Do-it-yourself fabric ceiling installation. Do-it-yourself fabric ceiling

Why are so many of us attracted to the opportunity to make repairs, or at least part of it, on our own? There are probably several reasons. This is both a pleasant satisfaction from the high-quality work done by one's own hands, which can be shown to guests with special pride, and the opportunity to get exactly such an interior design and quality of finishing that invited specialists cannot do for some reason.

And most often it is the desire to achieve the desired result with the lowest financial costs. Look at the ceiling - isn't it time to put it in order?

If such work seems difficult to you due to large level differences, the need for dirty washing and puttying processes, do not despair: there is a much easier, faster and cheaper way to make the ceiling absolutely smooth and clean with your own hands.

The idea is to make quality repairs accessible to all by using materials in a non-trivial way.

Necessary materials and tools

No, until we need a hardware supermarket - we go to the fabric store. That's right, because we will make the ceiling from the material for the curtains. There are several important points here:

Curtain fabrics have a standard height of 2.8 or 3 m. Most rooms are somewhat larger. Hence the conclusion - the panels will have to be sewn together. If you have a sewing machine, this is a matter of a couple of minutes; if not, any atelier will surely help you. It is better to add two narrow strips along the edges to make it symmetrical, but in general the seams are almost invisible on the finished ceiling.
The fabric can be any - matte or with a slight sheen, colored, with patterns. This is especially true for children. But, if you have to make seams, choose a plain material.
If you want to avoid seams, you will have to build a drywall structure around the perimeter of the room so that the width of the material is enough to cover the remaining area. If you dreamed of a two-level ceiling, this is a great chance to make your dream come true.
The length and width of the finished cloth should be approximately 20 cm larger than the corresponding room dimensions.

The material for stretching is bought - now it's time to take care of the fasteners. We need very little:

Cable channels are plastic with a single lock, which are sold at any electrical store. There are also plastic tubes to protect the cables. We select cable channels and tubes of the same caliber, for example, 16 mm. The total length of each material is equal to the perimeter of the room.
Bar with a section of 25x30 or 25x40 mm. They can be of a different size, which depends on how many centimeters you want to lower the ceiling plane. The footage is also equal to the perimeter of the room.
Wood screws, small, for example, 16 or 19 mm, at the rate of 1 pc. for every 0.5 m of the perimeter.
Plastic dowels and self-tapping screws for them, the length of which depends on the cross-section of the timber. Quantity — 1 pc. per linear meter of timber.
To give the finished ceiling a finished look, ordinary polyurethane foam baguettes are used. Their number is easy to calculate based on the footage of the remaining running materials.
Masking tape (paper).
Threaded hook for hanging the lamp.

Of the tools you will need: a drill, a screwdriver or a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a building level, a tape measure and a beating cord.

Mounting system

First you need to determine the location of the future ceiling. To do this, we use a building level and a coloring cord to beat straight lines.

To understand what the lowering of the ceiling level will be, you need to make simple calculations: a + b = c, where a- section of the beam, b- caliber of cable channels and tubes, with- the height of the entire structure. For example, if we took a 25x30 beam and 16 mm cable channels, the ceiling level will decrease by 46 mm.

Almost always, the geometry of our premises is far from ideal, and the walls may differ from each other in height. In order for our ceiling to be horizontal, we will have to measure the height of the walls, for this we measure each in several places. We find the point where the wall is the lowest - in this place we retreat 30 mm from the ceiling and beat off a horizontal line through this point with the help of a coloring cord. We check the horizon with a building level.

To be sure of the correctness of the markup, we check: we cross-connect the corners of the room with cords attached to the line. If the cords touch in the center, everything is in order. If they are at a distance or bend over each other, there are errors in the markup.

We prepare the beam: it must be attached along the broken line to the walls. We drill holes for self-tapping screws in increments of about 1 m, mark the points for drilling holes for dowels on the walls.

We remove the covers from the cable channels - we do not need them. We attach the box to the beam from below in the longitudinal direction, stepping back from the edge of 0.5-1 cm. In the corners we join them in a T-shape, with a gap of 2-3 mm. Fasteners are made with small self-tapping screws in increments of about 50 cm. The self-tapping screws are screwed into the “crossbar” of the U-shaped box.

