How to make a balcony glazing. How to glaze a balcony with your own hands in a frameless way

The renovation is in full swing and it comes to improving the balcony? Of course, the modern variety in the service market makes you tense. Everyone wants high quality and cheap. How about making a balcony glazing with your own hands? Let's figure it out together.

Stage one - preparation.

You cannot do without it. It is important that the balcony does not collapse under the weight of the structure, the windows do not fly out at the first wind, and the sheathing does not come off as quickly as it is being installed.

Technical analysis is one of the components of the initial action. Assessment of design features, the percentage of dilapidation (accident rate) of a dwelling - these parameters will make it possible to conclude whether the structure of the house is designed for the fact that there will be an additional load on the balcony in the form of glazing.

After making sure that all this will definitely not collapse, we proceed to additional strengthening of the parapet. Depending on the future load, reinforcement is carried out by means of foam concrete blocks or metal.

Which material should you choose? The answer depends on your goals and the technical capabilities of the home. Metal will be universal, suitable even for extremely dilapidated balconies.

How to do this is indicated in detail in the diagram. We only note that a strong metal structure "ties" the parapet and is able to take on the main load of the glazing system.

If your balcony is strong and wide, then you can use foam blocks. This material also serves as excellent thermal insulation. But such a structure requires reinforcement with reinforcement. Otherwise, the desired effect will not be achieved.

After the preparatory work is completed, you can, without fear, deal directly with what, in fact, everything was started for.

Stage two - design selection.

Wooden Euro windows have a long service life, so you shouldn't worry that they will rot or dry out under the influence of external factors.
Aluminum frames are cheap, lightweight and most often used for cold glazing.
If you take PVC, then they have a wide range in the field of additional functions - noise insulation, thermal insulation, imitation of a certain style in architecture, etc. Of course, they are heavier than aluminum and are used for warm glazing.

What about the room lighting? In addition to frames, you should also pay attention to glass. You have a sunny side, and on the balcony you want to make a playroom? To prevent the baby's delicate skin from being exposed to ultraviolet rays, sunscreen glasses are used, which are covered with a film through a special technology.

How Energy Saving Glass Works

Such glass absorbs almost 99.9% of radiation. Or maybe the balcony is a future greenhouse? For this, tinted glass is used, which does not allow the sun's rays to penetrate through the glass and create a "magnifying glass" effect.

Colored glass, stained glass - these are ideas for specific styles of both interior and exterior. Well, and finally, energy-saving windows. The thinnest layer of metal is applied to the glass surface at the factory, which retains heat inside the room.

Glass, construction, reinforcement - all preparatory issues have been covered, the decision has been made. It remains only to understand how you can glaze it at all. To do this, go to the next step.

Video - what is and what are the possibilities of energy-saving glass:

Stage three - the choice of the glazing method.

The variety is surprising, just look at the neighboring house. What you can not see there, but we focus on the methods.

a) With removal. The internal space becomes wider due to the removal of the window profile (relative to the main fence). The increase is insignificant - 20-25 cm. A window sill can be placed on such a frame.

b) Frameless. In fact, you get a panoramic window without vertical frames and horizontal partitions. A lot of light is a plus. A problem with leaving (eg washing) is a minus. The design is quite durable, so you shouldn't worry about bad weather.

Stage four - installation of the visor.

This should be done before the glazing system is installed, in order not to think later how to stick it there so that it does not come off. Using ordinary dowel nails, we attach it to the ceiling.

After the visor is fixed, you can start glazing, but first, you should fix the anchor plates on all sides, except for the bottom.

Video - installation of a loggia with a visor:

Stage five - step by step instructions for glazing.

Of course, the balcony should be freed from everything that was previously there: chairs, flowers, linoleum, tiles, old rubbish and so on. The issue of strengthening was discussed earlier, so we will omit the description of this procedure.

Installation of wooden windows.

Correct installation according to gost

Installation of the frame. The bars that serve as the base are pre-treated with a sealant (but only the mounting surface). Further, a wooden structure is erected along the perimeter using mounting dowels.

Installation of windows. Frames must be glazed, as the glasses can simply break. Installation is carried out in the following sequence: frontal structure - side elements.

After - it is obligatory to seal the joints with the help of sealant and polyurethane foam. When everything hardens (at least a day), you can glaze. But first, all grooves must be treated with silicone sealant. The beads, with which the glass is fixed, must firmly press it against the frame.

Video - how to glaze a balcony with wooden windows:

Installation of an aluminum frame.

We eliminate all unnecessary things, namely: we remove all the opening elements, so as not to complicate our life, we remove the glazing, as in the previous case.
Plates for mounting are attached to the frame (with self-tapping screws for metal), with a step of 700 mm or more.
Installation of the frame in the opening, followed by alignment (horizontal, vertical, plane).
Fastening the mounting plates to surfaces with dowels.
We hang the sash, return the glass.
All holes and gaps are eliminated with polyurethane foam.

Video - how to install an aluminum frame with your own hands:

Precipitation falls on the balcony without glazing, a lot of street dust accumulates there and presents from birds appear. Often apartment owners prefer not to store anything in such an open area. To make the balcony a full-fledged enclosed space, it is better to glaze it. Anyone can do it with their own hands.

What you need to be prepared for before starting glazing

Balcony glazing requires a professional approach. In such work, it should be remembered that the balcony slab is designed for a certain load. Therefore, it may not withstand the increase in weight. In order to prevent the fatal collapse of the entire structure, it is better to seek the advice of specialists. They will be able to give clear recommendations on the materials that can be used for glazing in a particular case.

When glazing a loggia, such detailed calculations of the bearing capacity of the balcony slab are not required, since the load of the loggia sidewall is transferred to the main wall of the house. Glazing can be produced by almost any material and method.

It is better to do the glazing of the balcony with your own hands together with an assistant. In such work, you will have to constantly bend over the parapet, so a person who can insure will not hurt. For safety, it is advisable to prepare the safety equipment in advance.

Balcony glazing - choose the best way

Do-it-yourself balcony glazing can be done both cold and warm. In the first version, lightweight frames with single glasses are most often used. In winter, it is quite cold on such a balcony, therefore, during this period of the year, this room is used as a storage room for food. Well, in the summer on the balcony with such glazing, you can arrange gatherings.

To avoid unnecessary care, an aluminum profile can be recommended as a substitute for wood. Such material is easy to install, environmentally friendly and lightweight. During operation, aluminum is not subject to decay. Therefore, there is no need to worry about the destruction of this material. For such a case, the doors can be used both rotary and swing-out. Recently, sliding sashes are gaining popularity.

Such balcony glazing requires a serious approach to work and careful calculation, since the dew point should not be inside the balcony. Condensation in the room from improper insulation can lead to mold in the entire apartment. So that the dew point is not in the room, it is required to carry out high-quality hydro and thermal insulation of the floor and parapet. Remember, even a small gap or cold bridge can lead to condensation.

For warm glazing of balconies, a double-glazed unit with seals is needed. It is recommended to implement natural ventilation, which can be adjusted independently. For this, the manufacturer of metal-plastic windows provides ventilation dampers. To get rid of condensation, air circulation is required between the balcony and the room. For this purpose, it is necessary to mount a fan in the window of the room, which will draw air out of the room. A ventilation grill is required at the bottom of the balcony door.

Varieties of glazing

In elite multi-storey buildings, as a rule, panoramic glazing of balconies is used. This option involves a glass railing from floor to ceiling. The most popular frameless panoramic glazing, with which the natural lighting of the room is increased several times.

For such glazing, impact-resistant glass 6–8 mm thick is used, which is treated with metal oxide. Such a glass unit is quite difficult to break. Thanks to special coatings, glass can reflect heat back into the room and let ultraviolet light into the room. Such double-glazed windows have very high sound insulation properties.

Glass doors can be hinged, sliding (on rollers) or folding. In the case of a small balcony space, the best option would be to use a sliding mechanism. In this version, when the doors are opened, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is not lost.

