What people will not come up with to justify their own laziness, and not take care of indoor flowers! For example, why does spathiphyllum not bloom? What to do? - they do not think. But they rack their brains over superstitions and look for ghostly happiness. Allegedly, only it is able to return the plant to its former beauty and become. Hey, comrades, have you tried to look after him? They say it helps. Let's figure it out.
Air humidity
Spathiphyllum is very fond of high humidity. If this is not observed nearby in the microclimate, then the flowers will have to wait for a very long time. In addition, the tips of the leaves will begin to dry out, then they will fall off.
The dubious owners clasp their hands convulsively, how does happiness leave the house! But more often they will not guess to spray spathiphyllum. Or, at worst, put a saucer of water next to it, a glass. Believe me, for the onset of flowering, and this will be enough.
Lighting
The big problem of many gardeners (lack of lighting) in the case of spathiphyllum is not threatened. On the contrary, he is very shady-loving. Of course, not enough to bloom flowers in the pantry or on the closet. But even on the windowsill, he will feel uncomfortable. Direct sunlight will quickly burn the delicate leaves, the abundance of light will greatly change the pigmentation, and unnecessary heat will quickly dry out the soil in the pot.There will definitely not be flowering with this content. If you really really want to cram the spathiphyllum closer to the light, then at least leave it next to the window on the table or bedside table. So he will be shaded with a curtain and the sun will not get to him. And there, you look, and flowers will appear.
No drafts
Spathiphyllum does not bloom in the wind. Does not like it when air currents sway leaves and abruptly change the ambient temperature. Therefore, try not to put it under an open window. Or at least cover up while airing the room.
Suitable pot
Inexperienced growers, after buying, often plant spathiphyllum in a huge tub for growth. Will be pleased beautiful picture on the Internet or an encyclopedia, they fold their pens and wait. It means that they are waiting for the carriage and flowering happiness. Only now the burdocks are growing. And the cobs with the white blanket are not to be seen. What's the matter?
The fact that many of the indoor flowers have one feature. As long as the roots have enough room in the pot, they feel quite at ease. They increase the leaves, the root system, but they are in no hurry to release the peduncles. But when there is practically no free space in the container for the growth of new roots, then such a longed-for flowering often occurs.
Spathiphyllum is no exception. In a pot that is too loose, he fattens. The owners of superstitions are turning gray on the sly, flowers are not to be seen, and the insidious comrade giggles quietly and actively gives new mugs and stepchildren.
Transplant it into a pot that just barely fits root system... And see how many peduncles appear at the same time in the very near future. The next transfer should not be in a large container. Only slightly larger in diameter. Otherwise, flowering will stop and the phase of growing green mass will begin again.
Proper watering
Few are puzzled that the flowering of spathiphyllum depends on competent watering. And rarely does anyone care about quality drainage. They pour themselves some water, not wondering how and when to water the plant. And even directly from the tap. Then the edges of the leaves begin to blacken, then the byaka spreads over the entire plate. What kind of flowers, if spathiphyllum rots alive, but still trying to survive with its last bit of strength?
No, he loves to drink, because burdocks evaporate a lot of liquid. But constantly sitting in a swamp is not pleasant enough. What to do? First you need to equip a good drainage system... And make sure that the roots do not cover the holes in the bottom of the pot.
Water must be defended by all means, at least a day. In this case, you need to mix it 2 times. This will allow the chlorine residues to evaporate faster. There is another option, freezing. For a day, they threw a plastic bottle with water into the freezer, then thawed and warmed up to room temperature. Now this liquid can be safely watered with spathiphyllum. By the way, this should be done only when the top layer of the soil is thoroughly dry. Approximately 1.5-1.8 cm.
Some time after the normalization of watering, flower stalks will appear.
Top dressing
Some growers do not care about additional fertilization of spathiphyllum. Say, the leaves grow, so the flowers will also grow. And here are the figurines! Such unfortunate owners can wait for cobs for years.
