, so for the convenience of installing them can be flex a bit. Small difficulties arise when sheeling with their own hands the last panel under the cornice. It is almost always in width (need trimming) and you need to start the upper edge into the finishing rack with the simultaneous snatching of the castle.

Put the hand on the heart, the house of solid wood is better not to warm at all. High-quality massive logs and timber, being preserved in natural form, provide an optimal microclimate in the house. The tree, unlike most other wall materials, "breathes", in this one of his main advantages. However, in the case of insufficient thickness of wooden walls, or if the house has already stood a lot of years and the login needs to be protected from external influences, outdoor insulation and trim are justified measures, help reduce heating costs and extend the life of a destroying tree. The most practical material for outdoor clamping a wooden house is vinyl siding. It is inexpensive, the service life is half a century and more, easily mounted, is repaired without problems. House, covered with siding, looks neat. We will tell you how to make the right warming of a wooden house under siding.

To improve thermal insulation, without worsening the microclimate and not harm the structure, you need to understand the specifics of the construction and operation of a wooden house. Let's start with theory: a little about woodworking and a bit of building physics.

Wood moisture and harmful mushrooms

We all know how quickly amazed by mold mushrooms wood, constantly in a wet state. The loss of material strength comes in a matter of months, and for the year or two logs, in the thickness of which favorable conditions for the life of mushrooms are created, can turn into a duch. The basic condition for growing mold is a sufficient amount of moisture. Accordingly, to keep the wooden house for many years, its walls and other structures need to protect against the convergence. The absolute humidity (the ratio of the mass of water for the weight of absolutely dry wood) of the freshly dredged forest of coniferous rocks reaches 90%, the cut before installation is 25-35%, a wooden house, in normal conditions that have defined during the year - 10-20% depending on the season. At the same time, the fungal lesion of the wood begins to develop from a moisture level of 22%, which is only a little higher than the natural state of the cut. By the way, the same conditions are suitable in order for the brices to settle the beetle-tree.

It is important to know: in no case cannot be allowed to moisten the wood - the main reason for its destruction.

The mooring of the tree leads to its rotting

Where in the tree penetrates moisture

It is believed that moisture in the walls of a wooden house falls outside with oblique rain, fogs and snow. The precipitate really moisturize the walls. But raw weather lasts not so long, the sun and especially the wind contribute to the rapid removal of excess moisture. The attentive reader will say: the average annual air humidity on the street is 78% (data for the Moscow region), and in the house hesitates within 40-70% - it means that moisture on the street is greater and it should penetrate outside inside.

But actually it is not. The fact is that climatologists operate with relative humidity, this is the ratio of the lobe of water vapor to the maximum possible taking into account the temperature. And the colder the air, the less moisture it can contain. To understand the actual moisture content in the air, the values \u200b\u200bof absolute humidity use in construction physics. In the summer, when the street is about the same on the street and in the house, the humidity is similar. But in winter and in the off-season painting is completely different. For example, at a temperature outside -20 ºС and the relative humidity of the outer air in 80%, an absolute value is 0.6 g / m3, and within a house at 20 ºС and a relative humidity of 60% absolute will be 10.4 g / m3. Accordingly, the actual moisture content in the air inside the house above is 17 times. It is not surprising that wood, like a pump, absorbs moisture from the inside and gives it out through the micropores and joints between the logs, filled with flax, moss, jute, either by a different "breathable" interventional insulation.

It is important to know: most of the year, with the exception of a warm period, the water vapor penetrates the wood from the inside of the house and seeks to go outside, the amount of it is the greater, the colder on the street and warmer in the house.

Ventilation - vaporizolation - windscreen

We found out that the prerequisite for preserving a log and a healthy microclimate in it is that the insulation of the walls of a wooden house under siding should not prevent the free output of the water vapor outward.

Modern designs in wooden (and not only) house-building implies the widespread use of vapor insulation and windproof films. The first is absolutely sealed, do not miss the air or steam. The second repel water drops, but do not prevent the penetration of water vapor. In frame houses, the wall from the inside is closed with vapor barrier, thereby excluding the penetration of moisture from the premises in the insulation and wooden structures. Outside the "burst" windproof walls: it counteracts the blowing of the insulation, does not give water drops outside to fall inside (condensate can fall on the inner surface of the siding), while the water steam freely comes out. Since the insulation is closed with a finishing material (in our case, it is siding), there must be a ventilation gap between the insulation and trim, so that excessive moisture can leave the wall design.

It is important to know: ventilation gap - a mandatory element of the design of insulation for siding and other shearing materials.

Many shabashniki, Internet sources, construction companies managers and even professional builders argue that it is necessary to act in the same way when the house is insulated from solid wood. That is, the first layer, on brothers, steamproofing is stretched, then the insulation, on top of the windproof, completes the design of the ventilation and finishing material, siding in our case. At the same time, it is not taken into account that the moisture, seeking the outside, will surpass the vapor barrier, the moisture in the area adjacent to vapor barrier will increase, when the dew point occurs, condensate will fall. Conditions for germination of fungal dispute will be created, and from the inside we will not note the resulting destruction of wood for a long time.

The windproof film (diffusion membrane) has many micro-rectacles, at the expense of what pairs passes, at the same time, water drops are rolled from the material.

Eternal question: what to do?

We support the point of view of those specialists in building physics and technologists working in the field of wooden house-building, which vaporizoation with the insulation of a wooden house is not needed. The only case when the placement of vapor barrier between the carrier wall and the insulation can be justified - the house (cottage) is used seasonally, in winter it is rarely either in the premises the minimum temperature is maintained and they are well ventilated. With this mode, the temperature difference and, accordingly, absolute humidity outside and inside is low. For the house where people live constantly, there are internal sources of moisture (people's breath, couples from kitchen scenes and a soul, moisture from raising home plants), vaporizolation, rather, will harm than the benefit. You can not always do without a film, especially if the brica is uneven, and the insulation is too soft or in general flowing. In this case, you can pave windproofing as a limiting material between the wall and design of insulation under siding (with the greatest value of steaming), construction cardboard, kraft paper and even served your spunbond bed.

