Flatboat. How to make a boat with your own hands: wood and plywood are a fisherman's best friend

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or water recreation. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is an essential item, and in populated areas, the production and leasing of watercraft is a profitable business. How boatmen make money in resorts, everyone knows that. However, in commercial classifiers, small boats do not belong to goods for which pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the request: is it possible at all, and how the boat is made by hand is quite popular. The answer to the first question is unequivocal: yes, and much easier than it is commonly believed. A good, spacious, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made far from the water without a boathouse and slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - this article is about this.

In preparing materials for this publication, the books "300 tips for boats, boats and motors" were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L.

completion 1974, "Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers" Handbook ed. G.M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and "Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction" L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints to the illustrations they are designated "Н74", "Н77" and "K.", respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allow them to be used more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader must have already asked questions: is it really that simple? Built - and swim? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a trail on a rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

• A boat just for myself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for used materials in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered, in which the distance from the coast is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
• A boat for yourself, a navigable pond of any size - an additional certificate for the right to operate a small boat (analogue of rights to motor vehicles) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by the local transport (water) inspection authorities. On board the boat, its registration number must be indicated in the prescribed form;


• The same as in PP. 1 and 2, the boat may have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a lifejacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
• Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - in addition, a license for the right of passenger or cargo transportation by water;
• All according to PP. 1-4, sailing or sailing-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman's certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
• The boat was made for sale, not a serial one - a license for the right to manufacture small craft.

I must say that in non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are massive, and in sparsely populated areas - indiscriminate. The water inspectorate has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or his criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What yes and what no?

The designs of small vessels are countless, however, for a beginner amateur when choosing a prototype you need to follow the trail. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat should be built according to a proven design and / or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, capacious in weight and volume, seaworthy enough for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable on waves, river currents and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;


3. The boat should be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and with an adult physically moderately developed assistant, load it for transportation;
4. The boat building technology should not include operations requiring special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the mistakes of the beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat be able to walk well and stay on the wave on the oars, under the engine and sail - to save fuel and good rest;
6. The cost of building a boat should be minimal;
7. If the boat is kept away from the body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for kart vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the upper trunk of a car.

In terms of the totality of qualities, in addition to the price of materials, a plywood boat will be the best choice for your first vessel. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be as much heavier and will last much less, except for the version with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, it is not further considered:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Planing vessels.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• Boats made of foam plastic, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and planks of rectangular shape, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boat.

The grounds for such "truncation" are as follows. All-metal self-made vessels by the transport inspection bodies are not surveyed and not registered due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in artisanal conditions.

Building a speedboat is not a business for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can tackle it, making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a go-kart boat, going to planing on a small wave under an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see eg. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade speedboat and its tests

A small catamaran, let it be known to the reader, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; eg foam can be widely used. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the hulls-floats) you can stand, walk, tumble as you like, you can put up a tent and even cook a barbecue there. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the question of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Boat exotic made of scrap materials is simply dangerous. For example, a single-hull foam boat will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for sailing only in a "paddling pool", or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by currents or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to being able to carry them, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer's certificate, and even then the water inspection looks at it through fingers. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of the simplest inflatable boat (see Fig.) To make sure: it is much more difficult to glue its seams in artisanal conditions than to build a more capacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and high-quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost a lot more expensive than the best plywood and epoxy.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue the safety bulkheads into the cylinder. The homemade "rubber band" will be one-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not in a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the reservoir is heavily overgrown - you will only have to mentally sum up your life. For its end is near.

Note: if you certainly want your boat not to build, but to glue it, then it is better to make it from ... scraps of water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How a boat is made from PVC pipes, see the video below.

Video: an example of a homemade boat made of PVC pipes

Which one to do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for the construction; people from time immemorial have been swimming. Let's try to figure out how to navigate this variety for a novice shipbuilder-navigator. For example, boats such as canoes (pos. 1 in the figure), kayaks, canoes or domestic shrimps are very popular, very seaworthy and at the same time not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, to manage them you need not only experience - great art. By the number of drowned people among newcomers, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top of the rating among small boats. In addition, such rigid-skinned boats are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (item 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dori (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and a green salaga can drive it. The curved contours in the bow make the fofan well viable on a wave in full load, and together with the "pot-bellied" hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of quite quickly, up to 20 km / h or more, to go under a sufficiently powerful motor in a transition ) mode. But, as we can see, the contours of the fofan are also double-curved, and it is heavy: to turn the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian Tuzik recreational and fishing boat (pos. 3; Russian because there is also an American Tuzik dinghy boat, see below) is light, but again with double curvature lines. The same applies to the sea sailboat, pos. 5, although under sail it is steadily kept on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull it ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement in a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be of single curvature, i.e. the surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small quiet inland waters the best choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. The Scythians in such conditions have established themselves as the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the Scythians are perfectly controlled on the current and in overgrown reservoirs. Water or algae simply have nothing to grab them.

Note: contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In waves, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to overturn.

In somewhat more difficult sailing conditions, in waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, the dinghy is easily recognizable by the bow transom-forspiegel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter makes the dinghy easier to rise on the wave, and the forespill makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and its own weight almost a record. Thanks to this, dinghy is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places far from the water: 2-3 seater dinghy on the upper trunk fits into the dimensions of a car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a Scythian - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) just on the floor in an apartment.

The dinghy under sail (pos. 7) is quite safe, but very flexible and therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. I learned how to manage this - you can safely go to the tiller / steering wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, the Golden Fish dinghy was widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas, you can often find seaworthy dinghyes. Outwardly, they look like a fofan squeezed along (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespiegel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be stopped on Dori. Dori boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen used to catch and fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the Dori are phenomenal: there are many known cases when large reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the Dori then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dori boats are known in 2 modifications: pure rowing bank and sailing (pos. 9). To manage a bank dori, you need to be a salted sailor from childhood, because their static stability is low. Sailing dori are not so capricious, a beginner who knows the basics of the movement of a ship under sail is able to learn how to operate it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dori. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than reinforcing a transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of sinking a part or tool.

Alphabet truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a project that is technically competent and suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small vessels. So let's start with theory.

Walking speed

The speed of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the bow wavelength of the vessel grows rapidly, see fig .:

In this case, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The motor goes into the “fuel burn” mode, at the same time quickly burning up its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not able to pull the ship by Fr\u003e 0.3. This is an important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by placing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and you will burn the money for fuel in vain. If the recommended motor power is not indicated in the boat project, it can be determined from table. on the trail. fig.

Movement at a Fr value that is too large for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may appear to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to move back from the bow wave and bury itself astern into the water. If, frightened by the wave that has risen in front of the bow, the gas is thrown off sharply, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the oncoming wave: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The consumption of energy driving the ship for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the ship's length to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability decrease. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its front line along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with a backed skin (see items 2 and 4 in the figure with the types of boats). The ribs singing in the casing turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the nasal wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent speed of the combat boats of the Vikings, Drakkars and Augers. Unfortunately, backed cladding is technologically complex, prone to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (at rest) and dynamic on the move. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the overturning moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.

The value of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacentre M above the center of gravity G (see Fig.). A vessel with a large elevation M over G will be very stable, but also very roll, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacentre first "runs" upward from the center of gravity, and then moves back. When M is below G, the overturning moment exceeds the recovery moment and the boat capsizes. Corresponding the angle Θ for decked ships is called the sunset angle. The critical heel for undecked vessels will be that at which the vessel scoops sideways. Then Θ is called the pouring angle.

The stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. On the one hand, this is bad for small vessels, because a small craft is less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat goes with a critical list, then the roll of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barge is almost invisible. When in the old days the captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from the storm, ordered "to set sails, as long as the masts can withstand," they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less correct small displacement vessel will be more static. In order for the boat, which is stable in the parking lot, to capsize on the move, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship is turning from the rudder. The vessel turns obliquely oncoming the oncoming stream of water, and the rudder only helps it to be substituted under it, see fig. on right. True, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in there: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is in fact the projection of the center of rotation of the CV on the main plane (see below). Hence, there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on a rudder that is too small. Its optimal area is approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe hull amidships, i.e. across the widest part. Check and, if it matches, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.

