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Partitions in the house from a bar. Wooden partitions in a wooden house: installation

It can be divided into two types - single, double, as well as multilayer:

  • Single - these are partitions between rooms, which are made of boards with a thickness of 40-50 mm, such partitions do not have an internal soundproof layer and can be classified as thin-walled partitions between the premises of a house.
  • Double - these are frameless double-walled partitions in which it is possible to make a soundproof layer.
  • Multilayer - these are partitions assembled from two or more layers of boards.

The basis for partitions from boards

Partitions made of boards are lightweight compared to brick partitions, and such partitions do not perform the function of load-bearing walls (they do not serve as a support for interfloor ceilings), therefore, a capital foundation is not required for their foundation. The basis for the partitions of the boards are floor beams or flooring. The location of the partitions can be done both along and across the floor beams.

Materials for the device of partitions from boards

If we talk about what building materials are used for the construction of plank partitions, then their name itself indicates that the main building material from which such partitions are made are boards. In most cases, these are edged or unedged boards made of coniferous trees, such as spruce or pine, with a thickness of at least 40 mm. The recommended humidity of boards is no more than 12%.

The construction of partitions from unplaned boards is carried out if further plastering of the surface of the walls of this partition is provided. In other cases, it is advisable to use an edged board, and if wall decoration is not provided, then in this case the front surface of the boards should be smooth - it is necessary to process this surface with a planer and sand it.

As a result, we get the following materials:

  • Edged board not planed.
  • Edged board planed (polished from the front side).

Partitions from boards are made from vertically (rarely horizontally) installed boards, which form a solid wall of the partition. The partition boards are fastened to the bars, which are attached to the surface of the ceiling and floor. Consider the main points of the device double and single partitions.

Do-it-yourself double partition from boards

A double partition of boards is usually done like this:

  1. Bars (A) are attached to the floor and ceiling, then boards are attached to these bars.
  2. First, one wall of the partition (B) is assembled from the boards, placing the boards vertically.
  3. Control bars (C) are attached to the finished wall of the partition (B). The distance between the bars depends on the use of the material that will fill the space between the walls of the partition, if the space is not filled, then the control bars can be fixed at a distance of 400 - 500 mm from each other.
  4. After fixing the control bars (B) and if a soundproofing layer was required (D), the second wall of the partition (E) is recruited.
  5. If it is necessary to arrange a doorway, then racks (D) are installed in the intended place. After the wall is installed, before installing the door frame, the bar (G) can be cut out or a threshold can be drawn in this place.

Do-it-yourself single partition from boards

Fastening boards to bars when installing single partitions can be done in two ways:

  1. Boards are installed between two bars, which are parallel to each other.
  2. The boards are installed in grooves made in the bars, which are attached to the floor and ceiling opposite each other.

In the first version, the boards are installed between two bars. First, bars (A) are attached to the floor and ceiling, then bars (B) are attached in the same way. The distance between the bars should ensure that the boards (B) fit tightly into the space between the bars and have the same distance along the entire length. For example, if the board is 50 mm thick, then the distance between the bars can be made 50 ... 52 mm.

The bar (B) is made shorter than the bar (A) by the width of one board, from which the partition is assembled. For example, if the board is 150 mm wide, then the bars (B) should be shorter than the bars (A) by 150 mm. This will allow you to install boards between the bars, for example, if a door frame is installed in the partition, the direction of installation of the boards is indicated by arrows.

This version of the partition device has a significant drawback - the bars protrude above the floor surface and make it difficult to install the plinth. Such partitions can be used, for example, to divide space in a utility block, garage or country house (not a residential building).

The second option for erecting a single partition from boards provides for attaching the boards to only one bar, more precisely, into a groove that is made in the bar. This option is more time-consuming, but at the same time, the support bars will no longer interfere with the installation of the plinth - it turns out a flat wall from floor to ceiling.

Before erecting a partition according to this option, it is necessary to make a groove 15 mm wide (minimum value) in the bars (A). The depth of the groove is equal to half the thickness of the bar, that is, 50 mm / 2 \u003d 25 mm, this is the depth of the groove.