Let's not forget about the lamp. Near the outlet of the electric cable on the ceiling, we fasten a piece of timber into which we screw the hook. Its bend should be about 2 cm below the level of the future ceiling. We pull two cords diagonally through the center of the room - we find the required level.

Panel stretch

To make the fasteners more reliable, it is worth carrying out one more preparatory event. Plastic tubes are pasted over with paper tape. No need to try to do it very carefully - the more folds and creases there are, the better.

At the moment, we can say that the main part of the work is done - the simplest and most pleasant remains. Before stretching, it is recommended to remove dust well from the floor, walls and ceiling of the room so as not to stain the panel. It needs to be ironed to remove wrinkles. It will also be useful to lightly spray the fabric with antistatic so that in the future the dust that appears in each room does not settle on the ceiling.

Stretching is easiest to do with two or three people, although one person can do this job quite well. The edge of the cloth is thrown onto a plastic tube, which, together with the fabric, is inserted into the groove of the cable channel with light pressure and pinched in it. Thus, all edges of the ceiling material are raised and fixed.

Now the fabric needs to be stretched - you need to start from the middle of the wall and move gradually to the corners. With one hand, the tube is held in the groove, the other hand pulls the edge of the panel down and towards the corner in order to gradually drive all the folds there. Things will go faster if you pull on two opposite sides of the perimeter at the same time. You need to pull hard, but so that the tubes do not pop out of the grooves.

Before finally fixing the fabric, it is necessary to make a hole for the electrical cable and the hook. It is clearly visible from below, as it stands out on the plane of the stretched fabric. The hole is made using any available device, such as a lighter. So we "kill" two birds with one stone - we make a hole and fix its edges so that the "arrow" on the fabric does not run.

When the hole is ready, remove the fabric from the fasteners on one side of the room to the hook, carefully pass the cable and hook through the hole, and then fasten the fabric back. Later, the hole will be closed with a decorative lamp cap. If the hole is made in advance, before stretching, there is a danger of "missing" and it will be more difficult to fit the hole to the hook. In addition, if you singe the edges of the hole in the unstretched state, when stretched, there is a chance that the “arrow” will still appear on the fabric.

Only details remain. Once again, carefully stretch the panel to remove all the wrinkles. It would be nice to moisten the fabric with a spray bottle so that it stretches even more when it dries. To be sure of the fastening, you can screw the screws directly through the tube to prevent it from rotating under the tension of the fabric. The pitch of the screws is about 0.5 m.

Fastener masking

It remains to hide the fasteners with polyurethane baguettes. They are cut and glued to the wall in the same way as it is done with conventional repairs, with the difference that they are not attached to the ceiling.

Before gluing, the hanging edge of the fabric must be rolled up and fixed to the beam, for example, with tape or a stapler. It is better to use baguettes with symmetrical shoulders, that is, having an angle shape with equal sides in cross section.

Baguettes can be painted in advance, or after installation. Then the ceiling panel must be protected with a long spatula.

Why do we need all this

The ceiling is ready! Perfectly smooth, beautiful and ... very inexpensive. The lion's share of its value is fabric. If you have had repairs done before, it is quite possible that you have extra scraps of building materials left - you can use them and not spend money on buying timber. Self-tapping screws and dowels, too, for sure, every owner will find.

The most inexpensive fabric for curtains costs about 200-300 rubles. We take 3.2 m, we spend 960 rubles.
Cable channels and tubes cost about 10-12 rubles per linear meter. 11 meters will cost 132 rubles.
A bar 25x30 is offered at a price of about 20 rubles. for a three meter line. Thus, lumber will cost us 80 rubles.
Self-tapping screws can be bought by weight, a handful of these fasteners will not pull more than 100 rubles. The same applies to dowels.
An ordinary baguette for ceilings costs about 100 rubles. for a segment of 2 m. Accordingly, 6 shoulder straps - 600 rubles.

Let's calculate? We spent several hours and 1972 rubles to bring the ceiling into perfect condition. As they say, comments are superfluous ...

Of course, like most other ceiling repair methods, this method also has its weaknesses. The main one is the inability to wash the cloth without removing it. However, as you have already seen, this process is not very difficult. If the neighbors above behave peacefully, nothing threatens your ceiling!

Modern fabrics allow you to perform unusual shapes of ceilings and change any room beyond recognition. Consider what the drapery of the ceiling with a cloth is like, the features of the fastening of the canvas and the popular styles of decoration.

