How to make slopes on windows with plaster with your own hands. Slope plaster - the basis for high-quality framing of windows and doors Improved door slope plaster

Not all firms specializing in the installation of plastic windows include the installation of slopes in the list of their services. Very often, for these purposes, people additionally turn to the masters for help, who sometimes require a fairly high fee for this work.

However, with the appropriate tools and some construction skills, it is quite possible to handle the installation of slopes with your own hands. One of the effective methods of giving the slopes an attractive appearance is their plastering. Therefore, further it will be considered how to do the plastering of window slopes with your own hands.

Tools and materials for work

If you decide to replace old windows with more modern structures, their installation should be completed with a beautiful frame of the slopes. To do this, you can use not only the plastering technology, the sections of the walls adjacent to the window can also be finished with plasterboard, siding or special panels that come with the window.

However, plaster allows you to decorate the room to your liking, without reference to the color and texture of plastic or wood panels. Plastering technology allows you to use different geometry, with which you can visually enlarge the boundaries of the room, make it lighter and more comfortable.

Before starting work, you need to worry about the availability of some tools and materials. To yourself, you need to cook:

Figure 1. Principle of work with a bevel: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel when plastering; 5 - box; 6 - malka.

• a drill with a special nozzle for mixing the solution;
• a trowel for applying the solution;
• a set of spatulas;
• square with a movable rail for measuring the bevel angle;
• level and plumb line;
• rule;
• malka;
• hammer;
• grater;
• container for mixing the solution;
• plaster;
• plaster mix;
• assembly tape;
• polyurethane foam;
• edged boards;
• nails.

Before applying the solution, it is necessary to make a special device - a bean. It is a wooden lath about 35 mm wide and 20-25 mm thick. In this case, the length of this device should be equal to the width of the slope along the hypotenuse of the triangle, which is formed by the window opening and the box.

A rectangular cutout is made on one side of the mala. With one end with a cutout, the bead is installed on the box, and the other on a rail or a rule attached to the outer edge of the slope. Figure 1 shows the principle of working with a small, where: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel when plastering; 5 - box; 6 - malka.

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Preparatory work

The most important preparatory procedure before the design of the slopes is the high-quality installation of windows. If the window structure is exposed even with a slight deviation from a strictly vertical position, then no slope can correct such a defect. In this case, the installation of the window will have to be carried out anew, that is, it will be necessary to remove the glass unit and dismantle the window frame.

After installing the window, it is necessary to install the window sill. In this case, it is imperative to adhere to its strict horizontal position. To check the horizontalness of the window sill, you can pour a little ordinary water on it and see if it spreads in any direction.

Before making the slopes, you need to inspect the gaps between the window frame and the wall, and also check the tightness of all seams. To seal the cracks, you can use polyurethane foam. After it hardens, you need to cut off all the excess. All work should be carried out very carefully, because it is much easier to get a flat surface with the presence of small depressions as a result, than to build up a slope with plaster to the level of the bumps formed with a poor cut of the polyurethane foam.

Preparatory work also includes protecting the window frame. On installed PVC windows, protective films with markings usually remain. If it covers the entire surface of the frame, then nothing else needs to be done to protect it. Otherwise, you will need to process the skipped sections of the frame with mounting tape. Additionally, it is recommended to secure the window sill. To do this, you can use thick plastic wrap or plain paper, which can be attached to the windowsill with tape.

After that, you need to remove the old layer of plaster. To facilitate this task, you can use a hammer drill or a conventional wide-edged chisel. In some cases, the finishing of the slope is carried out on top of the old layer of plaster. In this case, only the whitewash needs to be removed. At the final stage of the preparatory work, the slopes and adjacent surfaces are cleaned from dirt and dust, since the final result will depend on the cleanliness.

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Window slope plastering technology

For plastering internal slopes, dry gypsum plaster can be used. This mixture is quick-drying. It is better to mix it with a construction mixer. Such a solution can be applied in a thicker layer than cement-sand plaster, which is the determining factor if it is necessary to putty deep potholes in old slopes.

Sand is added to the cement mixture in a ratio of 1: 2, if it is necessary to apply a layer of plaster of more than 30 mm. External window slopes are treated with a cement mixture or a facade starting putty with the addition of water-repellent agents.