As a counterproof, the lack of vaporizolation supporters of its placement say that the insulation unprotected from the penetration will moisturize and its heat engineering characteristics will deteriorate. Alas, they are right. But the ventilation gap contributes to the withdrawal of moisture, and a relatively small (5-15%) drop in thermal protection properties is a forced victim in the struggle for the durability of the building.

It is important to know: vaporizoation with the insulation of a wooden house in which they live year-round, not needed.

So you can not do if the house is having year-round! Walls, "woven" in Pergamine, replete and become defenseless before the defeat of mold mushrooms

Material for frame and "Right" insulation

For a frame, only smooth wooden bars should be used, preferably antiseptic. Steel profiles that recommend applying "sofa" wizards are freezing, besides, they are condensate, which does not benefit to the insulation, nor the walls.

The cross section of the bars must correspond to the thickness of the insulation, for mineral wool, it is usually 5 cm. Accordingly, the bars - 5x5 or 4x5 cm. The recommended value of the ventilation is 4-5 cm, therefore, for the counterbasion that ensures the required distance between insulation and siding, you can use The same material.

The insulation must be vapor permanent and light. The most affordable one-west mineral wool mats, you should not use soft rolls, they will eventually give shrinkage in the wall. Ideal for a wooden house, an eco-friendly, very durable, but alas, the sceneled material - flax and hemp mats. Between the wall and windshield, you can float cellulose wool, wool waste. Repeat, the main thing for the insulation is vapor permeability. Minvata can be located in two layers (10 cm) or one (5 cm). What should be the overall layer of insulation, decide on the basis of the climatic conditions and the thickness of the existing walls.

Linen mats have much longer fibers than mineral wool, so better and longer hold the form

Technology of work production

The technology of insulation of a wooden house for siding is pretty simple, perform such work under the power of any "hand" man.

• The distance between the bars should not exceed 60 cm, better so that it is equal to the width of the insulation, for mineral wool it is 50 cm.
• The first level of bars is recommended to fix vertically. The second, if the insulation is placed in two layers - horizontally. The counterfear, to which siding will be directly attached - vertically.

Frame for warming of a minister of Minvata in two layers.

• On the uneven walls of the bars it is convenient to mount with perforated heavy-mounted heavy-mounted suspension. Thoughtful, but preferable from the point of view of heat engineering will be the traditional method: adjust the distance from the wall with the lining of wooden bosses. Screws will fix the frame better than nails.

Options for the framework of the frame and insulation under siding.

• If the mats of mineral wool are too soft, we recommend to mount one or two horizontal jumpers in each vertical section, it will reduce the drawdown of the material.
• Nashiva frame and filling the gaps between its elements insulation, fasten the windproof, on top of it - counterbuch.

Frame filled with insulation, the next stage - windscreen

• Finishing work - the cover of a wooden house siding.

"Right" design of the Wall insulation for siding with a double layer of Minvati.

A free air current must be provided in the ventilated gap. To do this, in the outer trim below and at the top of the wall leave slots (closed with mesh from mice and insects) or insert the lattice siding panel.

It is important to know: ventilation holes should be located in the lower and upper part of the walls of the walls.

Not everyone has the opportunities and the necessary skills to perform similar works. If there is no confidence in your abilities, it is better to entrust the insulation of your own home and the trimming of his siding to experienced masters.

Video: Wooden house - than to seize and how to insulate

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Many owners of wooden houses consider it necessary to produce insulation of walls immediately after its construction. However, I would like to note that a mistake is made quite often - it's not always worthwhile to wear new home all-in-wood houses, since the tree itself has a low thermal conductivity, and, in addition, it can create a favorable microclimate inside .

Warming up the wooden house outside Minvata under siding is advisable to conduct in the event that the building has already stood for many years, and, having passed the numerous temperature drop cycles, wood has lost its original qualities. This is due to the fact that there are numerous deep cracks on the logs or timber from which the house is erected under the influence of atmospheric influences.

Warmhouse Warming Outside Minvatu under Siding

The insulation measures are also resorting if the wall thickness is small, and the house is located in the region with cold winters. Thermal insulation helps to create a lower total thermal conductivity of enclosing structures and significantly reduce the cost of fuel.

For the insulation of a wooden house, a mineral wool is increasingly selected, and for decorative exterior finishes - vinyl siding, which is available for the price and has a sufficiently long service life. In addition, the finishing material is easy to install, and if one of the panels is damaged, it can be easily replaced with a new one.

In order for the optimal microclimate, after the insulation of wooden walls, the optimal microclimate is preserved, and the structure has not been harmful, it is necessary to know the specifics of the thermal insulation process, as well as the operation of the house.

What does the heightened moisture of wood lead to?

The answer to this question you need to know in order to more seriously approach insulation measures and, without hoping for various tips, and arguing logically, to take correct solutions.

Consequences of wood lesion fungus

Everyone knows that not treated with special compositions of wood, being constantly in a wet state, is amazed by microflora (flexible, mold), it starts the processes of rotting, the material loses its strength. After a couple of years, the log in which mold settled, completely loses thermal insulation qualities, and then it turns into a duch. Therefore, when wearing wooden walls, it is very important to choose the correct materials and carry out their installation in such a way as to protect the design from the conjunction.

The moisture of logs before assessing them into the log house should be 23 ÷ 35%. Stokening about a year under normal conditions, the walls dry, and the moisture in the wood decreases to 10 ÷ 18%, depending on the measurement season. It should be noted that if the tree is in a long time in a wet state, the level of which will be 20 ÷ 22%, then the formation of the fungus in its structure is inevitable. In addition, such an environment is favorable for the appearance of a beetle-tree.