A spike must be made at both ends of the boards, while the thickness of the spike must be at least 14 mm, that is, 1 mm less than the width of the groove. This will facilitate the installation of the boards and their movement in the groove of the beams (A). The height of the spike relative to the depth of the groove is made 5 mm less. If the groove depth is 25 mm, then the height of the stud should be approximately 20 mm (upper and lower stud).

The length of the board (from point B to point D) should be no more than 2645 mm, with a ceiling height of 2700 mm. Since bars (A) with a groove for installing boards are attached to the floor and ceiling, the distance between the grooves is taken to calculate the length of the boards, which in the described example is 2650 mm. It turns out 2650 mm - 2645 mm = 5 mm, this is the minimum gap between the end of the board and the end of the bar (A).

In the bars (A) it is necessary to make a place for installing boards. To do this, in the lower bars, (for example, near the doorway), you need to cut off one wall of the groove, 150 mm wide (in the example, the width of the board is 150 mm).

When it is no longer possible to insert the boards into the groove from the end, the installed part of the partition and the doorway interfere, then in this case we just use the place for installing the boards made in the lower bar (A). First, we insert the board at an angle with a spike into the groove of the upper bar (A), and the bottom spike of the board passes freely in the prepared place and thus install the spike into the groove.

After the upper and lower spikes of the board are installed in the groove, move the board in the direction of the installed boards and connect them together. All board installation directions are indicated by arrows in Figure 3. Now let's talk briefly about the end connection of the boards.

An effective end connection can be achieved by joining planks through dowels. To do this, it is necessary to drill blind holes at the ends of the boards. We leave one end of the board with holes, and install dowels in the holes from the other end, and so on in each board.

The main thing is that the holes in the end of one board are on the same axis as the dowels installed in the end of the other board. The center-to-center distance between the pins and holes is made the same at about 200 mm, the depth of the pin into the board can be 50-80 mm (with a board width of 150 mm). The depth of the hole in the end of the board, into which the dowel enters when the boards are joined, must ensure that the dowel is completely deepened so that there is no gap between the boards.

Note:In all ways of arranging wooden partitions, boards installed against the wall of the house are attached to it with nails or with dowels.

There are a huge variety of designs of interior partitions, they can be used regardless of the materials from which your house is built.

It is quite important to make the partitions technologically correct and provide the appropriate requirements that will be necessary for certain rooms.

If we consider the vertical structures inside the house, we can distinguish between load-bearing walls and interior partitions. All floors and roof structures are based on the first, while they themselves are based on. On the plan of the house, the position of the load-bearing walls is strictly fixed.

Interior partitions in this case will not be load-bearing structures. They only divide the interior space of the whole house into separate rooms. Therefore, they can be made both from heavy building materials (for example, silicate brick) and from light ones (for example, wood or). Houses, environmental friendliness, beautiful aesthetic appearance, and the possibility of redevelopment of space in the future depend on the building material and the quality of interior partitions.

Interior partitions in a wooden house should be:

  • durable and reliable so as not to create any danger to the residents of the house;
  • maintain the established period of its operation;
  • not have cracks and crevices on the surface or at the junctions with other structures of the house.

In addition, there are special requirements:

  1. For partitions in the bathroom and laundries, resistance to the penetration of moist air and steam is quite important. They must be made from waterproof building materials, but the main thing to consider is to prevent moisture and dampness from entering the structure. This problem will be perfectly solved by the correct lining of waterproof building material;
  2. For interior partitions of the second floors and attic rooms in houses with wooden floors, their low weight is important, since they are able to withstand a small load than reinforced concrete;
  3. If you plan to illuminate a room in the depths of the house, then it is better to use a translucent partition made of special glass blocks or structures with glass inserts;
  4. For laying the appropriate engineering communications (, chimney, etc.), a stationary interior partition of increased thickness is perfect;
  5. Partitions inside the house, separating zones with different temperature conditions, must be massive and guarantee good thermal insulation.

