Hydrangea. Beautiful flower garden Hydrangea: planting and care in the open field with a photo Hydrangea color care

The name "hydrangea" was given to the flower in honor of the princess of the Holy Roman Empire. And the Latin name of the family Hydrangea (Hydrangia) means "a vessel with water" in Greek. According to one version, this reflects a special moisture-loving hydrangea, on the other - the shape of the seed pods, reminiscent of a jug.

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When to plant?

The optimal time to plant a garden hydrangea is Spring, after the threat of nocturnal freezing of the soil has passed, but before the buds began to bloom.

In regions with not very harsh winters autumn planting is acceptable, but here you need to be in time before the first frost.

Choosing the best location

Hydrangea tolerates some shading well, grows well in penumbra... Like any aristocrat, she does not tolerate direct sunlight. Choose a slightly shaded area that is most brightly lit in the morning.

Keep in mind that an adult bush, taking into account branches and flowers, takes about 1.5 m in diameter.

The soil for hydrangea should be loose, nutritious in composition, with a predominantly acidic environment. An alkaline environment is categorically unsuitable for hydrangeas - they lime is contraindicated.

The ideal option is mature compost containing many nutrients.

Bad and good neighbors

Not worth it place hydrangea next to plants with a shallow root system, since, due to similar environmental requirements, they will oppress each other. Do not plant hydrangeas under trees - powerful tree roots take all moisture from the soil.

Better Neighborhood for hydrangeas, these are plants with fleshy roots or tubers. It adjoins very well with hosts, astilba, looks beautiful in combination with boxwood.

After the purchase

If you bought a new pet from the store, it is most likely that it was grown in a greenhouse and therefore somewhat pampered. You need to accustom your princess to a new place of residence. For this when landing remember:

if you are not going to plant a hydrangea immediately after purchase, then water it abundantly before planting;
in no case should you either shorten or cut the roots of the plant removed from the container (although this is often recommended!);
they also cannot be soaked and shaken off the ground;
the roots of the plant should not feel a sharp transition from the store substrate to the garden soil, otherwise the growth of the root system will slow down or stop. In the planting hole, mix the garden soil with the fertilized soil at a distance of at least 25 cm from the plant.

When digging a planting hole, consider the size of the aboveground part of the plant. The volume of the root system should be comparable to the volume of the crown. The rule is simple - swarm a hole so deep and wide that the plant can fit in it "upside down"!

the greenhouse capricious woman, accustomed to drip irrigation and large doses of phytohormones and fertilizers, faces a period of adaptation. You have to gradually "remove" the plant from the stimulating diet, like a patient with strong pain relievers. To do this, for the first two months after planting, be sure to feed the plant once every two weeks. mineral and organic fertilizers.

If you planted a young plant grown from a rooted cuttings in the first year don't let it bloom, tear off the resulting inflorescences to give the opportunity to lay full-fledged flower buds for the next year.

Care during the season

Watering. Remember that a hydrangea is a "vessel of water": provide abundant irrigation, ideally drip. Several buckets of water should fall under each plant per week, by no means tap water - only rain or settled. To prevent the soil from drying out, mulch the near-trunk circle with peat, needles, sawdust with tree bark, sprinkle the mulch with a layer of 20-25 cm.

Throughout the summer, remove buds that have faded and dried up - this will give the plant the opportunity to extend the flowering period. Perform rejuvenating pruning in the spring - remove shoots that are frozen after severe cold weather, as well as branches that are more than three years old. After the buds awaken, correct the result - cut off the shoots with unblown buds. In order for the bush to be lush, cut off the shoots at 4-5 buds.

If you want to rejuvenate an old hydrangea bush, completely cut off all the shoots at the root in the fall, leaving only a small stump. In spring, a powerful root system will allow you to quickly grow a lush crown.

Top dressing. Water with organic fertilizer (humus, manure) dissolved in it two or three times a month. Do not overdo it with mineral fertilizers, their excess can adversely affect the winter hardiness of the plant. You cannot fertilize with ash.

We talked more about the rules of planting and leaving in the open field in.

When to transplant?

If you want to transplant a hydrangea, follow the same rules and guidelines as when you first plant the plant. This is best done in early spring or fall after the end of the flowering period.

If your goal is not just to change the place for a beautiful bush, but, then the following will be the optimal technology:

Water the plant abundantly and let the moisture soak in.
Dig in a circle at a distance of 15 cm from the bush. It is more efficient to use a pitchfork for this.
Tilt the bush and use a sharp knife or shovel to separate part of it.
Disinfect the incision site with ash.
Transplant part of the bush into a previously prepared hole in a new location.

Take care of Princess Hydrangea during planting and this magnificent plant will thank you for its spectacular appearance, becoming a real pearl of your beautiful garden.

Useful video

You can watch a video about planting and grooming here:

Helpful information

You can familiarize yourself with other materials about garden hydrangea.

Plant hydrangea (Latin Hydrangea) belongs to the genus of flowering plants of the Hortensia family, which, according to various sources, includes from 30 to 80 species of shrubs, lianas and small trees. In nature, hydrangea can most often be found in East and South Asia - in Japan and China. It also grows in the Far East and North America. The hydrangea flower got its name in honor of the princess of the Holy Roman Empire, and the Latin name Hydrangea was given to the plant by taxonomy scientists for its exorbitant hygrophilia (hydrangea translates as "a vessel of water"). The Japanese call hydrangea "adzisai", which in Japanese means "flower - purple sun". Of the large variety of hydrangea species in room culture, only garden hydrangea, or large-leaved, compact forms, is grown, all other types and varieties of hydrangeas in our latitudes are grown in gardens.

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Planting and caring for hydrangea

Landing: in the fall, sowing seeds for seedlings, followed by planting seedlings in open ground in early spring two years later. In the south, seedlings can be planted in the ground in the fall.
Bloom: from early summer to late autumn.
Lighting: partial shade in the southern area, bright sunlight in the middle lane and more northern regions.
The soil: rich and moist, lime-free (pH 5.0).
Watering: weekly and plentiful, water consumption - 15 to 20 liters per plant.
Top dressing: at the beginning of spring - with a solution of urea, after flowering - with a complex mineral fertilizer.
Cropping: annually from 3-4 years. Paniculate and tree-like - in March-April.
Reproduction: seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, layering and green cuttings.
Pests: spider mites.
Diseases: peronosporosis, chlorosis.

Read more about growing hydrangeas below.

Hydrangea flowers - description

Hydrangea flowers in natural conditions are shrubs up to 3 m high, medium-sized trees and lianas, capable of climbing tree trunks to a height of up to 30 m.In addition, depending on the species, they can be both evergreen and deciduous plants, and in our climate growers prefer to grow deciduous. Hydrangea leaves are usually large, opposite, oval with a sharp top, often with jagged edges and noticeable venation. Hydrangea blooms from spring to frost in large spherical inflorescences, corymbose or paniculate, consisting of two types of flowers: small fertile (fertile), usually located in the middle of the inflorescence, and large sterile (sterile), blooming at the edges. There are, however, species in which all the flowers in the inflorescence are fertile.

