A wooden mallet can be used for a variety of purposes, but the main uses are carpentry and carpentry. For example, a wooden mallet will be needed to assemble tenon joints. The fact is that when struck with an ordinary metal hammer, serious dents are left, which then have to be sanded out or puttied. A wooden hammer does not leave such pinpoint dents.
We will make a wooden mallet with our own hands. Oddly enough, there are quite a lot of options for assembling such a tool. The fact is that for different purposes, the shape and weight of the product may differ significantly. It's one thing to use a heavy mallet in construction, for carpentry work. And wood carving is a completely different thing, I mean creating sculptural compositions.
Let's try to take a mallet as a sample standard view, one might say the basic model.
Among other things, this option is the most universal.
First you need to select two blanks, for the handle and the head. The material can be used from different breeds tree. Some people only make oak mallets, but from my own experience I’ll say that it’s too dense wood leaves marks on wooden parts from soft rocks.
Therefore, appropriate material is selected for different purposes. It can be oak, beech, birch, pear from hard rocks, or maple, alder, cedar for softer ones.
The photo shows a mallet made of oak.
General dimensions of a wooden mallet: Head - length 130 mm. , width 90 mm. , thickness 60 mm. . Length including handle 350 mm. .
You can make a beveled surface at the ends of the mallet. This is more convenient when cutting out nests and other work with a chisel and chisel. Usually they make a bevel angle of 6-8 *, but that’s what you like.
Next, we make markings in the center of the mallet to hollow out a through socket.
Most reliable option fastening is when the handle goes onto the cone and is inserted from above. This is how sledgehammers, picks, splitting axes and mason's picks are mounted.
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Handle thickness 20-22 mm. , width 30-32 mm. , or so.
According to this section, we mark the nest on both sides of the head and cut out the nest with a chisel, cleaning it with chisels.
Then we adjust the cross-section of the handle to the socket so that it fits into the cone from above.
The main error that may appear during assembly is a mismatch between the cone of the handle and the socket. Of course, you can give up and make a new one, but in general, if desired, everything can be adjusted.
If the handle at the bottom is installed with gaps, then wedges must be cut and driven into them. An optimist can even glue them in, but I think it’s better to leave the opportunity to immobilize a mallet that is loose on the handle with these wedges. If the gaps are large, then it is better to glue the wedge on one side and finish it off with the other when fixing it.
Homemade wooden oak mallet. You can also make a toy for a child, see how to assemble a fake one.
All wooden handles on hand tool, I make it from well-dried birch, including for hammers. For hammers weighing 300-400 grams, a rectangular block, 350 millimeters long, with sides 40x30, is sufficient. Measure the internal jaw of the hammer head. After finishing, you should get a block with sides approximately 35x25. On one side of the block, mark the center (with lines from corner to corner). Around this center, build a rectangle with sides equal to the hole on the hammer in width and height. Bend the edges and faces of the block with a plane from the back of the future handle to the sides of the rectangle drawn at the end. Chamfer the corners and round them. Using sandpaper, adjust the front edge of the handle to the size of the hole in the hammer so that it fits tightly.
The lines at the end of the handle that we drew to construct the rectangle will now become marks for the place of the wedges. Take a chisel and make notches along them, so that the notches do not reach closer than 5 mm to the edge of the handle, otherwise the wedges may split the handle.
We drive in wedges crosswise - first wooden and then iron. For a wooden wedge I use resinous pine; it “sticks” well to the birch handle.
None paints and varnishes I don’t use it for impregnation. I don't feel comfortable when the handle slides. A new handle mounted on a hammer, including its end parts, is impregnated a couple of times with clean machine oil, drying a day between layers. The handle of such a hammer does not absorb water, even if left in the rain, it does not make your hand freeze in the cold season, and as a kind of aesthetic addition, it has a beautiful amber color - this color is obtained from staining birch with oil.