Interroom partitions made of gypsum concrete are several times lighter than brick ones, they have a flat and smooth surface.

The thickness of such a construction from one layer of plates will be only 10 cm. If it is necessary to increase the sound insulation of a room or lay pipelines in an interior partition, it must be made double.

The installation of this system begins with leveling the ceiling with a cement-sand mortar, then a special roofing felt waterproofing is placed under the lower blocks.

The template is made from two racks with a moving rail. Usually, the plates are mounted on top of each other with the long side strictly horizontally, with dressing of all seams. Gypsum mortar is used. Metal reinforcement is laid in all horizontal seams and fastened in the walls that limit the interior partition. The gap between the ceiling and the interior partition is sealed with a special gypsum mixture. It is not necessary to plaster the plates, just puttying is enough.

An important point, the gypsum mixture must be prepared immediately before its use, since it hardens very quickly. And all the metal rods that are installed between the rows of plates must be treated with a special bituminous varnish.

In new houses, before installing partitions, it is advisable to wait a few months after the installation of the load-bearing structures of the house so that their necessary shrinkage occurs. Interior partitions in the house are mounted before the floor screed is made. When performing a screed or a rough wooden flooring in the future, a gasket of 2 cm thick soundproofing building material is made between the wall and the floor.

The installation of systems begins by marking their location with lines on the floor, walls and ceiling.

Interior structures are firmly connected with the ceiling at the base and the near walls.

Interior partitions made of wood

Currently, two types of partitions are used in a frame house using wood - these are solid and frame.

Wooden partitions are used in houses made of different materials, without reinforcing wooden floors, they are perfect for the second floors of houses and attic rooms. Such structures are easy to assemble and dismantle, so they are ideal if you plan redevelopment in the future. In rooms with increased humidity, wooden partitions must be protected with waterproof.

Solid partitions made of wood are released from vertically standing boards. To increase the boards, they are mounted in two rows, distributing soundproofing material or an air gap between them. The disadvantage of this design is the high material consumption and, as a result, the cost, as well as a large specific gravity compared to frame interior partitions.

Do-it-yourself installation of these partitions in the house is carried out as follows: a special beam is laid at the base of the interior partition, which is firmly supported by the floor beams. To form a solid structure on the strapping, it is necessary to fix two horizontal guides, between which the boards are vertically fastened, connecting them in their upper part with a fixing wooden bar.

When installing a frame partition on a strapping rack, they are placed with a certain step, combining them with an upper strapping. Details and elements of a wooden frame are fixed together with nails or self-tapping screws, using metal corners. On the one hand, sheathing is installed, and after that the space between the wooden beams is filled with sound insulation. The wooden frame structures are fixed to the walls with the help of metal crutches, to the sheathing with the help of self-tapping screws.

At the junction of partitions with adjacent structures, a special metal mesh must be fixed. This will protect the entire structure from cracking.

In a wooden frame house, interior structures must be installed one year after the construction of the house, i.e. after significant shrinkage. The distance between the top of the interior partition and the ceiling should be at least 10 cm. It must be filled with tow and closed with triangular bars.

Drywall partitions

Drywall wall partitions

The modern system for the installation of plasterboard frame partitions allows you to perform construction work especially quickly.

Lightweight plasterboard partitions in the house can be used from different structures and building materials and in any other premises, even with increased air humidity.

The composition of this system includes metal profiles - horizontal guides and vertical rack-mount and special soundproof building material.

They use structures with different layers of skin, as well as on a double metal frame. The level of sound insulation of an interroom partition depends on the total number of sheathing sheets, the total thickness of the inner soundproofing layer, and the presence of an air gap.

These structures are mounted during finishing work before installation. A polyurethane soundproofing tape is glued onto horizontal metal profiles, and they are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowels and screws. Rack metal profiles are installed in increments of 60 cm. The frame sheathing must be fixed on one side with self-tapping screws, and soundproofing material must be placed between the metal profiles. After that, the skin is installed on the other side of the partition. All roughness and unevenness of the cladding, as well as screw heads, must be repaired with putty.