Most hydrangeas bloom with white flowers, but such a species, for example, a large-leaved hydrangea (or large-leaved hydrangea), blooms not only with white and cream, but also red, blue, lilac and pink flowers, and the color directly depends on the pH of the soil (level pH): on neutral soil, hydrangeas grow with beige and cream flowers, on alkaline - with lilac or pink, on acidic - with blue due to the aluminum contained in the soil, which the plant is able to absorb. Hydrangea fruit is a 2-5-chamber capsule with small seeds. Sometimes plants from the close genus Schizophragmatic are confused with hydrangea, but you should know that the so-called petiolate hydrangea is actually a schizophragmatic.

Growing hydrangea - features

Well, now we can talk about the features of growing hydrangeas in the garden. So:

the color of large-leaved hydrangea flowers depends on the pH of the soil in which it grows: in neutral soil, the flowers will be white or cream, in acidic - blue or blue, in neutral - pink or lilac. Therefore, to create multi-colored bushes, it is enough to change the acidity of the soil under each of them;
hydrangea is very moisture-loving, so take watering the plant very seriously;
bright light is very important for the hydrangea, but in the direct sun the delicate petals fade quickly, so it is best to plant it where there will be light partial shade in the sultry midday;
the most important factor in caring for a hydrangea after a watering regime is timely correct pruning;
do not overfeed hydrangeas with organic matter, otherwise they, growing rapidly, will almost certainly not bloom;
even cold-resistant varieties of hydrangea need a warm shelter for the winter, but if your beauty is frozen, do not despair: most likely, it will recover during the growing season;
hydrangea is very rarely affected by diseases or pests.

Planting hydrangeas

Hydrangea from seed

By the seed method (generative) species hydrangeas successfully reproduce. The method of seed propagation is also used for the purpose of a selection experiment. How to grow hydrangea from seeds? Very simple, but you will need time.

Sowing hydrangea seeds is carried out in the fall: in a nutritious loose substrate, consisting of a mixture of leaf and peat soil with river sand in a ratio of 4: 2: 1, sow hydrangea seeds, which are then covered with a light layer of the same mixture and moistened with a spray bottle. The container is covered with glass or film, which is periodically removed to ventilate the crops and moisten the substrate, which should be slightly damp at all times. The temperature required for germination is 14-20 ºC. As soon as shoots appear (this usually happens after a month and a half), the glass can be removed.

You need to dive hydrangea seedlings twice: the first time in the developmental stage of cotyledon leaves, the second - in May. Moreover, during the second dive, each seedling is planted in a separate pot with a diameter of 7 cm.After the second dive, young hydrangeas for hardening are exposed to fresh air during the day in a place where direct sunlight, rain moisture and drafts do not reach. In the evening, the seedlings are brought into the room.

After this article, they usually read

Its variety of species and colors allows you to create a paradise in any garden.

Hydrangea varieties grown in Russian gardens

Anabel is the most common of the tree hydrangea varieties. It was withdrawn a long time ago. The bush grows small and compact, its height is about one and a half meters. The crown is spreading and has the shape of a dome, reaches a diameter of 3 m. The stem is bare, gray. The leaves are very large, up to 30 cm in length, of a bright rich green color with a finely toothed edge. Before frost, the foliage retains its color. The flowers are white, rounded, about 2 cm in size, grouped into inflorescences-balls up to 30 cm in diameter. The flowering period is from early summer to September. The bush is characterized by rapid growth up to 10 cm per year. Frost resistant. Prefers slightly shaded areas.
Grandiflora- a magnificent bush of treelike hydrangea with a spherical crown, up to 2 m high and up to 3 m in diameter. Green ovoid leaves up to 10 cm. Blossoms in corymbose inflorescences of small flowers. For the entire flowering period from July to September, the color of the flowers changes several times. At first they are light green, then they turn white, and by the end they acquire a creamy shade. The growth per year is up to 30 cm. The plant prefers sunny places with a little partial shade. Grandiflora loves moist soil and does not tolerate drought. Moderately hardy variety.
Shrub tree hydrangea cultivar Sterilis has a rounded shape, reaches a height of 2-3 m. The foliage is green above, and has a bluish tint on the lower side. Leaves with small notches and up to 20 cm long. Its annual growth is about 20 cm. The inflorescences are dense in the form of a hemisphere about 25 cm in size. The bush blooms with sterile light green flowers, which turn white over time. The plant prefers well-drained fertile soils, sunny areas with a little partial shade. The winter hardiness of the variety is average.
Kyushu- a variety of panicle hydrangea. The bush has a fan-shaped crown up to 3 m in size and grows up to 2.5-3 m. The stems are colored red-brown. The leaves, pubescent with deep green color on red petioles, are ovoid. White flowers are collected in a wide panicle 15-25 cm long. Sterile flowers up to 2-3 cm consist of 4 white petals, which later turn pink. Honey shrub. The plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture in the soil and strong dry winds. Fast growing variety, prefers partial shade. Good frost resistance down to -25 degrees.
Vanilla Fraze- a very effective variety of panicle hydrangea. It is a short bush with dark green foliage. Leaflets are ovoid, rough. It has very beautiful cone-shaped inflorescences up to 30 cm, distinguished by its color. At the beginning of flowering, they are white, and by September, the bottom of the cone-inflorescence acquires a pink-strawberry tint, and the top remains white. A fast-growing plant that recovers well after freezing. The shrub is able to withstand low temperatures down to -40 degrees.
Lime Light Is a fairly popular variety of panicle hydrangea, remembered for its lime-colored inflorescences. Gradually, the color of the cone-shaped inflorescences acquires a light lemon or white tint, and by autumn it turns slightly pink. The foliage is velvety dark green. The bush has very strong stems capable of supporting the weight of large inflorescences. The variety does not require various supports and tying. The plant grows up to 2 m in height and width. Growth per year is about 25 cm. Prefers sunny and humid areas. Hardy, young bushes should be covered in winter.
Pinky Winky- Belgian variety of panicle hydrangea. The variety is famous for its bright colors of flowers and leaves. An important feature of the variety is strong shoots, so the plant does not need support. The bush of this variety is small, compact, the crown has a rounded shape. Inflorescences are cone-shaped panicles of white color by autumn, acquiring purple tones. Their color changes gradually, which makes it possible to observe flowers of different tones in one panicle. The leaves are dark green and pubescent along the veins. The foliage also becomes red-purple in color by autumn. Young bushes need shelter during the cold season. Adult plants tolerate frosts down to -25 degrees.
White Ball frost-resistant bush of large-leaved variety up to a meter high. It blooms with spherical inflorescences of snow-white color. The foliage is rich green, large. Flowers appear on young shoots and shoots of the previous year. Prefers sunny places with a little partial shade.
Romance Blue- a winter-hardy variety of large-leaved hydrangea. The plant grows up to 1.5 m. It blooms on the shoots of the new and last season in spherical inflorescences about 25 cm in diameter. Terry flowers of blue-blue hue. The leaves are elongated green. Loves sun, moisture and drained soil.
Endless Summer- "Endless summer". The name is given due to the peculiarity of blooming not only on the shoots of the last season, but on the shoots of the current year. The bush is small, compact, up to 1.5 m. Depending on the acidity of the soil, the color of the spherical inflorescences varies from blue to pink. The variety has good winter hardiness and does not require shelter.

