Barrel made of wood with your own hands. How to make a bath - a barrel of boards

The best brands of cognac, wine, liquor, rum, whiskey are aged in wooden containers. In the household, barrels, tubs are also rightfully considered the best storage place for pickles. In terms of sanitary and hygienic characteristics, they are not much inferior to stainless steel containers, but surpass the latter in a number of quality indicators. Natural material creates a favorable environment for the aging of products, while giving them original aromatic and taste properties. An oak barrel can be made with your own hands, if you carefully read the step-by-step guide for making this necessary product.

There are only a few high-level professionals, but this does not mean that the work cannot be done. Requirements for the manufacture of the desired container at home are different. It is enough to make a design that can withstand moderate loads during operation. The cooperator must have skills and knowledge in the following areas of activity:

• Joinery. The main operations are performed by the techniques, tools used in this business;
• Basic metalworking skills. They are needed for the manufacture of high-quality, geometrically and technologically correct hoops;
• Basic knowledge of geometry. The shape of the barrel is complex, you need to accurately calculate the dimensions of each part: riveting, bottom, hoop;
• General concepts of wood heat treatment. In cooperage, it is important to choose the correct hot working mode during assembly (if the riveting has a significant bend), and then fire the finished product.

In the classical production of wooden containers, glues and metal fasteners are not used, with the exception of external hoops. All connections are made by precise fitting of parts. Slots, gaps that make the product unsuitable for solving the tasks are not allowed. A well-made barrel, tub after assembly without soaking should have the necessary tightness. In some cases, small leaks are allowed if the wood dries out, which are easily eliminated by moistening and swelling of the natural fiber.

The principle of manufacture and details of cooperage products

The technology for the production of wooden containers requires precise, step-by-step operations, from the selection of raw materials to the decorative finish of the outer side of the product. To make an oak barrel with your own hands, you need to know what it consists of:

• Frame. It is assembled from prepared wooden blanks - rivets:
• Hoops. Made from metal strip. The exact diameter is determined in each case according to the planned dimensions of the barrel body. Wooden hoops are used less often. They are less reliable and more difficult to manufacture:
• Bottoms. Depending on the intended purpose, the container is equipped with one or two bottoms. The detail is made by a set of wooden blanks assembled in a single plane, then a circle cut out according to a template with the necessary tolerance for a snug fit to the barrel body.

It is important to follow the exact recommendations of professionals at each stage of work. A cooperage product of satisfactory quality cannot be made by violating even one point of technology. The step-by-step production process is as follows:

• The choice of wood for riveting, bottom;
• Drying, testing for suitability, rejection of low-quality blanks;
• Making staves, bottom, hoops;
• barrel assembly;
• Burning;
• Finishing grinding, decorative finishing of the front part (if necessary).

The geometric dimensions of the riveting in each case are original, depending on the height of the barrel, the degree of bending of the workpiece, its width, the bevel angle of the end part for a tight fit with the adjacent element. You should exactly repeat the dimensions indicated in the existing drawings, or, having knowledge of the spatial construction of complex figures, independently determine the necessary values.

How to choose wood

Cooperage products can be made from various types of wood. However, oak barrels are considered the best. The choice is not accidental, because in addition to strength, durability, the material has unique biochemical characteristics to create optimal conditions for storing drinks and food products. Natural substances in oak wood fiber have an antiseptic effect, give pickles, alcoholic beverages unique taste and aromatic features.

Experienced coopers choose raw materials when the tree is still in the vine. It is specially cut down and subsequently cut into the necessary blanks. The lower part of the trunk comes into play, on which there should be no branches, visible bumps and bends. Usually it is 4-5 meters from the root, with a plant age of at least 100 years. It is difficult to fulfill these conditions at home if the master is not a native forest dweller. Therefore, the visible qualities of the fiber become the criterion for choosing wood for riveting. The requirements are:

• No knots:
• The inadmissibility of the oblique layer;
• Cracks, natural defects, voids;
• Variety.

What can be compared, for example, with a cucumber or a tomato pickled in an oak tub. And in a linden barrel, honey, apple juice are perfectly stored, you can cook kvass in it. Finally, an oak tub with a lemon or laurel tree even today will not spoil the interior of even a city apartment. Just do not find these simple products either in the store or on the market. But you can make such a barrel yourself, and although this task is not an easy one, an amateur master is quite capable of coping with it.

Step 1. Choosing wood

Before creating a barrel with your own hands, you need to choose wood. Oak and pine are unsuitable for storing honey - honey darkens in an oak barrel, and smells of resin in a pine barrel. Here we need linden, aspen, plane tree. Poplar, willow, alder will also come down. But for salting, pickling or urinating, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will serve for more than a decade. For other needs, you can use blackberry, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.

Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees goes to riveting, it is called “riveter”. But a lover of tinkering will choose blanks from ordinary firewood, and adapt a thin trunk to the job. It is best to make riveting from raw wood.

Step 2. Chock split

First, the chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - is split in half, gently tapping the log on the butt of the ax. Each half is then again pricked into two parts, and so on, depending on the thickness of the chock (Fig. 1), in order to ultimately obtain blanks 5-10 cm wide (15 cm for sweet clover) and 2.5-3 cm thick. It is only necessary to try so that the split goes radially - this will save the riveting in the future from cracking.

Step 3. Drying the workpiece and processing

The chopped blanks are dried in a room with natural ventilation for at least a month. You can use a dryer to speed up the process. The dried workpiece is processed with a plow or sherhebel and a planer. First, the outer surface of the riveting is planed. At the same time, to check the curvature of the surface, a template should be prepared in advance (Fig. 2), cutting it out of a thin plank according to the finished product. Next, the side surfaces are planed, also checking their curvature according to the template.

Riveting can be kadushechnaya - in which one end is wider than the other, and barrel riveting - with an extension in the middle. The size of these extensions determines the taper of the tub and the convexity of the central part of the barrel. It is enough if the ratio between the widest and narrowest part of the riveting is 1.7-1.8 (Fig. 3).

The processing of the side surface is completed with a jointer. It is more convenient to do this by moving the workpiece along the jointer (Fig. 4).

Step 4. Processing the riveting from the inside

At the next stage, we process the inner (in relation to the finished barrel) surface of the riveting, cutting off excess wood with a planer or even an ax (Fig. 5). After that, the tubular riveting can be considered finished, and for the barrel riveting, the middle still needs to be thinned to 12-15 mm (Fig. 6). Let it not bother you that rivets can have different widths - we take everything possible from each workpiece.

Step 5: Making Hoops

Barrel hoops are made of wood or steel. Wooden ones are not so strong, and a hundred times more hassle, so it is better to use steel ones. Hot-rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm is used for hoops.

Having measured the barrel at the place where the hoop was stretched, we add to this size the double width of the strip. With hammer blows, we bend the workpiece into a ring, punch or drill holes and put rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm (Fig. 7). One inner edge of the hoop must be flared with blows of the pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand (Fig. 8).

According to the location on the product, the hoops are divided into farts - the central hoop on the barrel, the morning - extreme and cervical - intermediate.

Step 6. Assembly of the product

To one jack-of-all-trades, the grandmother brought a crumbling tub with a request to collect it. Tom had never had to do this before, but he did not refuse the old woman. He came up with the following: he threw a rope on the floor and laid out one to the other rivets on it. Then he crushed them with pillows and pulled the ends of the rope together. Gradually removing the pillows, he brought the extreme rivets together and secured them with a hoop.

Coopers make it easier.

The product is assembled on any flat surface. First, two rivets are attached to the hoop opposite each other with special brackets bent from hooped iron (Fig. 9). Then, attaching rivets to one of them, we get to the other, which will tighten the assembled half of the barrel. Continue assembly until the rivets fill the entire perimeter of the hoop.

Lightly tapping the hoop with a hammer, we upset it and check whether the edges of the riveting are tightly aligned. To achieve contact of the rivets over the entire side surface, you need to add a rivet or pull out an extra one and after that put a permanent hoop. By the way, if changing the number of staves does not give the desired effect, you just need to narrow one of the staves or replace the narrow one with a wider one.

Having trimmed the ends of the skeleton with light blows of the hammer, we put on the middle hoop and push it all the way with the help of a hammer (Fig. 10).

Step 7. Trimming the skeleton and the final screed

Having exposed the skeleton on a flat surface, we describe with a pencil using a bar (Fig. 11) the cut line. Having planted the morning hoop, we cut the skeleton 2-3 mm from it and clean the ends of the rivets with a planer. We do the same with the other end of the skeleton.

In the manufacture of a barrel, after fitting an onion, neck and morning hoop on one side, the other side must first be pulled off. Coopers have a special device for this - a yoke. A home master can use a cable, rope, chain or wire for the same purpose. You can tie a loop and twist it with a gag or pull the ends of the cable with a lever (Fig. 12).

There is no need to do any steaming or boiling of the skeleton, as some experts recommend, before tightening. Occasionally, however, it happens that the riveting does not bend along the entire length, but in one place and therefore gives a crack. However, in such cases, the cooper will prefer to simply make a new riveting.

Step 8. Stripping the skeleton from the inside

The assembled skeleton is cleaned from the inside with a plow or sherhebel, and the ends of the skeleton with a planer - a humpback (Fig. 13).
Now in the core you need to make a morning groove (Fig. 14). The cutter of the tool can be made from hooped iron, and even better, from a saw blade. The depth and width of the groove must be 3 mm (Fig. 15).

Step 9. Making the bottom shield

First, a bottom shield is assembled from a sweet clover with a planed outer side and jointed side surfaces (Fig. 16). The sweet clover is fastened with nails, as shown in the figure, for which nests are pre-drilled 15-20 mm deep. The radius of the future bottom is found as the side of a regular hexagon inscribed in the circle of the morning groove on the skeleton of the barrel. However, you need to cut the bottom with a margin, deviating from the intended circle by 1 - 1.5 mm. After cleaning with a sherhebel, chamfers are cut from the edge of the bottom (Fig. 17) so that the thickness of the wood is 3 mm three millimeters from the edge - this is necessary for the tight connection of the bottom with the frame in the morning groove (Fig. 18).

Step 10 Trying on the Bottom Shield

We make the first fitting - loosening the hoop, insert the bottom, inserting one side of it into the groove, and then with light blows of the hammer and the rest. If the bottom is tight, you still need to loosen the hoop, and if it is too loose, tighten it.

After stuffing the hoop, make sure there are no gaps. The perfect result the first time is rarely achieved. Even if the cracks are not visible to the eye, they can be found by pouring a little water into the barrel. If it flows between the rivets, then the bottom is too big and you need to trim it slightly. Worse, if water flows through the bottom or through the morning groove. Then you have to disassemble the skeleton and narrow one of the rivets.

Step 11 Installing the Second Bottom

Before installing the second bottom, a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm should be drilled in it. The cork is made as shown in Fig. 19, its height must not be less than the thickness of the bottom, however, the cork must not protrude beyond the cutting plane of the core.

Step 12: Painting

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that you should not paint jellied containers with oil paint: it clogs the pores, which contributes to the decay of wood. It is desirable to paint the hoops - they will not rust. For decorative purposes, a barrel, a flower tub can be treated with mordants.

The brown color of the oak is given by slaked lime mixed with a 25% ammonia solution. A black solution of iron sulphate or an infusion for 5-6 days of iron filings in vinegar.

A decoction of the rhizomes of the fragrant woodruff (Asperula odo-rata) turns linden and aspen red. Red-brown color gives a decoction of onion peel, brown - a decoction of walnut nibs. These dyes are brighter than chemical ones and more stable.

It must be remembered that wood is better preserved with a constant humidity regime. Therefore, dry products must always be kept dry, and bulk products filled with liquid. Both of them cannot be placed directly on the ground. It is better to substitute a brick or plank under the barrel than to subsequently get rid of the rot by cutting the chimes.

But no matter how long the barrel serves, all this time it will be a pleasant reminder to the owner of the difficulties overcome in comprehending the secrets of the ancient cooper's craft.

There are not so many masters of cooperage today, but the tradition of pickling in tubs, or storing honey and wine in barrels, has remained in Russia to this day. It often happens that it is not possible, for one reason or another, to acquire a wooden container. Then you can make an oak barrel with your own hands. Although this is not the easiest task, however, if you set yourself a clear goal and follow all the features of the technology, you can make quite a decent wooden container for storing food and drinks. We will talk about how to make an oak barrel with our own hands below.

We make blanks

To make a container, you first need to select the material. If you want to store beekeeping products inside, pay attention to lime or aspen raw materials, plane trees. Not bad honey is stored in barrels made of poplar, alder wood, willow. An oak barrel is ideal for salting, fermenting or urinating.

If you figured out the raw materials, you should choose an old tree. Its lower part is best suited for rivets. During harvesting, be sure to make sure that the churak is a couple of centimeters larger than the size of the future barrel. This stock is needed for grinding the edges.

The wood must be raw. Initially, the churak splits into 2 parts. For this, an ax and a small log are used, which are gently tapped on the butt. Each half splits in two again. It is necessary to ensure that the separation takes place radially. With each subsequent half, they do the same - the number of blanks depends on the diameter of the oak barrel. It is easy to prepare raw materials with your own hands, the main thing is accuracy. Please note that blanks may have different widths, but this is not scary.

Rivets are dried indoors, where good natural ventilation is established. The term is at least 1 month, and ideally even about 1 year. After drying, it is processed with special tools. It could be:

• plow;
• sherhebel;
• plane.

First, the outer side of the riveting is processed, be sure to check the degree of curvature according to a pre-prepared template. It can be cut from a thin board, attaching it to the finished product. After all the outer surfaces are processed, you can proceed to the side ones. They are also aligned according to the template, and after processing they are jointed. The inner surface of the riveting is processed with a planer.

Rings

To make hoops, you can use both steel and wood. The latter option is less durable, so it is better to immediately give preference to metal. For hoops, hot-rolled steel in the form of a strip is used. Its width is about 3-5 cm, and its thickness: 0.16-0.2 cm.

It is necessary to make a measurement at the place where the hoop will be stretched. After that, the width of the strip, doubled, is added to a certain value. With the help of a hammer, the workpiece is bent, acquiring the shape of a ring, and then holes are punched or drilled in it and rivets are placed. The material for them is mild steel wire, the diameter of which is 0.4-0.5 cm. One of the inner edges of the hoop must be flared with the pointed end of the hammer.

Assembly subtleties

Making oak barrels with your own hands requires patience. However, the result is worth the time and effort. So, to assemble a barrel for salting, you need a flat surface. To get a finished barrel you need:

The skeleton does not need to be boiled or steamed before tightening, although there are those who insist on this. There are times when the workpiece can crack. Then experienced coopers replace it with a new one.

Bottom

To make the bottom, first you need to cut a groove from the bottom at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge of the end, its dimensions can be 0.4-0.5 mm. To do this, a special tool is used - the morning. On both sides of the groove with a chisel, you need to make a chamfer from 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

The bottom is made of a special shield. It is assembled using metal studs or nails. Having drawn a circle, you need to step back from it by 1-1.5 cm and cut out the future bottom. After that, it is cleaned with a sherhebel, and chamfers are cut along the edges. As a result, the thickness of the rivets there will be no more than 0.3 cm. This ensures complete tightness of the structure.

To make a fitting, loosen the bottom hoop and insert the bottom. It is inserted into the groove from one side, and from the second side it is adjusted with a hammer to the desired level with light taps. With a tight move, you can loosen the hoop a little more, if it goes too freely, it is better to tighten the hoop.

Next, the hoop is stuffed again, and the barrel is checked for leaks. To do this, pour some water into it. If there is a leak between the rivets, you need to slightly reduce the bottom. If water seeps through the bottom or groove, you will have to disassemble the frame and narrow one of the blanks.

Before installing the second bottom, make a hole in it, the diameter of which is not more than 3 cm and make a cork under it. The correct dimensions suggest that it will be slightly more than the thickness of the bottom and will not protrude beyond the skeleton. That's the whole sequence that you need to follow in order to make an oak barrel with your own hands.

Repair

Can an old barrel be repaired? Of course. If an alcoholic drink was stored in it for a long time, it is worth disassembling the structure and removing a layer about 2 mm thick from the tree. Further, the drink does not penetrate into the wood. After that, the rivets are processed and assembled again.

You can repair an oak barrel with your own hands, even if it leaks. To do this, you need to repeat the same manipulations as in the manufacture of containers - adjust the hoops.

This is what it is, cooperage business. You can make wooden products yourself, but this requires a lot of time and effort. But is it worth spending them, if today you can order via the Internet, on the website of the Russian Bondar company?

You can buy almost everything today. But it’s quite difficult to find a wooden barrel, really high-quality, solid, and besides, it is expensive. There is another point that not everyone takes into account - it is not a fact that a finished barrel is suitable for a specific purpose. The reason is the mismatch of the wood species. The conclusion is unequivocal - to make a barrel yourself. And if you deal in detail with the drawings, the nuances of the work, then it will not turn out to be any complicated and impossible with your own hands.

Pine

• Elasticity, bending flexibility.
• Easily processed with household tools.

• When the temperature rises, it will resin abundantly.
• The characteristic smell that will always be present inside the barrel.

Recommendation - such wooden barrels are not used for storing food or fermenting anything.

Juniper

Strength combined with ease of processing.

Big weight.

Recommendation - it is advisable to use for the manufacture of relatively small barrels for transportation (storage) of bulk materials.

Oak

• It bends beautifully after the tree is well steamed.
• Contains fungicides that protect the structural elements of the barrel from decay.

High material cost. To make a high-quality barrel, you will have to use a tree that is at least 80-100 years old.

Recommendation - if the barrel is intended for storage (sourdough) of products, aging of wines, and so on, then oak boards should be chosen.

According to the reviews of those who have already made a wooden barrel with their own hands, you can also use such types of wood as linden, ash, aspen, mulberry.

The choice of material is a rather specific issue. If a barrel is needed to store stocks of wine (cognac, vodka), sourdough (salting) of cucumbers, watermelons, apples, and so on, then the best tree for it is oak. This is undeniable. But it is hardly correct to spend such wood (given its cost) on making a container with your own hands, in which it is supposed to store cement, sand, bulk products. Other breeds, “simpler”, are quite suitable for these purposes.

The procedure for calculating the parameters of the barrel

Based on its purpose and installation location, dimensions and design features are selected. In everyday life there is some confusion with the concepts. In principle, both the tub and the barrel are containers of a certain capacity, which are assembled manually from separate boards (staves, fret in the language of professionals). The difference is only in the geometry. The pictures explain everything well.

What is defined for the drawing:

• Barrel height
• Diameters (large and small).
• The angle of the staves and their number.

To simplify calculations, it is advisable to focus on typical data that are used by specialists when drawing up barrel drawings.

Do-it-yourself wooden barrel - instructions

The algorithm of actions is clear from the figures, which show the main stages of work.

But separate explanations will not be superfluous.

Rivets can be made from logs or boards. The first option is preferable, although its implementation by hand is much more difficult. The fact is that only the lower part of the tree trunk goes to the manufacture of the barrel, from the roots to the branches. You will have to chop logs (decks) on your own.

What is the feature?

• The ax blade must hit exactly in the center, along the diametral line. This will somewhat facilitate the work and allow you to get high-quality rivets in larger quantities (based on each deck).

• Boards are obtained by splitting, hewing chocks. Wood processing is always carried out along the fibers, and not across.

It is advisable to prepare at least 2 - 3 spare rivets. Why, it will become clear when describing the assembly order of the barrel.

To facilitate bending, the rivets are given an irregular geometry. The thickness at the ends of each board should exceed the same parameter in the center by about 0.2. That is, if it is planned to assemble a barrel from 10 mm boards with your own hands, then they are hewn with the expectation that their thickness in the lower and upper parts of the container is at least 12.

Drying staves

Various sources indicate terms that are measured in months, or even years (up to 3). At this point, it is necessary to focus on local conditions, the initial and its porosity. Recommendations for artificially accelerating this process when doing do-it-yourself work are not entirely useful. Without practice, it is difficult to determine the optimal mode for the same electric / cabinet and the exposure time of the tree in it. Experienced craftsmen advise to wait until the moisture evaporates from the wood naturally.

It is only necessary to place it in a room with proper conditions - a temperature of at least +20 ºС and good ventilation. You may have to wait 2 or 3 years. But a high-quality barrel "in one day" is not made, and this must be understood.

If we are talking about a container for household purposes, then you can dry the staves even on the stove. But in any case, a barrel is not assembled from raw boards. After a couple of weeks (due to shrinkage of the wood), gaps will begin to appear between them. Checked.

hoops

Finding metal strips, drilling holes for rivets with your own hands is easy. The only thing you should pay attention to is that it is better to take tool steel. It is characterized by increased strength (tensile strength) and corrosion resistance. If it is pre-treated with drying oil and then burned (for example, with a blowtorch), you will get hoops of the original light brown shade.

Bottom

It is cut out of a shield, which is assembled by hand from pre-prepared boards. Moreover, using a different technology than frets (sidewalls). Their thickness does not change along the length. To ensure the tightness of the joints, the ends are milled, that is, the assembly is carried out according to the well-known tenon-groove principle. In some cases, special (sealing) rails are installed.

Barrel assembly

The sequence of actions is shown in this figure.

This work is not done alone; 2 - 3 assistants will definitely be needed. Rivets are placed along the lower hoop with maximum fit. If the last board does not "fit in", it should be trimmed slightly to size. This is where spares come in handy, since the first or even the second time, with your own hands, without experience, it may not be possible to adjust the “finishing” board. A little bust with a sample of wood, and it will have to be rejected.

The penultimate stage - installation of the bottom

And only after that, the hoops are coupled (if they are adjustable) or their final landing in place (in height).

The last step is wood sanding.

How to process the barrel from the outside is decided on the spot (“skin” and manually, sanding / machine), but after that it is desirable to cover the container with beeswax (thin layer). This will provide additional protection for the tree from external factors.

Good luck, beginner coopers!

A do-it-yourself wooden barrel made will allow not only to save money, but also to get a high-quality elegant product. Barrels made of wood were used by our ancestors for pickles, making alcoholic beverages and storing water, which proved their versatility. Therefore, they are still successfully used today. How to make a wooden barrel so that it is durable and does not leak? What tools and skills are required to make a barrel at home?

If you are determined to achieve your goal and are not afraid that you will have to refine the product to the desired state, then you can make your dream come true and make a wooden barrel yourself. Cooper is a difficult profession that came to us from past centuries. Today, there are few masters of this craft, and there are even fewer high-class specialists in the manufacture of barrels, so free-selling barrels are a rarity, and not everyone can afford the cost of the product.

Instruments

To make your first barrel or small barrel, you need to prepare a place in which it will be convenient to work, tools and suitable material. In addition to the carpentry kit necessary for making a barrel with your own hands, you need to purchase cooperage devices:

• carpenter's workbench, fitted for the manufacture of barrels;
• long jointer and circular humpback planer;
• a device for planing edges on the boards, a barrel will be assembled from them;
• equipment for tightening rivets (pillar gate, chain coupler and frame gate machine);
• skobelya, plow, bracket;
• templates and patterns of own production;
• clamps made of wood, metal (for assembling the skeleton of the barrel);
• morning time - a device that allows you to cut the morning groove, where the bottom part is inserted.

You need to understand that it is quite difficult to purchase these tools, wood and fixtures on the market, since almost all coopers make machines and layouts on their own, taking into account their height. This is done by trial, no instruction will help.

What you need to know

The main difference between cooperage products is the assembly from pre-prepared wooden boards (staves). The size and shape of the barrel is completely dependent on pre-prepared boards, the configuration of which is set by the cooper. And the initial quality of wooden barrels depends entirely on the chosen wood. For this reason, it is not enough for the master to have a thorough knowledge of the instrument. You need to know the subtleties of each type of wood from which wooden products will be made.

An experienced master will not make a barrel for honey from oak blanks, because he knows that in such a container, honey will quickly acquire a completely different flavor and darken. But it is impossible to find a replacement for oak barrels for aging wines and cognac.

The second element is a hoop that pulls together all the components of the barrel. It is thanks to the hoop that water does not seep through the joints between the boards. It can be made from metal or wood. As the experience of the craftsmen shows, metal hoops are much stronger, and less time is spent on manufacturing than wooden hoops. But some masters still prefer a wooden hoop, giving the barrel a more beautiful look.

Details and the principle of manufacturing products

Many people think that becoming an amateur cooper is very difficult, and dreams never come true. But if you are not used to backing down from your decisions, then you need to decide which option will be your first job.

In total there are 3 types of products: conical, cylindrical and parabolic. Each corresponds to a certain type of rivets:

1. Products made in the form of a quadrangle, the long sides of which look like a parabola, are used for dishes with convex edges: barrels or barrels.
2. The circuit in the form of a cylinder is simple. It is easy to make and connect it with hoops of the same diameter, but when the wood dries out in this design, the riveting ceases to perform its functions. This is the main reason why such containers are practically not manufactured.
3. The shape of an elongated trapezoid makes it possible to obtain durable dishes when stuffing staves. Therefore, this type of product is often suitable for the manufacture of tubs, tubs and other utensils.

As an experimental sample, it is better to stay on a simple small barrel.

Many are interested in how an ordinary tub is made. The barrel is the simplest cooperage product, having achieved a result in its manufacture, you can switch to more complex types of dishes, for example, make a wooden barrel with your own hands.

The principle of creating a product consists of the following steps:

• production of blanks;
• assembly of dishes;
• Finishing work.

The reliability of the structure will depend on the quality of the riveting blank, therefore the most suitable are blanks from logs of sawn wood, gouged out with an ax. For barrels, the most common wood option is oak, as it splits easily in the radial direction. The process of harvesting staves from different tree species is practically the same; a single-row or double-row punching method is used. For large decks, a two-row method is used, and for thin chocks, only a single-row method is used.

The procedure for punching out rivets is as follows:

1. The ridge must be carefully split in half so that the split line runs strictly along the center of the workpiece.
2. Each chopping block must be split in two to get 4 equal parts.
3. Next, you need to split the wood for harvesting in half again to get 8 equal parts. Usually for small logs this is quite enough. It is 1/8 of the part that will become the riveting blank.
4. If the ridge is thick, a two-row knockout is used, i.e. each of the 8 parts splits into 2 equal parts along the growth rings.
5. The resulting logs must be split in the radial direction. The result will be 1-2 smaller blanks and 2-5 for larger blanks.
6. Next, you need to cut off the wedge-shaped protrusions and young wood from the side of the bark. Only after that it is possible to dry the workpiece in an open area or resort to artificial drying.

Making staves

In order to make riveting from the prepared material, you must first prepare the drawings and a template for a specific product in accordance with the desired shape. To get ready-made rivets, you will need:

1. Run markup.
2. Make a rough processing of each of the blanks. Namely, round the outer surface, bevel the edges with an ax.
3. Perform finishing with a planer, constantly monitoring the result with a template.
4. Plane the inside of the workpiece with a humpback staple.
5. Trim narrow edges, then level their surface with a jointer.

In the process of making barrels, the cooper has to make tightening hoops on his own. The easiest way to get a hoop is from steel tape. To do this, you need to determine the diameter of the container and add double the strip width to the resulting figure. Next, using a hammer, you need to bend the tape into a ring, drill 2 holes and fix them with rivets. To make a small barrel, you will need 2 hoops that will correspond to the diameter of the upper and lower parts of the product.

Bottom assembly and installation

1. Plane the edges of the boards, fix on a workbench and divide the radius into 6 parts.
2. Within the circle, mark the places for installing the studs.
3. Pull out the boards. Drill holes in the edges, drive wooden or metal studs into them.
4. Dock all the elements tightly and secure with studs, after which you can cut the bottom.
5. Cut out the bottom, leaving a small margin.
6. Chamfer with a straight plow and knock down the hoop, loosening the fastening of the rivets.
7. Insert the bottom into the chime and turn the tub upside down.
8. Drop the hoop.

It remains to make a lid on the tub and, after checking the design for strength, proceed to use the container. If the work done was to your liking, it makes sense to continue working on the manufacture of barrels.