Greetings to all readers who love to craft. This article will tell you how to independently, with your own hands, make an analogue of a rubber hammer, such as is used in a neurologist’s office. Of course, you can buy a similar hammer in a specialized medical store, but instead of wasting time searching for such a store with this tool, the author suggests spending this time making it yourself. In addition, you will most likely be able to save a lot, since the materials needed to make the hammer are quite cheap. In addition, the manufacturing process is quite simple and does not take much time.
Before you begin, you need to collect everything necessary materials to create an analogue of a rubber hammer from a neurologist’s office and prepare the necessary tools:
List of materials:
-4 hot glue sticks (30 cm long and 11 mm in diameter)
-Some amount of water
-Steel rod with threaded end
-A glass pill bottle, its diameter will correspond to the size of the hammer head, so you need to select it based on this parameter.
-Soap
- a couple of plastic bags
-Glass tumbler
Required tools:
-Hot glue gun
-Wooden vice
-Drill diameter 10 mm
-Utility knife
-Hammer
As well as electrical appliances:
-Microwave
-Fridge
-Drill
Work must be carried out strictly in a ventilated or well-ventilated area. When working with you need to wear leather gloves, as well as safety glasses.
Estimated cost of materials used is about $2.5
No special skills are required for work.
Production time is about 3 hours, of which most I had to wait for the glue to cool.
Let's consider detailed description process of making an analogue of a rubber hammer:
Step one: Heating a glass of water
First you need to heat a glass of water. This will protect the glass from cracking, since in the future it will experience some temperature changes. The next step will involve pouring hot glue into the jar. Therefore, if the jar is cold, then there is a high probability that due to a sharp jump in temperature it will crack and glue will spill out through the crack. And this is highly undesirable. Also, preheating the jar will allow the glue to cool more slowly, and it will have time to be evenly distributed throughout the jar.
Therefore, the author put a glass of water in the microwave for a couple of minutes, although you can use a kettle or saucepan for the same purposes.
Then a vial was immersed in a glass of water. This must be done slowly and smoothly to avoid cracks.
Step two: Pouring hot glue into a glass bottle
Then the heated glue was poured into the prepared vial. In this process, it is important to ensure that water does not get inside the bubble, otherwise the hammer head will not be of the correct shape.
Step three: Cooling of glue.
After the glue has been poured into the bottle, it must be cooled to harden. You just need to leave the glass with a bubble of glue on the table for one hour. After an hour, when it has cooled down and becomes slightly warm, you can place the bottle in the refrigerator, this will significantly speed up the hardening process of the hot-melt adhesive.
Step four: take out the workpiece.
When the glue has completely cooled down, a completely cold bottle will help you understand this; you will need to remove the workpiece from the bottle. To do this, the author wrapped the bottle in several plastic bags to prevent the fragments from scattering, and broke the bottle by throwing it on the floor. It turned out to be not so easy to break the bottle; the author threw it five times.
Step five: cleaning the workpiece.
In this case, the glass of the vial stuck quite strongly to the adhesive blank, so I had to tinker a bit with cleaning. When working with glass fragments, the author advises using leather gloves to avoid injury. The remaining glass was removed using a regular hammer.
Step six: washing the glue blank.
Still, small pieces of glass or dirt may remain on the workpiece, so it would be better to rinse it under running water. For the best effect, wash the workpiece with soap several times, then wipe dry with a towel.
Step seven: Correction of the workpiece shape.
Since the bubble has a neck, the hot-melt adhesive blank turned out to be not symmetrical. The excess flow was removed using utility knife. The result was a symmetrical, neat blank for the top of the hammer.
Step eight: Drilling a hole and attaching the handle.
To assemble the hammer, you need to attach the head to the handle. To attach the handle, you need to make a hole in the adhesive blank. To avoid damaging the top while drilling a hole, it is better to secure the workpiece in a wooden vice. After the pommel was securely fastened, the author drilled a hole for the handle about two centimeters deep into the workpiece. After which the handle was screwed into this hole.
It's hard to imagine a house without a hammer. This tool is an indispensable item. It will hammer a nail, help crack nuts, and sometimes you can’t do without it in plumbing work.
However, there are times when it is broken or only one head remains. And it is simply necessary to perform work that involves a hammer.
Therefore, you need to figure out how to make a hammer with your own hands.
Using a Hammer
The history of the origin of the hammer goes back centuries. It was still used primitive people. They found him the best various applications. Used in construction, mining, hunting.
By changing the hammer, you can trace how humanity developed. Mostly, the change affected only the material from which it was created. But the design itself remained unchanged
Exists great amount types of hammers that are used in various fields human life activity. So, it is used in medicine, construction, cooking, and plumbing. In these areas you cannot do without a hammer. However, each area has its own certain type hammer.
The most popular and in demand is a regular hammer, which is used in everyday life. Its popularity is explained by the fact that it is multifunctional and versatile.
Its main goal is to increase the power of a human strike. In addition to being needed for driving nails, it is also an indispensable assistant For others construction tools. For such as punches, chisels, chisels.
The following work is performed with a hammer
- nails are driven in;
- crush tiles or concrete;
- make holes;
- straightens or bends metal objects.
Hammer design
The photo of the hammer shows that it consists of two parts
- lever
- striker
The handle can be made of the following materials
- tree
- plastic
- metal.
In the production of the striker they use
- steel;
- copper;
- lead;
- tree;
- rubber.
Its shape and size depend on the area in which it is used. And the cost of the hammer is greatly influenced by the shape of the striker.
The square one is much cheaper than round form. Since its striking part has much clearer accuracy, as well as greater impact power. The speed of any hammer can only be adjusted by a person.
How to make a hammer
The tool begins to be made from the handle. Since the firing pin itself is usually there. Making it at home is problematic. Therefore, you should not throw away your old hammer heads.
The handle is easiest to make from wood. The following tree species are suitable for this: 3t
- birch;
- maple;
- Rowan;
Note!
To make it you need a block of wood. The size depends on how long the hammer is needed. The handle itself is turned from the block. Afterwards, be sure to sand it so that later there is no discomfort during the work, and the skin on your hands is not damaged.
The prepared wood must be thoroughly dried and then varnished. The drying room is selected carefully. Since it must comply with the basic rules:
- good ventilation;
- absence large quantity sun rays;
- constant positive temperature.
It is important that wood should not be dried using artificial lighting. Since it can be deformed and its size can change greatly.
The next stage is the most difficult, connecting the handle to the striker. The narrowed end of the handle must be inserted into the head of the hammer with some effort.
There are often cases when the tip does not fit correctly. When making the handle, it turned out to be a little larger. It’s not scary; using a rasp, you can process it to the desired size, and then sand it so that the surface is smooth.
Note!
The firing pin is mounted perpendicular to the base of the handle. In this case, the structure must be kept in an upright position.
The head is mounted using gradual blows against hard surface, until the handle fits tightly into the head. That's it, the hammer is ready to use.
Making a hammer yourself is not difficult, the main thing is desire. Of course, you can buy a new hammer in the store, but this does not fully guarantee that the connection between the head and the handle will not break again. Therefore, it is advisable to make a hammer with your own hands.
Photo of a hammer with your own hands
Note!
V.A.VOLKOV. Dedicated to T.V. Cherkasova
Interceptions, Knocks. Changes. Breaks Interruptions Busts Overflows Thunders Rumble. Calls Scream. Murmur. Stomp. Whisper. Laughter...
A percussion tool is a tool that is used to strike during work, directly or through a stand-in tool. Hand percussion instruments include hammers, sledgehammers, and mallets.
A hammer is the most common tool. It is found in virtually every apartment and house. But precisely because of their necessity and versatility, there are many designs of hammers for a specific purpose: metalworking, carpentry, carpentry, etc.
Bench hammers
They (Fig. 1) are the most mass production. They are convenient for delivering blows for a variety of jobs: hammering, bending, flattening, etc.
Rice. 1. Bench hammers: a - with a round head; b - with a square striker
Bench hammers (Table 1) are produced with round (Fig. 1a) and square strikers (Fig. 16).
Table 1
Note. Hammer heads with a square striker are also manufactured with a mass of 50 and 100 g, respectively, with L 200 and 250 mm at H equal to 75 and 82 mm under No. 1 and 2.
Hammer No. 1 with a round striker is recommended for “delicate” work such as marking, wallpaper, etc., and hammers No. 2, 3, 4 - for metalwork, “nailing”, etc. home loads. Hammers No. 5 and 6 with the same striker are used for “heavy” tasks, for example, driving staples into logs.
A number 1 square hammer is suitable for nailing when glazing. Only the nail should be placed parallel to the glass, otherwise it will crack.
Steel construction hammers
These hammers, depending on their purpose, are manufactured in many types, which are listed in table. 2 and in Fig. 2.
Carpenter's hammers are used for woodworking using chisels, chisels and other tools. The main part of the body (Fig. 2a) is the firing pin, the auxiliary part is a wedge-shaped (with a one-sided concave bevel in the past) toe. The last ones to hammer in are nails in grooves, narrow places, etc.
Rice. 2. Steel construction hammers: a - carpentry type MST; 6 - carpentry type MPL-1; c - carpenter type MPL-2; g - pickaxe type MKI-1; d - pickaxe type MKI-2; e - plaster type MShT-1; g - plaster type MShT-2; h - parquet type MPA; and - parquet type MPA VNIISMI Minstroydormash; k - roofing type MKR-1 and MKR-2; l - roofing type MKR-3; m - slate type MSHI 1; n - slate type MSHI-2; o - slate Yushchenko; n - tiled MPLI-1 type; r - tiled type MPPI-2; c - entrench type MSHA-1; t * - trench type MSHA-2; f - cam type MIU-1; x - cam type MKU-2; c - for notching concrete and brick surfaces; h - automated, driven by an internal combustion engine; 1 - body; 2 - wooden handle
; 3 - to the stumps; 4 - tubular rod; ! S - rubber handle; 6 - fitting; 7 - ring | see fig. 2-2, 2-3, 2-4, 2-5)
leads to it jumping off during the swing to strike. A body "floating" in the air causes terrible injuries. The rubber handle is glued tightly onto the shaft of the MPL-2 hammer. It slows down the sliding of the palm and softens the recoil upon impact.
Hammers of the MPL-1 type were produced in weights of 0.35 and 0.5 kg, now up to 0.8 kg.
Pick hammers (Fig. 2d, e) were produced with a weight of 0.4; 0.5; 0.6 kg with toe length up to 200 mm. If bricks are used as the material for these hammers, then the brick is crushed with a square striker, for example, when filling voids. Using a flat toe, they chop bricks into incomplete pieces when bandaging seams, laying jambs, belts, etc. The weight of modern hammers MKY-1 is up to 0.7 kg, MKI-2 is up to 1 kg.
Parquet hammers (Fig. 2h, i) are made different designs and masses.
Thus, the hammer (Fig. 2i) of the Georgievsk Stroyinstrument plant has a mass of 0.47 kg. A narrow strip of the protruding toe of the case thanks to the solid total area does not crush the wood along the edges of the parquet flooring. But with such a toe it is sometimes difficult to hit the head of a nail when laying parquet. The doboynik corrects the shortcomings of the hammer.
Roofing hammers (Fig. 2k, l), unlike most other types of hammers, are forged (Table 4). They maintain the integrity of the handle near the body. The sharp edges of the processed sheets would gradually split the handle.
Table 4 Roofing hammers according to GOST 11042-83
Note. The dimensions of the MKP-3 hammer are shown in Fig. 2l, its weight is up to 1.5 kg.
In the past, roofing hammers were made weighing 0.4; 0.5; 0.65 and 1.4 kg.
A modern automated hammer (Fig. 2h) is even different in appearance from a traditional one. They don't need to swing and hold the nail. It is enough to bring it to the selected point. The hammer will do the rest on command. The nail will be supplied from the store. The striker itself, with one blow, will drive the nail to the head.
The hammer mechanism is a cross between a pistol and... an internal combustion engine! The trigger is pressed, and at the same moment from a special pressure cylinder working chamber a portion of fuel is injected. An electric spark ignites it. A microexplosion occurs in the chamber. Its strength is transferred to the striker, which moves reciprocatingly.
The charge in the batteries and the fuel in the cylinder are enough for several hours of intensive work. Replacing the cylinder and battery is a matter of a few minutes. Such “toys” are produced in Finland.
A similar “work” can be made independently from a household tool with an electric drive that has a reciprocating motion. Well, let's say, from a hammer drill. The pneumatic drive is also applicable for the construction of “self-driving” hammers. But to use them, undoubtedly, you need a monotonous field of activity.
Sledgehammers
One hand usually operates the hammer. Although entrenching hammers (Fig. 2c, t) weighing up to 2... 2.5 kg cannot be moved without the application of the other hand when a series of blows is needed. The cam hammers are also approximately the same weight (Fig. 2f, x).
Sledgehammers are used to deliver strong blows with two hands. Blacksmithing is the main purpose of a sledgehammer. But you can’t do without a sledgehammer in garden and estate plots. It is the main tool for driving fence stakes, constructing a greenhouse, etc.
Blunt-nosed (Fig. 3) and sharp-nosed (Fig. 36) - this is the division of sledgehammers (Tables 5, 6). The first ones are more common in everyday life.
Blunt sledgehammers
Table 5
Weight, kg |
Dimensions, mm |
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Sharp-nosed sledgehammers
Table 6
Weight, kg |
Dimensions, mm |
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The hole on any type of sledgehammer is located at its center of gravity. According to figures 3a and 36, it has an oval shape with a two-sided slope of 1:10. This is done for better wedging of the wooden handle. Therefore, with independent creativity, the displacement of the hole in the sledgehammer along the limit axis is permissible within ±1.5...2 mm, and along the transverse axis - up to ±0.4...0.6 mm.
The length of the sledgehammer handle reaches 750... 900 mm. The wooden handle is good for small one-time jobs. There are many tricks for securing a sledgehammer to the handle. But they don’t last long and the fasteners come back. Yes! A sledgehammer that comes off the handle during a swing will kill or “spectacularly” injure the sledgehammer himself or someone standing next to him...
Follow safety precautions!
Secure the sledgehammers to the handle!
It is permissible to forget about the “friendship” of the sledgehammer and the handle when they are tightly connected. To achieve this, the handle is selected from a suitable steel pipe. A seamless water and gas pipe is preferable. The absence of a longitudinal seam on the outer surface of the pipe indicates that it is seamless.
Rice. 3. Sledgehammers: a - blunt-nosed; 6 - pointed-nosed.
The end of the metal handle is slightly flattened so that it fits into the oval hole of the sledgehammer. Then the “queen” - electric welding will complete the deed. I warn you right away that you can’t do without welding! The end of the pipe handle does not need to be welded. There, while the sledgehammer is “resting,” you can place the tool.
Homemade hammer bodies
It is not always necessary to use a hammer. It all depends on what kind of bullshit is needed. This is what the sledgehammer was called back in the last century. Naturally occurring cobblestone is sometimes sufficient (Fig. 4) to hammer something down. Brick rarely fits; it crumbles too quickly. This is a modern brick, but in the Middle Ages and earlier the brick was 2... 3 times smaller and stronger. Drive the nails calmly.
A piece of pipe, a piece of hexagon or square steel, a railway spike for securing rails to wooden sleepers, a large bolt, etc. - all this replaces the hammer in certain circumstances.
Piece water and gas pipe with an outer diameter of, say, 21 mm, a length of 200... 300 mm, with a pipe thread onto which the valve body is screwed (Fig. 4), or a valve assembly with a shortened or removed rod, altogether reminiscent of a hammer.
Rice. 4. Quickly made homemade hammers: 1 - cobblestone (primitive design); 2 - valve; 3 - steel pipe; 4 - flywheel-crossbar
The flywheels (Fig. 4) of some water taps and valves are a brass crossbar with a square hole in the middle. This flywheel just begs to be turned into a miniature hammer. Sharpening one end of the flywheel with a file or sharpener will create the toe of the hammer body. Giving the striker a square shape will also expand the applicability of the production tool.
Semenikhin's hammer is made of a steel rod (Fig. 5) of square or hexagonal cross-section with dimensions between parallel edges from 16 to 24 mm. It is advisable to use the following grades of steel for the manufacture of the hammer body: U7, U8, 45, 50, 60, etc. An electric sharpener allows you to fairly accurately determine the grade of steel by sparks. “Ordinary” steel with a low carbon content, if the striker is used frequently, will lead to the appearance of “roses” on its edges.
The striker of Semenikhin's hammer, like the factory strikers, has a spherical convexity, which allows for better contact with the object being struck. Instantaneous load is at the striker axis point. This axis passes through the center of mass.
Rice. 5. Semenikhin’s hammer: a - distribution shock load on the striker; b - body; c - base of the handle; g - handle assembly (option); d - diagram of the connection between the body and the handle (option)
In addition to the composition of the steel material, hardening also contributes to strengthening the toe and striker of the body. Brought to required sizes the body is heated in a muffle or some other suitable furnace to a temperature of 730... 830°C. The temperature can be determined by the color of the body, which is close to cherry.
The body is taken with pliers with long handles and the hands are smoothly lowered into the water, raising the head proudly. Hot splashes possible. Goggles are the preferred eye protection. Mittens are put on hands.
The cooled and dried body is cleaned with abrasive sandpaper. But the body is also colored using tarnished colors. The cleaned body is placed back into the oven for heating. The colors on the body will appear in the following sequence: light and dark yellow, brown and purple-red, violet, cornflower blue, gray. The desired color is “grabbed” by removing the body and placing it on a metal base. Wiping with an oily rag forms a resistant film on the body, which will also protect against corrosion. The entire range of colors listed is achievable within the heating range of the housing from 220 to 330°C.
Making a hammer body yourself is a labor-intensive undertaking. A vice, an electric drill, files, a hacksaw, a caliper, a ruler - this is the minimum set of tools. A piece of metal for the body blank is marked according to the drawing or the drawings given here. Depending on the available equipment, they begin with filing surfaces or drilling holes. The final hole for the handle is made at the minimum of two in advance drilled holes, because it is oval.
A number of hammer designs (Fig. b) are “dedicated” to eliminating impact recoil. Various moving masses (liquid, shot, mercury, rod, etc.) inside the body or handle absorb recoil. Making the handle or part of it in the form of a flat spring also helps reduce recoil (Fig. b). Rechitsky told readers about similar hammers in his book “Profession - Inventor.” The production of such hammers is quite accessible to craftsmen.
Homemade handles
The handle plays no less a role in the productive operation of the hammer than the body. Although in isolated cases the body will fulfill its purpose without a handle. Its dimensions largely depend on the age, height and physique of the “manager” of the hammer. It is customary to say that one hammer is handy, the other is not. Why? Few will answer this question. Let's add an explanation.
Rice. 6. Homemade hammers that absorb recoil from impact: a - with a ball; 6 - mercury; c - a weight with a spring;
The thickness of the handle depends on the length of the fingers of the “user”. Anyone can choose the best thickness without difficulty (Fig. 76). The length of the handle is also selected by touch, which only partly depends on the weight of the hammer. The hand experiences a shock or sharp shock with each blow from a short or too long handle. Vibrations cause rapid fatigue and affect the strength and confidence of the fight. Therefore, first they plan out a deliberately long handle. In a trial battle, they find the most convenient capture site. The excess part of the handle is sawed off so that a free end 35 cm long remains behind the hand. In general, the heavier the body, the longer the handle is made.
Rice. 7. Homemade handles: a - defective; b - choice of thickness and length; c - modern style handles;
g - old design; d - with indentations on the ax handle to prevent palms from slipping
Not everyone loves experiments. Well, there are recommendation tables. One, tab. 7, - about modern-style handles (Fig. 7c) of a cone shape. The second is table. 8 - about the handles of an old model (Fig. 7d). This handle, among other advantages, is safer. Its thickened end prevents the tool from slipping out of the fist.
Dimensions, mm |
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Table 7 Handles for round hammers
Notes: 1) some sizes are rounded; 2) the table has been shortened.
Homemade handles, sadly enough, are planed from found “scavenger” material. And there is no breed autograph on it. How to be? I advise you to check the “nationality” of the wood with a nail. It will even penetrate dry coniferous wood without difficulty under the influence of something heavy. Relatively rare deciduous “aristocrats” (beech, hickory, etc.) will yield only to the prolonged onslaught of the “plebeian” nail. How can one not remember its merits? The second sign of purebred, “blue blood” wood is the purpose, shape, and finishing of the found piece. They still try to produce furniture from noble breeds. Therefore, the legs and crossbars, for example of chairs and tables, - excellent material
for handles. Broken hockey sticks also apply for further use. They are, however, from multilayer plywood
. This requires a variety of tools to process them, and securing the body to the hammer handle will not be entirely ordinary (Fig. 8h).
Handles for hammers according to OST 90028-39, mm
Handles for hammers with square heads have slight differences in size with the data given in table. 7. Therefore, there is no special table on handles for hammers with square heads. The material for the handle plays an important role in its quality. GOST 11 042-83 allows the use of hardwood lumber for hammer handles. Young oak, white beech, maple, etc. go to the production of handles. Birch and ash are less acceptable.
The handles are made exclusively from dry and viscous material, which can subsequently take on a natural polish. Cracks, rot, sprouts and wormholes are unacceptable. Two fused healthy knots with a diameter of no more than 5 mm at a distance of 2/3 of the length of the handle from the side of the free end can still sometimes be seen, but not on handles for tile hammers. Knots on the handles of these hammers are generally prohibited. Sagging, cavities, bubbles, dents and wallpaper are also not found on factory-made handles.
Suitable branches of purebred trees will give and increase the longevity of the handle. The bark here will act as a constriction tube. Such handles, however, will not correspond to the recommended ones (Fig. 7). Moreover, the handles will be rough, which, according to our “guide” books, will cause calluses. Maybe. It all depends on how and how much you work. However, you should sometimes look around for comparison. No. There is no need to move beyond the cordon. The shelves of domestic stores will surprise you. The handles of overseas axes, say, at the grip site, have specially drilled recesses (Fig. 7e), which prevents the palm from sliding. A number of domestic hammers with tubular rods (Fig. 2 c, e, g, n) are equipped with rubber handles for this purpose. By the way, spitting on the palm also slows down their “shift”.
Rice. 8. Fastening the body to the hammer handle: a - slopes of the body hole; 6 - wooden wedge; c - a metal wedge with “petals” along the edges; g - one click; d - two wedges; e - three wedges; g - screws or nails; 3 - steel wire.
The standard technology for manufacturing the handle is as follows:
- 1) marking the workpiece according to the drawing, taking into account the processing allowance;
- 2) filing the surface leaving an allowance;
- 3) planing of the workpiece leaving a minimum allowance;
- 4) surface treatment with sandpaper until the minimum allowance is removed;
- 5) surface coating with enamels bright colors or varnish, oiling is also acceptable.
A freshly made handle can also be dried in hot smoke or heated strongly in front of a fire. Then - sanding with medium-grain sandpaper and fine emery cloth. Rubbing with wood shavings until a gloss appears - last operation in surface finishing. If there is no skin, the surface of the handle is smoothly scraped with fragments of window glass.
Attaching the body to the handle
Bench hammers (Fig. 1) are the most common in everyday life. If you carefully examine the holes in the housings, you will see that each hole at the inputs has an expansion-slope (Fig. 8a), and between the expansions there is an oval belt. Clear? The narrowed part of the handle is squeezed through the belt until it comes out on the other side of the hole to a length of approximately 2 mm (GOST 11042-83, p. 21).
To make it easier for the handle to enter the hole, the narrowed part is slightly rubbed with fat and tapped on the end of the thickened part. The cone facing the main part of the handle will be filled to some extent. But between the opposite cone in the body and the protruding part of the handle there will be an oval gap. It will be filled by the end of the narrowed part after driving, say, a wooden or metal wedge into it (Table 9).
Wooden wedges
Table 9 |
Dimensions, mm |
body, g |
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Number of teeth
Note: 1) the table is partial; 2) some sizes are rounded.
The number of wedges for fastening the body and handle is different. If the hammer hole has only a lateral expansion-slope between the points GB and VL, then one longitudinal wedge is hammered in (Fig. 8d). Moreover, not surprisingly, GOST 11042-83 says: “Tolerance for the symmetry of the thrust axis relative to the plane of symmetry of the hammer body: 0.3 mm for a hammer body weighing up to 0.2 kg; 0.5 mm - for a hammer body weighing from 0.2 to 1.0 kg...". It's clear. The layers of wood in the handle should extend parallel to its axis. When this parallelism is too distorted, and even the gap under the wedge is crooked and at random, then there is a possibility of the handle splitting when driving the wedge.
The expansion-slope between points BV and GD occurs only along the hole.
Two wedges are then hammered in (Fig. 8e). Three wedges are “driven” into the handle when the expansion is inclined along the entire oval hole. Two wedges are placed parallel to each other, and the third is perpendicular to them and between them (Fig. 8a, e). By the way, GOST 11042-83 states: “The number of wedges, the position of the wedge and the method of wedging are not established by the standard.” The body is considered to be correctly mounted on the handle when a right angle is formed between their axes. It is important to maintain this angle when using the hammer. The body very often wobbles on the handle depending on the impacts, changing the angle of the nozzle.
Many people, instead of a wedge made according to all the rules of art (Fig. 86), use a sliver of a suitable shape. You can't save time. The chip will soon fall out and it will be good, if not with the body. In addition to everything, you still need to systematically check the “health” of the wood chips. She, heartfelt, restrains the body, which is “free” in the process of soaring and is capable of killing. No! I'm not scary! And a legitimate wedge can pop out when some trick is not used.
Before “pushing in”, the WEDGE SHOULD BE LUBRICATED WITH COOKER'S GLUE or some other suitable, but, without a doubt, not office glue.
Nails are also a kind of wedges, but not just any kind. Tar nails come closest to this purpose. The diameter of their rods is 2...3 mm, length - 20...400 mm. If there are no such nails, then shorten construction nails of the appropriate diameters. Light thermally untreated low carbon steel wire goes to stamp them. Therefore, notches are not so difficult to make on them. When making nicks is a problem, then use rusty nails of the recommended sizes. The rust will provide at least some resistance to popping out. Like screws, nails should not be driven into the end of the handle more than half the depth of the hole. If the nail is large, it is cut off with a chisel, an ax or a hacksaw. The stump is sharpened. This operation is eliminated when the shortening is “performed” not perpendicular to the axis of the rod, but at an angle. The smaller the angle between the axis of the rod and the chisel blade, the sharper the stump. By the way, a wedge nail head is not required. Consequently, the cut off part will not greatly damage the nail, which is then used for its intended purpose.
A steel wire with a diameter of 3...4 mm closes the body well on the hammer handle (Fig. 8h). The hole for passing the wire is drilled at a sufficient distance from the end in the handle. When the wire is too steely to bend, it is annealed a little on any fire. Two grooves in the handle are threaded for laying the wire. Then the “collective” is passed into the body and the ends of the wire are bent. They are sometimes made longer in order to wrap around a body of a suitable shape, for example, plumber's hammer with a round striker.