Sculptural composition, work of Novoselov A.V.

For all types of carving, various elements home decoration, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts need a special tool.

The carving tool can be distinguished as the main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Also widely used are various electrified household tools and devices based on an electric motor that the master can make himself.

All tools must be excellent quality so that you can easily perform carvings any complexity.

The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that the wood is cut like butter, it should be kept in perfect condition.

A blunt tool crumbles, crumples, and does not cut wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This spoils the mood and often discourages the desire to finish the work. It is easy and pleasant to work with a sharp tool, the drawing is clean, precise, beautiful. By finished product you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also what and how he did the work.

Cutting tool

Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from Bogorodsk sculptural carving.

Bogorodsky knife

joint knife(chamfer sharpening angle 20°, bevel angle 35 0; 45°; 60°), used for flat, flat-relief, embossed, openwork threads.

joint knife

knife cutter- used as an auxiliary tool for various kinds threads.

knife cutter

Chisels straight(sharpening angle 18-20°); are used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.

Straight chisel

Chisels semicircular- the main tool used to perform all types of woodcarving. There are: - sloping (R˃H), medium (R=H), steep (R˂H).

Chisels semi-round

Sameski - Cranberries these are chisels with a curved blade that allows, when carving, not to touch the processed plane with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel, a cranberry-corner. cranberry - a semicircular chisel.

Cranberry chisels

Ceraziki chisels resemble steep semicircular chisels. The width of their canvas is 2 ... 3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the sections of which correspond to the profile of the tool.

Cerazik chisel

Chisels - corners or geismus.(angle between cutting edges 50-70°). Used to select a V-shaped groove, used to make contour thread elements.

Corner chisel or geismus

Stichel. Stichels always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used to sample various veins in the manufacture of engravings.

Stichel

Klepiki. Klepiks are the most different sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: a sword, a leaf and a nail. The first two are called so: rivet-sword and rivet-leaf.

They are used in flat-relief and three-dimensional carving for cleaning the background in hard-to-reach places.

Klepik-sword, Klepik-leaf

Chisel-nail. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the form of sharpening. She looks like a fingernail. The purpose of nails is cleaning in hard-to-reach places and making stapled thread elements.

nail chisel

Spooners(spoon knives). The best spoon holder is a sharpened ring with a bar welded to it. Spooners are needed to remove a large amount of material in the recesses and to process the inner walls in the manufacture of dishes.

Spooners

Punches and stamps- these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for chasing the background in flat-relief and relief carving.

The cutting tool is made of tool steels:

1-Carbon (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened, they are determined by a white beam of sparks with separate stars.

2-alloyed (XB5; X12; Ch12M), when sharpened, they give yellow or orange sparks.

3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened, they give dark red sparks.

Tool sharpening and dressing

Of great importance for the performance of high-quality wood carving is correct sharpening tool.

Tool sharpening consists of two stages:

1- chamfering;

2- edits.

1. Chamfering. The chamfer can be removed on an electric sharpener (see fig.), a sharpener with manual drive or by hand on an abrasive block.

An electric sharpener for sharpening and straightening tools: a - a mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3- protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device;: 1 - horizontal movement lock; 2 - movable platform for choosing the angle of sharpening; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; c - a device for straightening and polishing a tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.

The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.

Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; in - on chisels-corners: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.

The position of the chisel during sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and sloping; 3 - chisel - corner;

When sharpening it is necessary:

endure predetermined angle sharpening;

To maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be even without traces of curling;

Blueing of the instrument is not allowed (prevent by periodic wetting of the instrument in water).

2. Edit. Under the editing of the tool is understood to increase the purity of sharpening the blade, deburring, improving sharpening. To edit the tool, microcorundum whetstones (Fig.), skins, and leather are used.

Sharpening a joint: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -

chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;

b - the position of the hands at work;

For semicircular incisors, a dressing board is made of linden, cuts on its surface are transverse grooves for incisors of different sizes (Fig.).

Dressing boards and belts

1 - board with a set of profile bars and whetstones;

2 - dressing board with chisel profiles;

3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening.

Before editing, GOI paste is rubbed into the dressing board. The inner surface of semicircular incisors is ruled by round wooden twigs wrapped in fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the instrument on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.

A properly sharpened tool must have a specified sharpening angle, blade shape, and no burrs.

When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.

Literature:

1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.

House carving-M.: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.

2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.

Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Yekaterinburg: Ural. state forest engineering un-t. 2012.

There is one true rule: a sharp blade is much safer than a dull one. It's right! The rule applies not only to the manufacture of sharp edges of the chisel, but also to other carpentry and even kitchen appliances. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary that the pointed edge of the chisel be regularly cleaned at least a couple of times a year. If the tool is actively used in work, it is necessary to clean it much more often.

First stage

Even a set of brand new chisels that have not yet been used in work cannot be suitable for starting to work with them. Even though they stay sharp for a very long time, you should know how to sharpen a chisel right. After all, the quality of the work performed depends on it.

If the carpentry is a little aged, has a little jagged edges or rust, then you can correct this with a grinding wheel. Carefully hold the bevels of the defective chisel near the grinding wheel to get rid of large scuffs and rust.

To work, you need a three-level sharpening stone - the smallest, beginner and medium, in order to achieve a greater sharpness of the chisel. Sharpening stones can be purchased at hardware or garden stores, they are quite often used for sharpening kitchen knives. The stone you bought must come with a lubricant, or purchase it separately. Note:

• Do not use water lube for oil stones. They need to buy special means in construction stores;
• Water stones prefer water as a lubricant. They need to be soaked in ordinary water for a few minutes, after which they can be used. This method is quite common in Japan.

Now you need to prepare the stones accordingly. Usually such stones come with instructions. Also, the instructions are written on oil lubricants.

Chisel sharpening

We start sharpening ours from the flat side, it should be so pointed that it will look like a mirror. We begin to intensively move the tool along the grindstone. It is important that when sharpening, your hand is fixed, so the chisel will be sharpened evenly. Do not allow yourself sudden movements: everything should be slow and as smooth as possible.

When the whetstone begins to show minor scratches, go to the fine-grained side, and then to the very fine-grained side. The flat or, as it is also called, the flat side of the tool will be perfectly sharpened when it starts to look like a mirror.
A few tips:

• You can not move either a grindstone or a chisel from side to side. We move only in the length of the stone for sharpening.
• When working, use the entire surface of the grindstone.
• Be sure to clean your hands and chisel from dust, as it will obscure appearance products.

Wood chisel sharpening angle

This can be done manually, but there is a very high chance of making a mistake. To obtain perfect angle tilt, place the chisel in a special sharpening device, tighten the screws so that the product is firmly fixed. The angle of inclination largely depends on the type of chisel being sharpened:

• cleaning the chisel - set at an angle of about 20 degrees;
• for a regular chisel, increase the angle by five degrees.

Additional finishes

Usually, after sharpening, the chisel can already be used, but if you want it to be even sharper, then it makes sense to add a microbevel. In fact, this is another small bevel, which is made at the very tip of the chamfer. This is necessary step when performing very delicate and precise work. To make a micro-bevel, you need to adjust the sharpening machine to work at an angle of 5 degrees. Repeat the work done using a fine-grained stone.

A chisel is a carpentry tool, through which it is possible to select a tree in difficult places, chamfering and trimming of wood when processing pieces of furniture.

All varieties of chisels are divided by purpose into: carpentry, wood carving, turning.

The difference between a chisel and a chisel

A chisel is in demand where it is necessary to gouge deep grooves and nests. The device looks like an elongated metal bar mounted on a handle. The end of the chisel handle is looped with a crimping part that protects the handle from splitting.

Techniques for cutting with a chisel: a, b, c - trimming and cleaning spikes, nests, grooves, d - cutting grooves, e, e - chamfering, g, h, i - processing of curved surfaces.

The chisel, which is a manual device for woodworking, is represented by a sharpened plate steel element with a handle. In other words, the design of a chisel is a sharpened blade with a handle (wooden or metal).

A chisel with a chisel is distinguished by the angle of the sharpened cutter, the absence of a 2-sided chamfer in the length of the working element relative to the side to be sharpened. Another difference is the significant d of the metal rod of the bit. Therefore, it is completely unrealistic to confuse these two carpenter's tools.

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Chisel classifications

All varieties of chisels are divided by purpose into:

• carpentry;
• carved wood;
• turning.

The scheme of cutting with a chisel: 1 - chips, 2 - workpiece, 3, 4 - cutters.

There is another division:

• according to the variant of movement in the thickness of the material;
• according to the shape of the handle;
• to size.

The following is also taken as the basis for dividing instruments into groups:

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The principle of operation of devices

The movement of the chisel in the thickness of the material occurs due to short taps on the handle with special percussion instrument: mallet or hammer.

This type hand tools is popular in the processing of hard wood varieties, when it is necessary to apply colossal physical forces.

Devices are equipped with an elongated handle and a cutting element. Using a chisel, it is held in one hand, and the other performs monotonous tapping on the handle. Reinforces the device of the handle loop. For greater efficiency of procedures, a rubber or polyurethane hammer is used.

Another type of chisel is with a long handle, but a shortened cutter. Their purpose is to manipulate with two hands when moving the tool.

Chisels (a), flat (b) and semicircular (c) chisels: 1 - canvas, 2 - cap, 3 - handle, 4 - ring.

Work with such devices is carried out on soft varieties tree. The smooth head of the handle is rounded and fits comfortably in the fist. It is possible to introduce a rubber hammer into the work when the density of the wood is high and it is required to improve the movement in the thickness of the rock.

They produce varieties of chisels, the movement of which in the thickness of the material is carried out exclusively with the help of hands. They are shorter and thinner than other options. The movement on the material is affected by the sharpness angle of the cutter and the amount of work (the size of the treated area). Professional carvers and encrusters work with similar types of devices.

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Cutting surface shape

The shape of the cutting surface is transverse divided into:

• straight;
• radius;
• flat;
• corner;
• bracketed.

The direct form of the work item has no curvature. A tool with a flat profile across is subdivided according to the width and thickness, according to the bend or straight cut shape.

A common type of fixture is a radius one, the cutting element of which is represented by a segment of a circle. When choosing this variety, a small check is carried out: the chisel at the end location when turning should outline a full circle around its axis. Such a device of the universal principle of action will allow carpentry with ease and accuracy.

A box-shaped or stapled variety is a tool on the cutting element of which there are sides of different heights.

Corner chisels - their profile resembles V in Latin. The main criterion here is the height of the corner face and the angle itself of 90º.

Longitudinal shape of the cutting part:

• bent;
• cranberries.

Clucarza has a steep longitudinal bend of the cut, which begins to bend more strongly closer to the end of the tool blade.

The curved type is endowed with full longitudinal bending of the blade. At the same time, the surface is curved along the entire length, and not only in one part of it, as in cranberries.

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Learning how to work with a chisel

Working with a chisel seems to be a difficult and rather laborious task, which should be learned. For manipulation, force is applied from the pressure of the hand. But when there are few forces in the hands, and a significant effort needs to be given, in such cases it is appropriate to use a mallet. A mallet is called a carpenter's hammer, made of hardwood. A chisel paired with a mallet is used only at the moments of swotting. For stripping and trimming procedures, it is permissible to wield one chisel.

Before starting work, the fixture applies markings for the shape of a hole, nest or cut. The size of the tool is selected in accordance with the upcoming scope of work and the size of the grooving place. For ease of use, the slotting device is clamped in the left hand, and a mallet is taken in the right. By means of a chisel, light taps are applied, which, as they go deeper into the thickness of the material, become more and more intensified.

Professional carpenters and carvers, as well as home wood craftsmen, always adhere to a certain scheme when working with a fixture. First of all, a pencil sketch is applied to the wood blank - drawing. After that, a recess is cut along the contour with the blade of a knife for wood carving. Only after a clear indication of all contour lines by means of a knife, they proceed to manipulate the chisel.

The methods of using the tool are determined taking into account what type of processing should be performed. As noted above, there are 2 most popular:

1. Manual amplification. For example, it is used when cutting the edges of a wooden part.
2. Strengthening from the impact of another instrument (hammer, mallet). It is required to obtain additional force in the process of gouging grooves or holes in wood.

Tools should be used with the utmost precision and care. After all, it is easy to spoil the product by squeezing it on the handle or, conversely, not pressing it. One failed knock with a hammer or one awkward movement - and all the work will be in vain, you will have to start all over again.

The carving technique used by the master depends on the direction in which the chisel will be located in relation to the surface. Let's consider each in more detail.