At the first stage of plastering, a beacon is installed in the inner corner of the slope (near the window itself): a metal profile of the required length is mounted on the mortar.

To limit the outer corner, a wooden rail or rule is installed, which is pressed against the edge of the wall adjacent to the slope. From the side of the wall, it can be secured with clamps, dowels or self-tapping screws. The verticality of such a structure must be checked using a building level. In the same way, the upper slope is prepared, from which plastering begins.

Slope plaster is applied in 3 layers: a thin spray, a base primer and a finishing layer, the thickness of which should not exceed 2 mm. After the main plaster is sketched, it is pulled together from the bottom up with a rule or a trowel. After a certain time, when the plaster dries up a little, the rule is removed, and the remaining areas are sealed with a solution. After that, the corners are processed.

Plastering of the corners is done after the slopes and walls are completely dry. Corner processing is performed with the same plaster mortar using a trowel or a trowel. At the same time, in the corners, the mixture is leveled with smooth movements from bottom to top and to the sides.

The plaster layer near the corner should form a flat surface with the wall.

After the installation of windows or doors, plastering of the slopes is a mandatory step. Its task is to give them a neat, finished look, to prepare them for subsequent operation. Plastering is a traditional finishing method using cement or plaster mortars. It allows you to eliminate damage to the walls resulting from installation.

• improve heat and sound insulation;
• protect the premises from external factors;
• give an aesthetic look.

Plastering is a laborious process that requires certain skills from the person performing it. You also need to stock up on a set of tools. It includes a level, tape measure, ruler, usually a half-trowel or ironer. To prepare the solution, use a dry mixture. Rails, perforated corners, profiles will help to achieve the desired layer thickness. If the plaster layer is more than 30 mm, then a reinforcing mesh is used. It is best to use a 50 x 50 mm steel mesh, securing it with dowel-nails.

Preparation for work

More and more apartment and house owners strive to replace old wooden windows with new ones. But as a result of the installation of window blocks, the integrity of the slopes is violated, cracks and damage appear. Before plastering, it becomes necessary to perform a number of preparatory work.

Upon completion of the installation of the window block, it is required to cut off the excess of polyurethane foam so that it does not go beyond the plane of the window. It should be noted that polyurethane foam used for sealing, crevices is a vapor-permeable material. To prevent it from becoming a source of condensation, it is necessary to insulate it with acrylic sealant or vapor barrier film. A sealant is applied to the foam located inside the room with a thin layer and allowed to dry well. After that, you can move on.

Plastering the slopes of windows is a dirty job, accompanied by dust. Therefore, it is recommended to cover the radiator and part of the window block with cardboard or plastic wrap. The most difficult thing will be to clean the fittings, so they close it especially carefully.

The surface of the slope must be cleaned of debris and dust. To remove particles of old plaster, mortar, weak areas, they are passed along the slope with a stiff brush. The final stage is priming, a means of deep penetration.

Plastering of slopes is traditionally performed with a sand-cement or gypsum mixture. The stores offer different types, the choice is up to the customer. For finishing external slopes, it is recommended to give preference to a cement mortar with a ratio of 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand. The sand should not contain clay impurities; it is better to use river washed sand.

The gypsum mix does not tolerate high humidity, which is typical for areas near a window. It is well suited for interior decoration: it dries quickly, acquiring a beautiful white color. The ideal option for plastering internal surfaces is a cement-sand mixture with a small addition of alabaster, which will speed up the setting.

Slope angle

It is necessary to pay attention to the position of the inner slopes in relation to the plane of the window. This angle is greater than 90 degrees. This arrangement improves the efficiency of light passing through the opening. The deviation is usually 5-6 degrees, but it can be more. It all depends on the thickness of the walls and the design solution. The lower, upper and outer slopes can be made at right angles.

You will need a pencil and ruler to form the corner. First, calculate the distance at which the edge of the slope should be located. The calculation is based on the fact that for every 10 cm of the slope from the edge of the window block, you need to retreat 1 cm. The resulting value is laid on the windowsill.

Often, the nearest edge does not fall on this line. This means that you will need to make the layer thicker. To set its thickness, wooden slats are stuffed on the inside of the slope. Then a beacon profile is installed on the solution, setting it in level and setting the required angle.

When creating door slopes, the angle can be exactly 90 degrees. Therefore, no special preparations are required.