Do not be greedy, buy any mineral fertilizer for the plant. It is desirable that the complex contains a maximum of phosphorus and potassium, and less nitrogen. These two trace elements have a very beneficial effect on the formation of flower buds.
Just do not exceed the dosage, you can burn the roots completely. Instead of admiring the flowering, you will treat your poor woman. By the way, we deliberately do not give here the feeding rate per plant. We do not know which bag you will buy. You know how to read? So read, carefully and thoughtfully, all the manufacturer's recommendations, the frequency of treatments and the dose per 1 liter of water. We can only tell you: do not frequent. Add additional food for spathiphyllum no more than 1 time in 3 weeks. For an overdose will calmly and quietly destroy the plant.
If everything is done correctly, then soon it will change from anger to mercy, and will show its generous owners many flowers.
Temperature
The most comfortable for flowering spathiphyllum is + 21-24 ° С. Any fluctuation in plus or minus already negatively affects the state of the plant. It will not bloom. But some sources recommend even placing spathiphyllum for several weeks in a cool place with a temperature of no higher than + 12 ° C. Well, not monsters?
After such a test, the plant will bloom, everyone wants to live and leave behind offspring. But it is quite possible that in last time... Therefore, do not scoff, provide him in the least decent conditions. Moreover, the spathiphyllum is not so capricious and, in fact, very grateful.
Sometimes in the spring, spathiphyllum begins to bloom luxuriantly. The owners admire the beauty of the snow-white bedspreads and are in no hurry to remove the faded ears. And in vain. This greatly weakens the plant and inhibits the formation of new peduncles. When is it time to cut old flowers? As soon as the shade of the bedspread begins to change from white to green or brown.
Add some small chips from the bark to the soil for planting spathiphyllum conifers trees. This will give her the necessary level of acidity that she loves so much. flowering plant... It doesn't matter if you yourself collected the soil mixture or bought ready-made soil, add it without fail.
Do not forget that the plant can be weakened by pests or diseases. Periodically carefully inspect it from all sides for uninvited guests or signs of oppression. Pay particular attention to the underside of the leaf plates, growth points and root zone. It is there that enemies prefer to settle. Ailments are usually manifested by changes in pigmentation and turgor of burdocks. Naturally, the damaged spathiphyllum will not bloom unambiguously.
Move him to quarantine, get rid of insects using an insecticide. Diseases can be defeated with fungicides and normalization of conditions of detention. By the way, a strong, healthy plant will successfully overcome most of the pathogenic bacteria. If you properly care for the spathiphyllum, it will not only defeat sores, but also show you charming flowers.
By the way, did you know that you can not separate young plants from the mother ahead of time? Spathiphyllum reacts very nervously to such interference and refuses to bloom. Don't be in a hurry to divide. If both plants look great on the outside, why bother them? Let your bush be even more magnificent and beautiful.Remove old dried leaves in a timely manner. They can become a breeding ground for putrefactive bacteria and certainly will not add decorativeness to your spathiphyllum. True, such a procedure does not affect the process of peduncle formation in any way, but beauty should be in everything.
Why does spathiphyllum not bloom? What to do? Stop bullying him and start caring properly. And further. Forget all these superstitions about female happiness and its relationship to plant well-being. I assure you woman's happiness looks completely different and certainly does not depend on the indoor flower.
Video: how to make spathiphyllum bloom
Hello to all! Does female happiness live in your house? I'm talking about the spathiphyllum flower. What did you think about? Having this plant is a sign that happiness has settled in the house, that a woman is desired and loved. Well, when unusual inflorescences appear, it is not only beautiful, but also suggests that love and understanding between spouses is now at its peak. What if there are no long-awaited flowers? What to do? How to make spathiphyllum bloom at home ? Let's talk about this.
Why wonder where the plant comes from?
Did you know that the flower is native to the tropical rainforests of America, Central and South America? It turns out, natural conditions its habitat - the area where profusely it rains. But this is not enough for the plant, it lives along the rivers in order to get even more moisture. In addition, the homeland of this evergreen handsome man is always warm, and the dense foliage of trees and bushes reliably protects him from drafts and direct rays of the sun. And don't forget that in these wild forests, the soil is well-drained by fallen leaves. Yes! One more point, spathiphyllum is used to living in space, not limiting itself in anything.
Why did we remember all this? Yes, because natural conditions are a comfort zone that must be created for a plant. And then you can observe how good it is, how it grows and multiplies, and blooms profusely.
Let me remind you that the preferred conditions are:
- Humidity;
- Good illumination;
- Not on the windowsill, so that the rays of the sun do not reach;
- Not in a draft;
- In light soil with drainage;
- The pot should be slightly larger than the developed root system.
But what if all the conditions are met, but there is no result? Let's talk which ones are tricks in the care of a tropical wonder.
How to care for spathiphyllum
Periodically, the flower rests. And during this period of time it is absolutely hopeless to wait and "demand" from him flowering. But what about the rest of the time?
If the regular watering schedule, special fertilization, annual transplants and compliance with all the requirements from the list does not help, it remains a little trick. Namely:
- Place the plant pot in a cool, semi-dark place.
- Reduce watering by 2-3 times.
- Transplant, but not in a spacious, but in a tighter pot.
By doing this, we will try to take him out of an even state, which is also called "fattening". Such methods are aggressive, but, as a temporary phenomenon that is not recommended to be carried out more often than once a year, they work well for the result.
Another aggressive but efficient way in the video:
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"Women's happiness" is a representative of the aroid family. A bright plant with dark green leaves and veil flowers. Undoubtedly, the plant looks spectacular and exotic without flowers, but it is grown for the sake of elegant flowers that adorn the plant with white butterflies from March to September, sometimes even longer. What to do if spathiphyllum does not bloom and how to stimulate flowering?
There are no special riddles here, the only one main reason- care errors. They are not always easy to identify, because few flower growers, especially beginners, deliberately make mistakes. Usually it seems to everyone that they are doing everything right, but the plant refuses to bloom.
Overview of the conditions required for growth and flowering
Yellowed leaf tips. Too dry for a plant - dry air.
The florist's task is to satisfy the needs of the plant; all crops have different needs. Key points care for spathiphyllum:
- The plant is not picky about lighting and the amount of sun- you can not pay for it special attention... Shade and partial shade tolerates perfectly, although you should not overdo it. Also, do not put it under the scorching rays of the sun - the reaction of the plant will be negative.
- The temperature is similar - spathiphyllum grows well at normal room temperature... Lowering the temperature below 18 degrees is undesirable.
- But humidity is important. In summer, the plant must be sprayed at least twice a day. Can be placed in a container with damp pebbles.
- Watering is needed plentiful, but neat. Be sure to spill an earthen lump, drain the water from the pallet. The water temperature should be comfortable (it is about 18-22 C).
- The soil should be light and nutritious, with a slightly acidic reaction. Ordinary soil for indoor plants is suitable, but make sure that you do not get a fake, consisting of one peat - such soil will dry out very quickly.
- Drafts are not allowed! The plant does not like them.
- Top dressing is important for flowering. The plant is fed once every two weeks, throughout the warm season, from early spring to autumn, in winter, feeding is limited to one per month. The plant perfectly perceives organic matter. But purchased complex fertilizers for flowering plants are also suitable.
If all these rules are followed, the plant should delight with flowers. But this is not always the case. Care mistakes are hard to spot.
What's wrong?
Decay of the roots of spathiphyllum. Too dense soil, too cold room and at the same time abundant watering.
There are obvious signs when it is clear that something needs to be changed in the procedure for caring for the plant:
- The tips of the leaves dry up, turn brown, the plant itself seems to be healthy - dry air, undisciplined watering, drafts.
- The ends of the leaves curl - hypothermia, the plant was standing in a draft.
- Yellow edges of leaves - watering with hard water.
- Dropped, withered leaves - dry soil.
- White-yellow, dry spots on the leaves - sunburn.
- Yellowed, lethargic, pale leaves - excess sunlight.
- Yellow but soft leaves- the plant is flooded.
No flowers - what could be the problem?
The most common reasons for missing flowers are:
- The soil lacks nutrients and the plant simply "does not pull" flowering (too small pot, too poor soil, lack of fertilizing).
- The plant has root problems(diseases, acidification, overfeeding, soil salinization) and it is not able to assimilate nutrients from the soil.
- Too much big pot , this culture needs some crampedness. Until the plant masters the pot, and "thinks" that it is time to give seeds that will fill itself with more free area, it is not located to blossom.
- It's too dark. Many, remembering that the plant cannot be placed on the south window, allocate a plot that is completely unsuitable for flowering. For the plant to bloom, there must still be light. Perfect option- east window.
- Improper watering. A systemic reason, often leading to a lack of flowers: tap water brines the soil, the plant does not receive nutrition and, as a result, does not bloom. Water must be defended, it must be at room temperature. Watering should be done if the earthen lump is dry (the first few cm), but abundantly, so that moisture completely sheds it. Watering a little, just to moisten the top layer, is categorically not suitable and may even be the cause of soil acidification or systematic water starvation in the plant.
Removing wilted flowers prolongs and stimulates flowering.
Blooming spathiphyllum in the photo:
Who is unfamiliar with the delicate cobs of flowers, carefully guarded by a light sail blanket, protruding from the lush emerald foliage of spathiphyllum, an evergreen perennial cultivated for a long time in indoor floriculture. This typical representative of the Aroid family has acquired another unambiguous name - female happiness.
Main characteristics
Numbering up to 40 species, spathiphyllum is widespread in the habitat habitual for aroids - the shady rain forests of Central and South America, New Guinea, Philippine and Solomon Islands. Excellent endurance and love for high humidity distinguishes all types of this plant - both cultivated and wild. Spathiphyllum was "domesticated" by English breeders back in the 19th century, and today there are many varieties of culture - from baby dwarfs to giants of impressive size with dark green or textured variegated leaves.
The absence of a stem in a flower adds decorative effect, since leaves located close to each other emerge from the rhizome in a bunch and grow back, effectively bending back and forming a luxurious bush. Solid lanceolate leaf with textured relief veins.
Inflorescence is an ear on a long peduncle, wrapped in a white blanket that turns green over time. Flowering begins in spring and lasts for several weeks. Good care for spathiphyllum - a guarantee of re-flowering in autumn or winter.
How to care for a plant
The unpretentiousness of this culture has become a proverb, but in order to achieve generous flowering it is worth taking care of it. In addition, you do not have to strain too much, since caring for spathiphyllum at home is completely unobtrusive.
Lighting and room temperature
Spathiphyllum is shade-tolerant, but it develops better in illuminated places, feeling great on northern windowsills or near east and west windows under diffused light. It develops well and at a sufficient distance from light sources, which is very valuable for furnishing the interior of offices and offices.
Important! The plant compensates for the lack of light by a slight slowdown in growth, rare flowering and more intense coloration of the foliage, which, however, does not affect the overall decorative effect.
Spathiphyllum does not put forward special requirements for air temperature and grows productively at 18-25 ° C at any time of the year. It is important not to lower the temperature, since a decrease to 12-14 ° C will complicate the development of the plant, and 10 ° C is already a serious threat that can provoke root rot and death.
Spathiphyllum does not tolerate drafts, therefore, when choosing a place for a flower, this circumstance is taken into account.
We select the soil for planting
The substrate should be lightweight and breathable. Habits acquired by wild-growing representatives, whose habitat is the lower tier of rain forests with loose, fertile, composted soil, have an effect. The best soil for spathiphyllum - a mixture consisting of peat, garden soil, vermiculite, crushed charcoal and chips in a ratio of 3 * 2 * 2 * 1.
To avoid root rotting, drainage is used - expanded clay or fine gravel.
Transfer
Young, fast-growing spathiphyllums are transplanted in the spring every year. Adult plants that have reached 4-5 years of age are not touched until the roots appear from the drainage holes of the container. A narrow and shallow pot is convenient for Spathiphyllum, since in large containers the soil sours and inhibits growth, and flowering will not occur until the roots grow over the entire volume of the container.
Important! With each next transplant, the size of the new container is increased slightly - by 1-1.5 cm.
Immediately before transplanting, spathiphyllum is well watered. The ability of the plant to grow quickly leads to the crushing of the leaves and, so that the flower pleases with large textured foliage and high peduncles, lateral processes are separated from the spathiphyllum when transplanted, which draws off food. A layer of expanded clay (2.5-3 cm) is placed on the bottom of the container, then the plant is placed together with an earthen lump and the soil is poured, carefully compacting it, after which it is generously watered with water with the addition of aloe juice. For the next 3-5 days, the plant should not be moistened, but it should be sprayed twice a day.
Watering
With its love for humidity, spathiphyllum does not welcome stagnant water in the sump. Watering during the active period should be generous, but reasonable: as the surface layer of the soil dries up, the culture is abundantly moistened. In a calm period (from November to January), watering is reduced, still preventing the earthen from drying out completely. Pay attention to high level dry air in city apartments in winter, you should constantly monitor the water regime. It is useful for the winter to place the container with the plant in a tray with damp pebbles.
The air humidity in the room should be high, and with the onset of the spring-summer season, frequent spraying is carried out, which the sapathiphyllum gratefully accepts, significantly adding decorativeness.
Reproduction
The preferred breeding method for spathiphyllum is by dividing the bush. Separating the lateral rosette processes at spring transplant, the florist gets ready planting material... Viable shoots should have at least 3-4 leaves growing from the pith and roots.
Advice! In the absence of roots, the rosettes are placed in water and wait for their regrowth. Planting such a deal is a win-win option, it will definitely take root.
Delenki are planted immediately in separate containers filled with a special soil for aroids or a prepared substrate, the composition of which is indicated above, and looked after as if they were independent plants.
Important! When planting a cut, the basal neck is not buried, otherwise the flowering of spathiphyllum may not occur.
A possible option is propagation by cuttings, which are an accumulation of young leaves with primordial roots at the base of the mother plant. It is not recommended to prune spathiphyllum when separating rosette cuttings. Young rosettes easily move away from the mother plant. In summer and spring, they root well in containers with damp perlite or sand. The cover film will speed up rooting. When the roots appear, the seedlings are placed in separate small containers with a mixture of sand, peat, humus and garden soil (1 * 1 * 1 * 3).
Seed propagation by flower growers is not practiced, since even ripe seeds have a low germination capacity and do not always carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. Sowing seeds can be immediately after collection in a wet mixture of sand and peat. Cover the seedling box with foil or glass and ventilate periodically to avoid mold.
Fertilizers and frequency of application
During the period of activity from March to October, spathiphyllum requires feeding with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer(1.5 g / 1 l) once every 15-20 days. In the spring, it is more effective to alternate mineral nutrition with organic matter, for example, "Kemiru-universal" with humus or a 5% solution of mullein infusion. By winter, feeding is stopped, but if the plant continues to grow or bloom rapidly, then it is necessary to fertilize it once a month. Such "behavior" is promoted by high-quality care, proper hydration and feeding.
Diseases and problems
Despite the fact that the plant's endurance is very high, sometimes aphids attack the spathiphyllum, and errors in the irrigation regime provoke the appearance spider mite... You can fight them with home remedies, weekly wiping the leaves with a solution of soap with nicotine sulfate. The substrate in the container is pre-covered protective film... A day after treatment, the preparation is washed off the leaves. Repeat this operation as needed.
Important! The simplest hygiene procedures - wiping the leaves from dust and periodic examinations will help to avoid the attack of pests or prevent them in time.
Illness is usually the result of illiterate care. For example, the leaves turn yellow or wither if errors are allowed in the regularity of watering and the soil dries up. If this has already happened, then the plant should be brought back to normal, gradually soaking the soil and increasing the volume of water. The yellowing of the foliage also causes a disadvantage nutrients, compliance with the feeding regime will help to eliminate it.
The situation becomes more dangerous in which the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn black. As a rule, this is a sign of the dying off of the root system, which often occurs when waterlogged, keeping the flower in an insufficiently warm room or overfeeding.
Advice! When the leaves turn black, it is necessary to remove the plant from the container, examine the roots and remove the problematic ones, and then transplant it into a new substrate, having previously held it in the Epin or Zircon solution.
The tips of the leaves of spathiphyllum dry out with too dry or cold indoor air and a lack of nutrition. It is not difficult to fix this problem, you just have to balance the feeding, as well as change the temperature and humidity in the room.
Spathiphyllum does not bloom if the rules of planting and care are violated. Excessive deepening of the outlet when planting a plant, too spacious a container or the use of liquid wax when caring for leaves - all this provokes a fair delay in flowering.
Note that it is not difficult to fix the listed troubles. Spathiphyllum is extremely responsive to quality care, and as soon as its life processes are restored, the decorative effect of this elegant handsome man also increases.
Spathiphyllum, commonly called "women's happiness" or "white sail", is considered quite common houseplant and is found in almost every home. According to legend, blooming spathiphyllum helps the owner find love or acquire a long-awaited baby. But sometimes the plant is in no hurry to throw out the buds, forcing you to think about what to do if the spathiphyllum does not bloom.
Plant characteristics
Spathiphyllum is an evergreen flower belonging to the Aroid family. In nature, they are found as dwarf varieties of this plant, and real giants, however, at home, spathiphyllum usually grows no higher than 30 cm.
The following flower varieties are often used as a room culture:
"White sail" is widely used in room culture and is highly prized for its original dark green oval leaves, slightly pointed at the ends and growing directly from the ground. The flowers are of particular charm - typical Aroid cobs, framed by luxurious bedspreads. Spathiphyllum bloom begins in mid-spring and can last until September. With the onset of winter, the plant stops biological processes, entering a dormant period.
Spathiphyllum is thermophilic, prefers temperatures in the range of 22-26 ° C. A slight cooling (15-18 ° C) is also not detrimental for him, however, at such a temperature, waterlogging should not be allowed so that the roots of the plant do not rot ... You should also consider that the flower does not like drafts very much, so avoid taking it to the balcony or loggia for airing.
As a rule, with proper care, the plant blooms profusely and rarely gets sick, giving the owner a minimum of trouble.
Reasons for delayed flowering
Often, you can hear complaints from the hostesses of the spathiphyllum that the spathiphyllum looks unhealthy, its leaves turn yellow or black, and, of course, the flower "female happiness" does not bloom. It is not difficult to guess what to do in this case: the conditions of keeping the plant should be corrected.
Spathiphyllum pests
In some cases, the cause lack of flowering become attacks of harmful insects. In order for spathiphyllum to release buds, it must be treated with appropriate drugs. You can buy insecticidal and fungicidal products at any specialty store.
Most often, the plant is attacked:
- mealybug;
- sooty mushroom;
- spider mite;
- shield aphid.
It is worth noting that spathiphyllum is immune to most dangerous diseases, so if the plant withers and turns yellow, but pests are not visible on it, the problem lies in the violation of the conditions of detention.
Stimulation of bud formation
There are several ways to make spathiphyllum bloom at home, but keep in mind that they are all applicable only for cases, when the plant is completely healthy and properly cared for.
