Each master is faced with the problem of how and on what to fix the assembled doors. To install the finished door block, it is possible to use various installation methods. Knowing these installation options, you can easily choose the right one for yourself. You will need a small set of tools such as a drill, hammer, level, screwdriver and hammer. Also, to directly fix the box in the opening, you need fasteners and mounting foam. Depending on where you need to fix the door block, you may need self-tapping screws, dowels, anchors.
The main stages of installing a door block
At the very beginning, the old door frame is dismantled. It can be carried out using a nail puller (crowbar), having previously made cuts on both sides of each vertical bar, in order to then squeeze this structure from the opening. If anchor bolts were used during the installation of the old box, nails that cannot be unscrewed can be cut off using a grinder.
Before installing the interior door frame, it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account the differences in the level of the walls and floor. The door frame must be positioned so that if there are irregularities, the wall box does not deepen in the opening. This is necessary to fit the door trim. In order to correctly position the door frame, you should use the building level and take into account all the opening errors.
First, the installations are rigidly fixed in the opening, in order to achieve the initial level of rigidity, wedges are used. After completing the fixing work, it is worth re-checking the correct location of the level so that the box is level with the door.
Working with mounting foam
It is important to know that the foam that is designed for the gun is much better and more convenient to use due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small expansion coefficient, it hardens much faster. Foam, which is fed with a straw in a large amount, it will expand longer. Before starting work, it is better to cover the door leaf with masking tape and film, because the foam is difficult to wash. It is important to know that you need to start foaming with the fixation of individual small sections. After 30 minutes, you can already go through the entire perimeter. All cracks are filled with foam (50% of the total volume). Do not fill with a large amount of foam, because during expansion the foam will squeeze the box inside. We recommend using professional foams.
Since the tree shrinks and expands precisely because of the increased humidity, the consequence of expansion is the deformation of the door block. The door simply stops closing for this reason.
Video on possible door mounting methods
There are several ways to fasten the door frame in the opening, each of which involves the use of a special type of fastening. Various fastening options provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed structure. We hope the video stories on the options for installing wooden door frames will help you.
Hidden way to install doors on foam
The door frame is fixed in the opening, wooden wedges are used for fixing, and the correct location is checked by the building level. Foaming with mounting foam should be done little by little, in sections and intermittently to avoid deformation. The door frame is kept almost thanks to the foam alone.
To maintain a gap between the frame and the door itself, small spacers of 3 mm are used, which are inserted between the door and the frame. They can be removed only when the foam dries. Usually the door is left overnight.
This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is fast and does not require much effort. It is important not to overdo it with foam so that you can open the door.
Installing doors with clamps or spacers
The principle of installation lies in the fact that we use inside for temporary fastening of the door block in the opening of the spacer. It can be both ordinary wooden rivers and special adjustable devices.
Both of these methods are very good for light and small doors.
Fastening doors with Knauf hangers
For these purposes, Knauf's direct suspensions, which are used in suspended ceilings, are the best fit.
- First you need to screw the plates to the box.
- Insert the door into the opening.
- Adjust the level.
- We mark the places under the recess in the wall.
- We make a sample under the plate.
After that, we set according to the level and fix the plates. For adjustment, we use wedging with wooden blocks.
It is also necessary to take into account that with this method of mounting the box on the outer part of the wall, the place of the recess will definitely need to be hidden under a layer of plaster. That is why this method is good only when there is no fine finish.
New mounting options
This video will let you know how to fix the door frame in the opening. This type of fastening is the installation of an interior door frame by putting the box on the screwed-in heads of self-tapping screws that are located at the ends of the opening. This happens with the help of metal plates with a hole, which are screwed on the outside of the box.
To achieve the final fixation of the frame in the doorway, the usual means of adjustment are used.
With this method, the racks of the door block move freely in the opening.
A clear advantage of this method is the full possibility of adjustment and, at the same time, rigid fixation while maintaining the original appearance of the box and the exterior finish of the wall. 
Concealed installation, fastening under hinges
As a rule, for the rigidity of the structure, screws or anchors are used, which are hidden under the hinges. To do this, a hole is made between the screws in the loop and fastened through it to the wall. From the side of the lock, another mount is attached under the decorative plate. As a result, we get 3 fixation points.
After fixing directly, we put a spacer at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not fixed and fill all the gaps with foam.
A significant advantage of this method is the relative rigidity, the preservation of appearance.
Through-hole fastening on anchors or screws
This is the most common standard installation option for interior doors. For this mounting option, first, holes for anchors are drilled in the right places of the racks, then the door is fixed in the opening.
Training
- Marking 4 anchors on each side.
- Drilling with a pen 14 mm to a depth of 10 mm (space for a plug).
- We drill a through hole with a 10 mm pen (a place for fixing with an anchor).
After that, the box is exposed and the concrete under the anchor is drilled with a 10 mm drill. When the box rests on its anchors, it holds securely and does not require any spacers. The attachment points can be hidden by installing decorative caps of the desired color, size (14 mm). Screws can be used instead of anchors, this will reduce the diameter of the plug. The use of this option is the most reliable for heavy doors. With it, you can align (stretch) a curved rail. Doors can be used almost immediately. It is possible to adjust the gap. The downside is the presence of stubs. 
Tricks when installing door extensions
Conclusion
There are many options for installing an interior door frame, but you should choose the one that is the easiest, most convenient and reliable, or the fastest. The choice can be made according to any method of door installation, but these methods can be affected by which opening the installation takes place, take into account the intensity and other factors.
A properly installed door frame provides 90% success in the whole business.
Before you put the door frame, you need to carefully study the basics of this delicate work.
Tools and materials
Tools necessary for work: tape measure, pencil, hammer, square, construction knife, perforator, drill, screwdriver.
Depending on its design, you can use the following tools and materials:
- wood saw;
- a hacksaw with a small tooth;
- miter box;
- chisel;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- drill;
- drill;
- construction knife;
- roulette;
- square;
- bubble level;
- pencil;
- a hammer;
- nail puller;
- direct suspensions;
- self-tapping screws;
- dowels;
- anchors;
- nails;
- mounting foam;
- glue for MDF;
- wedges;
- wooden bars;
- door frame;
- wood putty;
- additional elements;
- ruberoid;
- building mix.
Preparatory work
If the door frame is installed in place of the old one, the latter must first be dismantled. The easiest way to do this is to simply cut the side and top planks in half and pull out the resulting pieces with a nail puller. Sometimes it is necessary to cut the fixing nails and anchors around the perimeter. If there are embedded parts in the opening, it is better to leave them. Subsequently, it will be easier to install a new box on mortgages.
In most cases, an interior door frame can be purchased as a universal kit. You have to assemble and adjust it to the desired size yourself. The box set necessarily includes side and top strips, a threshold or bottom strip for interior doors - a rarity, but may be present. The vestibule can be integral with the slats or be laid on. The box itself is either wooden or MDF. The strips included in the kit are designed for use as part of a block with a door leaf 2 m high and 60-90 cm wide.
You can accurately mark the planks before cutting as follows. The detachable porch is installed in the side strips, which are laid out with the front surface up approximately along the width of the opening. The canvas is placed on the porches between the slats. The top bar is put in place. With a solid porch, it can be applied with the upper side to the canvas, this will not affect the measurements. A uniform gap of 2-3 mm is set along the perimeter of the canvas, for this you can use cardboard scraps, tile corners, or just by eye. We note the location of the canopies on the side bar and canvas.
The hinges are cut before the box is installed in the opening, or better before it is assembled. This makes work more convenient. The bar is laid out on a horizontal surface, the contour of the loop is outlined, excess material is removed with the help of a chisel. It is generally accepted that the canopies are located at a distance of 20 cm from the upper and lower surfaces of the door leaf. For lightweight canvases, amplifiers are made in these places.
The places for cutting the planks are carefully marked with a pencil. For a door with a threshold, the gap to it from the bottom of the leaf is assumed to be 2.5 mm. For a door without a threshold, the clearance under the door is from 1 to 1.5 cm. On the upper and lower strips with a solid rebate, marks are made opposite the edges of the rebate on the side strips. This will allow you to cut off the extra protruding ledge at the top and bottom to match the corners of the box.