The content of the article:

A fabric ceiling is a ceiling surface decorated with fabric, which is considered an alternative way to design a ceiling. The main task of draping the ceiling with fabric is to add harmony to the interior and create comfort in the room. To obtain the desired result, adhere to certain rules for the selection of fabric and arrangement of the structure, which we will now get acquainted with.

Advantages and disadvantages of fabric ceilings

Decorating ceilings with fabric has become popular due to the many advantages of this method. Advantages of drapery overlap:

Pre-treatment of the base base is not required, since the canvas is usually attached at the edges and does not touch the floor surface.
This is one of the few ways to decorate the ceiling that does not require building skills.
The fabric covers the unsightly appearance of the overlap.
Wiring, cables and communications can be fixed to the base ceiling, which will then be covered with a canvas.
The fabric ceiling has good thermal insulation properties.
The false ceiling is not easy to damage, minor defects are invisible.
The ceiling decorated with fabric turns into an exclusive work of art.

In addition to the obvious advantages, fabric ceilings also have disadvantages. Matter has a porous structure and does not hold water. When wet for a long time, the fabric changes color, an unpleasant odor appears. The fabric absorbs odors.

Design features of fabric ceilings

The canvas allows you to create interesting design effects on the ceiling, which should match the overall interior of the rooms. To choose the best option, study the popular methods of ceiling drapery.

A tent-like ceiling looks good if the walls are decorated in the appropriate style. This type of drapery looks good in independent performance. A hipped ceiling significantly reduces the height of the ceiling near the walls and cannot be used in any room. For a better perception, it is desirable to take a photo of the fabric ceiling, made in the form of a tent.

Wavy ceilings are made with the help of additional suspensions. Any material is suitable for such structures, but it is better to use translucent and not very heavy types.

The method of installing a fabric ceiling "from the walls to the center" has many variations. For example, a web of soft material can be hung with slack or pulled tighter to form a large number of flat folds. Usually, a chandelier is placed in the center of the composition to obtain a semantic center.

Choice of fabric for ceiling drapery

The device of a fabric ceiling is very simple: a canvas for creating a false ceiling and a frame for attaching it. Very often, the canvas is modified to install lamps, and slats, tubes or other elements are added to the base ceiling or frame to create a relief surface. Information about drapery fabrics and profiles is given below.

Material requirements for ceiling upholstery

There are practically no restrictions on the choice of fabric for drapery, but there is a practical side to the problem. The material for the ceiling must have the following properties:

Do not change the strength properties and appearance under the influence of sunlight.
Do not lose shape and color after numerous washes.
Matter should not be too wrinkled.
Choose stretchy fabric.
Do not use materials that have the property of "collecting dirt".
The choice of fabric type is also influenced by the desire of the user to use a material with certain properties.
Fabric made from natural ingredients (linen, cotton, wool) goes well with the wooden elements of the room. In addition to decorative functions, it has good heat and sound insulating characteristics.
Drapery fabrics must be treated with anti-static, anti-allergic and dust repellent agents. After impregnation, the material is not afraid of sunlight, has a high degree of wear resistance. All types of fabrics - natural and synthetic - are subjected to such impregnation.

Types of fabric for drapery ceiling

Among customers, such options for upholstery of the ceiling with fabric are popular:

Linen. The cover is nice and solid. The canvas does not sag over time, it does not stretch during installation. During cleaning, dust is quickly removed from the surface.
Jacquard. Gives the room comfort and respectability.
fine silk. Always creates a sense of sophistication and celebration.
Cotton. Associated with tranquility.
Chiffon. Use in bedrooms and children's rooms. It gives the ceiling lightness and airiness. The fabric does not stretch after installation, dust does not collect on its surface
exotic jute. Helps to create original styles.
Beautiful matting. Combines with country style.
Brocade. For the ceiling, material of bright colors is used. Noble heavy fabric is used to decorate a living room or hall.
Herringbone fabric. Suitable for any design.
Canvas. Brings a feeling of unshakable well-being.
Velvet. Admire luxury.

Some types of materials have the properties of sound absorption, water resistance, for example, leather, tapestries.

The color scheme of paintings for ceiling sheathing

Different colors and patterns of fabric create effects that visually change the shape of the room, and can also influence people's emotions. To decorate the ceiling, fabrics with any structure are used - shiny and matte, transparent and dense, plain and with patterns.