How to distinguish between types and varieties of hydrangea?

In reality, this is rather difficult to do. The species should be determined at the time of flowering, when all parts of the bush can be evaluated. Paying attention to the structure of inflorescences, the ratio of sterile and fertile flowers, color, shape and pubescence of leaves, the degree of lignification of the stems, you can correctly determine the type of shrub and correctly select agricultural techniques.

Positive qualities of hydrangea:

due to the large species and varietal diversity, you can choose the shrub most suitable for your conditions;
many different types allow the plant to be used as a hedge, in mixborders and flower beds of various types;
hydrangeas are quite resistant to pests and diseases;
after damage, the plant quickly recovers;
can grow on soils of different fertility, tolerates the close occurrence of groundwater, loves acidified soils;
long flowering period;
collected inflorescences can be used in dried flower compositions;
decoctions and tinctures of hydrangea leaves and root have medicinal properties.

Unfortunately, not all types of this beautiful shrub can tolerate cold weather and can be grown on the territory of Russia. When keeping hydrangeas, you must strictly follow the rules of care, and then this beauty will delight you with a gorgeous flowering.

Kinds

Hydrangea

The origin of this species is North America. It is a shrub that grows up to 3 m tall. The leaves are large, without pubescence, serrate, green above and gray below. Inflorescences appear on annual twigs, have a flat shape or the shape of a ball 15-20 cm in size. At first, the flowers are colored green, when fully blooming, they turn into white or cream. Prefers to grow in shaded areas, does not tolerate drought.

This variety is quite unpretentious, it is not afraid of frost and shade of the site. Due to its rapid growth, this variety quickly grows new shoots. In a temperate climate, the plant blooms from July to November. The species is not very rich in varietal diversity.

Popular varieties of tree hydrangea:

« Annabelle»A large, spreading shrub that tolerates wintering well, has beautiful lush white inflorescences. Leaves reach 15 cm, keeping their green color until frost.
« White Anna"- inflorescences from pale pink to purple.
« Grandiflora"- large snow-white inflorescences.
« Invisibell Spirit"- has large bright pink inflorescences that brighten over time.
« Incrediboll"- white inflorescences, surprising with their large size, the bush reaches 1.5 m.
« Sterilis"- spherical white inflorescences.
« Pink Pickup"- inflorescences are light pink.
« White House"- a dense bush about a meter, the inflorescence is a scutellum in the center of which fruiting flowers are located, and sterile along the edge.
« Hayes Starburst"- double light green flowers in the form of a ball up to 25 cm in diameter. The bush is up to 1.3 m high.

Hydrangea paniculata

The area of its distribution is Japan, China, the south of Sakhalin. It looks like a shrub about 2 m in height, it can reach 5 m. The stems of the bush quickly turn wood, which allows the plant to perfectly endure wintering. Leaves are elongated and pubescent. Flowers are formed on new shoots and have a pyramid-shaped appearance.

The inflorescence is a mixture of fertile and non-fertile flowers. At the beginning of flowering, they are painted in a greenish tint, then turn white, and by autumn they acquire a terracotta or light purple color.

The saturation of the color depends on the weather and the degree of illumination. The warmer and sunnier the weather, the brighter the hydrangea flowers.

The flowering shrub begins at the end of summer and lasts all autumn.

This species prefers slightly shaded areas in strong sunlight, the flowers become smaller. The species is not picky about the conditions, perfectly tolerates frosts even without sheltering. The variety has a rich varietal assortment.

Varieties of panicle hydrangea:

For growing plants in pots, breeders bred low-growing varieties no more than a meter in height:

Pinky Winky;
Brucelle Leys;
"Bomshel";
Last Post;
Darts Little Dot;
"Bobo" (lemon-green flowers, turning pink over time).

Large-leaved or garden hydrangea

Grows wild in Japan, Sakhalin. The height of varietal forms is about 2 m. Low-growing varieties for pot cultivation have a height of up to half a meter. The bush hibernates poorly, the shoots become woody in the second year. Garden hydrangea does not tolerate limestone. The foliage is deep green. Flower buds are formed in the fall.

For overwintering, the plant should be covered with straw, spruce branches or non-woven material. It is imperative to remove the shelter in time in the spring, otherwise the plant may overheat.

Flowering begins in mid-summer. The size of the flowers is about 3 cm.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea:

« Japanese»- umbrella-shaped inflorescences;
« Changeable"- the flowers are in the form of a hemisphere and change color depending on the reaction of the soil and the presence of metal ions in it. Due to this specific property of the changeable hydrangea, there are many varieties of this species. On acidic soils, the flowers are blue or blue; on neutral and alkaline soils, pink or red. For a brighter color, you can artificially change the reaction of the soil by adding ferrous sulfate or alum.

Frost-resistant varieties are remontant. The flowering of these varieties begins with buds on the shoots of the second year and continues on the stems of the current season.

Frost-resistant varieties:

Blue Haven;
Firewox Pink;
"Mini Penny";
White Ball;
Coco Blank;
"Endless Summer" - white or blue color of flowers;
"Romance" - double flowers;
"Expression" - double bright pink serrated flowers in the form of shields;
"Ever Peppermint" - flowers along the edge are light, and the middle is pink or blue;
"Red Sensation" - red inflorescences and stems of burgundy color.

Petiolate hydrangea

Liana bush up to 25 m long. To bloom, he needs a support, to which it is attached with the help of aerial roots. The foliage is dark green, smooth in the shape of a heart. Fragrant flowers are collected in umbrellas 15-20 cm in size, the color varies from green-white to lilac.

Liana is frost-hardy, but in severe frosts it can be damaged. To avoid freezing, the young plant should be removed from the support and covered for the winter. It can grow without support as a ground cover plant, forming a dense "carpet". Prefers a shaded area. It is used for landscaping gazebos, decorating various slopes and walls.

Hydrangea variegated or variegated

This species is also called groundcover, Bretschneider hydrangea or Himalayan. The plant has strong stiff shoots, milky-white viburnum-shaped inflorescences and elongated ovoid leaves. Shoots are reddish and have loose bark hairs.

By autumn, the flowers turn pink-purple. The shrub is shade-tolerant, frost-hardy and can tolerate dry times. It reaches a height of up to 3 m. Cut inflorescences look beautiful in dried flowers.

Hydrangea oakleaf

The species is named so because of the similarity of its leaves with oak leaves. The foliage is rich green above, velvety and whitish below. By September, the leaves turn red. The bush grows no more than 1.5 m. The plant blooms with panicle inflorescences. In the cold season it freezes and does not bloom. By pruning the shoots in the fall, and covering the root system, the plant can be grown as an ornamental shrub with luxurious leaves.

Ashy or gray hydrangea

The bush has good winter hardiness, hygrophilous. It grows up to 2 m. Inflorescences are corymbose from small sterile flowers. The leaves are oval and pale green in color. Looks good as a hedge.

Hydrangea Sargent

A rare species, blooming with light lilac flowers, collected in shields. The stems are reddish. The leaves are large, up to 25 cm in length. After freezing, it grows well young shoots and can bloom.

Serrate hydrangea

Plant up to 1.5 m high with large balls of inflorescences. Grows well in sunny areas. Inflorescences are two-colored. The shade of the colors will change depending on the acidity of the soil. The developed variety of this species "Bluebird" or bluebird has blue-colored flowers and leaves. Covering species can tolerate frosts.

Hydrangea radiant

Fast-growing shrub about 2.5 m tall. Blooms in white groups of flowers in the form of an umbrella. The leaves are lanceolate-oval. Flowering lasts no more than a month.

For growing shrubs in Russian gardens, it is better to take species and varieties adapted to the climate of Russia. The plant must have good winter hardiness. Otherwise, the bush will not delight you with luxurious flowers.

They feel great in our climatic zone treelike and paniculate shrub varieties. The garden look is more moody and is better suited for pot growing.

This article is dedicated to the beautiful inhabitant of many gardens - hydrangea. No wonder they love her so much. Her lush inflorescences, collected in hats, simply cannot leave anyone indifferent. Large shrubs with scalloped, dark green leaves and gradient inflorescences can form stunning hedges. The hydrangea also looks great in solo performance.

Japan and China are considered the birthplace of hydrangea. There, the shrub reaches 4 meters, and the size of the flower is 4 cm in diameter. In our latitudes hydrangea bush can reach 2-2.5 m in height and 1.5 m in width (crown diameter).

Many types of large-leaved hydrangea have an amazing property - they change the color of flowers depending on the acidity of the soil. This shrub prefers an acidic environment. It is noted that in a slightly alkaline medium, flowers of pink shades are obtained. In order for the color of the colors to change to blue or blue, it is necessary to acidify the soil. To do this, add a solution of alum in a certain proportion. The pigment anthocyanin is responsible for the color of the flowers, which, with an acidic reaction of the juice, gives the flowers a red color, and with an alkaline one - blue.

In general, hydrangea care not too difficult. But she needs to create the conditions necessary for comfortable growth and flowering.

Hydrangea - conditions for growth and flowering:

Hydrangea is photophilous, but it also tolerates partial shade.
Loves fertile, well-drained soil. When planting, peat is added to the pit. To change the shade of the inflorescences, the soil is acidified, for example, by introducing peat or coniferous sawdust into it. Mulching the soil helps retain moisture and reduces weed growth.
Needs good watering. It is advisable that the soil is always slightly moistened.
If the hydrangea is not covered for the winter, it will take longer to recover after winter and will bloom much later. Therefore, it is advisable to cover the shrubs even before the first frosts, and remove the shelter only when the probability of night frosts has completely disappeared.
Top dressing must be carried out twice a season. At first, it is advisable to feed the plant with a complex fertilizer, which includes nitrogen. This is best done during the budding period. Then, in the middle of summer, it is advisable to feed with potash fertilizer. Ash reduces soil acidity. Therefore, in order to avoid losing the desired color of the inflorescences, it is better not to introduce it.
Until the bush has matured, you can use bush holders. This will help the plant to take the correct shape.
Correct pruning is the key to good flowering. In the spring, it is necessary to remove frozen shoots. Next, you should pay attention to the quantity and quality of overwintered shoots. Too old (over 4 years old) and those that thicken the bush should be removed. Spring pruning is considered the main one. Annual cuttings can be cut off before shelter in the fall.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings

Hydrangea easily propagates by cuttings in summer. For this, the lower leaves are removed from the cuttings and planted in a pot. Then they cover it with a plastic bag or bottle and put it in a warm place. This creates a micro greenhouse. The pot must be placed so that direct sunlight does not fall on it. Watering should be regular. The soil in the pot should always be slightly damp.

Usually the cuttings will take root in 2-4 weeks. Then they can be transplanted into open ground.

For semi-lignified cuttings cut closer to autumn, the planting technique will be different. A pot with planted cuttings is buried in the ground in a shaded place. The pot is covered with a plastic bottle with a screw cap. Periodically, this lid is opened for ventilation. Before frosts, the plant is covered, and in the spring both the shelter and the bottle are removed. Overwintered seedlings will already have a sufficiently strong root system for independent growth.

Garden hydrangea- a thermophilic plant. Therefore, if you live in a cold climatic zone, it is better to grow it at home or in a greenhouse.

Hydrangea paniculata not so capricious. It is less demanding for open ground. Although, of course, it is inferior to garden hydrangea in the ability to bloom from July to October.

Hydrangea popular all over the world among gardeners. It is unpretentious and very decorative. Reaches 3-5 meters in height.

For planting, choose sunny or slightly shaded places. The scorching heat of summer can have a negative effect on the quality of flowering. If the sun is not enough, the inflorescences become smaller. Therefore, the ideal landing site is an open area with partial shade. Ideal growing conditions are good soil and good watering.

You should not choose a landing site in the lowlands. Though hydrangea loves moisture, it does not tolerate stagnation and groundwater at all. A good drainage system is needed for a safe wintering. If the plant is heavily saturated with moisture in the fall, the worse it will overwinter. If you are afraid that there is poor drainage on your site, it is advisable to close it from excessive precipitation in the autumn weather.

The planting pit should be 50x50x50 in size. The pit is prepared just before planting. Hydrangea is planted both in groups and singly. The distance between plants must be at least 1 m. The planted bush must be mulched with a layer of peat or humus.

It is advisable to loosen the soil around the hydrangea bush several times per season to enrich the soil with oxygen.

Spring planting (as soon as the spring night frosts go away) is most preferable. It has been noticed that these plants take root better. After planting, the plant needs to be watered regularly.

1. Growing temperature: one of the main difficulties in keeping hydrangeas at home is maintaining cool conditions - during the flowering period the flower is kept at a temperature of about 16 ° C, the cool dormant period should take place in even colder conditions - at a temperature of 4 - 7 ° C.

2. Lighting: the flower can take sun baths in the morning and evening, but in the warm season it should be in the shade during the daytime.

3. Watering and humidity: in spring and summer, abundant and regular watering should be replaced by careful and rather rare in the cold season. In the warmer months, they are regularly sprayed with water at room temperature, being careful not to get on the flowers.

4. Pruning: Formative pruning is carried out mainly after flowering, and sanitary pruning - at any time, if necessary. some varieties are pruned in the spring when they begin to grow.

5. Priming: nutritious and loose soil with neutral or acidic pH. Large-leaved hydrangea is able to change the color of the inflorescence in accordance with the pH of the soil.

6. Top dressing: in warmer months, regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. In winter, fertilization is stopped and resumed only with the beginning of new growth in spring.

7. Reproduction: vegetatively - by rooting cuttings in spring and summer, dividing adult plants during spring transplantation, air layering, generatively - sowing seeds in spring.

Botanical name: Hydrangea.

Family... Hortensia.

Homeland of the plant... Asia, America.

2.Description

The genus Hydrangea or hydrangea includes about 80 species of perennial plants, some of them are deciduous, others are evergreen bushes or short trees with large, showy buds and attractive foliage.

Inflorescences- scutes or panicles with a diameter of 13 to 20 cm, consist of many flowers. Their color changes depending on the reaction of the soil.

Large-leaved hydrangeas grown in acidic soil with a pH of less than 5.5 carry blue flowers on the tops of the stems; in neutral or alkaline soil with a pH above 5.5 - pink. Varieties with white flowers are independent of soil response.

Selected flowers with a diameter of 2.5 - 4 cm, with 4 petals.

Plants have a short, woody stem with 4-8 branches, on which are located oppositely oval, pointed, shiny leaves up to 15 cm long.

Home hydrangea - height... In the culture of the throat claims grow slowly and rarely exceed 30 - 60 cm... In the garden, they easily reach 1 m and more.

There are species whose shoots grow up to 30 meters and are more like a liana.

Treelike hydrangeas in the open field reach 3 meters in height.

Carnation - photo of a perennial plant, planting and care in the garden, flower reproduction - growing from seeds, useful properties, soil, watering, fertilization
Gardenia - photo, home care, indoor gardenia flowering, why leaves turn yellow, plant maintenance after purchase, description, watering, soil for growing in a pot
Lily - a photo of a flower, planting and care in the open field and at home, reproduction, pruning and transplanting of domestic lilies, the composition of the soil for growing, feeding
Thuja - description, planting and care in the open field, why the plant turns yellow, propagation by cuttings, keeping at home, watering seedlings, soil composition for keeping in a pot

3.Hydrangea - planting and care

3.1 Landing in open ground

Flowers are planted in open ground in the middle of spring or autumn in such a way that the bushes can take root well before the onset of frost.

Landing is worth it in cloudy weather or in the evening... Plants will experience additional stress after transplanting under the scorching rays of the sun during the day.

For planting, they select a plot of land well lit by morning and evening sun rays protected from strong winds. Do not plant hydrangeas in flooded areas or in places where groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth.

For planting in open ground, strong plants are selected at the age 2 - 4 years old free of visible signs of disease and the presence of harmful insects.

The landing site is dug up and weeds are removed.

Depending on the landing pattern, they prepare landing holes... When grown together, a distance of about 1.m is maintained between the holes.

Additionally, in the land in which the hydrangea will be planted, apply mineral fertilizers for flowering plants and slightly acidify the soil by adding peat. If the earth is too heavy, clayey, then river sand is also mixed into it.

The depth and diameter of the holes should be Exceed 2 times root system size flowers - on average, their size will be 50 - 60 cm... A small nutrient layer is laid out at the bottom of the hole in the form of humus or well-rotted cow or horse manure, and prepared soil is poured on top in the form of a mound.

The seedlings are taken out of the pots, thoroughly shaken off the old substrate and the roots are straightened.

The root system before planting can be shorten by 2 - 3 cm... sterile pruning shears, and sprinkle the cuts with charcoal powder. The bushes are placed in the center of a mound with straightened roots, thoroughly watered and begin to sprinkle with earth.

After planting, the soil around the flower is well ram to remove air pockets and carry out another thorough watering.

Plants should be placed when planting at the same depth on which they were in pots. To prevent too rapid evaporation of moisture, as well as to curb the growth of weeds, the surface of the earth under the hydrangea bushes is mulch- cover with a layer of mulch made of cut grass, straw or burnt sawdust about 5 cm.

3.2 Care of plants planted in open ground

In the first month after planting, the hydrangea costs water thoroughly and in a timely manner by keeping the soil evenly moist. Over time, the bushes will be able to withstand a short drought.

During the period of active growth and budding, watering should be regular and abundant. Water the hydrangea in the evening, using softened - for example, rainwater. Water for irrigation should be warm.

For abundant and long-term flowering, plants should be helped by the introduction of mineral fertilizers. Top dressing when grown in the open field is carried out 2 times per season- in spring or early summer for healthy growth and abundant inflorescence and, after flowering, to prepare plants for wintering.

For spring feeding, fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen, and at the end of summer or autumn they are fed with complex liquid fertilizers for flowering plants.

To control the size and maintain the beautiful shape of the bush, pruning is carried out from time to time with a sharp, sterilized pruner. Since fading inflorescences do not at all serve as a decoration for a plant, they should be worthwhile in a timely manner. pinch.

The surface of the soil under the bush periodically gently loosen so that oxygen is supplied to the root system.

3.3. Wintering hydrangeas

With the onset of cloudy and rainy weather, the inflorescences on the bushes gain water and become heavy - this will threaten the plants with broken shoots - cut flowers no regrets.

With the onset of the first frost, the roots of the shrubs additionally spud, sprinkling with a layer of earth thick 5 - 7 cm... and sprinkle with another layer of mulch.

Most varieties of hydrangea do not tolerate too strong and prolonged frosts, so they should spend the winter under cover. The most frost-resistant there will be paniculate, tree-like and ground cover hydrangeas.

If winters are mild, and a thick layer of snow falls in the growing region, then even relatively thermophilic plants can do without shelter.

At wintering in Middle lane it is better to prepare shrubs thoroughly for the onset of frost and begin this preparation in the fall - when the first frosts come at night. The bushes are mulched and covered with non-woven material.

In order to prevent the plants from getting wet from the melting snow, they are additionally covered with cardboard boxes and another layer of non-woven material.

They begin to open the flowers as soon as the snow melts on the site - they remove the cardboard boxes and the film, leaving only the non-woven material. The last shelter is removed when the spring frosts have passed.

You can also use another method of shelter - the branches of the bushes. contact in a vertically located bundle, and around the bush is installed plastic mesh cylinder or a small piece of mesh - a chain-link. The cylinder should be taller than the bunch of hydrangea shoots.

After installation, the entire volume of the cylinder is filled with dry fallen leaves.

Plants can suffocate under plastic wrap during the winter months.

4.Correction of inflorescence shades

It's no secret that flower color in large-leaved hydrangea depends not only on varietal characteristics, but also on the conditions of detention - in particular from soil pH in which the bush is grown.

Experienced growers can adjust the color of flowers using substances such as aluminum sulfate- its application acidifies the soil and gives blue and blue shades. Also, as acidifiers, finely chopped pine needles and high sour peat are added to the soil for planting.

To obtain pink and red flowers, the substrate should be brought to a slightly alkaline pH by adding milk of lime, crushed chalk, dolomite flour... Remember that too high an alkaline pH will negatively affect the plants.

In a neutral environment, hydrangea flowers will be painted in white, cream shades.

5. Propagation of hydrangeas

Cultivation of hydrangeas is within the power of even beginner growers and usually does not cause difficulties, but it requires adherence to certain agricultural techniques.

Propagate indoor hydrangea cuttings 10 - 15 cm long... in June or July, rooting them in water. Select for grafting non-flowering shoots located in the middle of the bush.

Each cutting should have at least 2 pairs of leaves and an apical bud, remove the lower pair of leaves.
The upper leaf blades can be shortened by half to reduce moisture loss.
The cutting is separated from the mother plant with a sharp pruner so that the lower cut is oblique, below the leaf node by a couple of centimeters, and the upper cut is at right angles.
Dip the lower end of the cutting into the rooting preparation.
For 1 - 2 cm. The base of the cuttings is immersed in water, to which a tablet of activated carbon has been added.
After the appearance of roots reaching 1 - 2 cm, the cuttings can be planted in the ground.