For a better quality of sound insulation, partitions are installed to the supporting structures of the ceiling and only after that drywall is laid. All seams between drywall sheets should be puttied in several steps.

Interior partitions made of glass materials


Glass interior partitions

To create these interior partitions, glass blocks are used, which differ from each other in a huge palette of various colors, a choice of surface textures and initial sizes.

A wooden frame is a complex of load-bearing walls made of logs that form external and sometimes 1-2 internal enclosing structures. If the purpose of the building is a residential building, inside you will need a device for interior fences that will divide the space into residential areas.

Features of fences

A partition in a wooden frame can only be installed after the house has completely shrunk, when the risk of its deformation and destruction as a result of this process is reduced. Usually, the building is allowed to rest after assembly for 1-2 years, after which you can proceed with the installation of the internal parts of the layout. The design is not load-bearing, it takes only its own weight, therefore it does not require a reinforced frame and a separate foundation.

The main difference between a partition and a wall is that the former can be easily dismantled without damaging the floor and ceiling, if the owners decide to change the layout and put the fence in another place.

Qualities that an interior fence should have:

  • Lightness of material and design;
  • Environmental safety, which is very important when choosing a material for fencing residential areas in a wooden house;
  • Thermal insulation;
  • Noise protection from adjacent rooms;
  • The partition must cope with the suspension of some household appliances and furniture on it. This should be taken into account in advance when choosing the design and material of the skin.

In most cases, interior fencing can be installed independently without the involvement of specialists.

Varieties

What type of interior fence to choose:

    Frame partitions in a log house are the most common and most affordable type of interior fences that you can install yourself. They consist of a wooden frame, insulation and cladding. Their main feature is the variety of possible configurations during installation. The frame fence can divide the space into zones of different shapes. When redevelopment, the structure is easily disassembled and transferred to another place for further service.

    Joiner's (panel) wooden partitions for a log house fit just as well as frame ones. They are prefabricated panels that need to be installed on frame rails. Partitions often do not require additional finishing, they can be varnished, colored composite materials with a pattern. Their disadvantage is low sound insulation, although this parameter can be adjusted when ordering, buying or manufacturing, choosing the option that suits you according to the characteristics.

    The cost of a carpentry partition depends on the type of construction and the materials used and starts from 250 rubles/m2 to 1500 rubles/m2 or more.

    Solid partitions without a frame are attached to the ceiling and floor guides with a nail method or screwed onto screws. To disassemble such a structure, you will have to remove all the fasteners of individual boards or panels.

Partition in a log house with your own hands

With independent construction, there is no desire to resort to the services of specialists in such a matter as installing partitions in a log house of a wooden house. We will analyze the method of construction of each type of enclosing structure.

frame structure

For assembly, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • Beam for the frame. Its width can be 60-100 mm, depending on the desired size of sound insulation and the type of insulation chosen. The height of the bar is within 40-50 mm.
  • Reiki - spacers can be smaller in size than the bars for the frame. Their purpose is to maintain the rigidity of the structure and fix the insulation.
  • Vapor barrier material, if such a layer is not provided in the insulation.
  • Thermal insulation. For residential premises, it is optimal to use plate materials: mineral wool, foam plastic, basalt.
  • For fastening - self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, you can use nails and a hammer, if the material being fixed allows their use.

Stages of work:

  1. The location of the partition is marked and the lower harness is mounted. To do this, the bar is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws or screws. It is immediately necessary to provide for the location of doorways.
  2. Strictly above the lower trim, the upper belt is attached in the same way, only it is not necessary to leave a gap under the opening.
  3. Installation of vertical racks. It is convenient to start from the opening and mount the timber with a step not exceeding the width of the insulation plate. Fastening with self-tapping screws or on the corners to the upper and lower trim. Side racks are attached directly to the wall.
  4. Now you need to make a doorway. The side racks are already installed, you need to attach the top jumper.
  5. Spacers are inserted just above the middle of the height and fastened with self-tapping screws. You can do otherwise: measure the room and assemble the frame on the floor, then lift it up and attach it to the ceiling and wall.
  6. Now you can sheathe one side of the wall so that the installed insulation takes its place during installation. It is desirable to stretch a membrane or film on the frame, which will protect the heat insulator from moisture. This issue is considered especially relevant when fencing the kitchen and bathrooms. The film can be attached with a stapler to the racks of the frame. On top of the vapor barrier, the partition is sheathed with sheet materials (MDF, GKL) or a board, clapboard. The joints of the elements should fall in the middle of the vertical rack. When one side is ready, we put the insulation plate inside the frame. It is necessary to place them in such a way that there are no gaps in the insulation to improve the effect of sound absorption.
  7. Sheathing the second side according to the same principle: vapor barrier, cladding.

This type of barriers can be installed in any houses: brick, concrete, stone, frame.

Joinery partitions

Shield screens can be bought ready-made or you can make them yourself. In the first case, you can significantly save time on the assembly of the product and its subsequent finishing, but you will not be able to save money. Self-manufacturing and installation of shields is best done before laying the finishing floor, so that the structure can be fixed on the logs. How to make a partition in a log house yourself:

  1. The dimensions of the future structure are being taken. The length is divided into several parts that need to be made. The easiest way is to make a shield out of boards. It can be double or triple (according to the number of plank rows). To do this, according to the principle of a frame partition, a jumper is made from a bar, on which even boards are stuffed on both sides, between which insulation with foil can be laid: it is able to slightly dampen noise and retain heat inside the room. Instead of foil, you can take the usual insulation material (mineral wool, foam). The shield can be single, then the boards are butted to each other and guide rails are nailed along the lower and upper edges.
  2. On the ceiling and on the logs (along the floor) you need to make grooves to hold the shields. To do this, the bars are nailed or screwed in 2 rows, the distance between which is equal to the thickness of the partition or the width of the shield, together with the retaining edge rails.
  3. Shields are inserted into the grooves.

Joinery structures can reach the ceiling or be 50-60 cm below its level. Such structures could be found in houses built in the 20th century in rooms with high ceilings such as hostels and administrative offices of ordinary employees.

Panel joinery and frame partitions are similar in design if the former are made of 2 or 3 rows of boards.

Frameless design

At its core, a frameless fence is similar to a shield one:

  • 1) Guide bars are nailed to the ceiling and floor;
  • 2) Boards are attached to the ceiling and floor beams, which are sheathed with plasterboard or other panel or finishing material.

Such a partition cannot have a heater. Instead of boards, plastic or composite panels can be chosen.

Other options

Partitions can be not only static, but also mobile. Their independent production can be troublesome and costly, but with an understanding of the technology of their work, an experienced craftsman will be able to cope with this task.

Movable screens are sold complete with guides and all fasteners, so it is advisable to purchase a ready-made system. What types of structures are there?

  • In non-threshold systems, the canvases move parallel along the ceiling profile;
  • In rail webs, partitions move along two rails on the floor and ceiling;
  • Folding canvases are folded like an accordion, moving along the ceiling and floor profiles.

Each system has an instruction according to which the installation of a movable fence is carried out. This is convenient to install in several cases:

  • For zoning large rooms;
  • To distinguish between a kitchen and a room in a studio apartment;
  • To delimit space in one-room apartments.

Sliding canvas partitions will be useful in cases where it is necessary to visually delimit the space. There is no talk of any sound insulation and heat preservation.

If you want to independently make a sliding partition in a wooden house from a log house, you should repeat the principle of operation of ready-made systems and make the appropriate floor and ceiling profiles, make canvases. Fasteners and roller mechanisms still have to be purchased.

The main thing to consider

Static and sliding partitions for a log house can be made and installed independently, lightweight structures will optimally fit into rooms with wooden walls and floors. In addition, the structures are easily attached to wood and hold well on it.

The main thing to remember: maintaining verticality and dimensional accuracy is the key to successful work. If the ceiling and floor rails are not attached parallel to each other, there will be a slight skew in the railing. Mobile systems are especially sensitive to accuracy. If the profiles are not attached parallel, the blades will simply not move or the process will be difficult.