The position of the CG is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally... In a perfectly steerable, non-bankable vessel, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what the designers are aiming for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with a roll. Romantic, but also dangerous because the boat's controllability decreases, which increases the danger of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general, this is correct. Diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see fig. From there it is also clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CPU and CLS are highly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the sailing armament is not provided for by the project of the boat, do not put a "samopal" As a last resort and under perfectly favorable circumstances, you can build an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine is dead, it is far from the shore, rowing is exhausted, but the wind is weak and the excitement is insignificant.

The interaction of the sail's thrust forces and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment tending to bring it to the wind, i.e. turn your nose exactly against the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will receive the wave on the bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far forward from the CLS, the ship will become difficult to control or generally uncontrollable: it will be driven to the wind, no matter how much the tiller turns; it's not far from here to disaster.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes with respect to the wind, both the CPU and CLS shift. If the CPU is behind the CLS, the vessel will begin to roll away into the wind ("wants" to become stern to it), which threatens to disaster. Hence the most important conclusion: without proper knowledge of maritime affairs, do not experiment with sails! You risk making an “overkill turn” in a gentle wind on calm water!

So that a vessel without a large bottom deadrise and contours specially designed for sails could carry sailing equipment, lifting keels - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells are used, see Fig. on right. If there is a sail in the project, but there are no centerboard drawings, we reject, illiterate. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail, stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of a hull set). Technically, it's the same as clipping the wings of an airplane or trying to fit them, tail and jet engine to the bus.

Outlines and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 fig., And in pos. 2 - the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midship plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Cutting with diagonals and building fish are used in drawings of large enough vessels, performed on a small scale, to check the coincidence of lines. On the theoretical drawings of small vessels, instead of fish, they often give a combatant along the frames, see below.

Already by looking at the theoretical drawing, one can estimate at what Froude numbers a given ship is capable of sailing. For example, a boat at pos. 5 - semi-displacement. Next, you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

• The distances from the DP to the water lines of the overhead line on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from the OP. Taking into account the scale, since the projection of the body, necessary for constructing patterns and templates of frames, is most often given on an enlarged scale (see pos. 4).
• The distances from the base to the buttocks should be equal to the distances from the base to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same secant plane parallel to the base, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the sailing performance of the vessel: using the trapezium method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined by frames and segments, respectively the lengths are laid along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. the distance between the sections along the frames. The envelope of the segments, the so-called. marching on frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

Forming a combatant along frames is similar to applying the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water, its action affects any speed, and not transonic. Secondly, the ship's hull is only partially submerged in water and therefore excites gravitational waves in motion, not pressures. Therefore, the combatant on the frames should not look like a drop, but the body of an ogival shape, like an artillery shell. The more flatter the front line on the frames, the more salable the vessel will be, and the wide front line indicates its good controllability. The "tail" at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the "beak" at the front - about good germination on the wave, but at the same time about the tendency to yaw.

Note: in addition to the frames, according to the theoretical drawing, the true bypass of the inclined transom is built, see fig .:

Materials

Wood and plywood

The basic materials of construction for the boat require some pretreatment. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be abundantly impregnated with a water-soluble wood preservative (biocide). Not oily, it will not be in the air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying in order to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the veneer is wooden as it is. Further, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of the boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of wood, three or four times more. The method of gluing wooden parts correctly and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They differ from the construction ones!

Plywood sheets larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are pre-glued into strips of the required length with a mustache connection, see Fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. One can only advise to round the mustache with a rough planer, and finish it with a grinder or a flat bar wrapped in sandpaper. The sheets are glued with epoxy glue. The quality of the burr is checked by the trace. way:

• Cut off a strip approx. 10 cm. This is almost always possible because curved details will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of good quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except for it.

Type-setting boat hulls are assembled on red-copper nails (holes must be drilled under them), galvanized or tapered screws. Red-copper nails are bitten and riveted in washers; galvanized bend. Holes are drilled for screws; for their sizes, techniques for working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: Recently, quite a lot of amateurs have been assembling boats on furniture screws-confirmations, using the same technological methods as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For the time being, these boats are floating, but not for long in order to judge their reliability for a long time.

Fiberglass

Epoxy glued glass cloth is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about her: they say, he didn't swim until the fall - it started flowing. The reason is the paraffin that is used to coat the fiberglass before spinning and weaving it. Paraffin is removed from fiberglass by boiling in water. You cannot burn out, the fabric will become fragile! The fiberglass is boiled in a clean dish for at least half an hour, then the dish with the contents is allowed to cool completely, the paraffin crust is removed from the surface of the water, and only then the fiberglass is removed.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing the parts of a set of extruded EPS polystyrene foam is an effective way to increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing on epoxy glue is technologically simple and gives a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the step of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are rounded to form a wedge-shaped joint with a base width of 1.5-2 mm;
3. If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts with staples, put the blank on the keel blocks (see below) and sew the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the tragus, the sides are sewn on;
4. Expose the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. When the glue hardens, the seams are also glued from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see the picture above). It is not necessary to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water flow;
6. When the last gluing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. Remove the body from the keel blocks (tragus), bite off the staples from the outside flush and paste over the outside seams with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. Frames, a centerboard well, banks (seats), a breastplate (see below), a gunwale, a fender, etc. are glued into the body, which is needed according to the project;
9. Additional equipment and finishing are performed.

How to make a boat?

We sew

In the projects of boats, kartop dingis and skiffs, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on \u200b\u200bkeel blocks or tragus, see fig. Sewn on a dry case is exposed along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The stitching seams of the sheets, as the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as the most loaded and prone to damage.

We build

The construction of a sharp-chinned boat with a larger capacity than a sewn one with single-curvature lines begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of the frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is so uneconomical - too much rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane, onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing are transferred at a scale of 1: 1. If the outlines of the boat are simple, and there is little space, only the projection of the hull can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, with increasing strength, complexity and weight, are given in Fig. Keel grooves and stringers are pre-selected.

Further, the frame frames are placed on the frame (pos. And on the next figure), set vertically, by contours, a keel bar, stem (see below), fenders and stringers are attached. After that, the set of the body is covered with a flat bar (pos. B). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be trimmed to a given dead-lift; secondly, to check if the double curvature section is worn in somewhere, and so on. trim the bottom edges of the floorboards. Then sheathing is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After that, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: some amateurs after malkovka trash against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the casing from the set on the sheets of packing cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with the geometry according to the theoretical drawing, and the boats do not float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and responsible part of the body kit. One of the immutable rules for the safety of navigation says: if the danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on the bow. Therefore, the manufacture of the stem of the boat should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of the bow boats are shown in Fig. Solid, non-rotting wood waterstop plugs prevent water from seeping into the case. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. The false bow stem is used in kart boats with a narrow forespigel.

On excitement and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to expand the body, therefore it is reinforced with an insert-bristle. It is often neglected by amateur boatbuilders or does not know at all what it is; this is one of the essential reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the kit, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 HP is given in Fig. on right. Overall, with reinforcement, transom thickness - from 40 mm. Possibly More: Some outboard motor alignment clamps do not converge by less than 50-60mm.

Unsinkability

An unsinkable boat is a radical way to avoid the severe consequences of accidents on the water. It is quite simple to make a non-decked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the banks and on the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern can be fenced off acc. forepeak and afterpeak and fill with foam. The volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters m is calculated by the formula V \u003d 1.2W (1 + ρ), where W is the displacement in t, 1 is the density of fresh water, ρ is the mass density of the foam. For example, if ρ \u003d 0.08 tf / cu. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons, 0.324 cubic meters will be needed. m or 324 cubic meters. dm of foam. It seems to be a lot, but in a 3 m long dinghy boat such an amount is accommodated without a noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure boat and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets for human capacity, an anchor on a chain or rope, a mooring end and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) navigation light of all-round visibility. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now on sale there are standalone LED lamps the size of a child's cam with a built-in solar panel and rechargeable battery. The anchor deserves special attention from this set.

Anchor

Joseph Konrad called the anchors "honest pieces of iron," and no wonder: the anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small boats are most often supplied with cat anchors, but this is far from the best option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. On sale there are cat anchors with paws that fold back with a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the ship can spontaneously de-anchor just when you need to keep on it tightly. Secondly, a cat, like a classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the vessel can land with its bottom on the anchor leg sticking up.

Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors of increased holding power are also produced for small vessels. They are quite expensive, but you cannot make them yourself, you need cast parts. You can independently make a Kurbatov welded anchor (see Fig.), It is suitable for boats up to 5 m long.If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils, a load is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line) - ingot in 2-3 kg.

Suddenly Kurbatov's anchor will get stuck in the stones, the pig must be lifted before releasing it. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released by a strong sharp jerk by the cable. This may damage parts 4 and 8, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with a hammer and pliers.

About anchor attachment

In the butt of the anchor, it is necessary to thread an eyelet during manufacture - a steel ring freely dangling in it. The ring is also supplied with the gum-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable / chain to the ship's hull. The eyelets significantly reduce the wear of the cable / chain and the likelihood of their sudden breakage.

Zhvaka-tack is attached from the outside to the stem. You need to fasten the gum-tack lower, above the waterline itself. In this case, the boat at anchor will play better on the wave, not bury itself into the water on waves, and the probability of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Sample projects

There are enough good projects of kartop boats, dinghy and Scythians in Runet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on boat projects more extensively.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D.A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the upper trunk of a passenger car, are shown in Fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme low cost: the main material is boards, and there is a small size on the bottom, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right planks for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, today the seams between the boards can be caulked with a construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. fig. drawings of parts of this boat are given and a method of its assembly is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway according to templates. The transom is amplified under the motor as described above.

Further in Fig. shows the sailing equipment of this boat and drawings of oars for it. The sail is raked (emphasis on "o"), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, completely without knowing the theory. But - don't put this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of the rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more strongly, and she is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats do not go very easily with oars, therefore, in order to save the muscular efforts of the rower, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades are of great importance.

About the iron day

Scythian boats are sometimes made with galvanized iron bottoms. Such a boat, firstly, with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can turn it as you like alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic reaction of water, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil the glue and protective coatings. There is only one drawback for home-made boats with a steel bottom: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not look.

Dory

The same author also developed a project for a sailing boat dori made of plywood, see fig; according to the table of plazovy ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short steep "evil" wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis puddle in the Baltic), this boat has shown itself better than a sea boat or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on the slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the set are shown. Wood must be used of high quality, without knots and defects, because the wooden parts of the set are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Fig given drawings of the sailing equipment of the dori. Since the dori can sail in a fairly strong wind, it is envisaged to take one reef on sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: Dori boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and CLS!

Finally

After swimming, especially in cool weather, you want, need and be healthy, eat and sip something hot. Not intoxicating, on water it is necessary to observe dry law. Therefore, in conclusion, we give drawings of the stove - a boat and yacht fire, which can also be useful in the country, a picnic and in general on the farm.

vopros-remont.ru

We make a small boat

Note. We will not consider a specific design, for example, do-it-yourself drawings of a folding boat made of plywood.
Our goal is to tell you about the general principles and methods of making small craft.

Required materials and tools

Plywood selection:

• to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, you, of course, will need this very plywood, only of different thicknesses;
• for the body you will need a sheet thickness of 5 mm, but for the keel and frame you will already need 10-15 mm thick (select the panel length depending on the length of the body);
• as you understand, high-quality products are needed here, therefore, you will have to choose either elite E or 1st grade for work - the price, of course, will be higher, but the quality will rise along with it;
• in addition, impregnation of wood veneer is important, on which the water resistance and strength of plywood depends - the best brands here are FSF or FSF-TV (flammable), FB and BS (aviation - also used in shipbuilding).

Solid wood:

• for decorating the sides, installing seats and arranging struts inside the boat hull, you will need solid wood;
• the pine edged board is best suited for this purpose - it is lighter than larch, but due to the resin content, it tolerates wet well.

Suture material:

• to tighten the body and connect other parts into a one-piece structure, suture material is needed here;
• for this you can use thin knitting steel or copper wire, thick nylon fishing line or plastic clamps.

Tightness:

• in order for the boat not to leak, all the seams must be sealed with water-repellent glue - at the moment there are a lot of them on sale;
• as practice shows, compositions based on polymer resins are best suited for this purpose;
• fiberglass is also used to seal the seams - a tape from it is planted on glue along the joint;
• it is also possible to use fiberglass for this purpose, pasting the sides and bottom with it;
• to protect against swelling, water-repellent varnishes and adhesives are used, impregnating the body and lintels with them - for this you can, for example, use bakelite varnish or glue;
• in addition to impregnation, you will also need polymer paint to complement the moisture resistance and decorate your boat.

Tools:

• to make a boat with your own hands from plywood, of course, you will need tools and, first of all, this is a circular saw and / or an electric jigsaw (a hacksaw is also useful);
• a set of hand carpentry tools in the form of a hammer, chisels, pliers, and the like;
• grinding disc or belt machine;
• tape or steel clamps;
• paint brushes for applying impregnations and paints and varnishes.

Choosing a drawing

Important!
Before you start assembling, find the drawings that are suitable for your case - how to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, it can be a flat-bottomed fishing boat that you will use on weekends or a kayak for hiking trips on vacation.
But if you are already experienced in "shipbuilding", then you can try to draw such a project yourself, but here it is very important to calculate the carrying capacity so that the floating craft does not capsize during operation.

So, if you specifically know for what purpose you need a boat, then you can search in special literature, magazines, the Internet, or draw up a drawing yourself for making a boat from plywood with your own hands, which is most suitable for you. When the choice is made, do not rush to immediately apply the contours of the part to the plywood or board - first make paper templates of all the parts in accordance with the dimensions of the project that you have chosen.

Of course, it is best if you use a solid material for the manufacture of parts, but, unfortunately, it is not always possible to find a sheet of the required length. Then the two blanks are glued together "on the mustache", as shown in the upper image. The main requirement for the formation of the joint is that the length of the bevel cut is about 7-10 times greater than the thickness of the workpiece.

For example, if this is a side piece and you use 5 mm plywood there, then the cut length should be between 35 mm and 50 mm. To make the connection strong, it is smeared with glue and clamped with clamps for the period of the final hardening of the composition that you are using (the manufacturer always comes with instructions that indicate the hardening time).

While the connected workpieces are drying, you can start preparing wooden blocks, from which, according to your drawing, the frame of the future floating craft will be made.

Recommendation. It should be noted that it is very inconvenient to assemble projects of boats from plywood with your own hands on the floor or on the ground.
Therefore, to make assembly easier, you can make goats 60-80 cm high (depending on your height).
For this design, 50 × 50 mm bars are suitable.

Assembling the case

We will assume that you have already cut out the paper templates and now transfer them to the wood - plywood and boards. In order to prevent the template from sliding off when tracing the contours, you can fix it with buttons or even office glue, which you can then wash off or clean with sandpaper.

Please note that the maximum tolerance for error in dimensions can be no more than a millimeter in one direction or the other. Otherwise, the details simply won't fit.

Cut the parts with a hacksaw, circular or jigsaw, and then glue the transom parts and frames to get the desired thickness and strength. You will likely notice that the glued parts are unusually heavy, but this does not matter to the project as a whole.

If you intend to use a motor for the boat, then the transom stern should be reinforced with fiberglass, and on the edges a board made of hardwood, for example, larch.

Recommendation. To increase the strength of the joints of the transoms and frames, the joints can be reinforced with self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating.
But the length of the screw should be such that it cannot pierce the part through, that is, it should be slightly shorter.

Now you install the transom on the trestle and start attaching the prepared parts for the sides and bottom to it, which are brought together in one place on the bow of the boat. The fastening of the parts, as you already understood, is done using your suture material. It is very important that all the joints come together, and if you cut them correctly, then there should be no problems.

In this case, epoxy resin and silicon dioxide in a ratio of 1/1, with the consistency of thick sour cream, were used to glue the seams. Corner joints are reinforced with fillets in the form of a triangular profile.

After the seams, sealed with fiberglass inside and outside, dry out, insert and glue the frames (the glue remains the same). If the width of the boat is large, then the joining of the frames can be reinforced with overlapping fiberglass strips.

After that, on the bottom of the boat, we lay the flooring of boards, and also mount the oarlocks and seats. In those cases when on the craft the drawings-patterns of a boat made of plywood with their own hands provide for a cocklit or a cover to create a niche in the bow, then this part is fixed with glue or self-tapping screws to the sides and frames.

