Proper installation of plastic window sills. Do-it-yourself window sill installation

Almost any modern renovation involves replacing windows, and few developers think of leaving an old, oil-painted wooden or asbestos-cement window sill. Many people are familiar with the situation when the “windowers” finished their work and left, and the new window sill was left alone to stand near the wall. What to do next? Looking for masters again?

The window sill is an obligatory element of a modern interior. At the same time, it performs not only a decorative function, not only serves as a stand for flowers and household appliances, but also actively participates in the processes of air exchange that occur near windows. Protecting the lower part of the window opening from possible condensation and mechanical damage, thermal insulation of one of the most problematic areas of the outer walls - this is the true, utilitarian purpose of a well-installed window sill.

How to choose a window sill

At the moment, it is not difficult to buy a window sill made of durable, dimensionally stable material, resistant to sunlight and temperature changes. There are many options on the market, each with its own pros and cons. However, the main problems of choice come down more to the implementation of design solutions and the thickness of the wallet.

Due to the low cost, from 55 rubles per linear meter, and good technical characteristics, PVC window sills are most widely used. They have similar properties to plastic windows, as they are made from the same UV-resistant, water-resistant materials. The multi-chamber structure with frequent bulkheads provides them with high compressive strength and excellent thermal insulation properties.

Light weight, ease of cutting and processing greatly facilitate the process of installing plastic window sills. It is not a problem to choose the color of the finished product, including wood and marble imitation. The color can be transferred both "in mass", for example, brown, and in the form of a film according to the RAL catalog. Most often, such window sills are made to match the window profile. The front surface of the PVC window sill has a matte texture or has a varnish coating. It is easy to find a plastic window sill that is suitable in size for almost any specific occasion. In large hardware stores, products with a thickness of 18-22 mm and a width of 100 to 600 mm are often available. The strips are 4 or 6 meters long, but, as a rule, you can order their cutting on the spot, or buy a window sill of any length. The main disadvantages of plastic window sills can be considered weak resistance to local damage: scratches, chips, breakdowns. They are practically unrepairable.

Window sills made of MDF and chipboard can have a laminated top layer, be covered with cork or wood veneer. At a low price, they perfectly imitate expensive materials, including natural stone. Such products have good performance and thermal insulation properties. They are easy enough to cut and install.

If the protective coating of window sills made of MDF and chipboard is not damaged, then they are not exposed to moisture, do not warp or swell. Laminated window sills are difficult to scratch. Their cost per linear meter can range from 150 to 1200 rubles with a width of 30 cm.

Window sills made of softwood and hardwood are the best fit for wooden windows, they have a very beautiful texture, visible under a transparent protective coating, but can also be painted in any color. They are also a good thermal insulator.

Depending on the properties of the wood used, they have a certain degree of bending strength, resistance to scratches and dents, and they are also easy to repair. The thickness of window sills made of wood is most often about 40 mm. Among the shortcomings, one can note the need to ensure their waterproofing, which completely depends on the condition and quality of the protective and decorative coating, which requires periodic renewal. Prices for products made of oak, hornbeam, beech, cherry, ash can hardly be called affordable. A high-quality window sill made of massive pine will “pull” at least 1000 rubles per linear meter, larch - 1800, beech - 3000, oak - 5000.

Window sills made of natural stone - marble, granite or onyx, are perhaps the most expensive of all on the market (from 3,000 rubles per linear meter), but their classic beauty, sophistication and prestige leave no one indifferent. The assets of such products include an expressive texture, a choice of color, size, shape, style of processing corners and edges. Stone window sills are not afraid of water and temperature changes, but to some extent they are prone to pollution due to the porosity of natural materials. Being quite fragile, natural stone products are well repaired. The heavy weight, as well as the complexity of processing, make their installation somewhat difficult. Window sills made of natural stone do not have thermal insulation properties.

Models of window sills made of artificial stone have operational advantages - this is resistance to chemical pollution, relatively low thermal conductivity. Troubles (in the low price category of such products) can cause scratches on the front surface and its fading. Of course, they are cheaper than analogues made from natural materials.

How to determine the required dimensions of the window sill

In order for the window sill to serve for a long time, be convenient and functional, it must not only be correctly installed, but also correctly calculate its dimensions. In some cases, it makes sense to manufacture the window sill in the factory according to the exact dimensions. This problem is especially serious when working with stone, since it is quite difficult to process, and it’s very good if you don’t need to adjust anything locally. Window sills made of MDF and chipboard can be ordered with a fully processed edge, which also does not need to be cut off, as it reliably protects the product from moisture.

The length of the finished product must be greater than the width of the window so that the window sill enters the walls. Usually, from 30 to 50 mm are released for the line of vertical slopes on each side. For example, if the width of the window is 1000 mm, then it would be logical to order the window sill 100 mm more, 20 of which will go to the light turn of the slopes, 80 - to the side outlets (40 mm each). In the area of \u200b\u200bthe balcony block, the window sill cuts into the wall with one side, and near the door it should hang a little, about 10 mm, over a short vertical slope.

The width of the window sill is mainly determined by the depth of the window opening. As a rule, the overhang of the window sill is made about 30-50 mm from the wall. This size is explained by the fact that a window sill that is too wide can prevent the free circulation of warm air coming from heating radiators, which can lead to the formation of condensate on the surface of double-glazed windows and side slopes. With a large overhang, the bending strength of the structure is significantly reduced.

To correctly determine the desired width of the window sill, it is necessary to perform the main finishing of the outer wall - plaster, drywall. It will be enough to have installed beacons or a metal frame. Measurements are made with a tape measure from the window to a cord stretched in the plane of the wall or a rule installed across the opening.

Attention! It should be noted that the window sill of about 10 mm enters under the frame, resting against the mounting plate of the plastic window or a quarter of the wooden profile.

It is especially difficult to measure non-standard window sills, such as on rounded walls, bay windows, kitchen countertop window sills. Sometimes the window is deployed in the opening, then if you want to have an equally protruding window sill cornice, its width will have to be made uneven. In all these cases, for the manufacture of templates and patterns, we recommend inviting specialists from the organization in which you will order them. The most accurate, flawless products are obtained from measurements taken with surveying equipment, such as a total station. A tape measure and a cardboard sheet do not always help out.

The main principle is simple: "measure seven times - order once."

When to install a window sill

If you decide to simply change the windows while maintaining the entire interior decoration of the premises, then there is nothing special to wait for - you can proceed immediately after the mounting foam dries.

But in the case of a major overhaul, the matter is a little more complicated. The reason for this is the vulnerability of the surfaces of the prematurely expensive product installed. In the process of carrying out extensive repair and construction work, when a large number of employees, guests from contractors (air conditioners, security system installers, stretch ceiling installers, furniture assemblers ...) are at the facility, it is extremely difficult to keep the window sill safe and sound. A flat horizontal surface, like a magnet, pulls you to place a tool on it, small, and not very, building material, put a cup of coffee, step with your foot to reach the high ceiling. As a result - the replacement of the window sill and the alteration of the slopes due to "no one knows where" appeared scratches, dents, chips, persistent chemical stains.

Many practicing builders have come to the conclusion that the installation of the window sill must be done at the very last moment, just before finishing. Naturally, by this moment the whole range of preparatory work must be completed, including the installation and even puttying of walls and slopes.

How to prepare a place for installing a window sill

Depending on the type of product, its material and thickness, as well as on the chosen method of fastening, we will prepare the base. The first step is to remove all loosely holding, protruding elements of the wall on which the window sill will rest, these are loose bricks, rusty plaster, installation wedges, fasteners, and embedded parts. If during the dismantling work, through holes were formed on the street, or in the enclosing structures, it is recommended to foam them.

You also need to prepare strobes in the wall for the window sill to enter, here you can not do without the use of a small grinder and a puncher. If the slopes are sheathed with drywall or plastered, then their plane must be interrupted no lower than the window profile in order to form a technological niche.

Next, the masonry should be restored, and along the beacons, at a given height, pour a flat area from a durable moisture-resistant mortar. To install a window sill on polyurethane foam, it is advisable to have a gap of about 20 mm from the bottom of the product to the top of the installation site, this is so that the pipe of the mounting gun can be inserted into the window frame area. To install a heavy stone window sill on a layer of most special adhesives, only 5 mm is required, that is, from the bottom of the window, the platform must be lowered by 35 mm, where 30 mm will be the thickness of the window sill.

If the outer wall is sheathed with drywall on a metal frame, a horizontal jumper should be placed at the correct height, passing under the window. A common mistake novice drywall installers make is setting it too high.