08.01.2016 1 Comment

Any house throughout the entire period of operation can be subject to changes, restructuring, redevelopment. This may be due to a change of owners or a change in family composition. The problem can concern houses of any design, including wooden buildings. The article will tell you how to make partitions in a wooden house.

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general information

The partition should be made after shrinkage of the house. It is considered a self-supporting structure and its main purpose is the formation of an interior or rooms. It should be characterized by good sound insulation and thermal conductivity. Internal partitions do not fulfill global design goals, they are not assigned a special load. They are not even always included in the design of the house.

Building codes prohibit the use of internal partitions as a support for ceilings. A partition built outside the plan should be able to be easily disassembled and dismantled. The developer, the owner of the house, will be interested in the problem - what to make partitions in a wooden house from.

Partition wall material

There are many options for the material, but it is immediately necessary to exclude the use of bricks, cinder blocks and other building stone. First, it's pointless. Secondly, for the construction of such a powerful partition, a foundation will be needed. In our case, it is unlikely to exist. Materials for partitions in a wooden house are varied. There are a number of typical options:

  1. Wooden, standard partitions. This type is the most convenient, reliable and functional. These partitions will perfectly ennoble the house and give it comfort. Wooden partitions are durable, with their participation you can mount wall ceilings, hang shelves and cabinets, racks. This design can be plastered or subjected to decorative processing. Such a wall is easily subjected to fire treatment and anti-rotting agents, which is very desirable.
  2. Plasterboard partitions. They are economical, lightweight and not expensive. These partitions are quickly erected and form seamless surfaces. Drywall has good soundproofing properties and fire resistance. Free space inside the wall can be used for electrical wiring and other utilities. The material is environmentally friendly.
  3. Frame-panel partitions. This is the most popular and practical type of construction. For manufacturing, a beam of 50 × 50 mm is required. For increased sound insulation, a beam of 50 × 100 mm is used. You can apply a profile. Sheathe such a design can be drywall, plywood. Not the best option - fiberboard.
  4. Solid partitions. They have a very heavy construction, made of boards. If the boards are more than 50 mm thick, additional support in the form of a log will be needed. It will compensate for the weight of the partition. Boards are mounted vertically, in prepared grooves - from above and below. The design in the section has the letter "P". At the top, leave a gap of no more than 2 centimeters in case of subsidence. Boards can be sheathed, or you can decorate with stain and varnish.
  5. Glass partitions. There are many available options for glass partitions and sliding doors. They can also be used on the veranda or terrace. With their help, you can easily and quickly modify the parameters of the room.
  6. Designer partitions. During their construction, the principle of the space of options works, this is an opportunity for a creative person to show their design abilities. Wood, plastic, metal profile, chipboard, paper can be used as a material. This is a great opportunity to separate part of the room and use partitions. Forged and fabric partitions can be attributed to designer partitions.

What are the partitions in a wooden house if it has more than one floor? In this case, it is necessary to proceed from the bearing capacity of the floor on which the partition will rest. In this situation, the principle works - the easier, the better. A strength calculation is required. Even if the floors withstand the partition, they can bend and change the geometry of the structure. An additional support or reinforcing structure will be required.

Basic requirements and wishes for the device

The main requirement for any building structure is safety. It must be securely fastened, to exclude the possibility of falling, destruction. All fasteners, if possible, should be able to be disassembled. This will make your work easier if you decide to rearrange or redevelop. It is desirable to use as little combustible materials as possible, pay much attention to fire safety. Material for partitions should be environmentally friendly, moisture resistant, aesthetic.

How to make partitions in a wooden house

Installation of frame partitions

Their installation begins with laying a horizontal beam on the floor. The dimensions of the beam must correspond to the dimensions of the future partition. Then the vertical rack is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws to the wall. The lower end rest against the edge of the horizontal bar. The next step is to determine the point on the ceiling where the edge of the plumb line will be. For this task you will need a plumb line.