Now you need to wait until the entire assembled structure is completely dry. After that, the boat is turned upside down (on a trestle or laid on the ground) and the entire surface is sanded from the outside using a disk or belt sander.

By the way, the seams with fiberglass from the outside are glued just after polishing the wooden surface. And, although this type of work has already been mentioned, it is performed in advance only on polished plywood such as Ш1 or Ш2.

Now you can start impregnating and painting. Targeted preparations for marine and river structures from the Tikkurila firm are well suited for impregnation. The entire plane is putty with a special primer, and so that no seams are visible. Then you can paint the boat in the color you like.

Conclusion

If you are punctual, that is, you begin to strictly adhere to the dimensions indicated in the project, then you should succeed. If you have any thematic questions, you can write to us about it in the comments.

rubankom.com

Dimensions and Drawings

The first thing to do is decide on the size of the boat. We will make a boat 3000 mm long, 1400 wide and 500 mm high.
Let's decide on the length of the base of the frame. To do this, we need to know the length of the boat, two angles a and b, and the height of the boat.

We know the length and height - 3000mm and 500mm. Angle a - 100, angle b - 120.

Knowing these values, we calculate the length of the base of the frame.

L \u003d 3000- (h * tg (a-90) + h * tg (b-90)) \u003d 2623, where h is the height of the boat

Now we will find the length of the nose and transom. Since they are inclined, their length will be greater than the height of the boat.

L transom \u003d √ (〖(h * tan (a-90))〗 ^ 2 + h ^ 2) \u003d 508

L nose \u003d √ (〖(h * tg (b-90))〗 ^ 2 + h ^ 2) \u003d 577

It is necessary to determine the width of the bottom. Let's take half of the boat's width - 700 mm. The lower transom width will be 10% less, i.e. 630 mm. The boat reaches its maximum width in 1/3 of the transom.

In our case, the maximum width will be 1000 mm from the end of the boat. Thus, we transform the beam, so that the maximum bend was at the point 1/3 * the length of the boat from the transom.

The length of the plywood for the board will be equal to the length of the transformed beams (top and bottom, respectively). The width will be equal to the length of the bow on one side and the length of the transom on the other.

Other dimensions depend on the situation.

Boat frame

The basis will be a beam of 50 * 50 * 2523 mm. To it, on one side, we fasten the transom 50 * 50 * 630 mm, at an angle of 90 degrees. From the ends of the trance we fasten the deformed beams to the nose (the maximum convexity of the beam is 1000 mm from the transom).

We make 6 equally spaced cuts along the entire base (from the bottom side). The dimensions of the cutouts are 50 * 25 mm. We insert 6 beams 25 * 25 mm along the cutouts. We attach them to the base and side beams. The bottom of the frame is ready.

We fasten the nose and transom. Between the nose and the transom, we again fasten the deformed beams, but now at the top. The distance between the side beams is 500 mm in height and 350 mm in width. In fact, the sides are located at an angle to the base (angle, approximately 120 degrees at the point of maximum convexity).

We make a frame for the sides

Note. Pay attention to how the beams are screwed: from the edge of the upper to the edge of the lower beam. It is important!
For this we use a bar of 25 * 25 mm.

Frame sheathing

We fasten the plywood to the beams with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. First, we fix the sides. The plywood should fit snugly against the frame.

samodelkifish.ru

DIY plywood boat

A small craft, which is able to take 2-3 anglers on board, and is not very heavy, can be easily made of plywood, as one of the most affordable building materials. Moreover, the boat can move with the help of oars, and with the help of a boat motor or sail. This does not require special, professional training, which is quite feasible even for beginners.

Plywood is durable enough to build a small boat, not to mention expensive yachts, where plywood is also widely used in their manufacture. In addition, it is easy to process using electrical or manual devices.

In addition, if a motor is installed on such a boat, then it can develop a solid speed with not bad running characteristics. In addition, a plywood boat is much more reliable than an inflatable boat.

Materials and tools

Firstly, you will have to choose a room that is appropriate for the mercy, where the boat could freely accommodate. It is advisable that the room be heated, since all work can take place in winter. In the summer, hardly anyone will start building a boat: in the summer you need to sail on it. Moreover, the room must be ventilated, with the ability to maintain optimal temperature conditions. Since you will have to work with wood, the humidity should be optimal.

To draw a diagram, you need to have:

• drawing accessories;
• the pencils;
• rubber bands;
• patterns;
• rulers and triangles;
• flight bus;
• cardboard and drawing paper;
• paper glue;
• calculator.

At the construction stage you will need:

• jigsaw;
• a hammer;
• ax;
• clamps (up to 10 pieces, not less);
• brushes, spatulas (metal and rubber);
• screwdriver;
• electric and manual planer;
• screwdrivers;
• chisels;
• stapler;
• circular and hand saw.

Materials for manufacturing can be:

• plywood (sheet 1.5x1.5 meters), 4-5 mm thick;
• pine or oak boards;
• fiberglass for pasting the boat hull;
• putty for filling cracks;
• waterproof glue;
• linseed oil or water-repellent impregnation for wood;
• oil paint or waterproof enamel;
• nails, screws, screws;
• metal strip, metal for various fasteners.

Basic boat dimensions

If you use plywood with a thickness of 5 mm, then the following dimensions will be optimal:

1. The total length of the craft is 4.5 meters.
2. The width of the craft (at its widest point) is 1.05 m.
3. The depth of the boat is 0.4 meters.

What the boat consists of

The boat consists of a key element - the keel, which serves as a base and to which other boat elements are attached. The bow of the boat is called the stem and on the back is the stern. With the help of these components, the boat is given longitudinal rigidity. Such structural details can be made from a single piece of wood or separate components connected by gluing, as well as knocked down by nails or twisted with screws.

The shape of the hull is determined by the presence of transverse load-bearing elements, which are called frames. The boards connected to the frames, stem and sternpost form the sides of the boat.

If this frame is sheathed with plywood, then you get a boat. The inside of the boat is covered with a slate, which is the lower deck to protect the bottom of the boat.

Plywood boats for motor

Motor boats are not particularly different for their design considerations, compared to boats designed to move under oars or sail. The only difference lies in the organization of the place for mounting the engine. As a rule, a transom board is attached to the stern, where the outboard motor is installed.

Some structures of small boats are equipped with other elements, such as a cockpit, deck stringers, side stringers, etc. To improve stability and unsinkability, special gaps are provided in the floating craft, which are filled with foam. This approach eliminates the possibility of the boat sinking if it capsizes.

Boat working drawings

All work on building a boat begins with drawings, which must be drawn up professionally. If this is not possible, then you can turn to the Internet for help, where you can find ready-made drawings. The main thing is that they correspond to the main imaginations. But here, too, you need to be careful not to skip the main stages of assembling the boat and manufacturing additional units.

Typically, most drawings are drawn on graph paper. This will make it possible to calculate in detail all the nodes of the structure.

A large sketch of a drawing can be drawn using the following algorithm:

• A line is drawn that conventionally divides the boat into two parts. This takes into account the fact that the two parts, left and right, must be symmetrical and absolutely identical.
• The drawn line is divided into several equal segments. Subsequently, frames will be installed in these sections.
• Both the vertical display and the projection from above are drawn.
• The shapes of the frames are drawn along the transverse marks.
• The basic dimensions of all components are checked to scale.
• The shape of the frames is drawn on a 1: 1 scale on cardboard or thick paper.
• The flexible lines of the boat shape are drawn using a ruler or template.

The resulting pattern is folded along the drawn line to check for symmetry. Both parts must repeat each other flawlessly.

Transferring a drawing to a wooden blank

After the next check of the drawings for correctness, they are transferred to cardboard. Thick and stiff paper will facilitate the transfer of drawings to workpieces. The drawing is transferred to the workpiece, taking into account all the contours and outlines exactly as it is drawn, without all kinds of overlaps, reductions and increases in size.

When copying pictures, take into account the grain direction of the wood. In this case, it all depends on the design of the boat's elements. If the element is made of plywood, then the layers of plywood themselves are arranged in such a way that the fibers of each subsequent layer are perpendicular to the previous layer.

As for the manufacture of fooxes, they can be made larger, in height, since they can then be cut off.

Technological stages of manufacturing

To build a boat out of plywood with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:

• transfer the drawing to the template;
• transfer pictures from templates to the tree;
• install the keel and fix the stem;
• fix the frames;
• fix the ochterpost and transom board (for the motor);
• sheathe the bottom with plywood;
• sheathe the sides;
• to seal joints and stringers;
• putty and paint the boat hull.