It is not necessary to think that wood begins to be cheat only due to high humidity, rain, snow or fog. In fact, in the winter, when temperatures on the street and in the house differ, and the humidity in the room multiple times exceeds the outer, wood absorbs it into its structure. Binding moisture from the inside, the tree, passing through the junctions between the logs and micropores, gives it out. The lower the temperature on the street and above in the house, the greater the amount of moisture passes through its structure of wood. About this process say that the material "breathes".

Violating such natural equilibrium - in no case cannot. It is unacceptable to carry out insulation so that water vapors are closed out the way out of wood into the atmosphere. In addition, the insulation plays a role in the displacement of the "dew point" - it will be carried out beyond the wooden wall and will have to the thickness of the thermal insulation material. It will also significantly reduce the likelihood of overwhelming wooden walls.

Wooden Wall insulation materials

So, in order not to disturb the normal temperature balance and prevent moisture stagnation inside the logs, it is very important to comply with the proper insulation technology and choose suitable materials.

The most important condition is a vapor-permeable membrane

The most important element of the insulating system of a wooden house is a windproof diffuse membrane.

In order not to disturb the natural balance of humidity when insulation, it is necessary to create normal conditions for the operation of the structure, preventing obstacles to the output of water vapor outside.

Many builders, performing the work "not for themselves", are not very conceived of the durability of the insulated home, and closes the wooden wall with a vapor barrier film, which is absolutely not permissible. Experts involved in the study of building physics of wooden house-building and building materials are advised to completely abandon vapor barrier material when building buildings from wood, in which it is planned to stay all year round. Instead, the windproof diffuse membrane should be used, which is fixed from the outside of the insulation. This coating has a hydrophobicity - the water that fell on it is simply rolled, but never absorbed into the fibers. That is, even if water is leaked under a layer of siding, get into the mineral wool layer, and even more so - to the wooden walls, it will not be possible.

External structure of diffuse membrane

At the same time, the unique structure of such a membrane absolutely does not prevent the free output of water vapor outside, from the walls and the insulation layer into the atmosphere. Thus, the walls of the house continue to "breathe", spontaneously aligning a humidity balance.

The insulation itself needs a windproof - and this membrane fully copes with such a task, not allowing weathering of the fibers of the material and penetration into its thickness of cold air flows.

Schematically - the structure of the insulation "cake" on a wooden wall

The ventilation gap, left between windproof vapor-permeable film and finishing material, will freely circulate air, which will constantly dry the condensate droplets on the surface of the membrane.

Optimal insulation - mineral wool

With the outer insulation of wooden houses, synthetic thermal insulation materials are completely excluded - polystyrene foam, foamed polyethylene, etc. It is also necessary to immediately be from any foil coating materials. All listed insulation have vapor insulation qualities, which, as already mentioned, is completely unacceptable.

Do not choose artificial sprayed materials for insulation of a wooden house, such as polyurethane foam, as it also completely seals the surface and does not give the tree to "breathe". Such insulation will lead to rotting and the appearance of mold inside the house, which is very dangerous not only for the entire structure, but also for the health of residents.

The most acceptable option for such works is the mineral wool, but also not any. It can be made from different materials: blast furnaces (slag), molten glass combat and sand (glass gamble), and from volcanic gabbro-basalt rocks (stone or basalt wool).

For insulation of a wooden house, the most suitable option is the stone wool, which has low hygroscopicity, excellent thermal insulation qualities, suitable density and sufficiently high compressive strength.

Basalt Mineral Wool Blocks

The main technical and operational characteristics of this material:

• The coefficient of thermal conductivity - from 0.032 to 0.048 W / m × ° K.
• Moisture absorption - no more than 2% of the volume (in some species - significantly less)
• The density of basalt mats can vary from 30 to 400 kg / m³, as semi-rigid and rigid plates are made, as well as mats from mineral felt.
• The compressive strength is from 5 to 80 kPa, depending on the variety of material and its density.
• Basalt insulation is breathable material, and this is one of the basic conditions when insulating wooden structures.
• The most important quality, especially for use in wooden construction - non-combustible material.

For outdoor insulation of the house, it is recommended to choose semi-rigid mats of the heat insulator, the density of which varies from 80 to 150 kg / m³. Usually they have a size of 600 × 1200 or 500 × 1000 mm and are manufactured in a specific thickness range. Rolled material is easier to assemble, but its density and strength below, it can over time, even with a high-quality fix on the wall.

For thermal insulation external works on the walls of a wooden house, a glass gamble can also be used, but the effectiveness and durability of such insulation will be significantly lower.

But slag should immediately, categorically exclude. It is not worth sharing its low price - this has a higher thermal conductivity coefficient and absorbs moisture well. Increased moisture absorption in the process of operation leads to an increase in thermal conductivity, that is, the material dramatically loses its thermal insulation qualities. In addition, the increased acidity of slag is absolutely not useful in natural wood.

Experts recommend using environmentally friendly hemp or linen mats for indoor and external insulation, which have low thermal conductivity, good vapor permeability and fairly high resistance to moisture. But the biggest disadvantage of these materials is their high cost.

Required Wooden House insulation thickness

The thickness of the insulation is chosen depending on the thickness of the walls and the medium winter temperatures of the region, where the house is built. Most often, the thermal insulator is mounted in two layers, the first of which is 100, and the second is 50 mm. If necessary, the thickness can be increased, but for this you have to fix another series of crates.

However, it will be quite good to accurately calculate the thickness of the insulating layer - in order to prevent the low-efficiency of insulation or, on the contrary, do not waste excess means for excessive, unnecessary in particular conditions of thermal insulation. Perform calculation is not so difficult.

