- this is the main attribute of a hockey player, which determines the individual style of play and the nuances of technique. She always finds herself at the epicenter of the struggle. Even the most advanced composite models do not always withstand heavy puck hits and skate blade damage. Budget wooden golf clubs are considered consumables due to frequent breakdowns. Therefore, athletes pay special attention to the preservation and extension of the playing life of their equipment.
A proven method used by hockey players around the world is to wrap the hockey stick with special tape. It allows not only to effectively protect the inventory from damage, but also to improve its playing characteristics.
Why wrap around a club hook?
During the game, the entire surface of the hook is subjected to intense wear. Therefore, the primary function of the winding is to protect against mechanical damage. protects the end of the hook from friction against ice, and the side surfaces from puck blows and cuts from skates. A layer of winding distributes pinpoint impacts, reducing the chance of feather breakage from heavy puck hits.
The second function of this protection is to improve the playing qualities of the club. The hook tape allows for better feel and control of the puck on ice. The integrity of the surface, without chips and deep scratches, prevents the adhesion of snow, which in turn improves the puck's reception, guaranteeing powerful and lashing hits.
How to wrap the hook properly?
The hook can be wrapped in different ways. Most hockey players prefer to tape over the entire surface of the hook, from heel to toe. Someone wraps only the working area: the middle, the front or the heel. We will show you how to make a professional protection for the entire surface of the hook.
A special fabric tape is used for winding. Manufacturers offer two types of this material: for the hook and for wrapping the handle (top grip). This is important to take into account, since belts differ in adhesion properties.
The winding starts from the heel, carefully winding the tape and overlapping it.
The overlap can be complete, when a new turn of the tape almost completely overlaps the previous one, and partial, with the overlap of the previous turn by less than a third. With a full overlap, the winding layer turns out to be thicker, the hook is more reliably protected from impacts, but the tape consumption is higher.
The toe of the hook can be left open or rolled up completely. If you choose not to wrap the end, it is important to break the tape at the top of the club so that the tip does not unwind when rubbing against the ice.
When the hook is fully glued, the winding is continued beyond the toe.
The edge is smoothed and the excess is carefully trimmed with scissors.
The prepared stick is ironed with a washer from toe to heel on both sides. This is necessary in order to get rid of air pockets and improve the adhesion of the adhesive.
Professional wrapping of the handle
Hockey players wrap around the top of the pole to provide a secure top grip and prevent hand slippage and shaft twisting. The firmly fixed top grip minimizes energy loss when hitting hard and improves stick control during active play.
Handle wrapping technique
Start wrapping around the handle from the top of the stick. We make a few turns.
Without tearing off the tape, unwind it by 30-50 cm and fold it into a tight pigtail.
We wind the pigtail on the shaft at regular intervals of 2-3 cm.
Without breaking the tape, wind it up. We wrap the pigtail, applying tape with small overlaps.
We reach the end of the handle and cut off the tape.
At the top of the handle, we form a knob with several layers of tape, which will prevent the stick from slipping out when held with one hand.
Currently, all the equipment for this glorious game can be found at https://ultrasport.ru/konki/, however, we will show you how you can make a hockey stick with your own hands from quite simple materials that will serve faithfully for more than one season.
Prepare a wooden bar for work, it is best if it is oak. The workpiece should be 60 mm wide, approximately 1 m long, and 30 mm thick.
First of all, measure from one of the ends 50 cm, make a mark. In a large saucepan (about 50 L), bring water to a boil and immerse the marked bar. Your task is to steam the wood, a kind of "cooking", so that later this part of the timber can be bent.
After steaming, remove the piece of wood from the water and cut it lengthwise, going 35 cm deep. Then, quickly, this section of the bar will need to be bent in the required direction, and then quickly fasten it using the supports prepared in advance. You can use a variety of fixation devices, the most important thing is to think about everything in advance, because after you take the piece of wood out of the boiling water, it immediately begins to cool down and then it will be problematic to bend it.
Then wait for the wood to dry - this will take some time. The future stick should be dried in a dry room, where there are no sudden changes in temperature or draft.
Remove the workpiece from the clamps and proceed with its refinement. The end of the shackle you sawed will need to be drilled and riveted. For this purpose, use metal washers and soft wire. Use a planer to cut both sides of the bent bow until it is 15 mm thick. Take a note: if you are not lucky enough to use durable oak raw materials, then leave the bow thicker, then it will last longer.
If you are on vacation and decide to play hockey, then you can use the materials at hand. Take a branch of a tree - not too thin, but also not overly thick. It is best to use a willow branch. Cut a hook about 30 cm long, the length of the handle can be any. Gently cut the hook with an ax, and then use a knife to shave off to get a playing plane.
In childhood, probably, each of us played football and hockey, and some still do not leave these fun. And in order for us to have a hockey stick, it is not at all necessary to go to the store and buy it. I will tell you about a way to make a homemade hockey stick - and not only for ice hockey (the so-called Canadian), but also for ours - Russian bandy.
How to make a hockey stick
Unlike a stick for Russian hockey, a stick for Canadian hockey is somewhat easier to make due to the peculiarities of the hook (it is almost straight). It is enough to find a suitable blank for a handle with a hook, process it and connect it. The blank for the hockey stick should be chosen according to the player's height, because even mass-produced hockey sticks have 4 sizes: children, teenagers, juniors and adults.
Also see that the width of the block is twice its thickness. Now put one end of the bar in hot water and wait for the wood to steam. Of course, you can find a separate blank for the hook, but this structure will not be strong enough and the stick will quickly break. Now we remove the wooden end from the water and cut it lengthwise into 2 parts, to the required length. After that, the workpiece just needs to be bent at the desired angle and secured so with a clamp and wedges. Next, our workpiece must be left for about a day in a dry and warm place to dry. Now we remove the fasteners from the workpiece and start processing it. Do not forget to fasten the parts sawn for the hook together - they can be glued, or drilled and riveted.
You need to process the workpiece like this: plan the hook with a plane so that it is of the desired thickness, also plan the handle, giving it a comfortable shape for holding it in your hands. After that, put the planer aside and take a file sander, and then sandpaper and grind the workpiece. Then we proceed to the final polishing of the workpiece using sandpaper. That's all - all that remains is to cover the product with varnish and, after it dries, wrap the stick. This can be done with a belt or rubber band. It is advisable to wrap the handle with a rubber band so that the stick is comfortable to hold. By the way, if the workpiece is too long, cut off the extra piece at the processing stage.
How to make a ball hockey stick
To make a hockey stick, we need a wooden block a little more than a meter long (100-120 cm), however, for a children's hockey stick, the size should, of course, be smaller. The width of the timber with a length of 100-120 cm should be in the region of 50-60 mm, and the thickness should be 25-30 mm. Next, we do everything the same as for making a hockey stick for ordinary hockey. Only here, before immersion in water, you need to measure 50 or 60 cm (depending on the length of the workpiece).
After the wood has steamed, take the workpiece out of the water and cut it lengthwise by 30 cm. Now we put the workpiece in the previously prepared template and bend the wood without waiting for it to cool down. Next, we fix our workpiece using clamps and wedges and leave to dry. Then we take the workpiece and drill the sawn end of our arcuate workpiece. After that, we rivet it with copper wire and washers. Then we process the sides of the bow with a plane to the required thickness.
Well, then, we do everything in the same way as for an ordinary hockey stick. The section for the handle can be selected both faceted and round, according to your wishes. Now we cut off the excess, grind, polish our workpiece, and then varnish it and wrap it with belts or rubber tape. Well, now you know how to make a hockey stick - both for the Canadian with the puck and for the Russian with the ball.
At the request of readers
HOCKEY STICK
Making a club is a difficult and painstaking process. No wonder athletes say that a hockey stick should be as strong as steel and flexible as a nut branch. Making a stick strong and flexible at the same time is not an easy task. Here you will need, in addition to the necessary materials and tools, even greater precision and accuracy when gluing the stick.
A hockey stick should not have metal parts: all its parts are made only of wood.
The stick handle and boss (see drawing) can be made from birch or beech, the hook - from hardwood: beech or ash. Options for picking timber in the hook are shown in the drawing.
The boss is glued in to give the stick elasticity and flexibility.
For gluing individual parts of the club, you can use BF-2 or Supercement glue. It is undesirable to use carpenter's or casein glue, because both of these glue are afraid of dampness.
VARIL HTDI WOOD COMPOSITION) B
Having made the component parts of the ilyushka: the handle, the boss and the hook, proceed to gluing these parts.
First, glue the boss with the handle as shown in the drawing. Then use a jigsaw to cut out the groove for the hook. This is a very important operation, and it must be performed very carefully. Any unevenness left by the file can then lead to club breakage.
The part of the hook that connects to the handle and boss is sharpened onto a taper. Lubricate the hook and handle parts to be glued with glue and insert the hook into the handle groove. Place the club in a press or clamp and let the glue dry.
After gluing, work with a plane the side surfaces of the hook, boss and handle so that they do not have protrusions and roughness.
Sand the stick with sandpaper and varnish the hook and handle to a height of 30-40 cm. The handle is not varnished at the grip.
The club will look more effective if you write on its handle.
The drawing shows the numbers of the clubs from 1 to 3. In general, there are only nine of them.
The number of the club depends on the individual characteristics of the hockey players (riding style, height, puck handling, etc.).
For those who keep the club close to themselves, a small club is needed.
The length of the club is considered normal if its handle reaches the chin of the ice hockey player standing on the skates.
S .чРНЭ "гчЬ
SPHERE OF PAPER
To make a spherical segment, take a hoop whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the future sphere. Pull a piece of chintz over it evenly over the hoop. In the center of the circle, due to its own weight, the fabric will sag by 5 - 7 mm. Place coasters under the hoop and glue several layers of newspaper (3-5 mm thick) on top of the circle. Use warm paste to avoid wrinkles. Don't touch the circle until the paper is
dry. The weight of the wet paper will stretch the fabric, and the workpiece will take a spherical shape. Remove the dried sphere from the hoop and prime. Seal irregularities with a paste, which is prepared from a mixture of one part by weight of sifted chalk and one part of paper dust, prepared from newsprint soaked for 24 hours, squeezed, dried and ground into powder. Mix the mixture well and cover with a paste of one fifth of the potato flour and a tenth of the finished wood glue. Paint the sphere with nitro enamel.
COPPER WIRE
Openwork metal products (candlesticks, lamps, flower pendants) are firmly part of our everyday life. Light and graceful, they fit well into the interior of a modern apartment.
Annealed copper wire Ø 3 - 5 mm, a simple device (rollers, pyramids and a cone), a soldering iron and, of course, artistic taste and rich imagination will be required for you in order to create a cozy home atmosphere in the room.
Lamps and candlesticks are best made from annealed copper wire. For this, the wire is rolled in rollers (see drawing on page 16).
In the steel or duralumin base of the rollers (Fig. 1), a through hole and a groove are drilled for the fixed and movable fixing of the vapes (and the yak is a bearing mounted on the axle). A non-drift roll is fixed on the base with a nut, and a movable one - with a screw and a locking screw (Fig. 4). The axes of the rolls (Fig. 3) are machined from bronze, and the locking screw is made from steel. The wire is punctured like this: they clamp the biscuit (Fig. 2) in a vice, set the bearings to the required distance. Then take the wire by one end with pliers and pull it between the bearings. The operation is repeated until a flat plastic tape of the required thickness is obtained (the thickness of the tape is determined by the distance between the bearings).
If the wire does not roll well, it is annealed again. It is possible to bend the wire into rings of various diameters on a pyramid (Fig. 5).
To extrude various spherical surfaces (for example, plates for candlesticks], one more device is needed, consisting of a matrix of an arbitrary truss and a pressure punch (Fig. 6).
Cut a circle of the desired diameter from soft metal 0.5-1 mm thick. Place the blank circle coaxially on the matrix clamped in the lathe chuck. Then press the punch against the die using the taper of the lathe tailstock. Use a flat file with a beveled end to shape the workpiece. Clamp the thick stop plate in the tool holder of the lathe. Hold the handle of the file with one hand and the working part of the file with the other. While moving the file against the stop, gently press down on the rotating workpiece until a plate of the desired shape is formed from the round plate (workpiece).
Rolled wire can be used to make not only candlesticks and lamps, but also animal figurines, contour models of automobiles and even small stories from fairy tales.
N. SHCHERBAKOV, Moscow