Application of the solution

Do-it-yourself plastering of slopes is most often done in a common way "under the rule". It is good in that it allows you to return a neat appearance to the slopes, regardless of whether major repairs were carried out or just replacement of windows.

To align the plane of the slope, a beacon is installed in the corner. First, a solution is thrown into the recess, then I press the beacon into it, controlling the depth according to the level. The rule will help to limit the outer corner. It is installed vertically, making a protrusion towards the window at the distance that is required to form the thickness of the slope. Then they are fixed with dowels or self-tapping screws. You can use a metal profile by leveling it and securing it. The upper slope is also prepared.

Before applying the mortar, you need to make sure that all the elements are positioned correctly. Plaster is performed in three layers: spray, soil, cover. The application of the mortar begins from the upper slope, moving from its edge to the window. It is recommended to install a reinforcing mesh on the upper slope. The solution is applied to it by pressing and simultaneously gluing the mesh to the base.

A liquid solution is used for spraying. Its task is to create a solid base for the base layer and bond it tightly to the wall. The main layer - the soil - is carried out with a solution, the density of which is similar to the density of good sour cream. It is thrown onto the spray and given time to grab. Then the excess solution is removed, moving from the bottom up, with a scraper or rule.

After finishing the application of the primer, it is given time to dry out. Carefully remove the rule, shifting it not towards themselves, but to the side. The remaining areas are rubbed with a solution, the corners are plastered. You can proceed to them after the layer on the slope itself has dried. To do this, use the same solution, applying it with a trowel or trowel on a pre-moistened surface. The leveling of the mixture is carried out from the bottom up and to the sides, creating a single surface. The dried plaster is primed, putty, using it instead of a cover.

Plastering external slopes is performed in the same way, and even a little easier. Usually the outside is much less damaged than the inside. Therefore, first they check the quality of sealing the cracks, cut off the foam. After moistening it, cover the slope with a layer of plaster. The staining finishes the work.

Slope putty

The task of the putty is to eliminate small scratches and cracks. Before puttingtying, the surface must be primed. The first layer is performed with a starting mixture. It contains larger particles that will fill in the irregularities. After drying, it is sanded, primed again.

Finish the putty with a finishing mixture. It will create a perfectly even and smooth coating, which can be wallpapered or painted after grouting with sanding paper and applying primer.

How long does it take for the plaster to dry?

This is far from an idle question, since it depends on how quickly you can proceed to the final finishing. The easiest way to calculate the drying rate takes into account that 1 mm of plaster layer will dry for 1 day. This formula does not work for gypsum plaster. If an ideal temperature and humidity regime is created, then take 2 mm per day. The ideal conditions include the conditions under which the temperature is maintained within 10-25 degrees, and the humidity is up to 8%.

Do not accelerate drying artificially by increasing heating or ventilation. This will definitely lead to cracking of the surface. High humidity and low temperatures slow down drying. Therefore, in rainy weather and a frosty day, it is better not to open the windows. Moderate ventilation won't hurt, though.

The drying time of the outer layer of the plaster does not differ much from the inner one. For a cement-sand mixture, it will take almost a month to completely dry. A reasonable question arises, how, then, to maintain the interval between the application of several layers? The answer is quite simple: there is no need to wait until it is completely dry before the next coat. It is enough to wait a day, and you can continue to work.

It is difficult to tell the exact drying time. Visually, you can navigate by several indicators:

• wet spots begin to fade;
• the surface of the wall brightens.

Of course, you should pay attention to the standards specified by the manufacturer. They can be found on the packaging of the mixture.

The technology for plastering window slopes is not so complicated, everything can be done with your own hands and then the price will not be high. Today we will tell you how to plaster window slopes in different versions. You can also watch the video in this article and photos that will help you do everything quickly and efficiently.

