Very often, when changing doors between rooms, we are faced with the question - how to properly install a door handle with a lock? With the help of this article you will be able to install a lock in interior door quickly, and most importantly correctly, avoiding the mistakes made by many inexperienced people. In fact, this is not a difficult process at all, experienced craftsman it takes up to half an hour, but an inexperienced person in this matter can suffer for several hours.
In this article we will look at the installation of the most common lock design today. This lock consists of the following parts:
Lock Mortise Tools
For installation interior lock a minimum set of tools is required, you most likely already have some of them, but if you have to buy something in addition, you will not incur large financial costs.
- Tape measure and pencil;
- Screwdriver or drill;
- Stationery knife;
- Chisels 10 and 20 mm;
- Spade drill or 23mm forstner drill;
- 2 mm drill;
- Wood crown 54 or 50 mm depending on the thickness of the door;
- Masking tape.
This is a list of the most optimal tools which you will need. For sale special sets for inserting locks, they are relatively inexpensive, but it will be even cheaper to purchase everything separately. Often, such kits include a 22 mm feather drill; it is also suitable, but then you will have to widen the hole for the latch with a chisel. 
Making holes for the handle of the lock mechanism
Like any installation process, the installation of a lock begins with markings. But before that, let’s protect the door leaf from accidental damage. For this masking tape We seal the end and plane of the door at the intended installation location of the lock, this distance is approximately from 90 to 110 cm from the floor. Pasted masking tape will not only protect our door from damage, but also make markings on it much more convenient.
First of all, mark the height of the location door handle with a lock. Most often, the handle is placed at a height of 1 m from the floor level. We measure this distance with a tape measure and put a mark on the plane of the door with a pencil.
When purchasing this type of lock, it always comes with a template for accurately marking the location of the holes. Cylinder lock mechanism different manufacturers may differ in diameter, so purchase a wood crown after purchasing the lock. If your lock kit did not include a template, you can print them from this article as pictures and use them when installing the lock. 
Gently bend the template along the line of the door ledge and attach it to the door from the end. Depending on the thickness of the door leaf, use a sharp object (a self-tapping screw or the tip of a feather drill) to mark the centers of the holes according to the template from the end and on the plane of the door. 
Using a screwdriver and a wood bit, drill a hole in the plane of the door. 
Advice: When drilling, be careful not to drill through the entire door at once. When, while drilling, the guide drill appears on the back side of the door, stop and start drilling with a crown on the other side, this way you will definitely avoid chips on the plane of the door leaf.
The next step is to drill a hole for the lock latch. According to the previously applied mark with a template on the end of the door, feather drill 23 mm, drill a through hole to the previous one. 
Keep the drill strictly perpendicular to the door, otherwise in the future the latch may become oblique and jam during operation.
The next step is to insert the latch into the end hole, align it with the edge of the door and trace it with a pencil along the contour of the decorative frame. 
After this, we take out the latch and, using a stationery knife, make an incision along the marked line in the top layer of the door leaf. And only then, using a chisel, we select the hole for the lock latch. The depth of the opening should be slightly less than the thickness of the latch frame; later, when you tighten the latch with self-tapping screws, it will be pressed into the wood and become flush with the plane of the door.
Advice: Many beginners immediately begin to cut under the latch with a chisel; this is incorrect, since the door leaf is covered with a film that can be damaged beyond the cut line with a chisel, so cut off the film first.
After selecting the groove, insert the latch into place and first, using a 2 mm drill, drill out the holes for the self-tapping screws and tighten the latch into place. If the latch fits into the hole tightly, then use a chisel to cut off the contact points between the latch and the hole. 
Let's start installing the handle. The handle is assembled according to the instructions supplied with it. When installing, pay attention to the location of the closing tongue on the handle; if there is one, it should be located inside the room.
On one of the cylinder mechanisms there is a rotating pin and holders for mounting screws. Remove the decorative rosette from the mechanism using the pin wrench from the kit and mount it in place, screw the second cylinder mechanism on the reverse side. 
When tightening the screws, do not overdo it - pinched cylinder mechanisms will not work as expected.
Install all parts of the handle in place according to the attached instructions, and the work on installing the handle is completed. In fact, this is done much easier than it seems; you can watch a video in which you will clearly see the entire process of installing the lock with your own hands.
Installation of the lock mate
The last step of installation door lock The interior door will have a counter installed on the doorway.