A very important point in the preparatory work is to check the evenness of the lower edge of the window block. Certain problems are caused by poorly manufactured or incorrectly installed PVC windows. Very often, at the junctions of the vertical and lower horizontal profiles, there are burrs that make it impossible to press the window sill tightly against the window - they must be cut with a knife. Another common defect is the shape of the lower profile in the form of one or more arcs, curved upwards with their middle. Its presence is easy to check by stretching the thread along the bottom edge of the window from corner to corner. If a thin plastic window sill can be easily pressed against the window with wedges or foam, then with rigid products made from other materials everything is much more complicated, they only emphasize all the irregularities. As a result - very ugly cracks that will have to be sealed with all kinds of sealants. The reality is that even in new buildings of the elite class, it is necessary to repair the plastic window blocks installed by the builders - cut the foam from under the window, remove the wedges and fasteners, dismantle the double-glazed window and align the PVC profile in various ways. Sometimes the case ends with a complete reinstallation or replacement of defective windows.

How to install and fix the window sill

No matter how accurately we have made preliminary measurements, before installation, the window sill often has to be cut a little, especially in places where it enters the walls. Wood and MDF, chipboard are best cut with an electric jigsaw with a metal file, but a plastic or stone window sill is cut with a grinder with a diamond blade.

To firmly press the window sill to the window, it is necessary to use wooden or plastic wedges. They are prepared based on the thickness of the product and installed near the window lintel with an interval of 400-500 mm. Some crafters prefer to pre-glue them to the substrate so that they do not move during installation. The correctness of the selection of wedges is checked by trying on the window sill dry - the product must enter tightly.

The installation profile (window plate) should be carefully smeared with silicone to seal the abutment, the protruding mass can then be cut off. The end parts of the window sill made of MDF or chipboard are also recommended to be covered with a layer of sealant, especially if there is damage to the protective coating.

The window sill is installed in its place and centered relative to the axis of the window or the lines of the side slopes. Wedges are also installed under its front part, adjusting the level of the window sill. In most cases, the cornice of the window sill is made lower than its base, pressed against the window by 2-3 mm, so that moisture does not accumulate near the junction.

A window sill made of MDF, chipboard, wood, plastic can be additionally fixed by screwing it with long self-tapping screws through the window installation profile; for this, it is necessary to remove the outer ebb.

So that the foam, expanding, does not squeeze the window sill up, it is necessary to put 2-3 spacers going from the product to the top of the slope. We recommend installing even wooden beams along the entire length of the window sill and on top to distribute the pressure from the spacers. It is convenient to adjust them with the help of wedges. Options with placing cargo from improvised materials on the windowsill sometimes play a cruel joke with the masters, everything ends with a re-installation.

Now you can foam the space under the windowsill. The foam should be applied moderately, but evenly, without gaps, not forgetting its ability to expand greatly. You need to carefully fill the places where the side parts of the window sill enter the wall with foam, keep in mind that this is an important element of thermal insulation.

Stone window sills are not recommended to be mounted on foam, as there are cases when, during its expansion, a marble product was broken along the veins. It is better to install them on a special glue, for example, CM117, CM115 and the like. For window sills made of onyx and light marble, it is better to use white glue, which will not leave marks in case of accidental contact with the front surface.

With a comb with a tooth of the desired size, about 6-8 mm, the adhesive composition, preferably in one continuous movement, is evenly leveled on a pre-prepared base. The notched trowel should be driven as vertically as possible - only in this way the height of the ridges will be the same. With an even spatula, the stone window sill is covered with glue on the back side with a thin layer and set in the design position.

If the window sill has a large overhang, then special corner brackets are used to fix it. They are fixed with one shoulder to the load-bearing wall with an interval of up to 500 mm, but not less than three pieces per product. Often this part of the bracket is recessed into the cladding and sealed with mortars. The window sill is screwed to the consoles from below by means of short cylindrical screws.

After the foam or glue is completely dry, usually done the next day, you can remove the spacers, install the end caps, and start embedding the junctions.

How to protect the window sill from damage

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the correct storage of window sills at the facility. Products made of wood, PVC, chipboard are best stored in pairs, with front surfaces to each other, between which soft gaskets should be inserted. Stone window sills are stored in an upright position, they should stand on two bars with an edge, leaning against the wall at a slight angle.

Before installing any window sill, it must be covered with sheet polyethylene using masking tape, or with a special film that does not leave adhesive traces. Remember that there is still a lot of painting and installation work ahead, and this is the danger of contamination and mechanical deformation.

Attention! The factory protective film must be removed even before the installation of the window sill in order to be able to check the quality and integrity of the front cover.

Window sills made of natural stone are able to absorb various substances with the formation of hard-to-remove stains, therefore, after installation, they are immediately treated with protective compounds that close the pores of the front surface.

After installation, strips of plasterboard, GVL or other similar materials should be laid on top of the film, precisely cut along the visible contour of the window sill.

Marble products are recommended to be preserved with a protective wooden shield, paying special attention to the cornice of the product. The hanging end is the most vulnerable spot; it is covered with a bar sewn in front. The casing must be securely fixed in the opening and rest on the polished surface through soft pads.

There is one more very important nuance that should not be overlooked, which directly affects the correct functioning and durability of the window sill - the distance between the bottom of the window sill and the heating radiator should not be less than 100 mm.

Turishchev Anton, rmnt.ru

Repair of an apartment or house includes the installation of window sills and slopes on plastic windows. It is known that the window sill, in addition to the aesthetic role, also performs a protective one.

In addition to mechanical stress and the influence of temperature, wooden, stone and plastic window sills are affected by moisture and sunlight.

All these factors predetermine the life of windows.

Installing or replacing them with your own hands on plastic or wooden windows is a simple process and does not require any professional building skills.

Preparatory stage

Before repairing and replacing window sills and slopes, it is worth buying all the necessary tools that are needed to install the window sill under the window.

After all, it is pleasant to work with properly selected and good materials, tools, as they increase the efficiency and quality of work.

In addition, products and tools will come in handy in the future, given that the repair and replacement of windows will be more than once, and the installation of plates will be carried out under each window.

All of them are purchased in specialized stores or in window companies.

If you install windows yourself, you will need the following tools:

circular saw or jigsaw;
level
roulette;
mounting foam;
marker;
perforator.

The installation of the window sill begins, first of all, with measurements. First you need to find out the dimensions of the workpiece.

It should be remembered that the quality of the entire work depends on how correctly the required dimensions are clarified.

The length of the workpiece should be chosen more than necessary, because then it will not be difficult to adjust the dimensions using conventional tools.

The width of the workpiece must be such that the design does not disturb the air circulation from the battery upwards.

If this condition is neglected, condensation will appear on the windows, and the flow of cold air will move into the room and it will be necessary to change the windows.

That is why determining the dimensions correctly in advance is a very important stage in the preparatory work.

Trimming the slab under the window

Sometimes a situation arises when you need to properly fit the window sills to the appropriate window sizes. First, make markings on the product with a marker.

Do not forget that the excess is cut off from the part that is attached to the wall.

In this case, the cut lines should also be noted. They should go 0.5 - 1 centimeter so that the slab fits rigidly and tightly with the window frame.

If the edges of the products do not preserve the stiffeners, the inner sections will lose their desired shape at the junction and bend inward.

Trimming is done by hand using a jigsaw, saw or a special hacksaw, and stone window sills are trimmed with a special diamond disc.

The main thing here is not to forget about accuracy and not to press the tool with great force in order to prevent scratches or chips, otherwise you will have to change the workpiece.

Also, do not forget about safety measures: prevent small particles from getting into your eyes and use gloves.

Now the workpiece is completely ready for installation in place. The window sill must be washed and proceed to the next step.

Lining installation

When the measurements and trimming of the window sill are carried out, it is necessary to continue the repair and start preparing the lining.

This is important to create small slopes to the outside so that water flows out.

At the same time, the linings should not protrude, so that they do not have to be cut off again later.

If there are gaps, they are usually covered with mounting foam.

When laying, do not forget to put the slopes of plastic or wooden windows. The lower slopes are cut to the wall, and the installation site is cleared of unnecessary material.

It is assumed that the gap between the window sill and the wall does not exceed 4 millimeters and adjoins the windows quite tightly and correctly.

It is also necessary to install metal strips and insert the ends of these strips into the lower plugs under the window sills in order to avoid their deformation.

Installation of window sills

Repair involves the installation of window sills and slopes in various ways. The first one is outdated and rarely used.

It implies that the window sills are fixed with a special adhesive solution. The fastest way is do-it-yourself installation using self-tapping screws.

First, holes are drilled in the frame, into which these same parts are then screwed.

The joint area is filled with silicone sealant, and the edge of the window sill is brought under the frame, attracting with self-tapping screws.

According to the second method, installation is carried out using aluminum spring clips, screwed with self-tapping screws.

And the final method, which is the most reliable and involves the use of the necessary materials, is to use special linings that are installed under various window sills.

There are different ways to install various window sills, before use, the positive and negative sides of each of them are evaluated, and only after that - you need to choose the most optimal one, because the replacement of windows will depend on this.

The methods differ only in the way in which various window sills, including wooden ones, are placed under the frame.

If the window sill has irregularities, then during installation a gap may remain between its upper part and the frame. It is carefully filled with silicone.

After that, you need to wash everything.

Slope installation

Upon completion of the installation of the window sill, it is required to install the same (wooden or plastic) slopes.

To do this, both horizontally and vertically, you need to align the window opening with your own hands.

This process is carried out using mounting foam, which protects them from the influence of temperature. Next, the quality of the filled foam is checked.

If there are excesses, they should be removed, and if shortcomings are found, they must be refilled.

First - you should install the top panel, which stretches along the entire length of the window installation, and only then fix the side panel.

There are different approaches. Installation can be carried out using rack frames, while fixing the panel with nails or staples.

It is necessary to do everything as correctly and accurately as possible, while preventing damage to the window sill, window and its slopes.

The second approach, the simplest and most convenient, is the use of polyurethane window foams, as well as masking tape.

An important condition for beautifully made slopes is the ideal vertical fastening of the rails.

For the purpose of leveling, you should use wooden blocks and use the level to achieve the perfect vertical.

When all the necessary materials are installed, excess amounts of foam are cut off, outside and inside the room, before washing everything, it is necessary to apply a rotband to the foam.

As soon as it hardens, the various external slopes should be painted with water-based paint.

Then it is necessary to remove the protective layer from the slopes, window sill, plastic window, wash the spots and dirt, and in the end, coat all the cracks with liquid plastic.

At this stage, the repair is completed.

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How to install window sills on plastic windows quickly and correctly

The inner window sill is an essential element of any window. It is officially considered that this part of the structure is necessary for additional insulation of the lower joint of the window frame with the wall and giving the window a finished look. In this article we will talk about what window sills are and, since plastic windows occupy at least 50 - 70% of the market, I will dwell on how to properly install a window sill on plastic windows.

What are window sills

By and large, if the craftsmen installed the window frame with high quality and foamed the bottom gap well, this sector no longer needs special insulation. Therefore, the owners are usually more interested in the question of how respectable this or that window sill will look, and of course the price of this pleasure.

Many inexperienced owners believe that since their windows are plastic, then the rest of the fittings must also be installed from PVC (polyvinyl chloride is popularly window plastic).

In fact, you can put any window sills here, the main thing is that they fit the design and you have enough money for them. Therefore, before putting a window sill on plastic windows, it will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with the main offers on the market:

Naturally, the most popular material is the above-mentioned polyvinyl chloride.. The hollow structure, reinforced with internal stiffeners, is considered to be quite warm and durable. With traditional white windows, it harmonizes almost perfectly, and for laminated windows, you can choose a window sill. Plus, a PVC plate costs quite reasonable money. Plastic is not afraid of moisture and, if the technology is not broken, then it will last as long as the windows;

If the choice fell on PVC, you should not get carried away with savings, they are not expensive anyway. The fact is that plastic, like no other material, is exposed to sunlight. While the window sill is new, everything will be beautiful, but after six months the surface of cheap plastic will change. It will at least turn yellow, and at the maximum it will crack and deform.

Figuratively speaking, the older brother of polyvinyl chloride is an acrylic-based plastic window sill.. It costs about 3 times more expensive, but the quality here is much better. Whatever one may say, but PVC plate is afraid of high temperatures, unlike it, you can put hot pots on acrylic and even a cigarette butt forgotten on it will not harm the surface. Acrylic board is much stronger, its shiny glossy surface looks more respectable. The colors are brighter here, and the palette is wider;

The wooden window sill is rightfully considered the patriarch of this trend.. In the public sector, as a rule, pine is used. The range of species in elite window sills is much wider, it can be golden oak, teak and a dozen more exotic types of wood. But to be honest, I do not understand people who put expensive natural wood on plastic windows. And in general, plastic does not harmonize well with wood, except if these windows are laminated to a certain type of wood;

Window sills made of laminated chipboard or MDF are quite another matter.. In this case, the same plates come here, from which countertops are made, which designers actively use. Chipboard will cost a little less, MDF will come out more expensive. But MDF is more resistant to damp environments and I always recommend installing it. Since installing a window sill if the window is already there, the task for the home master is quite feasible, people are now massively rushing to change the old plastic to the new laminated MDF;

A polished window sill made of natural stone certainly looks luxurious, but their prices are, frankly, exorbitant. Although if you look, in operation they are not so good. The fact is that natural stone is unpredictable, stains from coffee or red wine can remain on it, any plate always has a critical point, with a light blow to which the plate bursts. Plus, the same granite can often and densely emit a little radiation. Agree, it’s not pleasant enough to install such a “gift” in your own home, and even for a lot of money;

Both in terms of cost and performance, it is much more profitable to install modern artificial stone. First, in appearance, it often does not differ from natural. Secondly, it is more resistant to mechanical and chemical stress. The reproaches of skeptics that artificial stone is less durable are only partly true. After all, for example, the guarantee for porcelain stoneware starts from 50 to 70 years. Roughly speaking, these window sills can get bored rather than fall apart.

For a story about manufacturers and prices for all existing types of window sills, no article is enough. But since even an amateur can correctly put a plastic window sill, I decided to focus on it. Plus, according to statistics, about 50% of the plastic window market is occupied by PVC window sills.

Below, in order to make it easier for you to navigate, I have compiled a small table that contains the most popular and reliable manufacturers of various window fittings with average prices for the window sills we are interested in.

Company name	Manufacturer country	Average price per linear meter of window sill	Types of design (except for white, it is everywhere)
Moeller	Germany	330 rub.
Werzalit	Germany	350 rub.
Niko-Plast	Russia	560 rub.
Danke	Ukraine	365 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 11 kinds
Melenger	Russia	960 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 12 kinds
crystalite	Russia	345 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 16 kinds
Montblanc	Russia	60 rub. (White) 130 rub. (color)	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 10 kinds
Vitrage	Russia	350 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 14 types

Window sill installation technique

The easiest way is to install or replace a window sill made of PVC and acrylic with your own hands. Installation instructions for MDF, chipboard and natural wood are not much more complicated. As for natural or artificial stone, it is better to entrust these materials to professionals, since not every master is able to install them.

Dismantling the old stove

Naturally, before replacing an old, obsolete window sill with a new one, you must first dismantle it. Do not be afraid, this is a simple matter, but responsible. After all, the more carefully you remove the stove, the less hassle will be with the preparation of the base.

If there is a wooden window sill, then to dismantle it, you will need a hacksaw and a pry bar or a small crowbar. It’s not worth knocking out the board with a mount right away, you can severely damage the slopes and then you have to mess around with them. It is better to make 2 or 3 cuts and pull out the central part. At the same time, on the sides you will have small pieces walled up in slopes. These pieces must be carefully knocked out with several blows from the side, at the butt;

I am often asked if it is possible to replace a hacksaw with a grinder? So in no case should you do this. Remember, perhaps the largest number of injuries and injuries from an angle grinder is obtained precisely when trying to cut a tree with an angle grinder.

But in the case of a reinforced concrete or stone slab, a grinder with a diamond disc will be exactly what you need. In this case, in addition to it, a weighty hammer or a small sledgehammer will also come in handy. First, the grinder makes several cuts, if possible through. After that, take a hammer and knock out all this “cutting” with blows from the bottom up. The remains are cleaned with a mount;

Fastening a plastic window sill is considered one of the weakest. But before you remove such a plate, you should first dismantle the ebb (outer window sill) and check if our plastic is screwed with self-tapping screws from the outside. If they are there, then naturally they will need to be unscrewed. If there are none, then you just have to carefully cut the mounting foam under the slab and try to pull out the window sill, moving it down and towards you at the same time.

A few words about preparing the foundation

Whether you are changing an old design or working from scratch, before you mount anything new, you must definitely prepare the base. In fact, all preparation consists in cleaning up dust and debris, as well as puttying large potholes, if any.

Some masters advise to make an even screed under the window sill, supposedly on its basis it will be easier to level the slab. I tried to install both with and without a screed, on a bare base.

I'll tell you honestly, there is nothing reprehensible in the screed, you can do this, but it's a pity the time spent on it. Indeed, by and large, there is no difference in whether you put wooden wedges on a flat base or on a curve. And if you plan to install on alabaster or cement-sand mortar, the arrangement of an even screed generally loses its meaning.

Let's start installation

Installation of a window sill always begins with a fitting. Of course, ideally, it is better to install the window sill even before the slopes are arranged, while the walls are bare, but this only happens in new buildings.

Since we are talking about how to change the old to the new, we will have to cut, or rather, knock out grooves in the side slopes. There is one interesting nuance here. The instruction recommends that before placing the window sill to the plastic window, make wide lateral tolerances, approximately 5 - 7 cm from each edge.

That is, we need to make side grooves in the slopes with a depth of 5 - 7 cm along the outer edge. It is believed that this is allegedly more elegant. If you need to cultivate 1 - 2 windows, then these visits to the walls will not play a big role.

It is a completely different matter when the task is to fully equip all the windows in a fairly large private house, and funds are limited. In this case, an addition of 10 cm on each window, at the end, will result in a whole extra window sill.

Personally, I always recommend making lateral tolerances of no more than 20 - 30 mm. Believe me, this is quite enough to ensure a decent appearance. Moreover, curtains are hung on most windows in residential buildings and apartments, which will completely close all these tolerances.

The side grooves themselves are knocked out to the tolerance depth, that is, to the distance at which the plate will go inside the slope.

In order to accurately mark and not grab too much, you need to take a square, attach it to the window frame and draw a horizontal line starting from the upper cut of the groove under the window sill and ending with the outer cut of the slope. This will be the upper limit of our groove.

The easiest way is to make cuts on the slopes with a grinder to the desired depth, and then knock out the excess with a puncher or a chisel with a hammer.

Plastic window sills can be installed in two ways, with and without fixation on the window frame. The only difference is that in the first version, the inner end of the window sill, the one that is adjacent to the window frame, is first rigidly fixed on this very frame. Further, the entire installation algorithm is completely identical.

When marking and trimming the window sill, it should be noted that it should not protrude beyond the cut of the wall by more than 5 - 7 cm. And under the frame itself, the plane is immersed by a maximum of 1 - 2 cm.

Fixing on the frame is extremely simple. In the place where the window sill will be adjacent to the frame, in increments of 300 - 400 mm, a series of through holes is made along the horizon. After that, the window sill is pressed against the frame and from the side of the street, it is screwed through these holes with long self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws must enter the body of the plate by at least 20 - 30 mm.

But it is not always possible to screw the plate with self-tapping screws to the frame. In this case, it is simply inserted under the frame. To enhance the thermal insulation, immediately before strengthening the slab, I apply a couple of strips of mounting foam to the place of its installation.

The installation of a plastic window sill itself looks something like this: first we insert the plate we cut out and see how it will lie in the future. There is no need to worry about the curvature along the horizon. After all, the plate is adjacent to the lower edge of the window frame, which is already set to the horizon.

But we need to slightly tilt the plate inside the room, so that if necessary, water does not accumulate, but flows freely from the windowsill. How much I have come across, in different sources, the value of this angle is interpreted differently. Personally, I make a slope in the region of 5 mm in width.

The inclined plate itself will be based on wooden wedges. These wedges are usually installed at a distance of about 300 mm from each other. Each of them is cut and adjusted individually and should fit snugly, without gaps.

As mentioned earlier, the plate sits in a groove under the window frame on the mounting foam. Then it rests on the wedges we installed. But before fixing it completely, check again that it stands firmly, without distortions and play. It is better to tinker with the fit of the wedges now than to constantly cover up the cracks later.

To increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the mounting foam with any surface, this very surface must be well moistened.

The slab is fastened by filling the voids under it with mounting foam. And do not try to blow out too much foam, it will not be better from this, because the excess will come out anyway.

As you know, the mounting foam expands when it hardens, and if this feature of it is not taken into account in time, then your window sill can be squeezed out in the middle. So that such an opportunity does not happen, after filling the gaps with foam, you need to put a load of about 15 - 20 kg on the windowsill. It should stand for at least 10 - 12 hours.

At the last stage, the load is removed, the excess foam squeezed out from below is cut off, and the hard-hitting cracks on the sides in the slopes are puttied. The only thing left to do is enjoy your work.

Installation of wood and its derivatives

As I already mentioned, installing window sills made of natural wood, MDF or chipboard is not a little more difficult than installing plastic. Here, in the same way, it is necessary, after marking, to knock out the grooves in the slopes.

The window sill itself, if the frame design allows, it is desirable to fix it on the frame or on the base profile, which is placed under the frame. As in the case of plastic, this is done using self-tapping screws, through through holes.

But in this case, there is one small nuance: there is such an interesting physical quantity as the coefficient of thermal expansion of the material. So, when we put a plastic window sill on a plastic window, there is nothing to be afraid of, because this coefficient is the same for them.

But in the case of joining different materials, as a result of a mismatch in thermal and moisture expansion, gaps and cracks may appear over time. Therefore, we will need to glue the so-called damper tape to the end of the plate, which is designed to compensate for these fluctuations.

Naturally, this tape is glued or attached to the brackets, only in places of direct contact with the body of the slopes and the window frame. Traditionally, the material for such a tape is felt impregnated with an antiseptic. Although now some craftsmen use penofol (polyethylene foam).

Wood, chipboard or MDF is heavier than plastic, so I personally prefer to use gypsum mortar instead of mounting foam, it's more reliable. Instead of gypsum, with the same success, you can install the slab on a cement-sand mortar, diluted in a ratio of 1: 3.

In this case, the instruction will look something like this. We knock out the grooves in the slopes, try on the slab and grind the required number of wooden wedges under it. After that, we apply the solution to the base. The solution layer should cover the wedges by 5-10 mm.

Further along the line of docking with the frame, we apply a couple of strips of mounting foam. We insert the window sill with a damper tape and press it until it rests on the wedges. We remove the excess of the squeezed out solution and putty the cracks on the slopes at the junction with the slab.

If everything is done correctly, then the window sill will stand firmly. But some masters prefer to play it safe. They hammer a long nail into wooden wedges from below in such a way that it passes through and looks out from above by 10 - 15 mm. The wooden wedge itself is fixed to the base with an anchor.

As a result, when you finally insert the slab, it sits on the nails sticking out of the wedges and fastens tightly. A worthy method.

The only downside here is that before installation, you need to carefully measure and check everything several times. Otherwise, in case of an error, almost everything will have to be done again, because the nails will no longer allow you to move or adjust the plate.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install a window sill on plastic windows. The photos and videos in this article provide additional information on this topic. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments, let's talk.

October 17, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

You may well purchase a window sill separately from a plastic window, because, for example, it may break, or you first wanted to keep the old wooden window sill, but then changed your mind. We will tell you how to install a plastic window sill with your own hands.

Choosing the Right

If you opted for a PVC window sill, most likely, all its positive and negative sides were evaluated. The pros are:

Durability. The plastic itself has a very long service life. It is not affected by water or other corrosive non-aggressive liquids.
Relative ease of installation. Compared to products made from other materials, there is less risk of doing something wrong during installation.
Acceptable cost. Wooden window sills made of artificial or natural stone have a cost that is much higher.
Light weight.
Ease of processing.
Additional thermal insulation.
Ease of cleaning. Almost any non-abrasive detergent is suitable.

Here are some cons:

Instability to high temperatures (in most cases).
Impossibility of recovery after damage. If wooden, for example, can be puttied, cleaned and painted, then such a number will not work here.
If the surface of the product is rough, dirt will accumulate there over time, which is not so easy to wash.

Window sills can be purchased together with installed windows, and after. Their installation is carried out both on the balcony and in a wooden house. In doing so, you should pay attention to:

Tool

In order for the installation to go like clockwork, we need the following tools:

hammer;
roulette;
level or laser level;
building corner;
polyurethane foam and gun;
Bulgarian;
chisel;
plastic linings or other material;
acrylic or silicone sealant;
side plugs.

Foam can be with different degree of expansion. Choose it according to your needs. But it’s better not to take one that will not expand at all, because. it will not be able to compensate for some gaps, and they may remain after installation.

This step may take the most time, but it is actually the most important in the whole process.

Let's see how the window is installed. It is important to assess whether there are any deviations from the horizontal plane. To do this, we apply a level or start a projection from a laser level along the lower edge of the frame. In the future, the window sill will be set exactly on it, which can also lead to skew. If there are small deviations, then this is not a problem, it will be further described how they can be compensated.

We measure the width of the window opening. It is important to remember that the plane of the stand should be recessed into the slopes by 1 cm from each end, and the protruding part on the sides should go beyond the opening by 3 cm or more.

We make grooves in the slopes, where the ends of the window sill will go. The edge of the frame will serve as a guide in this regard. Pay attention to the edge of the stand on which the window stands, namely the lower edge of the frame.

In order to do everything right, you can use several methods. Using a laser plane builder, a horizontal line is projected onto the opening. From this line along the window, a measurement is made to the edge, the value is fixed. Further, the same distance is laid off from the same line, but already on the slope. If there is no level, then you can use a water or ordinary level, which is placed close to the bottom line of the frame, aligned in a horizontal plane with a bubble indicator and a mark is made.

A straight line is applied that will connect our mark and the edge of the frame.

Most likely, there is a metal corner at the corners of the slopes. In no case should you try to knock it down with a chisel and a hammer, as you can damage it completely. For this, it is better to use a grinder. Two small transverse cuts are simply made to its width. An incision is also made along the applied line.

With the help of a chisel or other suitable tool and a hammer, recesses of 1.5–2 cm are knocked out.

Next, you need to evaluate the surface on which the installation will be carried out. Attention must be paid not only to how uneven it is, but also to how far it is from the bottom of the window. Ideally, it should not exceed 4 cm. This is due to the fact that it is at this thickness that the foam polymerizes in the best way, which makes it sufficiently dense and durable. If the layer size is large, then voids may form inside, which reduces the bearing capacity, and can also cause drafts.

In the event that the size exceeds 4 cm, it is necessary to reduce the gap. This can be done with the help of improvised means. For example, you can build a small formwork from the rule and pour the solution. In this case, it will be easier to bring the required level. If the installation is carried out at a time when there are still remains of a brick or foam block from the walls inside the room, then the base can be laid out of them, and all the cracks can be sealed with mortar or glue. After that, you need to give at least a day for everything to stand and grab.

In the event that the level of the base will rise with the help of a foam block, it must be soaked in water for a short time. Due to its porosity, it absorbs moisture well, and if it takes too much from the solution on which it will be placed, there will be no setting. Wetting saturates the foam block with moisture, so setting will occur as well as possible.

Installation work

The first step is cleaning. It is better to produce it with a construction vacuum cleaner, because brushes and brushes are not able to remove all the dust.

Moisture is necessary for good adhesion of the foam to other materials. Therefore, it is recommended to moisten the surface with water. But you can go further and kill two birds with one stone. You need to use not water, but a primer. In this way, it will be possible to remove residual dust, as well as provide the necessary moisture. You can apply it with a brush, but it is more convenient to do this with a manual sprayer. If you use the latter, then cover the windows with something or wipe them immediately. If the impregnation is allowed to dry, then then it will have to be removed with consequences.

The window sill is being marked. Its total width will be the width of the opening plus 10 cm (this overlap is necessary to provide 5 cm for each "ear"). The depth will be equal to the distance from the window stand to the middle of the heater, if it is under the window. Better not to close it completely. If you do this, then warm air will not flow to the windows, and they will fog up, which will lead to condensation and the growth of mold and mildew. If there is no battery and radiator, then the flight can be carried out by 5 cm. In some cases, at the request of the customer, an even larger protrusion is made. Perhaps the space will be used as an extension of the desktop or something else. In this case, it is necessary to install metal corners as supports. Their base is recessed into the plaster. The length of the window sill is adjusted taking into account the fact that the edges will be recessed into the wall by 1 cm.

Using a hacksaw for metal or an electric jigsaw, trimming is carried out.

Next, you need to prepare the supports on which the plane will lie. Special plastic plates are often used, but they may not provide the necessary rigidity. Instead, you can use parts of the trimmed window sill. They should be placed every 40-50 cm. They are set using a building level or using a level (when using the latter, a line is projected and measurements are made from it at both ends to the supports, the distance should be the same). Their height should be such that the window sill butt went under the lower part of the frame and rested against the installation bar. In order not to move them in the process, you can fix them with self-tapping screws. If the platform is from a gas block, then you can simply screw it through with self-tapping screws, in the case of a brick, you will have to use a puncher and dowels.

You can go the other way and install the supports not across, but along the windowsill. They can be made from plaster beacons. In this case, there will be more emphasis, which will definitely eliminate deflections and creases.

With the help of a gun and mounting foam, gaps are sealed, which may be under the window. Pay special attention to the corners. There are times when everything is installed beautifully, and a draft blows from below, which is an indicator of inattention.

Plugs are mounted on the window sill, and it is tried on in its place. If there are no gaps between it and the window, then installation can be continued. In the case when the gap is large enough, it is necessary to raise the supports; at its minimum values, it can be expected that the foam compensates for the gap. Until the repair is completed, the film does not need to be removed, it will be enough to lift it in those places that will hide in the wall and under the window.

If the supports were mounted lengthwise, then the main layer of foam must be applied before the window sill is installed in its place. If across, then blowing can be done in several stages. Before installation - the part that is closer to the window. Then walk along the middle line, and then along the edge.

For a day, the plane must be pressed down with a load. To do this, you can use books, eggplants with water, dumbbells (but it is advisable to make a lining of durable material under them), etc.

After polymerization and drying of the foam, its excess is cut off. Moreover, under the windowsill, it must be cut flush by about 1 cm, so that you can safely putty this space and the applied material has a sufficient layer.

If there is a twist

The output will be a little trick of the installation. Most often, this remains invisible to others, especially if the width of the product is more than 25 cm. For this, we need self-tapping screws or some other material with which we can make adjustable beacons. They are mounted in two lines. The first should be located almost right next to the window, and its level should exactly repeat the slope of the window. The second is installed closer to the edge. It must be leveled exactly to the level using a special tool. After installation, the far part of the window sill will fit snugly against the window frame, and the near one will be accurately leveled. This will deceive the eye and create the visual effect of correct placement.

Installation of the window sill can be combined with the installation of plastic pads on the corners near the window. Never rush through the process, especially when laying out. We are interested to know what nuances you noticed personally for yourself. Share your observations in the comments.

Video

Watch the video instruction from a professional to install a PVC window sill. All the nuances are clear:

When the mounting foam solidifies, it increases in volume, and the window sill can, having risen, be deformed. Therefore, before foaming the window sill space, the panel is loaded using any available weighting agents - water containers, books, collapsible dumbbells. They will hold it in place, and the foam will be squeezed out along the entire length. Excess hardened foam is cut off with a knife and final finishing is carried out.

After installing the window sill, all detected gaps and cracks in the area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes and at the bottom of the window are eliminated with silicone sealant. It is applied in a thin strip and compacted by swiping a finger from above. Excess is removed in a timely manner with a damp cloth. After drying, it will be more difficult to do this, and the result will be less accurate.

Excess dried foam is also removed, cutting it off with a clerical knife to a depth of 1 cm. Next, the surface under the panel and the large voids found flush with the wall are filled with ordinary plaster. On the ends of the window sill, using glue for PVC products, plugs are installed. At the end of all work, after the final finishing of the slopes, it remains to remove the protective film.

As you can see, installing a window sill on your own does not require special skills. The only significant obstacle may be the lack of the necessary tool and the purchase of consumables (their leftovers may no longer be useful). Accordingly, the costs will be higher than the services of a qualified specialist.

Instructions for installing a plastic window sill

Materials and tools:

Installation of PVC window sill.

plastic profile;
bars;
wedges;
metal strips;
sealant;
mounting foam;
special glue;
building level;
pencil;
jigsaw;
saw;
drill;
foam gun;
staples;
self-tapping screws.

First you need to prepare materials for work. Then you need to perform the necessary measurements. At the same time, consider the properties of the PVC profile, the height of the heating radiator. If the distance between the window sill and the radiator is too small, this can impair air circulation.

The length of the model should be several centimeters longer than the width of the window. When choosing the width of the model, it must be taken into account that the window sill recedes from the plane of the wall by no more than 8 cm. If the product is too wide, this may disrupt the air circulation between the radiator and the structure.

Then the structure is trimmed. You can order a ready-made exhibit that has standard sizes, or cut it out with your own hands from a PVC profile. In this case, you need to leave a margin of about 5 cm. You need to check if there are any defects on the product. In some cases, the model must be trimmed to fit the window. To do this, first perform the markup with a pencil.

Plastic models can be up to 3 m long. The width of the model is usually from 25 to 75 cm. If the product has a width greater than necessary, it is cut from the side that is mounted to the wall. The cut line should be 1 cm beyond the stiffeners inside the model.

The product must be cut with a jigsaw or saw. At the same time, make sure that no cracks appear. Cutting work is carried out with protective gloves.

Then proceed to the next stage of work - the installation of the lining. This work is done with the help of bars. They are placed under the windowsill. The entire load from the product is transferred to the bars. If the product has cracks, then they are filled with mounting foam.

Then you need to check whether the product is firmly attached to the frame. Next, you need to cut down the slopes to the wall. The installation site of the structure is cleaned of contaminants. Fix the wedges on which the window sill is installed. The wedges must not protrude beyond the level of the wall. The product is installed in a groove. The design should fit snugly against the window frame. The gap between the wall and the product cannot exceed 4 mm. The part of the structure that protrudes beyond the internal slopes must adjoin the wall closely without gaps.

Metal strips are mounted under the structure, which are included in the lower plug of the window sill. This is necessary in order to ensure the strength of the product. Then the structure is installed in its place. To do this, the product is pre-aligned, and then fixed. Mounting the model can be done in several ways, which were described earlier. The length of the product must be greater than the distance between the slopes.

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Installation work

The first step is cleaning. It is better to produce it with a construction vacuum cleaner, because brushes and brushes are not able to remove all the dust.

Better to use a primer

Features of installing a PVC window sill

Using a hacksaw for metal or an electric jigsaw, trimming is carried out.

Wooden wedges for a plastic window

Next, you need to prepare the supports on which the plane will lie. Special plastic plates are often used, but they may not provide the necessary rigidity. Instead, you can use parts of the trimmed window sill. They should be placed every 40–50 cm. They are set using a building level or using a level (when using the latter, a line is projected and measurements are made from it at both ends to the supports, the distance should be the same). Their height should be such that the window sill butt went under the lower part of the frame and rested against the installation bar. In order not to move them in the process, you can fix them with self-tapping screws. If the site is from a gas block, then you can simply screw it through with self-tapping screws, in the case of a brick, you will have to use perforators.

PVC window sill installation scheme

Window sill alignment

Fixing

View of the window sill from below

Filling the gap with mounting foam

For a day, the plane must be pressed down with a load. To do this, you can use books, eggplants with water, dumbbells (but it is advisable to make a lining of durable material under them), etc.

Fixing the plastic window sill

We seal the seam under the window sill with cement putty

How to install a window sill

All window sills are mounted according to the general principle. Since plastic window sill boards are more often preferred for do-it-yourself installation, we will describe in detail step-by-step instructions specifically for PVC window sills, noting at the end the features of mounting structures made of other materials.

Width and length of the window sill

Before buying materials, it is necessary to correctly measure the place where the window sill will stand. The length of the window sill is determined as follows:

measure the width of the opening near the window and from the side that is closer to the room and turns out to be longer;
at least 1 cm must be added to the maximum width of the opening on each side in order to hide the edges of the board in the slopes;
if the window sill sticks out, and is not flush with the wall, then you also need to take into account the lugs. Window sill parameters Window sill parameters

To determine the width of the window sill, you need to measure the width of the wall to the window. 1.5 - 2 cm are added to the result obtained to deepen the board into the window groove. This width is sufficient if you plan to install flush with the wall, which is feasible for flat walls.

Quarter window measurements

Note! When the walls are uneven, it is recommended to measure them on both sides of the window. This will allow you to adjust the window sill and install it evenly.

A protrusion can be provided, the size of which should not exceed 8 cm, so as not to interfere with the convection of air from the battery. After all, this will not only disrupt the uniform distribution of heat in the room, but also in cold weather will lead to damage to the window as a result of the formation of frost.

In accordance with the measurements obtained, the window sill is adjusted to the desired length and width. Now you can start installation.

Dismantling the old window

Fixing windows and sills

Window sill installation

Step 1. Try on the future window sill at the installation site. Trim the board if necessary.

Note! Cutting plastic and stone is recommended with a grinder, a jigsaw is more suitable for wood, MDF and chipboard.

Step 2. Make grooves in the walls with a puncher if necessary. The edges of the window sill will go into these recesses.

We prepare the opening with a puncher

Cut to size window sill

Step 3 Clean the installation surface of dust and debris.

Step 4. A window sill is inserted into the groove of the window profile, having previously removed the protective film from the inserted edge.

A window sill is inserted into the groove of the window profile, having previously removed the protective film from the inserted edge.

Step 5 Wedges of wood are laid under the windowsill, starting from the extreme ones and ending with the central ones. The underlays should not protrude beyond the wall and the inner edge of the window sill. The maximum distance between wedges should be 40 cm.

Foam with low-expanding foam

Step 6. . If there are deviations from the horizon, then they rule with the help of additional wedges.

Align the window sill on the spirit level

Note! The board should have a slope from the window to the inner edge of about 0.2 cm. This measure will prevent the accumulation of liquid near the window: the water will simply drain.

Flush wall installation

Step 7 A load is placed on the windowsill. The total load should be 10-20 kg.

Load is placed on the window sill

Step 8. After additionally checking the horizontal position of the window sill, proceed to fix it. For this, mounting foam is used. It is better to take professional foam and a special spray gun. Additional fixation to the window profile is carried out from the outside using self-tapping screws.

Foaming the window sill

Note! When the foam gets where it should not be, it is removed immediately with a cloth. If it has already hardened, then you can wipe the foam with the help of special solvents.

Step 9. After 24 hours, remove the load and cut off the excess foam.

Now you can install plugs from the ends, and remove the protective film.

If a decision is made to install a wooden window sill, then on the inside of the board, it is necessary to attach felt that has undergone antiseptic treatment with the help of a shred. The ends of stone window sills are also protected with a felt layer before installation. The rest of the installation takes place according to the same principle as for plastic products.

Installation of window sills

Thus, the installation of a window sill is not difficult, especially when it comes to a plastic board. The main thing is to observe accuracy in alignment during work and not to overdo it with mounting foam.

Video - Installation of a window sill

Style and design

Since metal-plastic windows are often white, PVC window sills were originally made only in this version. With the growing popularity of this product, different color schemes of both windows and window sills began to appear. Most often, a variation of white is wood imitation, which is used in bedrooms or in children's rooms. In addition, this option allows you to install modern structures in a wooden house that will not stand out externally, fitting into the concept of the building.

For the production of such products, laminated PVC films under the tree are used. To give the desired properties, additional impregnation with melamine resin is also carried out.

In this way, you can give the surface the look of any wood, be it oak, alder or cherry.

In addition, window sills with natural stone finishes, most often granite or marble, are also popular. Thanks to this solution, you can avoid buying an expensive and heavy product, but get an equally beautiful window design option. If you need to somehow decorate the room, which is especially often the case with a children's room, then you can resort to using colored options for window sills.

They can have a different texture and shape, which are selected according to the wishes of the client.

If we talk about convenience, then for each type of house there are options of different lengths and widths, so that you can manage the space as correctly as possible. Brick laying differs in width from the walls of a panel house, which is why the window sills here are different. If we talk about original design solutions, then you can make a window sill-tabletop that will perform two functions at once, thereby making it possible to do without buying a table.

This option will look good in small kitchens or bedrooms where you need to place many functional areas in a small space.

The use of a glossy or matte finish, original shapes and sizes - this is all that the owner of a PVC window sill can get. Often, such options are made to order and they cost a little more, but the appearance of a room with such an accessory will be inimitable. Each owner decides for himself what exactly to install in his home based on taste preferences and financial capabilities.

How to wash a window sill

When common home remedies such as: soap, soda, vinegar, tooth powder, chalk were powerless in the fight against pollution, special chemicals will come to the rescue. The choice of modern household chemicals will be able to cope with any contamination on the plastic surface. You only need to correctly formulate your problem to the sales assistant in the household chemicals department, emphasizing that you need a plastic cleaner.

Careful operation and regular maintenance will help to avoid problems associated with the laundering of difficult contaminants. The main thing is not to use metal scrapers and abrasives: they leave scratches in which dirt then accumulates.

As a decoration of the adjoining space, one should consider a waterfall, an alpine slide, a fountain, a wattle fence, a flower bed made of stones, a trellis, a rose garden, a mixborder, a dry stream.

Do-it-yourself installation of a window sill or use the services of a specialized construction team - it's up to you. In fact, the process of installing a window sill is not complicated, but it requires the availability or acquisition of the necessary tools, consumables (the remnants of which may no longer be useful) and work skills. If the first attempt to install a PVC plate with your own hands is unsuccessful, then the total cost of self-installation can be much more than the salary of the master.

Video: how to install a window sill with your own hands

What is a window sill made of?

The materials from which window sills are made today can be different. The type of window sill determines the method of its installation.

Wooden window sills

Wood, such as oak, cherry, pine, has long been the most common material from which window sills were made. Wooden window sills do not lose their connoisseurs to this day. The wood is pre-dried and treated with antiseptic solutions and varnish.

Wooden window sills

The main advantage of a wooden window sill board is its natural origin and noble appearance. But such material is expensive, and solid wood products are subject to deformation. To save the window sill, you need to protect it from exposure to abrasives, water and aggressive chemicals, as well as periodically renew the coating.

Wooden window sills

Glued laminated timber boards are less expensive and more resistant to external influences if they are made in compliance with the technology.

Chipboard and MDF

As a cheaper alternative to wood, many firms produce window boards made of chipboard or fiberboard. Products are covered with a special film on top. MDF is more durable and moisture resistant than chipboard. If the integrity of the film is violated, water that has fallen on the chipboard can lead to swelling and significant deformation. MDF is more expensive, but more stable.

Window sills made of wood shavings or fibers are very easy to clean. The main thing is not to use abrasives.

stone products

stone window sill

Connoisseurs of natural materials often prefer stone window sills. Most often it is granite or marble. Stone products are beautiful, each window sill has a unique pattern. But this pleasure is not cheap.

In addition, it is easy to leave a scratch on the polished surfaces of natural stone. Stone window sills easily absorb dirt, such as coffee, wine or tea stains. Yes, they have poor insulation. Due to the high cost and heavy weight, it is better to invite professionals to install a stone window sill.

Marble window sills

An alternative to a natural stone window sill is an acrylic-based artificial stone board. Such products are not inferior in strength, heat resistance and beauty, but at the same time they are cheaper and do not scratch.

Plastic window sills

PVC products in construction are becoming more and more popular every year. This also applies to plastic window sills, which have a whole list of advantages.

From above, window sills are covered with a laminating film, which can have different colors and patterns. This allows you to choose a product in accordance with the overall decorative line of the room.
Plastic is resistant to moisture and is not a breeding ground for microorganisms, including molds, which is especially appreciated by indoor plant lovers.
Modern plastic window sills, thanks to special stiffening ribs, tolerate mechanical loads well.
These products are easy to wash.
Do not deteriorate their qualities from exposure to direct sunlight.
Not afraid of temperature changes.
Excellent heat retention.
Easy to assemble by yourself. Plastic window sills under wood texture

The PVC window sill also has disadvantages:

non-natural origin of the material;
the laminating film, which performs a decorative role, can peel off and be easily scratched;
high temperatures, such as a hot pot, can cause the window sill to warp.

However, plastic window sills are most often used for installation on their own.

Plastic window sills

Installation subtleties

In order to install a new PVC window sill with your own hands, you need to properly install the structure. The installation process of such parts can be carried out using:

mounting foam and special glue, which are used to fix the window sill;
brackets for fixing;
profile for installing PVC products.

The easiest and most convenient option for installation would be the option with foam. The first step is to prepare wooden wedges that will serve as a support for the new window sill. They are placed over the entire surface of the prepared base.

It is important to check the evenness of the installation with a level and note the slope of the product. It is necessary that the bevel is directed into the room in order to give direction to the condensate not to the stove, but to the room

If there are any inconsistencies in these indicators, then the wooden wedges can be increased, or, conversely, reduced, depending on the situation.

All work is carried out in stages to avoid installation errors and unsatisfactory results. Once the wedges are of the right size, the free space between the sill and the base is covered with foam. So that the angle of inclination does not change, it is important to install weighting on the windowsill, which will give the necessary resistance, so the foam will harden correctly. For complete solidification, at least two or even three days should pass, after which you can remove the weighting and use the window sill.

The process of installing a window and a window sill goes step by step, and it is important to take into account all the steps in order to get a decent result in the end. This process is inextricably linked with the decoration of the walls, therefore, when planning the installation option, you need to think in advance how further work will be carried out.

If you plan to put a window sill before finishing with sandwich panels or drywall, then you do not need to ditch the bottom. Increasing the thickness, the plate will be pressed with the help of the finishing material.
If the slopes are lined with varnish or putty paint, then in this case it is necessary to ditch the surface.

If it is planned to use massive elements in the form of wooden panels, lining, cork, Venetian plaster for finishing the window, then it is important to take into account the protrusion of the slab, taking into account the thickness of the coating. Otherwise, it will be recessed inside the opening, which will not look aesthetically pleasing.

Thus, window replacement requires that the old concrete window sill is also removed and replaced with a new one. For the convenience of further work, it is desirable to remove the old structure without much damage to the masonry.

You can replace a heavy and outdated window sill with the help of a modern PVC product, which is not only light and strong enough, but also has a diverse appearance that can be matched to the style of the room, which is very convenient.

The work process is reduced to the following stages:

Installation of a new product, putting it into pre-prepared grooves.
Aligning the window sill with the window using wooden wedges.
The fixing process, when you can fix the window sill with mounting foam, which will provide excellent performance for many years.
The use of plugs, which can have a different shape. Depending on the design features of the window sill, they can be without ears, if the thickness of the product is quite large and there is a desire to make it look like a stone monolith, or with ears with a minimum thickness and a simple version of the window element.

To change the window sill quickly and correctly, it is important to complete all the steps, which include the dismantling of old structures, the installation of new ones and finishing work. This is important because improper removal of an old product will add unnecessary work, inaccuracies in installing a new one will lead to operational problems, and improper finishing work will affect the final appearance.

To remove the foam that remains after installation, you must first cut it with a clerical knife, and then apply a layer of tile adhesive, which must be puttied after drying. Only after that the surface can be painted or wallpapered.

PVC window sill marking

Following the turnkey plastic window installation technology, the plastic window sill should be installed after the plastic window has already been installed. In the previous article, I already talked about the fact that the tide with the window sill are installed at the same time.

In order to understand how to install a window sill on plastic windows, you need to understand for yourself that the most important operation in this process is the marking of the PVC window sill. Further, step-by-step verified instructions with a photo, and my video is at the end of the article.

First, take a piece of paper and a pencil. We draw a window in a section in width, in a simple way, in the form of an elongated rectangle. View from above. And we enter the value of the window width in our rectangle.

Secondly, we find the starting point of the markup. This is done in the following way. We remove the size of the window sill in length. We write the value above the rectangle. We get two numerical values in a column that need to be subtracted. As in school, in the first grade))).

The resulting difference is divided in half. And we get the main figure, which is determined by the starting point for marking the PVC window sill. This figure is equal to the distance from the edge of the window sill to the edge of the frame on each side.

Thus, after installing the window sill and slopes, we will have the same:

The side protrusions of the window sill - "ears" and
Slope angles

Thirdly, continuing the markup, we take two locksmith squares (90 degrees) with a scale of 30 cm and 50 cm. gap. The main thing to understand is that the position of the square is the future position of the cut-off window sill. It remains only to take the first dimension along the length of the window sill, and write down this dimension on our sheet of paper, on which the starting point for measuring has already been determined.

Fourthly, with the help of the second square, pressing it against the inner wall of the room, we fix the second size along the width of the window sill. After that, the last cutting line of the side protrusion is automatically obtained.

Similarly, dimensions are taken on the right side of the window sill.

After that, the markup is applied to the window sill itself.

This markup we've looked at is the simplest. It is made in a flat perpendicular opening.

It happens that the opening has a step configuration, then it is necessary to take several measurements. But, the principle of markup does not change.

Fifthly, if the opening has an angle, then the marking of the PVC window sill is carried out at an angle. To do this, as in the first case, we press a large square with one side against the window sill profile, and direct the other perpendicular side at an angle. Imagine that this will be the angular cut line. And we attach the second square to the inner wall of the room. The intersection point of the gons is the end point. We fix its value. Further, leaving the second small square in a fixed position, we again attach the large square to the window sill profile at 90 degrees. We fix the second value at the intersection of the squares.

Thus, the marking of the PVC window sill is done. It must also be said that the cutting line of the side protrusion can be either flush with the inner wall of the room, or recessed into this wall. It depends on whether the customer will make repairs after installing the window.

markup

Of course, before you put the window sill, it must be marked. We measure the width of the window block, let it be 140 cm. We will buy the window sill 15-20 centimeters longer, since it should go beyond the plane of the slopes by 7-10 cm (this is a matter of taste). So, we bought a 155-centimeter one. Let's put it aside for now.

We look closely at our window opening:

Everything is fine with us, the foam layer will turn out to be about 2-3 cm. If you get more, it would be better to raise the lower “slope”, for example, with a self-leveling floor. So the design will come out stronger (my personal opinion). Shortly before installation, the surface will need to be primed, do not forget.

Window sill marking

Next, we must find the exact middle of the window (we have 70 cm from the edges) and, accordingly, the exact middle of the window sill (77.5 cm). In addition, we draw their central axes with a pencil. It is from them that we will set aside all sizes so that the final result is symmetrical. As the article progresses, you will understand what I mean.

Now let's take the dimensions. There are four of them in total, I have labeled them A, B, C and D.

A - approximately equal to the width of the window block, perhaps a little more if space allows; but nothing less.
B - the distance between the corners of the draft slopes. As a rule, it is larger than A by several centimeters.
B is the distance between the far edge of our hero and the plane of the wall.

Under the window block there is a special groove about 2 cm deep, where it starts. You need to measure it from the groove, and not from the plane of the window, be careful. It is also highly desirable that the wall with the window has already been plastered. Let's gouge some plaster under the "ears" and measure B so that they start "inside" the plane of the wall.

All the cut edges with us will then simply be closed by slopes and a wall.

G is the total width of the window sill.

It is chosen in such a way that it would vertically close no more than half the thickness of the radiator under the window.

Otherwise, in cold weather, condensation will form on the windows, since the warm air from the radiator will not reach the windows. Usually the protrusion is 5-7 cm, it is already undesirable to do more. Installers often make this mistake.

Marked window sill

This is what our window sill will look like after marking:

cut off window sill

And after cutting like this:

Fitting

We try it on in place, insert it into the groove, manually set it approximately to the level, inspect it for jambs:

Everything is in order here, you can set the window sill in height. Since ancient times, wooden wedges have been used for this, but in general, anything can be used as supports. This time I conducted an experiment and did not use wedges, but ordinary self-tapping screws, which I set on a laser.

Needless to say, the experiment was only partially successful. The near edge was exposed easily and quickly, and with the far (what is included in the groove) there were difficulties. After all, who puts windows in our country? That's right, Uncle Vasya. And I did not take into account that the windows, in fact, may not stand strictly horizontally and even bend!

I had to put improvised means under the far edge, namely Penoplex insulation. It is necessary to ensure that there is no noticeable gap between the window sill and the window, that is, it must be tightly pressed against the window block from below.

It may be that the window is arcing. In this case, you need to choose the least evil. In my opinion, the main thing is the absence of a gap, and the unevenness of the surface is not particularly noticeable to the eye.

There are two requirements for the near edge: it must be strictly horizontal, and must be below the far edge, that is, the window sills are placed at a slope.

The slope is usually 5-10 mm per meter. That is, for a window sill 60 cm thick, the near edge should be located 3-6 mm lower than the far one. Such a bias is invisible to the eye.

And it is done in order to prevent puddles, for example, when watering flowers. The water will flow down. In principle, if you do not want to do a bias - do not do it. I'm just describing the general case. If you use wedges, push them behind the plane of the wall so that later they do not interfere and you do not have to pull them out.

It is more convenient when setting the slope to use not our product itself, but trimmings from it. Inserts one end into the groove, put a level on the cut and evaluate the slope. As soon as everything is set, we insert the “patient” again in place and see if there are any gaps and if the necessary slope is provided:

By the way, the photo shows that, firstly, I partially tore off the film from the far edge. I think it's clear why. Secondly, I aligned the central axes of the window and the window sill. We see that there are no gaps. If you use wedges, there is a possibility that they may move.

To prevent this from happening, you can coat them with a plaster solution, for example, alabaster. Then they won't go anywhere.

We can start installation.

Preparation for work

The preparatory stage includes measurements of the future structure, as well as all materials and tools, as well as preparing the window opening for the installation of a new window sill.

Before buying, you need to make several measurements, namely:

Window sill width. It is equal to the width of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.
Window sill length. Measured as the length of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.

It should be noted that a window sill that is too large and wide can significantly impair air circulation, therefore, water droplets will accumulate on the windows and their service life will be reduced.

From the tools, you should prepare or purchase:

Electric jigsaw or grinder.
Level.
Hammer.
Ruler corner.
Masking tape.

Materials you will need:

Construction foam.
Sealant.
End caps.
PVC panel of suitable size.
Plastic pads.

Surface preparation for window sill installation

First, you need to remove the old structure. This is done with a jigsaw or hacksaw. Next, you need to remove the cement screed around the edges.

Clear the area of debris, crumbling material, insulation and everything else. This will ensure that the new window sill is securely fastened. It is best to vacuum the base under the window sill, so you are guaranteed to reliably clean the base.

If you plan to install a window sill with ledges on the sides, then you should create small openings so that the panel enters easily. First, a wall is filed, then an opening of the desired size is knocked out with a hammer. The openings must be the same on both sides and such that the PVC panel can be easily inserted.

After cleaning the base under the window sill, it should be well primed to ensure adhesion of the mortar to level the base.

Preparatory stage of work

Before proceeding directly to the installation, it is necessary to prepare the workplace. To do this, you will need the following materials and tools:

level;
jigsaw;
roulette;
hacksaw;
pencil;
mounting foam;
foam gun;
perforator;
drills for puncher;
hammer;
chisel;
wooden bars;
bit.

The window sill is installed in such a way that it enters the side wall, so it will be necessary to cut out connectors about two centimeters deep in the slopes.

To carry out this procedure, you need to attach a plastic window sill to the wall and make appropriate marks on it with a marker, then carefully knock out the grooves. Such an operation requires maximum concentration and accuracy, otherwise it will take a long time to restore the slopes.

Important! In order to minimize damage to the slopes, they should be handled very carefully during the entire installation process. . Next, we move on to making recesses.

The slopes are made of gypsum plaster. In this case, the procedure can be carried out with a hammer or chisel.
Concrete slopes. Then you can make recesses for the plastic window sill using a perforator.

After performing all the above manipulations, it is necessary to clean the stand profile and the lower part of the window from pieces of plaster and dust, since these materials are used to install the window sill. Then the cleaned surfaces are moistened, it is better to use a primer for these purposes, which strengthens the surface.

Note! In order to prevent the appearance of drafts from the window, it is necessary to blow out all the cracks of the window frame well with foam. .

Foundation preparation

This step may take the most time, but it is actually the most important in the whole process.

See how the window is installed

It is important to assess whether there are any deviations from the horizontal plane. To do this, we apply a level or, along the lower edge of the frame, start up a projection from a laser level

In the future, the window sill will be set exactly on it, which can also lead to skew. If there are small deviations, then this is not a problem, it will be further described how they can be compensated.

We make grooves in the slopes, where the ends of the window sill will go. The edge of the frame will serve as a guide in this regard.

Pay attention to the edge of the stand on which the window stands, namely the lower edge of the frame.

In order to do everything right, you can use several methods. Using a laser plane builder, a horizontal line is projected onto the opening. From this line along the window, a measurement is made to the edge, the value is fixed. Further, the same distance is laid off from the same line, but already on the slope. If there is no level, then you can use either an ordinary level, which is placed close to the bottom line of the frame, aligned in a horizontal plane with a bubble indicator and a mark is made.

A straight line is applied that will connect our mark and the edge of the frame.

Slope preparation

With the help of a chisel or other suitable tool and a hammer, recesses of 1.5–2 cm are knocked out.

In the event that the level of the base will rise with the help of a foam block, it must be soaked in water for a short time. Due to its porosity, it absorbs moisture well, and if it takes too much from the solution on which it will be placed, there will be no setting. Wetting saturates the foam block with moisture, so setting will occur as well as possible.

The preparatory stage and its features

At this stage, it is necessary to measure the window sill and purchase material for self-installation.

Required tools:

Schemes for installing a window sill when using a stand profile.

building level;
electric jigsaw or file with fine teeth;
self-tapping screws;
electric or cordless screwdriver;
metal plates;
special linings (wooden blocks or very dense synthetic material);
mounting construction foam;
foam gun;
silicone.

The size of the system is performed by a tape measure. It should be 5-10 cm larger than the width of the window opening. It should be taken into account that if, when installing a wide device, it closes the heating radiator, then the movement of air flows in the room will be disturbed, and the temperature will change. Therefore, the most acceptable width is the one that will allow it to protrude from the wall level by no more than 8 cm. The length of the product must exceed the distance between the slopes so that the element can enter it by 2-3 cm. In addition, it must protrude beyond the slopes by 5 cm.

The design itself can be different: smooth, ribbed, rough. It all depends on personal preferences, the appearance of the window and the style of the interior.

At the same stage, it is necessary to remove all debris from the bottom of the wall on which the window sill will be installed. If there are peeling elements of the plaster, they must be removed. If a fairly large gap has formed, it must be repaired with a solution. Further installation can be carried out after its final solidification.

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