Stepladders are convenient folding ladders that can be moved around the house. There are such products different sizes and suitable for various types works They are made from wood, metal and other materials. Metal stepladders are the most durable, but making them with your own hands is quite problematic. Therefore, most often to create stairs they take wooden boards. This product is lightweight and very easy to make. Even a non-professional can handle the job.
How to make a stepladder
For the manufacture of standard stairs you will need 14 meters of timber measuring 60 × 40 mm and beams 4 m long for cutting out the racks. You need to prepare 4 of them. It is better to take wood with a reserve. To make steps and crossbars, you will need two bars 59 cm wide, three bars 41 cm each and one bar each 54.5, 45 and 50 cm. Then you need to apply markings to the support posts. The steps will be located at a distance of 40 cm, the lowest should be approximately 10 cm from the edge of the stepladder. The grooves are knocked out to a depth of 15 cm.
The base of the staircase is assembled from the main posts and rungs. The distance between the upper steps should be 40 cm, and at the bottom - 60 cm. The steps are connected to the corresponding grooves using screws or nails. An additional crossbar must be nailed to the top of the stairs on the reverse side. The diagram for creating a stepladder with your own hands from wood is in the photo below.
Creating a retaining part
The supporting part is made without steps and is connected by crossbars at the top and bottom. Another additional element- an oblique beam used to strengthen the structure. The distance between the upper and lower beams should be 30 cm. After assembling both parts of the stepladder, they need to be connected to each other. The support element is installed so that its upper part is between the additional crossbar and the upper step of the base.
This arrangement allows you to avoid unnecessary fastening from above and move the legs apart to the required distance, choosing a stable position for the ladder. It is advisable to equip a stepladder made of wood with your own hands with additional fastenings and hooks to facilitate the placement of work equipment. A piece of pipe screwed to the crossbar will serve for convenient placement of large tools.
How to make a structure safe
If a do-it-yourself wooden stepladder was attached only to wood glue or wooden plugs, two spokes are made in the back, fixed crosswise under the steps with bolts or nuts. This allows you to strengthen the structure. Another way to add security is to place it between the bars wooden blocks, equal in length to the gap. To increase reliability, chains or cords are attached to the sides of the structure so that the ladder does not move apart.
Leg attachments
To make a stepladder out of wood with your own hands, it is not enough to use only wooden blocks and screws. A mandatory element in the design are special anti-slip attachments on the legs. They will also protect the floor from damage from the sharp edges of the legs. The nozzles are made of rubber or ribbed plastic. You can make them yourself using cork plugs or felt circles cut from old felt boots and attached with self-tapping screws. Some craftsmen use a conveyor belt and braid the legs with stretch film.
A DIY stepladder made of wood will become safer if, to create anti-slip attachments, you cut pieces of picket fence slightly wider than the diameter of the leg. They are attached to iron corners or screws. This option allows you not to weigh down the structure and use ready product not only indoors, but also in the garden. To prevent the ladder from falling when installed on the ground, its legs can be fastened to a board by cutting holes in it, and used as one long “shoe.”
Do-it-yourself stepladder made of wood as a shelf for small items
In modern Japanese houses there are often small niches in the wall, decorated drawers and corners where collections and favorite items of the owners of the house are located. A do-it-yourself wooden stepladder can become a shelf for storing various small items. with steps both sides. You can make two identical stairs. A diagram of how to make a stepladder out of wood with your own hands was given above. Then the elements need to be connected to each other using fastenings.
Using such a piece of furniture allows you to beautifully organize space and save space in the apartment. On the stairs you can place items collected during travel, collections of porcelain figurines, books and other small interior elements. To create the product you will need:
- step ladder;
- drill-driver;
- drill ;
- saw;
- L-shaped brackets;
- pine boards;
- screws.
Assembling a rack from a ladder
From pine boards blanks of 120, 100, 80 and 60 cm for shelves are cut out. Then the ladder needs to be installed in the right place where you plan to place the shelf for small items. All shelves are located on cross bars to adjust the width of the legs and the size of the boards.
After this, the crossbars are secured with brackets using a drill on four sides, moving from bottom to top. Now unusual detail the interior is ready. All that remains is to fill the rack with various small figurines and decorative elements.
DIY stepladder chair made of wood
The undeniable advantages of a stepladder are its compactness and easy storage. If you fold this ladder, you can put it in a closet or hang it on the wall. Therefore, in small spaces(in a small kitchen) it is more convenient to use folding furniture: chairs, tables and stands, which after use can simply be hidden behind the door.
If there is very little space in the apartment and there is nowhere to store even a small ladder, you can make your own step stool, which does not require a large space for storage. But the height of such a product is small, so it is best to use it indoors. It is not difficult to create a compact stepladder from wood with your own hands. It can be used not only to get hard-to-reach items, but also as a replacement for stools and chairs.
To work, you will need 4.5 cm thick boards and several 3.5 x 4.5 cm bars. Wooden pins, screws or nails are used to fasten the wood.
Assembly of the structure
Because of small sizes designs, its manufacture and assembly require careful and attentive treatment. To work, you will need an exact drawing with the dimensions according to which the parts need to be made. If you make a mistake in the dimensions, a DIY stepladder made of wood will not fold and unfold correctly. Structural elements should not interfere with each other when moving. The lower steps of the chair are attached to rotating pins and when assembled, the stairs should be inside the stool. You can add a special locking element to the drawing to secure the stepladder in the unfolded state.
How to make a multifunctional step stool
A stepladder in the house is most often used during renovations and occasionally to get hard-to-reach items from the top drawers of cabinets or from the mezzanine. The rest of the time the folding ladder sits idle, but by adding a few new parts it can be turned into a useful and practical thing. Such a product will be used not only for homework, but will also serve as a table, bed, easel and for other purposes.
To make a multifunctional stepladder, take boards 1.5 m long and 6 cm thick. Grooves for the steps are cut into the supports, and the support is made from a crossbar, for which additional holes are drilled to allow it to be moved. The structure is assembled on hinges, and additional supporting parts are screwed to the support boards, the edges of which are filed at the desired angle. The lower edges are connected with a piano hinge, then protection against the legs moving apart is not required. Fastening with a piano loop will fix the stepladder in the desired position.
Options for using a stepladder
Folding ladders made of wood can be used for drawing, just place it on top part wide board and secure the paper on it. A stepladder will become a decorative element if you paint it and turn it into a shelf or rack. If you connect two stepladders and place wide board in the center, they will turn into a bed or a wide table.
Every home needs a stepladder. This oversized chair (or stand) with long legs allows you to reach things that are placed too high. It will come in handy when replacing a light bulb and will make it much easier to remove or hang curtains on curtain rods. Design on summer cottage will become an indispensable assistant when harvesting or forming crowns on trees. A do-it-yourself stepladder will allow you to take into account all the nuances and requirements of the owner and the craftsman.
Drawing of a ladder for making a stepladder.
Selection of models and materials
There are several varieties of such small ladders, among which it is quite possible to choose the right one. The most common stepladder is a stand with legs screwed to it. These supports can be folded, thereby significantly reducing the space required. The design of the ladder can be more complex. For example, it can be made in the form of a stepladder chair. It folds and transforms into a chair that can be used for its intended purpose. Another example of an unusual stepladder design is a ladder, in which several tiers can be folded thanks to the presence of guides and special clamps.
Stepladder ladder drawing.
The stepladder can be made of metal in combination with wood. But at the same time, if it is made entirely of wood, then it is in no way inferior in strength and reliability to its metal counterparts. Wood is the material from which a DIY stepladder chair would be the best option.
Wood, in addition to ease of processing, has a number of advantages (environmental friendliness, natural beauty, the possibility of manufacturing from improvised means), which allows you to choose it as the main material.
In order for a DIY stepladder chair to be sufficiently reliable and stable, it is necessary to maintain certain proportions. For example, the seat (or support platform) should be 30x50 cm in size, the distance between the support leg and the adjacent one should be 60 cm. The number of steps will be determined independently and depends on the step of their location. For such dimensions, 2-3 are enough, which are located at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other.
What might be required for the job?
Diagram of the relationship between the height of a stepladder and the number of steps.
The stepladder starts with the fact that you need to prepare everything Consumables and the tools with which the work will be done:
- electric or cordless drill with drills that are suitable for woodworking;
- self-tapping screws;
- bolt, nut and washer;
- electric jigsaw or saw with fine teeth;
- tape measure, pencil and square;
- sandpaper;
- drying oil and varnish, a brush for applying them;
- wooden blocks with a cross section of 40x70 mm for racks;
- slats with a cross section of 20x70 cm for the base.
Installation diagram of hinges for a stepladder.
The design of the staircase itself provides for the sequential production and assembly of parts:
- seat or support platform;
- supports for support;
- staircase with steps;
- slats that will group all the parts together.
They start by cutting off measured sections of the slats using a jigsaw. They must be without knots. After the cut is completed, it is necessary to treat the surface sandpaper or grinder. This will make the surface smooth, but will preserve the color and texture of the wood. 7 parts are cut at once: 5 for the seat and 2 for the lintel.
In order to get a comfortable seat, as well as a convenient platform when climbing to a height, it is enough to fasten 5 slats together. They will serve as a base that must be fastened together with a crossbar. To do this, 5 slats and 2 crossbars are placed perpendicularly at the same distance. You can fasten parts together in 2 ways:
- using self-tapping screws, caps that need to be deepened;
- by making a groove on the main slats equal to the width of the crossbar, and gluing the seat elements together.
If gluing is chosen as fastening, then after finishing the work you need to let the glue harden and the seat gain rigidity and reliability.
Parts of the supporting structure
Basic type and dimensions of a small stepladder.
The supporting elements are cut off from the timber. It, just like slats, should be good quality, without chips, cracks or other damage that could impair the reliability of the stepladder in the future. If you still cannot avoid using the knotty part, then perhaps there is a need to revise the design of the staircase, which will allow for more efficient use raw material. The final distance between the supporting parts must be such that the previously manufactured seat can be accurately secured.
The supporting part is a combination of 5 pieces of bars, 2 of which are main, and 3 are connecting. Two of the fastening parts are placed perpendicular to the main ones. They form a rectangle, and one is attached diagonally. This connection provides the necessary rigidity of the structure.
They can be connected using a specially made tongue-and-groove joint or self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. If a fastening is used without using metal elements, then after making the groove and tenon, it is better to glue these parts before assembly. After this, it is advisable to place all assembled structure between 2 boards that will hold it tightly until the glue completely hardens.
The elements of the staircase can be made of timber, and its steps can be made of slats.
Stepladder ladder arrangement.
But it should be remembered that the guides of the stairs must be sawed off, taking into account the fact that in the future they will be at an angle to the horizontal surface. In this case, the steps are positioned strictly perpendicular.
The angle at which the ladder will be fixed can be determined by selection. To do this, you need to assemble all the elements of the stepladder without fastening it so that the distance between supporting part stepladders and stairs was approximately 60 cm. In this case, it is necessary that the seat (or upper platform) be positioned strictly vertically. After determining the angle, the block is cut.
On the side parts of the stairs, cuts are made that are equal in thickness to the height of the steps. The number of holes is equal to the number of steps. After this, the prepared elements are placed in the cuts and fixed with glue. The fastening can also be done using self-tapping screws. Additionally, strips can be screwed under the steps, which will expand the platform for supporting the step.
The staircase, support structure and seat are connected to each other. To avoid any problems when folding, the upper parts are rounded. Then they will not cling to each other. Fastening is carried out using bolts with a nut and washer. This fastening allows you to fold the stepladder for storage.
The finished product is coated with a primer and several layers of varnish. Moreover, on such details as steps and seats, it is better to make their number large. This is due to the fact that these elements are most susceptible to wear.
Probably almost every one of us made something out of wood at the dacha. Some made an ordinary stool, others made a more complex product. In our article we will try to tell you how to make a staircase in your dacha, with which you can do a wide variety of work. After all, you must admit, it’s nice to make a garden ladder with your own hands, and then, with its help, collect several buckets of ripe fruit.
Step ladders are special portable ladders designed to perform a wide variety of tasks. They are used both in household, for example, for pruning trees or lowering into a well, and in libraries and even in aviation. Stepladders used in our everyday life can be divided into the following types:
- Lightweight portable ladder
- Folding ladder
You cannot make a wooden staircase without knowing its dimensions. We took the tested ones - 150 cm height, 52 cm width of the lower part, 40 cm width of the upper part.
To assemble a portable ladder with your own hands you will need:
- Bars size 6x3x150 cm, 2 pcs.
- Boards size 6x2x47, 4 pcs.
- Hand router or chisel
- Self-tapping screws 75mm, 16 pcs.
- Protractor
- Roulette
- Pencil
- Ruler
- Hacksaw for metal
- Kiyanka
Marking the space for the grooves of the steps
The beams will serve as the supporting part of our stairs and the first thing to do is to mark the grooves on them for the steps. The step size (distance between steps) is chosen to be 35 cm, and the step angle is 105 degrees.
To do this, take a tape measure and a pencil, apply the tape measure to the wide part of the block (6cm) and measure 35 centimeters from the bottom. We put a mark “A” on the edge of the block, this will be the beginning of the groove for the step. From the mark set, we measure another 2 cm and put a new mark “B”, this will be the width of the step. See Fig.1.
Fig.1 Now our task is to measure the angle of inclination of the step and put 2 more marks on the opposite edge of the block. To do this, take a protractor, place its center at point “A”, look for an angle of 105 degrees on the divisions. Then we apply a ruler so that a line is formed between the center of the protractor and the 105 degree division. In the place where the opposite edge of the block will connect to the ruler, place the mark “D”. We do the same with the marks “B” and “C”. When we have all 4 points, under the ruler we connect them with lines, “A” and “D”, “B” and “C”. The place for the groove of the first stage is ready. See Fig.2.
Fig.2 It is not necessary to use a protractor to mark subsequent steps. It’s enough just to measure 35 centimeters up from each of the previous points and put new 4 points, and then connect them with lines in the same way.
We do the same with the second supporting part. Or, in order to save time, after taking measurements on the first block, you can place two supports end-to-end and move the marks on one side. Afterwards, attach the second support to the other side of the first support and copy the marks from there. All that remains is to draw lines between the points.
Cutting grooves for steps
If after difficult measurements you haven’t given up and given up the idea of making a stepladder with your own hands, let’s continue. Using a hacksaw for metal, along the drawn lines on the bars, we make light cuts, thereby creating a kind of guides. Then we set the depth to 5mm on the router and make a selection along our guides. If you don't have hand router, you can use a chisel, remember that the depth of the groove should be 5mm.
We measure the first and last step
Since our staircase is wider at the bottom and narrower at the top, we need to know the length of each step. To do this, it is enough for us to know the dimensions of the first and last steps. To find out the size of the first step, we need to take the width of the stairs at the bottom 52 cm and subtract the thickness of the supports 3 cm. But since we made grooves, we need to subtract the depth of the groove 0.5 cm from the thickness of the supports, we get 2.5 cm. As a result, from 52 cm, we subtract 2.5 cm twice (since there are two supports), the length of the first step will be 47 cm. For the last, highest stage, we perform the same calculations. The width of the top of the stairs is 42 cm, so 42-2.5-2.5 = 37 cm. 
If you have already prepared boards of the specified sizes according to our list, then you do not need to cut anything from the first step. You only need to cut 10cm from the last step to get a board 37cm long. Otherwise, make two boards 47 and 37cm respectively.
To obtain the dimensions of the second and third steps, we need to do preliminary assembly.
We do preliminary assembly
Place one of the supports on hard surface so that the grooves for the steps are on top. We take the first step, insert it into the first groove and hammer it in with a mallet until it stops, then do the same with the last step, but hammer it into the last groove.
At the place where the step will be inserted into the groove, you can remove the edge with a chisel, this will make it easier to install the steps.
We take the second support and place it on top of the protruding steps, observing the grooves. All that remains is to nail the support beam with a mallet to secure the structure. To prevent the steps from moving out, we secure them to the outside of the supports with self-tapping screws. 4 screws for each step, 2 on one side and two on the other. Part of our staircase is ready, all that remains is to measure and install the second and third steps.
We measure out the remaining steps
Now that we already have finished design, you can measure the length of the remaining steps. To do this, we take our boards and apply them to the corresponding grooves, and mark everything that does not fit into the groove with a pencil and then cut it off. Of course, you can use formulas and initially calculate the size of the steps, but this method has one drawback. If during the calculation process, or when cutting out grooves and steps, an error is made, even by 1-2 mm, your steps may turn out to be shorter or longer than they should be. And if the long ones can be trimmed, then the short ones can no longer be used in this design.
Final assembly
To complete the structure, all that remains is to mount the remaining 2 steps. To do this, we place our structure on a hard surface towards us front side. We install the steps into the grooves and carefully hammer them in with a mallet. We also secure it on the sides with self-tapping screws. Our portable wooden ladder is ready.
If the steps become loose during operation or you simply want to strengthen the structure, you can install corners under the steps on both sides and place them on 4 self-tapping screws, 2 in the step and 2 in the supporting structure.
Application of portable ladder
Most often, a wooden staircase is used in the country or in country house. For example, a stepladder for wells will help carry out repair work in hard-to-reach places. And here garden stairs This subspecies is used for pruning trees.
Folding ladder
To do sliding staircase, we need to follow the instructions above to make 2 identical portable stairs, and then fasten them with door canopies and install a platform on the top step. The only difference between the designs is that the first step of the second staircase should start not from 35cm, but from 20cm, while all other steps will also move down by 15cm. If we want to extend the ladder lengthwise, this will allow us to maintain a step size of 35cm at the junction of the ladders.
To make a stepladder with your own hands you will need:
- A set of materials for a lightweight portable ladder, in duplicate
- Oblong door awnings, 2 pcs.
- Plywood 34x50
- M6 bolts, length 75mm, 4 pcs.
- M6 bolts, length 50mm, 2 pcs. (nuts 4 pcs.)
- Bolts longer than the thickness of the plywood, 5 pcs.
- Self-tapping screws 55mm, 4 pcs.
- Level
- Furniture corner oblong, 2 pcs.
- Z-shaped furniture corner, 1 pc.
Fastening with door awnings
In order to turn our timber ladder into a stepladder, we need fasteners that will connect the two ladders into one. Special brackets are usually used for this role, but since we are making the stairs from scrap materials, we will choose more accessible view fastenings, namely door awnings. If you are assembling a staircase at your dacha with your own hands, look in the barn, you can probably find this part there, and if not, you can purchase it at any hardware store or on the market. 
Ideally, it should be an oblong canopy, no more than 4 cm wide, with a mounting length of at least 6 cm. Holes for bolts must be drilled or bored in the canopy. Next, we fold the stairs with their tops facing each other and attach the door canopies so that after folding the stairs they are inside the triangle. On the beams of the stairs we make marks in those places where the awnings will be bolted. In the marked marks we drill holes for the diameter of the bolts. Next, we screw in the self-tapping screws, insert 75mm bolts and on the back side, first put a washer on the bolt, then tighten the nuts. Your mount is ready. 
To prevent the nuts from loosening, you can cap the bolt.
Installation of the platform
In the design of the stairs that we will use, the platform will play the role of not only a stand. To prevent the ladder from moving apart, it must be secured somehow. To do this, we will install a special fastening on our support platform, which will prevent the structure from diverging. 
As a platform, you can take a piece of plywood suitable size, or make it out of wood at the dacha. A seat from an old chair will also work. The width of the platform should be 34cm.
We take a level and place it on the very top step of one of the stairs, and on the other level we make a mark where the platform will be attached using a corner. We repeat the procedure on the opposite side. 
We apply a corner to the mark and drill a hole for a bolt that will fasten the ladder to the corner. 
In order for our corner to be movable, we must first outside stairs, insert a 55mm bolt, and from the inside, first a washer, then screw in a nut, then put on the corner itself and another nut, but do not tighten it all the way. Thus, the angle is located between two nuts, thereby allowing it to rotate around the axis of the bolt. On the other side of the stairs we fasten the corner in the same way. 
We install plywood on the top of the corner and make a mark for the holes for the bolts that will fasten the plywood and the corner. We drill holes to match the diameter of the bolts, and on top of the platform where we will insert the bolts, we make a hole according to the diameter of the bolt head, so that the bolt fits in flush and does not protrude on the surface in the future. We secure the corners and the platform with bolts and nuts. The final step remains to attach the platform to the opposite step.
Upper platform fastening
If we don’t want our stairs to move apart, we need to create a mechanism that will prevent the stairs from moving apart. There are many options for such mounts, but in our model we will use the top platform. To do this, we need a z-shaped corner, as shown in the picture Fig. 3.
Fig.3 If you don’t have one, you can try to bend the required shape from the usual one.
The purpose of this corner is to be a hook and cling to the top step of the stairs. It will be attached with a bolt to the platform.
Following the principle of fastening the previous corners, we fasten the z-shaped one in the center of the platform so that when it is rotated around the bolt, it clings to the upper step. 
This, firstly, will prevent the platform from turning over, and secondly, it will not allow the ladder to move apart; the wooden stepladder is ready.
Application of a folding ladder
Garden ladders of this subspecies can be used both for pruning trees and for picking fruit. All thanks to the top platform on which you can install a bucket. Stepladder for wells made of folding stairs is possible only if the staircase unfolds 180 degrees. Also, due to its compactness, the stepladder can easily be used inside the home to carry out repair work on high.
Below is a detailed video:
A stepladder is very useful device for household needs. Without it, it is difficult to finish the ceiling and upper parts of the walls when performing repairs, remove dust from a high cabinet, wash the outside and inside of the cottage windows, and trim trees.
Despite the low cost, many people prefer to make the design themselves. The article will tell you their types and features, as well as how to assemble a stepladder from wood with your own hands.
Stepladders are a type of structure that has the outline of the letters “L” or “A”. Such options in working condition are a stable isosceles triangle, with the sides of a regular staircase and a supporting frame.
The rubberized tips that fit on the legs give the structure greater stability. Alternative option models are stairs located on both sides.
Design Features:
- The presence of an upper platform or safety tape in the center, which ensures the stability of the structure;
- The legs can be equipped with a traverse, which is a wide bar that fixes them in pairs in one plane;
- Maximum length wooden stepladder- 5 meters;
- Wood reacts to temperature changes;
The main types of structures are presented in the table:
| Type of stepladder | Peculiarities |
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A mini-option, otherwise called a stool or stepladder-chair. Design Features:
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This is a ladder with a platform for placing a person and a support block fixed on top of it. According to GOST, if the height of the working platform is more than 1.3 m from the ground surface, it must be equipped with fences - a side or railings. |
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Design Features:
The cost of such stepladders is low and their production requires less material. |
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The double-sided version also has steps on the opposite side, which provides several advantages:
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The design includes two support beams or rails and steps. Models are made of great height and are equipped with handrails or platforms. Can be foldable. Product Features:
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The product contains at least one additional block, fully or partially retractable, depending on the model. Peculiarities:
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This is a universal type that adapts to specific working conditions. Can be used as split structures. A popular type of model is a transforming stepladder, which is also used as a platform. In this case, assembly and changing the shape are carried out after releasing the latches, which are buttons or pawls next to the hinges. |
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The mobile view resembles a one-sided split design. Their purpose is identical. These ladders have small wheels on the support side. Peculiarities:
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Options for choosing a stepladder
For domestic purposes, in your home, most often, a stable stepladder, which can be two-section or universal, is sufficient. When choosing, you should take into account the purpose of use and the material for making stairs.
Wooden stepladders are distinguished by their naturalness and lightness, but they require certain conditions when used and stored in rooms where there will be moderate humidity and not too large temperature changes.
When purchasing a ladder, you should pay attention to:
- On its load capacity, which is indicated on the marking;
Advice: When using the device, for safety reasons, do not exceed maximum load offered by the manufacturer.
- Per height parameter. It must be borne in mind that manufacturers often indicate 120 cm more. To correctly determine the size of the product, you need to check the height to the top step;
- For cost, which depends on the material used to manufacture the product, the manufacturer’s company, size, functionality and the availability of additional equipment.
Materials for making stepladders
For long-term use with maximum convenience, a wooden staircase must not only be assembled with high quality, but also processed paint and varnish materials and anti-corrosion compounds, in the presence of metal parts.
Tip: When using metal elements, preference should be given to parts made of stainless steel.
Before you make a wooden stepladder with your own hands, 2.4 meters high, you need to purchase the following materials:
- The beams have a cross-section of 60x60 mm, a total length of 14 meters. This is the main load-bearing part of the future stepladder; its choice must be made as carefully as possible. Only first-class wood from oak, ash, hornbeam, cedar, and pine is suitable for this. The materials should not have knots, chips, rot, or other defects that impair the quality of the timber, and therefore reduce the safety of the product during operation.
- Beam 25x25 mm, for making a platform intended for placing tools when performing work, and steps. There are no special requirements for the material, the main thing is that it holds firmly on the stepladder and prevents slipping.
- Board 25x25 mm, minimum 2 meters. It is used to make the platform and provide strength for the rear pillars.
- There are 2 long bolts, 16 mm in diameter, they will serve as axes for installing the ladder into the working position.
- M16 nuts – 4 pieces.
- Nails 90 mm long, approximately 40 pieces, with a minimum diameter of 5 mm.
- Belts with carabiners, 1.5 meters long - 2 pieces, to ensure the safety of work and prevent the stepladder from diverging.
- Paints and varnishes. You should purchase waterproof paint and apply it to a pre-primed surface.
Advice: You should not skimp on materials - your safety, the durability of the product and the ease of use of the stepladder depend on the strength of the structure.
Manufacturing of structural elements
To quickly and correctly make a staircase with your own hands, you need to develop a drawing or at least a sketch of it.
To work you will need:
- Wood saw;
- Meter ruler or tape measure;
- Square;
- Electric drill;
- Locksmith's hammer.
A wooden stepladder is made with your own hands in the following sequence:
- Four elements for the bowstring are cut from the timber. Two - to support the steps, two - for the supporting part of the stepladder;
- Grooves are made on two bowstrings, the depth of which is 2 cm and the height of 2.5 cm across the entire width of the beam. The center of the first upper groove should be located from the top of the bowstring at a distance of 12.5 cm. The rest are cut in increments of 290 mm;
- Three grooves of the same dimensions are made in the support posts for jumpers. One is placed at the height of the first step of the stepladder, the second at the level of the top, and one in the center;
- The edges of the racks located on top are rounded, sharp corners are removed;
- The lower ends are cut at an angle so that the wooden stepladder is as stable as possible, and are covered with rubber;
- The steps are made according to the drawing. In each of them, spikes are made on both sides, with a diameter of 25 mm and a length of 20 mm.
Assembling the stairs
Instructions for assembling a stepladder:
- Steps are inserted into the grooves of the racks. To do this, it is better to first lubricate the tenons with wood glue;
Advice: The grooves in the bowstrings should be made so that the tenons of the steps fit into them very tightly, which will prevent the structure from becoming loose.
- The spikes of the steps are hammered into the grooves of the racks. After installing all the steps, they are secured at the end of the string with nails;
- When assembling a stepladder from boards instead of bars, the steps are slightly different. In this case, grooves are not made due to the small thickness of the board. The steps are attached to steel corners with wide shelves screwed to bowstrings;
- To increase reliability and durability, the bowstrings of the working part are additionally fastened with pins. In this case, holes are drilled under the grooves. After installing the steps, studs are inserted into the holes and tightened with bolts on both sides;
- After assembling the supporting and working parts, they are connected to each other by hinges with hinges or brackets;
- Lastly, at the bottom of the stepladder, a fixing chain is attached, which will prevent the supporting and working parts from moving too far apart.
To better imagine how wooden stepladders are assembled, you should carefully watch the video in this article.
Making a simple stepladder
Simple wooden stairs stepladders are made from the following materials:
- Beam with a section of 60×40 mm for support posts - 4 pieces, 2 m long;
- For steps and crossbars, the following lengths of bars must be prepared:
- 59 cm - 2 pcs.;
- 54.5 cm;
- 50 cm;
- 45.5 cm;
- 41 cm - 3 pcs.;
- For the sole of the stepladder - a board or rubber tips, for the bottom of the racks.
- The same markings are applied to the support posts for attaching the steps, with a step between steps of 40 cm. In this case, the lowest one is no less than 100 mm from the edge of the post;
- According to the markings, grooves are made 15 mm deep;
- To assemble the main part, the support posts are placed with the grooves up and aligned so that a distance of 40 cm is maintained between the upper ends and 60 cm between the lower ends;
- The steps are inserted into grooves and secured with nails or self-tapping screws;
- An additional crossbar is attached to the top of the reverse side;
- There are no steps on the support, so the supports for it are connected by crossbars only at the bottom and at the top;
- For structural rigidity, a jib is installed;
- Both parts are connected to each other. The support is installed in such a way that its “horns” are between the last step and the additional crossbar installed on the main part. In this case, fastening at the top is not required, and the lower ends are moved back to the required distance, which will allow you to choose the most stable position.
Finishing the structure
Wooden stairs and stepladders must be additionally processed.
Tip: Everyone wooden parts structures must be polished and treated with special compounds.
The order of processing of products is as follows:
- All parts in contact with human hands are sanded with sandpaper. This is necessary to eliminate the possibility of getting a splinter when using a stepladder;
- Surfaces affected by mold are cleaned. You can simplify the grinding process by using a special tool;
- To improve the resistance of the stepladder to impact external environment, all its elements are impregnated with a special composition - stain. This product is an antiseptic that prevents wood from rotting and mold. Staining of structural parts is carried out before assembly. This will increase its service life;
- After assembling the product, it is better to soak it in drying oil and then coat it with paint or varnish. The finished wooden stepladder is shown in the photo.
What and how to make a wooden stepladder with your own hands is up to everyone to decide for themselves. But you should always remember that this device should not only be beautiful, but most importantly, durable and safe when performing work.
A stepladder is a very useful device for household needs. Without it, it is difficult to finish the ceiling and upper parts of the walls when performing repairs, remove dust from a high cabinet, wash the outside and inside of the cottage windows, and trim trees.
Despite the low cost, many people prefer to make the design themselves. The article will tell you their types and features, as well as how to assemble a stepladder from wood with your own hands.
Stepladders are a type of structure that has the outline of the letters “L” or “A”. Such options in working condition are a stable isosceles triangle, with the sides of a regular staircase and a supporting frame.
The rubberized tips that fit on the legs give the structure greater stability. An alternative to the model are stairs located on both sides.
Design Features:
- The presence of an upper platform or safety tape in the center, which ensures the stability of the structure;
- The legs can be equipped with a traverse, which is a wide bar that fixes them in pairs in one plane;
- The longest length of a wooden stepladder is 5 meters;
- Wood reacts to temperature changes;
The main types of structures are presented in the table:
| Type of stepladder | Peculiarities |
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A mini-option, otherwise called a stool or stepladder-chair. Design Features:
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This is a ladder with a platform for placing a person and a support block fixed on top of it. According to GOST, if the height of the working platform is more than 1.3 m from the ground surface, it must be equipped with fences - a side or railings. |
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Design Features:
The cost of such stepladders is low and their production requires less material. |
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The double-sided version also has steps on the opposite side, which provides several advantages:
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The design includes two support beams or rails and steps. Models are made of great height and are equipped with handrails or platforms. Can be foldable. Product Features:
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The product contains at least one additional block, fully or partially retractable, depending on the model. Peculiarities:
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This is a universal type that adapts to specific working conditions. Can be used as split structures. A popular type of model is a transforming stepladder, which is also used as a platform. In this case, assembly and changing the shape are carried out after releasing the latches, which are buttons or pawls next to the hinges. |
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The mobile view resembles a one-sided split design. Their purpose is identical. These ladders have small wheels on the support side. Peculiarities:
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Options for choosing a stepladder
For domestic purposes, in your home, most often, a stable stepladder, which can be two-section or universal, is sufficient. When choosing, you should take into account the purpose of use and the material for making stairs.
Wooden stepladders are distinguished by their naturalness and lightness, but they require certain conditions when used and stored in rooms where there will be moderate humidity and not too large temperature changes.
When purchasing a ladder, you should pay attention to:
- On its load capacity, which is indicated on the marking;
Tip: When using the device, for safety reasons, you should not exceed the maximum load suggested by the manufacturer.
- Per height parameter. It must be borne in mind that manufacturers often indicate 120 cm more. To correctly determine the size of the product, you need to check the height to the top step;
- For cost, which depends on the material used to manufacture the product, the manufacturer’s company, size, functionality and the availability of additional equipment.
Materials for making stepladders
For long-term use with maximum convenience, a wooden staircase must not only be assembled with high quality, but also treated with paints and varnishes and anti-corrosion compounds, in the presence of metal parts.
Tip: When using metal elements, preference should be given to parts made of stainless steel.
Before you make a wooden stepladder with your own hands, 2.4 meters high, you need to purchase the following materials:
- The beams have a cross-section of 60x60 mm, a total length of 14 meters. This is the main load-bearing part of the future stepladder; its choice must be made as carefully as possible. Only first-class wood from oak, ash, hornbeam, cedar, and pine is suitable for this. The materials should not have knots, chips, rot, or other defects that impair the quality of the timber, and therefore reduce the safety of the product during operation.
- Beam 25x25 mm, for making a platform intended for placing tools when performing work, and steps. There are no special requirements for the material, the main thing is that it holds firmly on the stepladder and prevents slipping.
- Board 25x25 mm, minimum 2 meters. It is used to make the platform and provide strength for the rear pillars.
- There are 2 long bolts, 16 mm in diameter, they will serve as axes for installing the ladder into the working position.
- M16 nuts – 4 pieces.
- Nails 90 mm long, approximately 40 pieces, with a minimum diameter of 5 mm.
- Belts with carabiners, 1.5 meters long - 2 pieces, to ensure the safety of work and prevent the stepladder from diverging.
- Paints and varnishes. You should purchase waterproof paint and apply it to a pre-primed surface.
Advice: You should not skimp on materials - your safety, the durability of the product and the ease of use of the stepladder depend on the strength of the structure.
Manufacturing of structural elements
To quickly and correctly make a staircase with your own hands, you need to develop a drawing or at least a sketch of it.
To work you will need:
- Wood saw;
- Meter ruler or tape measure;
- Square;
- Electric drill;
- Locksmith's hammer.
A wooden stepladder is made with your own hands in the following sequence:
- Four elements for the bowstring are cut from the timber. Two - to support the steps, two - for the supporting part of the stepladder;
- Grooves are made on two bowstrings, the depth of which is 2 cm and the height of 2.5 cm across the entire width of the beam. The center of the first upper groove should be located from the top of the bowstring at a distance of 12.5 cm. The rest are cut in increments of 290 mm;
- Three grooves of the same dimensions are made in the support posts for jumpers. One is placed at the height of the first step of the stepladder, the second at the level of the top, and one in the center;
- The edges of the racks located on top are rounded, sharp corners are removed;
- The lower ends are cut at an angle so that the wooden stepladder is as stable as possible, and are covered with rubber;
- The steps are made according to the drawing. In each of them, spikes are made on both sides, with a diameter of 25 mm and a length of 20 mm.
Assembling the stairs
Instructions for assembling a stepladder:
- Steps are inserted into the grooves of the racks. To do this, it is better to first lubricate the tenons with wood glue;
Advice: The grooves in the bowstrings should be made so that the tenons of the steps fit into them very tightly, which will prevent the structure from becoming loose.
- The spikes of the steps are hammered into the grooves of the racks. After installing all the steps, they are secured at the end of the string with nails;
- When assembling a stepladder from boards instead of bars, the steps are slightly different. In this case, grooves are not made due to the small thickness of the board. The steps are attached to steel corners with wide shelves screwed to bowstrings;
- To increase reliability and durability, the bowstrings of the working part are additionally fastened with pins. In this case, holes are drilled under the grooves. After installing the steps, studs are inserted into the holes and tightened with bolts on both sides;
- After assembling the supporting and working parts, they are connected to each other by hinges with hinges or brackets;
- Lastly, at the bottom of the stepladder, a fixing chain is attached, which will prevent the supporting and working parts from moving too far apart.
To better imagine how wooden stepladders are assembled, you should carefully watch the video in this article.
Making a simple stepladder
Simple wooden stepladders are made from the following materials:
- Beam with a section of 60×40 mm for support posts - 4 pieces, 2 m long;
- For steps and crossbars, the following lengths of bars must be prepared:
- 59 cm - 2 pcs.;
- 54.5 cm;
- 50 cm;
- 45.5 cm;
- 41 cm - 3 pcs.;
- For the sole of the stepladder - a board or rubber tips, for the bottom of the racks.
- The same markings are applied to the support posts for attaching the steps, with a step between steps of 40 cm. In this case, the lowest one is no less than 100 mm from the edge of the post;
- According to the markings, grooves are made 15 mm deep;
- To assemble the main part, the support posts are placed with the grooves up and aligned so that a distance of 40 cm is maintained between the upper ends and 60 cm between the lower ends;
- The steps are inserted into grooves and secured with nails or self-tapping screws;
- An additional crossbar is attached to the top of the reverse side;
- There are no steps on the support, so the supports for it are connected by crossbars only at the bottom and at the top;
- For structural rigidity, a jib is installed;
- Both parts are connected to each other. The support is installed in such a way that its “horns” are between the last step and the additional crossbar installed on the main part. In this case, fastening at the top is not required, and the lower ends are moved back to the required distance, which will allow you to choose the most stable position.
Finishing the structure
Wooden stairs and stepladders must be additionally processed.
Advice: All wooden parts of structures must be sanded and treated with special compounds.
The order of processing of products is as follows:
- All parts in contact with human hands are sanded with sandpaper. This is necessary to eliminate the possibility of getting a splinter when using a stepladder;
- Surfaces affected by mold are cleaned. You can simplify the grinding process by using a special tool;
- To improve the resistance of the stepladder to the external environment, all its elements are impregnated with a special composition - stain. This product is an antiseptic that prevents wood from rotting and mold. Staining of structural parts is carried out before assembly. This will increase its service life;
- After assembling the product, it is better to soak it in drying oil and then coat it with paint or varnish. The finished wooden stepladder is shown in the photo.
What and how to make a wooden stepladder with your own hands is up to everyone to decide for themselves. But you should always remember that this device should not only be beautiful, but most importantly, durable and safe when performing work.