After mounting the horizontal elements, install the vertical ones. The standard distance between them is 55 centimeters. But this is not a dogma, it is necessary to take into account the design features of the material and the overall size of the wall, its height. Nowadays, an aluminum building profile is actively used as a frame. The docking itself is carried out in the middle of the racks. Plasterboard sheets, plywood, fiberboard are used as sheathing. Here, the hygroscopicity of the material is taken into account. The space between the lining inside the frame is filled with a soundproofing substance - polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

The first stage is the marking of the lines of our partition. A plumb line is perfect for this. Then prepare the design of the guides. Two bars are attached to the board, located in parallel. Nails or screws (self-tapping screws) are used as fasteners. The distance between the guides should be equal to the thickness of the future wall. If the boards are sawn correctly and inserted into the guides, only the most extreme can be fixed.

The rest will be deprived of the opportunity to move freely. When constructing interior partitions in a wooden house, the future wall can be sheathed with plywood, fiberboard or chipboard sheets. You can perform a capital option by upholstering them with shingles and plastering. Then an additional lag must be present in the structure, which will hold a heavier structure.

Installation of plasterboard walls

How to make interior partitions in a wooden house from drywall? The main advantage of drywall in this task is the ability to level the walls. The work can be done very quickly. It is important to consider that a wooden house almost always shrinks. This should not affect the drywall and destroy it. Work begins with markings, drawing a line of the future wall on the ceiling. Then they project it onto the floor using a plumb line.

The frame is made using an aluminum profile. Wooden bars are less commonly used, although the design is cheaper and more environmentally friendly. With direct installation of drywall sheets, it must be taken into account that the structure will move slightly. If the sheets are mounted tightly end-to-end, they will collapse. Small gaps must be left to compensate for expansion due to temperature and humidity. As a base for installation can be used:

  • wooden walls,
  • wooden slats,
  • wooden beams,
  • wood trim,
  • wood frame,
  • the wooden wall itself or the floors.

There are several methods for attaching the drywall itself to the rail. This will require dowels, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, a file, an electric or mechanical drill. A beam with a section of 50 × 100 mm or 50 × 74 mm will go to the role of rails. The optimal place for fastening is the middle of the rail or bar. The best gap between the screws is 15 cm. The fasteners should be slightly buried in the drywall. Joints should ideally be sealed with adhesive reinforcing film. If the dimensions of the joints turned out to be more than 3 mm, then they should be puttied, and then sealed with reinforcing tape.

When installing wall partitions made of glass and other materials, all of the above principles are used. And the installation of designer partitions depends only on the structure itself and is developed directly by the designer or architect.

By making partitions in a wooden house with your own hands, you can perfectly show your abilities and building talents. These works are easy to perform with little installation skills and abilities. The main thing is ingenuity, logical thinking, compliance with the simplest building rules. If you make mistakes, it will not be difficult to redo and correct them. Well, there should be no consequences, except for waste on spoiled material.

Construction of a partition in a wooden house: video instruction

The video shows what nuances should be taken into account when building partitions in a wooden house.

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During the construction of a wooden house or during redevelopment, it is often necessary to build interior partitions made of wood for zoning the internal space. Such partitions have some advantages over heavy ones. They are lightweight and do not require an additional foundation under them, which allows you to build such structures anywhere in the house.

In general, wooden partitions can be installed in houses built from any building materials. Their advantage is that, if necessary, they can be easily dismantled and moved to a new location.

All structures made of wood materials can be divided into several main types:

The most modern option for zoning residential premises is the installation of frame partitions. If you have some skills, you can mount them yourself.

Pros and cons of wooden partitions

Wooden interior partitions are not load-bearing structures, they only divide the space between the main walls, allowing you to zone the interior area of ​​the room as needed.

The significant disadvantages of such walls include their strong dependence on atmospheric humidity. The tree, absorbing moisture, expands, deforming and bending the plane of the wall. To avoid this, special oil-based impregnations are often used, which clog the pores of the tree, preventing natural air exchange, but complete isolation from moisture is unlikely to be achieved.