1. Trimming - the master performs work along the fibers. If necessary quick release from uneven edges wooden blank use a chisel. The tool is directed with the unsharpened surface of the blade up. The control is performed with two hands. When trimming, one hand is placed on the handle, and the other is holding the tool blade so that the direction thumb went towards the handle. This position of the hands creates precise control over the movements of the tool and makes it possible to apply more force. There is a secret here: in order to get a perfectly even and smooth surface as a result, when cutting wood along the fiber, the fixture is slightly rotated, and the flat edge should always set the direction of the master's actions.
2. Side carving. A variation is considered to be a selection of grooves. To obtain a groove in the shape of a rectangle, resort to the help of flat fixtures. For the latter, the direct working element has a transverse plane section. The cutting edge is sharpened sharply, it can be both straight and oblique. In most cases, the chisel has a sharpened edge on only one side. This implies that according to the rules, the sharpened blade of the tool resembles a razor blade. To select grooves in a circle, semicircular devices are used. Their working element has a cross section like a half or a quarter of a circle. Correctly work with a chisel in the transverse direction to the wood fibers. Hold the tool in the same position as when cutting. In this case, the cutting edge should be located at a certain angle to the surface. So cut several times. Then, along the incisions, the groove is completely selected. Such manipulations are repeated repeatedly, slowly moving in depth to the required level.
3. Trimming the ends (thread perpendicular) suggests a different position of the hands on the instrument. The handle is covered by one hand, and the blade of the chisel is clamped between the index and thumb second hand. Due to this, control over the course of the device and the accuracy of each movement is ensured. The part of the blade located closer to the master serves as a guide. Trimming the ends of a wooden blank is carried out from a far corner. The tool is directed forward and down. When pressing on the blade with your thumb and lowering the chisel down by the handle, a fairly smooth cut is obtained. Such manipulations require a lot of effort. Thin sections of wood are made once.

At manual work You don’t need to remove a lot of material with a chisel at once. Excess wood is cleaned gradually along the intended line.

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When you can't do without a hammer

For the purpose of gouging and cutting, both chisels and mallets are used at the same time. For both procedures, the mallet is held in one hand, and the chisel is placed perpendicularly in the other hand. When hit with a hammer on a chisel, its simultaneous rotation is performed. This ensures that the end of the tool is always in the right place.

They produce special devices that are intended just for chiseling, their name is chisels-chisels. Manufacturing companies that have similar products are MATRIX and KIRSCHEN. The handles of such devices necessarily have shockproof properties and high strength, because they will often perceive a difficult load.

Unlike the gouging procedure, some difficulties can be encountered during the felling process. With a chisel it is possible to cut out, for example, recesses under door hinges. Any modern door between the layers of wood has a layer of hardboard or MDF. Due to it, it turns out to avoid warping (changing the shape). But with insufficient drying of wood, even such a measure will not save.

The hinges will have to be seated a little. To set the planting depth of the loops, the material is cut along the direction of the fibers by hitting the chisel with a hammer. Each specialist chooses the direction for felling independently, focusing on personal convenience, from himself or towards himself. The chisel is held as carefully and accurately as possible, so as not to spoil the material and not to injure yourself.

When they come closer to the markup, they try to make the chisel bounce back after knocking. Why hammer blows are performed with a pull. When sampling wood at the edges at the markings, a mallet is not used, they work by hand, adding a little more effort to eliminate excess material.

Important: when the wood has flaws (knotty, pilose - a disorderly arrangement of fibers), not very deep notches are made in such defective places.

This article is devoted to the actual process for any carver - sharpening cutting tool. In a previous article, I talked about sharpening flat chisels, but here we’ll look at how to properly sharpen semicircular chisels.

The only difficulty in sharpening semicircular chisels or special ones is their shape. This shortcoming can be corrected by doing wooden bars, the edge of which we plan in the shape of our chisel. Any tree will do, you can protect it from moisture by wrapping it with tape. Ideally, each shaped chisel needs its own individual bar, so as not to get confused, you can mark it with numbers.

For the lesson we need:

• Double-sided bar of silicon oxide.
• Plywood
• shaped bar
• Powder abrasive
• Sandpaper with abrasive grade R-400, R-800, R-1000, R-2000, I use sandpaper from auto stores.
• soap solution
• Paste GOI

So, let's begin. Wet our bar soapy water, let it soak and start sharpening. We press the chamfer to the abrasive and begin to make movements as shown in the figure.

How a burr is formed, turn our chisel over, and take a shaped bar, cut for it sandpaper, you can stick it, or you can simply press it with your hand. I note that the smaller the abrasive gradation number, the coarser it is: That is, R-400 will be coarser than R-800, etc. I think that a separate article will be devoted to the abrasive.

By changing the abrasive, starting from coarse to fine, and not forgetting at the end about polishing and straightening the chisel, we achieve it razor sharp. Check the cleanliness of the cut.

Our lesson has come to an end. I wish you creative success and always sharp chisels.