Close the door and make two marks on the doorway based on the width of the lock latch. 
Measure the distance from the corner of the door to the beginning of the latch. 
You should have the same distance from the edge doorway before starting to deepen the mating part. It is necessary to maintain this distance in order to further closed door I didn’t walk back and forth due to the movement of air in the apartment and didn’t knock. 
If the answer needs to be recessed into the door jamb, then we place it in place and outline its outer and inner contours with a pencil. If there is no need to recess, then we outline only the inner contour. It all depends on the gap between the door and the jamb. 
Using a drill of a suitable diameter (you can also use a feather drill, if the hole then does not protrude beyond the answer), drill a hole for the lock tongue and fasten the answer in place, having previously drilled 2 mm holes for the screws with a drill. 
Do not forget to widen the holes for the screws to a depth of 2-3 mm, since there are protruding parts in this place on the back side of the answer.
We install the striker in place by tightening it with self-tapping screws and try to close the door; if there is excess play, we eliminate it by bending the tongue on the striker. 
The insertion of the lock into the interior door has been completed, all that remains is to clean up the accumulated debris and enjoy the new handles on the doors.
Lock mortise with cylinder
Very often a situation arises when you need to install a lock on a door that already has a handle. Any lock with a cylinder is suitable for this. 
Such locks have a rectangular shape and therefore the insertion process may seem difficult without the use of special tools. In fact, such locks are installed quite easily and with a minimum set of tools. You can place them at your discretion - above or below the already installed handle.
Lock installation sequence:
Installation of the lock mate:
- On open door push out the regel ( retractable part lock) of the lock, that is, we close the lock with the key and, leaning it against the doorway, mark the height of the counter part, focusing on the edges of the crossbars;
- Using a tape measure or square, measure the distance from the edge of the door to the middle of the lock and transfer this distance to the jamb of the doorway;
- Using a feather drill, we drill a series of holes according to the markings and then combine the resulting holes with a wood drill;
- Having previously secured the response part to the jamb, use a utility knife to cut along the contour, and then use a chisel to select the countersunk hole for the response;
- We install the counter part in place and check the functionality of the lock again.
Also, such locks often come with handles; the sequence of inserting such a lock does not change, only the operation of drilling a hole for the handle is added.
Well, that's it, the lock is cut in!
Be sure to watch the video on inserting a lock with a cylinder, perhaps in it you will notice some subtleties that you did not understand from the article.
If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments. Good luck with the renovation!
Reliability metal doors will never replace the beauty and environmental friendliness of wooden analogues. However, such products have their own characteristics, and they also relate to the installation of locks. You can even do this kind of work with my own hands, if you know how to do it.
Required tools and components
Inserting locks into wooden panels requires the use of:
- wood drill;
- a set of steel crowns;
- a set of chisels;
- roulette;
- construction pencil;
- screwdrivers - slotted and Phillips;
- drills;
- screwdrivers;
- hammer.
The selection of the lock plays a very important role. In this case, they focus on the size of the structure. An excessively thick lock will not allow the required mass of wood to be provided on the left and right sides. If there is less than 1 cm of wood left there, the door will not be strong enough. A kick is enough for the entire canvas to crack.
Additionally, it is necessary to control the depth of the lock entry. Some of the canvases are thicker on the outside than in the center. The glazed part can also present difficulties. If you have to prepare a place to insert a large lock, it is easy to deform the material. As for fasteners, they must be selected in accordance with the instructions from the manufacturers.
Often get by with a drill or angle grinder fails. The optimal device for inserting locks into doors made of solid wood or other wooden materials counts manual frezer. Although "almost ready" lock mortise kits are relatively inexpensive, professionals advise choosing each tool individually. This allows you to finally be sure of its quality (both when purchasing and when renting). In addition, this solution helps to save money.
Sequence of work
If the product is selected properly, you need to correctly embed the lock into wooden door. They start by applying the lock to one of the sides, in the right place. Using a construction marker, trace the part - using the drawn lines you can finally determine whether the choice of lock and location is correct. If there are no errors, the position is marked on the end face of the door. When the set contains a special paper template, use it.
Take a feather drill, the thickness of which is chosen very carefully. Then, using a screwdriver, passes are prepared to form a vertical line. The outer edges of the holes must be mutually adjacent. If the required drill is not available, smaller drills can be used. They arrange holes in 2 or 3 tiers.
Now you need to take a chisel, which allows you to remove excess wood. A slotted screwdriver is a substitute for a chisel, but such a tool is not convenient enough. Then insert the product into the prepared place, circle it with a marker end strip and pull out the closing part. Strictly along the line, 0.2 - 0.3 cm of wood is removed. This will allow the lock to be deepened into the door, placing the bar flush.
This technique is used when installing locks to prevent the strip from hitting the surface of the box. If the gap is large enough, you can skip this stage. The next step is to mark on both sides the space for the key hole or for the lock cylinder. If the structure has handles, marks are also made for them. The lock is pulled out and drilled in the marked places.
Now you can insert the lock back and evaluate the correctness of the prepared holes. The larva (if any) is fixed with a screw from the end. Next, insert the square base from the handles, screw the handles themselves. The key is inserted and the lock is immediately checked. Opening and closing should occur easily, without the key rubbing against the wood.
Then it’s time to mark the holes for the crossbar elements and the striker plate. The easiest way to do this is to do it yourself using paste. When the door is fully open, the lock is locked and the end of one or more bolts is lubricated. Next, you need to open the bolt, close the door, and lock the lock. Normally it will not lock, however, paste tracks will appear. They will indicate how and where to make the holes for the counter block. They are drilled immediately to eliminate mistakes.
A counter plate is applied to the holes and a mark is made along its contour with a pencil. Using a chisel, remove part of the wood. This will deepen the bar. All that remains is to secure it. Now the door is closed and the lock is checked again. When everything works fine, decorative overlays are installed. That's it, you can enjoy it excellent result. There is nothing complicated about it.
To ensure an exact match between the actual and planned depth of the holes, electrical tape is glued to the drill. You can select the remaining wood with a chisel. Later the walls are leveled with a chisel. We must strive for groove sizes that will allow the inserted lock to coincide with the end face of the door. This means that when hollowing out a socket, periodic fittings of the product are required.
To make a shaped groove for a keyhole, you need to use a hacksaw. The edges are brought to perfect shape using sandpaper. Since they are not comfortable enough to work by hand, you can attach the paper to a screwdriver. Use thin drill the best thing. The installation of the strike plate for mortise and overlay mechanisms is no different.
It is recommended to choose a drill bit that is thicker than the lock. Usually several notches are drilled so that the web filler can be removed. When drilling is completed, use a chisel and chisel to remove excess debris. But all these rules may turn out to be useless if one more principle is not followed: as soon as something is measured with a tape measure, you must immediately mark it with a pencil or marker. Relying on your memory in such a responsible matter is extremely frivolous.
Handle type lock mortise
This manipulation definitely deserves a separate analysis. Experts recommend playing it safe and sealing the end of the door, as well as its surface, with masking tape. This should be done to prevent possible damage. As practice has shown, it is much more convenient to apply individual marks on the tape. And it will also serve as a clearly visible boundary, which you absolutely must not cross during work.
It is recommended to install lock handles at a height of strictly 100 cm above the floor. This type of lock must always be supplied with a template. Therefore, there are no special problems in marking. Since cylinder mechanisms can be different in size, you need to look for a suitable crown only after purchasing the lock. When using a template, do this:
- it is bent carefully along the line of the door protrusion;
- applied from the end side;
- make marks showing the centers of the holes.
In these places a hole is drilled in the plane of the door. It is not advisable to pierce through it. As soon as the guide drill comes out from the opposite side, they pause and start drilling with a crown from the inside out. This approach is truly professional and avoids splitting the wood. Then it's time to prepare the holes for the latch.
At the same time, they work in the marked places with a 2.3 cm drill bit. You need to go to the previous hole. The drill is held strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the door. Otherwise, there is a high risk that the latch will jam and work poorly. When the passage is ready, the latch is inserted into it.
Now you need to align the location of the element with respect to the edge. A pencil will help you trace the outline of the decorative frame. Next, removing the latch with a utility knife, cut the canvas along this line. When this work is done, use a chisel to select a secret cavity, which should be slightly smaller in size than the latch frame. You cannot clean out the cavity initially; this may result in damage to the film with a chisel.
Having prepared the groove, return the product to its place, tightening the latch with self-tapping screws. The holes for them are drilled in advance with a 2 mm drill. If the part moves slowly, you need to trim the contacting places. The assembly of the handle itself is done according to the manufacturer's instructions. It is imperative to pay attention to how the tongue is positioned (normally it always faces inside the room).