We cut all the strips to the desired size with a hacksaw. A miter box will help cut the elements evenly. On the upper and lower slats, using a hacksaw and a chisel, we remove the extra porch along the serifs. Again we lay out the box on the floor and put the canvas into it with the installation of the necessary gaps. We fix all corners with two self-tapping wood screws 75 mm long with a countersunk head. For self-tapping screws, pre-drill holes of a suitable diameter. If you screw in the screws without drilling, you can split the ends of the slats.
When the width of the opening allows, it is better to reinforce the MDF box on the sides with additional bars. So the structure will become more rigid. Before trying to insert the door frame into the opening, we fasten 3 straight hangers along its outer side surfaces: 2 at the edges and 1 in the middle. A strip of roofing material is nailed to the lower end of the structure with a threshold.
Door frame installation
We install the box in the opening. It should enter freely and not rest anywhere. Everything that interferes must be knocked down. For the option with a threshold, a strobe in the floor may be required. During installation, it is filled with a mortar or a polymer building mixture.
To begin with, the side of the box, on which there will be sheds, is set according to the level in 2 planes and in alignment with the wall. This side can immediately be fixed to the opening with direct suspensions. Approximately the upper bar is set to the horizon. It is checked that it does not touch anything, it is even better to have a small gap for subsequent adjustment.
It is quite difficult to accurately set the top bar and the reciprocal side rack in terms of level.
Fine adjustment is carried out with the curtain hung. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the door will not evenly approach the porch over the entire plane.
The canvas is placed on the canopies, the upper and side counterparts are set with the required clearance around the perimeter and along the narthex. This is done with wedges. 3 reciprocal direct suspensions are screwed.
For models made of MDF with a removable rebate, the box is rigidly fixed to the opening with anchors or long self-tapping screws through the groove for the rebate. In wooden planks, you can hide the location of the fasteners with the help of wood putty that matches the color. MDF versions with a solid rebate can be fixed through the box only in 3 places: under the canopies and the striker of the lock latch. But such fasteners are too close to the edge of the wall and can lead to chips. Therefore, it is better to limit yourself to mounting on direct suspensions and mounting foam.
Before filling the gap with foam, the ends of the opening should be slightly moistened with water. It is desirable to fill in such a way that the foam does not crawl out of the plane of the wall. Cutting it leaves the pores open and reduces the strength and durability of the filling.
So that the foam does not squeeze the opening, it must be wedged. You can simply leave the canvas in the opening, and put cardboard scraps in the gaps. If the door opens into the room, this will not work. You will have to use scraps of wooden bars and wedged them in the opening.
After a day, the foam will harden. The removable porch is fixed with glue. For reliability, you can add small carnations with bitten off hats. It remains to draw an opening and embed fittings. When you want to have a platband on both sides of the opening, and the width of the box is less than the thickness of the wall, additional trims are used.
Installing an MDF door frame is often seen as an alternative to installing a real wood product. In principle, both of these options have a right to exist: both wood and a composite based on pressed fiber do their job quite well, so MDF is quite suitable for most designs.
However, the installation technology of such boxes has its own characteristics, and in the article I will talk about them, based not only on the opinions of experts, but also on my own experience.
What is this design?
Product Features
The door frame is a profile structure that is installed in the opening and serves as the basis for fastening door hinges, lock strikers and other elements. The main function of the frame is to keep the shape of the door so that the door leaf can move freely, so it is very important that the product has sufficient rigidity and stability.
Important!
Sometimes there are also frameless doors - designs in which the hinges are recessed directly into the opening with the help of pins.
However, such a solution is implemented only in conditions of a shortage of free space, for example, when arranging toilets and bathrooms in standard apartments.
The standard material for the manufacture of boxes is a wooden beam, but recently it has been increasingly replaced by MDF panels or composite options.
They are characterized by the following structure:
- The product is based on strips of pressed cellulose fiber impregnated with an adhesive composition.. This material is characterized by high density and significant uniformity, which provides the necessary strength and density.
- In the production of blanks for door frames, the strips are profiled, i.e. they are given the shape necessary for a snug fit of the door leaf.
- A decorative coating is applied to the surface of the material, which not only provides the product with an attractive appearance, but also protects the base from contact with moisture.
To date, the market presents door frames with various types of coatings:
| decorative material | Peculiarities |
| Melamine paper | MDF with paper coating belongs to the economy segment. In the production of profiled parts, they are pasted over with thick paper with a printed pattern (sometimes with a texture), and then covered with several layers of protective varnish. Despite varnishing, paper-coated products are not durable: when rubbed, the paper layer quickly loses strength, and when wet, it swells and gradually degrades. |
| PVC film | Products laminated with PVC film occupy about 70% of the entire market. They are characterized by an attractive appearance combined with good performance: the film used for decoration is moisture resistant and retains the brightness of the shade for a long time. |
| Veneer | Natural wood veneer is the most expensive, but at the same time the most beautiful coating. Outwardly, such products are almost indistinguishable from those made of solid wood, but they do not last so long. The thing is that even high-quality glued veneer can peel off with regular moisture and temperature changes. |
It is also worth noting that in addition to door frames made only from MDF, there are also prefabricated options: they are based on a wooden beam, on which a stamped profile part is attached.
I have used such parts several times and I must admit that they are quite technologically advanced, and the composite structure really strikes a balance between lightness and mechanical strength.
Advantages and disadvantages
The installation of an MDF door frame provides us with a number of advantages:
- The material is somewhat lighter than natural wood, therefore it is easier to work with it, and it has less load on the supporting structures.
- The homogeneous structure ensures that there are no delaminations and cracks, while the fasteners hold very well in the MDF.
- The use of various technologies makes it possible to imitate expensive wood species at minimal cost: for example, the price of a veneered, and even more so laminated version for oak or wenge will be much lower than that of a solid wood product.
This solution also has disadvantages:
- Cheap MDF panels swell with prolonged contact with moisture, which can lead to a change in the geometry of the doorway.
- If you make a mistake and choose a door frame that is too thin, then a heavy canvas can provoke its deformation.
- As I noted above, the decorative coating can peel off from the base, so you need to use the product carefully enough.
Advice!
Unlike MDF products, natural wood boxes are quite easy to restore: the array can always be sanded, restoring its original beauty.
Well, almost original.
- Finally, the downside is the more complex assembly of the MDF door frame: the assembly of parts using mechanical fasteners must be carried out with pre-drilling, then both nails and self-tapping screws will not provoke cracking of thin panels.
And yet, an extensive range of such parts and their affordable cost take their toll: even premium doors can be equipped with MDF boxes, so we should figure out how to mount them correctly.
Mounting technology
Tools and materials
The technology for mounting MDF door frames is simple enough so that even a novice master can implement the project with his own hands.
To work, we need the following tools:
- saw on MDF (hacksaw, reciprocating or circular saw);
- perforator;
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- level;
- plumb;
- roulette;
- a hammer;
In addition to the blanks for the door frame themselves, other materials will also be needed:
- anchor dowels with metal or plastic sleeves;
- self-tapping screws;
- wooden bars for the manufacture of wedges;
- self-expanding polyurethane foam.
In addition, cement mortar may be required to restore the geometry of the opening itself, but this must be determined on site.
Box assembly
To make the design stable enough, we need to mount the . How to properly assemble an MDF door frame - I will tell you in this section.
The main requirement for the box in which the canvas will be located is rectangularity. That is why we need to perform all operations on a perfectly flat, stable surface - for example, on a floor covered with a tarpaulin or non-woven material.
We work in this way:
- We lay the door leaf on the floor.
- On the sides of the door we place blanks for the vertical racks of the box.
- We cut the blanks in height, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm in the upper part and 2-3 mm below the threshold.
Important!
If the presence of a threshold is not provided, then we make a gap from the floor of about 12-13 mm: the gap in the lower part will not only provide ventilation, but also allow us to open the door without catching the floor covering, carpets, etc. with the canvas.
- We also cut the upper bar of the box in width, making the side clearance also about 3 mm.
You can do this in three ways:
- The first technique is a spike connection. It is the most time-consuming, in addition, it requires the presence of a milling cutter, but on the other hand, the strength of the join increases significantly. Before assembling the MDF door frame, we cut out spikes and depressions at the ends of the parts, allowing you to fit the planks close to each other. We assemble the frame of the future door with glue, further reinforcing the assembly with self-tapping screws passed through.
- The second method of installation is docking at an angle. We put the MDF panels to be joined in a miter box and cut them off at 450. We attach the parts to each other, adjust, cutting off thin layers of material with a breadboard knife, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws, screwing them also at an angle. You can also glue the joint, but glue plays an auxiliary role here.
Advice!
As in the case of a tenon joint, it must be remembered that when attaching a vertical and horizontal part, the linear dimensions of the box will be reduced by the thickness of the panel.
Therefore, during the initial adjustment, it is worth laying the necessary margin.
- The easiest way is to join the parts at right angles. To do this, we place the horizontal bar at the ends of the vertical racks (if necessary, you can cut out part of the protruding porch), align and fix it with one or two through screws. To avoid cracking the MDF, it is worth drilling several holes with a drill, the diameter of which will be about 2 mm smaller than the diameter of the fastener.
After assembling the box, it is advisable to check the perpendicularity of its parts.
Door hinges
I usually do the operation like this:
- First, I determine the place of attachment of the hinges, taking into account the direction of opening the door. To do this, either I apply a canvas with loops already fixed and mark it, or I measure 20 cm from above and below, and draw lines in accordance with the width of the support plates.
Important!
For interior doors, two attachment points are enough, while for an entrance structure, three or even four hinges may be needed.
- On the marked lines with a sharp knife I make cuts to a depth of 2-3 mm.
- Using a sharp chisel and a carpenter's hammer, I make a selection, the depth of which corresponds to the thickness of the hinge base plate.
- I carefully level the bottom of the sample with coarse sandpaper.
- I apply the loop to the sample and put marks on the box opposite each mounting hole.
- According to the marks, I drill the starting sockets, and then fix the loop with self-tapping screws, twisting them with a screwdriver and “reaching out” with a Phillips screwdriver.
Sometimes doors are completed with non-separable hinges. In this case, the parts are installed on the canvas, and they are attached to the box already at the time of hanging. However, I don’t really like this design, so I prefer the classic version.
Mounting the box in the opening
The installation process itself takes a minimum of time - in any case, compared with the preparatory operations. There are several installation methods, some of which involve the use of special steel hangers.
I do something like this:
- I clean the doorway from protruding elements (old fasteners, plaster residues, etc.). If necessary, I carry out its repair using cement mortar.
- I insert the assembled box into the opening and align it horizontally, vertically and flat.
- I fill the gap with self-expanding polyurethane foam, trying not to leave voids.
- If necessary, I drill holes under the hinge support strips and under the strike plate of the lock, through which I twist several anchors that rigidly fix the box in the opening.
- I hang the doors on the hinges, check if they move freely, and close them until the foam is completely polymerized.
Wedging control
Important!
If the porch at the box is made in the form of a removable bar, then I drill holes in the groove for the porch in increments of about 40 cm and also fix it.
In parallel with the installation of the door frame or after the completion of this operation, it is also possible to install slope strips - the so-called extensions. Together with the platbands, these elements will completely cover the mounting gap, masking the fasteners and a layer of heat-insulating material.
Conclusion
Assembling a door frame from MDF, as well as installing it in a doorway, is not so much difficult as labor-intensive processes. The result largely depends on the accuracy of the master and on taking into account all the nuances, so before you take up the saw, you should study the video in this article. If you still have questions after watching, you can ask them in the comments to the material.
Unlike metal doors fully prepared for installation, wooden counterparts are sold as a complete set. The explanation is simple - many manufacturers (mostly foreign companies) supply the market with models of certain standard sizes, and not for a specific opening, and do not meet our standards. In addition, it is not known in which direction the door should swing open at the installation site.
Therefore, the door frame is represented by bars, from which you still need to assemble the jamb and prepare it for hanging the canvas. Knowing some of the features of "design" will allow you not to resort to the services of hired craftsmen, but to do all the work yourself.
Helpful information
- It will be useful to those who, for whatever reason, do not want to purchase a door in a furniture store, but prefer to make it on their own, according to their drawings. This often happens with non-standard openings; it is much easier to assemble a box of the required dimensions than to expand / narrow the passage. The nuance is in the choice of the width of the beam. It must correspond to the thickness of the wall, and the latter (for buildings erected according to a standard design) depends on its material.
Dimensions - in mm. Deviations within ±5 are allowed.
- Brickwork 75 - box 108.
- Log house (log, timber) 100 - jamb 120.
- If an imported model is purchased, then its box is slightly different in size due to a mismatch of standards. Its width varies from 80 to 205. Therefore, you will need to choose a suitable block, focusing on the thickness of the wall at the location of the opening.
What is it connected with? With a significant difference in size, problems with the installation of platbands are provided. There are several solutions - the use of extensions, the manufacture of a "draft" box; but all of them only complicate the installation and increase the final cost of the work.
Box contents
- Loop jamb (vertical rack on which canopies are attached).
- The vestibule (opposite side of the box on which the striker plate of the lock, latches is mounted).
- Ceiling (horizontal element connecting the racks) It is also called the upper beam.
- Nut (lower jumper; optional part of the design, but some models are equipped with it). It is used if a do-it-yourself door frame is assembled for its installation in rooms such as a bathroom, toilet, and a number of others, where emergencies are possible associated with a breakthrough in liquid communications. The task of the threshold is to prevent the spread of water in adjacent rooms.
Assembly Options
The task is to connect the individual parts of the kit into a rectangular frame structure. Depending on the presence/absence of the threshold, it takes the form of a closed/open loop. In principle, there is nothing complicated; the main thing is to make a competent installation. When deciding how to assemble a door frame, you need to consider that this can be done in several ways. Which is preferable, you will have to decide on your own. In this case, much depends on practical experience in this area and the tool that is at hand.
baguette connection
Plus - the relative ease of assembly. The technology consists in corner sawing (trimming) of the ends of the fastened elements (450). After combining the parts, the final fixation is made with screws (self-tapping screws).
Minus - limitation in application. It is related to the material of the jamb. For example, it is not recommended to assemble an MDF door frame in this way - it is possible that the edges will “ruffle”, the appearance of cracks and chips.
spike connection
Plus - reliability. This assembly option ensures the durability of the structure, while the door is subjected to constant and significant loads. For example, at the entrance to the building, in places of intensive movement of people.
Minus - self-assembly requires not only experience, but also a special tool. In their absence, no, even the most detailed, step-by-step instruction will help.
Right angle
Plus - it is considered the simplest technique to implement independently, and therefore convenient: a special tool, except for a household one, is not needed. It is only necessary to cut off a certain part of the quarter (depending on the dimensions of the connected elements) and fasten the parts according to the dimensions of the opening. Sometimes this is not practiced - the connection is made end-to-end. The result is expected - the door frame is strong, reliable.
Assembly order
The technique is a right angle. When self-assembling, it is recommended to completely mount the structure, and only then place it in the opening.
In some step-by-step instructions, a different technology is considered - the preparation and installation of individual parts of the frame in the opening, their alignment with linings and further connection into a single whole. This method is much more difficult, and without proper experience it is better not to practice.
- Preparation of the workplace: free a certain segment on the floor, put together several tables of equal height. The task is to provide a smooth, solid foundation. Otherwise, it will not work to make a high-quality assembly of the box for the entrance, interior door.
- Measuring the dimensions of the opening. Produced in 3 levels (width) and 3 points (height: center and sides). In accordance with this, the required dimensions of the box are determined; there should be a technological gap between it and the walls (recommended within 4 ± 1 mm).
- Open samples. It is done if their dimensions in length do not match the opening. To do this, you need a pencil (draw lines) and a hand saw.
- Pre-assembly of the box. All parts are laid out according to the scheme, taking into account the direction of opening the canvas. That is, it takes into account which side of the rectangle the porch and the loop jamb should be on. After aligning the “shape”, its geometry is controlled, the sizes match, and marks are applied to select a part of the quarter.
- Connection preparation. Notches are made along the marked lines, after which a part of the part is removed with a chisel. To increase the reliability of the joint, the cut is leveled to an ideal state - with a knife, file, grinder.
- Marking for fittings and material selection. It is more expedient to immediately prepare the “nests” for the hinges, the striker of the latch (lock), than to do this after the door frame is installed in the opening. But modern canopies (for example, "butterflies") should not be fixed. They are fixed on the box when hanging the canvas. The only exception is for loops of old modifications, collapsible; one half of them is installed on the frame during its assembly.
- The connection of the parts of the box. For each "line" - at least two fasteners. The interval between them is chosen so that they are located at least 5 mm from the edge.
Note. If a threshold is provided, then it is placed in a box with the expectation that there should be at least 10 mm from it to the canvas. This is necessary to ensure the natural circulation of air currents.
It remains only to check the correctness of the geometry, to process the joints in order to eliminate possible differences in height and install the door frame in the opening.
It turns out that there is nothing super complicated in the assembly of the jamb. In the process of work, cutters, a laser level and other special tools (equipment) will not be needed. All that is needed for the "design" of the box is accuracy, attentiveness and marking accuracy.
Interroom doors today are the integral attribute of each interior. A variety of models allows you to make your room not only practical, but also original. But this feature largely depends on the correct installation of the door frame of the interior door. Therefore, before starting such an operation, you should familiarize yourself with the main nuances of this procedure.
Door types
Interior doors are structures that play only a decorative role, so the strength parameters are not so important here. Manufacturers try to make their products as comfortable and beautiful as possible. The main criterion for the classification of interior paintings is the material from which they are made. Depending on this, there are several types of doors:
- Fiberboard. The basis is wooden bars, to which thin wood boards are attached. To protect the surface of the material, it is laminated and coated with several layers of varnish. This type of product is the cheapest, but also short-lived. Often they are complemented by a box with a threshold. Experts do not recommend installing these doors in the bathroom or in the kitchen, where there is poor ventilation.
- MDF. Cloths are much more expensive than fiberboard products. The products are characterized by an optimal price-quality ratio. Therefore, many buyers prefer MDF doors. The material resists moisture well, and also has high sound insulation rates.
- Natural tree. Solid wood doors are unique and beautiful products that are perfect for any interior. The substance is very well processed, which allows you to give it a different shape. Therefore, such doors are very often decorated with carvings, which makes them even more beautiful.
They are complemented by a telescopic or simple box, which allows you to mount the platbands more efficiently. Door leafs are made from various tree species, among which the most popular are pine, oak, ash, maple, mahogany and many others.
There are many other classifications of interior doors that take into account their technical parameters and design features. They can be single or double-leaf, and the surface itself can be smooth or complemented by curly cutouts and glass inserts.
What will be needed?
Installation of interior doors involves not only a careful approach, but also the use of high-quality auxiliary tools. To perform such tasks, you will need the following standard set of products:
- Saw. It should be sharp and have small teeth, which will prevent the appearance of chips on the surface of the box.
- Drill and a set of drills. The type of tool depends on the material of the wall to which the frame will be attached. It is important that the drills can drill holes in brick, concrete, etc. In some cases, you may need a hammer drill and several drills.
- Screwdriver and nozzles for a certain type of fasteners.
- Tape measure and pencil for marking.
- Level.
- Fasteners. In most cases, you will need some wood screws, as well as wall plugs. Sometimes you can use special anchors.
- Mounting foam.
- Expanding elements. They are needed to fix the box in the opening. Often wooden wedges are used for this. Therefore, you need to stock up on wood, from which it will later be possible to form several similar products.
This list is not universal, as it depends on the type of door frame and how it is installed.
Installation subtleties
Installing the door frame of an interior door is a complex procedure that requires certain skills and patience. You need to start by preparing a working tool, as well as choosing a mounting method. In most cases installation is carried out using anchors, which securely fix the frame.
How to assemble?
The procedure for installing the box begins with its assembly. This design can be of several types. Today, U-shaped frames are increasingly used, which exclude the presence of a threshold. But there are also rectangular structures that are also used quite often.
Factory models are often already prepared for assembly, as they are pre-finished to give a beautiful look. If you decide to build a box of wooden beams yourself, then it must be thoroughly dried and polished.
Assembling the box involves performing several sequential operations:
- Initially, you need to lay out the bars on a flat horizontal surface. Often, a floor is used for this, which is covered with paper or film to prevent damage to the door leaf.
- The assembly of the box begins with measurements. It is important that the width of the opening is slightly larger than the door leaf itself.
- When all the data is known, the elements of the box should be connected into a single structure. They can be connected in several basic ways. The simplest is the connection at 90 degrees. To do this, the upper bar from the ends is cut at a given angle.
It is important that the cut surface is smooth and without distortions. After that, the vertical support is attached to the transverse bar and screwed.
- These elements can also be connected at an angle of 45 degrees. To do this, a corner is cut off on each bar. After docking both structures, they should also form 90 degrees. Please note that even the smallest deviations should not be allowed, since the operation of the entire system depends on this.
- When you have fitted all the bars, you can connect them together. To do this, use nails or screws. It is advisable to drive 2 fasteners in each docking side. It is important that after assembly the box is held as firmly as possible, and the elements do not move relative to each other. If you plan to organize a threshold, then it is attached to the supports like a top bar. It is also important to connect this part as evenly as possible.
- After assembling the box, you should start attaching the hinges. To do this, the frame is laid on the floor and leveled. After that, grooves for the hinges are cut out on one of the sides on the vertical stand. Experts recommend placing them at a distance of 20 cm from the upper and lower edges. Grooves are formed using a chisel or milling cutter.
- When the hinges are attached, place the door leaf inside the box and mark their locations on it. To do this, the product is aligned with the frame, and then loops are applied and places are marked.
The grooves on the door are cut in the same way as on the box.
How to install correctly?
Do-it-yourself installation of a door frame involves several sequential operations:
- Before installing the product, you need to measure the structure and the doorway. It is important that the structure fits into the hole, which should be slightly larger than it.
- After that, you need to carefully lift and insert the box into the opening. It is necessary to install the structure on a flat surface to avoid distortions. The ends of the product must coincide with one of the sides of the wall. This is important if the wireframe width is less than this value.
- It is important that the box stands exactly in all planes. Therefore, you need to align it and fix it in this position. For this, wooden spacers are used, which are installed between the frame and the wall.
How to fix?
Mounting the structure is the final stage of the installation of this product. This process consists from several successive stages:
- Several mounting holes are drilled in the fixed box. In this case, a wood drill is used, which only the frame passes through.
- To form holes in the wall for the dowel, use a long concrete drill. With it, marks are made through previously drilled holes on the surface of vertical supports. Please note that the diameter of the drill should not be larger than the hole in the tree, as then you will not be able to fix the system with a self-tapping screw.
- At this stage, you need to remove the box and drill holes of a larger diameter in the marked places on the wall. They must fit under the plastic dowel or anchor that will be used for this purpose.
- When everything is ready, the box is put back into place, leveled and fixed with wedges. If all is well, you can screw the frame to the wall with self-tapping screws in several places. In this case, it is important to constantly monitor the position of the box relative to various planes.
- The procedure ends with filling the slots with mounting foam and hanging the doors on the hinges.
Replacement methods
Very often, interior doors are installed in place of already worn-out systems. This, in turn, involves the dismantling of the old box. To replace the old design, you can use several methods:
- Dismantling with the destruction of the frame. This approach involves removing the old box using brute force. Both crowbars and saws are used here, which divide it into several separate parts. After that, they are already installing a new system.
- Disassembly of the structure with the preservation of the frame. If the doors are still in good condition and can be used elsewhere, carefully remove the box. To do this, sequentially remove all screws or other fasteners. Then the foam is removed, which fixes the product additionally. This will allow you to easily remove the box later, while maintaining its integrity.
This step-by-step guide is not universal, as the replacement of the box takes place taking into account specific design features.
If the door clings to the threshold
Wooden doors are prone to warping. Even if you installed the structure and checked the correctness of its course, this does not mean that it will always be so. Very often the canvas begins to cling to the threshold.