Also, aluminum profiles are used for glazing. The weight depends on the thickness of the glass and the size of the sections, but, as a rule, does not exceed 20 kg per linear meter. m. Therefore, it becomes possible to carry out glazing of the balcony with the removal. For this, detailed strength calculations are not required.

To assemble the sections, you will need to make guides at the top and bottom of the balcony opening. Then you need to install vertical posts. Then the frame is attached using latches and locks. It is imperative to measure the evenness of the location of the guides and racks. The misalignment should not exceed 5 mm per linear meter. m.

Glazing of balconies can also be done using metal-plastic windows. In this version, the weight of the structure will be 40 kg per linear meter. m. It is recommended to install such glazing before installing the window sill. Racks made of a metal-plastic profile must be attached to the ceiling and parapet using self-tapping screws.

Before installation, double-glazed windows must be removed in all windows, since glass can be easily broken during installation work. To get the double-glazed windows out of the frame, you need to pull out the window glazing beads.

Also, before installing the frame, it is required to remove all the doors. To do this, it is necessary to squeeze out the pins in the upper hinges, which can be pulled out using pliers. The sash can then be removed from the lower hinge.

If it is decided to make a winter garden or a greenhouse on the balcony, then glazing of the balcony with a take-out can be used. This will require a parapet of increased strength. Additionally, you will have to take care of installing the visor.

Sequential balcony glazing

The decoration and glazing of the balconies is always done at different stages. For example, with lattice fencing, insulation and decorative external finishing are done before glazing begins. But the interior decoration and installation of the window sill must be done after the window frames are installed.

In the presence of a brick or concrete parapet, it is primarily necessary to level its surface with a cement mortar. Then do the exterior decoration. Only then can the glazing work be carried out. Interior decoration and insulation is done after installing the window sill.

If the balcony does not have an upper ceiling or is hanging, then pipe stands must be used. They will be able to withstand most of the glazing load. External frames are required to be made from corners of 40-60 mm. With the help of a grinder, it is necessary to smooth out all the welded seams. After that, you need to do degreasing with stripping. Then you can cover the entire frame with acrylic enamel.

The most time-consuming stage of work is the creation of a visor. It should protrude 15 cm beyond the glazing. As a rule, 40 mm corners are used. The height of the visor is made within 40 cm.

The first step for the visor is to make a frame in which you need to drill 10–12 mm holes for the anchor bolts. The distance between the holes should be 40-60 cm. It is necessary to count on the fact that there should be at least 4 holes along the entire length.

To mark the places for the bolts on the wall, you need to attach a frame, align it horizontally using a level and draw marks in the holes. Then you can start drilling the holes for the anchors. Once the bolts are in place, the frame itself can be attached to the wall.

The next step is to create cross members and slopes that need to be welded to the frame. Then the outer bar is attached. Upon completion, you can proceed with the installation of the roof of the visor. As a rule, galvanized sheets are used for this. They must be laid with an overlap in one wave. To prevent water from flowing between the wall and the roof during the rain, it is required to wind the sheets inside the groove.

The width of the bearing frames must be made with a small margin (10-15 mm) from the thickness of the window. According to experts, the frame can have a maximum size of 1100x1500 mm (provided that a 40 mm corner is used). If a corner of 60 mm is used, then the length can be made 1300x1700 mm. With the help of pipe supports, the frame must be connected to the visor by welding.

When the frame is fully installed, you can start decorating and insulating. For cladding, it is possible to use metal sheets, which must be welded to the frame. Alternatively, you can use moisture-resistant plywood or drywall for finishing. The balcony clad with siding looks quite decent. Basalt wool is used as an insulating material.

The glazing process begins with the installation of window frames, which must be fixed to the corners with 6 mm self-tapping screws. The distance between the fasteners should be 25-30 cm. After the window frames are fixed, all the grooves must be foamed. Then the window sashes are installed and the double-glazed windows are put in place. Upon completion, you can proceed to the interior decoration. For this purpose, use wooden lining, plastic panels or drywall, which can be painted.

Do-it-yourself glazing of the balcony is one of the works that even a very skillful home craftsman cannot be recommended to do alone. The point is, first of all, in the strength of the balcony slab: it may simply not withstand the weight of additional structures. Therefore, before glazing a balcony, it is necessary to consult with DEZ, BTI, or, better, call a specialist from a glazing company for advice, and in accordance with his verdict and make further plans.

The only exception is the glazing of the balcony with the Provedal aluminum profile - it is very light and practically does not give any additional load. But Provedal does not have thermal insulation properties: you will not get additional living space. In addition, you will have to buy a profile for yourself at a retail price, and the cost of installation is only 8-10% of the cost of professional work. Considering also that the professionals will prepare the mounting elements on special equipment, it will most likely turn out that a homemade balcony-visit will come out more expensive and worse than a custom one.

The glazing of the loggia does not require such careful measurements and strength calculations - its sidewalls transfer well the load to the bearing wall. If the house itself is in a satisfactory condition, you can glaze the loggia in any of the ways described below.

But in all cases, at least one assistant is needed - an assistant insurer. Although the described glazing methods do not require climbing work (i.e., you will not need to hang outside), you will still have to bend and hang over the parapet. So, in addition to building tools, you will need safety equipment to glaze your balcony.

Precautions

All work on the glazing of the balcony must be done with a safety belt. It is better to use a sports one - it is lighter and cheaper than an industrial one. The industrial one is safer and more durable, but you do not systematically engage in climbing work.

The halyard of the belt should be approximately 2.5 m long. Too short a halyard will complicate the work, and if it is too long, if you suddenly fall down, a jerk can dangerously injure. The halyard carabiner, and the entire belt as a whole, must withstand a load of 400 kg. If the load value is not indicated in the certificate for the belt, or there is no certificate at all, such a belt should not be taken.

The safety rope must be securely fastened. To do this, for the time of work, drive the anchor rod with a metal collet into the main wall, not less than 150 mm. The head of the stud is in the form of a ring with a generatrix with a thickness of at least 8 mm; diameter of the hairpin body - from 16 mm.

You need to screw the pin into the collet until it stops and tightly, inserting a powerful screwdriver or pry bar into the ring. At the end of the work, the head of the hairpin, so as not to interfere, is cut off with a grinder flush with the wall.

Cold and warm glazing

Cold glazing is made with single panes in lightweight frames. Such a balcony is suitable for gatherings in summer, and for a pantry in winter. However, it is impossible to save on the supporting frame for a cold balcony: the windage of the glazing does not decrease, and the glazing frame mainly bears the wind load.

For warm glazing, the dew point must not be displaced inside the balcony. Otherwise, the falling condensation will negate all your efforts to expand the living space, and may cause the entire apartment to become damp. Also, the penetration of the dew point into the space between the glasses is unacceptable; on a balcony outside the building's outline, this is doubly difficult to ensure. To make sure the dew point is driven out, four conditions must be met:

Make good heat and waterproofing of the parapet and floor. Any gap or thermal path from outside to inside will cause condensation to form.
Use window frames with double seals and double-glazed windows. If traditional wooden frames are to be used, provide a rubber double seal for the swing ones, and carefully seal the gaps with putty or liquid nails in the blind ones.
It is imperative to provide for controlled natural ventilation: use metal-plastic windows with a ventilation flap, and with wooden ones in the parapet, arrange a ventilation valve outward.
Ensure air circulation between the living room and the balcony: install an exhaust fan in the window overlooking the balcony, and make a ventilation grill at the bottom of the balcony door.

Glazing types

Panorama

are made in elite class residential buildings. Often they are glazed from top to bottom. Such glazing is frameless. On the top and bottom, guides are allowed into which glasses enter on special fasteners. Glazing sections can be sliding, hinged and folding.

The seeming "airiness" of such glazing is actually quite heavy: glass is installed especially strong and thick, with a transparent or tinted coating that reflects infrared (thermal) radiation. Work on panoramic glazing of a balcony requires the highest professionalism with a serious production base and cannot be done independently.

