Traditionally for installation scaffolding use metal or wood. Wooden structures are suitable only for one-time work. They have a simple structure, so anyone with basic woodworking skills can handle their assembly. Metal devices are reusable and dismountable; they can be reused on other objects. If you have the tools and knowledge of metal processing, it will be very easy to assemble scaffolding with your own hands.
Types of scaffolding
In addition to the type of material, scaffolding differs in functionality, fastening method and design. Based on these characteristics, structures are divided into several main groups.
Wedge
To connect the parts of the structure, a special wedge clamp is used. Such devices are very reliable, and, most importantly, durable. Their rigidity can withstand heavy weights and mechanical loads. Assembling wedge scaffolding with your own hands is very simple, and most importantly, after disassembling it is as easy to assemble as the first time. This design significantly speeds up and facilitates the work of lifting large loads and materials.
Frame
The basis of frame scaffolding is a rigid frame in the form of a frame. Similar devices are used in finishing and painting works. Horizontal and diagonal scaffolding elements are connected using knotted fasteners. The advantage of such forests is their low cost, they allow you to create convenient device without big expenses.
Pin
The parts of the pin scaffolding are fastened using metal pins. Such designs are most often used in conventional construction work due to the fact that they are more convenient to assemble on site. The time for assembling pin scaffolding depends on the length of the object; as a rule, the process does not take more than a day.
Clamp
For unusual buildings, complex structure clamp scaffolding is used. The frame parts are connected in a specific way, which is very popular in professional construction. Important characteristic in the installation and construction of drawings of such scaffolding, the step between the racks and crossbars is important. This distance is chosen depending on the configuration of the building and its dimensions.
General structure of forests
Regardless of the type of connection of parts of the structure and its type, all scaffolding consists of similar elements, such as:
- vertical ribs (racks);
- diagonal stiffeners (make the entire structure strong)
- horizontal cross members;
- jumpers for flooring;
- a boardwalk for workers to move around;
- stops that give the device stability and prevent it from falling back and forth;
- safety guard to protect workers from falling during work;
- ladder for moving between rows.
The number and size of elements varies depending on the scale and complexity of the object. To facilitate the assembly of the scaffolding, you can draw a schematic drawing.
Plank forests
Perhaps many builders and professionals have their own tricks for assembling and designing scaffolding; there are also many similar instructions on the Internet. Most of the structures do not differ in anything except the size of the racks and the thickness of the flooring. To understand similar instructions You should be guided by several dimensions:
- the step between the posts is 2-2.5 meters;
- the average width of the flooring is 1-1.2 meters;
- the structure should not be higher than 6 meters.
Compliance with these rules will create functional and safe forests. To construct scaffolding with your own hands, you will need:
- boards for thrust structures and beams 5-10 cm wide, you can use square and round beams;
- material for spacers and protective structure 3 cm thick;
- lintel boards and wood flooring- 5 cm thick;
- nails (it is not recommended to use self-tapping screws in such structures).
After preparing all the materials, you can begin assembly. First, 4 racks are fastened at a distance of 2-2.5 meters; to connect them, diagonal struts are used on all four sides. Then the lintel boards are mounted at the required level, and the flooring boards are attached to them. For protection, a fencing board is installed on the posts. The final stage is the installation of supports and the installation of stairs to reach the top of the scaffolding.
When assembling scaffolding from boards, it is worth considering the following nuances:
- racks and supports are attached in parallel, their location is checked with a building level;
- horizontal jumpers are used to attach the racks to each other;
- Crossbars can be added to the protective railings for better protection.
To extend wooden scaffolding, several sections are used, and boards are used to fasten them together. Fastener boards are placed directly on the supports.
Advice! Often, when fastening with nails, wood cracks where the fasteners are immersed. To protect the boards from such damage, it is worth drilling grooves in the places where the nails will be driven in.
Metal profile scaffolding
Metal products are more convenient if you plan to build several projects. They can be disassembled at any convenient time and reassembled in a new place. To mount the simplest scaffolding with your own hands (height 150 cm, width 100 cm and length 165 cm), the following instructions will do:
When the work is completed, it is enough to remove the bolts and disassemble the scaffolding into frames. The service life of such a structure is tens of times longer than the service life of wooden scaffolding. And when proper care they can last for many years.
Pros and cons of different designs
Construction devices are convenient when creating an object, but after the work is completed, the issue of their storage is acute. Even when disassembled, the structure takes up a lot of space.
Wooden devices can be dismounted, but this is not easy, especially if the boards were fastened with nails. And even plank scaffolding needs to be stored somewhere. In addition, in the places where the nails are attached, after disassembly, small cracks and crevices remain, which will contribute to rotting. Often solvent or paint remains on such structures.
Advice! If you still have dismountable metal scaffolding after construction, you can sell it at a good price or rent it out.
Self-assembled scaffolding is not suitable for working on large sites. As a rule, they are intended for buildings of 1-2 floors. Exploitation of forests at high altitudes is dangerous.
Such structures are used infrequently (for repairs or finishing of facades), therefore their installation is not always appropriate. Painting work can be completed without scaffolding.
Often scaffolding is made with a length of 6 meters, which increases its weight and cost. Such a structure will be problematic to move from place to place, and its disassembly and assembly will take a very long time.
Alternative to scaffolding
The assembly of scaffolding and its design should be thought through before building a house. If you will be hiring for finishing and repair work specialists, then you shouldn’t even think about how to make scaffolding. Typically, professional teams have a full range of equipment and tools, including scaffolding.
Often, when scaffolding is dismantled and after construction, scaffolding remains idle and is thrown away or sold. However, they may still be required for repairs or finishing works Oh. There are many other construction aids that can replace traditional scaffolding.
Before dismantling or renting out the scaffolding, you should make sure that the façade is in proper condition. Do not skimp on finishing work, otherwise you will have to restore the decorative layer. One of the most durable and easy to maintain facing materials considered a brick. Today you can find many varieties of this material, differing in colors, size and texture.
As a rule, others Decoration Materials(plaster, paint and paneling) will need frequent repairs, resulting in significant costs. To do this, you will have to hire a crew or rent scaffolding. If you have own design from profile pipe for finishing work - you can save significantly on cosmetic repairs. To store such a structure, you can allocate a separate room or build a simple shed.
During the construction or finishing of a house, you cannot do without scaffolding. To build them, you don’t have to turn to professionals; you can easily do everything yourself. The structure can be erected either from wood or from a profile pipe. The first structures will be disposable, but the second ones can be used a large number of once. Next, we’ll look at how to properly build both types of scaffolding with your own hands.
What does the structure consist of?
Before proceeding to the construction of scaffolding, it is necessary to clearly determine what elements they consist of. So, the design includes:
various braces that give rigidity to the structure;
floor crossbars;
boards that will serve as the floor of each floor;
supports that will give stability;
fencing;
staircase for ascending to the floors of a structure.
A homemade structure – isn’t it dangerous?
It’s very easy to make scaffolding yourself, but is it worth it? First of all, I would like to note that this is not a small portable design, but quite a voluminous structure, which then needs to be stored somewhere. Even if it is disassembled, the existing boards and pipes will need to be attached somewhere. It’s good if the house can be heated with wood, then it can be useful, but if not, the wood will simply deteriorate over time. WITH metal scaffolding everything is somewhat simpler - they can be rented out, but again, if there is a demand for them.
It is also worth noting that the use of hand-made structures is possible no higher than the second floor. The construction of scaffolding, especially of wood, at a higher height can be hazardous to health. In addition, you need to understand that if the structure will no longer be used, is it worth spending a lot of time on its construction? It might be easier to rent. Having assessed all of the above, you can decide whether homemade scaffolding is needed during the construction or renovation of a house. If the answer is yes, it will be necessary to create drawings where not only appearance design, but also indicates the amount of material required.
Installation of a wooden structure
In order to create a structure made of wood, you will need to prepare the following materials:
wooden boards for racks approximately 5x10 centimeters thick;
boards for the floor and crossbars 5 centimeters thick;
wooden boards for fencing and braces with a thickness of at least 3 centimeters;
In this case, the step between the posts should be approximately 2.3 meters, the width of the floor, in order for it to be safe to walk on, should be at least 1 meter, and the height of the structure should be no more than 5 meters. So, in order to create scaffolding from boards with your own hands you need:
use braces to fasten four posts together;
secure the crossbars at the required height;
fasten the boards that serve as the floor to the crossbars;
attach boards that will act as a fence;
install supports;
fix the ladder in the right place;
check the drawings.
All work on creating a structure made of wood is carried out only with the help of nails and a hammer (see video).
Metal structure
A structure made from a profile pipe is more reliable than a structure made from boards. When building a structure, it is necessary to take into account that the dimensions of one section should be approximately 1.5x1x1.6 meters (see photo). You also need to prepare materials such as:
pipe for supports with a cross section of 3x3 centimeters and a length of 1.5 meters;
pipe for braces with a diameter of 1.5 centimeters;
pipe for connections with a cross section of 2.5x2.5 centimeters;
the floor is made of boards about 5 centimeters thick and about 2 meters long;
So, in order to create a structure from a profile pipe you need:
cut pipes for braces for horizontal elements of 1 meter and for vertical elements of 2 meters;
cut two-meter braces at each end, which will greatly simplify their fastening;
connect two supports to each other with horizontal braces, the distance between which should be approximately 30 centimeters;
secure the connecting elements;
drill holes for bolts on the braces and supports;
assemble the structure from a profile pipe to the end;
clean the structure and paint it;
check the available drawings.
How to do without forests?
It is worth thinking about scaffolding even at the stage of creating house drawings, but if this does not happen, what is the right thing to do? If the construction or finishing work of the building is carried out by professionals, then there is no need to think about them, because every team should have such structures. If they have a chance self-construction lost or no more work is planned where they might be needed, the structure can easily be rented.
But in order for scaffolding to really no longer be needed, all finishing work must be carried out immediately to the highest possible quality. For example, it is better to use as finishing materials facing brick or other similar ones, because, for example, plaster and siding will require additional attention.
All high-altitude work is different increased complexity, and in this case you definitely can’t do without special devices. One of them is scaffolding. Their price is calculated in rubles/m², and even for the cheapest set (frame) it is about 140 - 145. Besides, where to put it then? Renting can also be expensive (from 55) if repairs or construction take a long time, which is what usually happens in practice.
Plus - there are some problems with transporting forests, since personal transport is not suitable for these purposes. In the field low-rise buildings(for the private sector) optimal solution- make them yourself.
There are opinions that it is better (and cheaper) to rent metal and wood scaffolding than to assemble it yourself. The main argument is that purchasing pipes will cost more. And such judgments are supported by economic calculations. Apparently, the authors of such comments live in city apartments and have a rather vague idea of what it means to maintain their home in proper condition (both the facade and the premises, the height of which, as a rule, exceeds the standard). But the owner has to do this regularly.
Moreover, the combination of materials such as metal (skeleton) and boards (flooring at each level) is considered optimal. One of the advantages of wooden scaffolding is (the second is the low final cost) that the structure after completion of construction (repair) is easily disassembled, and the material is used for other economic purposes. But there is also a significant drawback - a limitation in carrying capacity.
That is, such a device can only carry out work such as facade decoration (painting, siding), ceiling treatment, plastering and a number of others. During the construction brickwork or simultaneous stay at height of several people wooden scaffolding unsuitable. But the assembly of pipes and boards is universal in use.
The only difficulty is in making the right choice options for scaffolding and the method of fastening all structural elements. The cost of manufacturing such multi-level scaffolds is justified only if they can be disassembled and stored in a shed (on site or somewhere else) until the next use. But spending money on a non-separable, welded model is irrational, and hardly anyone will do it. It is impossible not to take into account such factors as the complexity of manufacturing, the strength of the structure and its stability.
Brief description of types of scaffolding
Clamps. Plus - the ability to change the geometry of the skeleton along any of the axes. The downside is the difficulty of installing/dismantling the structure. In addition, if it is necessary to increase the load-bearing capacity, you will have to buy fastening elements. In this case, wire alone, especially rope, is not enough.
Wedges. They differ from all similar models in increased reliability and durability. But manufacturing costs are immeasurably higher (primarily for holders). For the private sector this is not the best option.
Pin. Plus – light weight with the ability to withstand significant loads; ease of assembly (albeit relative). Disadvantage: high cost; high blood pressure on the ground. To ensure sustainability, a number of additional measures need to be taken. In the private sector, such forests are usually not used. The main reason is the complexity of manufacturing. This requires precise calculations and a welding machine.
Frame. Plus, the weight of the structure is small, but with proper drawing and assembly, such scaffolding can “carry” a load of up to 200 kg/m². The height limit is 50 m for a private building of great importance does not have. It is this model in the field of individual development that is considered the best.
What you will need
It is pointless to designate the exact linear quantities of structural elements - they simply cannot exist. The dimensions of scaffolding are selected based on the specifics of the work being carried out, the availability of space for their installation, the number of craftsmen simultaneously at height, and a number of other parameters.
All numerical values in mm.
According to the material:
- Duralumin. It costs less than steel, but such scaffolding is only suitable for low structures used for finishing work. They are not suitable for masonry construction due to their small size. bearing capacity.
- Steel. Such scaffolding for the private sector is universal in application. The explanation is quite clear - high strength and reliability of the frame.
By section:
- Vertical racks. Profile pipe 30 x 30.
- Spacers (diagonal, horizontal). Round pipe 15.
- Inserts (supports for fencing and decking). Profile 25 x 25.
To ensure sufficient strength of scaffolding decks - not lower than forty.
- Length – from 1600 to 2000.
- Width – within 1000.
- Height – 1550.
Those home craftsmen who for some reason are not satisfied with the given dimensions can take the following drawings as a basis.
Fasteners
- Bolts + nuts + washers + screws - for fastening metal elements.
- Self-tapping screws (for metal) – for fixing the boards at the place of installation.
Main stages of manufacturing
Preparing parts. First the pipes are cut. Even if a drawing has been drawn up, there is no need to rush with the boards. After assembling the scaffolding skeleton, their dimensions will still have to be clarified. This will eliminate unnecessary work if you need to adjust pre-prepared flooring elements to the location. ends round pipes(about 80) are flattened so that you can then drill holes for fasteners. To facilitate such “pressing”, it is worth making an axial cut (metal cut) to the specified length.
- Preparation of “horizontals”. Before using them in the frame assembly, inserts from the profile should be welded to each pipe in the places indicated in the drawing.
- Preparation of “verticals”. To ensure greater stability of the racks, a so-called mounting heel is welded on one end of each. Although it can be made removable - plate + profile section.
- Drilling holes in structural elements. Special attention– vertical and horizontal (racks, lintels). Mismatches will lead to distortions. Therefore, the part will definitely have to be changed, and this is an irrational use of materials.
- Setting up racks. The main thing at this stage is to ensure that they correspond to the vertical plane. The slightest distortion will significantly complicate the further assembly of scaffolding and will sharply reduce its load-bearing capacity. And it’s unlikely to make them more comfortable to work with. That is why all horizontal ties must be extremely identical (in length).
- Strengthening the structure. For this, diagonal spacers are used. The peculiarity of their fastening is symmetry. If this condition is met, then the entire load on the scaffolding will be distributed more evenly over the entire area.
- Making stairs. The practice of using homemade scaffolding shows that portable models are preferable to stationary ones. For efficient work(in relation to the private sector) one removable staircase is quite enough. It is small in size and can be easily removed and installed in another place if necessary. The material is the same - pipe.
- Construction of scaffolding. The boards are laid last, after final adjustment to size. They are attached to welded inserts with self-tapping screws.
To ensure maximum stability of scaffolding it is necessary:
- prepare “shoes” with the help of which the structure is leveled at the installation site. It’s easy to make them from boards with your own hands; preferably several pieces of different thicknesses. In the future, this will simplify the process of adjusting the position of the scaffolding relative to the ground;
- treat the soil in the area where they are planned to be used. It is leveled (if necessary) and compacted. This ensures that during the work there will be no shrinkage of the soil (under load) and distortion of the scaffolding.
- Most often, one section is not enough. In this case, more is done - two, three. To connect them into a single assembly, it is necessary to prepare adapters. The same profile (30 x 30) is suitable, which is cut into pieces of 100 and welded to the racks. To fix the sections, you can use U-shaped metal earrings. To make the connection as reliable as possible, you should also take a pipe for them, but with a slightly smaller cross-section (25 x 25) or diameter.
If you carefully look at the manufacturing process, it turns out that there is nothing complicated in assembling scaffolding. The main thing is correct calculation and accuracy.
During construction or renovation, it is often necessary to perform work at heights. With help ladder it will be inconvenient to produce them. For these purposes, you can assemble scaffolding with your own hands. Exist different variants designs that are selected based on the nature and complexity of the work. What is the best type of product to choose, how to assemble it or make it yourself, you can read in this article.
Scaffolding is widely used in repairs and construction. This is an indispensable attribute when performing interior and exterior finishing work at a certain height. The size and design of the scaffolding depends on the nature and complexity of the installation. The main purpose of this building element is to create comfortable and safe conditions when performing work. This increases work efficiency and saves time and effort.
Regardless of the type of structure, scaffolding must be reliable and durable, taking into account the location of people, materials and tools on it. The product should be placed on a prepared, solid and level area. The structure should be located at a distance of no more than 150 mm from the wall for external work and not exceed 100 mm for internal work.
Helpful advice! If the structure is used for a long time, it is necessary to provide ditches to drain rainwater from the site so that the soil does not wash out from under the racks of the device.
Scaffolding consists of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts, giving the structure spatial strength;
- flooring lintels;
- stops designed to ensure the stability of the structure and prevent it from falling;
- flooring made of boards where a person will stand;
- a fencing element to protect the worker from falling down;
- stepladders or ladders to climb to the required level.
The width of the flooring must be at least 1.5 m. The height between tiers should be at least 1.8 m. Gaps no more than 10 mm wide are allowed between the boards and boards. If a continuous flooring is being created, the boards can be overlapped along the length, having first beveled the ends of the elements.
Helpful advice! When performing external repair and construction work, it is recommended to use a façade mesh for scaffolding, which will prevent workers, materials and tools from falling. It will also provide protection for the finish from the sun, dust, gusts of wind and precipitation.
Depending on the composition of the functional elements and the option of their fastening, all scaffolding is divided into four types: wedge, clamp, frame and pin. The structures are attached, rack-mounted and collapsible. The exception is scaffolding, where frames are used instead of vertical posts. There are also hanging devices, which can not only be installed on the ground, but also attached to the building. These include clamp, cup and wedge scaffolding.
What material are scaffolding made from: photos of products
Scaffolding - the photos clearly show the different options - can be wooden, galvanized, steel and aluminum. The last option is the lightest and most mobile; it is advisable to use it for interior or exterior work at low heights. They are considered the strongest and most durable steel structures, which are easily repaired, which cannot be said about aluminum scaffolding. Galvanized products are also durable. Their main advantage is resistance to corrosion, so this best option for outdoor use where they can stand long time under adverse weather conditions.
The price of scaffolding made of steel and galvanized steel will be much higher than that of analogues made of other materials. In addition, such structures are the heaviest, which complicates their transportation. However, such forests can support not only people, but also necessary tools and materials. Therefore, steel and galvanized structures are most often used for large-scale construction and installation work.
Today, metal structures from the Dmitrov Scaffolding Plant are very popular. Products are characterized high strength, reliability, durability and reasonable cost.
Except metal scaffolding often used wooden crafts, which are simple and economical to implement. You can easily make them yourself from scrap materials. However, this design is more cumbersome. Despite the fact that it is collapsible, like other analogues, the boards, due to the fact that they will be dirty and damaged by nails, can hardly be used for other events. This product is designed to perform work at a maximum level of the second floor.
Frame collapsible scaffolding: price of products
Frame-type scaffolding is the cheapest and easiest to use option. The structure includes ready-made elements from welded hollow pipes in the form of vertical frames, supports, horizontal and diagonal connections. Due to the fact that a lot of metal is not spent on the manufacture of elements, the design is characterized by light weight, quick installation and disassembly.
Assembly of frame scaffolding is carried out using flag fasteners or clamps. Such designs are used both for interior decoration premises, as well as during external plastering and painting works of buildings with a simple facade. Due to their low weight, scaffolding can be easily changed into sections, as well as moved to another location.
You can buy construction materials frame scaffolding one of the types: LRSP-30, LRSP-40, LRSP-60 and LRSP-100, where numeric value indicates the maximum installation height. However, the designs differ not only in dimensions, but also in the diameter of the pipes and the wall thickness of the constituent elements. The first two types are produced with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm, and the other two are 48 and 3 mm, respectively. The price of construction frame scaffolding starts from 125 rubles/m².
The structures can be equipped with wheels, which makes it easy to move the unit on flat ground. The standard dimensions of the product are the following: section height - 2 m, length - 2-3 m, passage width - 1 m. To perform one-time work, you can rent frame scaffolding, the price will be 55 rubles / m².
Installation of scaffolding: sequence of actions
Shoes and wooden spacers are installed on a prepared, compacted, level area. If necessary, screw supports can be placed. Adjacent frames of the first tier are placed in the shoes, followed by connecting them diagonally and horizontal connections. The next two frames with ties are placed in increments of three meters. The process is carried out until the lightweight frame scaffolding of the required length is created. Fence frames are mounted along the edges of the structure, followed by installation of stairs.
Important! The supporting surfaces must be located strictly in a horizontal plane.
Next, they begin to install the second tier, which is also connected by ties, but the diagonal elements are staggered relative to the previous row. Here you can use crossbars on which wooden flooring is laid. To move people between tiers, inclined stairs are installed in areas designated for hatches.
Frame scaffolding is attached to the wall in a checkerboard pattern in 4 m increments using hooks with bushings or plugs with clamps or brackets attached to the scaffold frame posts. The above actions are carried out until the required installation height is reached.
On the safety and working tier there are longitudinal and end connections of the fences, which are mounted in a place where there are no diagonal ties. Scaffolding is installed vertically. Dismantling of dismountable scaffolding is carried out in the reverse order, starting from the top row.
Mobile scaffolding on wheels
The most profitable option to carry out quick repair are scaffolding tours, which are considered a type of frame installation. The design is characterized by strength and ease of assembly. The installation is made mobile by wheels located at the base. vertical supports. A significant advantage of the tower tower is the presence of a jack in the design of the device. The height of the product does not exceed 20 m. The load capacity of the installation is 300 kg/m².
The structure is made primarily of aluminum, which makes it light and easy to move. Less commonly, you can find steel tours that have high strength and reliability, but are characterized by reduced mobility due to their heavy weight.
Tower towers are actively used in the installation of air conditioners, lighting, video surveillance, banners, billboards, cornices, finishing walls and balconies, repairing gutters and roofs. There are two types of design: non-removable telescopic and collapsible. In the first option, a special mechanism is provided, thanks to which the tour extends to the required height. This type is used indoors.
For external finishing or repair work, collapsible towers with more complex design with supports and diagonal braces. Each subsequent section is built into the supports of the lower module on bushings, resulting in a dimensional structure. With an installation height of 1.3 m, the structure is equipped with railings and sides. Today you can rent a tower or buy scaffolding, the price of which is in the range of 150-200 rubles/m².
Mobile scaffolding on wheels should be used in cases where the installation location will need to be changed frequently. Special brake screws are used to secure the structure in place.
Clamp scaffolding: design features
This type of scaffolding is the most labor-intensive to assemble, since each connection of vertical supports with horizontal, diagonal and cross-linked carried out using special clamps, which are tightened wrench. Fasteners can be blind or rotary. Depending on this, the connection of the racks can be made at right angles or at any angle, respectively. Due to the fact that the installation of the structure requires a large number of fasteners, clamp scaffolding is the most expensive.
Helpful advice! When assembling the structure, you can combine clamps, which will allow you to create an installation of the desired configuration.
Thanks to the presence of diagonal connections, the structure is durable, reliable and stable. However, this is the most difficult scaffolding option to install and dismantle.
The main advantages of the design are the possibility of manufacturing an installation of any shape and the feasibility of combining it with another version of the auxiliary rack-mount metal structure. Such a structure is mounted along the perimeter of a building of any configuration, even if there are protruding elements. The device can be used for inclined structures.
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Manufacturers produce various options clamp-type scaffolding, differing maximum height installation, which can range from 30 to 80 m. Standard width scaffolding - 1-1.5 m, layer pitch - 2-2.5 m. These parameters vary depending on the configuration of the structure. Maximum load per structure is 150-250 kg/m. The unit can be purchased or rented. The price of scaffolding starts from 250 rubles/m2. Rent will cost 80 rubles. per m2.
Helpful advice! Clamp scaffolding is recommended to be used to create stages and stands.
Wedge construction mobile scaffolding
This design is created from functional elements using a special wedge fixation. Pipes with flanges are used as vertical components, and pipes with holders are used as horizontal components. To make the unit mobile, it is recommended to equip it with special wheels. Such scaffolding is characterized by strength and reliability. When installing the installation, you can change the direction angle of the connecting elements, thereby creating multi-level structures various configurations.
Manufacturers produce wedge scaffolding with dimensions: section height – 2 m, length – 2-3 m, passage width – 1-3 m. The structure can have a height of 60 and 100 m. The installation can withstand a large load of up to 500 kg/m², so the device used during the construction of complex objects when heavy components and materials are lifted.
Helpful advice! To ensure the safety of people who may be near the construction site, it is recommended to purchase scaffolding mesh designed to fence the facade of the building.
Scaffolding is easy to use, but requires labor-intensive installation. The design is characterized by versatility, due to which it can be used not only in the construction of buildings, but also in the construction of stages, stands, canopies, and overpasses. This is an indispensable installation in shipbuilding and aircraft construction. The cost of the structure starts from 425 rubles/m². You can rent scaffolding for 85 rubles/m².
Pin Type Collapsible Metal Scaffolding
Such designs are very popular in construction sites thanks to easy and quick installation and disassembly of the unit. As a connection point in scaffolding, pins are used, which are located on load-bearing supports. They are connected to the holes in the pipes of the connecting elements. The installations are characterized by strength, reliability, rigidity, stability, wear resistance and durability. They can be used repeatedly, easily transported from place to place in disassembled form.
Due to its high load-bearing capacity, the structure can withstand a significant amount of heavy building materials. Such scaffolding is used in areas with complex terrain and during construction and installation work on structures with a curved configuration. The disadvantages of the design include the large weight of the installation, which is associated with a significant amount of metal.
Today, pin-type scaffolding is sold in the following varieties:
- LSh-50 – up to 50 m high, sectional height 2 m, length 1.5-3 m, passage width 1-2 m;
- LSPSH-2000-4 – height 40 m, passage width 1.6 m, section height 2 m, length 2.5 m;
- E-507 – height 60 m, passage width 1.6 m, length and height of sections 2 m.
You can buy the structure from 519 rubles/m². Also, some companies offer to rent the installation. The price of m² of scaffolding is 90 rubles/m².
DIY wooden scaffolding
If you want to save money and have wooden materials at hand, then you can create the structure yourself. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you should study the requirements for the product so that it is durable and reliable.
Distance between vertical posts should not be more than 2.5 m. The installation height reaches 6 m. The width of the flooring can be any, but not less than 1 m. It is important that not only a person can fit on it, but also the tools and materials necessary for the work.
For supports and racks, wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm and boards - 50x100 mm should be used. The thickness of the products for spacers should not be less than 30 mm, and the thickness of the flooring - 50 mm. For stiffeners you will need products with a thickness of 25 mm. Thin boards can be used as fencing elements. To create a reliable structure, it is necessary to use only construction nails. Self-tapping screws are not capable of creating a reliable connection.
Helpful advice! When installing wooden scaffolding, care should be taken to ensure easy disassembly. For this purpose, it is not recommended to hammer the nails in completely, and you can also use a wooden spacer between the structure element and the head.
After the installation package has been prepared, we begin to assemble it. Work begins with large functional elements. Two beams are laid on a horizontal surface at a distance along the length of the structure so that the tops of the elements converge slightly, which will add stability to the installation. For example, if the distance between the lower ends is 3 m, then between the upper ends there should be no more than 2.6 m. Sidewalls are attached to the inside of the supports, which are the basis for the decking. A similar operation is performed with two other bars.
Helpful advice! The side cross members must be of different lengths to result in a pyramidal structure.
The sides are positioned vertically and tilt towards each other to provide stability. The position is fixed with long transverse nails. To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall of the structure, it is recommended to make the crossbars with an allowance of 20-30 cm.
The racks are installed at a distance of 2-2.5 m, which depends on the thickness of the boards used for flooring. The elements are attached to each other using bevels, thanks to which the structure will not fold to the side. The more jibs and cross members, the stronger and more reliable the scaffolding is made with your own hands. If the height of the structure is more than 3 m, it must be additionally secured to prevent it from falling forward. To do this, they install jibs, which, on the one hand, are nailed to the beams, and on the other, buried in the ground.
The final stage is the installation of the flooring to the cross beams. It is also possible to additionally install fences above each platform to increase safety. If cross beams are added to the side elements, a staircase is formed. To give the structure stability, the ends of the supports should be sharpened and buried in the ground.
Scaffolding and construction trestles
Attached scaffolding is used for simple finishing work where lightweight materials are used. Wooden structures lean against the surface of the wall of the building and are held by the stop. Despite the fact that the installation looks unreliable, it is convenient and safe to work on it. There are two versions of the attached scaffolding: traditional and Armenian. The first installation is simple and reliable, but it is not height adjustable. It can be used for hemming the roof overhang, installing gutters and other work that is characterized by a slight variation in height.
Armenian forests are made from minimum quantity materials, easily and quickly assembled, moved and disassembled. The main thing is to make triangles, raise them to a given height, place them in 3 m increments and support them with inclined beams that are fixed in the ground.
At exterior decoration For single-story buildings and for work on gables, construction trestles are used, where the flooring is laid on wooden crossbars. Installations are also used in cases where nothing can be supported on the walls. The design is non-bulky and lightweight, it can be moved to the desired location.
The construction goat is a quadruped wooden structure, resembling the letter “A” in shape, the height of which reaches the height of the master. The number of spacers can be arbitrary. Conventional canopies are used to connect the upper ends of the supports. The legs are fixed with stops. On one side the stand can be made vertically, without tilting. This will allow you to install the structure closer to the wall, which is convenient when painting, caulking or preventative treatment.
Thanks to the many options for scaffolding, it is possible to select the structure required to complete specific works. When choosing a product, it is important to take into account not only its cost, but also the terrain, the surface to be treated, and the timing of the work. Based on this information, it is easy to choose your type of design for each case.
Hello dear Semenych! I've been building a house for 3 years now, and finally it came to covering it with siding. A problem arose in the scaffolding. Question: How to act more rationally and profitably? Rent scaffolding? To put together - how exactly?
Evgeniy, Gorno-Altaisk.
Hello, Evgeniy from Gorno-Altaisk!
Judging by the image of the photo and the inscription, you belong to the category of those who delved into my entrails three times. To avoid giving your colleagues the pleasure of doing the same to you, take scaffolding seriously.
With our construction teams (which change almost every year, including due to natural decline), when installing siding on the walls and gables of houses, we use both scaffolding and simply ladders.
Aluminum folding and retractable stairs are preferable, allowing their use at heights from the beginning of the second floor to 18 meters. At least I haven’t seen a longer one on sale. The presence of a crossbar at the upper end of such stairs is enough to prevent the siding from being pushed through when they rest on it. True, traces of metal remain on light-colored sidings and then have to be washed off with solvents and shampoos.
Wooden stairs, with their lengths of more than 6 meters, are a bit heavy, you get tired of moving them, and even if they rest on the installed siding, and this happens, they can push through it.
In any case, if it is necessary to install siding at a height of more than 6 - 7 meters, wooden stairs, as a rule, are not used. And aluminum ladders are not at all conducive to productive work, since you often have to go down to the sinful ground for the necessary material. Even if there are assistants on it feeding sheets of siding.
When it is not possible to have your own scaffolding (there is nowhere to store it, or bad people stole it right from a facility under construction), then you have to borrow it from colleagues for a while or rent it from organizations that do business with it.
In our area, one day of renting a minimum amount of scaffolding, sufficient for a more or less tolerable installation of siding, costs from 800 - 1000 rubles per day.
The most popular scaffolding is old Soviet-made from steel pipes a couple of meters long (transverse), 3 - 4 meters (racks) and a diameter of about 60 millimeters. The advantage lies in their reliability and durability. The disadvantage is the heaviness.
Nowadays, steel ones are more in use, but with a diameter of about 40 millimeters, and aluminum analogues are somewhat less common. All possible lengths and mounting methods. Advantage: lightweight, quick to install. The disadvantage is that it is less reliable than Soviet-made ones.
Even less common are aluminum scaffoldings with two ten-meter stand-sets and a six-meter platform (half a meter wide), which is raised with the help of manual winch. You sit down on such a platform, turn the handle and, like Baron Munchausen, you lift yourself up.
About five years ago, with the help of such forests, installation work in one research institute.
Crowds of designers looked with undisguised interest original design. However, you can hardly rent such forests.
With sufficient experience in installing siding, and this is acquired in the process, two or three people cottage with dimensions of 6/6 meters and with attic gables, they are sheathed in 2 - 3, maximum 4 days.
It’s best to work with three people, when two people install all the siding elements, and one person uses a grinder to cut the plastic to size and feed it.
To optimize labor costs in terms of time and in the absence of scaffolding, we use ladders, supplementing them with construction trestles and scaffolds. We fasten them well to the ground, we place ladders on them with the emphasis on padded bars. For insurance, we screw them in with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver (great thing! I recommend it). Or we attach it with wire/rope/.
We make goats with a height of 1 to 2 meters, no more, otherwise the whole town will shake.
Sometimes we do the following - we install siding from stairs (and trestles /emphasis on the first syllable! otherwise you might think.../) to the fullest possible height. And only then we rent scaffolding. Then their payment is made in less time.
But more often we take scaffolding from colleagues we know; today they give it to us, and tomorrow we help them with something.
One of my friends, though unlike you, is a neurosurgeon, does not take bribes or greyhounds, and when the need arose, his grateful patients simply got him the forest for a while. And OBEP will not find fault.
In my opinion, it is not rational to put together scaffolding purely for the installation of siding. Moreover, if you install them along the entire length of the wall of the house (that is, at least 6 meters). You'll waste a lot of time, and you'll need a lot of material. It’s good if this material can be used somewhere else later. And due to its bulkiness, it is difficult to carry scaffolding around the perimeter of the house. Less, but rather more is necessary, as four men cannot do it. It will have to be partially dismantled.
Although the taste and color... Not later than today, I saw a neighbor in the garden, who alone built something similar from 6 meter boards. True, he’s been building his house exactly twice as long as it takes you, and there’s no end in sight. One is building.
In any case, if you decide to do this, then thoroughly fasten the lower ends of the rack boards. And attach their tops with wire to the walls or roof of the house. Not forgetting that the fasteners will also interfere with the installation of the siding when you get to this fastener.
Wooden scaffolding of this type is made from vertical 6-meter posts. You're unlikely to get a longer length - it's not standard. The racks are edged boards with a cross section of at least 40/100 millimeters.
Such boards are placed on the ground, at a distance of about a meter from each other, and fastened together with transverse boards of the same cross-section. They are laid overlapping and secured with three or four “hundred” nails (or the mentioned self-tapping screws).
The crossbars are located at an approximate distance of one and a half meters from each other and everything is parallel to each other. At least three such sets are made.
Then install one such set vertically, next to the wall that you will cover with siding. The stand should not lean against the wall, but should be approximately 15 centimeters away from it, so as not to interfere with manipulations with the siding.
Place pieces of edged boards under the posts so that they do not sink into the ground. If the ground surface is not level, then adjust the installation of the racks with additional lining of such boards.
After one set is installed, it is temporarily secured in a strictly vertical position. Then, at a distance of about one and a half to 2 meters, a second such set is placed. With all the bells and whistles like the first one. Between these sets the boards are stuffed vertically, slightly diagonally. On one side and on the other side straight opposite directions. This will prevent the kits from folding and collapsing.
Diagonal boards from 4 to 6 meters long.
After two sets are already in place, they make a third one and install it in the same way.
Then they place it on the crossbars edged boards, usually “30” or “40” (these ones sag less) on which you will walk. Their length in our scenario is about 4 meters, or half a meter longer. For insurance, you can temporarily screw them to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. With the possibility of quick dismantling.
You don’t need a lot of such boards, because as you move higher for work, they are also transferred higher to the next crossbars.
It is better to climb onto these temporary platforms using a ladder that is placed on the side. It is not rational to fence scaffolding higher than 6 meters, since measuring standard boards are exactly this length and building them up without additional reinforcement is a hassle.
When you reach 8 meters in height (6 meters of forest plus your height), this will be your roof ridge.