The principle is reduced to the fact that the total thermal resistance of the multilayer wall structure should be no lower than the indicator R. (m² × ° C / W), calculated by experts for this region.

To simplify perception, the values \u200b\u200bof this indicator are indicated on the proposed Scheme scheme of Russia. You should choose the top value for the walls (designated by purple numbers).

Map diagram with the values \u200b\u200bof the required heat transfer resistance

Since the design of the wall is multi-layered, its general thermal resistance will be equal to the sum of the resistance of each of the layers affecting the insulation qualities of the house.

R \u003d R. + R. + R. …

Well, the thermal resistance of each layer is expressed by the formula:

RN. = Hn. / λn.

Hn.- layer thickness.

λn.- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material.

With the insulation of a wooden building, such layers can be:

What layers affect the thermal insulation qualities of the wall

1 - Wooden log house itself. Please note that the cut thickness, folded from the rounder is accepted slightly smaller than when using a rectangular bar. This should be taken into account when carrying out a survey.

2 - Interior decoration, if it, of course, is. In wooden houses, the walls may be inside in undisputed, shuffle with natural clapboard, mdf, plywood, poles, sometimes use drywall under painting and sticking with wallpaper.

3 - layer of the outer insulation - the value that is required to be found.

There may be more complex "pies", and for each layer there is a calculation. But usually natural wooden walls from the inside are trying to "not spoil" synthetic materials to preserve the natural advantages of wood.

The scheme also shows:

4 - vapor-permeable hydrophobic windproof membrane.

5 - Frame details (crates).

6 - Siding. Siding cladding is separated from insulation by air ventilated gap (7). Thus, from what particular panels were made, they do not participate in the general thermal insulation of the wall and are not accepted into the calculation.

Thus, to calculate the required layer of insulation, you need to know the thickness of each layer and the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.

As a result, the calculation formula will look like this:

HU = (R.– H1./ λ1 – H2./ λ2 – H3./ λ3 ...) × λu

The value of thermal conductivity coefficients is easy to find in reference books, and this parameter for the selected type of mineral wool ( Λu) It is necessarily indicated on the package or in the accompanying documentation.

For convenience of counting, we recommend using the built-in calculator specially programmed for natural wooden walls. It provides for the ability to indicate, in addition to the wall itself, two more layers of finishing from natural materials.

Insulation Thickness Calculator Calculator

The resulting value should "lead" to the existing thicknesses of the selected insulation plates (mats). Naturally, in this case, the calculated thickness will be considered minimal.

Details of the carcass

For mounting the frame, a timber or metal galvanized profiles will be required. It should be noted that the metal elements of the crates are well freezed, and when the temperatures drops, condensate is formed on them, which will not benefit the wooden walls and insulation. In addition, metal profiles made of fine metal have a lower rigidity than the timber.

The cross section of a bar for a frame cage is sometimes selected by the thickness of the matte (plates) of the insulation. Although it is not a dogma, since you can position the guides at the desired distance from the wall and with the help of wooden racks - so the material is consumed much less.

It is necessary to take into account the distance for the ventilation gap, which is usually 40 ÷ 50 mm. Therefore, for the installation of the counterclaim, which is placed between the windproof film and finishing material, it is necessary to prepare a timber with a cross section of 40 × 50 or 50 × 50 mm.

Perhaps the special metal holders will be required to be fastened, and the insulation will be fixed. Usually, direct suspensions are used for this - the same as for working with plasterboard.

Preparatory work

The preparatory work is a very important event, since they will depend not only the duration of the operation of insulation, but also its quality.

The preparatory work includes several simple events, but they should be held with special care:

• Revision of surface surfaces and determination of work.
• The discovered gaps and gaps must be carefully cleaned from dust and dirt.
• After that, they are recommended to be primed by antiseptic means designed for wood processing. The primer must fully absorb and dry well.
• Next, gaps and cracks need to be embedded, as they simplify the penetration of cold air inside the house - create cold bridges.

Sealing cracks with special sealant

• After the sealing material in the gaps will find it, recommended the entire surface of the walls to cover with an antiseptic composition, which protects the wood from the onset of fungus and insect nests.

A few words - about the materials for sealing cracks in logs or bars and gaps between the crowns. The easiest way to get rid of these flaws is to fill their sealant on a latex basis, which is intended for external work on the tree.

Such materials are designed to preserve the balance of temperature and humidity inside the residential premises, as they are well restrained by the wind streams and do not give drafts to penetrate the wall.

The sealant has good adhesion and perfectly falls on the primed surface. It is elastic and has the ability to stretch repeatedly and deform when changes in the size of the gap, for example, when shrinking the walls or drying of wood. Material racks to temperature drops and high humidity, so it will protect the wooden wall for a long time.

If the crack is too big, the sealant is combined with an acrylic harness, which is filled into the gap, and close the sealant from above.

In addition, the cracks, moss, felt or other natural materials that are usually conducted by interventional insulation are used for sealing cracks.

The varieties of interventic insulation

The choice of this material directly depends on the comfort of living in a wooden house. How to choose correctly interwidden insulation - In a separate publication of our portal.

Montage Karcasa

As mentioned above, the frame of the crate can be mounted from a wooden bar or metal profile. The technology varies slightly, therefore it is worth considering both options.

Wooden frame

After preparation of the wooden wall, the following step is mounted frame. It can be fixed in different ways - depending on the thickness of the insulation and the number of its layers.

Wooden frame on the walls of a log cabin

• Bar, before fixing the wall, it is necessary to treat with antiseptic solutions and dry well.
• At that time, the timber will dry, on the wall surface you need to mark and determine the places of fasteners, guides or racks.
• The elements of the crates with a step equal to the width of insulating mats are mounted, minus 50 mm is necessary so that the mineral wool plates are installed by the versus with the bar and filled out the entire space between them.
• Before fixing, the bars are exhibited by level, as they will not only hold the insulation, but also to level the wall. If you need to align under the bars of the crates, wooden linings are installed.
• The crate is fixed on the wall with long self-draws or nails. A large cross section bar can additionally be fixed with metal stainless steel corners.
• If siding will be mounted horizontally (it happens most often), then the guide crates are fixed vertically.

The diagram shows several options for mounting a wooden crate - both for single-layer insulation and for several layers.

Several options for wooden frame and placing insulation

• In mandatory, the guides are installed at all corners of the structure, around the door and window openings. Usually along the walls, top and bottom, stretch the control cords on the markers in the markets, since all the elements of the crates must be displayed strictly into one plane.

Metal carcass

The galvanized metal framework frame is more durable, but the material has a high thermal conductivity, so it easily freezes. However, if the insulation is laid in the groove of the elements of the crate, it will also be insulated.

Frame made of metal profiles on the walls of timber

Work on the installation of metal frame elements occur in the following order:

• On the wall there is a markup of vertical lines, which will correspond to the placement of guide crates.
• Further, on vertical lines, with a step of 250 ÷ 350 mm, metal holders (direct suspensions) are fixed, which will be installed and the profiles will be fixed. These elements allow you to set the frame vertically at the level at the desired distance from the wall. The convenience of these auxiliary parts is that they have numerous holes through which they can also consolidate profiles at the required level.

Direct suspension device

By the way, such metal holders can also be used to secure a wooden frame.

In the central part of the suspensions there are holes for fastening them on the wall. After their fixation, their side parts are bend, between them will be installed a metal profile.

Direct suspensions provide frame mounting at the desired distance from the wall

• For the stiffness of the design to the vertical frame elements, horizontal are fixed. To do this, the segments of the metal profiles of the desired size are tailored to bends, the side parts are rejected at right angles. The average wide part is fixed on the front shelf of the installed guide crates, and bends on their side shelves.
• A continuous hard frames from the profile are mounted around the window and doorways, not forgetting them to bring them into a common plane with the main crate.

After completing the installation of the frame, you can move to the installation of the insulation.

Laying insulation in frame construction

• The insulation mats begin to lay between the guides from the bottom of the wall. To create a stable smooth surface, the horizontal solid timber in one plane is fixed before installing the first row of the insulation in the lower part of the frame with the entire crate, or separate segments that are fixed between the vertical elements.
• The insulation mats are installed close to the wall, without leaving the gaps. If you plan to use two layers of mineral wool of different thicknesses, it first stacked thicker and then thin.

• Sometimes they resort to the device of two rows of the frame, so first the insulation is installed in the first crate, for example, enshrined horizontally. From above, the vertical bars of the second row of crates are nailed onto it, while another layer of insulation is stacked between them.

Laying the insulation along the windows

• For laying material around windows from mats, strips of the desired width are cut off. It is necessary to measure them very carefully, since gaps should not be left between the creeway and insulation. In addition, it is impossible to assume that the material be fed outside - it is necessary to close as much as possible to the wall surface.
• The laying of mineral wool in a metal frame occurs in the same way as in a wooden, if it is fixed directly on the wall, and not removed from it with the help of racks.
• In this case, metal profiles are fixed by sideways, and the insulation is inserted into their grooves. Thus, an almost solid warmed surface is created.

Laying the insulation in a metal frame in two layers

• If a gap is formed between the wall and the crate, then first it is filled with insulation. Moreover, if there is a need, the mats are cut off so that they can docile tightly with each other, forming a solid basalt cloth along the wall. The next layer of thermal insulator is already installed between metal profiles.

Windproof

• After all the insulation layers are laid out, the remaining slits (if they were) between the blocks are legity, the entire surface of the wall must be tightened with windproof membrane. Some parts of which are glued with a special tape or combined on the elements of the crate. In any case, the canvases are caught up with 100 ÷ 150 mm.

Pour dowel- "fungus"

• After that, the entire design is stitched by plastic fasteners with wide hats - "fungi".
• Through through holes in insulating "pie" and the wall are drilled. A dowel-"fungus" is inserted into the hole until the stop, and is fixed by the proplining plastic rod. "Fungi" should tightly press the insulation to the wall, holding it in the desired position.
• Further, on top of the bars or frame profiles right on top of the windproof membrane, the bars are bolted or the bars are bolted, which will help create a ventilation gap.

Insulation tightened the membrane. Installed bars controls. Everything is ready for montage siding

Montage of siding on a warmed surface

If it is pretty able to deal with siding installation technologies, it will be quite simple, and even a beginner builder will cope with such a task:

	If the structure has a protruding part of the base, the installation can be started with the installation of the lowrow.
	If the sump is not provided, then the first step of the siding installation is to secure the starting profile according to a predetermined horizontal markup at the lower boundary of the siding cladding. In different sets of this finishing material, starting bands may have a different configuration and appearance. Pay attention to the specified gaps when installing the profile. The starting profile of the upper part has a lock connection that will be snugged with the above panel.
	When fixing any elements of siding, self-tapping screws are not completely screwed. There should be a gap of 1 mm between the hat and vinyl details. Self-tapping screws are screwed in the center of fixing sliding holes available on the mounting plars.
	Next, an angular profile is mounted, which should be located with a technological gap of 6 mm from the ends of the starting plank. Fixing details need to be monitored so that profiles are fixed strictly vertically and horizontally, so these parameters must be constantly monitored by the construction level. When installing the vertical profiles, the upper screws should be located so that the item "hung" on it. The remaining self-tapping screws - as a general rule: approximately in the center of the mounting sliding hole.
	So, if necessary, corner profiles are spliced.
	The finish planks are installed around the window frames. Then they are inserted into them and fixed on the crate of a near-room platbands in which the end sides of the siding panels will be hide.
	The same elements are fixed in the doorways. At the corners, profiles are neatly cut off at an angle of 45 degrees so that when they dock them, they formed a straight angle. The diagram is well shown how to provide a flow of water from the top profile-platband.
	The next step is the installation of H-profiles, which serve to dock the ends of the siding panels.
	Since siding panels have a certain length, which is often lacking on the length of the wall, they are connected to each other in the n-profile. This vertical border must be applied in advance when conducting markup.
	This element is fixed vertically on the lamp timing. He, like all other elements, is not screwed to the crate tightly, but should move on self-drawing freely.
	Next, it is set to install the first siding panel with fixing it on the initial lock lock. The ends of the panel are becoming at the grooves of the corner profile and the H-profile (or the door profile or windows). Be sure to follow the full snatching of the lock part.
	The rules for attaching panels by self-draws does not change - in each vertical guide crates in the center of the sliding hole with leaving the gap. Usually the self-tapping screw to the end, and then turn away by 1 turn.
	It should be noted that the compound or extension of the length of the panels can be carried out without the use of the H-profile, setting them to the brass of 25-30 mm. To do this, it is necessary to cut the locks and fasteners of the panels. How to do it right - clearly shown in the scheme.
	Installation continues in the same order from below. Each subsequent panel engages the lock part behind the underlying. Regularly, no less often than each third row, the horizontal of the siding panels is controlled.
	To complete the wall cladding, you must carefully install the top panel. Almost always it has to be customized in width. It should be docked with an upper finish plank, which is fixed in advance along the upper boundary of the facing.
	In this picture, it is well shown how such a pillaby should be made.
	To do this, it is measured from the whole panel and cut off its upper part with the mounting plate on the measured width. Used to install will be the bottom side, with the lock located on it.
	On the resulting narrow panel there is no lock part. To eliminate such a drawback using a special breakfast (PuNSON), the hooks are made to which the panel will snap into the face and rejuven into the front side. The hooks must be located at a distance of 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b200 mm one from the other.
	After that, a narrow cropped panel at first clips with the bottom panel lock, and then the hooks made snapped under the top bar of the finishing profile movement upwards.
	During the installation of the panels, it is necessary to calculate and remove unnecessary parts of the plastic on the installation of the panels. To do this, the panel at first is planned the boundary of the window (according to the previous one-time or finishing profile installed earlier, and then the technological indent of 3 mm is made from it. Next, cut out the intended fragment and make hooks - as well as it was shown above.
	Under the window bar located below the opening, the vinyl panel prepared and carved in size is mounted on the panel below and is screwed into the screws through the fastening holes on the sides of the window frame.
	In order to enjoy the fronton, on the direction of the rod and lower side of the triangle, the J- profiles are mounted in which the siding panel will be installed. You can apply profiles for internal angles. To properly withstand the cutting angle of panels, you can use a fairly simple scheme shown in the picture.
	This figure shows the only place where the self-tapping screw can be screwed outside. The remaining profiles are installed on hidden fasteners.
	From the outer side of the roof of the roof, the ends of the panels are closed with a wide J- profile, inserted into the finishing bar attached on the cornily. The profile of the inner corner between the fronton and the sve can be replaced by two J- profiles.

Several important comments:

• So that all the elements of the skin are fixed smoothly and without flaws, before installation, you must first spend thorough markup.
• All shelving elements are fixed at a certain distance from each other. The magnitude of the lumen is indicated in the patterns, and it is mainly from 3 to 6 mm. These gaps are necessary for the free expansion of the material during temperature drops, without the overall deformation of the entire wall cladding.
• All vinyl finish elements must be fixed freely, without prior voltage of the material.

And in conclusion, it video about the process of insulation of walls for further cladding siding:

Video: Technology Wall insulation under siding

A tree is the best heat insulator and does not need additional insulation. But some owners understand that the tree is intense and he needs protection, so the question immediately arises how to warm the wooden house outside under siding.

The wooden house is easier to prevent the formation of dampness than fighting it. The appearance of fungus and mold can be seen visually as stains on a tree or feel their specific smell. These signs say that the house needs urgent "treatment".

Increased wood moisture - consequences

Dampness is the most common and most malicious lesion factor for wood. Such material needs a minimal moisture value in both the wood array itself and indoors. If in one of these cases an enlarged indicator, then in a wooden house, problems with dampness begin. Usually the masters still at the stage of the construction warp the moisture increasing. The first thing is checked by the level of humidity of building materials: boards, timber and logs. Wooden products allow the level of humidity from 15 and a maximum of up to 20%.

What happens to the log at an elevated humidity level? First time everything will be fine, but when your home starts to sit down, the displacement is formed, which will be much more than it should be. As a result, you will get big gaps and curves between the wet seams. And this is not all, the problem of the formation of blue will appear. It is formed when the cold is exposed to wood with excess moisture. Simply put, the tree begins to freeze. Further change of climatic conditions does not save the situation, wood shines, drawn and comes in disrepair.

Heat insulation materials

Woodering of a wooden house outside under siding will be ineffective if it is incorrect to perform thermal insulation. The range of construction materials offered by the market in this direction is very large. Among the most common thermal insulation solutions for a wooden house can be allocated as follows:

• stone wool;
• slag;
• glass gaming;
• polystyrene foam;
• styrofoam.

Stone Vata.

Basalt Wat is a material that for all properties and characteristics is the best for the exterior insulation of facades. The only significant disadvantage of the material is a high price. Such insulation of the house for siding will fly to you in a penny, but the unique distinctive properties of stone wool will block this disadvantage.

This insulation under the siding for a wooden house has such properties:

• thermal insulation;
• fire stability;
• durability;
• soundproofing;
• vapor permeability;
• moisture resistance;
• ecology.

Shagkovat

It is an inexpensive and affordable view of mineral wool. It produces from a vitreous or rocky mass, which is the waste of metallurgical enterprises. We usually insulate temporary structures or non-residential premises.

Advantages:

• the possibility of insulation of curvilinear surfaces;
• excellent sound insulation indicators;
• durability;
• low cost;
• easy installation.

Disadvantages:

• poorly tolerates temperature differences;
• has high acidity indicators;
• it is recommended to work with the material in overalls, since when it is installed, particles of fibers are peeled.

Builders using this outer insulation, consider to be slapped inexpensive and durable material with a long service life.

Glasswater

In the manufacture of glass gambles use the latest technology, so it is completely safe. Glasswater is a universal insulation of a wooden house for siding, as it is possible to use it at any temperatures.

Such insulation of a wooden house outside Minvata under siding has many advantages:

• frost resistance;
• fire resistance;
• glass gamble is convenient to use in hard-to-reach places;
• the material does not absorb moisture at all and at the same time passes steam;
• has water-repellent properties;
• low cost;
• easy mounted;
• environmentally harmless;
• resistance to temperature differences.

Disadvantages:

• subjected to shrinkage;
• has a low density;
• thermal insulation properties are a little worse than mineral wool;
• increased fragility of fibers.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The material is a plate made of foamed polystyrene. It is characterized by high strength, low moisture impairment and excellent heat-saving indicators.

Advantages:

• ease;
• cheapness;
• durability;
• the possibility of internal and outdoor insulation;
• corrosion resistance;
• low water absorption coefficient;
• simple warming of the walls of a wooden house with their own hands.

Disadvantages:

• combustion;
• unpaid.

Styrofoam

This is a white cellular material, 98% consisting of air. Material has excellent thermal insulation properties due to cell insulation. Heat the house under siding outside the foam is a way to protect the tree from the adverse environmental impact and save the inner space.

Advantages:

• has excellent thermal insulation properties;
• the material does not absorb moisture;
• on its surface, mold with fungus are not formed;
• easily cut;
• simply mounted;
• has an affordable cost;
• ease;
• when installing foam, no additional waterproofing is required.

Disadvantages:

• collapsed when contacting nitrocrasses;
• does not pass air;
• need additional protection against mechanical damage.

Wood house insulation technology outside mineral wool

Correctly performed insulation will allow to extend the service life of a church, improve the microclimate in the house and save on heating.

Preparatory work

The quality of this event will depend on the reliability and duration of operation of the insulation. You need to check the walls for gaps or cracks. They are cleaned of dirt with dust and blend with antiseptic means. For sealing cracks, you can use felt, moss or pass.

Frame device

The frame is made of boards with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 40 mm. They are screwed up vertically so that the distance between the 2nd adjacent boards was slightly smaller than the width of the seal. The shap is fixed with nails or self-drawing. The timing must be treated with antiseptic solutions.

Laying insulation

Mineral wool slabs need to be inserted between the frameworks of the frame so that there are no cracks between them. It is recommended to lay min cotton wool B2 layer so that the middle of the second plates layer combined with the joint of the first. Since mineral wool plates are elastic and hard, they do not need additional fastening.

Parosolation

This is a very important stage of wood house insulation under siding. Can be used:

• ruberoid;
• special vapor barrier film;
• polyethylene film;
• foil (aluminum).

You need to ensure the ventilation of the facade of the house under the film. This applies only to homes having smooth wooden surfaces.

Siding Mounting Technology for Insulation

This technology is very simple, so even a novice builder should not have problems.

1. We prepare the surface. All window sills, lamps, platbands and foals are removed.
2. A warehouse of a wooden bar or a metal profile is installed on the vaporizolation layer.
3. A thermal insulation layer is placed between the crate of the crates.
4. Mounting windproof film.
5. Finish house siding.

conclusions

If you consider the insulation technology briefly, the following will be:

1. Installation of crates.
2. Laying any heat-insulating material.
3. Installing the second crate.
4. Filling the insulation of the second cladder.
5. Installing a vapor insulating layer.
6. Installation of siding panels.

The insulation of houses is becoming more urgent with increasing prices for utilities. You can save well by making everything yourself and after studying how the private houses are insulated with their own hands. Considering that, for example, Moscow is quite cold and long in winter, a decrease in heating costs can significantly affect the family budget.

What to warm first?

Very good, problems in insulation see the inhabitants of high-altitude houses located next to the private sector. So, at the beginning of winter, the roof, where the snow quickly melts, clearly indicate the high heat loss in the attic. This can be revealed and with the help of thermal imager.

Considering that warm air rises upwards, and the cold - bottom, special attention should be paid to the ceiling and floor. Especially if the house without basement and stands on Earth. With outdoor warming at home, in no case cannot be forgotten about the base so as not to create cold bridges between warm and cold surfaces.

Also, a lot of heat leaves through the windows. And if all the slots around the openings are securely moistened, you should carefully look at the batteries. Their length should be equal to the width of the window, and the windowsill cannot overlap the radiator. After all, it is at the expense of convection that a heat curtain is created, which does not pass the cold from the street.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

Select the thickness of the insulation follows from the material of the walls, the thickness of these walls and the minimum temperature during the coldest period. According to SNiP, just 5 cm of foam or 13 cm vermiculite for insulation at home.

But this is an additional warming of window openings and reducing the walls of the walls.

If you need to provide minimal heat loss, it is better to use the calculator and calculate the individual thickness of the insulation. For example, for a wall folded in one brick, 10 cm minvata will be required.

This will allow only 37.20 kW peploter for the heating season, instead of 166 kW without insulation.

The same 10 cm Minvata will be enough to insulate the house from a bar with a thickness of the walls of 150 mm, heat loss will be even lower - only 34 kW. But the 35-centimeter walls from the gasoblock can be insulated with only 5 cm Minvata to provide 44 kW peploter.

Details about how to insulate private houses with their own hands

It is necessary to warm the private house with the mind, because to redo it is more expensive. You need to remember the basic rule - only external walls are insulated. The insulation laid from the inside will not only reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, but also will shift the dew point in the house.

Condensed moisture, which there is no place to evaporate, will cause mold formation, harmlessly by the building, but also the health in it.

The second rule of the construction of the cake of the walls is an increase in the vapor permeability of materials from the inner side to the outer. In other words, the frame must be maximally protected from moisture from the inside, and the steam falling into the material of the walls and the ceiling should evaporate freely.

If the vapor permeability is broken and water microparticles are delayed at some of the stages, it again leads to the development of fungi. Particular attention should be paid to the ceiling vaporizolation - warm and wet air rises up and, falling on a more hygroscopic inner layer of the insulation, can no longer evaporate through overlaps.

Materials best suitable for insulation

Of course, for independent insulation of the house, materials that do not require additional equipment are most suitable. Therefore, polyurethane foam and emotion applied by sputtering can not even consider - the cost of the equipment will not pay off when used for one house.

So, the simplest used:

• plates and rolls from mineral wool - the horizontal surface is simply fitted, to vertical they need to be tightly pressing, for example, self-draws with "umbrellas";
• polyfoam - glued to smooth surfaces with the help of a special composition and is additionally fixed by "umbrellas".
• vermiculitis, clamzite, sawdust - simply embank them with the desired layer in the pre-made formwork.

But for working with these materials, you will need a drill or a perforator to do the holes in the walls, the screwdriver for screwing the frame, saw or the bruk for cutting the bars. So do not think that warming on our own - the case is very simple, even if the hand is a bit naked on the home building.

Advantages, Disadvantages and Technology Installation of Mineral Insulation

Minvata is universal - it can be used for insulation of both wooden and brick buildings. Due to high vapor permeability, it will provide an optimal microclimate in the house without creating a greenhouse effect. But it is for the possibility of "breathing" this is so appreciated by houses from the bar.

Basalt plates in this regard are preferable. Warming technology is extremely simple:

1. A frame of 5x5 cm fraction is stuffed. It is attached to the wooden walls, it is attached by self-drawing, on concrete and bricks - dowels. Bruks are set by level and aligned with wooden linings.



2. The pitch of bars in the frame - 1 cm less than the width of the Mata of the insulation (so that he lay tightly, but did not fade). If warming is required by a large layer, the transverse bars are stacked on top of the first layer and stacked the second layer. The roof is also insulating the roof.



3. Brick houses can be insulated without the construction of the frame. Basalt plates are attached with special glue and fixed by "umbrellas".



4. For wooden houses, a ventilated facade is used with a mandatory gap between insulation and siding. In this case, the Ministry of Service closes the windproof membrane, and the locations of the punctures and all joints are sampled with butyl rubber scotch. On top of the windproofs, guides for siding are hampering, they will also provide the desired ventilation.



5. In the wet facade, the basalt wool is enhanced by the reinforcing grid and is placed. It is worth remembering that Minvata is a flexible material, so even a light kick around the facade can spoil the finish.

The disadvantages of mineral insulation are also there. In addition to the mentioned love of mice, it is hygroscopic, so requires good waterproofing. With incorrect ventilation, the mineral wool begins to mold, and over time it is weathered and placed.

It is necessary to remember the safety technique when working with a glasswater - fibers that hit the skin, cause severe itch. Basalt wool crumble greatly. If you get into the light dust is not displayed, so the person needs to be protected by a respirator and glasses.

Pros, cons and technique of insulation of foam

The main minus foam is its low vapor permeability, so that it does not suit the insulation of wooden buildings. In order not to create the effect of a plastic bottle when there is always increased humidity in the house, it is desirable to pay special attention to ventilation.

The advantages of polystyreneol is obvious:

• just mount - it is light, does not require a framework of a frame or formwork;
• easy to cut - does not forms dust and is completely safe;
• does not rot and does not fit;
• inexpensive and durable.

PPP plates on a flat prepared surface. You do not need to do the screed, but remove all the protruding elements will have. The foam is attached to special glue, and to improve adhesion the walls are pre-processed by primer.

Fixed expanded polystyrene with "umbrellas" with a slight indentation, and the caps are maintained by cement mortar to ensure tightness. The seams are closed with mounting foam, surplus are cut and also close.

The video contains all the insulation of foam insulation:

Bulk insulation and their features

Natural bulk materials are characterized by environmental friendliness and, in some cases, low price. So, inhabited in the forest edge, there will be no problems with sawdust, but the delivery of the ceramzit can do without it. Vermikulitis is much better than clay in terms of its qualities, since the only insulation is able to absorb heat. So it is best to apply as insulation insulated inside a wall frame.

For industrial scales, this is unprofitable, but private construction allows you to use bulk insulation even so.

If it is necessary to insulate the attic overlap, the easiest way is to pour 15 cm sawdust. They do not even need to close with waterproofing films.

The flaws also have:

• Thanks to its properties, absorb and evaporate moisture, the material itself perfectly copes with the removal of excess steam, lowering the humidity in the house. In addition, all bulk insulation are not suitable for mouse nests, which also speaks of their favor.
  The flaws also have:
• ceramzite is hygroscopic and heavy, so it is not suitable for large-scale warming of buildings on light foundations;
• vermiculitis is also quite heavy, but does not absorb moisture.

Any bulk insulation is best shown themselves on horizontal surfaces, and they are categorically not suitable for pitf roofs.

To build your warm house, it is enough to have the minimally necessary construction skills. And I will definitely work out!