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G gypsum cardboard is an indispensable material for the repair of residential premises. It is used to install interior partitions, wall and ceiling insulation, underfloor sealing. When working with this material, there are often no problems, since it is elastic and easy to cut. However, during repairs, many do not take into account such a detail as the edge. Due to ignorance of the nuances while working with this material, people often have the question: “Is it necessary to cut the edge of drywall?” So, if it is not cut before installation, then soon after the repair the walls will become covered with cracks and begin to deform. Let's look at where a drywall sheet is used, why cut it and how to carry out the procedure.
What does drywall edge look like?
Due to unique characteristics this material is irreplaceable in a number of repair and construction works. So, drywall sheets are used for the following manipulations:
- Installation of interior partitions;
- Alignment of ceilings, walls;
- Warming of the house;
- The second drywall cutting technology is performed using assembly knife. Mark on the sheet the line you will cut, lay the material on a flat horizontal surface. If you are performing the procedure on a table, the incision line should extend beyond the tabletop so that it does not get damaged. After positioning the sheet, cut the sheet along the line you drew previously. To finally tear the cut pieces of drywall apart, carefully take one side along the break line, and tap it. To make the edge look neat, after trimming it should be processed with an electric planer.
An easy way to stick PVC edge
The easiest way to stick a PVC edge is to order hot melt glue to be rolled onto the edge in any furniture workshop. Then glue it, heating it with an iron or a hair dryer (naturally, not with an ordinary hair dryer, but with a technical one, which gives 500-600 degrees at the output). I myself did not use this method, so about negative sides I can only speculate, based on my experience with the material.
I glue the PVC edge on the usual rubber glue sold by us in bulk. Best for "Moment", "88" is also suitable.
Knife and other hand cutting tools for PVC processing are not suitable. Even if you manage to cut the edge with a knife, then, I assure you, neither the effort nor the time spent on this thankless task will pay for itself.
To process such an edge, you will need a router. In fact, a special edge router is used for these purposes:
But if you are not going to open your own production, then there is no need to buy such a machine. It is better to purchase a normal, large milling cutter. In addition to processing PVC, it is useful for finishing the ends, and for grooving - both at the ends of the panels and on the layer. And if you work with wood, then you simply need a router!
It is not necessary to buy a cool and expensive, quite good Phiolent routers - a reliable semi-professional
Cutter cutter ABS edging
For processing PVC edges, the following cutter is used:
Therefore, the first step will be to slightly modernize our router by adding a step to the platform. . It can be made from textolite, plywood, at worst, from fiberboard - in a word, from any sheet material 4-5 mm thick. You can fix it on screws, screws, etc., the main thing is to drown the hats or glue!
Now you need to adjust the cutter height. On the processed panel, this should not be done. It is unlikely that the first time you will be able to accurately adjust the height. Take some scrap (but not very narrow, so that the router platform does not swing), glue it with an edge, and set it up on it.
Usually, no matter how you set it up, a small protrusion remains after processing. This is not scary, just try to keep this protrusion to a minimum so that it can be easily cut off with a knife. When you finish tuning, do not throw this trim away - it will come in handy in next time. When it becomes necessary to re-adjust the height of the cutter, simply turn the cutter perpendicular to the face and lower the platform so that the cutter rests snugly on the machined edge.
The cutter is set, you can start processing the panels. You need to process in two passes. After the first pass, the cut will most likely be uneven, with the second pass we align all the protrusions and depressions:
It's in that order! If you change the pass order, the cutter will knock out and chip off the edge. From time to time, clean the cutter bearing and edge from adhering chips - the bearing can bounce on it and the cut will be uneven.
So, the panel you have processed with a milling cutter, but this is only a small part of the work. Now you have a long manual processing which takes two to three times longer. First you need to trim the hanging ends of the edge. This can be done with large scissors or simply broken off by first cutting with a knife. When breaking off, do not forget to firmly press the edge at the edge of the butt so that it does not peel off. Cut not at the very root, but retreating somewhere by 0.5 mm. It is better to spend time sanding or sanding than cutting more than necessary.