Aluminum profile

Glazing on a special Provedal profile is also often called panoramic: it gives a view not much worse than frameless. Promedal glazing allows you to make both hinged and sliding windows. The glazing sections are also assembled on the upper and lower guides: first, vertical posts are installed in them, and then the frame is inserted into the resulting opening with locks and latches.

The weight of Provedal glazing is no more than 20 kg per linear meter, depending on the section height and glass thickness. Therefore, it is possible to glaze hanging balconies with Provedal without preliminary strength calculation. This is especially important if overhang glazing is required, see below. The cost of Provedal on a balcony without distortion is 5 times lower than metal-plastic glazing with insulation.

Provedal glazing requires exact horizontal and parallelism of the upper surface of the parapet and the lower - upper ceiling. Although the latches are adjustable, the adjustment travel is only 15 mm. Taking into account the increase in skew during adjustment, deviation from the horizontal and non-parallelism of the supporting surfaces is not more than 5 mm per linear meter. If it is more, then in terms of labor and money for leveling, Provedal loses all its advantages, especially since this glazing is cold.

Metal-plastic

Balcony glazing with plastic windows by weight per linear meter - up to 40 kg - is average between the aluminum profile and the supporting frame. In most cases, it can be done on hanging balconies. Windows can be hinged / tilted and sliding. Glazing is possible both warm and cold.

Installation of metal-plastic glazing is carried out on the parapet before installing the window sill:

End, corner and intermediate posts are installed from a wooden beam of 60 mm or a special metal-plastic profile. Racks from a bar are attached to the parapet and the upper overlap with corners on self-tapping screws. Their outer surface can be sewn up with a PVC strip.
Double-glazed windows are removed from the windows, otherwise they can be easily split when removing the frames. To do this, prying with a narrow screwdriver, pull out the glazing beads - their ends are made protruding before final installation. Taking out the glass unit, you need to carefully assemble its clips.
The flaps are removed, for which the pin of the upper loop is squeezed out and pulled out with pliers; after that, lifting the sash, remove it from the lower hinge.
A dummy profile is attached from the bottom of the frame.
Complete anchor plates are inserted into the grooves of the frame.
Frames are inserted into openings, checked for skew. Align with wedges if necessary.
The frames are fixed with self-tapping screws into the mounting holes of the anchors.
Double-glazed windows and doors are inserted back, mechanisms are mounted, and they are checked for operation.
The grooves are foamed, the window sill is installed, and the final finish is made.

However, the wind resistance of metal-plastic glazing leaves much to be desired. In addition, a visor has to be made over a balcony hanging at least one corner without an upper overlap. In this case, the labor intensity of metal-plastic is close to that for glazing on a supporting frame, but without it, the glazing does not take up the vertical load and may be too heavy. If the balcony parapet is weak, then it needs to be removed and a new one should be laid out in half a brick, which further increases the cost, labor intensity, and weight.

Glazing with an extension is well suited for narrow balconies and for a balcony - a greenhouse or a greenhouse. But for such glazing, a strong parapet is needed, and with ordinary glazing, work is also needed to construct a durable visor in addition to the upper ceiling. Therefore, it is better to glaze a balcony with a take-out with Provedal.

Glazing on the supporting frame

This "Soviet" glazing is very laborious and weighs a lot, up to 80 kg per meter. The pipes with corners used for it in the past quickly rusted and the new ones did not look very good either. But now the interest in frame glazing is reviving:

The welded steel frame is relatively cheap, but very strong and durable.
Its painting with acrylic enamel for baths gives the frame a look no worse than that of PVC and reliably protects against corrosion.
The connection of the frame with the canopy or top floor into one whole allows to distribute the weight load, so that such glazing can load the balcony slab even less than metal-plastic.
Windows of any type can be inserted into the frames, from Old Testament wooden windows to the same Provedal or solid glass.
Windows can be made very wide; they only account for the wind load.
The problem of a weak parapet is eliminated. It is cut off, and the supporting frames are made integral of their upper and lower parts, and the lower one can be made below the previous parapet, and such a balcony will look no worse than a panoramic one. The lower opening is easily insulated with plywood or plasterboard with a layer of foam plastic - complex insulation work on a double crate disappears.

In general, if you have two strong and intelligent assistants, and you are used to working with your hands, glazing on the supporting frame may be the best option: as a result, you will receive a full-fledged additional living area for at least 20 years.

The frame glazing design is clear from the pictures. The figure at the bottom right (vertical section) illustrates a case where an existing balcony rail is used. This is possible if the length of the balcony does not exceed 3 m, the fence bars are straight, with a cross-section of at least 16x16 mm, with a pitch of up to 160 mm, with upper and lower longitudinal ties and firmly sit in the slab. Otherwise, it is better to cut the old fence, and make the supporting frames in two parts, as described.

We glaze with our own hands

Sequence of work

If an old lattice fencing is used, then its insulation outside and inside and the external decorative finishing must be done before glazing. Interior decoration with the installation of a window sill is carried out after the installation of window frames. The top of the former fence should be horizontal; otherwise it is also better to cut it - alignment will cost more than the lower frames.

If the glazing is placed on a concrete or brick parapet, then its upper surface is leveled to the horizontal with cement mortar and an external decorative finish is made. Insulate and trim from the inside after installing the window sill.

Supporting frames, pipe supports and external corners

Pipe racks (highlighted in red in the figure) are necessary if the balcony is hanging and without an upper ceiling. In this case, they will take most of the weight load from the glazing and transfer it to the visor. If the length of the balcony is more than 4 m, then another intermediate pipe stand is needed in the middle of its long side.

The outer corners of the glazing are filled with polyurethane foam, its excess is cut off and sewn up with strips of galvanized or roofing sheet metal, using self-tapping screws or welding. Welded seams are smoothed out with a grinder, and the corners are painted with bath enamel, like the entire frame.

The supporting frames are made from a steel angle of 40-60 mm by welding. The seams are smoothed out, the frames are painted with the same acrylic enamel. They paint after stripping with degreasing, like a bath.

The lower frames are made taking into account the skew of the balcony slab; the joint of the upper and lower frames must be horizontal. Side frames should have a horizontal top. If the upper floor is also skewed, the upper side frames are made in the shape of the opening, but an additional corner is welded at the top so that the window opening comes out rectangular. The resulting wedge is sewn up with any suitable material - plywood, drywall, galvanized.

With a small, up to 20 mm, blockage of the walls, it is better to deepen the sides of the frames adjacent to them in the groove. If the blockage is larger, work on the balcony should be postponed and the building should be revised - perhaps it is emergency and nothing can be done on the balcony.

Visor

A visor for a hanging balcony is a simple construction (see Fig.), But the most time consuming and responsible. The visor should protrude 150 mm beyond the glazing on all free sides, based on this, its dimensions in plan are determined. Height - 400 mm. Corner size - 40 mm.

Do not try to assemble the visor right away: it is too heavy and bulky. Even if you are three or four and you can lift it, you will have to work at the risk of not only your own life, but also those of the passers-by below.

Installation of the visor is done as follows:

The rear frame is welded, and fixing holes for anchor bolts of 10-12 mm are immediately drilled into it. The pitch of the holes in the upper crossbar is 400-600 mm. At the bottom, the step can be increased up to a meter - the lower crossbar is pressed against the wall, and does not tend to break away from it. But there should be at least 4 holes along the length.
The rear frame is attached to the wall and is level and horizontally aligned. Places for bolts are marked on the wall and the upper edge of the frame is beaten off. This work must be done by at least three people.
Mounting holes are drilled in the wall, anchor collets are installed in them. Precisely along the upper edge of the frame is selected by a grinder with a 6 mm thick circle, a 20 mm deep strobe.
The frame is fixed to the wall.
Slopes and crossbars are cut along the length of the blank, their ends are cut to the required angle.
Slopes and crossbars are welded into the frame, then the outer crossbar is welded to them. When welding, it is necessary to control the horizontalness of the bottom surface and the perpendicularity of the crossbars. The crossmembers are welded first; their outer ends are propped up with a piece of timber with plywood spacers.
We are preparing the roofing of the canopy made of galvanized or roofing tin and blanks for the sidewall sheathing. Flooring seams are ordinary roofing. Decking width - with a margin of 20 mm.
Roof decking is being installed; its upper edge is inserted into the strobe. The flooring is attached to the frame by welding along the contour. You need to cook with a 2 mm electrode at a current of about 60 A. Then the sidewalls are also welded.
The strobe is sealed with cement mortar.

Note: the inner edge of the roof deck, placed in the gutter, guarantees against leakage along the wall for the entire service life of the deck. When painted with bath enamel, this is over 10 years.

Pipe racks

Pipe racks are needed if a welded canopy is installed above the balcony. If there is an upper concrete floor above the balcony, you can do without them. Material - steel pipe with the same outer diameter as the corner: 40-60 mm.

From above, the ends of the pipe supports are attached to the visor by welding; for the lower ones in the balcony slab, holes with a depth of 15-20 mm and a diameter of 10-15 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe are selected with a core drill. The pipes are finally adjusted to size in place, with a grinder with a metal circle. The pipe, tilting, is inserted into the hole and brought to the place with your hands; perhaps slightly tapping with a mallet. The pipe should not go tightly into the space - it is life-threatening to drive in the pipe and push it, pushing with all your might! The groove around the end of the pipe in the hole is cemented.

Carrying frames

The upper supporting frames are welded to fit the size of the window frames with a margin of 10-15 mm in width, and in height with the same plus the thickness of the window sill. The maximum size for frames from a 40 mm corner is 1100x1500 mm. From a 60 mm corner, you can make a frame of 1300x1700 mm, but the weight of the entire frame will almost double.

The lower frames, if the old parapet is removed, are made for the remainder of the height, taking into account the skew of the balcony slab for the side ones. The frames are connected by welding to each other, with the visor and the pipe supports; with concrete surfaces - self-tapping screws 8-10x150 mm in dowels.

Hole spacing for fasteners - 200-300 mm. More often it is not necessary to fasten: the concentration of stresses in the middle of the gaps between the screws can weaken the structure.

Note: it makes no sense to use expensive aluminum for the frame on TIG-welding or self-tapping screws: strength decreases, and 3/4 of the weight of the glazing is given by windows and insulation.

External finishing

Outside corners, as indicated above, are foamed and sewn up with sheet metal strips. Without foaming, condensation will settle in the formed cavity, which will lead to corrosion of the frame.

The lower frames from the outside can be sheathed in advance with a metal sheet for welding. In this case, the weld beads are removed with a grinder with a grinding wheel before installing the frames. The second option for the lower frames is to be sealed from the inside with plywood or drywall. Both methods are equivalent in strength and reliability.

The lower frames are mounted first; an ebb (dripstone) is laid on their upper surface. The upper frames are first attached from above and from the sides, and only then are they welded to the lower ones. If a gap of more than 3 mm is obtained, a strip of sheet metal is inserted into it before welding. Welding is carried out outside. This has to be done hanging over, so insurance is required. The frame shelves protruding into the inside are welded with clamps, it is possible along the entire length.

Before installing the window frames, the entire frame, including the visor, is painted with acrylic enamel outside and inside. Before painting, the frame must be cleaned with a drill with a wire brush and degreased with a nitro thinner. Kerosene and solvent for degreasing before painting with bath enamel are not suitable! It is necessary to paint in clear, calm weather in order to avoid dust settling on the frame.

Installation of windows

Before installing the windows, you need to put in place and attach the window sill to the corners with 6 mm screws. Under the frame shelves protruding into the interior, grooves are cut out in the window sill. Three attachment points are enough for one window section for a window sill: from above the window sill will be additionally pressed by the window, and from below it is supported by a crate of internal insulation.

Windows can be installed in the supporting frame of any type. Anchor plates for window frames are not needed: the window frames are mounted on 6 mm self-tapping screws through the frame to the corners. The fixing step is 250-300 mm. The frames of metal-plastic windows are installed immediately assembled, only after removing the double-glazed windows. Alignment of window frames with wedges when installed in a supporting frame is usually not required.

After installing the window frames, the grooves between them are foamed and proceeded to. As options, you can consider either.

Conclusion

Two novice masters will cope with the glazing of the balcony with an aluminum profile in 3-4 hours with smoke breaks. The cost of money is the lowest possible. But such glazing will only protect from wind, rain, dust and leaves.
Glazing with metal-plastic windows will cost 5-7 times more, and you can install it over the weekend. On such a balcony with insulation in winter, during daylight hours, you can spend an hour or two in home clothes.
For glazing on the supporting frame, two skilled craftsmen with one or two helpers will have to kill with half a vacation. It cannot be installed on every balcony, and at a cost it will hardly come out cheaper than a metal-plastic one. But in the end, you get a room in which you can live and work for decades all year round.

So that the balcony area does not remain ownerless, you can carry out some work to transform it and turn it into a small, but very functional room. Since this room is not heated, first of all, it must be glazed and insulated.

It can become possible with your own hands if you study in detail the instructions for carrying out this process. But when the window frames have already been installed and glazed, nothing will interfere with the work on further insulation and decoration of the room - neither rain nor wind.

Glazing types

If a decision is made to upgrade, you need to start by choosing the type of glazing. It can be traditional - using ordinary wooden frames or euro-frames - aluminum, metal-plastic and wooden with the installation of double-glazed windows. In addition, glazing can be frameless, insulated and cold.

Warm and cold glazing

Glazing of balconies can be cold and warm, and both are performed both when installing ordinary wooden frames, and more advanced ones.

Cold glazing includes the installation of wooden frames with ordinary glass or Euro frames - also with one hermetically installed glass. It is used if the balcony is not planned to be used year-round as a living space.

The simplest glazing is of the "cold" type

A balcony made in this way should not have special requirements for maintaining temperature. Frames can only make the room neat and protected from wind, dust, and slightly reduce the penetration of sounds from the street.

Cold glazing does not require additional insulation measures. The only thing that can be done is to arrange a wooden flooring on the floor for comfort.

glazing is necessary if the balcony or loggia will be combined with one of the rooms. The entire room must be insulated with one or another thermal insulation material.

With such a change in the layout, frames with double-glazed windows with triple glazing are installed.

Warm insulation requires a more serious approach.

If one of the Euro-glazing options is selected, then you need to purchase frames with thermo-inrates that fit between the profile and the glass unit.

Double-glazed windows should have one, or better - two vacuum chambers - this choice will depend on the weather conditions in the region.

Further, when creating a warm room, it must be remembered that it must not be allowed to the so-called dew point formed indoors. Failure to do this will lead to dampness and mold due to the formation of condensation - first on the balcony, and then in the room.

It is impossible to allow the formation of a "dew point" and between the glasses installed on the frames, carried out beyond the perimeter of the balcony. In this case, it is much more difficult to achieve the correct balance of the effect of temperatures on the windows, since they can be cooled not only through the glass, but also from the lower and upper end sides. Therefore, you need to carefully consider their insulation.

If wooden frames are chosen, then it will be necessary to "conjure" by installing good insulation between them, as well as a seal between the frame and the glass.

In order to prevent mold spots from appearing on the balcony, it is necessary to carry out a number of measures that will help to avoid dampness:

- sealing cracks and gaps in the floor and on the walls of the room before insulation;

- waterproofing of the floor and balcony parapet;

- organization of effective ventilation.

The ventilation device is one of the main conditions for preventing the formation of condensation. But, in order not to cool the insulated room, it should be regulated:

- on euro windows it is installed in the upper horizontal part of the profile;

- when installing wooden frames, which are closed tightly for the winter, a through ventilation valve with an adjustable damper must be built into one of the upper sections of the window or wall.

Air handling unit prices

Ventilation units

Traditional wooden frames with glazing

In recent years, this option for protecting the balcony from rain, wind and snow is becoming a thing of the past, but nevertheless, some apartment owners prefer it because of the low cost of the material and the ability to carry out the process independently.

"Classics of the genre" - wooden frames

Such glazing will not save from frost and will not make the balcony warmer in winter, nor will it create effective sound insulation from external noise, but it will become an obstacle to dust, wind and precipitation. In winter, the balcony protected in this way can only be used as a refrigerator.

Nevertheless, if you install double wooden frames, insulate them well, as well as walls, floor and ceiling, and install heating devices, then in not very cold weather you can use the balcony as a living room.

The glazing of wooden balcony frames does not go quickly, since in each of them you need to install a separate glass on a special putty, securing it with nails driven through the glazing bead. It should be noted that this process is very tedious and requires the utmost care.

The disadvantages of such glazing include the complexity of putting the glasses in order, especially if double frames are installed, twisted together. In addition, wooden frames require special treatment and periodic painting.

Metal-plastic windows

Euro-glazed called the installation of metal-plastic frames with double-glazed windows. This way of transforming a balcony will cost much more, but it also has much more advantages over wooden frames.

Modern approach - metal-plastic frames

Double-glazed windows installed in metal-plastic profiles can have single, double or triple glazing. The advantages of this type of glazing are:

Aesthetics and accuracy of design.
The tightness of Euro-frames allows you to create effective heat and sound insulation, prevent precipitation, wind, dirt and dust from entering the premises. With additional insulation of all walls and the ceiling, the balcony becomes a full-fledged room in which you can arrange an office, workshop, greenhouse or quiet recreation area.
If you know the process of installing euro-frames, then you can mount them quickly enough yourself.
The ease of care will allow you to put them in order more often and faster.
Frames do not require additional annual insulation events and painting.
When installing special locks on the opening sashes of windows, you will not be afraid that the child will be able to open the frame on his own.

Aluminum frames

Frames made of aluminum are now quite popular for installation on a balcony. They are used for both cold and warm glazing. In the first case, options with single or double glazing are used. But when organizing a warm room, frames with thermo-inserts.

Aluminum frames can be installed on parapets, or panoramic glazing structures can be composed of them. It should be noted that in the latter case, the thermal insulation of the balcony decreases, since the metal has a very high thermal conductivity.

When using aluminum frames, it is recommended to leave part of the balcony closed and install glazing only in front of the parapet. This design is called "French balcony".

Advantages of aluminum frames:

This metal is very lightweight, and at the same time has high mechanical strength.
Aluminum has good heat resistance indicators, it does not burn, and is not affected by corrosion.
The service life of such structures is on average 50 ÷ 70 years.
The lightness of aluminum makes it possible to use structures made of it in such conditions where heavier frames, for example, made of metal-plastic or metal-wood, cannot be used due to their greater weight. This speaks in favor of such frames for installation on balconies - no additional reinforcement is required, which will save some amount.
Aluminum frames do not require painting and are easy to maintain.
The balcony, glazed with aluminum frames, receives good sound insulation.

Frameless glazing

Frameless glazing of balconies is rarely used, since it — more new technology, but already gaining popularity. Glazing can be made from ceiling to floor or installed on a parapet.

Frameless glazing not only visually expands the space of a small balcony room, but also perfectly protects it from dust and external noise. It is perfect for a room where it is planned to grow various plants - due to the absence of frames, they will receive sunlight in maximum volume.

Frameless glazing is characterized by the following qualities:

For this transparent fence of the balcony, tempered glass is used, which is 8 ÷ 10 times superior in shock resistance and strength, therefore it can withstand very high loads.
It is impossible to get hurt with such glass panels, since all their edges are rounded and sanded in a special way.
Such glazing is simply operation - construction is designed in such a way that it is easy to open and close, as each of the panels slides on a metal rail with rollers.
Glass railing practically does not take up space, while frames always “eat up” 50 ÷ 100 mm of area around the entire perimeter of an already small room. This is especially true for floor-to-ceiling glazing.
High sound insulation - noise absorption efficiency reaches 50–70%.

Glazing with roof device

The real problem is the balcony without a roof. Rain and snow, dust and leaves from trees - all this gathers on this small area. Such a balcony cannot be used functionally, you cannot relax on it, leave to dry your clothes, and in rainy weather you cannot even go out on it.

Therefore, the owner of the apartment has to solve the problem on his own by installing the roof and glazing the balcony.

Roofs above the balcony in a complex with glazing can be of two types:

Dependent roof is installed only when installing aluminum frames. It is attached to the block built of them and the wall of the house.

The advantages of this design include its reliability, ease and speed of installation at a fairly reasonable price.

The disadvantages of a dependent roof include the fact that it can be installed only over narrow balconies and loggias. When installed over wide annexes, the structure becomes unreliable and is unlikely to be able to withstand the snow load in winter.

The independent roof differs in that its installation is not associated with the glazing of the balcony. An individual metal or wooden frame is made, then there can be done roof without even planning further glazing.

The advantages of this roof are that it can be installed over a balcony of any width, the main thing is to correctly calculate the strength of the structure. In addition, if it is not possible to immediately install both the glazing and the roof, then you can first install the roof, and later - the balcony frames.

The construction of a roof above the balcony at a height is a rather dangerous undertaking, therefore it is recommended to entrust this work to professional masters. Moreover, you first need to carry out accurate calculations of the brackets and the entire frame so that the structure does not one day be blown off by the wind.

Window prices

Safety measures when working on the balcony

When planning your balcony glazing, always keep in mind the dangers of working at height. Not only do you need to protect your life or health - you must not allow threats to other people, for example, in the form of tools or building materials that have fallen from a height.

When performing work on the insulation and glazing of the balcony on your own, extreme caution is needed, especially in cases where any processes are performed from the outside. You should not take risks and fully rely on your strength and dexterity - you must definitely protect yourself with a safety belt. The belt is purchased industrial or sports, while the mount must withstand a load of 350 ÷ 400 kg, which must be indicated in the certificate. If such information is not available, then this product is not worth purchasing.

In addition, it is imperative to consult with a sales assistant who will clearly show you how to use this safety device.

Not worth it do work alone - you must definitely invite a partner who can, if necessary, insure - this should be taken into account for work outside the balcony, and when installing frames and double-glazed windows.
To keep your hands safe when working with glass and metal, be sure to use gloves made of durable material.

Balcony glazing stages

Unlike a loggia, where one of the sides is glazed, frames on the balcony have to be installed on three sides. The work is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to correctly expose each of the structural elements and make their reliable connection at the corners. Moreover, during installation, it must be borne in mind that only the end frames will be rigidly fixed to the wall.

The front part of the structure has the maximum size and weight, therefore it also differs in windage. It must be installed very carefully and immediately rigidly fixed not only to the balcony parapet, but also to the plate of the upper balcony (or to the visor).

Frame blocks can be purchased ready-made or ordered from the factory that manufactures them, indicating the exact dimensions of the balcony. Installation of ready-made blocks can be done independently if you carefully study the instructions.

Installation of frames

Before carrying out, it is necessary to make its glazing. The explanation is simple - you cannot create a risk of wetting insulation materials - they will simply lose their qualities.

The installation of frames is carried out according to the same principle, but the preparation of the base for them may differ. So, for example, frames can be installed on the base of the balcony, on the fence (parapet) or out of the perimeter.

Direct setting of frames - and with a small offset

Preparing to install a structure on a parapet

It is good if the parapet of the balcony is made of brick or concrete - in this case it will be easier to fix the frames on a fence sufficient in width. It is more difficult to solve this issue if the parapet is made of a metal corner and a rod.

In this option, it is desirable to do the preparatory work, slightly expanding the basis for the convenience of fixing frame structures. This can be the installation of an additional corner with a wider shelf. One side of it is placed outward, creating a kind of fence for the lower frame profile. In the same way, you can fix the corners at the top.

The corners are screwed with self-tapping screws with a step of 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b200 mm from each other to the upper part of the parapet.

Metal elements must be well coated with protective paint. It will not only reduce the influence of the external environment, but also give the structure a more aesthetic appearance.

Wider brackets, installed to expand the base for the frame structure, will also serve to secure the window sill inside the balcony.

Preparation for installing frames on the base of the balcony

In this option, you need to take into account the height to which it will be raised. For example, if it is planned to raise it by 100 mm, then a bar of the same size is fixed along the perimeter of the balcony. It will be easier to install glazing frames on such a base.

Frames can go panoramic from top to bottom

In the upper part of the balcony, metal corners, wooden blocks can be used to fix the frames, or the frames can be screwed to the ceiling using special brackets. If, however, it will also be insulated, then it will be necessary to include in the scheme mounting a bar that sets the thickness of the insulation layer.

Preparation of the parapet base for the installation of frames with an extension

When expanding the upper part of the balcony due to the removal of frames beyond its perimeter, you will have to build a more complex structure for their installation.

Installation is usually carried out using a metal corner, from which a kind of shelf is cooked.

If there is no welding machine or welding skills, then you can build such a structure from a metal profile, reinforcing it with a wooden bar, laying it in the profile cavity and fixing it on the parapet and the balcony floor.

Using only a profile, it is impossible to obtain sufficient rigidity of the structure, and if you install it only from a bar, then under the influence of the external environment, the frame with a tank is less durable.

Brackets installed outside the parapet should be made in the form of triangles - this will give the greatest rigidity to the frame.

Finished frame - bottom view

The upper, protruding part of the structure is also mounted from the corners, connecting them horizontally with the visor, and with vertical posts - with the lower part of the frame. It is best to additionally fix the corners on the load-bearing wall of the house to the height of the entire balcony and fasten them to the structure of the protruding part - this option will give the frame maximum reliability.

If aluminum frames are used for glazing, for which it is not necessary to install a common frame, then they can be fixed in the upper part using metal strips. They are screwed to the end side of the frame and to the upper balcony (to the roof).

Video: an example of a balcony glazing with a take-out

Expansion of the balcony

If the plans include an increase in the area of \u200b\u200bthe balcony, then the slab of its floor must be thoroughly strengthened, so that the main load from the entire structure is removed from it. The possibility of this action must be agreed with specialists, as this will require an accurate engineering calculation of whether the load-bearing wall of the house will withstand the additional load.

Expansion is carried out with the help of a metal structure, which will be attached to the wall of the building with a frame outside it for installing frames. A similar method will help increase the area at the base of the room by 200 ÷ 300 mm in width, and the window sill in the upper part taken out beyond the balcony - by 200 ÷ 250 mm.

Fastening frames

Fastening of frames (wooden or otherwise) is carried out according to the same principle - using special perforated metal strips and anchor screws.

Fastening the brackets to the frame - on a wooden ...

The fastening strips of the required length are screwed to the end sides of the top and bottom of the frame. Often they are used for mounting the sides of the frame. On each side, you will need two or three strips for fastening.

... or for metal-plastic

If necessary, wooden spacers and supports are installed between the frame and the wall, which will help to achieve the desired position.

Often, anchors are used to attach frames to the wall, for which the necessary holes are drilled. In this case, it is very important to choose an element of the required length, since it must enter the wall by at least 50 ÷ 60 mm.

Complex knots when mounting frames on balcony are the corners. To connect and fix them to each other, you can use several techniques:

Use a special corner profile that is built into the frame.

Install a 80 ÷ 100 mm metal corner at the corners, and fix the frames to it. Previously, the corner must be painted with a special protective paint.
Attach the frames to a wooden block masked with plastic panels on the outside and inside after installation.
It is easier to solve the issue with wooden frames - they are fastened together with corners or a wooden bar.

But here it should be noted that if the glazing is carried out along the entire perimeter of the room, it will not be warm, since it is impossible to create the necessary insulation at such corners of the connection.

After installing the frames, all gaps between the walls and frame profiles are filled with foam. If the gaps are very wide, in order to save money, you can first install fragments of polystyrene foam in some places of the gaps, and then apply polyurethane foam.

Glazing of frames

After the polyurethane foam has dried and the excess has been cut off, you can proceed to the installation of double-glazed windows in euro-frames or cut glass - into ordinary wooden structures.

When installing double-glazed windows in installed frames, it is very important to follow all the recommendations.

Before installing a double-glazed window, special spacers must be installed in the lower inner part of the frame pads-pads... They are also sometimes placed on the sides and top, between the frame and the glass unit.

Lay the gaskets so that they from from the teklopaket was distributed evenly along the entire length of the frame profile. One side of the gasket should protrude slightly beyond the perimeter of the glass unit. This must be done so that cracks do not form on the glass when the glazing beads are hammered. When driving it, the bead will select the final location of the lining by moving it the required (but not more) certain distance.

Further, on top of the gaskets, a double-glazed unit is carefully installed. For the convenience of its installation, professionals use special suction cups. They help to lift a rather heavy element without any problems and install it in the frame opening.

Having installed a double-glazed window, glazing beads are hammered with a wooden hammer. They should fit tightly into the gap provided for them and press the glass unit against the frame.

After the installation of double-glazed windows is completed, proceed to the installation of the window sill and insulation of the ceiling, floor and walls.

Wooden frame glazing

To glaze a wooden frame, you will need small nails, wooden glazing beads, a rubber trowel, putty or sealant, drying oil and a narrow brush.

When installing glass in a wooden frame on a balcony, one may encounter one inconsistency, which is considered a rule in this work. The beads used to fix the glass in the window opening must be nailed from the outside in order to protect the frame from moisture penetration, which is not always possible to reproduce in a balcony located above the first floor.

If the frames are small, the glazing can be done before the frame is installed on the parapet.

Provided that the wooden structure is massive, the glasses installed in advance will make it even heavier and lifting it will be not only problematic, but also dangerous. Therefore, the glass will have to be installed in the frame from the inside, and there is nothing to worry about if this process is carried out correctly.

The first thing to do before installing the glass is to treat all the window openings in the frames with linseed oil, applying it with a narrow brush. Then you need to wait until the composition is fed into the wood and dries up.

If the frames are painted with paint, then the next step is to apply paint on top of the drying oil on the frame openings, which should also dry well.

After that, putty is applied to the folds of the opening using a rubber spatula with a uniform layer, thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm. This will prevent water from entering between the glass and the frame.

Then the glass prepared to the size is installed in the frame opening, on a soft, not cured putty, and gently nestles against it.

Further, another layer of putty is applied on the inside of the glass, and a glazing bead is installed on it, which is very carefully nailed with nails. Carnations are installed vertically or horizontally on the glazing bead, since if they are hammered at an angle, the glass can easily be damaged.

You can do without putty by using a silicone tube in place of it, which is cut one side along the entire length and put on the edges of the glass.

Another option for installing glass in a frame is to fix it only on a putty, which is applied under the glass, and then on it with a sufficiently thick layer, and neatly leveled.

Sometimes they do without glazing beads - only with a layer of putty

From modern materials, a sealant is used to seal the gaps between the frame and the glass. Many are afraid that it will firmly adhere to the glass, and, if necessary, it will be difficult to remove it from the opening. To prevent this from happening, the glass is lubricated along the edge with soapy water or liquid soap, and then it is attached to the sealant and fixed with a glazing bead, which is also nailed down with carnations.

Following the recommendations and knowing some secrets, you can glaze the balcony yourself without any problems. At the same time, the greatest difficulty remains the factor of working at height - this is very important to take into account. If the skills of working with tools and building materials are completely absent, then it is recommended to entrust this process to professional masters. Moreover, today some companies producing euro-frames, when ordering their products, install them free of charge.

Video: the work of professionals in glazing and insulation of the balcony

The balcony is a multifunctional space in the apartment. Over the past couple of decades, it has evolved from a pantry for winter things, grandmother's compotes and obsolete items that the hand did not rise to throw out into a full-fledged part of the living space. Of course, this only applies to closed-type options. If it is still blown by all the winds and is regularly covered in knee-deep snowdrifts in winter, the situation will be saved by glazing the balcony with your own hands.

Kinds

The glazed balcony allows you to competently optimize additional square meters in the apartment, turning it into a study, a mini-dining room, a dressing room, a sports ground, a workshop for creative family members. You can set up a winter garden in it or equip an area for your favorite pet.

It is quite possible to perform glazing on your own, but you need to take into account some of the nuances of the work.

Firstly, it is important to figure out what is the difference between a balcony and a loggia.Many apartment owners confuse these concepts, but meanwhile the types of glazing of the loggia differ from the types of glazing of the balcony. The glazing of the loggia is easier, since it is bounded on both sides by walls - it is located "inside" the living space. A balcony is a structure protruding from the wall of the building's facade. It "hangs" above the ground and is taken out of the main square.

Secondly, you need to decide on the method of glazing - cold or warm.

The cold one consists of a single layer of glass and a lightweight frame. This method provides relative sound insulation, protects the room from dust, wind and sunlight if the glass is covered with a UV filter, but does not keep heat. It is suitable for arranging a summer kitchen on the balcony, a temporary bedroom or study, and in winter - for storing food in the cold.

Warm glazing assumes a more complex, heavy and reliable structure. And more expensive. It consists of window frames with double seals and double-glazed windows, which provide the ability to maintain room temperature on the balcony at any time of the year and use it in a convenient quality.

Installation of warm windows requires more time and strict adherence to the conditions:

Good thermal insulation and waterproofing. The ingress of condensation between the glasses is unacceptable, they will fog up and retain heat worse.
The ability to provide natural ventilation of the room.
The presence of an air circulation system between the balcony and the room.

Thirdly, it is necessary to study the legal side of the issue, when planning to make changes to the design of the premises. The balcony slab is designed for a specific load. Exceeding the permissible weight can lead to its collapse, and this is fraught with negative consequences.

These days, getting expert advice and permission to improve such a plan that were not foreseen during the construction of a house is quite easy. It is easier to spend a little time studying the Housing Code before starting work than solving problems afterwards.

Popular types of glazing

The most common ways to protect a balcony from rain, wind, stratification of street dust, frost and visits of feathered guests are: sliding glazing, panoramic, with a carry-over, on a supporting frame.

Each type of glazing has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Simple (classic) glazing with a wooden frame and single panes refers to the cold method and is installed mainly in Soviet-style apartments. It protects from moisture, noise and street dirt, but does not differ in particular aesthetics and great possibilities.

Sliding

The design is equipped with a special roller mechanism that allows you to easily move the sash and takes up a minimum of space. The mechanism works on the principle of guide rails: the sashes slide one after the other.

This type is not suitable for every balcony, specialist advice is required, however, for small balconies this is the best option. It does not take up half an extra centimeter, saves space, protects against insects, dirt and precipitation.

On the negative side, roller mechanisms may not withstand the harsh conditions of the Russian climate in the winter season. If they freeze, it will be impossible to open the windows. The design implies a single glass, so it will be cold in the room at subzero temperatures.

Panorama

This type of glazing implies the absence of any frame. Along the top and bottom guides with grooves are installed, into which glasses are inserted (using special fasteners). Glass railing occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling, offering beautiful views from the balcony at any time of the year. In this case, the sections are glazed in various ways: sliding, swing, folding.

For panoramic glazing, glass of special strength is used, with a special coating to neutralize thermal radiation. It looks good and can provide maximum noise isolation. Has a number of disadvantages:

At high temperatures, glass heats up and heats up the room. During installation, blinds must be provided. In the cold season, it retains heat poorly.
The surface requires frequent washing, since dust is clearly visible on it, water streaks are visible after rain.
The structure as a whole is significantly heavier and more expensive than any other material.
Installation is risky and requires high professionalism, so it cannot be done independently.

With take away

The essence of the method is that steel profiles are welded to the balcony parapet, on which a wide window sill is fixed. It is the base that holds the aluminum or plastic structure for the balcony glazing. Such glazing is suitable for narrow and small balconies with a solid parapet.

Modified balconies look beautiful (especially if a greenhouse is placed in them), expand the space practically and visually, and have a functional wide window sill.

The disadvantages include the fact that the own weight of plastic structures is quite large. It is necessary to correctly assess the current operational state of the slab and parapet. Aluminum frames are lighter, but they keep heat worse. It will be cold on such a balcony in winter.

With supporting frame

The most difficult method, which involves serious changes in the appearance of the outer side of the balcony and requires a lot of time and several pairs of working hands. At the same time, it is the best, since it allows you to glaze a completely open balcony, which does not even have a visor, and turn it into a warm living space for the next 15-20 years.

This Soviet-style glazing is popular - despite its laboriousness and high weight. Its advantages:

A welded steel frame is cheaper than other materials. Moreover, it is more durable and wear resistant.
Ordinary bathroom enamel is suitable as a paint coating. It gives a beautiful lasting color, shine, reliable protection against corrosion, and costs much less than PVC.
Possibility to install a visor. This will not only turn the balcony into a living space, but also allow you to distribute the load along the upper floor and less load the balcony slab.
Can be replaced with a parapet frame. It is easier to install the frame, it costs less, and in appearance is not inferior to a panoramic balcony in an elite house.
The frame can be easily insulated with plasterboard and foam.
Any type of window can be inserted - from traditional wood to solid glass.
Due to the strength of the frame, only the wind load falls on the glass, so they can be made of any width.
The problem of the old parapet does not matter. It can be removed and the base frame can be made lower or higher than the previous level.

Materials

The balcony glazing system is represented by a set of casements for windows, a window sill, heat-insulating material (most often it is foam), external ebbs and interior decoration.

The choice of material directly depends on the purpose of the balcony room and determines the final cost of the changes made. If the balcony is used as a place for drying clothes and storing preservatives, it makes sense to give preference to budget materials: lightweight aluminum or duralumin frames and single glass. Such a balcony will not be insulated, and the difference with the subzero temperature outside will be no more than 6-7 degrees.

If you plan to arrange an office on the balcony, a playroom for children or a place for receiving guests, you should choose more reliable and expensive materials. This will be "full" or "insulating" glazing, which will allow the balcony to be used as a living space at any time of the year, or to combine it with the room by dismantling the wall between it and the balcony.

Plastic frames

They are convenient in that they do not require additional efforts to insulate the balcony. In the case of a low-budget renovation, simple light PVC frames and single glass, massive windows with double-glazed windows are suitable. For better tightness, you can foam the cracks.

The choice of the type of double-glazed windows determines the ultimate goal of the repair. With any technical characteristics that meet the requirements, the basis of windows of this type will be a frame-profile made of polyvinyl chloride. The kit includes all the necessary fittings, as well as a single-layer or multi-layer sealed glass unit.

The frame (static element) is mounted in the window opening, and the "filling" can be chosen at your discretion: in which direction the sash will open, whether there will be a window with an impost (transverse slats along a horizontal or vertical line), what will be the strips on which the glass unit is attached what glass the windows will be made of.

The most common material for the production of insulating glass is four-, five- or six-millimeter glass. A separate group should be allocated "triplex" - double glass with a layer of transparent tape.

A double-glazed window can be single-chamber or double-chamber - depending on the number and parameters of the cameras.

The PVC frame from the inside also consists of a number of bridging compartments (stiffening ribs). Their purpose is to create air-filled segments in the profile cavity. The more compartments, the higher the heat resistance.

The number, volumes and placement of air segments within the profile are strictly defined, since some of them are necessary to ensure rigidity, some provide water outflow, and some are needed to fix fittings.

The level of thermal protection directly depends on the thickness of the glass unit and the distance between them. The warmest will be the balcony, which is glazed with double-glazed windows of different thicknesses and at different widths from each other. An important role is played by seals, which are laid along the edge of the glass unit.

As for glass, its properties can be different:

reflective reflects the sun's rays;
reinforced - fire resistant;
hardened - shockproof;
colored absorbs solar energy;
laminated provides excellent sound insulation (another feature of "triplex" is that it does not break into fragments with a strong impact, but cracks and remains inside the film).

Wooden frames

Their appearance has undergone significant changes over the past few decades, but the trend towards installing wooden frames continues to grow. They have a small number of advantages when compared with the same PVC profile: beautiful, natural, environmentally friendly. However, there are not very many disadvantages either - they require high-quality installation and good care. The tree must be treated with special protective solutions and paints, otherwise it will quickly lose its appearance, begin to rot and crumble.

Any glass can be inserted into wooden frames. A cold single without a sealant will make the balcony beautiful, but unsuitable for use in the winter season. Expensive insulated double-glazed windows with a seal will solve two problems at once - both aesthetically and practically.

Stained glass or pseudo-stained glass looks beautiful in wooden frames. You can order it from the master or do it yourself. This can be done using a printed stencil and ordinary acrylic paints on glass. If you don't have the time or desire to be creative, you can purchase a ready-made film stained glass window on any topic in the store.

Aluminum frames

Aluminum profile is the most current option for balcony glazing. This is due to the fact that in most old houses the condition of the balcony slab and parapet leaves much to be desired. It is not very safe to install a heavy steel frame on them, and aluminum is light enough and does not give such a load on weak floors.

Convenient aluminum profile on small balconies. It allows you to save or even expand the space by several tens of centimeters (due to the frame with an extension). Frames made of this material look aesthetically pleasing, they are quite durable. If you paint them with protective enamel, the service life will increase significantly.

The most important advantage is that it lets in much more light into the room than a profile made of wood or plastic. And this is especially important if the balcony is used as an additional living space, and not a second storage room.

Precautions

Getting started, first of all, you need to think about how to minimize the risk of injury, your own and passers-by below. A miniature home-style coffee shop in the spirit of Montmartre is, of course, good, but safety is paramount. First of all, it is provided by a safety belt. The most reliable is considered to be an industrial one, but a high-quality sports one is quite suitable for one-time work.

When choosing a belt, you need to pay attention to the length of the safety halyard (cable). It should be neither too short, so as not to impede work, nor too long, so that a traumatic jerk does not occur when falling. The optimal length is 2.5 meters.

It is also necessary to take into account the information on the product certificate. The harness and carabiner must withstand a load of up to 400 kg. You should not purchase a product without specifying this information and non-certified products.

At the time of repair work, the safety halyard is fixed with an anchor rod with a metal collet. The collet must be firmly mounted in the main wall (at least 15 centimeters deep), and screw the pin into it until it stops - using a screwdriver or pry bar.

“With your own hands” does not mean alone. The glass is not only fragile, but also quite heavy, therefore it is recommended to perform independent glazing of the balcony with at least one partner.

When your own safety is assured, it's time to take care of others. It is unlikely that compensation for damage caused to health from a mount that fell on a neighbor's head is included in the estimate for repairing the balcony. The area below should be protected with bright construction tape. It is worth warning neighbors from the upper and lower floors about the planned work.

Training

Balcony glazing requires a careful approach. Preparation for repair work is carried out in stages:

Cleaning. First of all, you need to take things out of the balcony, remove the blinds (if they have been installed), remove everything that may interfere with the work.
Assessment of the operational state. When the balcony is not cluttered, it must be carefully examined from the inside and outside - for damage, decay, broken concrete, cracks, rot. If the condition of the slab and parapet is satisfactory, you can proceed to the next stage.
Elimination of defects. During the inspection of the balcony, problems may be revealed that were made during the construction of the house. Before installing the profile and glazing, it is recommended to level out any irregularities and bevels that may hinder work.
Security.

How to glaze with a wooden structure: step by step instructions

Self-glazing of a balcony with a wooden structure implies a sequence of steps:

Surface preparation for work. When the balcony is cleaned, inspected and tidied up, it's time to get rid of all internal and external coatings. Then you need to remove accumulations of dust and other contaminants.
Measurements. The accuracy of measurements of window openings determines how well the frame will fit to the base, so it is important to be extremely careful and double-check the resulting values.
Installation of a wooden "box". The "box" consists of wooden beams that form the base for the frame. It is fixed at the level of the existing balcony railings and the upper beam. Side rails are mounted to the left and right wall surfaces. All bars are secured with metal staples.
Installation of battens for interior decoration of the balcony. If this step is provided for in the repair, it is carried out until the very glazing of the balcony. When the surface of the walls, floor and ceiling is sheathed with panels or clapboard, you can start installing windows.
Installation of frames. Before starting glazing, the glass must be inserted into the frames and fixed. They are made to order (according to individual sizes), purchased ready-made or made independently - from profiled wooden beams with grooves.

Glasses are inserted into these grooves, pressed with slats and fixed with nails on three sides.

Treatment of cracks with insulating materials. Even with the most careful preparation, it is impossible to assemble frames without any gaps, like a good designer. There will definitely be gaps that need to be treated with tow or polyurethane foam.
Installation of platbands. It is carried out after thermal insulation, in no case before.
Treatment of wooden frames with protective agents. Moisture protection is applied in 5-6 layers. The frame can then be repaired, painted, or left clean.

Installation of metal-plastic

The most accessible type of glazing without the help of a master. During the installation and installation process, you will need: a drill, screwdrivers, a hammer, a spatula, a knife, self-tapping screws, foam.

Algorithm of actions step by step:

Rack blank. 10-15 fragments with an area of \u200b\u200b4 x 4 cm, which are needed to align the parapet line and correctly align the windows along the horizon.
Removing the glass unit from the frame. The manufacturer delivers a one-piece structure made of PVC and double-glazed windows, but before starting the installation of the frame, the glass must be removed, otherwise the frame will be heavy.

The double-glazed windows should be removed carefully, placing them in a row against the wall. For reliability, it can be moved with a soft cloth or thin foam rubber.

Removing sashes from window hinges.
Installation of the support profile. This is an obligatory element of the kit, necessary for the convenience of installing a window sill. It is only 20 mm high and cannot be installed without a stand profile.

To install the profile, you need to turn the frame 180 degrees, insert it into the groove, and fix it on the underside of the frame with a wooden (not steel) hammer.

Installation of frame mounts. Departing from each edge of the frame by 15 cm, fix the plates on the top panel - using a hammer and self-tapping screws with a length of 3 cm.
Installation of windows. The most difficult moment at this stage is to fix the frames on the parapet. It is necessary to do this with assistants so that the frame does not "look" beyond the perimeter. It is important to take into account that self-tapping screws are not driven into the dowel, but screwed in.

After fixing the upper level, the frame will be held securely enough. Then you can fix the rest of the sides by connecting them with self-tapping screws at a distance of about 6 cm.

The connected frames are leveled using a level and a plumb line.

Processing cracks and gaps from the outside.
Window sill installation.
Installation of slopes and ebb tides. At the same stage, the window perimeter and joints are processed with silicone.
Installation of double-glazed windows according to the instructions.
Hanging sashes.

How to glaze a balcony with sliding windows, see the following video:

Frameless way

Aesthetic frameless glazing is chosen when it is necessary to let in a maximum of sunlight into the room. It is a sliding system made of impact-resistant glass (transparent, tinted or stained glass). There are no frames and partitions, and the glass at the top and bottom is attached to the metal rails.

A fixing tape is placed on the lower profile under the outer sash, which is needed so that the opened sashes do not come into contact with each other.

Such a balcony can hardly be warm, because it will not work to fit the glass to each other without gaps. The only way to reduce gaps is with acrylic glass gaskets. They are included in the kit and are designed to be slipped over the edges of glass like covers.

The system is equipped with rubber seals, which are laid from the outside - between the sashes and the aluminum profile. They are necessary in case of sleet and rain.

The system seems light enough, but at the same time it is very durable (due to thick glass) and perfectly protects from precipitation, wind, noise. The thickness of the glass is chosen according to the height of the balcony. At a height of over 200 cm, a thickness of at least 8 mm is required, at a height of less than 2 m, 6 cm is sufficient.The width of the flaps varies between 60-80 cm.

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