If a house made of timber or logs has just been built, then it is necessary to wait for it to completely shrink before proceeding with internal zoning. It takes from 1 to 2 years for a house to completely shrink, which significantly delays the finishing time.

The advantages of wooden walls, obviously, include their low cost and environmental friendliness. In addition to the cheapness of materials, the advantage is the ease of installation - you can carry out installation work on installing a frame made of wooden beams and lining it with sheet material yourself, significantly saving at the same time. There is nothing particularly difficult in doing this work, you only need to have primary skills in working with wood and be able to use a simple tool.

How to make a room divider out of wood

Before installing the partition, the best solution is to create a project, even if it is a simple freehand drawing. Such a scheme will help you better understand how much material is needed for the construction, and in what order it is better to arrange the frame racks. All further work will be reduced to performing simple actions in accordance with the drawing.

Construction of a wooden partition frame

The frame is made in the same way as during construction . The only difference is that wooden beams and boards are used as the material for the frame, and not a metal profile.

The main moment in importance in the construction of a frame interior wall is the perfect alignment of the vertical, and with it the correct location of the upper and lower guide bars. To perform this procedure, on the side walls, with the possibility of changing the position, the starting bars of the structure are strengthened, which, after careful control and adjustment of the verticality with the help of a level, are fixed with reliable fasteners.

The next step, exactly the same size bars are attached to the ceiling and floor, which will serve as the upper and lower frame guides. To maintain the correct geometry of the future partition, the guides must exactly dock with the starting beams.

Nails are used to fasten the starting and guide bars in a wooden house, but if the ceiling is covered with concrete slabs and there is a concrete screed on the floor, dowels and screws are used.

The cross-section of the beam used for the device of the frame depends on how thick the partition must be obtained. In most cases, a 100x50 timber is sufficient, which forms a frame 10 cm thick. The supporting frame of such bars can easily withstand sheathing from any materials.

Sometimes, to improve the soundproofing properties, interior partitions are made thicker, the structure is heavier, and then the diameter of the beam from which the frame is made must be increased.

Next, the frame is assembled by installing racks on the guide rails every 60 centimeters. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws for wood and metal corners. It is not necessary to achieve the ideal strength of the wooden lattice of the frame, because. double-sided sheathing is a good strength element that gives rigidity to the entire structure.

A distance of 60 cm is selected based on the standardized dimensions of sheet materials so that the joints of the sheets fall on the wooden beam. Also, this size is convenient for laying soundproof material into the frame.

After mounting the vertical racks, proceed to the installation of transverse bars, which give additional rigidity to the frame. Enough 2-3 crossbars for the entire height, staggered in relation to adjacent openings.

Sheathing of a wooden interior partition

Sheathing materials can be plywood sheets, sanded or unsanded particle boards, OSB sheets, and other board materials. They are fixed on the frame lattice close to each other with a small gap for thermal expansion. In order to prevent the penetration of moisture, warping and swelling of the cladding plates fixed on the frame, a self-adhesive mesh is applied to the joints of the joints, which is covered with putty when finishing.

Before sheathing, the frame bars must be treated with a special bactericidal impregnation, which prevents their decay and the appearance of fungus. This treatment also allows the wood to resist the effects of fire.

Before the final sheathing on the back of the frame, you need to take care of the soundproofing of the wooden partition. Insulating materials made of mineral wool are well suited for this, as they have good sound-absorbing properties. Insulation mats are laid without gaps, filling all cavities. If a 100x50 beam is used for the frame, then the insulation sheets are laid in 2 layers with an overlap, overlapping the joints.

Also at this stage, it is possible to lay the necessary communications in the partition, such as pipes or electrics. For convenience, the frame is first sheathed on one side, then the electrics are mounted on the other side and the insulation is laid. At the end, the frame is completely sewn up with the remaining material.

The gap between the ceiling and the upper part of the structure is filled with coarse fibrous material or foamed with mounting foam.

Visually, the process of erecting a frame of a wooden partition in a house from a bar is shown in the video: