A milling machine is purchased for a variety of carpentry work. But, sometimes the scope of its application increases significantly, and there is a need for reconstruction of the workplace. A do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router is a great opportunity to save money and create a high-quality work surface for yourself. Carpentry work is now in great demand, and in everyday life this tool is quite useful. And more comfortable working conditions will make it simply indispensable.
Milling table
An experienced carpenter can assemble a simple do-it-yourself milling table even without drawings, prepared dimensions and diagrams. There are many videos on the Internet on this topic and step-by-step explanations of the essence of the work. If for the first time you decide to try yourself in this area, then do not despair, if you wish, you can make a table for a manual router in just one day. In addition, you will be completely confident in the strength of your product, and you will also be able to choose the ideal dimensions that are needed specifically for your room. But, before making a circular milling table, you should understand what it is.
Milling table drawing
A home-made milling table can not be distinguished from a store version if it is made in compliance with the basic rules and requirements. Milling machines move on the surface of the material being processed, thereby leveling it. If this type of processing is made stationary, then the master will go to work much less time and effort.
A do-it-yourself table for a router occupies a certain space in the room. Therefore, before mounting, decide which table you want to see:
- aggregate;
- removable;
- stationary.
Aggregate Portable Stationary
Remember that most of the work can only be done in a stationary mode. Also, consider how often you will use the machine, because a portable model is quite suitable for rare use, and a stationary workplace for daily use.
What parts does a milling table consist of?
A homemade milling table can be made alone without the help of others. To do this, it is necessary to make all the main parts of the structure for subsequent assembly. Without one of the parts, the milling table can become almost useless, as it will not perform its main duties. The do-it-yourself milling cutter consists of the following parts:
- countertops;
- beds;
- bottom stop;
- clamping combs;
- mounting plate.
The worktop for a hand router should be thick, durable and even. Kitchen countertops are great for this, or, if one is not available, ordinary plywood. It is only worth remembering that a universal milling table requires a thickness of at least 16 mm, so the plywood sheets should be glued together with wood glue. Additional means can be given to the smoothness of the surface, for more convenient work. In the center you need to make a hole to install the router.
The drawings of the milling table cannot do without a bed. It is responsible for the stability of the structure, absorbing all vibrations emanating from the tool. To do this, you can use old bedside tables, tables, but on condition that they are very durable. Some focus on metal models, which is quite practical.
Milling table from an old nightstand
The bottom stop fixed on a table-top, is responsible for the correct supply of material. It can be made fixed, for permanent materials, or sliding, if the master will work with elements of different sizes. This is a very important element in the work, since the quality of the cutter will depend on the evenness of all sides.
Clamping combs on the table for circulars and routers are almost mandatory. They perfectly fix the material not only from the sides, but also from above. This comb can be installed at any height using fasteners. Its dimensions are set based on the personal wishes of the master and what he will face in his work.
Experts advise immediately installing sliding combs and stops, then the functionality of the working machine will increase significantly.
Assembly rules
Assembling the milling table with your own hands should take place in stages. First you need to decide on the countertop and make a hole in it for the tool. Next, material feed control systems are attached.
In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the places of their attachment to the smallest detail, since the quality of further work depends on this.
The milling machine itself must be firmly fixed under the table top. It should not dangle or hang, any movement can lead to injury during operation or damage to equipment. It is better to fix it with self-tapping screws, for your own peace of mind.
The main thing in this way of working is to make the most convenient workplace for the master. And in this regard, the master himself works with all sizes, knowing what he actually wants to get as a result.
Electronics at work
Making a circular and milling table with your own hands is quite simple, but do not forget that this tool is powered by electric current. Since the start and stop buttons will be in an inconvenient place for the master, you need to take care of their use. You can make an exit and install the start and stop buttons of the mechanism in a convenient place, but this requires knowledge in electronics.
There is an alternative option that is less safe for the router and circular saw. The start button is clamped, and it is in a constantly on state, stopping only with a cable when disconnected from the mains.
A new milling table made by oneself must fully comply with the floor covering of the workplace. If the floors are uneven, legs with a movable mechanism should be made, otherwise the structure will quickly become unusable. In order for the service life of the table for the router to significantly exceed all expectations, its surface is coated with varnish or other woodworking liquid. This not only increases the service life, but also additionally holds the elements together.
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Protect yourself from damage that may occur during operation. Install a protective glass on the longitudinal stop, which will be a barrier to flying chips, sawdust and other elements.
When making a router table at home, with your own hands, remember that working with it is quite dangerous and better take care of your safety.
The workshop of any person contains all the tools necessary for him. But at the same time, an urgent need for arranging the workplace may be necessary, and store prices may not suit you. And in general, not all people have the opportunity to visit stores with such goods.
Milling table drawing
The milling table has drawings and diagrams, so making it yourself will not be difficult. Moreover, you yourself will know which model you need, what sizes will be convenient for you. The purchase option may not always be a way out. Do not be afraid and waste time, even a beginner will figure out how to make a table.
A person who loves to create and do various things on their own will get great pleasure from creating a router table. This is a rather difficult, but fascinating business. To make a table for a router with your own hands means to get a design that costs much less than that made at the factory. When manufacturing a milling table, safety precautions must be observed.
The milling table is designed for processing materials, cutting figured holes, making connections. A table made with your own hands will come out more economical and much more convenient than a purchased one.
The work in which it is necessary to perform milling is always associated with the movement of the tool on the surface of a rigidly fixed workpiece. However, when you need to mill a part with small dimensions, some difficulties arise. To solve this problem, you can make a table for the router with your own hands. In this case, the tool will have a stationary mount, the workpiece itself must move. As a result, it will be possible to quickly carry out end processing and remove overhangs.
Standard router table
The easiest way to create a table for a router is to mount the router directly to the table top. Fastening takes place through a drilled hole. Such a setup proved to be positive in the work. In this case, the milling cutter is located at an angle of 90 ° to the tabletop, it is rigidly fixed to the table, which dampens excessive vibration.
Such a setting is considered the best if the router has a solid base, if it has the ability to control the immersion of the tool. The base of the router must be fixed to the tabletop so that the router can be lowered to the required depth. This method of installation has some disadvantages that you need to keep in mind.
Firstly, the thickness of the worktop affects the working range of the tool, it allows you to work with cutters that have long shanks.
Secondly, the performance of work is limited to a single hole diameter for mounting the cutter.
And lastly, if there is one router, its constant installation and removal, changing the cutter, adjusting the height is very inconvenient.
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Bed production
Under the bed is understood the main part, without which no table for a router can do. To make it, a variety of materials are suitable. You can use metal profiles, MDF boards, wood and more.
Perhaps the best option would be to use a metal profile. Existing butt joints during assembly are fastened only with bolts. Welding work is excluded. The design will receive high reliability, it will be manufacturable and easy to assemble.
The dimensions of the frame do not have fixed dimensions, they are selected by each craftsman purely individually. The main criterion will be the dimensions of the parts that have to be processed. To accurately determine the dimensions of the bed, it is best to make a small sketch.
In order to make it convenient to work, the frame must be deepened into the floor by about 15 cm. The most important parameter of the table is its height. Optimal will be 1 m. To get maximum convenience, it is worth equipping the router table with adjustable supports.
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Cover device
A kitchen worktop made of chipboard with a thickness of 40 mm is best suited for this part. This material perfectly absorbs vibration, it has a hard, absolutely smooth surface, on which the workpiece moves perfectly.
Modern phenolic plastic of high hardness is also suitable for the production of lids. It has an absolutely flat surface, is not afraid of moisture. Plastic does not cause difficulties in processing, which makes it possible to make grooves where aluminum profiles and stops will be installed. The only drawback is its high cost.
To make the tables for the router more reliable for long-term operation, you can make an aluminum table top. This material never corrodes and is light in weight. But before manufacturing, aluminum must be clad so that no dirty marks remain on the workpieces.
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Plates for installing the router in the table
Router tables have the inserts needed to fit directly into the table. This method has several advantages.
Due to the fact that the plate has a thickness of no more than 10 mm, it becomes possible to easily get the router to replace the cutter.
Additional inserts can be used to make it possible to use different cutter diameters. Such a plate-insert can become a base plate during surface milling operations on large-sized parts. The plate gives the router increased stability, the use of plates helps to mill wide grooves of parts.
Inserting the plate is quite difficult. It is required to first drill a seating hole in the table in order to obtain a tight fit for the subsequent insertion of the plate. In the case when there are large gaps, increased vibration occurs. If the plate does not have a reliable tight fastening with the table, the milling accuracy will not be maintained. Too large a hole drilled in the table top of the router table being manufactured will cause it to weaken. Therefore, when calculating the hole diameter, care must be taken to create a countertop reinforcement. It is of great importance that the countertop with the insert are flush. Additional gaskets, washers, and so on will help to cope with such a problem.
In this article I will show you how to make a router table with your own hands. But first, a bit of history… The advent of manual milling machines in 1974 made it possible for small workshops to carry out a number of furniture-making jobs on a completely different level. At the same time, it became necessary to create a table for a manual router. Here you can make long grooves of various configurations. In the presence of special cutters, the desired type of machined surface of the part is formed from wood or other soft materials.
Milling tables have been used in workshops producing wood products for more than 150 years. These machines take up a lot of space, creating the necessary space around them to perform work with long workpieces. In private workshops, it is easier to use a homemade milling table, which uses a small-sized lightweight machine with a built-in electric drive. You can make such a device for yourself in a couple of days. It is important to determine your needs, depending on the tasks for the next period.
Small milling table (drawings, accessories)
Quite often, a small-sized underframe is installed on the support, in which a manual milling cutter is placed. If necessary, it can be removed and put aside, freeing up space inside the workshop.
Small table for manual router
Such a fixture is made of solid hardwood (maple) and birch plywood. Drawings of assemblies and individual parts are shown below.
 | The sidewalls will be mounted according to the attached diagram. Here is what the table looks like. |
 | Top view of the table. Shown here are the main dimensions. The table top is made of two layers. |
 | Manufacturing sequence. Marking up before starting to cut out the window. The work is carried out in the lower layer. |
 | The sequence of manufacturing the top layer. |
 | Both layers stick together. Installation of guide rails. They are needed in order to cut the window with a milling cutter. |
 | Milling relative to guide rails. |
 | The design of the parallel stop placed on the table. |
 | End cap. They are installed at the ends of the stop. |
 | In the middle part, for additional reinforcement, two additional scarves are installed. A couple for suction of dust is mounted. A hose from a vacuum cleaner will be connected to it. |
 | Shield holder. The shield itself is made of plexiglass. |
To make such a device, parts are needed. Their dimensions, quantity and materials are shown in Table 1.
Table 1: Accessories for making a table for a router
| the name of detail | Designations on the drawings | Characteristics of semi-finished products | ||||
| Thickness, mm | Width, mm | Length, mm | Type of material for manufacturing | Number of details | ||
| Table details | ||||||
| Panel A | BUT | 19 | 522 | 622 | birch plywood | 1 |
| Panel B (cladding) | B | 3 | 522 | 622 | Solid fiberboard | 1 |
| Longitudinal edge pads | C | 19 | 40 | 660 | solid maple | 2 |
| Side edge trims | D | 19 | 40 | 560 | solid maple | 2 |
| legs | E | 19 | 292 | 521 | birch plywood | 2 |
| Screeds | F | 19 | 76 | 521 | solid maple | 4 |
| Power cord bar | G | 19 | 51 | 420 | solid maple | 1 |
| Table stop | ||||||
| Stop wall vertical | H | 19 | 152 | 661 | solid maple | 1 |
| The base is horizontal | I | 19 | 76 | 661 | solid maple | 1 |
| Gussets for dust extractor pipe | J | 19 | 64 | 79 | solid maple | 2 |
| end plates | K | 19 | 121 | 191 | solid maple | 2 |
| Accessories | ||||||
| Holder | L | 19 | 127 | 127 | solid maple | 1 |
| Shield | M | 6 | 70 | 127 | plexiglass | 1 |
| Clamp-comb | N | 19 | 45 | 203 | solid maple | 2 |
| stop block | O | 19 | 45 | 76 | solid maple | 2 |
How to make a milling table with your own hands?
Many craftsmen adapt an ordinary workbench as a table for a milling cutter. However, in practice it has been proven that it is better to have a separate specialized design. Explained simply:
- vibration will occur during operation, which can lead to an unstable position of parts on the workbench;
- moving up and down will require a special tool (elevator). In an ordinary workbench, there is often no free space.
An important feature of the router is the need to install a base plate associated with the table top. For her, I use metal, plexiglass or durable plywood. Fixation is carried out using holes. Most manufacturers of hand tools provide fixtures for their products in advance, assuming that a significant part of their products will be used in a stationary version.
When working, various cutters are used
Milling methods using different types of shaped cutters
Based on the study of known designs, a number of basic requirements for the milling table are formulated.
- The base plate must be in the same plane as the table. When moving workpieces, vertical displacement on the support is not allowed. Some masters leave the base sole. They bring it to "zero" with a countertop. But most agree that another plate needs to be made.
- For convenience and safe use of the machine, the on and off buttons should be located so that they can be quickly used. There may be a situation where you need to urgently turn off the power to the engine.
- The movement of workpieces is carried out relative to the stop. It can be moved so that the master has the possibility of milling edges, as well as grooves in semi-finished products.
- It is useful to consider the installation location of the machine. It needs a comfortable ride. It may be necessary to mill the length. Then the blanks should be stacked on both sides of the table.
- Some craftsmen adapt the installation of only the tabletop to an existing machine. So it is possible to combine several devices on one frame.
Even an ordinary table can be converted into a machine. An example of such a transformation is shown in the video.
To get the most out of the machine, you need to minimize the thickness of the base plate. Then the overhang of the cutter will be maximum. In practice, long finger cutters for deep milling can be used. Strength will be provided only by fairly rigid materials.
Mounting the device for vertical movement
The movement of the hand mill up and down is done using a device called an elevator. Here, a variety of mechanisms are used to move and fix a given position.
A possible version of the elevator is shown in the video.
Option for manufacturing a compact table with drawers
Quite an interesting design, which is easy to repeat for your own workshop.
Real view of the machine for milling workpieces
Structural study in three-dimensional display using engineering programs
 | Frame from individual parts. They are made from coniferous wood. |
 | Organization of cuts when joining frame parts in the upper part. The main dimensions are shown. |
 | Organization of cuts when joining frame parts in the lower part. |
 | To install drawer guides, you will need to glue these parts from two blanks. |
 | Assembly of the table frame and installation of facing side panels. |
 | The table top consists of two plates. They are framed with side ribs. It is required to do docking on the mustache. |
 | The stop is made from several parts. |
 | Large drawer design. |
 | Small drawer design. |
 | The order of installation of the elements of the front of the box. |
For the manufacture of such a machine, it will be necessary to perform the procurement of parts. Table 2 shows the equipment, blank dimensions and material.
Table 2: Accessories for making a router table
| Position on drawings | Name | Finished dimensions, final | Quantity | Material | ||
| Thickness, mm | Width, mm | Length, mm | ||||
| frame | ||||||
| 1 | Front and rear horizontal frames | 50 | 40 | 780 | 4 | Solid pine |
| 2 | Racks | 50 | 50 | 860 | 4 | Solid pine |
| 3 | Horizontal side frames | 50 | 40 | 550 | 4 | Solid pine |
| 4 | Front and rear horizontal | 50 | 20 | 750 | 2 | Solid pine |
| 5 | Frame for side windows, vertical | 50 | 50 | 380 | 4 | Solid pine |
| 6 | Frame for side windows, horizontal | 50 | 20 | 360 | 2 | Solid pine |
| Panels | ||||||
| 7 | Side panels | 6 | 740 | 518 | 2 | birch plywood |
| 8 | Sidebar windows | 6 | 600 | 393 | 2 | birch plywood |
| 9 | Bottom window | 6 | 600 | 400 | 1 | birch plywood |
| Large drawers | ||||||
| 10 | Side of drawer | 16 | 140 | 550 | 8 | Solid pine |
| 11 | 29 | 140 | 348 | 8 | Solid pine | |
| 12 | Drawer front | 7 | 168 | 348 | 4 | Solid ash |
| 13 | Bottom | 6 | 138 | 570 | 4 | birch plywood |
| Small drawers | ||||||
| 14 | Side of drawer | 16 | 100 | 550 | 8 | Solid pine |
| 15 | Drawer front and rear | 29 | 100 | 138 | 8 | Solid pine |
| 16 | Drawer front | 7 | 108 | 138 | 4 | Solid ash |
| 17 | Bottom | 6 | 570 | 348 | 4 | birch plywood |
| table top | ||||||
| 18 | Upper layer | 18 | 700 | 920 | 1 | birch plywood |
| 19 | Front and rear trim strips | 10 | 38 | 940 | 2 | Solid ash |
| 20 | Side trim strips | 10 | 38 | 720 | 2 | Solid ash |
| 21 | stop wall | 18 | 150 | 750 | 1 | birch plywood |
| 22 | stop base | 18 | 150 | 640 | 1 | birch plywood |
| 23 | Front stop bar | 10 | 90 | 380 | 2 | Solid ash |
| 24 | Upper face stop | 10 | 420 | 550 | 1 | Solid ash |
Design of the milling table
The desktop wood milling machine is shown below.
 | Structural study of the product in the programs of three-dimensional modeling. |
 | |
 | Back view. From a special box, installed on an emphasis, a hose comes out, connected to a vacuum cleaner. This is how the dust generated during the milling of workpieces is removed. |
 | |
 | At the moment, the finger cutter is raised as high as possible. The window is moved. |
 | The shutters are moved. The cutter itself is lowered down. |
 | Hand router, installed in the space under the tabletop. |
 | Structural execution of connections for dust removal (aspiration system). |
 | Tool mounting features. Chip ducts are visible. |
 | Installing a long screw. With it, the position of the cutters on the working surface is adjusted. |
 | Rotating the nut on the screw moves the router up or down. A socket wrench is used. |
 | With the help of a measuring tool, the vertical overhang of the cutter beyond the table is set. |
 | Regulation of the position of the cutter from the stop. |
 | Desktop. Fraser not installed. Only the plexiglass to which the router is attached is visible. |
 | The quality of the work. There are no gaps between the glass and the tabletop. |
 | Before installation in the table, the router is screwed to the support platform made of plexiglass. |
Option for making a table for a milling cutter
Quite an interesting design of the table. Here it was proposed to use a car jack to raise and lower the tool.
 | If you remove the tabletop from the cabinet box, you can see a similar performance. |
 | A car jack allows you to develop a force of several tons. It rests on a special box, where the milling cutter itself is located. |
 | This is what the top of the table looks like. There are emphasis. A groove is made on the surface, with an aluminum guide channel glued into it. |
 | A carriage can be installed in the groove. With its help, the part for processing can be fed at any angle. |
 | The parallel stop is fixed in the desired position with the help of wing nuts. In the horizontal plane there are grooves along which the thrust device is displaced along the working surface of the table. |
 | Box for connecting a vacuum cleaner. You can use not only industrial, but also household vacuum cleaners. |
 | The router itself is attached to the tabletop with a steel base plate. |
 | Features of fastening the tool to the plate can be seen in the presented photo. |
 | Rotating the handle of the jack, the master moves the router in the vertical direction. |
Detailed video about a homemade table.
Step-by-step production of a milling table based on a circular machine
There is a circular machine of industrial production. It was decided to modernize it for the possible installation of milling equipment. In this case, the basic design does not undergo any changes. The manufactured part is quite simple and removable, if necessary, it can be removed without any problems. In fact, a removable tabletop will be made.
Brief description of the device
 | The machine has a retractable wing. It is designed for cutting wide format sheets. Between the main part and the retractable there is a window that can be used to place additional technological equipment in it. |
 | By extending the wing to the maximum reach, you can install a tabletop with a router. Install option shown. |
 | After mounting the tabletop, the retractable wing is pressed closer to the main part of the machine. All gaps are removed. An additional tool can be fixed in this position. |
 | If you look from the side, you can see where the hand mill is located. |
 | A screwdriver is used to raise and lower the tool. It has a 13mm socket. It rotates the head of the M8 bolt. By setting the rotation in the desired direction, you can choose the direction of movement of the cutter (up or down). |
Removable countertop manufacturing technology
 | A laminated chipboard sheet is used as a countertop. Its thickness is 19 mm. The size is 360 540 mm. It corresponds to the size of the resulting window on the machine. Focusing on the sides, the center is determined. The milling shaft must be positioned in the center. It is attached with a reference pad in the selected location and the pad is outlined. |
 | A contour is formed on a chipboard sheet. It is necessary to accurately cut the window along this contour. |
 | In order to install the support pad tightly without gaps, you need to drill holes exactly along the edges of the markup. Holes are needed at all extreme points. |
 | The jigsaw cuts the window along the traced contour. In the presence of irregularities with the help of abrasive paper and a file, the walls are finalized. |
 | To install the router, you need two steel bars Ø 8 mm. Construction brackets are used. You only need to saw them off with an angle grinder cutting disc to a length of 255 mm. |
 | The router has holes where you can install rods. To make it easier to install them, the existing irregularities on the surface of the pins are removed with sandpaper. |
 | Having installed the tool exactly above the window, determine the places where the bars will be located during installation. But for them you need to cut special grooves. They are milled. Preparing for milling is required. |
 | Guide rails are attached using pistol-type clamps. Relative to them, the grooves for the pins will be milled. The depth relative to the surface is also set so that on the front of the table the support platform of the router comes out exactly flush with the tabletop. |
 | Having completed the milling on one side, proceed to a similar operation for the second bar. The guide rails are also installed here and fixed in the desired position. |
 | From above, the bars must be pressed with the help of clamping bars. Therefore, it will be necessary to prepare a groove where these wooden elements will be installed. First, they are cut out and tried on in place. Then mark and mill the groove of the desired size. |
 | Once in place, the bars will be securely and tightly pressed into their grooves. |
 | It can be seen that the recess under the slats was made to a smaller depth. Structurally, it was intended from the very beginning. |
 | The cutter is installed in its place. It is clearly positioned relative to the tabletop used. After fixing, it will stand in a given place without the possibility of movement in any direction. |
 | Since the production is carried out in an experimental mode, each stage is checked by pre-assembly of structural elements. At the moment, it is being tested how the wooden planks will press the bars and fix the tool in place. |
 | M8 bolts will be used for fixing. They have a secret head. To simplify installation, wing nuts will be used. They screw on without using a key. Along the way, such a solution allows, when tightening, to adjust the flatness of the sole of the router on the front side. |
 | Pressing the parts in place on the reverse side with the help of clamps, holes are drilled. Special markup was not performed, therefore, to facilitate assembly, mating fragments are marked with markers of different colors.. The countersink drills the holes on the working surface of the table under the conical heads of the screws. |
 | On the inside of the clamping bars, the holes are drilled to Ø 15 mm. M8 nuts will be hidden here. Additionally, an auxiliary groove is machined using a round file. It will allow you to press the bars more tightly. |
 | Bolts are in place. Nuts are tightened. They will hide in the prepared holes. The assembly and disassembly process will not take much time. The bolts will always be in this position. |
 | Now all the elements are easily installed in their places. Additional fitting is not needed. |
 | The tabletop can be tried on on the table. Therefore, it is first laid with the working surface down. You will need to turn it over to see how it fits on the machine. |
 | The revolution is easy. The table top is in place. |
 | She stood flush with the main table of the circular machine. If you drown the cutters, then the additional part will not interfere with the work on sawing parts. Important! The manufactured device did not worsen the properties of the main machine, on which the installation is provided. |
 | Cutting windows and milling ancillary space inside the countertop noticeably weakened it. So reinforcement is needed. To increase the strength of the manufactured attachment, it was decided to use additional bars. They are cut into the desired size on a sawing machine. |
 | After sawing the longitudinal and transverse bars, they are screwed to the countertop. Pre-lubricated with glue, and then fixed with screws. All holes are pre-drilled with a Ø 3 mm drill and then countersunk to fit the head of a Ø 8 mm self-tapping screw. Galvanized wood screws are used. |
 | By placing the tabletop on the machine, you can see that the parallel stop will not be able to move along its guides. The design of the countertop itself needs to be finalized. |
 | The surface to be removed is marked. This removal can be done with a milling cutter or with two passes on a circular saw. |
 | After completing the preparation, the countertop is put back in place. To make it easier to work at this stage, the milling cutter and accessories have been removed from it. |
 | After removing the excess, the parallel fence can move around the entire table. It was decided to use it as a clamp for milling. You only have to modify the auxiliary elements a little. |
Making a lift for a milling tabletop
 | It is necessary to make several auxiliary elements that will help move the router up and down. The view of the manufactured elevator is shown. |
 | Turning it over, you can see the features of the device. Supports and levers are visible. You need to figure out what and how will work here. |
 | The arrow shows a fixed stand. It bears the main load from the tool. Therefore, there are special requirements for it. It must be strong enough. She will have to counteract the weight of the router, as well as the return springs that are installed on this tool. |
 | This arrow points to the axis. The lever can rotate relative to it. The router itself “hangs” on this lever. |
 | The design of the lever has a feature. There is a radial bulge here. It rests on the part of the router where there are no ventilation holes. Additionally, it has a thickening in the plastic case, so the pressure will not violate the integrity of the tool design. |
 | A nut is located in the bar shown. If you turn the screw, the bar will move. A bracket is placed between the lever and the bar. Steel hinges are installed at its ends. They allow you to adjust the dimensions of all parts of the elevator. |
 | Another important element. It contains the head of the bolt. It rests on a bearing. Therefore, it can be rotated in any direction without much effort. |
 | The main support post will be cut out of 20 mm thick plywood. |
 | So that the stand does not move in any direction during operation, it is reinforced with additional scarves. The result is a product that resembles a rocket. It remains only to assemble such a device. |
 | "Rocket" will be installed on one side of the existing window. |
 | For the manufacture of the bracket, plywood with a thickness of 20 and 10 mm is used. The outer plates of ten mm plywood are screwed to the lever. Previously, the joint planes are coated with PVA glue. |
 | On the reverse side of the window, a bearing housing will be installed. |
 | Before assembling, the surfaces of the “rocket” supports are coated with glue. |
 | The support legs are screwed with a long self-tapping screw (75 mm). |
 | Holes for additional fasteners are drilled on the reverse side of the tabletop. Such reinforcement is justified, the resistance of the milling cutter springs reaches up to 200 N (20 kg). |
 | 4 more self-tapping screws are screwed, the length of which is 60 mm. Attention! When installing self-tapping screws on the front side, countersinking of the holes is mandatory. |
 | The bar is drilled through. A drill Ø 10 mm is used. |
 | Here you will need to install a captive nut. To prevent sharp edges from damaging the bar itself, drill holes Ø 2.5 mm to a depth of 1.5 mm. |
 | The nut is pressed into place. To do this, a bar with a nut is placed between the jaws of a vise and squeezed until the nut is finally seated in place. |
 | The part gets the look you want. The nut is firmly fixed on the bar. The strength is sufficient for the normal performance of this structural element of the elevator. |
 | To install the bolt head, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 20 mm. Here, in the future, a socket head will be used, so a hole is prepared with some margin. The drilling depth is 16 mm (chipboard 19 mm thick). Important! Plywood 20 mm thick is installed from below. Therefore, the strength of the structure will not be compromised. |
 | After drilling a blind hole, a through hole is drilled. Its diameter is 8.5 mm. This is where the bearing and bolt will be installed. |
 | A nut is placed between the bolt head and the bearing. A sealed bearing is used, which will not be able to get chips and dust. |
 | Turning the table top over reveals a long bolt (180 mm). It must be fixed so that it can rotate. |
 | A washer is installed, and then a nut with a fluoroplastic insert is tightened. The installed fluoroplastic will not allow it to unwind. It is not tightly placed, there is a gap of about 0.5 mm. It will allow the bolt to rotate and transmit forces in any direction. |
 | There is a gap between the end of the bolt and the lever that needs to be filled. Need a bracket and overhead loops. |
 | Conventional loops are not enough, you will need to install additional straps. |
 | The length of these strips is selected. |
 | Self-tapping screws are screwed into the bar. Loops will be put on them. |
 | After putting on the loop, it will not be able to remove itself from the head of the self-tapping screw. In the hinges, the existing groove is narrower than the hole, on which the hat from the hardware is put on. |
 | It remains to assemble the entire structure of the elevator. All structural elements, which were mentioned earlier, are made. |
 | By installing the tabletop in the window of the machine, you can check the performance of the elevator design. A screwdriver is used, in which a socket head is installed at 13. By starting rotations in one direction or another, the cutter moves up or down. Using a measuring tool, you can set the depth of milling grooves on parts. |
Making fixtures for a parallel stop
 | An additional element is cut out of the bar. It will serve as a guide for milling. |
 | Half of the circle is selected on the drilling machine. The cutter will “hide” in it. |
 | Attached fragment is ready. It remains only to fix it to the parallel stop. |
 | The easiest way is to use pistol-type clamps. They fix the attached element. You can mill grooves or quarters. |
 | The milling table is ready for the machine. It expands the functional properties of the base machine. |
Such a removable tabletop can be installed in any suitable cabinet. Then you get a separate milling machine made at home. This device is characterized by the greatest simplicity and reliability.
Table designs for the router may be different. Different masters equip their devices with different types of elevators. Even stops, depending on the needs, can have their own execution. You just need to choose the one that will be convenient for performing a certain job.
Some professionals use different types of stops. The choice is determined by the type of cutters used and the purpose of future parts.
The video shows the option of self-manufacturing a table to accommodate the router.
The milling table will facilitate your work and help to increase the accuracy of processing workpieces. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a router table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared for you a fairly detailed step-by-step instruction for making a table.
The essence of all the designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and execute it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.
Decide on the size of the work surface, starting from the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small by building a simple countertop with upgradeability in mind. Work on it and gradually bring to mind.
Make a tabletop
The simplest table for a milling cutter is a separate work plate, placed on carpentry goats or between cabinets. The fixture costs a penny and is made in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. You only need MDF or birch plywood 19-25 mm thick. A plastic-coated panel is better suited, which has less friction resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation.
Set the exact right angle of the cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to the dimensions and grind the ends.
Cutting pattern: 1 - main plate; 2 - stop base; 3 - front wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)
Advice. Before cutting, measure the thickness of the sheet material, which often differs from the standard. Make adjustments to the drawings, eliminating problems during assembly of the structure.
Remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router.
Draw a line in the middle of the slab and mark 235 mm from the edge.
Place the overlay so that the router's main controls are next to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the lining with the marked point and mark the places for drilling the holes for the mounting screws.
Determine the center location for the sole with equidistant screws.
For a base with asymmetrical screws, measure the diameter of the rubber and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.
Draw a line with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:
- S=D/2-(D-H)
Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.
Mark the mounting screw locations.
Drill mounting holes and under the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.
Cut out the bends with an electric saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly leading to the marking line. Then lead the file a little closer to the contour line - the pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the canvas. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.
Fasten the connecting strips from the bottom of the tabletop.
Glue all the blanks and fasten with additional screws. Pick up screws longer than the regular ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router at the bottom of the slab.
1 - side bar for fastening with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base
Fix the table on the goats with clamps, fix the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.
Build a solid foundation
The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. A portable table is stored on a rack, and is fixed on a workbench for work. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the table top and get a full-fledged machine.
Cut the cabinet pieces to the dimensions shown for a 820mm high table, or modify them so that the tabletop is level with other equipment .
Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 - inner panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base
Lay the tabletop upside down. Install side panels in sequence and fasten them with screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Fasten the base, lay the frame face down, align the square corners and install the two back panels.
At the end, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the hull using roofing screws. Position the wheel mounting pads at least 20 mm from the edges.
1 - side stand; 2 - wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 - internal rack; 5 - rear panel
Use free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.
Insert mounting plate
Get a longer cutter overhang by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinaks or solid polycarbonate.
Cut out a 300 mm square from the sheet, put it on a workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. With a drill of the same diameter as the fixing screws, drill holes in the plate using the plastic pad as a template. Remove the sole, make recesses for the caps with a countersink or a large drill.
Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the body of the tool until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and make a hole according to the mark with a hole saw.
Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Draw and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through the drilled hole. Trim the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.
Fix the thin boards around the marked contour with clamps.
Clamp the copy cutter with bearing in the collet, set the milling depth according to the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer regulator of the router and make the final pass.
Drill through holes for the screws and widen them from the back of the worktop with a 11 mm drill bit for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts on the epoxy, leveling with the screwed bolts.
Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, lay it in place, drill the fixing holes and countersink from the front. Attach the part to the sole of the router, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the tabletop plane, if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.
Improve your focus
For faster and more convenient setup of the machine, modify the parallel side stop and complete the machine with a rotary stop, which helps to process the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum guides with a T-profile into the surface of the plate. To make cutouts in the countertop, use a router or a circular saw with a slotted disc.
Lightly round the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, process them with a countersink. Insert the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten the countersunk screws.
Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, pick up hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.
Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop to secure the clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.
Cut out a plywood cover with a hole in the center, fasten it to the scarves located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the milling table.
Add a safety shield to the stop, made from plywood trim and a strip of plexiglass.
To make oblong cuts, drill 7 mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangentially and make cuts with a jigsaw.
Make homemade clamps and clamps needed for milling small elements.
A comb press can be made from maple wood, choosing a straight-grained area. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular machine:
- Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
- Set the cutting width to 2mm.
- Make a cut.
- Pull the workpiece back with the manual pusher.
- Turn the board 180°, saw through the other side.
- Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
- Move the fence back again and make cuts all over the workpiece.
Secure the clamps to the rail with bolts and wing nuts.
1 - stopper; 2 - clamp-comb; 3 - protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - nozzle for a vacuum cleaner
Sand the surfaces of parts, especially in places where workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and cover with oil.
1 - drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop
Summing up the project
Materials needed:
- Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
- Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
- Several dozen screws.
- Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
- Wheel support with brake — 4 pcs.
- Glue joiner's and epoxy.
- Bolts M6 with nuts.
The ability to take your time and think through every step, accurately mark and cut blanks, or the desire to learn this, came in handy. The result is a solid milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a milling height adjustment mechanism.
I made this table from 18 mm. plywood. Its thickness is enough to make the design very durable. To strengthen the structural elements, I used a metal corner with a section of 40x40 mm.
The tabletop has dimensions of 800x500 mm. A hole is cut in the center to match the size of the milling cutter sole. The sidewalls are attached to the tabletop on the corners with self-tapping screws. From below, the sidewalls are also connected with the help of corners and self-tapping screws. 4 holes 10 mm drilled in the tabletop. and driven nuts for fastening the combs are installed. A fork and a switch are made in the right sidewall for easy starting of the router. The "Start" button on the router itself is blocked.
The sole of the router is fastened with screws to a steel plate 2 mm thick. and size 200x200 mm. A recess is made in the tabletop and the plate is placed flush on top, attached to the tabletop with self-tapping screws. A hole with a diameter of 50 mm is sawn out in the center of the plate.
A car jack was used to raise and lower the milling cutter. It is attached to the base of the table with self-tapping screws. The handle has been replaced with a homemade handwheel for smoother adjustment. The jack is not attached to the milling cutter in any way.
The guide rail is also made from plywood. Assembled with "Moment-joiner" glue and reinforced with self-tapping screws. In the middle part of the ruler there is a box with a hole for attaching the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner. Adjustment grooves are cut out on the sides of the ruler. 10 mm bolts are inserted into the tabletop, the ruler is attached to the bolts with eye nuts.
The combs are sawn from fir and serve to more tightly press the workpiece to the guide. Grooves are cut in the comb for moving along the countertop. To fix the combs to the tabletop, bolts with bushings are used.
To prevent the workpiece from moving up and down, a special spring stop is made of plywood. It is attached to the guide rail on the wing nuts.
That's the whole structure. And you can see more about this table in my film.