To learn how to embed a lock into a wooden door with your own hands, watch the following video.
Requires a minimum set of tools:
- Drill
- Chisel 19 mm
- Crown diameter 50 mm
- Spade drill 23mm wide
- Drill bit for wood or metal 4 mm
- Hammer
- crosshead screwdriver
- And a pencil
So, let's start cutting into the lock.
Drill a hole in the center with a 4mm drill bit.
We place the lock flush with the door and make a mark according to the fact
We drill through the hole with the same drill, maintaining a right angle.
Using a 50 mm crown we make a cut on one side of the door.
Attention!
Your specific case may require a different size crown.
Let's finish on the other side.
We take a self-tapping screw of a suitable length, close the door along the door frame and through the 50 mm hole, insert the self-tapping screw into the remaining 4 mm hole and, using pressure, make a mark in the door frame.
Using a 23mm feather drill, we cut a hole at the mark to a depth sufficient for the lock latch to engage.
Using the same drill, we drill a hole for the lock along the mark.
We insert the lock and make a mark with a sharp pencil to recess it into the door leaf.
Using a chisel, we make notches exactly according to the marks and make a selection so that the lock sits in the pocket, then we fasten it with self-tapping screws.
We begin to assemble the lock, insert it into the grooves outer part(it usually does not require disassembly).
Then carefully remove the decorative “cup” sitting in the grooves, then press the latch and remove the handle.
We connect the two sides with screws.
We insert the handle so that the latch operates.
Snap the decorative “cup” into place.
We attach the striker, make a mark, use a chisel to remove the excess and screw it on.
Done!))) A correctly embedded lock closes freely by pressing the door leaf until it slams.
Video explanation for installing the lock
Instructions for installing a door lock (knob)
1.Marking the door
On door leaf Apply markings to install the knob (lock) according to the template. Recommended distance from the floor is 965 mm.
2.Marking holes
After you have made the markings, drill two holes: 50 mm in diameter for the knob (lock) handle and 23 mm in diameter for the latch mechanism.
H. Installing the strike plate
Install the strike plate at the same height as the latch so that the additional tongue of the latch remains recessed into the body of the latch when closing, which is an obstacle when pressing.
4 Disassembling the knob (lock)
To disassemble the knob (lock), use a special key to press the spring-loaded latch at the place where the handle is attached and remove it.
5. Latch length adjustment
6. Installing the latch
Install the latch into the groove of the door (make sure that the bevel of the latch is directed towards closing the door). Install the cover plate with the rod so that the rod and coupling sleeves fit exactly into the grooves on the latch body.
7. Installing the knob trim(castle)
First, slide the inner jujube cover plate onto the rod and secure it with screws (or screws). Then screw on the outer part of the trim.
8. Handle installation
Install the handle so that the groove on the rod coincides with the groove on the knob handle, press the handle until it “clicks.”
9. Rearranging the mechanism in the halyard handle
For models of latches with a halyard handle (versions 01 and 03), installation is also provided for both left and right doors. To do this, it is necessary to remove the cylinder mechanism and the fixing mechanism from the handle body and swap them (according to the figure), in accordance with the side of the door opening.
Installation procedure.
1. Determine the installation location of the knob and apply markings, following the template and installation instructions.
2. Using the installed latch body, mark the installation location of the strike plate on the door jamb and select a groove for the strike plate.
3.Install the strike plate and secure it with screws.
4. Alternately check the operation of the knob from outside and inside the room.
5. For models of latches with a halyard handle (versions 01.03), installation on left and right doors is also provided. To do this, it is necessary to swap the locking mechanism and the cylinder mechanism from the handle body.
As you can see, fitting a lock into a door is not such a difficult task, the main thing is not to rush.
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Photographer: Vladislav Mazitov
Components of the door block: leaf, frame frame, fittings.
Input plastic doors have a U-shaped welded PVC frame with an aluminum (low) threshold. Balcony doors bordered by a frame around the perimeter.
We produce single-leaf doors (left/right-hand versions), double-leaf doors (with a mullioned or mullionless ledge, including with leafs different widths), with a vertical impost, adjacent blind or translucent filling of the box - according to GOST 30970"Door blocks made of polyvinyl chloride profiles."
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Marking:
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