For some time, the plants will not show signs of growth - at this moment their root system gets used to new conditions of existence.

Also, for rooting, you can use a nutritious and loose substrate with which the container is filled.
The cuttings are buried 3 - 4 cm into the ground and thoroughly moistened from a spray bottle.
Cover the planting with a plastic cap or bag to maintain moisture levels. When covering with plastic wrap, make sure that it does not directly contact the surface of the leaves.
After 3 weeks, remove the cover and water the plants regularly.
The appearance of young leaves will signal the successful rooting of cuttings.

Sowing seeds is carried out in the fall months using a plastic container.
Holes are made at the bottom of the container and a small drainage layer of fine expanded clay is placed and it is sprinkled with a light nutritious soil consisting of peat, turf and leafy soil with coarse river sand to improve drainage.
Before sowing, the substrate is thoroughly moistened using a spray bottle with a fine spray.
The planting material is laid out on the surface of the earth and covered from above with a small layer of soil with a thickness of 5 to 10 mm.
River sand can be used instead of the topsoil.
To maintain the level of air humidity at a high level, the crops are covered from above with glass, transparent plastic wrap or a plastic cap.
Every day, the shelter is removed for a few minutes, the condensate that has appeared during the day is removed from it and the crops are aired.
From time to time, the soil is additionally moistened with a spray bottle.
Seedlings are placed in a cool place with a temperature of 14 to 20 degrees Celsius.
The location should be well lit, but out of direct sunlight.
Gradually, the time and frequency of airing the seedlings are increased, and with the appearance of the first signs of growth, the shelter is completely removed.

As soon as the cotyledon leaves are well formed and unfolded, young plants dive- they are seated in separate small cups filled with a nutrient substrate.

In a week after picking, the flowers can feed for the first time using a very weak fertilizer solution with a high nitrogen content.

Second dive do it already when each bush becomes the owner of the first 2 - 3 leaf plates - the plants are very carefully, trying to disturb the root system as little as possible, are transferred into small pots with a diameter of 7 - 9 cm.

After the second dive, 10-14 days later, top dressing is also carried out.

In order for the bushes to remain strong and dense, not to stretch out and become weak, they are necessary during all months highlight using fluorescent lamps or special phytolamps.

With the onset of warm days in spring and summer the hydrangea is hardened- taken out to fresh air during the day for several hours. gradually the hardening time is increased and soon they leave flowers on the street and at night.

Young plants are taken indoors in the fall, before night temperatures drop to negative values.

The easiest way to reproduce is dividing a bush.

In domestic plants, this procedure is carried out during transplantation, in spring... In shrubs grown outdoors, division can be carried out in spring or autumn.

An adult plant is dug up and divided with a sharp knife so that each division gets its own renewal point, root system and ground green part.
The separated plants are treated with charcoal powder for drying and disinfection, or they are sprinkled on the wound surface with wood ash.
The resulting bushes are planted in separate pots.

Hydrangea also reproduces successfully air layering- lateral shoots, which are bent and pinned to the ground surface.

From above, such layers are sprinkled with a small layer of soil, which is maintained in a constantly moist state. The tip of the cut is about 15 - 20 cm... at the same time there should be above the surface of the earth.

For several weeks, it will be possible to observe new shoots emerging from the ground - this indicates that new roots have appeared in the leaf nodes.

The advantage of this method is that from each layer, you can get several plants at once that retain varietal characteristics, and the mother bush will not suffer at all.

After the appearance of new shoots, you should not immediately separate the layers from the mother bush - they completely separate it only six months after dropping.

6.1 Transfer

The plant is transplanted in January or February... The best time for a transplant is start of new growth- when the buds swell and new leaves appear, but there are no inflorescences yet.

Young bushes as they grow transplanted annually, each time increasing the diameter of the pot 2 - 4 cm... Mature plants will need replanting every 2 - 3 years for changing the substrate to fresh soil mixture.

Flowering bushes should not be transplanted.

For cultivation select cramped pots with large drainage holes.
At the bottom of the pots, drainage is laid out in the form of expanded clay or broken brick.
The drainage layer is sprinkled with a small layer of nutrient soil.
The bushes are transferred or transplanted into a new pot, sprinkled with fresh earth and tamped well.
After transplanting the plants, carefully watered a large amount of warm water, and the excess moisture from the pan is drained a few minutes after watering.
The transplanted hydrangeas are placed in a well-lit place, but sheltered from direct sunlight.

After 3 - 4 weeks after transplanting the plant, you can feed for the first time a weak solution of fertilizers. It is not worth feeding immediately after transplanting - the fresh soil already contains enough nutrients, and the root system disturbed by the transplant can get burned from the use of fertilizers.

6.2 Growing at home, pruning

How to care for a potted hydrangea? Despite the fact that hydrangea is not a houseplant in the truest sense of the word, keeping it indoors is not as difficult as it might seem. Caring for a hydrangea at home does not require a lot of time and labor.

Since often varietal hydrangea bushes form too large inflorescences that can break thin branches, the bushes provide support.

Too long stems after flowering cut to 1/3 of the length... In order for the plant to look more dense young shoots pinch just above the first pair of leaves.

During the first 3 - 4 years of life, the shrub do not touch allowing it to develop on its own. After the plants reach 4 - 5 years, their begin to form, and the timing of pruning here will depend on the type of hydrangea.

If buds form on the shoots of the current year(in tree and panicle hydrangeas), then pruning is carried out immediately after wintering- they correct the shape of the bush, and at the same time remove all weak and diseased shoots, as well as branches that thicken the plants.

If flowers appear on the branches of the second year(large-leaved, oakleaf, petiolate and prickly varieties), then they are cut to shape the bush immediately after flowering, and sanitary pruning is also carried out, with the appearance of the first signs of growth, in the spring.

Each type of hydrangea can react differently to pruning. For some varieties, pruning helps to form a large number of side shoots and over time their flowering will become very abundant, while others should be pruned rather weakly.

Good attitude for cardinal haircut tree hydrangea- its stems can be safely shortened by cutting off most of the length.

Panicle hydrangea is wary of pruning and should be corrected by only removing a third of the length of the longest branches.

When growing large-leaved hydrangea it is only worth cutting off the stems that are too thickening the crown. in the absence of pruning, not only the shape of the bush and its health suffers, but it will also affect the flowering.

Uncut bushes will form a large number of inflorescences, but they will be small - the plant simply does not have the strength to form large clusters of flowers.

Cropping helps rejuvenate old bushes- this procedure is carried out every 2 - 3 years, cutting off the oldest stems at the base, and once every five years, you can cut off almost all the green mass to the base, leaving 15 - 20 cm of growth.

6.3 Fertilizers

During the period of active growth, feeding home hydrangea is carried out 2 times a month... Feed plants grown in acidic soil with heather or azalea fertilizer.

Do not overdo it with organic- in response to the introduction of humus or manure, hydrangea can abundantly increase the green mass, but flowering will become scarce or not at all.

Autumn and winter bushes do not feed- provide them with a period of rest in cool and dry conditions.

Fertilization is worth doing after thorough watering- in this way the root system will not get burned from the application of a too concentrated fertilizer solution.

Transplanted specimens and diseased plants should not be fed.

When grown outdoors, a mixture of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium sulfate can be used as a mineral supplement.

6.4 Soil

Well-drained, nutritious and loose, a mixture of heather, peat and coarse sand will work to improve drainage.

In general, potted hydrangeas prefer a rather neutral or slightly acidic pH. about 5.5... Plants will look painful when grown in an alkaline medium.

The shade of flowers of a large-leaved variety depends on the pH of the soil. For other hydrangeas, the shade of flowers in which does not depend on the pH of the soil, you can use a mixture of humus, peat and sand.

6.5 Flowering time

May June... The flowering period in the open field and when growing hydrangeas at home is very long - it takes 5 - 6 months and can be interrupted on the street by the onset of frost. With proper care, hydrangeas bloom very profusely.

6.6 Watering the hydrangea

During growth and flowering, it is necessary abundant and regular watering... The soil must always remain moist.

If the hydrangea is grown in an acidic substrate, use it for watering soft water... From time to time, you can add a few crystals of citric acid or drops of lemon juice to the water for irrigation.

From late autumn, the frequency of watering is reduced.

For watering use softened water at room temperature- for example bottled, rain, thawed.

To reduce the hardness, ordinary baking soda can be added to tap water - a teaspoon per 2 liters of water.

6.7 Containment Procedures - Temperature

The hydrangea bloom period will last up to 2 months when kept cool - with temperature below 16 ° C... However, it is quite difficult to maintain this temperature indoors.

At a temperature about 20 ° C hydrangea bloom will take 3-4 weeks maximum.

In winter, during the dormant period, keep the plant at a temperature from 4 to 7 ° С while providing very good air movement and gradually increase the temperature of the content with the appearance of new growth.

6.8 Lighting

Hydrangea needs a well-lit place without the scorching rays of the sun. When kept outdoors in summer and spring, the plant is placed in partial shade.

Spring and summer bushes shade in the daytime but in the morning and evening they allow the plants to enjoy the bright sunshine.

Direct rays hitting the leaves during the day will not cause burns, but will contribute to the fading of the color of the flowers - they will simply fade.

When grown in partial shade, the plants will become elongated and bloom less abundantly.

In autumn and winter, you can pick up for a flower the most illuminated place- after all, at this time the activity of the sun comes to naught and it often remains behind the clouds.

The most suitable for keeping hydrangeas at home are considered to be windows overlooking southeast or southwest... When growing from the south side the flower should be slightly drowned deep into the room or shaded with a light tulle curtain, and when kept on the northern windowsills the plant must be provided artificial lighting.

They tolerate direct sunlight or partial shade of oak-leaved and paniculate hydrangeas.

6.9 Spraying

It quite calmly transfers the dry air of living quarters and will need spraying only on the hottest spring and summer days.

For spraying use only warm and well-settled water. When spraying, cover the inflorescences with your hand, since moisture drops on them can ruin the appearance of the flowers.

To increase air humidity, you can use room humidifier or anyone with condemnation with water left near the bush.

Hydrangea prefers to stay in well-ventilated areas. with good air circulation, however, it is worth protecting the plants from the effects of cold drafts.

7 diseases and pests

In general, hydrangea is very resistant to both diseases and pest infestations, but with illiterate care, problems can arise.

Flowers and leaves dry up with a lack of water. Submerge the plant from the pots in water for 3 minutes and let the water drain.
With a lack of light leaves turn yellow.
Due to watering with too hard water, chlorosis.
Plant stops growth with a lack of nutrients.

From pests nematodes, spider mites, aphids, weevils, snails and slugs appear.

Insects are pests

Insect name	Signs of infection	Control measures
	The leaf blades turn yellow in places located between the veins, then turn brown, black. Eventually, the leaves fall off the plants. When the root system is damaged, the plant becomes weak and withers before our eyes for no apparent reason.	Traditional methods: destruction of infected parts of plants, abundant watering with hot water at a temperature of about 70 ° C, a hot bath - immersing the pot in a large container of water at a temperature of 55 ° C for 20 minutes. Chemicals: anthelmintics.
	Subtle spider webs on the leaves, yellowing and foliage falling off with extensive lesions. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down.	Folk ways. Plants can be rinsed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemical preparations based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik.
	Sticky droplets appear on the leaf plates, the leaf plates curl and deform, delicate buds and young leaves wither. Insect colonies can be seen on the tops of the shoots, on the buds or on the underside of the leaf plates. The flowers of aphid-infested plants may become deformed.	Folk methods: infusion of nettle, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, infusion of tobacco and dandelion, onions, marigolds, yarrow, tansy, dusting with dry ash. Chemical preparations: Sulfur powders, green mass treatment with green potash soap without getting into the ground, Decis, Aktellik, Fitoverm.
	Small denticles appear along the edges of the leaf plates, leaves and shoots of plants lose their turgor	Folk methods: transplantation with a complete replacement of the substrate. The surface of the soil can be covered with plastic wrap for several days in order to prevent adult insects from entering to lay eggs. Adult insects are easy to pick up by hand at night. Spraying with hot pepper decoction. Chemicals: Bona Forte; Fitoverm; Actellik; Fufanon-Nova; Aktara; Kinmix.
Snails, slugs	Through holes in leaf blades, traces of mucus on the surface of the leaves.	Folk methods: manual collection of harmful insects, dusting plant leaves with mustard and hot pepper, wood ash mixed with baking soda, tobacco dust. Chemicals: superphosphate granules, copper preparations, Thunderstorm, Slime-eater, Antislime, Meta.

7.1 Intended use

Hydrangea will not go unnoticed either indoors or in the garden.

Flowers of plants can be used for cutting - cut shoots do not lose their attractiveness for a long time in a vase of water. Nowadays, florists often use hydrangea to make bouquets.

The attractive appearance of the plant allows it to be widely used in landscape design when grown outdoors, in the garden.

The intoxicating aroma of flowers allows plants to attract many insects to the garden - hydrangea is an excellent honey plant.

7.2 Note

Potted hydrangeas can live 3-4 years in the house... The main difficulty in keeping is to provide the plant with a cool dormant period with constant ventilation.

All parts of the plant are very poisonous... Keep it away from children and pets.

7.3 Hydroponics

When grown hydroponically, root decay is possible.

8. Varieties and types of hydrangeas:

8.1.Hydrangea paniculata, paniculata or conical - Hydrangea paniculata

Panicle hydrangeas are low, lush garden shrubs of a rounded shape, up to 1.8 - 3 m high, with abundant branching stems. During the flowering period, long, flexible, woody at the base of the stem, incline low to the ground under the weight of large, heavy inflorescences. This plant comes from Asian regions and from Sakhalin Island, it is considered one of the most cold-resistant types of hydrangea. The plant has oval, dark green leaves with a branched network of leaf veins on the surface of the plates and a finely toothed margin. Flower clusters form in the warm season on the tops of the shoots and reach a length of 25 - 30 cm, consist of many small, colorful flowers with four rounded petals. Flower shades include white, green, pink, yellowish, red, lilac, burgundy. Flowering occurs on the shoots of the current year, so the compact shape of the plant is easy to maintain by pruning. The plant got its name for the characteristic shape of the flower brushes. Due to its spectacular appearance and rather high frost resistance, this variety has found wide application in landscape design.

8.2. Hydrangea paniculata Vanilla Fraise - Hydrangea paniculata Vanille Fraise

Large-flowered panicle hydrangea with very abundant and long-lasting flowering that begins in mid-summer and continues until mid-autumn. The flower panicles have a cream or white hue, but every day the flower petals become more and more pink - as a result, young brushes are painted in light tones, and those that fade - in a rich pink color.

8.3. Hydrangea paniculata Phantom - Hydrangea paniculata Phantom

Large shrubs with a rounded crown, which can reach a height of 2.5 m. Shoots branch profusely at the base, with age they are covered with dark bark. The apical racemose inflorescences reach a length of 30 cm. A distinctive feature of the variety is that the buds and just blossoming flowers have a greenish color, as the petals open, the flowers turn white, and before withering they acquire a delicate pink tint. Flowering is long, begins in July and may last until the first frost.

8.4.Hydrangea paniculata Limelight - Hydrangea paniculata Limelight

Sprawling deciduous shrubs 2 - 2.5 m high. They develop quickly and form a lush rounded crown, consisting of abundantly branching shoots. The plant comes from China and Japan, has dark green, oval leaves. During the flowering period, the plant adorns itself with apical flower panicles up to 30 cm long and up to 24 cm in diameter. The first flowers open in July, flowering continues in August and ends in September. Only the blossoming flowers are painted in a delicate greenish tint, as the brushes fade, they acquire a white or sometimes pink color.

8.5. Hydrangea paniculata Tardiva - Hydrangea paniculata Tardiva

Large deciduous shrubs, reaching a height of 2.5 - 3.5 m. Plants have erect, rapidly growing, abundantly branched stems at the base. The leaves are dark green, oval, with branched veins and a finely toothed margin. The variety is distinguished by apical pyramidal, pointed flower panicles up to 25 cm long. The flowers are spectacular, rather large, white, turn purple-pink as they bloom, have a charming aroma. The flower clusters are quite heavy, which is why the stems often lean towards the ground.

8.6 Treelike hydrangea - Hydrangea arborescens

The plant comes from the eastern United States of America. Shrubs have thin, flexible, profusely branched stems 90-150 cm high. The leaves are opposite, rounded or slightly oval, with small denticles along the edge, dark green, 12-18 cm long. The lower surface of the leaf blades often has a lighter shade. In the autumn months, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Rounded inflorescences, up to 30 cm in diameter, consist of small, white, lilac, greenish, pink flowers.

8.7. Tree hydrangea "Annabelle" - Hydrangea arborescens Annabelle

Treelike hydrangea up to 150 cm high. The variety has good frost resistance. Leaves are green, broadly lanceolate. Small greenish flowers are collected in rounded inflorescences at the tops of the shoots, reaching a diameter of 30 cm, acquire a white tint as they bloom. Varietal plants bloom annually, even after heavy pruning, with which the compact form of the plant is easily maintained.

8.8. Hydrangea arborescens Hayes Starburst - Hydrangea arborescens Hayes Starburst

Compact, deciduous shrubs, the height of which is only 60 - 120 cm. The flowering period is very long - it can take all the summer months and lasts until mid-October. The plant forms apical semicircular or rounded inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter. Young, only opening buds have a greenish tint, but as they mature, they turn into double white flowers. The flowers have many pointed petals. Shrubs during flowering often bend their branches close to the ground under the weight of flowers. The leaves are oblong, lanceolate, with a branched network of veins and not large denticles along the edge of the leaf blades.

8.9. Large-leaved hydrangea, macrophylla or changeable - Hydrangea macrophylla

Spectacular flowering shrub, reaching a height of 100 - 180 cm. Abundant stems branched at the base form a dense, rounded crown. The leaves are serrated, ovate, oval, dark green, 10 - 20 cm long. The leaf veins form an abundant branched network, slightly recessed into the leaf blades. In the summer months, umbrella-shaped or rounded inflorescences with fairly large, brightly colored flowers are formed at the tops of the shoots of the shoots. Large-leaved hydrangea can change the shade of flowers depending on the pH of the soil. An acidic pH causes the plant to form flowers of blue and purple hues; in alkaline soil, pink will be predominant. When pruning, it is worth considering the fact that some shrubs bloom on the shoots of shoots of previous growth - such plants are pruned immediately after flowering.

8.10. Hydrangea petiolar - Hydrangea petiolaris

An interesting feature of these ornamental shrub hydrangeas is that young specimens grow rather slowly and form shrubs, the growth rate increases with age, and the shoots become long, liana-like, reaching 9 m in length.The plant has long roots that help it cling to any support ... Lignified stems covered with light peeling bark. Inflorescences - umbrellas reach 15 cm in diameter, consist of small white flowers with four round petals. The leaves are emerald green, heart-shaped, with a finely toothed edge, reaching a length of 10 cm. In autumn, the leaves acquire a golden-yellow hue and fall off. During the flowering period, the plants emit a very pleasant aroma.

8.11. Oak-leaved hydrangea - Hydrangea quercifolia

Flowering deciduous shrubs native to the southeastern United States of America. The plant is tall, reaching 2 - 2.5 m in height. The leaves are bright green, rounded, palmate - carved, reminiscent of maple leaves. Early flowering - it can come as early as May and lasts for several months. During the flowering period, large inflorescences are formed on the tops of the shoots - cylindrical panicles, consisting of small flowers. An interesting feature is that only opening flowers have a greenish tint, fully opened flowers turn white, and before withering, the flowers acquire a pink or even reddish tint. In the fall months, the leaves turn burgundy or red and fall off. There are terry options for oakleaf hydrangea.

8.12. Serrata hydrangea - Hydrangea serrata

Medium-sized spreading bushes with profusely branched stems at the base, covered with brown bark. Leaves are simple, broadly lanceolate, located on short petioles. Inflorescences are large, apical, and consist of 20-50 white flowers.

8.13. Hydrangea "Bretschneider" - Hydrangea bretschneideri

Large-leaved, flowering shrubs native to Japan and Korea. The plant is compact and can grow up to 60 - 120 cm in height. In appearance, the shrubs resemble a large-leaved hydrangea, but they have more modest dimensions. Leaves up to 12 cm long, bright green, oblong-lanceolate, with small denticles along the edge. Leaf veins are often highlighted in a lighter shade. The flowers are collected in apical umbellate inflorescences, the shades of the petals depend on the pH of the soil - in acidic soil, plants form blue or purple flowers, and in alkaline soil, pink ones. When pruning, it is worth remembering that inflorescences appear on the shoots of the previous season.

8.14. Ground cover hydrangea - Hydrangea heteromalla

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