No router cuts PVC perfectly. In any case, bumps will remain that will be clearly visible in the light. In most firms that make furniture for sale, no one bothers to further processing- cut off the remaining protrusion with a knife, strike a couple of times with the back of the knife along the cut and that's it.
But are you doing it for yourself? So get ready to spend the same amount of time to bring the cut to perfect condition. First of all, cut off the protrusion remaining after the router with a knife (if the height of the cutter is set correctly, then you will have to cut off a thin thread).
If you glued PVC on contact adhesive, then most likely there will be streaks and streaks of glue on the panel. Be careful when cutting them. And it is better to first remove them with a cloth moistened with solvent or gasoline. After that, walk along the cut with a fine sandpaper, aligning all the “ripples”, then polish it with felt.
Now you have a finished panel that is not inferior in quality to the one made on furniture factory, and maybe surpassing it!
This describes the process of pasting the ends of chipboard with a conventional paper edge using a conventional iron.
For pasting, the most suitable is an ordinary Soviet-made iron with a temperature regulator.
In most cases and for most edges, the optimal temperature regime exposed almost reaching the third division.
On short parts, up to 40 cm long, the entire length at once.
On long sections of 40-45 cm.
An indicator of a well-heated edge is the sagging of the edge under the iron, because. melted adhesive layer.
An insufficiently heated edge will not adhere well to the end and subsequently, if not immediately, will begin to peel off.
However, edge overheating is also undesirable. because the glue simply burns out and the edge does not stick.
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Immediately after the edge section has been warmed up, we smooth it to the end with a cloth (felt, etc.). The edge cools down quickly enough, so you should not smooth it for a long time. It’s better to immediately go to another section of it, thereby avoiding a trace of the transition. For the same reasons, when warming up the edge, we “carry” the iron along the edge without holding it in one place for too long. That is, we simply perform the same actions as when ironing clothes. The principle is the same. |
Now we move on to trimming the excess edges. First, cut off the ends.
Then on the plane.
We hold the knife as shown in the photo. It is desirable to direct the cutting movements towards the part, and not outwards. Because not all edges are of the same level of moisture and quality, therefore, on drier edges, when the knife is moved “outward”, ugly scuff marks of the front layer may form, which will be difficult to remove even with subsequent grouting with sandpaper.
Also, with the help of an iron, you can remove the previously glued edge.
1. heat the edge section, pry it off and separate it from the part ....
Everyone knows a fact that often occurs during edge banding - this is melting of the PVC edge, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.
There is a problem of wavy formation on the edges with a thickness of 2 mm after scraping, delamination of the edge from the part, 0.4 mm edge roughness, whitish edges and many more problems.
It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case deeper than to write off everything on the quality of the edges.
So, you should first consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of marriage at this stage in detail, we are talking on the exclusive use PVC edging.
The process consists of several stages:
gluing
Facing
Overhangs milling
Cycling
Polishing
Bonding of PVC edges.
Regardless of the type of machine, edge bonding is carried out using glue - melt.
The likelihood of marriage at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:
Make the most suitable settings by trial and experiment
Choose a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature
Take into account the parameters of chipboard (moisture, friability)
The edge melts when glued.
If you also use a feed rate of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply a more heat-resistant edge, and it must be taken into account that allowable temperatures The edges claimed by suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape and not to the part. We recommend changing operating temperature glue bath.
After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, the surface roughness appears:
A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the wrong selection of glue - melt.
The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right glue - melt. Bumpiness on the surface appears at a low density of chipboard with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.
It will be possible to correct the problem by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the tuberosity will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.
When glued, it forms uneven surface due to the indentation of the chipboard structure:
Such a problem is easily solved. Just move the additional pressure rollers.
Too noticeable seam between the edge and the end of the part.
When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the adhesive for visual merging of the adhesive seam of the edge and laminated chipboard.
The edge is melted on curved parts.