Plastering of window slopes is done in several stages. They are all important and should not be overlooked. For work, purchase only high-quality material. It is not worth saving on this. Plastering the window slopes of the video will help in this matter. All work is done in the following order:

We select the tool

Here is a list of tools and accessories that you will need for high-quality slope processing:

1. Rotary hammer (can be replaced with a hammer drill)
2. Adapter from SDS + to ½ ”and drill chuck, this is needed to stir the mixture. It will help to get a uniform texture, avoid the formation of unnecessary lumps in the mixture.
3. Hammer
4. Drills for a hammer drill (the most running diameter is 6 mm, but you can take any others)
5. Plastic dowels (suitable size)
6. Self-tapping screws for woodworking
7. Screwdriver (preferably Phillips type)
8. Bubble level 2m
9. Aluminum rules of the desired length
10. Spatula blade (the best option is 14 - 16)
11. An ironing spatula, this is an important element, please note that without it, at some stages, something may not work
12. Large capacity (you can take a bucket)
13. Mixer attachment
14. Acrylic based primer, it is possible to use "betokontakt"
15. Roller roller with container or large brush (you can take a wide paint brush)
16. Cotton gloves for skin protection
17. Stencil (template)
18. Gon

Weight of a bag of plaster Kg

Prepare the surface

The technology of plastering window slopes begins with the preparation of the base plane. This is important, since the quality of the work as a whole will depend on this, as well as the durability of the structure, therefore it can take a lot of time to perform high-quality preparation, but these costs are quite justified

So:

• It is recommended to install the window sill before you start plastering work. This will avoid the formation of cracks and gaps between the window and the sill, the formation of mechanical damage, and will also strengthen the structure.
• Plaster for window slopes can be from any building mixture. The main thing when kneading is to monitor its uniformity. For mixing, it is better to use a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle.

Attention: It is best to protect the surface of the windowsill from damage, because there is a high probability that a caustic solution will get on it, and, as a result, damage that can hardly be repaired, so you need to take care of protection in advance: cover the surface with polyethylene, put sheets of paper, and so on. ...

• If there are traces of old plaster on the rim of the window opening, they must be removed (see How to remove old plaster from walls without problems), because the new layer should lie on a perfectly smooth surface that does not have irregularities
• It is preferable to cover the glass surface of the window with a protective sheet. If you are doing the plaster in one step, you can simply glue it on with pieces of tape. Remember to wrap pens and other items, if any, with paper or tape
• After the surface has been cleaned, it is recommended to cut off excess pieces of foam with a knife.
• To improve the contact of the solution with the surface, the surface should be leveled with a primer.
• Perform the steam isolation procedure. On the inside, the foam must be fixed with a special film of the appropriate type, or a layer of frost-resistant liquid - sealant must be applied.

High-quality finishing of the slopes after the installation of the window structure is an important stage in the final work, the result of which depends on the aesthetics of the house from the inside and outside. How to plaster the slopes on the windows and do the work at the proper level, we will tell you below.

Advantages of the plastering method

Plastering window slopes does not lose its relevance along with traditional methods, which involve the use of plastic, wood or drywall panels. Knowing how to make slopes, you can save a lot on construction work. The method has a number of significant advantages:

• low material price;
• strength and stability;
• long service life.

The plastering method of finishing slopes significantly saves money

Do-it-yourself plastering of window slopes is another big plus of the method that allows even a beginner to cope with the work, since the technology is simple to execute. In addition to the advantages, it is worth mentioning the disadvantages of plastering:

• average thermal insulation;
• the risk of mold and moisture formation;
• the appearance of cracks over time.

The method is suitable for houses where both wooden windows and plastic double-glazed windows are installed.

Plaster mortar

Plastering of external and internal slopes is carried out with self-made mixtures or ready-made store options. It is advisable to purchase already prepared options, where the correct proportions are observed and there is no need to measure the number of components for the mixture made.

Plastering on slopes of our own preparation will require the presence of binders in the composition, which are often: clay, cement or gypsum filler. Depending on the number of constituents, the solution can be simple or complex in composition. It is very important to add the exact amount of components in order to obtain a quality mixture, otherwise the solution may turn out to be greasy and quickly crack after drying. A solution that is too poor in composition will also not bring anything good: it will turn out to be fragile, as a result of which the slopes will need to be repaired after installation.

Self-production of the plaster mix requires precise proportions.

In order not to be mistaken in the consistency of the future mixture, be guided by the following signs:

• a well-mixed composition will lightly cling to the shoulder blade;
• poorly mixed (fatty) will cling strongly;
• a lean mixture does not exhibit adhesion properties at all.

For the preparation of the mixture, slaked lime can be used, which, in the correct proportions, is ideal for wood and stone substrates. You can only use the slaked version, otherwise the surface may be swollen... You can buy a component at a hardware store. You can independently perform lime slaking in this way:

Slaked lime is often used when plastering slopes

• We pour lime of quick slaking into a container of the required size and fill it with water so that the lime is completely covered with liquid. An active evolution of vapors begins for several minutes, after which we add a little more water and mix the mixture thoroughly.
• Lime of medium slaking is poured in an amount of ¼ of the container and filled with water to half the volume. Vapors begin to stand out after 30 minutes, at the end we dilute with water and stir.
• Slow quenching lime is not poured with water, but only moistened. The quenching process takes more than 60 minutes.

You can also use gypsum, but you should take into account the efficiency of the work, since the mixture with this substance dries up within 5-10 minutes. It is important to take into account that gypsum mortar is not resistant to a humid environment, therefore it is advisable to use it for interior work in dry rooms. One of the durable materials is cement, which adheres to the surface within 15 minutes and dries completely in a day.

When choosing how to plaster the slopes on the windows inside and on the outside, pay attention to the strength properties of the composite components so that the slopes will last for a long time.

Preparing the work surface

How to properly plaster the slopes on the windows and get an excellent result depends on good surface preparation. A minor violation of an important stage will be the main cause of cracked or fallen plaster. So:

Construction beacons are used to level the surface of the slopes.

To properly plaster the slopes on the windows with your own hands, take into account all the preparatory stages to achieve high quality work. To accurately level the surface, use construction beacons or a plaster profile... Visually even walls can play a cruel joke at the end of all work, so be sure to install guides along which the surface will be leveling. The lighthouses will serve as a guarantee as a leveling element, the use of which will avoid alterations and additional costs in the future.

Lighthouse plaster

Tools for plastering windows

The main points about how to plaster the slopes on the windows have already been announced and it's time to talk about the fixtures. In order to achieve excellent results, you cannot do without a set of tools and related equipment. In work you will need:

• laser level to set the profile (beacons);
• foam if the window gaps are poorly sealed during installation;
• building goat or small stepladder;
• thick rubber gloves to protect against solutions;
• a grater and a half-grater for cement mortar;
• silicone sealant and sharp knife;
• black pencil, tape measure;
• spatula and trowel.

Apply the plaster layer with a spatula

Let's go to practice

Do-it-yourself plastering of window slopes begins from the inside. First, the lower and lateral sides are made, then they move to the upper slope.

1. Part of the solution must be diluted thinner and distributed over the areas of the window opening. This step will promote good adhesion of the surface to the plaster. The mixture is taken with a spatula and laid out along the openings. It is important that it does not flow, but sticks to the surface.
2. Let the first layer dry.
3. We set the angular profile using the level.
4. We continue to lay the layers on the slopes, not forgetting to monitor the leveling of the surface.
5. As the mortar dries completely, you need to correct the corners.
6. We do the grout with a grater.
7. Apply a layer of primer.
8. We turn to the finish, which can be decorative plaster or tile.

Finished slopes are finished with decorative plaster

After the installation of plastic windows, the following items are added to the standard technology:

• on the plastered slope, using a spatula, make a 5 mm furrow;
• in the made rut we lay a layer of silicone, which will not allow cracks to form in those places where the window connects to the slope.

The rest of the plastering of the slopes of plastic windows occurs according to the above technology. If a gypsum mixture was used in the work, then at the final stage it is necessary to dismantle the elements of the window slats by bending.

External slopes are plastering after finishing the internal

Then you can move on to the plaster of the external slopes of the windows. If you follow the basic rules and knowledge of how to plaster the slopes on the windows, you can significantly improve the thermal insulation in the house and give it a beautiful look.

After replacing window frames, many faced the problem of finding a responsible master for plastering the slopes. Most workers, if they are ready to do this work, often do it poorly, while demanding unreasonably high wages. You should be aware that in case of improper finishing, windows lose their heat and sound insulation properties. Moreover, the appearance of harmful fungal organisms that can negatively affect human health is guaranteed. You can do the plastering of the slopes with your own hands, we will tell you how to do this in the article.

General requirements

Slopes on windows should not only have a beautiful appearance, but also meet a number of requirements

Slope - a cut of the wall (by its thickness), which is adjacent to the window frame. A quality slope has the following characteristics:

• good moisture and vapor permeability of the surface, which will make it possible to ensure high quality of the assembly seam, subject to compliance with the requirements of GOST;
• increased resistance to delamination during wet cleaning or cleaning;
• resistance to mechanical and external influences (temperature drop, sunlight);
• high thermal insulation properties.

Slopes on windows can be oblique and straight, narrow and wide, external and internal.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work on the production of plaster slopes, it is worth paying due attention to the preparatory stage.

If you have a "new building", then the slopes are made only after finishing plastering of the remaining walls. In this case, you should wait a few days until the plaster on the walls dries up.

The place under the slopes must be well prepared, free of dirt, dust and any fatty deposits. The mortar protruding from the brickwork or concrete build-up must be removed.

The protruding residues of polyurethane foam must be removed

To improve the adhesion of the mortar to the wall, the brickwork must be embroidered in advance to a depth of at least 10 mm. To improve thermal insulation, it is necessary to caulk or blow out foam (which is more convenient and faster) the gaps between the window frame and the wall.

If you have wooden window frames installed, then you need to lay a special insulating material that will protect the wood from moisture absorption and subsequent rotting.

In the case of metal-plastic windows, it is recommended, after applying the mortar and drying it, to make a small notch up to 5 mm wide between the slope and the frame. Then fill it with silicone sealant. This cut will compensate for thermal expansion of the frame and ensure that there are no cracks on the surface of the window slopes.

Window slope plaster

To facilitate the removal of dirt after the work done, window frames, glass and the area around the window should be tightened with a protective cellophane film, which can be simply thrown away at the end of the work. If, when dismantling the old window frames, the edge of the slope is damaged, it is necessary to install an ordinary corner. Which one to choose, plastic or metal, you decide for yourself.

Tools and materials

To make plaster slopes with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

• roulette;
• pencil;
• putty knife;
• Master OK;
• containers for water and mixing the solution;
• pick;
• malka (by the way, you can make it yourself);

With the help of a bevel, you can make the same angle of inclination on all slopes

• deep penetration primer (you can do it yourself by stirring PVA glue with water in a 1: 2 ratio);
• cement (or ready-made plaster mix);

Preference is given to ready-made formulations in bags.

The use of ready-made mixtures will greatly facilitate the work and will allow you to get a high-quality solution

• rail for level output;
• building level (you can use a plumb line);
• brush or roller;
• water-based paint;
• putty (finishing);
• sandpaper (fine grain) or masking net.

DIY work technology

We find the zero level and set up beacons for plastering around the entire perimeter

Before starting all work, it is necessary to prepare the surface for applying the solution. After that, we find the zero level and set the beacons for plaster around the entire perimeter of the future slopes of the window frame. Installing wooden slats will make the work easier.

Reiki can be fixed to an ordinary mortar. In this case, you need to control the level both horizontally and vertically.

We prepare the mortar for slopes in accordance with the instructions on the package. It must be thoroughly mixed, to achieve uniformity in all layers. After setting all the landmarks, they begin to process the surfaces of the slope with a primer (or a mixture with PVA).

The finish is best repeated several times with short breaks.

We proceed to surface treatment with a primer. When the desired level is reached, the last movements of the spatula should be carried out from the window towards the room.

After preparing the solution, take a spatula and throw in the first layer of the solution. If you need to make the plaster slopes high, then the solution should be applied in layers at short intervals, during which the layer dries out a little. We begin to apply the solution from the bottom up, focusing on the beacons or wooden slats. "Driving out" the required height, it is important to apply the solution correctly: first vertically and then horizontally. When the desired level is reached, the last movements of the spatula should be carried out from the window towards the room.

When plastering slopes on top of a window opening, it is recommended to add gypsum or alabaster during the preparation of the mortar. This is necessary to speed up drying.

The mortar, especially in the upper part of the slopes, is best applied in small portions.

Many people recommend increasing the number of layers for high-quality plaster of the upper slope and at the same time reducing the volume of the solution applied on the spatula. Malka will be useful for you when making plaster slopes with an angle, if this angle should be the same on all surfaces. Using this tool is simple: you install one end on the window frame, and the other on a wooden rail, which is fixed on the edge of the slope.

It is necessary to remove the excess with a small one to create the correct angle only after the mortar has set.

All irregularities are removed with fine-grained sandpaper.

After that, a layer of finishing putty is applied. All irregularities are removed with fine-grained emery paper or a masking net. Finished dry slopes are covered with water-based paint in several layers with drying between approaches.