Floors on the ground are installed in individual residential buildings, bathhouses and utility rooms for all types of foundations, with the exception of columnar ones. You can make a dry and warm floor on any soil. This is a reliable, practical and durable design.

Modern owners of private houses prefer to heat rooms through the floor. The best option for such heating is floors mounted directly on the ground. If we look at them in cross-section, then this is a layer cake consisting of several layers. The bottom layer is soil, and the top layer is finishing coat. The layers are arranged in a certain sequence, each with its own purpose, thickness and function.

The main disadvantage of floors on the ground is that they are large financial expenses and the time required for their production. There are also requirements for the soil: it should not be too loose, standing groundwater no closer than 5–6 m.

The layered structure of a heated floor on the ground must provide sound and heat insulation, prevent the penetration of groundwater, not accumulate water vapor in the floor layers and create comfortable conditions residing.

Concrete floors

Concrete floors on the ground do not provide a basement or space under the floor for ventilation.

Important! When installing concrete floors on soil with close groundwater, it should be taken into account that their level may change over a short period of time. This must be taken into account when laying layers.

A classic floor on any soil consists of 10 layers:

Layers that protect against groundwater and distribute the load

1. Compacted clay pillow. It is necessary to stop the rise of groundwater. If, after removing a layer of soil, you reach clay, then it must be properly prepared. The clay layer cuts off the upward penetration of groundwater.
2. Sand pillow. Its purpose is also to prevent the ingress of groundwater and equalize the load on the soil. Sand weakens the capillary rise of water and evenly distributes the pressure of the underlying floor layers onto the ground. Any sand will do.
3. Large crushed stone. This is a kind of drainage, its purpose is to make the base strong and distribute the load. It does not allow water to flow upward due to capillary properties. Crushed stone is used in fractions of 40–60 mm.

The first three layers should be arranged in exactly this order, each with a thickness of 10 cm in a compacted state. The layers must be compacted.

Advice. Manually It is difficult to compact a thick layer of sand or clay, therefore, when filling such a layer, you need to successively add and compact thinner layers (10–15 cm).

1. Waterproofing layer (roofing felt or polyethylene film). It is placed directly on the crushed stone, and it serves both to protect the crushed stone from the concrete solution flowing into it from above, and as an obstacle to the penetration of water vapor into the concrete layer from below. The film is laid over a whole sleeve (without cutting) and placed on the walls, gluing the overlaps with tape.
2. Rough screed 80 mm and thicker. For it you should take washed sand and small crushed stone (10–20 mm). Steel fiber is added to the solution or reinforcement is used. In order for the screed to be ready for the next stages of work, it must be kept for a certain time.
3. Waterproofing layer (coating waterproofing, roll or film). If the first layers are laid correctly and efficiently, for waterproofing you can use roofing felt without powder in 1-2 layers or a film with a thickness of at least 120 microns. The waterproofing layer must be monolithic. If roofing felt is used, the overlaps are coated with bitumen mastic, and the overlaps of polyethylene film are taped.
4. Insulation. The floor can be insulated with expanded clay, extruded polystyrene foam, or polystyrene foam. The thickness of polystyrene boards and foam sheets depends on climatic conditions, but not less than 5 cm. Expanded clay is covered with a layer of 15 cm.
5. Waterproofing. It is recommended to lay waterproofing over expanded clay or other insulation. This will protect the insulation from moisture from the upper layers and improve it thermal insulation properties. At this stage, a thick polyethylene film is used, which is laid in a continuous layer.
6. The screed is clean. It can accommodate underfloor heating heaters (water heating circuits, cable mats or heating cable). A layer of finishing screed is poured 50 mm or more. It is reinforced using composite or steel reinforcement, and fiber is added to the solution.
7. Finish coating. If all layers are completed in the specified order, any coating can be laid.

Pros and cons of concrete floors on the ground

Advantages

• Reliably protect the room from the cold. No matter what the weather is like outside, the soil will always be warm.
• Any insulation and waterproofing materials are applicable, as well as any coatings for finishing the floor.
• The main load is distributed over the ground, there is no need to make additional calculations. If a large load is expected, you simply need to increase the thickness of the three lower layers.
• It is possible to organize heating of the house through the floor, which will heat up quickly and distribute heat evenly, preventing drafts.
• Protect the house from mold and proliferation of microorganisms.

Flaws

• It is necessary to take into account the location of the groundwater level.
• Can significantly reduce the height of the room under certain conditions design features Houses.
• The technology is not applicable for pile and columnar foundations.
• If problems arise in the system, its repair and dismantling is a very time-consuming and financial undertaking.
• Installation of floors is a lengthy and complex procedure in terms of volume of work, as well as financially expensive; it is best to perform such work during the construction of a house.

How to make a concrete floor on the ground yourself

It is best to remove the soil and fill the first three layers immediately after laying the foundation of the house. First, calculations are made to what depth the soil needs to be removed. Behind zero mark take the level of the finished floor. Add up the dimensions according to the thickness of each layer, for example:

• laminate + backing -1.5 cm;
• screed + waterproofing - 6 cm;
• thermal insulation + waterproofing - 6–11 cm;
• concrete screed 8–10 cm;
• crushed stone, sand, clay - 15+15+10 cm;

The total value is 61.5 cm. If the layers are thicker, the soil will have to be removed at greater depth. You need to add 5 cm to the resulting depth.

A hole is dug across the entire area of ​​the building to the calculated depth and the soil is removed. For the convenience of subsequent work, the levels of the floor layers are marked on the foundation walls along the entire perimeter. This will make it easier to align them. The soil does not necessarily contain clay; for clarity, we present the procedure for working on soil that does not have a layer of clay.

Floors on the ground: preparation and pouring

Clay.

Pour any clay with a layer thickness of at least 10 cm. It is leveled and generously watered with weak liquid glass (a solution of 1 part glass in 4 parts water). The wet layer is compacted with a piece of timber 200x200mmx1.5 m. large area You can use a vibratory rammer or vibratory compaction machine by renting it. If, as a result of compaction, the layer turns out to be thinner, clay is added and compacted again.

Advice: a durable tamper can be made from a cut channel (20x30 cm) by welding to it a piece of metal pipe into which sand is poured for weighting.

Clay is one of the layers of a concrete floor

The leveled, compacted clay layer is poured with cement milk (2 kg of cement is mixed in 10 liters of water) so that there are no puddles, and left for a day so that the process of chemical interaction of cement with liquid glass is completed completely. Walking on it at this time is not recommended.

Sand

Trying not to walk on the prepared clay layer, pour 15 cm of sand. You can walk on it. It is leveled and also compacted to the corresponding mark on the wall of the foundation of the house.

Crushed stone

It is poured onto sand and also carefully compacted with a tamper. The crushed stone in the corners is especially carefully leveled, compacting it tightly. The result should be a flat horizontal surface.

Polyethylene film

Uncut sleeves are laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm, placed on the walls by 3–5 cm. The overlaps are carefully taped. It is recommended to move around in shoes with soft soles, trying not to damage the film with sharp edges of pieces of crushed stone. Although experts say that this is just a technological technique, the film also performs its waterproofing functions.

Rough screed

For it, you can order ready-made “lean” concrete or make your own solution by mixing M500 cement with crushed stone and sand in a volumetric ratio of 1:4:3. Metal fiber is also added to the mixture in an amount of 1–1.5 kg per 1 m 3 of solution. The solution can be poured, leveling it along the beacons or along the marks on the foundation walls. It should be taken into account that a flat horizontal surface of the rough screed will simplify further stages of floor installation.

After two days, the concrete is reinforced with a mixture (10:1) of water with liquid glass and dry cement. They do it this way: using a roller or spray bottle, moisten the entire surface of the screed with the solution, then sprinkle thin layer dry cement and rub it with a trowel into the concrete. This technique will increase the strength of concrete by an order of magnitude and increase its resistance to water. The screed requires at least 1.5 months to fully mature, but subsequent work can be carried out after 1–2 weeks.

Waterproofing

The prepared rough screed is covered with liquid bitumen (primer), especially carefully coating the corners and covering 5 cm of the walls. On such a base treated with bitumen, strips of roofing material are glued with an overlap of 10 cm and an overlap of 5 cm on the walls. In places where they overlap, the strips are heated with a hairdryer or coated with bitumen mastic.

The stripes of the second layer are placed with a shift of half a strip in the same way. Roofing felt is glued especially carefully in the corners of the room. When performing this type of work, it is recommended to walk on the floor in shoes with soft soles.

Thermal insulation

The purpose of laying this layer is clear. The best material in this case there will be extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) boards. A 5 cm thick sheet of this heat insulator in its effectiveness replaces expanded clay, poured in a layer of 70 cm. The material practically does not absorb water and has high compressive strength.

In order for EPS sheets to serve more efficiently, it is recommended to lay them in 2 layers, each of them 3 cm thick, shifting the joints by 1/3 or ½ of the sheets. This will completely eliminate cold bridges and improve the thermal insulation properties of the insulation. The joints of EPS boards in each layer should be taped with special tape.

If expanded clay or mineral wool is used as insulation, an additional layer of waterproofing material, for example, polyethylene film, will be required to protect the insulation from the moisture of the finishing screed.

Finish screed

Along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape of 1.5–2.0 cm is attached to the walls to cover the entire height of the screed. The end of the damper tape is fixed to the insulation boards. The screed is reinforced with a 3mm masonry mesh with a cell size of 100x100. If you plan to install a warm electric floor, reflective waterproofing material is placed on the EPS sheets. When installing water heating circuits, the thickness of the screed will be required; the water heating pipes must be thicker than the screed.

The reinforcing mesh is positioned so that it is located in the screed and does not protrude onto its surface. To do this, use stands, pieces of wooden blocks, metal profiles or, for example, traffic jams from plastic bottles. The combination of reinforcement and leveling beacons is a rather complicated task, so it is recommended to pour the screed along the mark on the walls, and then pour a thin layer of self-leveling self-leveling floor over it.

For screeding, use ready-made dry mixtures or prepare a solution from washed river sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1. The work is done quickly. The screed will harden in 4–5 days, and its final readiness will be in a month. The use of ready-made mixtures with special additives will speed up the maturation process of the screed. Check its readiness with a paper napkin, placing it on the floor and covering it with a sheet of polyethylene. If the napkin remains dry after 24 hours, the screed is ready for application of the self-leveling mixture and installation of finishing coatings.

Wooden floor on the ground on joists

In private homes, wooden floors are most often made. There are several reasons for this:

• V frame houses wooden floor is a continuation of the overall structure of the building;
• wood is a natural material that is safe for the health and life of the residents of the house. Some types of wood have a beneficial effect on health;
• wood is easy to process and lay even for those new to construction work;
• treating wood with antiseptics significantly increases its service life;
• floors are easy to repair and open if necessary.

Installing a wooden floor on the ground in a private house on the ground floor is quite feasible with your own hands. The floor can be insulated, communications and a basement can be hidden under it. It is laid on logs, which can be mounted when tying a strip foundation.

Logs cut into two halves, bars with an aspect ratio of 1:1.5, and double thick boards of wood are used as lags. coniferous species. If the logs were not installed when tying the foundation, they can be placed on prepared soil or on brick columns on a concrete base.

The logs are placed at a distance determined by the thickness of the floorboard. So, if the board is 50 mm, the logs are installed every 100 cm, if the board is 35 mm, the logs are installed every 60 cm. The first and last logs are installed at a distance of 20 cm from the wall, the rest are placed between them. If the distance between the lags is slightly greater than required, then the number of lags is increased, but the outer ones are not moved. If the room is rectangular, the logs are laid lengthwise long wall. For a square room there is not much difference.

Installation of logs on the ground (cold floor without underground)

The work is performed in the following order:

1. They calculate to what depth the soil should be removed based on the thickness of the logs, layers of sand, crushed stone, clay or expanded clay.
2. They remove the completely fertile layer of soil and dig deeper, based on the calculated depth. The remaining soil is well leveled and compacted over the entire area of ​​the future floor. It should be compacted using a tamper. On large areas You can use a vibrating machine to compact the soil.
3. Pour any sand in a layer of 15 cm or more and the same layer of crushed stone (or construction waste) and compact it. If the house is on clay soil, pour and compact a layer of clay, and then successively sand and crushed stone on it. If the soil is sandy, then you can add a layer of calcined sand or slag that has been aired for at least a year. You can add a layer of expanded clay. The thickness of all layers of filling should be approximately three times the height of the logs. All layers are carefully leveled and compacted.
4. Antiseptic-treated logs are installed on the leveled top layer (sand, slag or expanded clay), they are sunk into the bedding and compacted well around them. The upper level of the joists should be positioned so that the floor boards are in the desired position. The logs are attached to the foundation or lower crown.
5. Floor boards are installed along the joists.

Logs on brick posts (warm floor with underground)

Typically, logs are installed on posts stacked in 2 bricks (25x25 cm).

• The fertile soil is removed, the remaining soil is leveled and compacted.
• Mark the locations of the columns for the logs (in the event that the logs are not installed when tying the foundation). The height of the columns depends on which part of the wall the logs will rest on. This can be a beam of the first row or a grillage (a roofing felt-covered beam for the foundation).
• Pull the cords so that they are located above the center of all planned posts, and from the cords to equal distance Pegs are driven into the ground the width of the brick columns (25 cm in each direction).

Bases for posts

In the marked places, holes are dug 40x40 cm in size and 15–25 cm deep on rocky or sandy soil and up to 45 cm on clay and loose soil. A 10 cm layer of sand and a 10 cm layer of coarse crushed stone are poured into deep holes in succession and compacted.

Advice: If the groundwater level is close, the holes can be filled with a 20–25 cm layer of clay and compacted (this is a clay castle).

• The bottom of the pits is covered with plastic film or roofing felt.
• Concrete base it is poured under the brick columns so that it protrudes 5 cm above the level of the compacted soil. To do this, install formwork from boards (about 5 cm high above the ground) and reinforcement into the holes. As reinforcement, you can use wire or mesh with 10x10 cm cells.
• Concrete is poured (cement: sand: crushed stone (fr. 5–10 mm) = 1:3:2–3 and water to a thick consistency) and left for several days to mature.

Making posts

• Ruberoid is laid on the concrete base in 1-2 layers so that it protrudes beyond the edges by 1-2 cm.
• Brick columns of 2 bricks are laid strictly vertically (plumb) on the roofing material so that the last layer of bricks is perpendicular to the direction of the log. To obtain a solution, mix M100 cement and sand in a volume ratio of 1:3 and add water by eye.
• Ruberoid is placed on the post and a lining made of antiseptic-treated plywood or OSB boards square shape so that it protrudes 2 cm beyond their edges.

Installation and alignment of joists

Logs are installed on these pads. Leveling joists is a long and painstaking job. To do this, use linings or cut off part of the support. As a result, all logs should be at the same level.

Having been leveled, they are attached to the posts with corners, and to the elements of the walls or foundation - with special fastening systems used for the construction frame houses. Holes are pre-drilled in the concrete and dowels are inserted.

Floor installation

The last stage of the process is installing the floor.

• For a floor with insulation, 30x50 or 50x50 mm bars are attached to the bottom of the joists, on which a subfloor made of thin unedged boards 20 mm thick is laid.
• A vapor barrier (vapor barrier membrane) is laid on the subfloor.
• Soft insulation (mineral wool) is placed on the membrane so that its sheets fit tightly between the joists and are tightly adjacent to one another, not reaching about 2 cm from the top of the joists.
• Floor boards are laid along the joists.

DIY ground floors

Externally similar to a slab foundation, the ground floor structure is less massive and cheaper to manufacture. Instead of two reinforcing mesh, one wire mesh is used; stiffeners are needed only under heavy partitions. Ground flooring is not load-bearing structure, is created exclusively for the installation of floor coverings.

Layer-by-layer scheme of the floor on the ground.

The classic scheme of a concrete floor on the ground contains a correct and complete pie of several layers with insulation:

• sand;
• geotextiles;
• layer of crushed stone 0.4 m;
• footing;
• waterproofing;
• insulation;
• a concrete screed with a wire mesh in its lower third, separated from the base, grillage or foundation by a damper tape around the perimeter.

Depending on the layout of the building, ground conditions and compliance with technology, the composition of the floor on the ground may change. For example, sand and geotextiles are not needed on coarse sandy soil.

The footing can be replaced with a leveling layer of sand on top of crushed stone. To reduce the construction budget, the foundation is often not poured under the partitions, so stiffening ribs reinforced with reinforcement frames appear in the floors along the ground. In any case, before starting the production of a floating screed, it is necessary to prepare the existing foundation and plan it at a single horizontal level.

Preparing the base

Despite the fact that concrete is the strongest structural material, soil heaving and foundation subsidence are dangerous for screeds. Therefore, the arable layer in the building spot should be completely removed: black soil or gray soil is saturated with organic matter, which will rot, after which the entire pie will sag, and unevenly over separate areas, cracks will open in the screed or the concrete floor will collapse along the ground.

For communications, it is necessary to dig trenches with a slope, bring them outside the foundation and near the walls inside the house.

Wiring of engineering systems.

Important! The correct ground floor is made in the form of a floating screed, separated from the elements of foundations and plinths by a damper layer. It is forbidden to rest the slab on protruding parts of these structures.

Separating layer

To avoid mutual mixing of the layers of the floor pie on the ground with the soil of the base, the pit is lined with non-woven material (geotextile or dornite). The edges of the separating layer web are launched onto the side surface and pressed against the brick, wall blocks. Additional function geotextile is to prevent weed roots from growing through a concrete floor on the ground during operation.

Advice! Geotextiles with a density of 100 g/m2 or more can be laid under a floating screed, since the structure is considered not responsible, unlike slab foundations, which will require needle-punched material with a density of 200 g/m 2 or more.

Substrate

The concrete floor layer on the ground must rest on a hard layer to avoid soil subsidence. Therefore, depending on the ground conditions, non-metallic materials are used:

Natural soil (coarse sand or gravelly soil) is less often used. If the developer still has expanded clay after dismantling the building or this material is cheaper in the region than crushed stone, this material is also suitable as an underlying layer.

Advice! A prerequisite is high-quality compaction of every 15 cm of the underlying layer with a vibrating plate or manual tamper. It is not recommended to spill sand with water; the material should be moistened with a watering can before backfilling and compaction.

Footing

The classic floor pie on concrete soil includes a concrete screed made from a thin B7.5 mixture. It is necessary to solve several problems:

However, to reduce the construction budget, the concrete base is replaced with other technologies:

Important! The footing is not reinforced, but is necessarily separated from the elements of the foundation or plinth along the perimeter by a damping layer (pieces of polystyrene foam on an edge or a special tape).

Waterproofing and insulation

The next step is to insulate the cake from moisture, prevent heat loss in the floors and retain geothermal heat under the building. For this, waterproofing and insulation are used. Their relative position inside the structure pie is as follows:

The main mistake developers make is laying a vapor barrier over expanded polystyrene:

• the air temperature in the room is always higher than in the ground under the screed (true for heated rooms);
• therefore when laying flooring, which does not have vapor barrier properties (floorboards, parquet, cork), the direction of steam will always be from top to bottom;
• the vapor barrier membrane will accumulate moisture on the surface, inside the cake, at the insulation/concrete interface;
• the screed will collapse and the wire mesh inside will corrode.

Apart from an unreasonable increase in the construction budget, this scheme does not provide any advantages. The accumulation of harmful gas - radon under the floors on the ground is impossible, since there is no underground in this design.

The following materials can be used as waterproofing:

• built-up rolls - Technonikol, Gidrostekloizol, Bikrost or roofing felt;
• film - made of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene;
• membranes – have high density and strength, can be laid without making a concrete base.

• Admix mixture - an additive is added to concrete during mixing, the structural material becomes moisture-proof;
• Penetron - the floor on the ground is processed AFTER concreting, the effect is similar to the previous one.

For these waterproofing materials no need for a footing either.

Of all existing insulation materials the best option for the floor on the ground, high-density extruded polystyrene foam of the XPS or EPS grades (for example, Penoplex) is used. The thickness of the layer depends on the climate of the operating region, ranging from 5 to 20 cm. The sheets are laid with mixing joints in adjacent rows, large gaps are filled with polyurethane foam with similar properties.

Damper layer

Floors on the ground are prohibited from being rigidly connected to the elements of the plinth or foundation, so along the perimeter it is necessary to install polystyrene foam strips on the edge, pressing them against the vertical enclosing structures. However, more often a special damping tape made of latex, rubber or foamed polymers with an adhesive layer is glued to the walls.

Important! The height of the cutting layer should be slightly higher than the thickness of the floating screed. After the concrete has hardened, the material is cut off with a knife, and the junction points are decorated with plinths after laying the floor covering.

Floating screed

The main nuances of concreting a floor on the ground are:

• It is recommended to fill in one step;
• areas larger than 50 m2 (relevant for studio rooms, sheds and garages) should be separated by a special corner to create expansion joints;
• internal load-bearing walls and heavy partitions must be built on a separate foundation;
• partitions made of gypsum plasterboard/gypsum plasterboard must be partially erected so that when the screed dries, moisture is not absorbed into the plasterboard or gypsum fiber sheet, destroying these materials;
• It is preferable to pour along plaster beacons or profiles for gypsum plasterboard systems installed in a single horizontal level on quick-drying putty solutions;
• screed thickness 5 – 20 cm, depending on operational loads and the planned floor covering, as well as the need to install underfloor heating pipes.

Partial construction of plasterboard partitions is carried out using the following technology:

• installation of racks and horizontal jumpers;
• covering them at the joints of the floor on the ground with strips of plasterboard 10–20 cm high along the entire length.

For flooring on the ground, you can use ready-mixed concrete B12.5 and higher; the filler is gravel, dolomite or granite crushed stone. The screed is reinforced at the lower level with wire mesh.

Important! If the technology is broken, heavy partitions are planned to be supported on a screed; in the places where they pass, stiffening ribs are needed, which are created by analogy with the USHP slab (insulated Swedish floating foundation slab).

Floor reinforcement on the ground

The industry produces welded wire mesh BP in accordance with GOST 8478 from 5 mm wire with a square cell of 10 - 20 cm. Do-it-yourself knitting on site is more expensive due to high flow knitting wire and increased labor intensity. The grids are laid using the following technology:

Unlike reinforcing mesh, wire cards have much less rigidity; walking on them when laying the mixture is strictly prohibited. Therefore, the following methods are used:

• ladders - halves of bricks are placed in the mesh cells, on which boards rest, which are moved along with spacers as the structure is ready;
• “paths” - concrete is piled from the entrance of the room to the far corner, after which you can walk along these paths without shifting the grid.

IN small rooms Typically, grid maps of appropriate size are used. If the room has a complex configuration, additional pieces need to be cut. In this case and when reinforcing large areas, the overlap of cards/rolls is at least one cell.

Stiffening ribs under the partitions

To create stiffening ribs under the partitions, intermittent laying of extruded polystyrene foam or its top layer is used. Reinforcing frames made of square clamps (smooth reinforcement 4–6 mm) and longitudinal rods (“corrugated” 8–12 mm) are placed into the resulting voids.

Heated floor contours

To reduce energy consumption in the heating boiler and increase living comfort, heated floors are used. Their contours can be embedded in the screed by laying the pipes directly on the reinforcing mesh.

To connect to the collectors, the underfloor heating pipes are routed outside near the wall. At this point they must be covered with damper tape. A similar expansion joint technology is required for all communications passing through the screed (heating risers, hot water supply/hot water supply).

Thus, the composition of the floor on the ground can be modified depending on the construction budget and specific operational and soil conditions.

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ElenaRudenkaya (Builderclub expert)

Good afternoon, fellow countrywoman.

I'll start by answering the questions in order:

1. You can make floors on the ground. There can be no freezing inside the house. Of course, you do not indicate the parameters of the foundation and do not attach plans, but I can say that there will definitely not be freezing there. The floors are located inside the building. Even in the basement under the house there will be above-zero temperatures. But of course, the floors and basement will need to be insulated according to all the rules so that there is no heat loss. It is also necessary to waterproof the floor on the ground. For God's sake, make the floor level as you need, there are no contraindications.

2. Ideally, all these bedding should be made with sand, since it practically does not shrink if compacted. If the soil has already been compressed and can be broken off with a crowbar, then you just need to tamp it down with a hand tamper, without digging it up again. If this soil is clay, then it would be good to drive large crushed stone into the clay; just drive it in and you will get an adobe base for the floor. This is a very dense base and good preparation under the screed. Any layers of soil or bedding are usually compacted every 10 cm. Since you have already poured it, now simply compact it from above. And you don’t indicate how thick the uncompacted layer is. Can you clarify this point? You can pour a large thickness of soil, but it’s better to add sand or crushed stone just under the screed, to make preparations, so to speak. Again, there would be Good photo this backfill with soil, it would be possible to say something more precisely. But according to your words, I understand that there is most likely clay there. What kind of soil did you dig up?

Photo of manual tamper:

3. I would recommend that you add 5-10 cm of bedding. Firstly, this will level out all the unevenness and holes. Secondly, this is not bad for a concrete rough screed; it will be inconvenient for you to pour the screed on the ground and vibrate it. And if there is a small layer, then you can safely vibrate it with a vibrating lath. But this layer is completely optional; it is advisable to add sand. See for yourself. The polyethylene film needs to be thick and preferably in 2 layers (Technical film, polyethylene sleeve, secondary LDPE (1500x120µn x100m)). Look at Prom.UA, I saw her there. Can be used old roofing felt or roofing felt. It is advisable to make an overlap on the wall of no more than 10 cm; there will also be an overlap from the waterproofing (roofing felt). When you lay it, you also overlap the layers by 5 cm and seal it with tape. There is no need to fix it, just pour it on top, it will adhere as it should.

Once the base of the floor is prepared for pouring the screed, you can begin installing the beacons. Beacons are necessarily needed as guides along which the horizontal plane and the surface of the screed are aligned. If in the roughing it is possible to somehow do without them, then in the finishing they are necessary to raise the reinforcing mesh from the bottom edge and level the floor level.

4. The rough screed consists of concrete, since it is a load-bearing part and it acts as a kind of floor slab. Therefore, the concrete grade M150 will suffice. To make M150 concrete, one part of cement, 3.5 parts of sand, and 5.7 parts of aggregate (crushed stone) are used. If you are going to prepare the mixture yourself, then you need to purchase river sand (cement-sand screed ) and crushed stone fraction 5-10 ( concrete screed), as well as cement M300 or M400.

The floor layers will be like this:

1. Backfilling, you don’t have to do it, although I would level it with sand.

2. The film prevents cement laitance from leaking, it partially retains the laitance, but this is usually enough for concreting. They won't tear, it's thick polyethylene. Even if there are small holes, you will put it in 2 layers.

3. Rough screed 7-10 cm without reinforcement made of M150 concrete. It dries and gains strength by 70% within 7 days, that is, after 7 days you can walk and carry out the next stage of work.

4. Waterproofing roofing felt, preferably in 2 layers, because crushed stone sticking out of concrete can damage 1 layer, but 2 are enough. A layer of waterproofing is laid extending onto the wall by approximately 10 cm. A damper tape is attached to the wall along the entire perimeter of the floor. It will compensate for the thermal expansion of the floor when heated. As a result, you can trim off the excess waterproofing and damper tape. This relates to question 5.

5. Foam plastic or EPS, 50 mm thick, strength 35 kg/cub.m. They don’t fix it, they just tape it so it doesn’t move. Ideally, this is, of course, EPS with locks, but usually it is more expensive than polystyrene foam. It is simply laid out neatly over the entire floor and then a finishing screed is carefully applied. You can walk on it, but also very carefully. Place a reinforcing mesh on the insulation.

6. Finish screed with underfloor heating and mesh reinforcement (in cards or rolls) with a wire diameter of 3-6 mm, with a cell of 100x100 mm, an overlap of 100 mm when rolling. In your case, the mesh is placed directly on the floor and an intermediate thin screed is poured, the thickness of which is 2-3 cm. It is necessary for the thin screed to gain the required strength. This will take two to five days (at room temperature). In this case, the damper tape does not make sense, since it does not work with thin layers of screed. We would rather lay it in a layer with waterproofing. By the way, it can be replaced by a laminate backing cut into strips of 5-8 cm and glued with double-sided tape.

Ask. Maybe I missed something.

answer

Floors on the ground are a universal way to create a warm and reliable foundation in the house. And they can be done at any groundwater level and type of foundation. The only limitation is the house is on stilts. In this article we will describe in detail all the layers of the “floor pie” and show how to organize it with your own hands.

Concrete floors on the ground imply the absence of basements or gaps for ventilation in the underground.

At its core, it is a multi-layer cake. Where the lowest layer is the soil, and the topmost is the floor covering. At the same time, the layers have their own purpose and strict sequence.

There are no objective restrictions for organizing the floor on the ground. High groundwater is not an obstacle to this. Their only weak point is production time and financial costs. But on such floors you can put brick or block walls, and even heavy equipment.

Correct “floor pie” on the ground

The classic floor pie on the ground implies the presence of 9 layers:

1. Prepared clay;
2. Sand cushion;
3. Crushed stone;
4. Polyethylene film;
5. Rough concreting;
6. Waterproofing;
7. Insulation;
8. Finish screed;
9. Flooring.

We deliberately did not indicate the thickness of each layer, so as not to set any strict restrictions. Below, approximate values ​​and influencing factors will be indicated. But first we would like to point out very important point: The groundwater level can change very seriously in a fairly short period of time.

In our practice, there have been cases when, within 5-7 years, dry semi-basements and cellars in private houses had to be filled up, because groundwater completely flooded the underground premises. Moreover, this phenomenon was observed not in one individual house, but in an entire block of private buildings (40-60 houses).

Experts explain such phenomena by improper drilling of water wells. Such actions lead to mixing of aquifer lenses, rupture of layers and changes in aquifers. Moreover, they can drill a well quite far from your home. So pay close attention to the purpose of each layer of the floor pie on the ground and do not think that there are unnecessary elements here.

1. Prepared clay. The purpose of this layer is to stop groundwater. In general, the three bottom layers of the floor pie are intended for exactly this. Of course, if, while removing the fertile layer, you have reached the clay layer, then you do not need to bring it and fill it up, only a little preparation is required. But more on that in due time.
2. Sand. There are no special requirements for sand. You can use any, for example, quarry or even unwashed.
3. Crushed stone. Large, fraction 40-60 mm.

These three layers are responsible for cutting off the capillary rise of water. A layer of clay cuts off the main access, sand weakens the capillary rise of water and weakens the pressure of the upper layers, and crushed stone does not allow water to rise at all. At the same time, each layer must be compacted. The thickness of each layer is at least 10 cm. Otherwise, there is no point in filling it up. But the maximum height needs to be explained in more detail. The fact is that tamping is most often done homemade devices. The weight of such instruments is 3-5 pounds.

It has already been empirically proven that it is impossible to compact a layer of crushed stone, sand or clay more than 20 cm with hand tools. Therefore, the thickness of one of the first three layers maximum - 20 cm. But, if you need to make the floor pie higher, then tamping can be carried out in two stages. First, 15-20 cm of sand is poured and compacted well. Then another layer of the same thickness is poured and compacted again.

The order of occurrence of the clay-sand-crushed stone layers cannot be changed. The reason here lies in the fact that if sand is poured on top of crushed stone, then after some time it will seep through it. Which in turn will lead to subsidence and destruction of the concrete layer, and then deformation of the entire floor.

1. Polyethylene film. Be sure to take the film with your sleeve and lay it without cutting. That is, there will actually be two layers of polyethylene. It is intended solely to prevent the concrete solution from flowing into the crushed stone.
2. Rough concreting. Minimum thickness layer 8 cm. Sand can be taken from a quarry, but it must be washed. But crushed stone is required with a fraction of 10-20 mm. This layer will be the basis for the final part of the floor on the ground. Dispersed steel fiber reinforcement is recommended.
3. . If the preliminary work is carried out correctly, ordinary roofing material without powder can handle waterproofing. If in doubt, you can lay roofing felt in two layers.
4. Thermal insulation. Here it is recommended to use only Extruded Polystyrene Foam (EPS). Thickness should be determined depending on the region and climatic conditions. But we do not recommend using EPS with a thickness of less than 50 mm.
5. Finish screed. Depending on the project, water heated floor pipes or electric floor heating cables can be integrated into it. Only river sand is used. This layer must be reinforced. Dispersed reinforcement with steel fiber is possible. The thickness of the screed is at least 50 mm.
6. Flooring. Concrete floors on the ground, organized in a private house in this way, have no restrictions on the use of floor coverings.

Installing a floor on the ground with your own hands

Before starting work, calculate the excavation depth. The calculation is carried out in reverse order. That is, the threshold is taken as zero front door. Then they begin to add up the thickness of each layer. For example:

• Linoleum – 1 cm;
• Finish screed – 5 cm;
• Insulation – 6 cm;
• Rough screed – 8 cm;
• Crushed stone – 15 cm;
• Sand – 15 cm;
• Prepared clay – 10 cm.

The total depth turned out to be 60 cm. But keep in mind that we took minimum values. And each building is individual. Important: add 5 cm of depth to the result obtained for you.

Excavation is carried out to the calculated depth. Of course, the fertile layer will be removed, but clay may not always be below. Therefore, we will describe the process of organizing a floor pie on the ground in full.

Before filling the layers, draw level marks with chalk in 5 cm increments on all corners of the foundation. They will make the task of leveling each layer easier.

Soil compaction

Any clay will do for these purposes. It is scattered in an even layer, and before compacting it is generously moistened with an aqueous solution of liquid glass. The proportions of the solution are 1 part liquid glass and 4 parts water.

To compact the first three layers, you can use a one and a half meter piece of timber 200x200. But the process will be of better quality if you make a special device. To do this, a piece of channel is welded to a one and a half meter piece of metal pipe in a T-shape. The lower part of the channel should not have an area of ​​more than 600 cm2 (20 by 30 cm). To make the tamper heavier, sand is poured into the pipe.

The compacted layer of prepared clay is well moistened with cement laitance. To prepare it, 2 kg of cement is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Make sure that no puddles form on the surface of the clay. That is, it should be fairly even.

Almost immediately after the cement comes into contact with liquid glass, the chemical process of crystallization begins. It goes away quite quickly, but during the day you should not disturb the crystal formation in any way. Therefore, do not walk on clay, but rather leave the work for a day for a technological break.

The main layers of the “floor pie”

Sand. After a day, you should start filling the sand. At the same time, try not to walk on the first layer. Pour sand and step on it. Chemical processes between liquid glass and cement will continue for another week and a half. But air access is no longer needed for this, and water is present in the clay. Having poured a layer of 15 cm, feel free to step on it and compact it.

Crushed stone. It is scattered in an even layer over the surface of the sand and also compacted. Pay attention to the corners. It is very important that after compacting the surface is as smooth as possible.

Polyethylene film. It is laid with a 10 cm overlap and taped. A small, 2-3 cm bend on the walls is allowed. You can walk on the film in soft shoes with extreme caution. Remember that polyethylene film is not, but only a technological layer to prevent laitance from flowing into crushed stone.

Rough concreting.“Lean concrete” is prepared in the following proportion: M500 cement – ​​1 hour + sand 3 hours + crushed stone 4 hours. For dispersed reinforcement, steel fiber should be added at the rate of 1 kg. fiber per 1 cubic meter of concrete. Try to level the freshly poured solution, following the corner marks. On a flatter surface, it will subsequently be more convenient to lay layers of waterproofing and insulation.

48 hours after pouring, the concrete must be reinforced. To do this, you will need a solution of liquid glass in water (1:10) and cement. First, the solution is passed over the entire surface. You can use a roller, or you can use a spray bottle. Then they dust the concrete with a thin layer and immediately begin to rub the cement into the surface. The most convenient way to do this is by grouting.

This procedure increases the strength of concrete by an order of magnitude, and in combination with liquid glass makes it as waterproof as possible. The concrete will mature within a month and a half, but work can begin on the next stage in just a week.

Insulation and waterproofing

To create a waterproofing layer, the floor surface is cleaned and treated with liquid bitumen. Ruberoid is laid overlapping, with an allowance of 3-5 cm. The joints are carefully soldered using a construction hair dryer. Wall allowance 5 cm. IMPORTANT: Make sure that the roofing material fits into the corners and do not leave any voids. The second layer of roofing felt is laid offset by half the width of the roll. During waterproofing work, it is best to walk on the surface in shoes with soft soles (sneakers, galoshes).

For thermal insulation, the best option is extruded polystyrene foam. A 5 cm thick EPS layer replaces 70 cm of expanded clay. And in addition, EPS has a practically zero water absorption coefficient and quite high compressive strength. We recommend laying 3 cm thick EPS in two layers. In this case, the top layer is laid with an offset. This method guarantees the absence of cold bridges and increases the thermal insulation properties of the floor pie. The joints between the EPS boards are glued with special tape.

Proper thermal insulation of the floor pie is an extremely important component for the energy efficiency of the entire house as a whole. Up to 35% of heat escapes through the floors! Even if the floors themselves do not produce heat (warm floors), they should be thermally insulated as much as possible. This will allow you to save quite impressive amounts on heating in the future.

Floor screed

Glue along the room, 15-20 mm thick. In this case, the lower part must be glued to the EPS boards. To reinforce the floor on the ground in residential premises, use a masonry mesh with cells of 100x100 mm. Wire thickness 3 mm. The mesh must be placed on supports so that it is approximately in the middle of the screed layer. To do this, it is placed on special stands. But you can use regular PET bottle caps.

Installation of beacons is possible, but in combination with reinforcement mesh, this will create a rather bulky and extremely fragile structure. After all, if you rigidly fasten the mesh, this will require additional costs for fastening and will require violating the integrity of the EPS. And if the fittings are not fixed, then it can easily change the levels of the beacons. Therefore, it will be more convenient to fill this layer and then level it with a self-leveling screed.

For the finishing screed, the solution is diluted in the proportion of 1 part M500 cement + 3 parts river sand. The work is carried out promptly. To roughly level the surface, you can focus on the corner marks.

After pouring the finishing screed, it should be allowed to gain strength for 3-5 days. With a thickness of 5 cm, the ripening period of this layer will be 4-5 weeks. During this time, regular wetting of the surface with water is required.

Acceleration of the cement hydration process is unacceptable! After about a month, you can check the degree of readiness. To do this, in the evening, take a roll of dry toilet paper, place it on the floor and cover it with a saucepan on top. If in the morning toilet paper will be dry or slightly damp, then the layer is ready. You can level the floor with a self-leveling screed.

The self-leveling screed is diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions and poured onto the surface of the concrete floor. When the work is carried out scrupulously, height differences do not exceed 8-10 mm. Therefore, a self-leveling screed is required minimal amount. It dries quite quickly. And after 1-2 days the floor pie on the ground will be completely ready for laying the floor covering.

Schemes for installing a floor on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• supported on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on joists;
• supported on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options will be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, floors on the ground are a popular solution for all rooms on the first floor. Floors on the ground are cheap, simple and easy to implement; they are also beneficial to install in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, application modern materials, placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), such floors are made comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of a floor on the ground may be less than that of a floor above a ventilated underground.

It is better to abandon the floor on the ground if backfilling with soil is required to a height that is too high, more than 0.6-1 m. The costs of backfilling and soil compaction in this case may be too high.

A floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on piles or columnar foundation with a grillage located above the ground surface.

Three basic diagrams for installing floors on the ground

In the first version concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be designed for the standard load of the floors, have the appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. This type of floor is often called a “suspended floor on the ground”.

A suspended floor on the ground has to be made if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of the bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden logs in the spaces between load-bearing walls supported on bulk soil.

Here the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the latter option that is correctly called a floor on the ground, which is what our story will be about.

Ground floors must provide:

• thermal insulation of premises in order to save energy;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against intrusion into premises ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensation inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling the soil cushion for the floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-heaving soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for constructing a cushion: sand, fine crushed stone, sand-gravel mixture, and if the groundwater level is low, sandy loam and loam. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted layer by layer (no thicker than 15 cm.) by compacting and pouring water onto the soil. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if mechanical compaction is used.

Large crushed stones should not be placed in the cushion, broken brick, pieces of concrete. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the bulk soil cushion is recommended to be in the range of 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact the fill soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can cause the floor to settle too much and unevenly.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted crushed stone or expanded clay in the cushion. This underlying captage layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles smaller than 4 mm this layer should contain no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm. corresponds to 50 in terms of heat-saving ability mm. polystyrene foam To protect against crushing of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, the thickness of which is twice the size of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes for the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for installing pipes in them in the future.

Construction of floors on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor with concrete screed;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden joists.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive to construct, but is more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Placed on a ground cushion material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.). The film is applied to the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips 20 – 30 thick mm, cut from insulation boards.
3. Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete class B7.5-B10 to crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for gluing waterproofing. The radius of concrete joining the walls is 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is placed in the lower part of the slab with protective layer concrete at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations it can alsouse steel fiber 50-80 long mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. During hardening, the concrete is covered with film or watered. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation weld-on waterproofing is glued. Or two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen basis are laid on mastic with each layer placed on the wall. The rolls are rolled out and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be combined with a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation lay thermal insulation slabs. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Foam plastic with a minimum density of PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage) is also used. Polystyrene foam breaks down over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (that's all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by thermal engineering calculations.
6. On the thermal insulation layer lay the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to moisture contained in freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a “warm floor” system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide in the screed expansion joints. The monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. executed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf/cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed at the bottom of the layer. Read: . For more thorough surface leveling concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling solution of factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 is applied on top of the concrete layer cm.
8. On the screed installing finished floor.

This is a classic ground floor. On its basis it is possible various options execution - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floors on the ground are often made without a layer of concrete preparation. A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a basis for gluing roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation As waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the ground cushion.

The profiled membrane is a sheet of polyethylene high density(PVP) with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the shape of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with widths ranging from 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sand base without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into a sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes can withstand the movement of workers and machines for transporting concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding crawler-mounted machines) without breaking.

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand bed with the spikes facing down. The membrane spikes will be fixed in the pillow.

The seams between the overlapping rolls are carefully sealed with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which allows you to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used to construct a thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this embodiment, the polymer waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is made of expanded clay, then you can dispense with the insulation layer under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. Made of expanded clay with a bulk density of 250–300 kg/m 3 it is enough to do thermal insulation layer thickness 25 cm. Expanded clay with bulk density 400–500 kg/m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation ability, you will have to lay it in a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 thick cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical tamper. The easiest to compact is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay has reduced thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to install a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Large-porous expanded clay concrete without sand, encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a cement waterproof capsule.

The base for the floor, made of large-porous sand-free expanded clay concrete, will be durable, warm and with low water absorption.

Floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed

In floors on the ground, as the top load-bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises on the first floor of the house more than simple and cheap option There will be a floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, nor in wet areas- bathroom, boiler room.

The ground floor with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed made of ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 — Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The connection between the floor and the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Varnish coating parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.
6. Water-dispersed adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed of class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam PSB 35 or extruded polystyrene foam, thickness as calculated.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. External wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating (without heated floors).

Thickness of floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation tape in the floor, along the perimeter of the external walls, with a width of at least 0.8 m. From the outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the external walls, depends quite strongly on the temperature of the outside air. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and basement.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes be insulated. For this, It is recommended to install thermal protection at two levels (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate the basement and foundation of the house from the outside to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation into the floor structure around the perimeter of the external walls. The width of the insulation tape along the external walls is not less than 0.8 m.(pos. 11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the overall resistance to heat transfer in the area floor - soil - base must be no less than the same parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the insulation of the base plus the floor should be no less than the thickness of the insulation of the outer wall. For the climatic zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on a plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the external walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that insulating the foundation helps reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its base.

This minimum requirements to insulate the floor on the ground. It is clear that the larger the size of the thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface for the purpose of energy saving, it is only necessary in the case of installing heated floors in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room can be useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor covering surface. Heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W/(m 2 °C). A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on a concrete screed

Base slab made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. over a layer of crushed stone compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden blocks - logs with a minimum cross-section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., It is recommended to lay on a layer of waterproofing in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By moving or spreading the pads, the height of the lags is adjusted. The span between adjacent support points of the log is no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 mm wide should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

The logs lie freely without attachment to the base. During the installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary connections.

For the installation of a subfloor it is usually used wood boards— OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the slabs is at least 24 mm. All slab joints must be supported by joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent logs.

The subfloor can be made from tongue-and-groove floorboards. Such a floor made from high-quality boards can be used without floor covering. The permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the joists. Plates from mineral wool Be sure to cover the top with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents microparticles of insulation from penetrating into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers onto the concrete underlying layer using the melting method (for fused rolled materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing adhesive waterproofing it is necessary to ensure a longitudinal and transverse overlap of the panels of at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground space of floors on the ground along the joists, the rooms must have slots in the baseboards. Holes with an area of ​​20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room. cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on posts

There's another one design diagram gender is wooden floor on the ground on joists, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden joist.
9 — Wooden leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

Arranging the floor on joists along columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is the underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in the house pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.