This problem is also worth looking at in terms of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.
So, for example, for machines manual type When the part is moving around a fixed adhesive unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.
For equipment with automatic feeding, when the workpiece moves around the gluing unit with constant speed 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. The use of polyurethane adhesives is recommended when the adhesive unit is manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edgeband.
Milling of overhangs, scraping.
After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.
This problem occurs if the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.
Increase cutter speed and decrease edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.
Chips formed at the edges of the edge.
Chips on the PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.
They may indicate that the speed of rotation of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both at the same time.
Polishing.
In order for the edge of the edge to be well polished, all the remnants of chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel with a separating liquid applied to the surface of the chipboard.
Conclusion:
Based on the above, we recommend that you do not immediately write off bad edge banding for when changing suppliers.
In order to make sure that the edge does not fit, it is necessary to check its use on several modes / machines, check whether the temperature, feed rate are set correctly, take into account the composition of the adhesive and much more.
Of course, the quality of the edges primarily affects the veneering process, based on many years of experience in the supply edge bands, we recommend that you choose materials based not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.
So, in order not to spoil the product / part at the stage of edge banding, it is necessary:
Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges
Pay attention to how much the importer works in the market
How many suppliers/factories the importer has (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).
We offer to solve your problems at the edge banding stage.
You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the "LUX" edge, save without loss in quality, using the STANDARD PVC edge. ().
We are happy to solve all the problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program / in production, we accept a full refund.
We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edging materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.
Everyone who has ever encountered laminated chipboard knows that a plate made of this material has smooth surfaces with a textured pattern, while its end parts are a hodgepodge of wood chips with glue. In order to give the parts sawn from such a plate a presentation, a process such as chipboard edging was invented. It is a gluing on the ends of the details of a decorative strip - "edge", which can be either in color with the chipboard decor or different from it.
To date, two main types of edges are used:
- PVC edge
- melamine edge
PVC edge used in the factory manufacture of furniture, it is more reliable, durable, durable, but the edging procedure when using it is quite laborious. In furniture workshops, special edge-cutting machines are used. PVC edge thickness is 2 mm and 0.4 mm. The width also varies depending on the thickness of the chipboard sheets.
Melamine edge less durable, but requires a minimum of tools to stick and is widely used among home furniture makers. But due to the low mechanical resistance, its use is limited. Personally, I glue the melamine edge mainly on drawers. On the reverse side of the melamine edge, hot melt adhesive is always applied, and it itself is sufficiently resistant to elevated temperatures, so it is enough to stick it simple iron. It is only thin (0.4 mm) and has never been seen wider than 20 mm.
Since our site is dedicated to more work at home, first we will analyze how.
So, for work, we need the edge itself, an ordinary iron, a metal ruler, a clamp or a vise (optional), small sandpaper on the bar.
The edge sticker technique itself is as simple as a nail:
Now let's figure out how to glue PVC edge with your own hands, i.e. without use edging machine. Such an edge will last much longer than melamine, besides 2 mm and looks "richer". It is worth mentioning that the PVC edge can be either already with an adhesive layer (hot melt adhesive) or without it. In the first case, edging occurs with the help of a building hair dryer, and in the second case, it is necessary to purchase glue. Let's consider the second method in more detail, because. it is more economical.
Let's start with gluing 0.4mm PVC edges. To fix it, it is best to use contact types of glue, for example, 3M ™ Scotch-Grip, Moment Crystal, Titanium or "88". It should be noted that it is more convenient to work with liquid glue (3M), it is easier to level and its consumption is much less. We work with glue according to the instructions indicated on the package.
Contact adhesive can be replaced with hot melt adhesive. For this you will need glue gun with a set of rods and an industrial hair dryer.
For work, we need a roller to press the edge (it can be successfully replaced with a rag or a piece of felt boots)), the glue itself, a spatula for leveling the glue or a simple brush, as you like, a wide chisel or a knife from a planer to remove excess edges, a sanding block with a fine sandpaper .