Colors are chosen depending on the purpose of the room:

If the color of the ceiling is darker than the walls, it will press and hang over you.
Fabric with transverse stripes is stretched in narrow spaces. This design visually increases the space of the room, but reduces the height of the ceiling.
A ceiling with a longitudinal pattern or stripes increases the height of the ceiling.
A small pattern on the ceiling makes the room cozy.
A canvas with large patterns is not recommended for installation in small rooms.
Light ceilings create the illusion of increasing the interior space of the room, dense and dark colors create the opposite effect.
The red color of the canvas is uplifting, but for some people it can cause irritation. Fabric of this shade is never used in rest rooms.
Yellow is good for the eyes, stimulates the nervous system.
In rooms with green ceilings, you can relax and unwind. Green color is considered to be a relaxant all over the world. It calms, reduces pressure and has a positive effect on heart rate.
It works well with blue ceilings, lethargy and apathy go away.
Violet color adjusts to reflection, but the eyes quickly get tired.

Preparatory work before upholstery of the ceiling with fabric

Features of preparing for the installation of a fabric ceiling:

Fabric before drapery should be prepared. Cut off a small piece from the main canvas and measure it. Wet the cloth, dry it and measure again. If the size has not changed, you can start draping the ceiling. When changing the size, the entire fabric should be decoated - wet, dry and iron.
It is advisable to use one piece of canvas to get a seamless ceiling. If it was not possible to acquire a wide canvas, the fabric is sewn together and then ironed, especially carefully processed at the joints.
Before work, wind the canvas on a long pole, this will facilitate the assembly of the structure.
It is best to mount the ceiling together: one holds the roll, the second fastens the canvas to the frame or ceiling.

Fabric ceiling installation technology

You can fix the material to the ceiling as you like, but all options will be modifications of the most popular mounting methods.

The frame method involves mounting the structure on the floor, followed by fastening to the ceiling. The frame is assembled from wooden or plastic slats. Usually this method is used to obtain flat structures or products with a slightly sagging web. The frame ceiling can be attached to the ceiling using special fixtures. In this case, you can adjust the height of the ceiling. One of the varieties of fabric ceilings made in the frame way is called boiserie. They are sold as finished fabric or leather panels that are made to order. The user only needs to fix the product to the ceiling.

Fastening the fabric with rails involves the use of wooden or plastic bars measuring 30x40 mm, which are first attached to the ceiling without matter. Wooden structures are used in rooms, plastic - in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet. For drapery, a fabric with a 20% margin is used. In this way, fabrics of pastel shades with gilded or silver threads are fixed.

Fastening the fabric on the rails is carried out in the following sequence:

Fix the slats around the perimeter of the room near the walls with dowels and self-tapping screws.
Stretch the fabric from one wall to another, across the entire width of the room, check the absence of waves on the canvas.
Fasten the canvas to the bars with staples, starting from the middle of the wall and moving towards the corners, gradually unwinding the canvas from the roll. For fixing, use staples No. 8, 10. Stuff the staples often, so use an electric stapler.
After fixing the canvas on one side of the room, move on to the other. At the end of the work, the fabric should not sag.
Measure the gaps between the slats and the walls and cut the decorative MDF panel to size.
Close the gap with the prepared panel. Staple marks can also be masked with tape, and a ceiling plinth can be used instead of an MDF board.

The clip-on version of the installation of fabric ceilings involves attaching the baguettes to the walls, and then fixing the canvas to them. This method is used to obtain volumetric and airy ceilings. Synthetic fabrics are usually fastened with the clip method. Fastening the canvas in clips is no different from the method of fixing the film of stretch ceilings. Before installation, a tape with a clip is sewn to the edges of the canvas, which snaps into the baguette.

Velcro is considered the easiest method of fastening. The canvas is held on textile Velcro fasteners, which are sewn onto the fabric and glued in appropriate places on the ceiling or frame. This method allows you to quickly remove the canvas and permanently solve the question of how to make the fabric ceiling collapsible. The option is not designed for massive structures; Velcro may not withstand heavy fabric.

Most often, silk fabric is fixed to the ceiling with glue. The process is similar to gluing wallpaper, but the glue is applied only to the ceiling. The upholstery of the ceiling with a fabric is performed in the following sequence:

Smooth out surface irregularities with putty.
If the ceiling is painted, go over the surface with sandpaper until it is rough.
Clean the ceiling of dust and rinse with soda solution. If you find dark spots, paint over them so that they do not appear later.
Prime the surface.
Apply a layer of special glue to the ceiling and give it a little time to dry.
Next, press the canvas firmly against the ceiling and smooth it with a rubber roller. The next strip is glued in compliance with the canvas pattern.
The fabric begins to be glued from the center of the room to the walls. If the matter is with a pattern, control that it does not go astray.

The negative aspects of gluing the fabric include a long period of drying of the glue and the frequent detachment of the canvas from the ceiling, therefore, before the glue hardens, it is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the ceiling.

To obtain a ceiling in the form of waves or sails, thin tubes or cords are attached to the ceiling or walls, and the canvas is thrown over them. Also, beautiful waves are obtained in the case of fastening the canvas to the ceiling with Velcro.

Watch a video about draping the ceiling with fabric:

You can experiment with drapery of the ceiling with fabric indefinitely, the main thing is that the material used and the design style must match the interior of the room. All methods of decorating floors are quite simple and allow you to make a fabric ceiling with your own hands.

The arrangement of the ceiling zone is a rather extensive topic, which is part of the concept of repair. Today, the development of technology pleases millions of people with the availability of original ideas that allow them to solve individual design problems on their own. And at the same time, by the way, save money, and at the same time get moral satisfaction from the creative process.

Few people will have to dispute the fact that it is high time to refuse whitewashing-painting (at least if we are not talking about closets, house entrances or outbuildings). This means that new ways should come to replace the "grandmother's" methods. And they are. These are stretch ceiling structures.

At about the same time, stretch ceilings made of PVC and ceilings made of fabric impregnated with a polyurethane composition came to the market. What are their fundamental differences, pros and cons, advantages and disadvantages? Let's compare.

The elasticity of PVC film is definitely a plus. Some users have already encountered the legendary water bubble, which is formed in case of flooding of the room from above (a team on call arrives and releases the accumulated water, after which the ceiling returns to its previous shape). Fabric ceilings do not have such dignity.

But on the other hand, unlike PVC, fabric stretch ceilings can be repeatedly repainted with water-based paint. The polyester thread has such a weave that layer upon layer is painted without any visible flaws: the ceiling fabric looks like new.

There is another important advantage of fabric ceilings. For their installation, it is not necessary to heat the room with heat guns to a temperature of +60 ... +70 ° C. This means that your decoration (decor and wallpaper), furniture, and other household items will not be affected. Agree, an important "detail", especially when you consider that in some apartments and offices quite a lot of money was spent on furniture and finishing materials.

The fabric ceiling structure can easily be placed in rooms where there is little or no heating at all. Polyvinyl chloride clearly does not agree to such conditions - give it a temperature of + 18 ... + 20 ° C, not lower! In a cool atmosphere, it simply deforms and deteriorates irreversibly. As for fabric ceilings, they calmly endure the temperature range of -40 ... + 80 ° C without compromising their performance.

Fabric ceilings are durable, they are practical, have high fire safety, and are functional. In addition, manufacturers offer a fairly wide choice of design (color, pattern). In stores, ceiling fabric is sold in rolls 5 m wide. It is easy to calculate the required footage and buy as much as you need without waste.

And, finally, the most important advantage: a fabric stretch ceiling is easy to install on your own, without resorting to the services of a professional team. This, if you work with two or three, will take a maximum of 2-3 hours.

Video - Installing a fabric ceiling

Work order

There is a simple order of steps that you need to follow one after the other, without looking ahead and without mixing one with the other. If you want to get a high-quality result as soon as possible, follow the recommendations.

We prepare a baguette, self-tapping screws, a decorative plug in advance

A baguette is a mounting profile for mounting a frame around the perimeter of a room. The ceiling fabric will just hold onto the frame. Material: wooden plank, metal corner or plastic rail. Both a purchased version and a home-made product will do (many men are fond of carpentry work, so they often have everything they need at their disposal). The optimal dimensions are 40x50 or 50x50 cm.

A decorative cap plays the role of an edging that is visible from the outside. It is stuffed after stretching the fabric at the place of its joining with the walls. The function is the same as that of the plinth covering the edge of the pasted wallpaper strips at the bottom of the walls.

Self-tapping screws or screws are needed in order to provide point attachment of the fabric to the walls. Holes are pre-drilled with a drill, where factory-made plastic bushings or home-made wooden plugs are placed. It is easy to drive self-tapping screws into them using a screwdriver. With a large area, of course, it is better to use a self-tapping screw, and in a 5-meter "Khrushchev" kitchen, you can do it manually, using an ordinary screwdriver.

We calculate the area of the canvas

As mentioned above, special tricks for stretching fabric ceilings are not required. Thermal heating is also not needed to stretch the canvas. All you need to know is how to correctly calculate the area. We offer a simple, time-tested formula: (room width + 15 cm) x (room length + 15 cm) = fabric area in square meters.

It is easiest to work when the ceiling has a strictly square or rectangular shape. But sometimes there are ledges on the ceilings, the room may have bay windows, columns, decorative niches, ceiling embrasures, windows and other “non-format”. Also remember to cut small holes in the places where the wiring of pendant lights and chandeliers will be.

In these areas, you need to carefully make measurements and cut the fabric accordingly. If you succeed, it will go without a hitch. However, on large areas, sometimes you have to mount complex seam structures - this is not a problem, only you will need a little more time and more attention so as not to make a mistake with the cut.

Video - Complex installation of a fabric ceiling

Don't forget about lights

In places where lighting devices are removed from the ceiling, it is necessary to install a thermally insulating gasket. It has a round slot through which the electrical wire will pass. The gasket provides fire safety.

Plastic inserts are installed before the tension of the common web begins.

Checking the set of tools for work

Once again, carefully check the list of necessary tools:

water or laser level;
impact electric drill or hammer drill;
screwdriver (screwdriver);
a hammer;
scissors;
roulette;
grinder or hacksaw (for metal or wood - depending on the baguette material);
construction knife.

And now we act

Step 1. With the help of the level, we outline the line for attaching the baguette. The appearance of the future ceiling in a stretched form will depend on the accuracy at this stage. Determine the height in such a way that the fabric is as close as possible to the “native” building ceiling, unless you want to visually underestimate the height of the room for some reason. Although this happens (in the case of complex structures consisting of several levels).

Step 2 Stuff a baguette around the perimeter of the room.

Step 3. Temporarily remove chandeliers and fixtures.

Step 4 Stretch the pre-cut ceiling fabric.

Step 5. Through the holes in the heat-insulating rings, pull out the electrical wires from the ceiling lights. Install chandeliers and lamps in their places, carefully fix.

Step 6. Carefully nail a decorative cap on the entire frame.

Step 7. Install a decorative cap in the places of bay windows, ceiling embrasures, windows, etc. (If there are any). Sometimes on the sloping ceilings of private houses or summer cottages there are windows that have special frames - they need to be removed before stretching the fabric ceiling, and then put back after the work is completed.

Stretch fabric ceilings do not require special care. They are unpretentious, and at the same time ready to please you for many years. By production the technology of knitted weaving is used. This means that the elasticity is sufficient for the fabric to “breathe”. But painting in a different color is quite real. Use water based paint. It fits well, no cracks or sagging remain on the surface.

Source: stretch-ceiling33.rf

What you need to know about stretch ceilings

There are only two types of them: polyvinyl chloride. PVC is cheaper and often produces a glossy finish. They have a huge variety of colors and do not let water through. But there are also significant disadvantages: the material can be torn by hooking it with a sharp object, and self-installation is practically excluded. It requires the use of special equipment, namely a thermal gas gun, which will heat your room up to 65 ° C and give the film elasticity for further installation.

In addition, several seams are almost always visible on such ceilings, since the standard width of a film roll is 1.5 meters, and when making a canvas for a room, these segments are soldered by a special machine. Of course, there are exceptions - these are expensive European companies that produce PVC film up to 5 meters wide, but their cost is so huge that they are a rare visitor to our markets.

A completely different matter is the ceilings, which have a fabric base. They are made, as you may have guessed, from cotton fabric 5.1 meters wide. Such a canvas covers a room 5 meters wide, which is the construction standard, because wider rooms are a rarity. There are no apartments with such a wide room at all, except that you demolished several partitions. Apartment buildings are built using standard floor slabs 6 meters long, and then they are not located across the room, but along. In general, do not worry that you will not have enough width of 5 meters.

The installation of such a surface does not require any heat guns and pre-cutting, soldering the fabric or gluing harpoons, as is the case with PVC. The installation is "clean" and does not take more than a few hours if you have an assistant. Therefore, you can do all the work yourself and not involve expensive specialists.

The fabric is impregnated with a special polyurethane solution during manufacture, which gives the fabric great mechanical strength and resistance to water. Thus, by installing the canvas even in a damp room, you do not risk spoiling the material. In addition, such impregnation contributes to the fact that it absolutely does not absorb odors and does not support combustion.

After finishing all the work, you will get a perfectly smooth, classic matte surface that is perfect for any interior. A variety of colors will allow you to choose a ceiling for any design of the room and furniture. Of course, it is not as large as in the case of PVC, which even has the possibility of photo printing. But if you are not chasing a bright and colorful appearance of the room, then you can do without such a function.

With all the above advantages, unfortunately, there are several significant disadvantages. Firstly, this material does not retain moisture. Yes, it is impregnated with polyurethane and does not deform when water gets on it, and it can even be washed. That's only if you are flooded by neighbors, such a ceiling will not become an obstacle to water, but let it pass through itself. Here, of course, he is given a head start by PVC, which is a continuous barrier and only forms a kind of bag with water that can be drained through the chandelier hole.

The second disadvantage is the price, which is often an order of magnitude higher than that of vinyl films. But this is more than covered by the fact that you will install it yourself and save on the masters. The third disadvantage is that your main ceiling will not breathe in any case, although at first glance the texture of the canvas suggests this and allows water to pass through.

In general, if you are not confused by the nuances with color and texture, as well as small disadvantages with moisture retention, then this is a completely and completely excellent finishing option.

Preparatory work

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to carry out a set of works that is aimed at preventing, as well as take the time to manufacture lighting and cornices, if necessary. This is done in this sequence.

We calculate the required amount of materials and make purchases.
We remove a chandelier or other lighting fixtures from the ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to disconnect the apartment from the power supply by disassembling the machines, open the junction box located opposite the chandelier, and disconnect the wires leading to it and to the switch.
Next, you need to cover the surface with an antifungal compound. If there are fungal lesions, they should be treated with copper sulphate or store-bought compounds from mold and fungi, which, according to our observations, are still not as effective as vitriol.
After the applied layer has dried, it is necessary to apply a deep penetration primer. It is not mandatory to do this, but it is still recommended. This will create an additional protective layer, which will further prevent the formation of mold and cracking of the old surface, whether it be lime or water-based emulsion.

Let's move on to lighting planning. It would be best to mount the main lighting with a chandelier and additional lighting from spotlights. It is modern and when using LED lamps it will save electricity, while filling the room with excellent bright light. It is best to make the connection based on the following scheme, this option is optimal for most rooms:

Remember that it is best to lay the wires in a corrugated pipe and fix them with special fasteners or metal wire through a shock dowel. And nothing else. When using putty or other fixing mortar, you run the risk of ruining the ceiling when separating your mortar from the main ceiling.

Using impact dowels, nail the adjustable lamp posts.
Nail the support for the eaves. This can be a wooden beam nailed to the ceiling, or a special metal bar for the future level that will block it. Or, if there is a desire to make the cornice invisible, mount it according to the following scheme:

In principle, this is all we need to do before we start the installation.

Required tools and materials

So that there are no delays during the work, we need to prepare some equipment that is in any toolbox of the home master. You will need the following:

perforator with a pobedit drill with a diameter of 6 mm;
crosshead screwdriver;
a special plastic spatula with a rounded end for filling the web into a profile;
a hammer;
ladder;
level;
laser or hydraulic level;
chopping cord, if possible;
tape measure with a pencil and a marker;
hacksaw for metal;
construction or clerical knife.

We figured out the tool, and now we will list the material so that you do not forget anything when buying. So we need:

the actual canvas of the fabric ceiling is bought with a margin along all 4 edges, which should be at least 10 cm in size;
plastic, or better aluminum profile, and it doesn’t matter which mount we choose: for a clip or a glazing bead;
screws (with a flat, not sharp thread);
dowel plastic impact.

Also don't forget to purchase adjustable fixtures for fixtures. As for screws, I would like to note that impact dowels are used as standard. But if you want your ceiling to be impossible to tear off, then buy Sarmat screws. They look small and inconspicuous, but any of these three-centimeter screws driven into the ceiling can withstand a weight of more than 100 kg, this has been verified.

Step by step installation

In order to contemplate the long-awaited result in a few hours, you need to do the following.

We carry out those listed above.
We beat off the future level of the ceiling, that is, we put two risks in the corners on each of the walls. This is done with the help of a laser or a hydraulic level, or, at worst, with the help of a conventional one, only you have to tinker with it. Usually this distance is 10 cm, but you may have a different value. For example, if you are not going to use spotlights, it can be reduced to 5 cm. Well, or if you are making a hidden cornice system, then you will have to retreat at least 15 cm. In general, this is purely individual and is calculated based on local conditions.
We draw a line around the entire perimeter with a chopping cord.
Under the line, we begin to nail the profile. If necessary, cut it with a hacksaw for metal. If you use a branded and high-quality profile, then it already has holes for screws, and if it is cheaper, then they are not. Drilling should be at a maximum distance of 30 cm from each other. If you use Sarmatians, this distance can be increased to 50 cm. Do not risk nailing less often, it is better to be safe than to redo the entire ceiling later due to the fact that some part of the profile will move away from the wall. In extreme cases, you can use dowels with a hat and drill holes in the wall directly through the profile.
We proceed to the primary fastening of the canvas. To do this, we fix it at 4 corners of the room with a spatula into the groove. This can also be done with a large stationery binder - a black paper clip. They take two such clips, tie them with a cord about 30 cm long, attach one binder to the corner of the canvas, and the other to the profile, and so on in all 4 corners.
We start to fasten. This is done with a spatula, with which the canvas is carefully tucked into the profile clip.

Stretch ceilings have entered our lives so tightly that, perhaps, a good half of modern interiors cannot do without their installation. And if a rather expensive heat gun is required to stretch a ceiling made of PVC film, then fabric stretch ceilings can be made without such a bulky and expensive tool.

In this article I will tell you how I made a fabric stretch ceiling with my own hands in my apartment (and then at my mother-in-law, because she also liked it).

For this I needed:

Perforator
Level
dowels
self-tapping screws
screwdriver
Spatula special
Lighting cable
Hangers for mortgages
Mortgages
Terminal blocks
Saw and miter box (for angles of 45 degrees)
Baguette
Stretch ceiling fabric

A bit of theory

Read more about the types and properties of stretch ceilings.

A stretch ceiling is a fabric stretched over the entire area of the room, and fixed to the walls or ceiling by means of a baguette - a special profile into which the edge of the fabric is inserted.

Fabric and baguette, of course, need special ones. Fabric used by Descor. Baguette - wall, that is, the one that is attached to the wall, like this:

Ceiling installation

At the preparation stage, you need to determine where the lamps will be and stretch all the wires. You need to purchase these same fixtures (if not already) and install mortgages for them in order to determine the required minimum height above the ceiling.

The next step, setting up the profile, is the most time-consuming, messy, and frustrating, but that's about all there is to it). Using a level, I mark the horizontal on the walls in the plane of the future ceiling. Then I fix the baguette profile to the wall with self-tapping screws. You need to fasten it often, in increments of 7 - 10 cm, so that after stretching the fabric there is no gap between the baguette and the wall.

Well, you can move on to stretching the fabric. The fabric should be cut with a margin of 10 cm on each side. Unlike PVC ceilings, the fabric does not need any bumpers, edges, o-rings, etc. And, unlike PVC, we do not heat the fabric, and we start stretching not from the corners, but from the middle of the sides. It is more convenient, of course, to do the work together.

Starting from the middle of the first side, from the center to the corners, I fill the fabric into a baguette. It is convenient to do this (yes, in fact, it is necessary) with a special spatula. It does not tear the fabric, and the shape is designed for the operation of stretching the fabric into a baguette. I have a clipso spatula - very convenient (I paid 1350 rubles for it, but it's worth it).

After stretching, the excess fabric hangs along the wall. I turn to the opposite side, fix the middle there. Then I fill the middle part of the remaining two sides, and move on to the corners. I make sure that the fabric is stretched well, without “waves” and folds. They say that small folds can be straightened with a building hair dryer, but I did not check, but I did everything smoothly right away.

Where there are risers in the room, the fabric is cut to fit the pipes, and a plastic ring is installed to ennoble the edge of the hole.

When the entire ceiling is filled, I cut off the excess, leaving 1 cm for the final dressing. Then, with the same spatula, I fill the remaining 1 cm into a baguette.

This is what it looks like after refueling: