Independent installation of interior doors does not require complex actions. To solve this issue, basic knowledge and skills in the field of repair will be enough. Do-it-yourself installation of the door leaf allows you to save money, since you do not need to pay for the work of specialists.
Preparation for work
Installation of an interior door may be required during repair work. The procedure is not as scary as it might seem at first glance.
Required Tool
The installation of a new door is carried out in several stages. As a rule, it is necessary to remove the old canvas, and then proceed to install a new one. At the end of the work, it is required to fix the extensions (if necessary) and platbands. In the process of replacing the blade, various tools may be required - both manual and electric. Depending on the type of work performed and the accessories used, their list may differ.
The list of tools for replacing the door will depend on whether the box needs to be dismantled, as well as on the selected fittings.
Table: tools for interior doors
Drawing up a work plan
To replace an interior door, you should know how to measure the opening to order or purchase a product according to the specified parameters. Correct measurement involves the removal of the following indicators:
First of all, measure the width of the door. The standard opening in most cases is designed for a door of 80 cm. The easiest way to find out this size is to measure the distance between the vertical supports near the floor using a tape measure.
To obtain more accurate indicators, the measurement should be carried out even from above and in the center.
After determining the width, it is necessary to measure the height of the doorway. It is approximately 210 cm. To find out the exact value, you need to determine the distance from the floor to the top of the opening. If it is planned to finish the floor, it is recommended to install a new door after laying the material on the floor. In this case, it is not necessary to take into account the thickness of the finish or adjust the door components during installation. The doorway is measured in height at several points, but the main reference point is the center. Measurements are taken inside the passage.
To determine the height of the doorway, it is necessary to measure the distance from the floor to the top of the opening with a tape measure
The width of the opening is determined in a similar way, while taking into account that the door structure (loot) must be several centimeters smaller to ensure technological gaps. In order for the door to move freely, small gaps must also remain between it and the box around the perimeter.
The width of the opening is determined by the distance between the two sides of the passage
A gap of 5 mm is left between the door leaf and the hatch on all sides, and 12 mm from the bottom.
Table: dependence of the size of the canvas on the width of the doorway
An important parameter for the smooth installation of the door is the evenness of the doorway. Verticality is checked using a plumb or level. Measurements are taken in the center, left and right. Next, using a tape measure, measure the diagonals - the distances from the upper corner of each side to the opposite corner from below. They should be the same, or at least not have significant deviations.
In addition, before you start replacing interior doors, it is recommended to draw up a drawing on which to put down the measurement results. This will speed up the work.
How to choose a new door
When it comes to choosing a new door, it is sometimes difficult to make the right decision due to the variety of models. From the outside, the doors look perfect, but inside, serious flaws are possible. It's all about geometry. If the door leaf has deviations of at least 1–2 mm from the values obtained as a result of measurements, this may complicate its installation. To avoid wasting time on refinishing, it is recommended that you measure the canvas in the shop. It is also important to ensure that exactly the door from which the measurements were taken was loaded and delivered. The next step is to choose a door frame. Most often it comes with a door, but sometimes it is selected separately. The installation of the door structure can be simplified if you purchase all the elements from one manufacturer. Then it will not be necessary to customize one part for another.
Installing a door in an old box
Sometimes there are situations when you need to replace a door without a box. To do this, you will need to remove the old door leaf, adjust the new one according to the parameters, fix the fittings and install the product in place.
Removing the old door
The hinges on which the doors are attached are different. Therefore, the dismantling of the canvas can be done in different ways. The design of the canopy has two parts, one of which is fixed on the door, the second - on the loot. Some canopies have an axle fixed inside one of the parts. If you want to dismantle a door with such hinges, install a mount or some kind of lifting device from below and, with some effort, lift it up. The work is best done with an assistant who will support the door at the right time.
If the hinges can be separated along the axis, it is enough to lift the leaf slightly to remove the door
There are other hinge options where the axle goes into both parts of the canopy and is inserted through the top. To remove the door with such elements, you will need to remove the rods. The upper part of the pin has a kind of cap, which is pryed off with a screwdriver and they try to remove the element from the loop. It is best to start the procedure from the lower canopy, which will prevent the door from falling, as a result of which it is possible to tear out part of the hinge fixed on the loot. Damage should especially be avoided if the box is in a normal condition and its operation is planned in the future. After removing the door from the opening, the fittings are dismantled from it.
To remove the door from the hinges on a separate axis, it is necessary to remove the restrictive cap and remove the axis
Fitting a new canvas
Replacing a door without a frame involves fitting a new product to the old dimensions. To do this, the new product is placed horizontally, and the old door is placed on top. Both canvases are aligned along the upper and long side, where the handle will be attached. If the new canvas is large, you will need to remove the excess. A line is drawn with a pencil, according to which an unnecessary part is cut off from the new door with a circular saw.
The new door is adjusted to the size of the old one, cutting off the excess parts with a circular saw.
Hardware installation
After fitting the new product, it is necessary to mark the places where the hinges will be mounted. This is done in the following order:
- We put the old canvas on top of the new one, combine them with each other and, on the end side of the new door, make pencil marks at the places where the hinges are installed.
On the door leaf, we mark the location of the hinges with a pencil
- With a construction knife we make clear lines.
Clear marking lines can be made with a sharp construction knife
- We select the recesses for the tie-in of the loops with a chisel. To do this, we put the door on the end so that the side where the canopies will be located is facing up. We set the chisel on the line and strike the handle with a hammer. The sharpened edge of the tool should enter the material by no more than 2–4 mm, depending on the thickness of the metal of the hinges. These actions remove the extra layer of wood.
The recess for the loops is cut with a chisel
- We position the hinges so that the flat part is flush with the end part of the door.
- When the part clearly enters the selected recess, we drill nests through the holes in the canopy with a small-diameter drill for the convenience of screwing fasteners.
For the convenience of screwing self-tapping screws, we pre-drill holes with a small drill
- We fix the hinges to the door with self-tapping screws, after which we try on the canvas to the opening of the door frame. By fitting, you can determine the size of the gaps and how accurately the product fits into the passage.
Hinges to the door are fixed with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver
Video: tie-in loops with a chisel
After installing the hinges, you can start making seats for the locking mechanism and handles:
- We mark the location of the fittings on the old door. It is important that all measurements are accurate. Otherwise, the hole will have to be moved, which will spoil the look of the door. If an old locking mechanism is used, all the necessary parameters can be measured on the old door.
On the new door, we make markings for the lock according to its location on the old canvas
- We drill holes from the end with a pen drill.
From the end of the door, a hole for the lock is drilled with a pen drill
- To make holes on the main surface of the door, we use a ring-type saw of the required dimension.
On the main surface of the door, we make a hole for the lock with a hole saw
- After drilling, we install and fix the inside of the lock with a latch, and then we mount the handles.
After drilling the holes, install the lock and handles
Installing the door in the opening
The door is raised from the floor to the required height and a piece of board of the desired thickness is placed. After that, the canopies are combined and the pins are threaded into them, first into the upper part, and then into the lower one. When using loops of a different design, the suspension of the web will occur in a different way. The work is best done with an assistant, since the axles in the hinges installed on the loot must simultaneously fall into the holes located in the counterparts on the door.
Mounting the door with a hatch
If during the process of repairing an apartment or house it was revealed that not only the canvas, but also the box needed to be replaced, then it would be necessary to completely dismantle the door kit.
Removing the old box and door
To remove the old door frame, you will need the following list of tools:
- mount;
- a hammer;
- axe;
- hacksaw.
To dismantle the door hatch, you will need an ax, a hammer, a hacksaw and a mount
We remove the door frame in the following sequence:
- We remove the door.
- We dismantle the platbands. To do this, we drive the ax between the frame and the cashing and wring the casing from the box.
To remove the casing, it is enough to drive an ax between it and the box.
- In the resulting gap, you can see the nail with which the casing is attached. We start the ax under it and move the casing to the maximum. We move on to the next fastener and repeat the same steps. As a result, we remove the bar. To remove the remaining platbands, we carry out the same actions.
We bring the ax under the nail and move the bar away from the box
- We dismantle the door frame. It is fastened with nails 150 mm long. If it was possible to find the place of the lower fastener, we measure 20 cm upwards from it. Otherwise, we retreat from the floor 80 cm and saw the support.
We retreat 800 mm from the floor and saw the door frame
- We insert the ax above the cut into the gap between the wall and the loot and try to move the support inside the passage. Thus, we remove the nail that holds the rack at the top.
We move the vertical part of the support above the cut point with the help of a mount
- Dismantle the remaining lower part of the support in the same way.
- Remove the top of the box. To do this, we drive the ax between the wooden element and the opening, then move it down.
We dismantle the upper part of the box with an ax, pushing the beam down
- With the same actions, we dismantle the remaining vertical support.
Door frame assembly and installation
The door frame can be assembled from profiled timber or MDF. The assembly process is independent of the material and consists of the following steps:
- We measure the parameters of the opening. To install the box, you need to provide a gap of about 3 cm. Using the hydraulic level, we control the horizontal of the floor at the corners of the doorway.
- We trim the elements of the box with a circular saw.
Trimming of elements is carried out with a circular saw
- We mark the horizontal beam of the box, for which we install it on top of the door with a gap of 2–3 mm and make marks with a pencil.
- We put the door on its side and mark the position of the hinges. They are recommended to be installed, stepping back 200 mm from the top and bottom of the web. We measure this distance, attach the canopies to the marking and outline their position along the length.
We put the door on its side and mark the places where the hinges are to be installed.
- We mark the place where the loops on the loot will be located. To align the parts on the side of the door, we put a vertical frame support, measure a distance of 10 mm from below for the gap between the floor and the door itself.
To mark the position of the loop on the loot, you need to attach the element and outline it with a pencil
- We cut the elements of the box according to the marks.
- We make washed down the boards of the door frame at an angle of 45˚.
The door frame boards are sawn at an angle of 45˚
- We choose recesses for sheds with a chisel or milling cutter.
- To hide the heads of the self-tapping screws with which the loot will be fixed to the wall, we make recesses for them under the hinges. For these purposes, we use drills of a suitable diameter and make holes for sweat.
- To assemble the elements of the box with a 5 mm drill, we make holes in the right support and in the left corner of the upper bar. Holes must be drilled at an angle of 90˚ to the facing surface to ensure that the elements are pulled together when tightening the fasteners.
- We join all the details of the box with each other with self-tapping screws 40–50 mm long.
We connect the elements of the box with self-tapping screws 40-50 mm long
Video: how to assemble a door hatch
After connecting the frame elements, you can install it in the opening. To do this, perform the following steps:
- We carefully install the door frame in the passage and temporarily fix it with cardboard, which we place between the loot and the wall. With a level, we check the verticality from the side of the installation of the loops. To accurately level the door frame and adjust the gaps, wedges of wooden blocks with different angles will be required.
Wedges must be used to accurately position the box in the opening.
- We install wedges in those places where the loops will be located. Lutka fasteners will also be installed here. For a more reliable retention of the structure in the upper corners, we additionally hammer in a wedge. The box should be flush with the outside wall of the room. It is necessary to ensure that the wedging elements do not extend beyond the surface of the wall.
Wedges are installed at the hinge locations
- We fix the box through the prepared holes, while it is important that there are wedges in the fixation points that will not allow the box to deform.
- To ensure the stability of the structure, we perform partial foaming of the cracks between the wall. On the side of the lock, we use foam only in one place to fix the vertical post, since the support will still have to be moved.
To make the door frame more stable, the space between the wall is filled with mounting foam
- We fix the fittings to the door. Having placed a bar of the required thickness under the canvas, we first fasten the upper, and then the lower hinge to the door frame. We close the door and accurately expose the feigned side of the box using wedges.
Having placed a bar of the required thickness under the canvas, we first fasten the upper, and then the lower loop to the box
- We foam the gaps between the wall and the frame on each side.
To avoid swelling of the elements, it is recommended to place spacers between the vertical supports using any materials at hand.
Since door hatches are sometimes placed with a threshold, assembly of this design should also be considered. Box elements can be connected not only at an angle of 45˚, but also at 90˚. In addition, a right angle provides a more reliable connection.
Video: installing the door frame and canvas
All preliminary procedures until the moment of assembly have practically no differences from the installation of a door frame without a threshold. The rest of the process goes like this:
- We saw off a horizontal bar along a length equal to the width of the door, and add 6 mm for gaps on both sides of the box.
We saw off the horizontal part along the length, which is equal to the width of the door leaf plus 6 mm for gaps on both sides of the box
- On vertical supports, remove the protruding quarter. Also, do not forget about the gaps on both sides. To make a selection of a quarter, it is necessary to attach the upper transverse element to the end side of the vertical support and mark the width as accurately as possible. According to the mark, we saw off the protruding quarter with an electric jigsaw to a depth equal to the height of the quarter.
We remove the protruding quarter on the door leaf with an electric jigsaw
- We remove a quarter from the end side of the vertical supports with a chisel. We repeat the same procedure on all sides of the structure.
With the help of a chisel, we remove a quarter from the end side of the vertical supports
- We place all the components on a flat surface and connect the upper part. In the frame, it is recommended to pre-make holes with a small drill for self-tapping screws.
- Before assembling the threshold, we check the correctness of the dimensions and its location. For these purposes, we place the assembled frame without a threshold on a flat surface and try on the door. We mark the position of the loops, check the gaps. As long as the threshold is not set, the vertical supports can be moved slightly. Once again we measure the distance, make corrections if mistakes were made.
- We prepare seats on the door for hinges and other fittings.
We prepare seats on the door for hinges and other fittings
- We fix the threshold to the vertical supports with self-tapping screws and insert the box into the opening.
The threshold to the vertical supports is mounted on self-tapping screws
- We mount the box in the same way as in the case of installing a structure without a threshold.
Installation of extensions
If the wall is thicker than the width of the loot, door extensions are used that allow you to close the wall and visually increase the size of the door frame. To install these elements, you will need to prepare the following list:
- level;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- hacksaw or jigsaw;
- plane;
- a hammer;
- sharp knife;
- mounting foam;
- fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails or "liquid nails");
- trim strips.
Additional strips can be installed in a groove and without a groove, so it would be logical to consider both options.
Groove installation
If it is planned to use extensions, then the frame for the door leaf is best purchased with a special slot.
The presence of a groove in the door frame will facilitate the installation of extensions
Its presence will speed up the installation process, and will also allow you to move the additional bar, which will significantly increase the installation accuracy. The process consists of the following steps:
- We proceed to the installation of the elements after fixing the door frame in the aisle. We measure the distance from the frame to the edge of the wall. Slopes must be measured separately and in different places. To the resulting width, add the depth of the slot in the vertical support. The final value will determine the width of the extension.
It is convenient to take measurements with a construction square
- With an electric jigsaw, we cut the additional bar to the desired size.
Additional strips are bought with a margin in width, and an exact fit is made during the installation process
- We insert the strips into the grooves of the box.
We insert additional strips into a special groove in the loot
- The dobor, which is located horizontally on top, is laid on the side elements.
The upper dobor lies on the side at a right angle
- Use masking tape to temporarily fix the door panels.
- The voids that have formed between the extension and the wall are sealed with mounting foam. To avoid extrusion of the planks, we use spacers between them.
To prevent the extensions from being squeezed out with foam, it is necessary to install spacers
- When the foam hardens, remove everything that came out with a knife.
After the foam has hardened, all excess is removed with a knife.
Grooveless installation
If there is no special groove for extensions in the elements of the box, their fastening is carried out end-to-end. With this installation, accurate measurements are required, as well as careful fitting of the strips. We perform the installation in the following order:
- We measure the width of the slopes.
To determine the size of the extensions, it is necessary to measure the width of the slopes
- We make extensions of the desired width. If after cutting the width turned out to be slightly larger, we remove the excess with a planer.
- We paste over the cuts with an edge tape, heating the edge with an iron until the glue melts and the tape firmly sticks to the bar.
To make the edges of the nails sharp, we cut the hats with side cutters
- We put the additions in place. First, we mount the vertical element, pressing it tightly at the bottom and tapping with a hammer to insert the nail into the vertical support of the box. Then we attach the middle and upper part. It is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps between the elements and the frame.
- We put the transverse bar on top of the vertical ones, measure the right angle and nail it with a hammer to the top of the box.
Horizontal extension is installed on top of vertical elements
- We also blow out the gaps between the planks and the wall with foam.
Video: installation of door extensions
Installation of platbands
When the extensions are fixed, and the mounting foam has hardened, the platbands are mounted.
Platbands are the decorative finishing of a doorway representing the figured pro-thinned-out laid on levels.
To install the platbands, perform the following steps:
- We measure the height of the side elements. We also add the width of the platband in the upper part to the height of the doorway.
The side bar should be above the border of the doorway by the width of the trim in the upper part
- Cut off the top of the right casing at an angle of 45˚. We do this so that the edge of the bar adjacent to the extension is shorter. At the same angle, but only in a mirror image, we saw down the left plank.
The markup of the top element is best done in place.
- We saw down the casing from both ends at an angle of 45˚.
The ends of the platband are sawn in a mirror image
- We join the cashing elements and fix them with 5-6 nails for vertical strips and 2-3 for horizontal.
It is advisable to bite off the hats of the nails to make them inconspicuous.
When using self-tapping screws as fasteners, you will need to drill holes for the cap, and after screwing them, hide the heads with decorative plugs.
When installing platbands from below, it is not necessary to leave a gap under the plinth
The lower part of the platbands rests on the floor, while there is no need to leave a gap under the plinth.
Video: how to install platbands
You can replace the interior door yourself, but it is better to do this with an assistant. Professionals for such work use a large set of tools. However, for a one-time installation, you can get by with a simple list consisting of a screwdriver, a hammer and a chisel with a level. Following the step-by-step instructions, it will be much easier to replace the door, both individually and together with the frame.
Sections of the article:
Among the first "ancestors" of modern doors were simple products that resembled shutters at the entrance to the premises. Maybe the owners of ancient dwellings were sure that they also installed doors. But after hinges were invented and began to be used in construction, the installation process changed significantly.
Today, entrance, as well as interior door structures are installed once, but for decades. In order to install the door structure, many people invite professional carpenters. Meanwhile, the installation of interior doors is not at all a difficult, but also an exciting task, which, moreover, allows you to save a lot. You only need to know about some technological features of the work and have a bit of patience.
Brief overview of upcoming work
The door is a simple technical product, but not a simple shield made of wood or other materials that closes the doorway. The interior door leaf should open and close without excessive effort, be securely fixed, withstand a sharp slam, while not falling apart. In order for the door structure to reliably serve its owner, it will be necessary to accurately perform installation work.
Do-it-yourself installation of an interior door begins with the assembly of the door frame - this is its supporting base. Then it is necessary to equip the structure with all the necessary fittings - someone does it right away, something can be done after the installation work has been completed, however, in order to install the door, at least fixed hinges will be needed. Preliminary it is required to carry out preparatory work on the opening, to perform the necessary measurements. Only after that the box will ideally match the dimensions of your opening. At the last stage of work, the canvas is hung and trimmed with platbands.
That's the whole brief instruction for installing interior doors with your own hands.
Walkthrough
Now we will analyze each stage in order, but it should be noted that modern doors are usually sold completely assembled. Only occasionally does the construction market offer a "constructor" that you will need to assemble yourself.
Preparing the doorway
So, if an old door leaf is installed in the opening, it must be removed. It is recommended to do this with a crowbar - do not make too sudden movements and make great efforts. First of all, the platbands are removed, and then the old canvas is carefully removed from the hinges. With the help of the same crowbar, the box is dismantled - so that it succumbs faster, you can file it in different places. Very often, in multi-storey buildings, the box is cemented - in this case, it is recommended to simply knock out the mortar with a hammer.
Usually, experts advise plastering slopes to facilitate the installation of interior doors. But in principle, this step is optional - all potholes will be covered with platbands. After the completion of construction work, garbage is removed and you can proceed to the next stage - this is the measurement of the opening.
Taking measurements
In most homes, doorways have jagged edges, so measurements are taken in different places, and then the smallest of the obtained values \u200b\u200bis used.
When taking dimensions, it is very important to take into account the gap between the box and the opening. According to building codes, it should be from 10 to 15 mm. Installation work is recommended to be carried out after the laying of the finishing floor coverings is completed, however, if the floor has not yet been made, then the gap between the door and the floor should be taken into account (taking into account the height of the floor covering). The free movement of the door leaf depends on the height of the floor. Usually the gap between the canvas and the floor covering is no more than 10 mm.
Experts recommend purchasing a door leaf only after the dimensions of the opening have been taken, but this is not always the case. But what if there is already a door, and the opening is too large or small? And there is a solution for this problem. Everything is very simple - if the opening is too small, a puncher will help the home master. A wooden beam will help to make the opening smaller.
How to fasten extensions to narrow the doorway
So, the extensions will help narrow the width of the opening. You can do without them, but then you have to spend a lot of mortar on creating slopes, because extensions for this task are the best option.
As additional elements, strips of the same color as the door leaf with the frame are used. The thickness of such strips is usually from 8 to 12 mm. When installed, they represent a failure portal, the edges of which exactly coincide with the edges of the opening.
The installation of these elements is carried out as follows. I use a cutter or a chisel in the door frame to make a quarter with a size of 10 × 10 or 8 × 8 mm - this size depends on the thickness of the additional lath. It is done only along the outer contour of the box. The slats are cut to height. A box is installed in the opening, then it is fixed, and then additional strips are inserted into the quarters - they are fixed to the wall of the opening with dowels and self-tapping screws.
Installing the door frame in the opening
Here it is worth mentioning one trick. With its help, independent installation of door blocks is carried out quickly and efficiently. To do this, you need to make a very simple device. So, rails are attached across the box - they need two pieces from the bottom and top. These rails will help to correctly position the block relative to the plane of the wall. In order to avoid damage to the box, special pads can be used to fix the rails. It is necessary to install these linings only when the gaps are already fully set and only on the opening side. To fix the gaps, you can use cardboard folded several times.
Also, in order to correctly expose the door, you can use wedges. They are hammered between the box and the wall - by hitting the wedges, they adjust the position of the block vertically and horizontally. After that, the box can be fixed. Experts recommend using wood of no less density for wedges than the door block itself.
Canvas hanging
So, when the box is installed, you can proceed to the installation of the canvas. It all depends on the design of the hinges - they are different on the interior doors, hence the different hanging technology. It is better to hang the canvas with someone's help. After this step, the initial part of the work can be considered completed, but there are several stages left before the full installation of interior doors is completed.
Fixing the door block
The gaps between the opening and the door unit are usually filled with mounting space. This allows not only to fix the door frame, but also to create additional heat and sound insulation. Foam completely fills all small cracks and other defects.
This material is easy to use and very easy to apply on any type of surface. Experts recommend pre-moistening the end of the opening and the box with water - this will improve the polymerization of the foam and its adhesion to the wall and wood.
The peculiarity of this foam is that it significantly increases its size - if it is overabundant, the door block can be deformed. But if spacers and cardboard were installed between it and the wall during the installation of the box, this should protect the canvas and the block from deformation. Before starting work with foam, the cylinder is shaken for one minute. The door must be closed.
In order to reduce the possible risk of deformations, it is better to carry out the process of filling the gaps with foam in two stages. At the first stage, the material is applied pointwise, and after about 3 hours, the remaining voids are filled. Excess foam must be removed after curing.
If the gap between the block and the opening is very narrow, then the cylinder tube must be flattened - this will work much more conveniently and efficiently. Large gaps are laid with various suitable objects, and only then filled with foam. Vertical gaps are filled first from the bottom, and then you need to move up - so the foam can create the necessary support for itself.
This is how interior doors are installed. In general, it will not be difficult, and if you are not confident in your abilities, you can watch a video that tells about all the nuances of the installation work.
Installation of platbands, installation of accessories
This is the very last step. First of all, the platband is cut in height, the upper edges are sawn at an angle of 45 °. For a horizontal element, such trimming is performed on both sides. You can fix the platbands with small nails or mounting glue.
At the very end, fittings are installed - these are handles, locking parts of locks, latches, stops, closers. There are a lot of different useful details for interior doors that can make their operation more comfortable.
All work on the installation of interior doors with your own hands can be done in one day. The total time depends on the skills of the home master, as well as on how quickly certain materials for installation dry. These instructions can be used to install various types of doors, including plastic ones. The only difference is in the tools used and the materials of the door leaf itself.
We will tell you how to properly install an interior door. You will learn about the intricacies of choosing components and how you can understand the professionalism of the master. Interior doors must stand in their original packaging for at least 5 days in the room in which they will be installed.
Preparing boards for the door frame
To begin with, we will check the height and width of the opening and make sure that the doors with the frame will easily enter them.
Using a laser level, we estimate the difference in floor height on each side of the doorway. In our case, it was 2 mm, and we need to take this distance into account when making the door frame. Let's say a few words about the wizard's tool:
For a quality installation, we can not do with one hammer and chisel. We need a circular saw with a turntable. Now with its help we will trim the door frame blanks. It would be very difficult to cut a beautifully veneered blank with a conventional hacksaw. Let's start marking the door frame. With a sharp knife, mark the places for trimming the upper part.
The plate allows you to immediately take into account the gap of the door in the box. Usually it is 2-3 mm. In the arsenal of a real master, there should be such a device that allows you to keep the door in a vertical position:
We make a serif of places for loops. Usually it is 20-25 cm from the edge.
We put one of the boards of the door frame on the door and set the bottom gap. Usually it is 8-10 mm. As a rule, interior doors are assembled without thresholds. With a sharp knife, we make notches for the hinges on the board of the door frame. Mark the top edge of the board. We lay the left and right boards of the door frame together, set a slight shift of a few millimeters to compensate for the difference in floor height marked by the level.
In the places of subsequent cutting of the door frame boards, we need to carefully remove the wrapped veneer with a chisel. If this is not done, then when cutting on the machine, the board will stand up skewed and we will not be able to perform a perfect gash at 45 °. We install the board on the saw machine, and turn the saw itself for sawing at 45 °.
The chipped veneer board fits snugly against the machine at the rear. Carefully cut at 45°. Three parts of the door frame are ready:
We mark the loops. This process has one feature - the loop is installed with the logo up.
Marks for hinges on the board of the door frame are best done with a sharp knife. If you are not confident, do it with a pencil, but remember that it has a certain thickness, which can give an error. When using a knife, notches are applied at an angle towards the future sample. This will allow you to tightly and beautifully install the hinges in the future.
Another necessary tool for the master is a manual milling machine. We set the sample width to the width of the loop. The sampling depth is adjusted according to the thickness of the loop. With the help of a manual milling machine, work on making samples in the door frame board is completed in a minute.
A properly adjusted cutter will not remove anything superfluous:
During work, the master must pay attention to his extreme notches and not go beyond them. The same work done with a chisel and a hammer will not always be neat, and it will also take more time.
Since the loops have rectangular edges, we need to remove the roundness at the corners with a chisel. To do this, we will make two or three notches in the corners. So we are guaranteed to remove the excess and not touch the wood behind the sample. This work must be done carefully and slowly. It depends on it how beautiful the hinges in the door frame will look.
An important point - the loop must enter the sample with effort. It is recommended that before screwing the hinge, drill holes of a smaller diameter compared to the screws. In order not to drill through the floor, place a stop under the door frame board.
We drill holes for the second loop.
Door frame installation
Now we need to make holes for the screws with which we will fasten the door frame from the hinge side.
There is a rule here: the holes are made in the middle of the longitudinal and transverse axis, that is, for the upper loop they should be made a little lower, and for the lower loop a little higher. By this we achieve uniform fastening of the box to the doorway. The recess should be deep enough so that the twisted screw does not interfere with the installation of the hinges.
We will make potai in places where we will fasten the elements of the door frame to each other. Depending on the thickness of the bar of the box, we will make a sweat either higher or lower.
The main rule is that the sweat is performed at an angle of 90 ° with respect to the cut. In the upper element of the door frame, we sew in the center. Thus, the fastening of the door frame will be carried out on each side in three places.
We twist the wood screws into the elements of the box. Here it is important to accurately combine the parts and prevent their mutual displacement. If everything is done correctly, we will get the perfect angle. On the other hand, we will perform the same operations.
We will install the assembled box in the doorway, and so that the box does not fall, we will put a few pieces of cardboard. Set the laser level and check the verticality of the door frame from the side of the hinges.
Now we need wedges with which we will adjust the door gap and level the box. They can be made from scraps of box bars using a circular saw. First of all, we need to install wedges in places where we will fasten the door frame to the walls.
Additionally, we hammer one wedge into each of the upper corners of the box. We check the verticality of the installation with a laser level. If necessary, knock out or change the wedges.
Expose the door frame should be flush with the outer wall of the room. We carry out the fastening of the box through the made sweat in the loops.
Be sure to install wedges in places where we fasten the box. They should stay there forever. The door frame on the hinged side is fixed in two places and has three wedges. But the feigned side of the box has only one wedge on top. We will exhibit it after hanging the door. Do not forget to use the level to check the horizontal installation of the box. Since we took into account the unevenness of the floor when trimming the box bars, our level now shows the horizon.
While we are working on the door leaf, the pre-installed door frame must be partially foamed.
It takes some time for the foam to set a little before we hang the doors. First, the foam is applied in small portions from the inside of the room. The feigned part of the door frame is partially foamed, in a dashed way. This is necessary so that we have the opportunity to move the feigned part of the door frame, aligning it with the door leaf. Too much mounting foam should not be laid.
Installation of door hardware
Now the door is again placed on a special stand. We will be installing door hardware.
And again we mark the hinges, but already on the door leaf. We make marks with a sharp knife at an angle with respect to the loops. Using a milling machine, we carry out sampling under the hinges on the door leaf.
We also align the corners with a chisel. We get the perfect selection for the hinges in the door leaf. It is ideal because our loop is inserted inside with force, which means that there will be no gaps.
Consider how to properly drill holes for screws.
Drilling begins at an angle, leaning on the edge of the loop, then the drill is set vertically, and we drill exactly in the center. This simple technique makes it easy to drill holes in the center of the hinges. We apply the markup for installing the door latch. Usually it falls in the middle of the door.
When drilling a hole for the latch, be careful not to damage the excess veneer. To do this, set the rotation of the drill counterclockwise and apply a central marking with a drill. So the drill will not jump off and tear the adjacent veneer. Then we set the drill to normal drilling mode and drill the required hole. The depth of drilling can be adjusted by a special marker that you put on the drill. The marker in this case is the usual electrical tape.
The hole is ready, and we insert the latch into it.
Please note that the diameter of the hole must exceed the internal thickness of the latch. Mark with a knife.
And again we will use the milling machine, then with a wide chisel we will sample the corners.
As usual, we will make a few notches, and then clean up the corners. Now insert the latch and fasten it with screws.
Door leaf installation
Our foam has partially set. Now it will provide us with the elastic state of the box. We install a stop under the door and twist the upper loop.
A lever may be required to set the bottom hinge well. Don't forget to put a stop under it.
When the loop has exactly entered the groove, you can screw it onto two screws. In a suspended state, the vertical installation of the doors is checked.
Let's check the operation of the door frame seal. If it squeaks, coat it with a small amount of VD-40. We proceed to the alignment of the feigned side of the door frame. When the door is hung, we can appreciate how perfect the door leaf is. And right now we have the opportunity to align the feigned part of the box with the door. As in the previous case, we align this part of the box with wedges.
Slightly hardened polyurethane foam allows you to smoothly shift the feigned part of the box in one direction or another. After finishing the alignment, mark the center of the latch on the feigned bar of the box. When choosing door latches, give preference to those that have a ledge on the counterpart. With it, you can adjust the strength of the adjoining doors.
Having made a mark, we use the milling machine again.
This time we are making a recess for the door latch.
If necessary, the rounded edges can be corrected with a chisel. We drill the attachment points of the mating part of the latch and fasten it with screws.
Now we will drill a hole in this cavity for the third fixing screw. Regardless of whether an anchor bolt or self-tapping screw is used, it will be hidden inside this cavity. It is also necessary to install an additional wedge in this place.
We twist the self-tapping screw, which will fix the feigned part of the box through the drywall to the inner bar of the load-bearing wall.
Installation of door handles
Now you can collect door handles. Tighten the inner pin on one of the handles with a hexagon.
After inserting the handle, fix it with three self-tapping screws.
Insert the handle on the other side and do the same. Let's check the operation of the handle.
Finishing the assembly of the handle, we fix the second handle with a hexagon. We put on decorative caps on each side.
Now is the time to apply the foam between the wall and the door frame on the outside of the door. Do not forget to tighten the remaining screws into the door hinges.
Installation of extensions
The foam on the inside of the doors has already dried, this will allow us to move on to the next stage of installing the doors.
We need to install extensions from the inside of the room.
We determine the distance by choosing the most protruding part of the wall. Having made measurements from above and below, we will choose the largest. If there is a rounding in the inner groove of the box, it must be carefully cut with a knife. This will allow you to put the extension in this groove quite tightly without gaps.
We perform this operation on the other side. If the foam sticks out, it must be slightly cut off.
Now a circular saw with a top table is very useful to us. Having set the emphasis to a given width, we ideally cut the extension boards. Trim off the bottom edge.
We place the dobor board, resting it on the upper groove of the door frame.
We'll do the same on the other side. And again, we cut the extension boards to the final dimensions.
The groove of the door frame, into which we insert the extensions, is cleaned of foam with a small piece of board. We will do this around the entire perimeter of the door frame.
Install the dobor boards in the freed groove. To fix the extension, it is necessary to wedge it in the upper corners of the door frame.
Using a level or a straight board, it is necessary to ensure that the extension is either flush with the wall, or, if the wall is uneven, protrudes slightly.
The extension will hold perfectly if it is fixed with mounting foam. In this case, there is no need to make holes and fix it with screws to the wall. As the foam expands and hardens, it can be cut flush with the wall.
So, we installed the extensions and foamed them with mounting foam to fix them. If you do everything according to this technology, then the door can be used in 20 minutes. We just have to wait for the foam to completely harden, cut it off, plaster and level the sections of the wall adjacent to the door, glue the wallpaper or paint the walls, and only then nail the casing. When plastering a doorway, wet plaster should not be allowed to come into contact with the door frame. Use masking tape here, remove the plaster immediately. To make the door fit more tightly, bend the protrusion on the mating part of the latch.
All rights to the video belong to: DoHow
Each dwelling has doors. Interroom structures serve to divide space into zones. The main function of the entrance doors is to protect the premises from intruders. Sooner or later there comes a time when the structures need to be replaced. In some cases, during the repair process, it becomes necessary to install a new door where it was not. In order to save money, many owners decide to carry out the installation themselves. Next, we will figure out how to install the door with your own hands.
Manufacturers today offer various models of doors. Often almost all the details go separately. The structure will need to be assembled on site. When purchasing a door, you should pay attention to the quality of the seal. Experts recommend choosing one that is softer. So closing will not be accompanied by a thud. It is better to purchase accessories in accordance with the color of the door. Shop assistants can help with this. As for the latch, preference should be given to the part that has a protrusion on the opposite side. With its help, the adjunction of the web is regulated.
Training
Doors should be left unpacked indoors for at least five days before being installed. At the same time, it is necessary that the room has normal humidity and temperature. To carry out the work, you will need the following tools: a screwdriver, a chisel, a hammer, a circular saw. Be sure to prepare a level, preferably a laser one. With it, the door frame will be aligned.
Assembly
Consider how to install a wooden door. First you need to make markings in the opening and determine the position of the upper bar. Here you should remember to leave a gap. The optimal distance between the box and the wall is 2-3 mm. If it is larger, then the structure will hang out, and if it is less, it will close with effort. The box pieces will need to be cut to height. This takes into account the difference in the floor. Racks and the top crossbar are cut down at 45 degrees from the edges and connected. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. In the process of work, you need to ensure that there is no displacement in the corners. The parts of the box must be joined flush. After that, markings are made for loops and selection in the side stand.
Box mounting
The assembled structure is inserted into the opening. Small planks (wedges) should be placed between the top beam and the ceiling. Then we perform the following steps:
- From the side and front, we check the vertical position of the structure.
- We put wedges on the fasteners to the wall (they must be of the appropriate size).
- We fix the hinged side of the box.
- We foam the gap from the inside. The feigned part is processed pointwise - it will need to be aligned later.
- Finally, with the help of a level, we check the horizontality of the top element.
Hardware installation
Before installing the doors, you should fix the fittings. To do this, the canvas is placed on the edge. It will be more convenient to use a special stand. On the surface, areas are marked where the latch and hinges will stand. The first is placed in the center. The loops will be at a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge of the canvas (top and bottom). On a milling machine (manual), the cutter is set according to the height (width) of the elements and a selection is made. Next, the corners are aligned with a 90 degree chisel. The latch and hinges are fixed with screws. Make holes for fasteners first.
We insert the canvas
Many do not know how to properly install the door. To facilitate the process, a number of recommendations should be taken into account. You need to start by "hanging" the canvas. An emphasis is placed under the door. Next, attach the loops. After their alignment, 2 screws are screwed into each element, no more. Then you need to check the closing of the canvas and the gaps. If there are errors, they are eliminated. Then the feigned side is aligned. It often happens that the canvas has a small marriage. For example, it may be slightly twisted in the plane. In this regard, you should not rush to screw the box on both sides. Otherwise, there will be a gap when closing. After closing the door, you should start leveling the box.
When installing, make sure that the box does not extend beyond the outer wall of the room. Even if the canvas is crooked, it should not open spontaneously. In other words, the door should not be tilted. In this case, one side of the box should be moved. If the skew is too strong, the door will have to be changed, since even the cashiers will not be able to disguise the defect.
Final stage
After leveling is completed, it is necessary to drive a wedge in the latch installation area. To do this, make a notch on the bar and then a selection under the "tongue". A hole is drilled here for a hidden fastener of the door frame. Next, the counter element of the latch is screwed. After fixing - if necessary - the contact force is adjusted by pressing / pressing the tongue.
Variations
The owners of many apartments instead of traditional swing doors choose a sliding door (how to install it will be described below). It must be said that this option allows you to significantly save space. In small apartments, the ideal solution for zoning a room is the compartment door. How to install such a structure? Let's discuss the main recommendations.
First stage
As with other types of structures, before installing a sliding door, it is necessary to prepare an opening. It is cleaned of dust and dirt, then markup is made. Frame elements will already be installed on it.
Mounting guides
When using the lower element, it should be deepened into the floor, leveled with a level and fixed. Next, the upper guide is installed along the control line. During installation, the horizontal position must be observed. The top element is placed at a height equal to the size of the canvas plus 15-20 mm for gaps. You can check the horizontal position using a level. The length of the guide is equal to twice the width of the canvas with an increase of 4-5 cm. This margin will ensure the normal course of the door. As a rule, the guide is attached using brackets.
Canvas installation
How to install the door correctly? First of all, the necessary elements should be attached to the canvas itself. You can then make a setting to adjust the levels. This work is best done with an assistant. It will support the web in the process of inserting carriages with rollers into the groove. If a partition door is mounted, and the guide is installed from one wall to another, the carriages must be brought into the groove in advance. For this, the guide has a window. In this case, the fixation of the web will be reduced to joining the holders on it and the anchor, which moves away from the carriage.
Limiters and closers
After installing the door leaf, the plugs should be fixed. Limiters can be made in the form of studs or a guide profile. Plugs are recommended to be purchased with special plastic or rubber stops.
Platbands and dobors
Before installation, special brackets must be screwed to the wall. They can also be fixed on the rail with latches. In the latter case, the fastener will not be visible on the outside. Then the restrictive structure is fixed. The canvas will rest against it when closing. As a limiter, you can use a timber with a finish or a profile that is purchased along with other fittings. It is installed strictly vertically. Here the counterpart of the locking mechanism (locking element) will be fixed.
How to install a metal door
To begin with, it should be noted that such structures are used to protect the house from intruders. And quite often, the safety of a home directly depends on the quality of installation. Consider how to install the front door.
The main stages of installation
Before installing the doors, you should familiarize yourself with the process diagram. The work can be divided into three stages:
- Dismantling of the old structure.
- Opening preparation. Before installing the doors, you should check for gaps between the frame and the opening. The wall surface must be clean and dry.
- Direct installation. First, holes for fasteners are drilled in the opening. The door frame is fixed with anchors. The more there are, the better. Anchors should go deep into the wall by at least 20 cm. Fastening is carried out around the entire perimeter of the box.
Working process
Fasteners fixing the box should be located as far as possible from the outside of the wall. In the process of fixing it is necessary to use wooden wedges. They should be slightly larger than the gap between the opening and the structure. When installing the wedges in the side racks, it is necessary to monitor the invariance of the distance between the gaps. If the size of the gaps changes, you will have to re-align. The verticality of the structure is checked using a plumb line. Next, to insert the anchors, you need to drill holes. Their diameter is about 15, and their depth is about 200 mm. Anchors are inserted into the holes, with which, in fact, the box is fixed. Next, you need to hang the canvas itself. It is recommended to lubricate the hinges first. After installing the canvas, the gaps should be foamed. Before this, you need to moisten the surface of the wall with water - for better adhesion. A day after the mounting foam has dried, the eyes should be plastered.
- Opening measurement
- Door selection
- Step 3: assemble the box
- Step 4: markup for hinges
- Step 5: Installing the box
- Step 6: Secure
- Step 7: attach the hinges
- Step 8: Hanging and Cladding
Replacing interior doors is not as time-consuming and complicated as it seems. You can fill a double or single opening yourself without the help of a specialist. Of course, you will not save time, but you will save money and acquire new skills when repairing an apartment or house.
How to install an interior door: in this article we will tell you how to choose a good door leaf, what the block for filling the opening consists of and how to mount it.
Opening measurement
Making a mistake at the stage of measuring the doorway is unacceptable: if you purchase a system of large dimensions, you will not be able to insert it, and if you purchase smaller ones, you will not be able to fix it well.
It is better to measure the doorway after dismantling the old door, when there is access to a bare wall. In this way, you can assess the situation and make the right measurements. Removing them is simple: take a tape measure and determine the height and width of the entrance along the wall in the narrowest place (relevant for buildings where the vertical structure is poorly observed). With this data, go to the store behind a brand new door.
There is no need to manufacture a product according to individual sizes: in houses with apartments, builders initially lay standard openings, and fillings for them are always available on the open market.
Interior doors in a private wooden house may differ from the standard ones, then you will have to order new ones and wait for them to be made.
Door selection
The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a canvas and a box is the material of their manufacture.
The ideal option is to purchase a box and a canvas from the same material. You should not give preference to wood fiber board, doors made of it are short-lived, they are installed at construction sites so that new owners can replace them with permanent ones made of more durable materials. Ideally, you should get a solid array as a door filling; to reduce the cost, the canvas can be replaced with MDF, which is also a durable raw material for making a cheaper door frame.
Additional slats and platbands can be made of fiberboard, wood or MDF. They do not carry loads, they only decorate gaps and mask connections.
Double doors are more often chosen for large rooms and halls, single-leaf blocks are installed in bedrooms and kitchens. In any case, the size of the box and the number of sheets are determined by the size of the opening.
Step-by-step instructions for installing from scratch
Installing interior doors with your own hands will not take much time, just stock up on the right tool, purchase the necessary material and you can get to work. Follow the detailed step-by-step instructions and you are guaranteed success.
This plan is valid for the installation of swing doors, sliding doors are mounted a little differently, but in a similar way.
Step 1: prepare the tool and material
To install an interior door you will need:
- Drill or perforator;
- Drills for 3 and 4 mm for wood;
- Drills 4 and 6 mm for concrete;
- Saw;
- Screwdriver;
- wood screws;
- Level / plumb;
- Mounting foam;
- Roulette;
- Pencil.
In addition, a door block must be purchased in advance.
Step 2: determine the tactics of action
Installation of wooden doors is carried out according to the standard scheme shown in the photo.
- door frame;
- door leaf;
- Nail/screw;
- Mounting foam.
First, we will assemble the box, then insert it into the opening and hang the door.
Step 3: assemble the box
There are 2 options for assembling the box under the canvas.
To understand whether the extra parts of the tree are cut correctly, assemble the box on the floor like a mosaic: everything should fit perfectly. Then we fix the strips on the screws from the side of the wall.
For the threshold, you also need to determine the place by attaching a canvas to the box assembled along the upper part. Step back 2.5 mm from it and take a risk. At this mark, attach the lower bar - the threshold.
Step 4: markup for hinges
At the stage of assembling the box, it is worth determining the attachment points for the hinges. To do this, on the side stand, measure 20-25 cm from the top and bottom, attach loops and make risks with a knife or pencil. Screw the product with self-tapping screws, thereby determining the future location of the loop, which will facilitate its fastening. Now insert the canvas, measure the gaps to the side edges and make risks on the canvas. In the same way, make several fasteners, so as not to lose their location later.
Remove the screws and the loop, they will need to be fixed after mounting the box in the opening.
The box is ready for installation. A more detailed process is demonstrated by the author of the video.
Step 5: Installing the box
Now do-it-yourself door installation is suitable, and it begins with the installation of the assembled box. To do this, you need to put the structure on the threshold and align the vertical. For verification, use a plumb line and a level. To prevent the box from falling during the verification, fix it with spacers or temporary wedges from wood scraps.
Now you can check the canvas: will it open or not. To do this, insert it into the installed box, focusing on a flat wall. If the opening does not occur or is not fully realized, it may be necessary to correct the struts and adjust the position of the post and cross bars.
If you managed to install everything correctly and the canvas fits well into place, you can fix the box. How to do it:
- On the sides of the upper crossbar, wedges are driven in, then over its fastening to the uprights;
- Wedges are driven in along the entire height of the opening, constantly checking the evenness of the installation and the absence of displacements in any plane.
Step 6: Secure
The delivered and verified box must be finally fixed so that it can take on the canvas. There are 2 solutions:
- Screw the box to the side walls with screws. This is a reliable way, for its implementation a few screws or wood screws are enough. Choose inconspicuous attachment points, mainly use the areas under the door hinges and under the lock plate. They take a concrete block and make a hole for a screw. Now tighten the fastener so that its cap does not remain above the plane of the tree. If this amount of fasteners is not enough, you can drill through holes in other places and also plant self-tapping screws, the caps of which are covered with plugs to match the surface.
- The second way is to use hidden plates. A feature of the method is the absence of the need to drill the box and the wall.
After that, fill the space between the opening and the box with mounting foam for 2/3 of the total thickness. To prevent the structure from being squeezed out, install spacers inside the passage contour for the duration of the foam polymerization.
Step 7: attach the hinges
With the correct installation of interior doors, the hinges are fixed only before the direct hanging of the canvas. Screw the parts for the box to the previously marked places, repeat the steps for the canvas.
Step 8: Hanging and Cladding
The most difficult part is over, now you can hang the canvas and close the joints with platbands. How to install an interior door clearly tells the master in the video.
As you can see, it is quite possible to replace or install a new interior door on your own, following a clear procedure. The technology is described in detail and given in the accompanying videos, so it will not be difficult to understand the issue.