How many compost heaps should be on the site. How to make a compost pit with your own hands

compost pit This is a place for the disposal of organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, garden debris decomposes in it, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilizer. In the article, we will consider options for making a compost pit with our own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of the simplest heaps of garbage, are present on every personal plot. But the right designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from auxiliary building materials available in the country.

Compost pit principles

The main function of the compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, earthworms, the number of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, a fairly high temperature and humidity must be maintained inside the compost heap with a regular supply of oxygen.

To do this, the compost tank must have the following design features:

Make compost boxes from any available materials. These can be boards, slate trims, corrugated board, metal construction mesh, and even car tires. More capital structures are built of brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable utilizers in metal or plastic barrels.

The main sanitary requirement for the construction of a compost pit is its distance of 20 meters from water bodies and sources of drinking water. Rain streams should not drain from the compost heap in the direction of wells, wells, pools.

Choosing a site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of groundwater contamination, a threat to human and animal health. Do not place a compost pit in wetlands or in places with stagnant water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully colored shields, fenced with loach plantings and perennial ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

In a garden or backyard, you can use the simplest tools to make a quality structure and turn a pile of garden debris and decomposable household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are a wide variety of types of compost heaps, from earthen ditches to real concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost pit:

1. In the ground, a site is selected away from residential buildings.
2. On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, the top layer of turf and soil is removed.
3. The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
4. The bottom is covered with a sand cushion to drain excess water.

The first layer performs the function of drainage and promotes aeration of the pile and consists of cut branches.

They are laid in layers:

• cut grass;
• dry foliage;
• sawdust;
• household food waste;
• manure;
• weedy herbs.

Layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil, spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to grind all the ingredients before laying, simply chopping with a shovel.

The total height of the pile should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with a covering material or a slate shield. In hot weather, a pile is watered with ordinary water.

Under natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons. This is the easiest and most economical way to get compost.

Use EM drugs. A temperature of +4°C inside the compost heap is enough for microorganisms to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from boards

For ease of use and speed up the recycling process, the compost bin is made from boards. The optimal size of the compost box is 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

Lay garbage in such a container through the top according to the general principle, starting with the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost already from below.

Photo: drawing of a compost box, composter diagram

Variants of compost pits made from boards

Slate is durable and is perfect for the walls of the compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a composter from slate:

1. Marking is done at the location of the compost heap and deepen cut-to-size sheets. They can be fixed with an external, wooden or iron crate.
2. In another embodiment, metal pipes are buried in the ground. A frame of bars is attached to them. Outside, it is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. A cover for the pit is made from plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the pit with a film or garden covering material.

Compost pit from corrugated board

When making a compost bin from corrugated board, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

1. At the chosen place, a base is constructed from a metal or wooden block.
2. The dimensions of the pit are chosen according to the length of the sheets, which allows you to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
3. The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
4. Outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
5. It should be borne in mind that the metal surface becomes very hot during hot summer periods.
6. From above they make a shelter for their plywood or boards. It is desirable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Metal mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from a metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

To simplify, you can put a large plastic bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste according to the principle of a compost pit. And also compost can be made in special bags that are sold at garden centers.

Concrete compost pit

A concrete compost pit creates many benefits:

• Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
• Such a pit is durable and reliable, not affected by adverse environmental conditions.

It is desirable to make it large, into two or even three compartments. Compost of different seasons will ripen in the first and second blocks. The third store bags of finished compost.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

When operating a concrete pit, it must be taken into account that the composting process is slowed down. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special products to it.

Other material options for the compost pit

Compost pit from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron barrels are great for composting:

1. We cut down both bottoms with a chisel and put them near the track.
2. We put weeds, mowed grass, kitchen waste in layers in a barrel.
3. To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black, pour the compost with a solution of ammonium nitrate (a matchbox on a bucket of water).
4. We get the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

1. Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
2. Then we put them on the priest and connect them with wire or rope. Cover with a lid on top.
3. The advantages of this design are the easy accessibility of the contents of the barrel for worms and bacteria from below.
4. To get ready-made compost, you only need to untie the rope, and you will receive two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

The ideal material for a compost bin is plastic. In conventional compost heaps, compost takes two years to mature. In plastic barrels with a capacity of 150-200 liters, liquid compost can be prepared in two weeks.

For this:

1. We fill the barrel with cut grass or weeds to half, and fill it with water to the top.
2. After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
3. After using the solution, you can again add water to the barrel and let it brew for one week.
4. Having spent the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is folded into a compost heap.

Brick compost pit

A brick compost pit is made in three walls. It can be done with or without cement mortar. On a cement mortar, a compost pit is made no more than 1 meter high. Between the bricks you need to leave gaps for ventilation.

A brick compost pit without a cement binder is convenient in that it can be moved to another location if necessary.

In the compost pit, you need to provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from available material. The front wall is made temporary so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

Garden debris can be successfully stored in the inner cavity of the concrete ring and compost can be obtained as a result. For comfort the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

The disadvantages of the design include the absence of an underestimated front wall. To unload the finished compost, you need to climb inside. Otherwise, very durable compost chambers are obtained from such reinforced concrete products.

Compost pit according to Finnish technology

If there is no desire to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter using Finnish technology. It is modern with two containers, with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.

When the container is full, it is pulled out and another is inserted. Due to the high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with earth or sand and fertilized with plants. The empty container is washed and returned to its place.

Do not confuse compost and cesspool. Organic matter from the garden plot is stored in containers for making compost. The remains of protein food should be disposed of in a cesspool.

What can and cannot be put in a compost pit?

Thanks to composting, the amount of waste in landfills is reduced, and our vegetable gardens and orchards receive additional fertilizer.

In the compost pit, first of all, organic garden waste is laid, in the form of:

• branches;
• dry foliage;
• cut grass;
• weeds;
• straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

• food leftovers from vegetarian food;
• egg shell;
• onion peel.

You can layer the compost with manure and chicken manure.

The prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are:

• construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
• remnants of printed products;
• plastic.

Do not compost leftover protein and oily foods, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues, weeds with matured seeds and with roots that can take root well, such as:

• thistle;
• wheatgrass;
• loach.

Drought-tolerant plants should be dried before being placed in the compost pile so that they lose their ability to root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it slowly decomposes and takes up nitrogen. And also do not use feces of domestic animals and humans when composting.

Preparations for the compost pit

The main task of preparations containing biological activators is to accelerate the decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job with the processing of organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

1. Compost preparation can be significantly accelerated by using Baikal EM. This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
2. The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They are engaged in the processing of organic matter into humus, and also prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
3. The bioactivator has similar properties. The Green-Master bioactivator package must be diluted in 20 liters of warm water, let it brew for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks, you need to turn a bunch of pitchforks. For the preparation of compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is sufficient.
4. Good results are obtained by the drug "Compost Boost" for composting.
5. Manufacturer Lucky summer resident produces "Biocompostin"- compost preparation. Saneks plus releases the EcoCompost product.
6. Manufacturer Dezon Bio K produces several types of drugs:"Green Universal", "Compost of one season", "Compost for the next agricultural season", "Bioactivator for compost".

By using preparations, microbiological processes can be significantly accelerated and compost can be obtained in 2-3 months.

Preparations-bioactivators for compost

Rules for the operation of a compost pit

After the construction of the compost box and its filling, it remains occasionally to look inside and, depending on the changes taking place, correct the decomposition process.

Tips for using the composter:

1. In dry periods, it is necessary to water the compost with plain water, preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of some types of beneficial bacteria.
2. At least once every two weeks, you should loosen the compost heap., thereby providing an influx of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
3. Add "Effective Microorganisms" to your compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
4. To speed up the process, you can add a ready-made compost substrate, which contains a full range of microbiological activators.
5. If the pit design does not have a top cover, then simply cover the top with a black garden cover, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the structure.

Summarizing

Creating a compost pit does not require serious material investments. You can make it with your own hands from improvised materials, which are always enough in any personal plot.

Having spent a little time on making a compost pit, in the future you will not have to solve the problems of disposing of garden and household waste.

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Even an inexperienced gardener knows the benefits of compost, which is used to nourish the soil. It is able not only to fertilize the soil, but also to improve its friability and structure. Since the main components of compost are waste, nutrient fertilizer is obtained from almost nothing / In terms of costs, it is the most affordable. However, it is not enough just to dump plant residues in one heap. To obtain valuable material, compost in the country with your own hands must be done correctly.

What is a compost heap made of?

When forming a compost pit in the country with your own hands, you need to know that you can’t throw everything into it. The main products for composting are:

• weeds;
• slightly crushed roots, branches and bark of trees;
• leaves;
• straw, cut grass, hay;
• raw berries, fruits, vegetables and cleaning from them;
• coffee, cereals, tea;
• needles;
• wood ash;
• second year herbivore dung;
• unpainted wood waste;
• shredded paper bags, cardboard, napkins.

Do not add to the compost heap:

To make compost with your own hands correctly, you should add a brown mass with poor fiber and green, nitrogen-rich waste , at a ratio of 5:1. This will speed up the development of bacteria and the maturation of the compost. Waste will also quickly rot if it is crushed beforehand.

How to make a compost heap with your own hands? There is nothing difficult in this. You can understand that the balance is maintained and the compost is correct by its condition. If it's moist, steamy, warm, and smells green, it's in the right mix of ingredients. If the compost heap has no visible fumes, it needs more green matter. In the presence of an unpleasant odor, brown components are added.

A proper compost heap consists of alternating layers of brown and green filling, as well as coarser and finer fraction components. The finally formed compost with your own hands is covered from above with a five-centimeter layer of earth and a perforated film or old straw.

How to make compost in the country on your own?

First of all, for the compost pit, you should choose a suitable place. It should be hidden from prying eyes and protected from the scorching sun and winds. All leftovers and waste are placed in special compost bins, which are best made from a wooden frame.

Before laying organic matter digs compost pit 20 cm deep, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of peat or a film. This will retain moisture and nutrients.

Compost heap care

The quality of the compost and the period of its formation depends on the proper care of it:

1. Humidity is of great importance, so a dry heap is moistened. To do this, it is carefully watered from a watering can, but so that it is exactly wet, not wet. Too much humidity impairs the functioning of bacteria;
2. Every month the compost must be carefully turned. This will enrich the organic matter with oxygen, make it loose and contribute not to rotting, but to burning out the waste. In extreme cases, the pile can not be dug up, but pierced with a pitchfork;
3. In order for the compost to ripen faster, more nitrogen is added to it, which is contained in slurry and green parts of the plant.

Usually organic residues are completely overheat in a year and a half. The fact that the compost is ready can be recognized by smell and visually. You should get a dark brown crumbly mass with the smell of forest land.

How to make a compost bin with your own hands?

A composter in the country or in the garden can be made in the form of a 2 or 3 section box. It is recommended to use a version of the composter with three sections, each of which will be designed for its own purposes:

1. for laying waste;
2. for compost ripening;
3. for finished fertilizer.

compost bin can be fixed or mobile(on wheels). For quick maturation and obtaining high-quality humus, the height of the box should be at least 1 meter, and each of its sections should be about a meter and a half in size.

Before starting work, all wooden parts are treated with a special compound that will protect the structure from moisture and insects.

DIY compost bin making steps:

1. 8 wooden blocks are buried in the ground;
2. partitions are equipped, for which boards are attached to the bars at a certain distance from each other;
3. two compartments in the front are sheathed only to the middle. Doors will be installed on top. Only one board from below is nailed to the remaining compartment;
4. the end parts and the back wall are sheathed;
5. a large door is attached to the front wall of one compartment, and small doors to the other two;
6. the finished wooden structure is covered with paint twice;
7. latches and handles are attached to the drawer.

Once at the bottom of the compost bin drainage will be installed(dry tree branches, etc.), waste can be placed in it.

How to make a compost pit in the country?

A compost pit will not overshadow the appearance of the site, but the waste in it will rot for a long time. Since fertilizer needs oxygen to ripen, the compost pit needs to be properly equipped.

How to make a DIY compost pit with wood trim?

This option involves making a wooden box and placing it in a pit.

Production order:

After one half of the compost pit is full, the oxygenation material is moved to the other half.

Actively participate in the formation of humus earthworms. In order for them to get into the composter, the bottom and sides of the structure are not covered with anything.

Slate compost pit

A strong and reliable construction can be obtained if it is built from slate. It is made in several stages:

1. a site is selected and the dimensions of the pit are determined;
2. a small depression is dug, at the corners of which supports are dug in. You can use pipes or boards;
3. slate sheets are installed along the edges of the pit;
4. the space is divided into two or three parts with the help of slate leaves.

concrete compost pit

The walls of the structure can be concreted, as a result of which such a pit will last for decades. For its manufacture you will need:

In the manufacture of a composter for a summer residence or garden barrels can be used. These can be concrete rings or wooden products that are buried in the ground. The bottom of the structure is covered with drainage, and a cover with holes is installed on top to provide ventilation.

Compost pit according to Finnish technology

The main requirement for the Finnish design is the dimensions. The height and sides of the box should be one meter. If the structure is smaller, the contents in it will quickly dry out and turn into dust. In a large structure, organics will burn out from high temperatures.

Materials for manufacturing

It is better to build a compost pit from wood. Not a very good option would be slate. In the construction made from it, waste will turn into fertilizer for a long time.

A cheap and convenient pit will be made from wooden pallets. They can be found or purchased cheaply.

Prepared wooden elements are treated with an antiseptic that can protect them from the ground. After such processing, the structure will last for several years and no repairs will be needed.

To make the design look decent, you need to buy paint.

Making a compost pit:

In one meter-by-meter box, compost will be prepared, which is enough to fertilize the earth on a plot of 5-7 acres.

Compost pit - dry closet

A compost bin using Finnish technology can be purchased at the store. This is a dry closet that is able to turn waste into compost. It consists of two containers, each of which has a volume of 80 liters.

Having visited the toilet, you will need to fill the container with a special mixture of sawdust and peat, and then turn the handle. It is located on the body and is designed to evenly distribute the contents of the container.

With this composter, you can also dispose of food by placing them in a container for this and sprinkling with a dry mixture.

As soon as the first container is full, it moves away, and a second container is installed in its place. In the first container, the compost is ready for use. However, in such a dry closet it turns out to be too concentrated, so it should be diluted with earth, sand or peat.

Often summer residents come across a plot with infertile soil on which plants grow poorly. Of course, you can bring black soil, but it is quite expensive. Abundant use of chemistry is also undesirable, because the harvested crop will be used by family members. The only way left is to make healthy compost. These are organic fertilizers obtained in the process of decomposition of natural waste due to the vital activity of microorganisms.

Choosing a place for a pile

Before dumping organic waste into a huge pile, it is important to decide on a place. Usually, a site is allocated at the end of the garden or behind outbuildings so that it does not spoil the overall view. It is desirable that the site is not blown by the winds and is located in the shade. You can decorate a bunch of climbing ornamental plants.

It is also necessary to find out the direction of rain flows during heavy rainfall. It is desirable that they do not flow down to the source of drinking water, and the products obtained in the process of decay do not spoil it.

Board compost bin

A rational option for storing organic fertilizers is a wooden box with three special sections: for waste, saturation of top dressing with oxygen and ready-made humus.

Making containers from boards with your own hands takes place in 5 stages:

1. 1. Wooden bars are dug into the ground in the amount of 8 pieces. To protect the wood, parts that are in the ground are smeared with tar or another moisture-repellent agent. If the box is placed along the fence, some of the pegs can be tied to it so as not to dig additional holes.
2. 2. The dug-in bars are connected with wooden boards to form partitions. It is important to leave gaps between adjacent planks to improve air exchange. In front of sections 1 and 2, the boards are fixed to the middle. In the future, doors will be made at this place. In the last compartment with a large door, only one lower bar is nailed.
3. 3. The ends, partitions and the back wall are reinforced with additional crossbars. Doors are mounted that simultaneously act as a cover in the first two sections. In the last compartment, 1 large door is installed.
4. 4. For protection, all sections of the box are covered with two layers of paint. The choice of the color of the paintwork is a purely individual matter, but it is better that it fits into the overall landscape design.
5. 5. Fittings are installed: handles, latches. The box is ready to use.

Board compost bin

A place for storing organic fertilizers is mounted for a long time. Experienced summer residents recommend concreted the bottom of the box and put drainage. You can use plastic shields or slate.

Pallet manure box

Putting organic waste in one pile is the first step in getting fertilizer. The convenience and neat appearance of compost requires a wooden fence. The use of such material will help it to be enriched with oxygen. The device of the pallet box is simple. Make it easy by following the following plan:

1. 1. To obtain a single crate, the pallets are disassembled.
2. 2. Using a chisel and a hammer, remove excess elements.
3. 3. The remains of protruding nails are cut off with an electric grinder.
4. 4. One crate is removed from the bottom, where there will be a hole for extracting the finished compost.
5. 5. For the stability of the structure, the partitions are set according to the level.
6. 6. Wood screws are used to fix the walls.

Pallet manure box

By properly organizing the accumulation of organic waste, it is possible to provide a summer cottage with high-quality fertilizer in six months. Under normal conditions, the maturation of compost lasts 1-2 years.

Compost heap ingredients

High-quality fertilizers are obtained if the heap is formed by a variety of organic waste. So, humus is enriched with minerals. It is important to maintain the correct content of nitrogen and carbon. The main component of top dressing is carbon, which is contained in large quantities in the stems of green plants. Microorganisms feed on nitrogen found in bone meal, chicken manure, weeds, legumes and vegetable stalks growing in the garden.

To activate a chemical reaction in humus, the amount of nitrogen in relation to carbon is 1 to 10. The excess of substances is excreted in the process of formation of carbon dioxide and ammonia. You can get high-quality fertilizer by saturating it with minerals. To do this, just add superphosphate.

Components undesirable for compost

Do not add diseased greenery and weeds with seeds to the container. Remember, compost is not a garbage dump. It is strictly forbidden to use as organic waste:

• poorly crushed plants;
• fruit pits;
• litter of domestic dogs and cats;
• spoiled food.

Some ingredients speed up the chemical reaction in the compost heap, forming humus. Others, on the contrary, slow down the processes, increasing the formation of top dressing.

Rules for the preparation of organic fertilizers

The preparation of high-quality organic fertilizers in the shortest possible time implies compliance with certain rules. Experienced gardeners recommend:

1. 1. Mix different components, stacking them in layers. At the bottom of the box, lay out 30 cm of soil, 10 cm of dry and high-quality chopped grass, covering everything with leaves and weeds, 25 cm each.
2. 2. Regularly add to the compost waste food products that do not contain bones and adipose tissue.
3. 3. Moisten all layers with water when laying.
4. 4. Apply bone meal and mineral-based fertilizer at regular intervals.
5. 5. Turn the pile regularly, maintaining sufficient moisture. For work it is better to use garden forks.

You can determine the readiness of the fertilizer by color and smell. Ripe compost is crumbly, with a pleasant aroma of forest soil and a dark brown hue.

Fallen leaf litter

Leaves fallen in autumn in the garden are the best component for nutrient fertilizer. At the moment of fall, the foliage loses the main part of the minerals. Lignin and hemicellulose remain in the tissues - poorly soluble substances. These are valuable elements of high-quality humus, although their decay period lasts more than a year.

Equipping a bunch of fallen leaves in the garden, you should take into account the high concentration of tannin. This is a component with disinfecting properties that slows down the process of compost formation. The maximum content of tannin was found in beech, oak and chestnut leaves. Therefore, they are rarely used in the compost heap as the main ingredient. Experienced gardeners recommend using the leaves of fruit trees.

Heap Care Features

To speed up the process of decay after compost formation, it is important to follow the simplest rules of care. In order for fertilizers to be ready for use in a year, it is necessary:

1. 1. Loosen the compost at least once a month. It is advisable to mix all the ingredients to the very bottom. This enriches the humus with oxygen, allowing it to burn out efficiently. If you can’t turn the whole pile over, at least pierce it with a garden pitchfork from different sides. The main thing is that the fertilizer does not rot.
2. 2. Maintain optimal moisture content of organic waste. If the compost is dry, it is necessary to moisten it abundantly. But don't make a swamp. Excess moisture pushes air out, slowing down the work of microorganisms important for composting. Gently water the compost heap with water from a watering can, not from a garden hose. You can protect the fertilizer during heavy rains by covering it with plastic wrap.
3. 3. To speed up the process of burning out the humus, add nitrogen in large quantities, contained in the green stems of plants and in manure. Additionally, put superphosphate, which enriches the mixture with minerals.

Having created a compost box at the dacha on their own, summer residents will provide high-quality soil fertilizer for many years. At the same time, they will get rid of organic waste that accumulates in the process of human life. In turn, fertile land will allow you to get rich harvests in the garden and in the garden at no additional cost.

Stocking up on enough organic fertilizer for your garden is not a problem for those experienced summer residents who know how to make compost with their own hands from what, as they say, "at hand". By the way, self-preparation of compost, in addition to the quality of the resulting useful fertilizer, has another definite plus. This method helps to get rid of plant and food residues on the farm. And with maximum benefit and absolutely waste-free.

Many gardeners think that it does not matter at all from what and how to make compost. But this is a wrong opinion. The ingredients put into the compost bin directly determine how useful (!) And nutritious the fertilizer you receive will be, and whether it will harm your plants.

DIY compost: how to make and what you need to know

Proper compost is a wonderful organic fertilizer obtained by long-term decay of various plant and household residues. All this decay occurs when exposed to bacteria. But don't forget that the composting method isn't just randomly dumping everything you want to get rid of. Therefore, it is very erroneous to call a mountain of garbage in the country, consisting of potato tops, dry tree branches or rhizomes from cabbage heads, proud of the word compost. And also, other reluctantly decaying or frankly contagious garbage.

On a note! If you want to make a really useful fertilizer, then it will be useful to find out if this or that material can be disposed of in compost. By the way, especially in autumn, many are interested in whether it is possible to put fallen leaves in a compost heap.

What is compost made of

The compost mixture consists of two types of components responsible for different processes during processing:

Nitrogen components:

• Mowed plant mass and carrion.
• Food waste of plant origin.
• Dung or droppings.
• Weeds without seeds.

They are responsible for the carbon-oxygen balance necessary for the maturation of grass compost.

Carbon components:

• Chips and shredded wood, including bark.
• Pruning branches and thin trunks.
• Straw and dry leaves.
• Paper and cardboard remnants.

Attention! They should be laid in a compost heap in layers, alternating "green" wet with dry "brown" waste. If the proportions (1:1) are observed, the heat released by nitrogenous products stimulates the processes of decay of the compost mixture.

What not to put in compost

Of course, any summer resident wants to cleanly get rid of weed heaps after weeding or from the tops that appear en masse in the garden in the second half of summer, after the start of harvesting. Only here is the question ... Is it possible to put everything in compost without exception? Or is there still some residue that is harmful to composting?

It turns out that even here there are certain limitations, and each of them has a perfectly reasonable explanation. So, in the correct compost it is strongly not recommended to dispose of:

• Large fragments of wood, pruning of evergreen shrubs, fallen leaves in season. Rotting stretches for a long time, slowing down the entire cycle of maturation of compost from the leaves.
• Any parts of affected plants. easily adapt to any conditions and feel great in a compost environment.
• Remains of castor bean, lily of the valley, foxglove.
• Do not put nightshade tops (tomatoes, potatoes) in the compost. They contain poisons that poison the microorganisms involved in composting, thereby slowing down the entire process.
• The peel of any citrus fruits - it not only rots for a long time, but also strongly repels earthworms and bacteria.
• Food waste of animal origin, as well as feces. All this decomposes in a compost heap very reluctantly, and smells spread disgusting.

And, of course, what kind of compost can you get if you throw non-decomposable household waste into it from:

1. Glass and plastic.
2. Plastics or synthetic fabrics.
3. Large bones, etc.!

Important! In fact, the composition and useful properties of the future "home-made" fertilizer depend on how to make compost and what to put in it at the first stage.

DIY compost: cooking methods

It is worth noting that the methods for making compost at the beginning of the garden season and at the end have a significant difference. In general, if you look more broadly, then the conversation should be about two completely different technologies. They differ in both complexity and duration of processing.

Quick compost in bags

This is a more modern and least expensive way to get high-quality fertilizer in a short time. It is especially popular because it does not require the preparation of pits, boxes or the purchase of special containers. After all, this compost is recycled in ordinary bags!

Advice! To make quick compost in bags, it is, of course, better to choose stronger packaging. As a composter, you can use bags for construction waste. It is desirable that they do not stretch, withstand dampness and sudden changes in temperature. But, for lack of a better one, many summer residents use ordinary garbage bags of 120-250 liters.

In the preparation of quick compost in bags, the same “useful” vegetable waste is used: leaves, grass, carrion, etc. They are crushed and placed in bags in dense layers, sprinkled with earth.

Remember that tomato leaves in compost not used!

But do not forget that the entire mass of plant waste, folded into bags, needs to be slightly moistened. The container with the finished mixture is hermetically packed and left where it will be stored for 2-3 months.

This method is very good, especially for making compost in the fall. When the waste in the country has accumulated with interest, and there is not much time left for their processing. At the exit, after a maximum of three months, rotted loose fertilizer with a characteristic smell of rotten earth is obtained in bags.

Important! It is this smell, combined with the loose consistency and black-brown color of the compost mass, that indicates that the compost is ripe and ready for use.

How to make compost in a box or pit

Old-fashioned, proven for centuries, the option answers the question: "How to make compost if you have a lot of time." Because before getting the result you need to wait from 9 months to a year. Yes, and you will have to tinker much more than in the case of bags.

The whole technological cycle of compost preparation can be laid down in 5 simple steps.

1. Find a spot in the shade but away from trees.
2. Install a ventilated fence made of boards or chain-link mesh. This can be done not only on the surface of the earth. For this purpose, you can dig a hole up to a meter deep and about 1.5x2m in size.
3. Lay the prepared waste in layers, spill it well with water.
4. Cover the finished pile with a dark "breathable" material, such as acrylic or ordinary straw.

Do not forget! Open the compost chamber regularly and mix the contents thoroughly so that decomposition proceeds faster and more evenly.

How to speed up the maturation of compost

To activate the processes and to reduce the acidity of the compost mass, 1 liter of ash and several grams of ammonium nitrate are added to it. To make compost as soon as possible, it is recommended to use all kinds of EM preparations. The effective microorganisms and bacteria contained in them help to significantly reduce the maturation time of the compost, speeding up the process of decomposition of organic matter.

What is your benefit

The advantages of composting especially include a large amount of processed mass. If the pit is equipped with a partition, then you can transfer the finished humus to a separate compartment and constantly replenish the storage with new waste.

Also, composting is carried out in the same place for many years. And also, you do not need to constantly purchase packaging, as is the case with bagged compost.

Video: How to make good compost

Whichever method you choose to use, composting plant waste from your site will in any case be very useful for you. Now you know how to make compost with your own hands and get rid of garbage, moreover, by turning it into high-quality fertilizer of your own production.

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In any household, waste will always accumulate - branches, grass, manure, leaves and much more. You can simply burn them, or you can prepare a useful nutrient fertilizer for plants. How to make a compost heap in the country with your own hands is a whole science. It is based not only on the principles of combining components, but also on the work of those microorganisms that process plant residues, because fertilizer will not take place without them.

The work of bacteria and earthworms in nature is that they gradually eat and digest the remains of plants and all organic matter in the soil. In the digestive tract, the remains are decomposed into the smallest components and fermented, resulting in the formation of humic acids - the main indicator of soil fertility.

What is compost and its value

To compost means to combine. If you collect all the unnecessary organic matter from the garden and put it in a pile or a pit, then sooner or later the microorganisms will do their job - they will digest the substances. But summer residents and industry went further: they learned how to speed up the process, which takes two years in natural conditions, and also created new ways to quickly process plant residues.

The principle of compost heap maturation is as follows: all organic matter contains bacteria that perform the primary processing of raw materials. Earthworms eat the remains of microorganisms and plants, releasing coprolites into the surrounding space. After complete processing of the components, they turn into a dark substance, saturated with humates and nutrients.

The value of compost is:

• in the beneficial disposal of waste;

• microorganisms living in the compost heap are able to suppress and control pathogenic bacteria, thereby protecting plants from diseases;

• fertilizer is practically free;

• improves the physical and chemical indicators of the soil - moisture capacity, aeration;

• suitable for all plants.

When using various biodegraders, you can get up to three servings of fertilizer per season, depending on the size of the compost bin and the amount of waste.

Ingredients - how to choose the right one

Making a compost heap with your own hands in the country requires the correct calculation of the components. They are divided into carbon - brown and nitrogen - green.

The first ones include:

• fallen leaves;

• sawdust, tree bark, chips;

• straw or hay;

• coniferous needles;

• newsprint or toilet paper;

• cut lignified shoots;

• you can put natural fabrics in the compost - silk, linen or cotton, after crushing them.

Nitrogen components are:

• mowed fresh grass;

• weeds;

• manure or litter;

• fresh vegetable or fruit trimmings;

• sea ​​plants.

For every nitrogen part, there should be 2 parts of carbon, so that the composting process does not slow down and is not disturbed.

Composting methods - with or without oxygen

In nature, there are two types of bacteria that process waste - aerobic and anaerobic. The former breathe oxygen and die in its absence, they live in the upper layers of the soil, decomposing the roots and tops into tiny particles.

Anaerobes do not need oxygen and function in closed spaces. To cultivate them on an industrial scale, for example, for the production of preparations for septic tanks, the nutrient medium is isolated under a layer of paraffin to prevent oxygen from entering the liquid through the surface.

The compost heap can be open or closed, that is, be permeable or isolated from the external environment. In the first case, aerobes will multiply and work, in the second - anaerobes.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. With the composter open, it will take more effort and time to care for the compost heap to ripen evenly.

With proper care and regular mixing of the layers, the finished fertilizer is obtained in 2-3 months, provided that EO preparations are used to accelerate maturation. Without additional additives, the fertilizer will be completely ready. after 1.5 - 2 years.

In a closed container, you don’t need to do anything like that - just fold the components correctly and close. The ripening process takes longer - about a year and a half without the use of biodestructors - compost accelerators.

Benefits of each method

A properly made compost heap on the site with the aerobic method matures faster. With the use of EM preparations, compost can be obtained in 1.5 - 2 months. It is easier for gardeners to control the process, since when the components dry out, the activity of bacteria stops, the combustion temperature drops, and the substances stop decomposing.

It is necessary to add clean water, preferably with accelerator preparations. The disadvantage of this method is that in the process some of the nutrients evaporate. To a greater extent, this applies to nitrogen. Aerobic compost emits an odor when it rots, but it escapes into the atmosphere and does not cause any inconvenience.

With anaerobic composting, almost all nutrients remain in the composter. By adding carbon dry ingredients that absorb liquid, concentrated compost can be made.

It is suitable for top dressing of adult plants, but for young seedlings it will need to be mixed with the soil to reduce the concentration. The time for preparing a compost heap in an anaerobic way is on average 4-6 months. This is the fastest thing you can expect from bacteria, even if you add them in the form of drugs.

With a properly organized process, acidity rises and destroys helminth eggs if there is manure in the composition. Weed seeds do not withstand such an environment.

The most useful compost - with earthworms

In the middle of the last century, the study of the activity of red earthworms, which were called Californian, began, since it was in California that they were first used to make very nutritious compost. It turned out that they multiply faster and digest plant residues more. An adult individual eats as much food per day as much as it weighs itself, and multiplies hundreds of times faster laying cocoons.

After research, it turned out that after the processing of waste by red Californian worms, there is several times more humus than after other species. Currently, biohumus is the most expensive organic fertilizer that fully pays for itself. Plants require several times less substance, but it is absorbed by 98%. For comparison, mineral fertilizers are only 30%.

Organic fertilizer - do-it-yourself compost heap using earthworms can be equipped in the warm season. To do this, they buy several individuals for breeding and run them into a container. In the warm season, they intensively feed and breed.

The life span of the red worm is 16 years under favorable conditions. It is necessary to maintain the level of moisture and temperature - this species does not tolerate frost and drying out of the habitat. The optimum temperature is 18 - 20 degrees Celsius. It is advisable not to overfill the compost heap, as eukaryotes can suffocate.

Layers are laid loosely to allow air to circulate inside. As the food components in the compost heap are eaten, a new portion is added to the worms, and they crawl into the upper layer, and the lower one is ready for use.

Worm farms with compost heaps in the garden are a good business. In autumn, with cold snaps, the boxes are transferred to a warm place. Californian worms lack the instinct of self-preservation - with the onset of cold weather, they do not crawl into the lower layers of the soil, but stray into a ball near the surface and freeze like that.

Open and closed composter

For airtight composting, it is important to know how to make a compost heap with your own hands. A completely sealed building is required. For this purpose, a plastic container with a hatch or a concrete container dug into the ground is suitable. At the same time, the bottom must be filled with cement mortar so that nutrients are not absorbed into the soil, but are preserved for plants. There must be a cover with a hatch.

You can apply a simple method - put the components in garbage bags and put them in a cool place where the sun's rays do not fall.

An open compost heap with your own hands is made easier. It is necessary to build a box of boards, the gaps between which will promote air circulation. It is better to make 2 boxes side by side so that, if necessary, you can transfer the ripening compost from one box to another.

There are special plastic containers with holes for aerobic composting, but their price will be much higher than a home-made construction from improvised materials - nets, boards, slate, plastic sheets.

Rules for laying down components - nitrogen and carbon ingredients

If you do not know how to make a compost heap correctly, you can spoil the raw materials. The main thing is to follow the rule of mixing components - 1 part nitrogen to 2 parts carbon. Between them should lie layers of soil.

The first - the lowest layer - is soil or peat. You can lay dry straw or hay on the bottom. This is a kind of bedding that will absorb liquid and control the amount of air inside.

Further, green and brown layers alternate, which are shifted by earth. Nitrogen-only compost will deteriorate faster if lime is not added. If there is a stench, you need to urgently add carbonaceous substances, slaked lime, mix and add EM preparations - you can use those that are prepared at home. Sour-milk and yeast solutions are suitable.

If the content of carbon substances is exceeded, then the maturation of the compost heap can be expected for a very long time. Without nitrogenous components, the decomposition process will not start. You can speed it up by adding greenery and watering with EM preparations. In the absence of both, urea or saltpeter is used as the nitrogen substance.

Video: DIY compost heap

If desired, mineral fertilizers, ash, bone meal or superphosphate are added to the finished fertilizer to increase nutritional characteristics.

What can not be entered

Diseased plants are not suitable for composting. If the temperature is not enough, fungus spores will spread with the compost throughout the site. It will be difficult to remove them and the entire crop will die.

Do not add sawdust from painted boards. The chemicals kill the bacteria. A component such as coniferous litter is used carefully, as it increases the acidity of the finished fertilizer.

Plastic, metal, glossy paper, glass and synthetic fabrics are not suitable for composting, as they are not recycled by bacteria.

How to take care of compost during maturation

Anaerobic compost does not require maintenance, other than choosing a location away from sunlight. Microorganisms die at high temperatures.