Boat hull

The skeleton of the boat and its hull are assembled from prepared parts. The assembly process must be carried out carefully and carefully, in all planes.

The frames are first attached to the keel in advance and only after the next control are finally fixed. Moreover, the fastening must be reliable, since the boat will have to be turned over before sheathing it with plywood.

Putting together the inner contour of the foots

The strength of the structure, including the sides, depends on how reliable the foothboxes are. Footboxes are an integral part of the frame structure, which consists of floorboards and two footboxes.

Florimbers is the lower part of the frame that is designed to be attached to the keel. Footboxes are the side parts of the frames to which the sides of the boat are attached. Fastening points for foothboxes and floorboards are structurally made somewhat wider, which increases the stability of the entire structure. This is especially important for watercraft, where motors will be installed, which increase the load on the structure in general and during movement in particular.

Stem material

The stem has a complex shape, which is due to the loads acting on it during the movement of the boat. Oak can be one of the most suitable materials for its manufacture, but, as a last resort, you can use elm.

Lucky if you can find a piece of a suitable tree that has a natural bend. If this is not possible, then you can make the stem from individual elements by gluing. If you want to have a solid structure, then you need to take an ax and other tools and cut it down according to the shape of the boat.

Keel design

The keel is the simplest component of a boat's structure and is a typical plank, 25-30 mm thick and 3.5 m long.

Side boards

To do this, choose healthy, even and knot-free boards, 150 mm wide and up to 5 m long.

Making a transom

The transom is intended for attaching the outboard motor. The transom board should be 25 mm thick. If plywood is used, it is better to glue several layers so that you end up with a suitable thickness (20-25 mm). The base for mounting the motor must be rigid, so its thickness should not be less than 20 mm. If necessary, the transom board is reinforced from above with a wooden block. In this case, it all depends on how the outboard motor is attached.

Boat frame fabrication

The frame is assembled in the following sequence:

• keel is installed;
• pins are installed;
• the places for the installation of frames are marked;
• installation of frames;
• fastening frames, pins and transom to side boards;
• checking the correctness of installation of all elements, before their final fastening;
• it is advisable to treat the joints of structural elements with a water-resistant composition or drying oil.

Plywood boat sheathing

According to the working drawing, blanks are cut out of plywood for sheathing the boat hull.

Subsequently:

• the boat frame tilts upside down;
• all surfaces of the keel and frames are treated with emery cloth and made absolutely even;
• the details of the bottom of the boat are installed in their place and fixed with a stapler, after which the attachment points are pierced with nails;
• the side sheathing elements are first tried on, and then fastened in the same way as when fastening the bottom;
• when gluing blanks, you should pay attention to the direction of the fibers of the outer layer of plywood. They should be positioned along, not across the boat.

Working with glue

Work with glue is aimed at obtaining a solid structure, and, on occasion, filling seams or cracks with it. When working with plywood, all joints of the workpiece with the keel and frames are glued. After punching with nails, the glue is used to fill the connection zones of the plywood with the supporting elements, if they do not fit tightly.

To improve the strength and driving performance of the watercraft, the plywood sheathing is pasted over with fiberglass. This protection of the wooden structure increases the durability of the boat. The fiberglass fabric is evenly distributed over the plane of the sheathing, and wrinkles or bubbles are not desirable, which indicates poor quality of work. The fabric is glued from the keel towards the sideboards.

Painting

As soon as the surface of the boat dries well, proceed to the next stage - putty and painting. Ready-made putty mixtures on an artificial basis are perfect. The boat is painted in two stages: first, a primer coat is applied, and then one or two coats of paint.

Do you want to assemble a skiff punt boat with your own hands. These boats are widely used in the lower reaches of large rivers that flow into the Atlantic Ocean. And on the eastern coasts of Canada and the United States. This punt boat has a moderate hull length to the minimum width of the bottom of the boat and is equal to 3.5: 1. Therefore, the boat is very light under oars and has good stability for sailing. The bend of the keel of the boat allows you to swim in shallow water, it runs aground in the middle part of the bottom, so it is not difficult to manually remove it from the shallows.

This punt can be used on the wave as it has a high freeboard in the bow and camber along its entire length. The bottom of this flat-bottomed boat is wide enough, so you can put a motor up to 8hp. The fin under the stern provides stability in the course of the boat. She also has a good carrying capacity, you can safely put seven people. And do not worry that the boat will capsize or flood it with water. Sheathe the body with 20 mm thick spruce or pine planks. Stitch these boards on both sides. The bottom is sheathed with transverse boards. This option is better than longitudinal boarding.

1. The boards are no more than 1 meter long, and therefore it is easy to find quality material.

2. Such boards are easier to fit together and fix them on the cheekbone.

3. The frame frames are not needed, since the span of the transverse board from the keel to the cheekbone is half a meter.

As well as between frames when sheathing with longitudinal boards. Before building a punt boat there, stock up on boards 120 - 150 mm wide. If the boards are 6 meters long, then 15 boards are needed. Dry them well and stitch them on both sides. And stitch the edges with a jointer. Fold a couple of boards into rails for fenders 4, zygomatic stringer 5, collar 22, and podlegars 7. For the transom, use the widest board. Chip off the shield from two planks, mark the outline of the transom on the shield and cut it off with a hacksaw. Between the lower and upper boards there is a groove, cover it inside with a rail 16, it is also a support for the stern beam and the seat. 11 Inside the boat, nail in 15 ribs, to which boards are attached to the boards for sheathing the sides. Cut the stem out of a 75X130X650 mm bar.

Remove the bevels from the side faces and, using a chisel and chisel, select the tongue-and-groove piles for the skin according to the marking. Do this carefully, for this take a rail and, attaching it to the frame line, make several nests as in the figure. When you have achieved the desired angle and the desired depth of the nests, cut off the remaining sections until a solid tongue appears. To shape the punt body on the slipway, assemble two transverse templates. Boards 12-25 mm thick are suitable. Draw the outlines of the templates on plywood or paper and assemble along them. Sew the bottom edges of the shargen - planks 27, they serve as reference lines when assembling the boat hull. On the side slats of the templates, apply the risks of the LB - and on the bottom bar and shergen - the bar 27 - the risks of DP. On the cheekbone in the corners of the template, make cutouts for the cheekbones 5.

Collect the body on the slipway with the keel up. The slipway is made of a board 4.5 m long and 2-3 inches thick. The straightness of the upper edge of the slipway must be adjusted with a thread that is tightly pulled or. If you are assembling the boat in the open air, drive several stakes into the ground and attach a slipboard to them so that its verified upper edge is strictly horizontal. At the edge from above, pierce the DP line with a lined thread. Using blocks 24 and 26, attach the transom 14 and stem 1 to the slipway, adjust their slope and vertical position of the DP by the plumb line. Attach templates to the slipway through the shergen - planks 27. Check the plumb line, the verticality of the plane of the template, and the risk of DP on the bottom bar coincided along the plumb line with a straight line on the stock.

Pull the thread marked DP over the templates, from the stem to the transom, check if the DP risks on the templates match this thread. Attach the templates to the slipway using racks driven into the ground with the lower end or fixed to the floor, fix them in a verified position so that it remains unchanged during the subsequent hull plating. Then, in the corresponding sockets of the templates, transom and stem, lay the zygomatic beams 5 which are attached with 4 X 50 mm countersunk screws to the transom and stem and with 3.5X50 mm nails to the templates. Now you can start sheathing the body. First sheathe the sides.

Decide how many boards you need for each side. Usually, three boards are enough. First, attach the plank of the lower (adjacent to the bottom) belt to the cheekbone, press it temporarily with clamps (you can also use screws or a strong cord) to the cheek beam at the stem and at the transom so that it protrudes above the beam 5, and at each end there is no less 75 mm wide. Then install the upper belt board. Make sure that the middle part of this board does not become too narrow after trimming along the side line. Make sure the remaining open side of the bead can be sewn with one or two boards. Then draw the first laid board inside the body along the edge of the zygomatic beam, and transfer the risks LB from the templates, stem and ladder to the second. Also, draw a vertical line on the boards along the edge of one template to position them exactly where they tried on.

Cut both boards, but markings. The board line on the top board must be drawn in advance according to the risks LB using a flexible and long rail. If the need arises, cut off the second edge of the top board, if there is not enough space for the middle board. When sheathing the bottoms, select the boards so that the sapwood part is inside the body. When the boards swell, they may warp and if they are fixed. conversely, the edges may protrude above the sheathing, and the fastening screws may be heavily stressed. Place the lower upper planks on each side, temporarily attach a third - middle bottom plank to them on top so that it overlaps the edges while singing. Press it firmly, from the inside on it outline the edges of both boards, then remove it, cut and cut - just along the pencil line - its edges.

This belt enters between pre-set boards, in which the gap is not more than 1 mm, the gap should be uniform along the entire length of the bollard. Before finally fixing the boards, the tongue and groove in the stem, the edges of the cheekbone, 15 transom top timbers and the plane that adjoins the skin, coat with thick rubbed paint. Attach the board to the zygomatic beam with nails 3.5X60 mm through 70 mm, and bend them from the inside. In order not to split the zygomatic beam from the nails, pre-drill holes with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 mm less than the diameter of the nail, and place the fasteners in a checkerboard pattern so that adjacent nails do not fall into the same layer of wood.

Maintain a distance between the rows of nails approximately 8-10 mm. Sink the nail head well into the wood for subsequent filler. When the boards are completely set (attach them to the templates temporarily with short nails), cut the edges of the boards that protrude above the zygomatic beams flush with them. Cover the surfaces of the edges of the beams along the horizontal plane with a layer of thickly grated paint, then install the transverse trims of the bottom skin on them. Carry out the work simultaneously from the stern and from the bow, so that you can then complete it, as with sheathing the sides, with a downhole board.

Do not forget that the boards are laid with the sapwood side inside the boat hull, and between the edges, be sure to leave grooves of 1-1.5 mm with the expectation of wood swelling. Fasten these boards to the chine beam with two or three screws at each edge. Do not take boards wider than 160 mm, because wide boards will be very warped and cracked in winter when stored. Correctly you need to drill the holes for the screws: for the smooth part - with a drill with a diameter that is equal to the diameter of the screw under its head. And for the threaded part of the screw with a drill with a diameter less than 1.5 mm. Sink the countersunk heads deeper so that they do not interfere with the stitching of the trim. The moisture content of the material from which you will make the boat is of great importance. Very damp boards, as well as overdried, will not work.

If the chemical pencil leaves a mark on the fresh shavings, dry the board. Otherwise, the side sheathing may dry out and gaps will appear between the boards. On the contrary, tightly fitted dry planks of the bottom planking will swell in the water, the planking may warp strongly and leak down the cheekbone. The nails and screws that hold the boards to the set can even come off. Use wood with a moisture content of 15-18%. Leave a 1-1.5 mm gap in the grooves and dig and putty. A boat launched for the first time may leak, but after a couple of days the boards will swell and the leak will stop. When the bottom is completely covered with planking boards, cut off their ends that protrude along the sides. To do this carefully, use a simple device, making it from a board trim.

For a pencil in the bar, make a semicircular notch so that the central part of the lead is above the edge of the lower ledge of the bar. Press the plank against the side skin and hold it in a vertical plane, draw a cut line for the bottom skin. Saw off the boards along this line with a hacksaw, then stitch the ends with a plane. Stitch the entire bottom with a semi-jointer, placing it at an angle to the keel line. Prepare the outer keel 20 and attach it to the bottom, having painted the contacting surfaces in advance. Now you need to free the boat from the slipway. Saw the side rails with a template and posts 24, 26, turn the boat hull. Inside it, mark the position of all frames 18, which need to be prepared from rails with a section of 25X50 mm. Fasten the frames to the casing with screws, screw them from the outside, two pieces per board.

A fender bar 4 is cut into the upper ends of the frames, and podlegars 7 to support the seats. Connect the ends of the beams 4 at the stem 1 through the bolster 3; in the stern, reinforce the attachment to the transom with knits 12, which, like knob 13, are very necessary if the boat will be used with an outboard motor. Attach the wooden cushions of the sublocks to the fenders. Attach cans 6, 8, 11 to podlegars 7 on screws; Divide the stern can 11 across the width of two boards. Outside, along the upper edge of the casing, nail a semicircular bar - collar 22, it will protect the sides from damage. Then pull out all the nails that fixed the boards to the templates, and remove the templates from the body. From the bottom to the keel attach the triangular fin 10 on screws (for the fin, make a longitudinal groove 825 long and 25 mm wide in the keel first). Be sure to cut off the aft end of the fin as shown in the drawing, and trim the side edges at the back.

Otherwise, air bubbles will start to burst from the fin when using the outboard motor, they can get caught in the propeller and begin to interfere with your boat's speed. For the boat, you need to make several metal parts: for the eye (one is fixed on the stem, the other is fixed on the transom) for mooring, oarlocks and sublocks, protective strip 2 on the stem 1. Turn the boat upside down and carefully dig the grooves between the boards with a wadding rope. Dig in the bottom before installing the outer keel. Pay special attention to protecting the ends of the bottom plating of the sides. It is advisable to paste over these places with strips of fiberglass on epoxy in two layers or glue thin oak slats on the ends. The coating on bituminous varnish protects well from moisture. Then cover the whole boat with linseed oil, putty and paint.

Paint the above-water part with light paint, and the underwater part with red, green or green. Inside the boat, brown paint is more practical. Place slats on the bottom and attach a support for the rower's legs. The Skif boat can also sail under sail. Equip with a lowering keel - 40 centerboard and a rudder. Place the centerboard in the spur hole 44, set it in front of the middle jar 8 and tie the bars 42 to it. Attach the well to the bottom carefully, using thickened paint or waterproof glue. Connect the base of the well through the bars 47 with the casing and the keel with through screws M6 X 80 every 60 mm. Cut the centerboard from thick plywood, glue from two or three boards in width, or cut from metal 4-6 mm thick. In both there will be a gap in the keel, its width is 4-6 mm wider than the thickness of the centerboard.

The planks 41 at the upper end of the centerboard are required to restrict lowering. On a metal centerboard, make a stop from squares. The wooden centerboard is held in the lowered position with a rubber strap 43. The rudder 37 is cut from 8 mm plywood, or 12 mm thick boards. Hang it up using 38 hinges with pins; on the transom, make the same loops, but without the pins but with the mounting straps turned 180 °. To avoid accidentally losing the steering wheel, tie it to the transom with a thin cord. The mast 28 is of round solid cross-section and has a maximum diameter of 68 mm. Glue it together from two fine-grained pine blocks. And the lower end of the spur mast is made of a square cross-section for fastening in the nest - step 45 The second point of the mast attachment is the hole in the front bank 6. The sail is made the same as on real "Scythians". It is laced season 32 to the mast, tie the top and bottom corners through the holes in the mast.

On the way, stretch the sail with a rod 29, the front end of which is tied with a reef knot to the back 31. If the wind suddenly increases, simply pull on the end of the line 30, and the sail will completely deflate. You can easily remove the mast from the step and put it in the boat. If you need the area of \u200b\u200bthe sail, you can also reduce it, just screw it onto the mast, but then it is carried without a yarn or the yards are attached to the bottom of the mast. Sew the sail from any strong and dense fabric: AM-100, raincoat, in extreme cases - from coarse calico. The boat can also be built with plywood sheathing. For the bottom, waterproof plywood with a thickness of 8-10 mm is required, for the sides - 6-8 mm. Instead of templates, in this case, it is recommended to make two frame frames from 16 X 40 mm rails, which, after assembling the body, remain in it as parts of the transverse set.

Before installing the side plates of the outer skin in the stem, transom and frames, except for the zygomatic stringers, the fender rails are cut in and fastened with screws, which impart the necessary rigidity to the upper edge of the sides. Sheathing sheets are glued "on the mustache" to the desired length, then applied to the set and outlined from the inside of the body along the contour - the zygomatic stringer, fender beam, stem and transom. Cut the bead sheet with a 4-5 mm allowance for final adjustment and gouging. The edges of the plywood protruding beyond the strips of the longitudinal set are cut off in the direction from the plywood to the inside of the body in order to prevent the plywood layers from breaking off.

In addition to the frame frames, it is advisable to reinforce the bottom of the boat with several more transverse slats with a section of 16 X 40 mm, placing them on glue and screws. All open ends of plywood must be protected by pasting with fiberglass or wooden slats. In addition to oars, the boat must be equipped with a scoop for pumping water, a lifebuoy or bibs, 6 m long mooring lines, an anchor or a cat. All of these can be purchased in stores, but if necessary, you can make good oars yourself.

Fig 1. The design and contours of the rowing boat "Skif". 1 - stem 75 X 90 X 650; 2 - protective strip 2 X 16 X 900, steel (fasten to the post and keel with screws 4 X 20 through 75 mm): 3 -brick, δ \u003d 30; 4 - fender bar 20X45X4200 (fasten with plating through the frame with a 4X50 nail-rivet); 5 - zygomatic stringer 25 X 50 X 4000; 6 - bow bike 20 X 250 X 750; 7 - podlegars 20 X 45 X 3350 (cut 5 mm into the frames, fasten with 5X40 screws); 8 - rowing bank 20x250X1150; 9 - sublock pad: 10 - aft fin 20X90X960 (fasten to the keel with 5X65 screws every 100 mm); 11 - feed can 20X400X1050; 12 - starknitsa; δ \u003d 30; 13 - transom knit, δ \u003d 30; 14 -trans (collect no two boards δ \u003d 25); 15 - transom toptimbers 25X50X330; 16 - slot strip 20X40X750; 17 - side sheathing (board 20X150X4500. 6 pcs.); 18 - frame 25 X 50 X 450 (10 pcs.); 19 - bottom sheathing (board 20x150, L - 25 m); 20 - keel 20 X 100 X3700; 21 - pillers 30 X 30 X250; 22 - collar 20 X 30 X 4200.

Fig 2.stem

Fig 3. Sampling of tongue grooves in the stem.

Fig 4. Templates for assembling a punt boat hull

Figure: 5 Assembly diagram of the punt boat hull on the slipway (a); checking the installation of the stem and transom (b). 1 - 22 - see fig. 1; 23 - timber of the slipway 50 X 150 X 4500; rail 35 X З6 X 600; 25 - plumb line; 26 - bar 35 X 120 X 500; 27 - shergen-plank 25 X 60.

Figure 6. Selection of boards for sheathing the bottom of a punt boat: a - correct; b - wrong.

Fig 7. Device for tracing the ends of the bottom planking boards.

Figure: 8 Boat hull kit parts

Fig. 9. The pillow is connected (money 9).

Fig 10. Sub-lock (a) and oarlock (b) of a welded structure.

Fig 11. Rack floor and paddle rest. 1 - rail 60 X 10; 2 - knit stop 10 X 100 X 180; 4 - stop board 10X I50X 200; 5 - cross bar 10 X 30.

Fig 12. Sailing rig of the boat. 1-22 - see fig. 1. ; 23-27 - see fig. 5; 28 - mast, L - 5.05 m; 29 - slats. L -3.35 m; 30 - yarn fastening cord; Z1 - a wire spool with a diameter of 6; 32 - seznevka (nylon cord with a diameter of 4-6); 33 - sail; 34 - sail sheet: 35 - rail sheet; 36 - tiller 50X25X900 (ash); 37 - steering wheel (glue from boards, δ \u003d 20 or cut from plywood δ \u003d 8); 38 - steering loop; 39 - tiller holder (steel, δ \u003d 2); 40 - centerboard; 41 - overlays 20 X 20 X 410; 42- bar 25 X 25 X 700; 43 - rubber sling; 44 - well key 25 X 60 X 260; 45 - mast step 60 X 120 X 250; 46 - wall of the well; δ \u003d 10; 47 - base rail 25 X 25 X 520.

Fig 13. Installing the centerboard and mast on the boat, 1-47 - see fig. 12,

Figure: 14. Paddle a punt boat. 1- paddle; 2 - cuff; 5 - forging (brass strip 0.5 X 12; fasten with nails).

All photos from the article

A do-it-yourself plywood motor boat is interesting to many of our compatriots for two reasons - a creative nature and a lower cost price. Despite the seeming complexity of the project, it can be understood and implemented.

But for this it is extremely necessary such a factor as your desire to do it. In addition, what you did on your own will be more dear to you morally, so stay with us and we will show you the video in this article.

We make a small boat

Note. We will not consider a specific design, for example, do-it-yourself drawings of a folding boat made of plywood.
Our goal is to tell you about the general principles and methods of making small craft.

Required materials and tools

Plywood selection:

• to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, you, of course, will need this very plywood, only of different thicknesses;
• for the hull you need a sheet thickness of 5 mm, but for the keel and frame you will already need 10-15 mm thick (select the panel length depending on the body length);
• as you understand, high-quality products are needed here, therefore, you will have to choose either elite E or 1st grade for work - the price, of course, will be higher, but the quality will rise along with it;
• also important, on which the water resistance and strength of plywood depends - the best brands here are FSF or FSF-TV (flammable), FB and BS (aviation - also used in shipbuilding).

Solid wood:

• for decorating the sides, installing seats and arranging struts inside the boat hull, you will need solid wood;
• the pine edged board is best suited for this purpose - it is lighter than larch, but due to the resin content, it tolerates wet well.

Suture material:

• to tighten the body and connect other parts into a one-piece structure, suture material is needed here;
• for this you can use thin knitting steel or copper wire, thick nylon fishing line or plastic clamps.

Tightness:

• in order to prevent the boat from leaking, all the seams need to be sealed with water-repellent glue - at the moment there are a lot of them on sale;
• as practice shows, compositions based on polymer resins are best suited for this purpose;
• fiberglass is also used to seal the seams - a tape from it is planted on glue along the joint;
• it is also possible to use fiberglass for this purpose, pasting the sides and bottom with it;
• to protect against swelling, water-repellent varnishes and adhesives are used, impregnating the body and lintels with them - for this you can, for example, use bakelite varnish or glue;
• in addition to impregnation, you will also need polymer paint to complement the moisture resistance and decorate your boat.

Tools:

• to make a boat with your own hands from plywood, of course, you will need tools and, first of all, this is a circular saw and / or an electric jigsaw (a hacksaw is also useful);
• a set of hand carpentry tools in the form of a hammer, chisels, pliers, and the like;
• grinding disc or belt machine;
• tape or steel clamps;
• paint brushes for applying impregnations and paints and varnishes.

Choosing a drawing

Important!
Before starting the assembly, find the drawings that are suitable for your case - how to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, it can be a flat-bottomed fishing boat that you will use on weekends or a kayak for hiking trips on vacation.
But if you are already experienced in "shipbuilding", then you can try to draw such a project yourself, but here it is very important to calculate the carrying capacity so that the floating craft does not capsize during operation.

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A flat-bottomed boat, or, as it is often abbreviated as "flat-bottomed", is a type of flat-bottomed boat that has been used for hundreds of years to transport people and goods along shallow rivers. Modern flat-bottomed boats are mainly used for recreational activities on the water, although in some countries they are still used for the transport of goods. Among the many places on earth, the English university cities of Cambridge and Oxford are most famous for their flat-bottomed boats, where since the beginning of the 19th century, flat-bottomed riding has been a popular form of water recreation among students.

The appearance of flat-bottomed boats is quite unique and differs greatly from other small-tonnage boats. Unlike other floats, punt boats do not have a keel, the sturdy central base that most boats use as a base. On the contrary, the bottom of the boat is absolutely flat, and several lamellas sequentially located at its base are the connecting support part. The sides of the punt are relatively low, and the stern on both sides is equally wide, square in shape, which allows the boat to sail in any direction without turning.

Traditionally, flat-bottomed boats are operated with a long pole. The manager usually stands at the front stern of the boat, rests the pole against the bottom and pushes off from it. As the boat moves, the steward moves from the front stern to the rear while continuing to exert force on the pole. Then, he returns to the fore aft and the cycle repeats. When sailing on modern, lightweight punt boats, pushing off from the bottom, the operator does not need to move along the entire length of the boat, and he can stay in one place. While it may seem like a relatively easy task to operate a flat-bottomed boat from the outside perspective, it is actually quite difficult and time consuming. Different countries use different methods of driving a punt.

Flat-bottomed boats have a very shallow draft, which makes them an ideal means of transportation in shallow waters, coastal waters, and in areas heavily overgrown with emerging plants. And if you learn the correct control technique, the punt is very good and easy to maneuver. Because the ends of a flat-bottomed boat are symmetrical, it is much easier to handle in tight spaces than other types of boats. Flat boats used for the transport of goods, as a rule, have specially designated areas for stowing and storing cargo.

By the way, the name of the boat comes from the Latin word "ponto", which means "a boat with a flat bottom". The same word is the root in the word pontoon. Today, punt boats are often used in sports competitions, as well as by outdoor enthusiasts and water sports enthusiasts. If you have a desire to swim on a flat-bottomed boat on your own, then the constantly increasing number of flat-bottomed boat rental points in settlements with shallow rivers and a calm current will gladly provide you with such an opportunity. Also, many rental offices offer training in the basics of flat-bottomed boat management.

A punt boat is a traditional fishing craft that appeared long before keel analogs made of pvc and aluminum. Convenient and quite simple, it was used not only for fishing - with its help, bulky goods and people were transported through the water. Despite the appearance of a large number of models of inflatable boats, the punt has not lost its popularity today. One of the reasons for this is the fact that such a craft can not only be purchased, but also made by hand.

In more detail about what a punt is, what it consists of and what types it is, what are its pros and cons, as well as how to make such a boat yourself, will be described in this article.

Device

This craft consists of:

• from two sides (right and left) up to 60–70 cm high;
• flat bottom, reinforced with longitudinal or transverse stiffeners (lamellas);
• rectangular stern (transom).

To transport people and control the boat, 2-3 benches (banks) are attached between its sides. Various fishing equipment is stored in a locker at the stern with a lockable lid. Depending on how many people are planned to be transported by boat. Its length varies from 2 to 4 meters with a width of 1.0–1.2 meters.

Most modern models have a tapered or tapered bow, due to which such a boat gains better maneuverability and speed of movement (especially against the current), has less windage in a strong headwind.

You can move on a punt with the help of oars, and with outboard screw or water jet engines installed at the stern.

Kinds

Depending on the material for making a punt, they are of the following types:
Wooden - a classic version of this boat. Wooden boats are made independently from coniferous boards (spruce, pine), plywood. The disadvantage of such boats is their decent weight, which is why anglers who do not have a car with a trailer use such a boat only on a nearby reservoir.

A wooden boat should be made of boards with a moisture content of no more than 16%, without cracks and falling out knots

Plastic - lightweight and durable factory boats with a one-piece structure made of durable and impact-resistant polypropylene, fiberglass, ABS plastic. It is impossible to make such a boat on your own. Its price, in comparison with inflatable counterparts, is somewhat lower. The downside of such a boat is its fragility at low temperatures and very difficult self-repair.

Plastic models should be operated only in the warm season - in cold and frosty conditions, their body becomes fragile and easily damaged

Metal - such boats are made of aluminum and duralumin. In terms of strength and weight, such boats are the “golden mean” between wooden and plastic models. With their light weight and constant, independent of air and water temperature, the strength of the body material, they can be freely operated throughout the open water season.

The aluminum punt boat is not suitable for sailing on the sea - the light structure is just enough to tip over with a big wave

Advantages and disadvantages

If you ask yourself which boat is better - keelboat or with a flat bottom - then the latter has a number of advantages such as:

• Stability - due to the large area of \u200b\u200bcontact of the floating craft with water, a flat-bottomed boat is more resistant to a side wave and wind than a keel analog;
• High cross-country ability and carrying capacity - with a small draft, such boats allow transporting up to 5–6 people at a length of 4 m, while moving along shallow areas;

On a note. Having installed an outboard screw motor-swamp vehicle on a punt, you can navigate through overgrown and silted bays, swamps. The design of the unit and the material of manufacture of its screw allows it to chop up grass that comes in its way and not get clogged with dirt.

• Light weight - plastic and aluminum punt boats are much lighter than wooden and some inflatable boats;
• Ease of manufacture - you can make a punt with your own hands with a minimum set of tools and materials. The cost of such a craft will be significantly lower than the factory model.

The main disadvantage of such a boat is its low maneuverability and speed compared to keel boats.

Due to the shallow draft, the passability of the punt in shallow water areas is higher than that of any boat or keel boat

Making a punt with your own hands

Assembling a punt with your own hands includes drawing up drawings, buying materials, preparing the necessary tools, making the bottom, sides, stern from the board, fixing them and treating the structure against rotting with antiseptics, resin.

Materials and tools

Required tools:

• Electric jigsaw.
• Roulette.
• Square.
• Marker.
• A hammer.
• Screwdriver.

The materials required are dry spruce or pine boards with a thickness of 25–30 mm, bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm for crossbars, nails or galvanized screws, resin, tow, waterproof paint.

Drawing up a drawing

In order to build a punt boat from boards on your own, you must first of all make clear and intuitive drawings (draft) of its main parts: sides, bottom, stern (transom). Based on the drawings, the calculation of the need for materials is made: board, plywood, bars for the frame and lamellas.

The drawing of a flat-bottomed boat should be clear and understandable - an error in the dimensions during the manufacture of the craft will lead to a decrease in its tightness and maneuverability.

Bottom making

Several boards are laid tightly to each other, the bottom contour is outlined on them with a marker according to the dimensions of the drawing. 5 crossbars are made from the bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the bottom in the middle, stern and bow parts. The laid boards are sewn in the middle with the longest crossbar, after which, using a jigsaw or a manual circular, the bottom is cut along the outlined contour, leaving uncut sections at the bow and stern.

In the bow and stern, the bottom blank is additionally fixed with boards and a nylon cord

Pulling the bottom with crossbars, they achieve minimum gaps between its boards

Installation of the bow board and stern

After the bottom is cut to the bow with the help of brushed nails or self-tapping screws, a bar is attached under a close to a right angle - a bow board. Then several boards are attached to the rear of the bottom, from which the stern (transom) is formed.

The close-to-right angle of attachment of the bow board will evenly distribute the force of the oncoming water flow on the bow when the boat is moving

Fastening to the bottom of the sides

The first two boards of the starboard and left sides are nailed first to the bow board, then bend along the contour of the bottom and pulled together with a strong cord at the stern. After that, they are attached to the ends of the bottom with nails.

When attaching the first boards of the sides, it is better to fix them at the stern with a strong nylon cord

To fasten subsequent boards, bulkheads are nailed to the bottom parallel to the crossbars.

So that the boards "do not lead" the boards of the right and left boards are nailed to the bulkheads at the same time, without first assembling the right or left board completely.

With a boat length of 3.5-4 meters, at least 2 bulkheads must be present, to which side boards are sewn

Bottom and side treatment

All gaps in the bottom and between the side boards are caulked with tow. To protect the bottom wood from rotting, as well as to prevent leaks, the bottom and sides are well coated with resin.

Plywood flat bottom boat

In the bow, a ring is installed for a chain or a mooring cable.

A flat-bottomed boat can be made not only from boards, but also from moisture-resistant plywood of the FBS or FSF brands.

A flat-bottomed boat is made of plywood using a simpler technology than an analogue of boards. First, two sides 30–40 cm high in the form of rectangular trapezoids, a rectangular stern and bow, are cut out of a sheet of plywood with a jigsaw. Then, with the help of special glue, first the starboard side, then the stern, the left side, and the bow are attached to a whole sheet of plywood (bottom). In this case, the aft part is attached to the bottom at a right angle, and the bow - at a blunt one (120–130 °). All elements, in addition to glue, are fastened to each other and the bottom with bars located inside the boat. After assembly, the outside of the boat is coated with two coats of waterproof paint or resin.

Such a boat, in comparison with one made of boards, has such advantages as low weight, low costs for the purchase of materials, and ease of manufacture.

In more detail about how such a do-it-yourself punt boat is made, the following video will tell you:

On a note. Flat-bottomed ones are not only home-made, but also factory-made. Among them, such models as "SAVA" 270, "SAVA" 370, Liman "," Tortilla-2 "," Kazanka 6M "are popular. The cost of budget boats is 18,000–20,000 rubles, while the purchase of more capacious premium models will cost 25,000–30,000 rubles.

Thus, a punt boat is a watercraft slightly inferior in its characteristics to keel boats. It is made both from boards and from moisture-resistant plywood. In addition to homemade boats, there is a large selection of factory models of punt boats made of plastic and aluminum.