Opening part.
Production of trees and bushes for diors, vignettes and just supports for work. This is only one line of the text, but as much inside the questions are hidden. Especially if the professional experience of an old layout is completely lacking. But good and often realistic work in terms of the manufacture of equipment and figures requires realistic vegetation. Especially if you need to do something in small scale.
It happened in my case in the manufacture of one small, but rather laborious work using a reduced copy of a natural natural landscape as the basis.
The idea of \u200b\u200bdoing something relatively large-scale in the plot, but a small in real size and necessarily with a textured species of nature was thought out for a long time. Probably, the indestructible thrust of the city resident to the living corners of nature, which we, unfortunately, are mostly visible only on the TV screen or computer monitor.
As a result, I stopped on the scale of 1:72. Under the impression of the "Thunderstorm Gate" and "Special Forces", I decided to work on the topic of special operations of federal forces in the North Caucasus in the so-called "Zelenka". And then there were questions, and how to actually make vegetation, the very "green", in the 72nd scale? And two main of them: what kind of trees need to do and most importantly?
The first question was pretty simple. The search on the Internet gave a lot of useful information on the Flora of the Caucasus as a whole and the North Caucasus in particular (including the Chechen Republic). Briefly note that the information itself was very interesting in terms of general development. What is still in one relatively small region there is a species diversity of flora and landscapes formed! But I come back to the topic of the article.
So, the idea is chosen, information about the flora is found here .... In full growth is the main question. And how to actually make trees in the 72nd scale? From the idea to use the finished vegetation of recognized model firms refused immediately, as I wanted to do everything with my own hands. He again turned to the model literature and the Internet. Having studied the found material (including thanks for the help of Andrey Yakchikka for the scans of Articles Valery Serdyuk) and the existing blowing materials were available at the disposal, began their own experiments with the manufacture of deciduous trees. The ideas of recognized modeling models using wire are certainly good, but I didn't like my results with this material. Therefore, I decided to use the existing workpieces of natural origin with the addition of real building materials, some model specials and other infringement materials. In principle, all materials used are available to each model, wherever he lived. Even branded specials can be replaced by public analogues.
Making Berezu
For the manufacture of birch layout in the 72nd scale, the following will be required:
1) Tools: Manual Tsang Minider (photo 1), stationery or model knife (photo 2), Spatula for plasticine and simple flat brush with rigid bristles.
2) Materials: tile grout (photo 3), scotch painter (photo 4), fast drying adhesive (photo 5), dry moss (photo 6), a slice of the natural birch birch of a suitable form (photo 7), powder imitating foliage (photo 7) Photo 8), model acrylic paints - black and white (photo 9), paint of a green-marsh shade (photo 10), a matte artistic lacquer of strong fixation to protect the surface of the patterns (photo 11).
Instead of branded model powder, you can use the available similar materials. For example, finely sliced \u200b\u200bpainted paper or painted ground teaweed. But I liked the branded powder more to imitate the foliage of the company Noch. Instead of matte art varnish, you can use PVA type glue, but which does not forms a shiny film.
So, the tools and materials are chosen. Start making a layout of a tree. The process itself can be conditionally divided into three parts.
Part 1. Let's start with the manufacture of the trunk.
At the selected piece of the twig of a real birch, the upper tips are sharpening (photo 12). After that, in advance with a narrow tape from a paper painting tape, we carefully wrap the workpiece of the trunk in several layers, starting below (photo 13). Malyary Scotch will serve as a base for the applied of the grout. Do not forget to make the base of the layout of the tree thoroughly, with a commander. But be sure to leave a thin stiff with a length of about 1 cm, which will be recessed in the base of your work, so that the tree layout is firmly fixed on it (photo 14).
Now we prepare the grout to imitate the bark of the future birch. In addition, the grout allows you to hide tape traces from painting scotch. It is desirable that grouting was fine grinding and without lumps. We divor the grout in a small container (in my case a jar from the film) White paint (photo 15). We stir up to a sour cream-like consistency and failed with a spatula or brush with a rigid bristle blank birch (photo 16). There should be no lumps in the mixing grout. Otherwise, their presence will affect the birches of the birch layout. We give the workpiece to dry in suspender. After drying the grouting, we get a white birch trunk (photo 17).
The next step is to make a fine brush with black paint on the workpiece of black stripes and points, as on real birch. The future base of the trunk at Komly should be gently painted in places of diluted paint of green-marsh colors. Since the reality of the birch in the roots in force with small moss. The workpiece of the trunk is ready (photo 18).
Part 2. Now go to the manufacture of branches for our barrel.
For the manufacture of branches, we use small bush twigs for the moss as the base (photo 19). Pray the twigs of the moss of black paint (photo 20). After drying, the paint is facing the fluffy part of the moss sprig above the above varnish or PVA glue and sprinkle with pinch with a prepared imitation of foliage (photo 21 and photo 22). At the exit, it turns out a branch branch (photo 23). We repeat the described procedure as many times as the branches are needed (photo 24).
Part 3.. We collect the workpiece of the trunk and billets of the branches in a single design.
The assembly is carried out upwards. First, drill in the workpiece of the barrel shallow holes for future branches. But it is not strictly perpendicular to the trunk, but a little bit down in relation to the merchandise. The exception is the holes to secure the most upper branches at the end of the trunk. They are drilled strictly deep into the tip of the billet. After that, we begin to glue billets of branches on a drip of fast drying glue into the cooked holes (photo 25). We glue the branch, we give adhesion to dry (1-2 minutes), holding the branch in the right direction. And so repeat until the last branches form the final upper branches of the birch layout.
As a result, we get a birch layout in a 72nd scale (photo 26). The automatic figurine in the 72th scale is added to demonstrate the size of the birch layout size and the figurines in the 72nd scale.
In principle, the considered method is suitable with a small change in technology, both for the manufacture of mock-ups of other deciduous trees in the 72th scale, and for the manufacture of birch layouts or other deciduous trees on a 35th scale scale.
We make a deciduous tree (method 2).
For the manufacture of a deciduous tree model (uncertain form) in a 72th scale, the following will be required:
1) Tools: Manual Model Pillet (photo 27), but you can use a stationery or model knife (photo 2).
2) Materials: Means for fixing imitation sheets, in my case, used lacquer for hair of strong fixation (photo 28), but it is better to use the company model composition of the company NOCH to fix vegetation on layouts or similar model specials, or as an option to PVA stationery aerosol canola (as hair lacquer is sensitive to humidity); PVA stationery glue peeled (photo 29); Dried formed moss (photo 30); a piece of the natural tree branch of a suitable shape and a suitable species (photo 31); The powder imitating the foliage similar to the size of the one specified in the photo 8; paint gouache brown.
So, directly proceed to the manufacture of wood.
We heat or cut off from a pre-harvested suitable branch of the real tree, part of the appropriate size and shape. It is better to select a part with small tubercles or residues of branch-branches, or make a branch of a barrel from a branch branch at the upper end of the future trunk.
After that, we proceed to the manufacture of the crown of our tree layout. The formed moss pockets of the desired size soaked in a container with a brown gouache. Let Gahashi absorb in moss. We pull out lumps, press it from moisture, forming it more slowly, but without a busting. Let dry. After that, we first fill in the center of the lump of PVA glue and gently insert the workpiece of the barrel (photo 32) or wrap the moss around the barrel (if the barrel is in the form of a flyer). Gently wrap everything into a paper tube, fix the tube from the deployment, and let me dry. In the end, we get the following (photo 33).
Blank tree layout with a crown there. Now we need to fix in the resulting crown imitation of leaves. For this, from the aerosol can only fill the crown with the above-mentioned or lacquer, or with a special model, or aerosol stationery. Fill so that moss is completely impregnated and even more so - the fixing composition should speak with excess. And we begin to sprinkle the imitation of foliage, with the calculation, so that the powder gets into all the cracks in the future crown. Slip better above a cardboard box or a wide flat container with small sideboards. The crushing must not save, all the same, then flies itself and will serve for reuse.
Plugged wood with imitation leaf hang on the knocked down knitting down and let dry. After drying, we get our layout of a deciduous tree with a spherical crown (photo 34). The trees per photo 35, photo 36 and photo 37 were made in the same way. The automatic figurine in the 72th scale also added to the photo to visually display the size of the tree layout.
For a more reliable image of a tree, on the basis of the model, we first make a hole in a depth of 0.5-1 cm for fastening a tree. We glue a tree layout. Then, from very thin natural twigs, we make several segments of about 0.5 cm long with a length of the ends of the ends at an acute angle. One end is glued closely without a gap on quick-drying glue to the wood layout fixed on the base of the tree and base. The second end of the segment is covering carefully removed with a similar thin twig of the crust. After that, if desired, add imitation of herbal vegetation around the trunk and near the protruding roots. At the outlet, it turns out a very reliable layout of the tree with the roots protruding from the soil (photo 38 and photo 39).
In full assembly, a set of all four trees on the finished work can be seen in my work "", also exhibited on Dishow2009.
We make a deciduous tree with an umbrella crown.
Nature is gorgeous in his manifold. The methods described above are suitable for the manufacture of only part of the species diversity of trees. Therefore, for the manufacture of a deciduous tree with an umbrella crown, the following method is offered for which the following will be required:
1) Tools: Simple flat brush with rigid bristles and flat brush with soft bristles.
2) Materials: means for fixing imitation sheets, in my case Art varnish (photo 11) was used, but the stationery purified PVA glue can be used (photo 29), the acrylic paint of the green shade coinciding with the imitation of foliage; Dry inflorescence of the decorative garden of an umbrella form (photo 40); The powder imitating the foliage similar to the one specified in the photo 8, but the appropriate color shade.
And again proceed to the manufacture of a tree.
First, brush with soft bristles stain in the desired shade of green box-inflorescences at the top of the dried flower (photo 41). In my case, the acrylic green paint of the company Tamiya was used. Let dry.
Now brush with rigid bristles apply to the painted inflorescences of the adhesive fixing composition, so that it was with an excess (photo 42) and we attaches to the sophisticated site by imitation of foliage. We let dry again, fixing everything in the same clothespin. At the exit, it turns out a good imitation of the tree with an umbrella crown (photo 43 and photo 43). Again, the automatic figurine in the 72nd scale is added to show the real size of the tree layout.
Various methods of making trees and bushes (without special details).
Sometimes it is required to make a lot of trees, but not necessarily so detailed as in the methods described above. Either you will be limited in choosing and presence of the above natural materials. For example, moss. Therefore, briefly describe four more methods of manufacture of trees and one way of making bushes.
The first way to quickly manufacture a tree layout.
According to the already classic scheme, more than once described both in the literature and colleagues-model stores, we make a layout of a tree with a crown of small pieces of foam rubber painted in the desired color of foliage. But I personally did not like the foam foliage. Therefore, I used the foam foam crown only as a basis for fastening the PVA glue (photo 29) of the imitation of the firm of the company Noch. As a result, it turns out that tree (photo 45).
The second way to quickly manufacture a tree layout.
This method allows you to make a fairly similar poplar layout, which will be especially relevant for diorams and vignettes with southern flavor.
To do this, prepare in advance and the dried twig of the thu, cypress or other similar coniferous real wood or shrub. We leave with brown natural color that part of the branch, which will be an open part of the trunk of our poplar layout. The other part of the branch, which should become a crown, from an aerosol can be poured with a fixing composition according to the technology already described above. We atter covered site by imitation of foliage. In my case, the same material of the company Noch. As a result, it turns out such a layout of a poplar (photo 46).
Third way to quickly manufacture a tree layout.
This method allows you to make a simple tree layout with a spherical crown. Not the most successful on appearance, but beginner models, for large urban diors or in the absence of suitable materials as the erzatz replacement of a realistic tree layout, this method can also be applied.
For the trunk, choose a piece of a sprig of a natural tree (preferably at least with a flyer at the place of formation of the crown). At the top of the future, form a fluffy, but not a transparent crown of a spherical species from a lump of medical wool. Catch pre-fix quick-drying glue to the upper parts of the future trunk. Carefully fault the ball from the cotton pva glue with a flat brush with a rigid bristle. The cotton lump will eventually decrease in volume. But covered with a thin film of PVA glue. Such billet on the clove of the future crown down. After drying, PVA stains the surface of the model paint with good adhesion into the desired shade of color, taking into account the color of the future imitation of foliage. Let's dry paint. The resulting ball-crown we wash the thin layer of the stationery peeled PVA, pre-mixed with the paint of the same color as the crown was painted. After that, we sprinkle the crown of our layout imitation of foliage. In my case, it was all the same material of the company Noch. As a result, it turns out a tree layout with a spherical crown (photo 47).
Fourth way to quickly manufacture a tree layout.
Also not the most successful on the appearance, but again beginner models, for large urban diors or in the absence of suitable materials as the erzats-replacement of the tree layout, this method can also be applied to manufacture a tree layout with a horizontal crown or high shrub.
A sprig of coniferous wood with small needles, a little cotton, PVA glue and powder for imitation of foliage. To begin with, we cut the sharp tips of the needles on the twig and clean the place of the future open part of the barrel of our layout. We take carefully with a small amount of cotton twig at the site of formation of the future crown and fix your wool on PVA. Let me dry. After drying, the PVA stains the crown from the wool through the airbrush.
After drying, the paint is literally poured the crown of the tree layout from the aerosol can with a fixing composition to fasten the imitation of foliage and immediately sprinkle the imitation of foliage. We give dry again. As a result, it turns out such a layout of a tree or high shrub (photo 48).
Making bush.
For the manufacture of a bush, you can use either the dried northern lichen Yagel (sold in model stores), or dried roots of small plants. On my example, the Yagel was used. If necessary, paint the workpiece of the future bush in the desired shade of brown or woody color. For example, an airbrush. We give paint to dry.
After that, we fill from the aerosol canteract the workpiece of the bush by a fixing composition to fix the imitation of foliage and immediately overwrite the imitation of foliage. We give dry again. As a result, it turns out such a mock of a bush (photo 49).
Small bonus
As a small bonus to the main article on the manufacture of trees and bushes, the 72nd scale will additionally describe its production technology and rocks in the 72nd scale, which were tested and implemented by me all in the same work ""
Rocks in a small scale do it yourself.
Currently, thanks to the railway model layers, the technology of casting rocks from gypsum is actively used in the finished shape. There is no doubt that the technology is comfortable, but has its own specific disadvantages. First, all rocks from one form go like twin brothers. Secondly, large-sized rocks have a pretty weight due to a significant amount of gypsum used.
In principle, my option to manufacture rocks as a result was quite easy to manufacture, although it takes time to develop time and several attempts to work with different materials.
When I had a question in choosing a material for the manufacture of rock base, the material for the manufacture of the basic part of the rock was thought out first. As a result, the choice stopped on foam ceiling panels. They are made of fine foam and allows the type of sandwich panels to make the basis of any height. However, the foam is absolutely not a factory for the image of the finished rock. Therefore, for refinement, the same universal grout for the tile will be needed (you can fine-finished cement) and the construction putty type "Rotband".
Thus, for the manufacture of the cliff in parts of the required materials, you will need only five components:
- 1. Melkovy foam, which will not crumble with balls;
- 2. Grout for tiles or construction mixture of the type of cement (fine grinding);
- 3. Construction putty type "Rotband";
- 4. Plywood 3-5 mm;
- 5. Many, a lot of gray or dark gray art or model paint. :)
First, the PVA glue is glued from the foam on the sample panels of a cubic shape preparation for the manufacture of a rock base. Let's dry the glue. If you wish, you can use the ready-made cube of monolithic foam with similar characteristics (small-minded and not crumbs with balls). On the bottom face of the cliff workpiece for greater stiffness, we glue the Faneur cliff cut along the contour.
After that, the rock with a basic rough terrain is cut out of the obtained billet. In my case, the bed and waterfall was additionally carved in the workpiece.
So, the basic cliff workpiece is ready. But it requires bringing to realistic cliff texture. Therefore, the workpiece must be cooled with a layer of 1-2 mm (but without peeping foam) grouting or cement. It is necessary to breed the grout or cement with a mixture of water and a gray or dark gray model or artistic paint. Let dry the grout on the foam to dry. We get a foam base in a solid stone shell.
But now the foundation is not too realistic similar to the rock. Therefore, we apply to one or more layers putty. The layers between application must be sang. If necessary, we increase individual sections by reinforcing the base with toothpicks or bamboo sticks for kebabs. In general, such an operation resembles the construction of houses from monolithic concrete.
The putty is divorced before use similar to the method of breeding the grout. On the semi-discharge putty, the latter with a spatula form large folds and cracks. After drying the last layer of putty, we gently form on the workpiece with an acute tool (for example, a stationery or model knife) of thin cracks, small chips and other characteristic features of the appearance of real rocks. We get an empty cliff on the desired scale (photo 50). But the rock without vegetation looks unnatural.
Therefore, add vegetation (trees and bushes), simulate small herbal vegetation with small pieces of moss, special powders or fine-colored painted foam rubber, glued to a thin layer of PVA (photo 51 and photo 52). Called cliff sections are tinted with a brush with grated pastel shallow shades. When finalizing the base, it is better to use the photos of real rocks with vegetation for a visual sample.
Note: If we produce rocks with water (river, stream, waterfall), then you must first make water, and then only add vegetation.
Waterfall.
I turn to the description of your technology for manufacturing water bodies in a 72th scale. In my case it is a stream with a waterfall. The base of the rock with a lie of the stream and the waterfall has already been done in the manufacture of a rock, it was necessary to make only water. Of course, you can use ready-made model mixtures of water imitators or transparent epoxy. But the question is how to apply them to a smooth layer on the vertical surfaces. The law of gravity has not been canceled.
For me, the experience of repairing in the apartment was very useful for me when they were studied and more than once all the details of working with construction plumbing transparent silicone. Therefore, I turned to the use of a long-known material for me. First prepared the bed of the stream with a waterfall, painting the bed with a bright-blue Tamysh acrylic paint. Then she glued with cyasic on the bed of the stream and the ledges of the waterfall of pebbles to imitate boulders and teeth.
After that, neatly with the help of a construction gun squeezed out the transparent plumbing silicone from the tube. Especially neatly where formed the jet of the waterfall. Delivered rollers strictly vertical rows. In two layers. The second layer in the intervals between the values \u200b\u200bof the first layer.
The upper part of the stream and jet of the waterfall aligned with a feature spatula, periodically rubbed a slightly wet soap. In this way, avoid the sticking of silicone to the spatula. Again, silicone is leveled exceptionally light movements from top to bottom. The creek at the bottom first aligned and slightly rubbed the finger, wrapped in a plastic disposable package, also a bit grazed with wet soap. Then the spatula without soap shaped the waves in the creek and, completely neatly, the clouds in general on a waterfall.
The entire surface of the "water" after the silicone hardening painted with a brush with an artistic transparent pebble lacquer (lacquer for paint protection for paint protection). Varnish is needed to appear adhesion with white acrylic paint. For without such a soil, acrylic does not lie on silicone. In the varnish added a little blue acrylic stars. As a result, he got a flashing surface of "water" with an additional transparent pale blue tint besides the effect of the backlight from the painted bright blue paint bottom. After drying the varnish to form a foam with a brush in the right points with point touch or light divorces, white artistic acrylic in gel-like consistency. The lightweight foam film imitated a light lesing with a brush with a white acrylic paint "Stars". After that, the vegetation was added to the shore of the stream: imitation of moss from finely colored painted foam rubber, glued to PVA, along the shores of the stream with a waterfall and on the teeth. At the exit received this waterfall (photo 53, photo 54).
In conclusion, I would like to give gratitude to my friends-modelarers who helped their comments on the need to refine various elements of the waterfall.
Hello expensive masters! Today I imagine how to make trees layout with your own hands. I never thought I would have to do it. The fact is that such trees ordered me dad, which is engaged in the manufacture of temple layouts and churches. Promise promised, and how to do - I do not know! But the promise is given - you need to perform. Found a video and started work. The video for which I did my trees can be viewed here - http: //yandex.ru/video/search? Filmid \u003d 1iwlfm7auxi & text \u003d% d0% BC% D0% B0% D0% BA .... I decided and for you to show how I did them, especially since very often or at school or in kindergarten asked to make any craft on this or that topic and then my MK and the author's video will certainly help you in this matter.
Here is a tree and a few more from me. I will say honestly: I did not think that the trees would be so exciting. Dad asked two trees, I got carried away and made 4.
To work, we will need: a small wire, a sponge for washing dishes or ordinary foam rubber, any cap or cardboard on what we will wear out our wire, pliers, which are usually used in beadwork and green paint of different shades.
Wash the wire on the lid. For one tree, about 8-10 mi height is enough single coil. But if you want the trunk to be thickening and the tree of the penette vehicles, then you can take a bigger wire. Shuffling the wire thus cutting it from one end.
Straighten.
Below we leave centimeter one and a half - two on the roots. They will continue to serve as the stand of our tree.
Below straightened the roots, twisting a few wires into one. Next, begin to form our crown, starting from the lower branches. To do this, we separate 6-7 wires and twist the spiral about half the spiral. Next, we divide our wires in half and twist further separately.
Then, on each branch, we leave one alone alone, and then twist two. So as shown in the photo.
According to this principle, we make 3-4 lower branches.
So that the branches of the second tier can come into contact with the branches of the lower tier, scroll through the barrel is still a little up.
We make the second tape of branches, again scroll the trunk and form the top as well as the rest of the branches did. That's what we should get.
And this is already the coax of a future birch.
Here our tree is covered completely with PVA glue (as if covered with snow. We leave our tree to complete drying, about 2-3 hours. As soon as our tree is completely dry, we start to paint it. Unfortunately, it's not a picture of painting, but it can be seen On video. There is nothing complicated here. Prayer trunk and twigs or brown acrylic, or if it is birch - light gray with black dots.
Next, we can paint our future krona. For this purpose, I took a sponge for washing dishes and a simple white foam rubber. Poured a little water in a bowl and added some acrylic paint of different shades. Filty her in the water so that the sponge was painted evenly.
Wet sponge again and without squeezing, the tassel began to put paint on the sponge: first with one tint, then the other, then the third. It is enough to apply a little paint on one side.
And then just shim it in his hand, putting on the hand of a glove or polyethylene. Sponge, as you can see, it turned out unevenly, what we need. As the sponge was yellow - it gave us an extra shade of yellow. That's what we did.
We press our sponge from excess water and put on the battery to complete drying.
And such a shade turned out when painting an ordinary white foam rubber. As you can see this more green. The first, brighter sponge went to the birch foliage.
fair in Kroshevo. And so every twig. Then he gave dry, shook out what was not glued. The pressure again applied glue on the twigs, but no longer with a brush, but just dripped on a drip from the bubble and plucked the little bit and again to complete drying. And so several times. It is certainly more troublesome, so it is better to do as the author advises.
Decorations are an important detail of the model of the railway. They can be purchased in the store or make it yourself. The big advantage of independent crafts is realism, as well as cash savings. In addition to the trees directly, a certain amount of shrub and grass is required for a full landscape. For their manufacture, you need to prepare the necessary material in advance. Of course, all this can be purchased in a specialized store, but if the railway layout is characterized by scale, and the number of trees will exceed 100 pieces, their purchase can fly into a penny. Moreover, most of the goods presented in the store distinguishes artificiality that pays attention to at first sight. Considering all the above, you can purchase several trees to subsequently compare them with products of our own manufacture and feel the difference on a specific example, for our part we will try to make your work as much as possible by offering a detailed instruction. It's small, start!
The railway will pass through a dense forest, so that a total of 200 - 300 trees will need. The layout involves the presence of mountains, so most instances will be coniferous rocks.
After reading the step-by-step description below, you can easily make an artificial fir and discover what to do it is very and very simple. However, given the fact that we have to create a whole forest, you need to prepare in advance for the fact that the procedure takes a lot of time.
To begin with, we need to determine the sizes using real trees as samples. Given that the scale is 1:87, the length of the highest tree will be 30 cm, and the lowest 8 cm. In addition, it will be useful to make several stumps to give our forest realistic features.
Necessary materials:
- Round billets for tree trunks, 1.5 - 0.8 - 0.5 cm thick.
- Wire nails, 3 mm thick.
- Motor knitting wire green or galvanized.
- Glue and brush for its accurate application.
- Latex paint, mixed with sand and small cork material.
- Water.
- Brown acrylic paint (or pigment bottle for adding to latex paint).
- Filter fiber material for the pool (sold in every garden center).
- Wooden glue, diluted with water.
- Acrylic paint.
- Spray - glue.
- Green fibers.
- Alcohol or gasoline for cleaning glue from the trunk, as well as a cotton swab.
- Aerographic pistol and compressor.
Required tools:
- Set of steel knives.
- Sandpaper.
- Pliers.
- Peripheral shag.
- Weapon for glue.
- Scissors.
- Weapon for chopping wood.
- Brush.
Step 1.
First of all, the billets are made of the rods of the desired length for tree trunks. With the help of a steel knife, they are performed very easily, since the cork tree is a very soft material. Then, with the help of sandpaper, the rods are given a conical shape, and the remaining dust can come in handy later, so it must be saved.
 |  |
Step 2.
At the second stage, with the help of ticks, the carpenter cut the wire nails into segments of the desired dimensions, after which they are inserted into a wooden blank through soft pressing, and the glue is poured into the resulting gap.
 |  |
Step 3.
Knitting wire cut into several segments of 4 to 10 cm long. They will serve as the basis for branches, as well as small trees and shrubs.
Step 4.
Correct the branches so that they have the same length from all sides. We start with the lower branches, for which we take the longest 10 cm segments. Just above, we make another row of fewer segments, etc. Makushka is also crowned with a piece of wire.
Step 5.
At the fifth stage, the branches are fixed using glue. Here you can take advantage of special samples or apply super glue.
Step 6.
At this stage, we are faced with the task of producing a mixture of clay, water, paints, pigment and sawdust. Here you can also use a latex mixture of brown or black color, mixed with sand and sawdust (remaining after the production of wooden trunks in the first stage). The resulting solution is well whitening with a wooden stick to a density. The most important thing is that the mixture is not liquid.
Step 7.
With the help of the brush we appreciate the resulting mixture on the barrel and branches and let it dry, if necessary, produce several layers.
Step 8.
Using scissors, make small strips from a fibrous material, and then with the help of joinery glue we put them on the branches and let it dry well.
Step 9.
After the workpiece is driving, we use dark-green or brown paint with the help of aerosols.
Step 10.
At this stage, the glue layer is applied to the fibers, while it is desirable to avoid it to hit the trunk of the tree. Considering that part of the material is more liquid, it should be gently dispel throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe branch. After that, the tree is given for several minutes on drying, and then with a cotton swab, alcohol or gasoline, it is necessary to remove glue and fibers from the barrel, since the needles are not growing on it.
Now the tree can be used as a scenery. Given that the living forest is characterized by the wealth of forms and content, it is desirable to paint trees in different shades to avoid monotony.
 |  |
It will be useful to create minor parts, for example, broken branches, a chest, so that the work looks natural.
Alternative design.
This technique assumes that the branches are located exclusively on the top of the tree by analogy with pine bodies. For this, several segments of wire are attached to the trunk, which takes a little time. The branches are fixed using high-speed glue.
The crust paste is made from latex paint with the addition of brown and black pigment, as well as sand and remaining sawdust after the production of cone. This allows the tree to look naturally, reminding the samples of wildlife.
The next step, as in the first case, is the fibrous material fastening and its staining in green. At the same time, the pine should be greater than fir, so the length of the trunks will reach 25 cm.
 |  |
Trial lesson for makety http: //bestmaket3.ru/ochnoe-obuchenie ...
In this video, we will tell how to make trees, bushes and flower beds for your layout. There are several options for the manufacture of bushes and trees that master the guys passing training in the studio of the pale. The simplest, and therefore often used, it is the manufacture of trees from a stranded copper wire. The thickness of the wire, that is, the sections, selected through the thickness of the trunk of the trees depicted.
Then the wire flashes into separate branches. Then on a suitable piece of foam, it can be fixed on something piece of plasticine, into which we inserted trees and bushes, we paint them into brown colors.
It is advisable to fix the paint with a layer of varnish. Even simple hair lacquer is suitable. Next, the branches are missed by glue. Something suitable with whom you have already worked. It may be uranium, and Cosmofen, and Pva. Just need to take into account the speed of drying of one or another glue.
Foliage used for pasting trees and shrubs can be both purchased, from finished sets and self-made.
For homemade, the ordinary sponge will fit well. It is painted in various tones of green shades rather chaotic and randomly.
After drying, the sponge is kneading either by hand, but in a blender to small pieces, but not in dust. Then the trunks of trees and shrubs, wrapped with glue, sprinkled with finished foliage.
If the autumn foliage is needed, more yellow and red tones are added to the paint. Making layouts with their own hands - the process is interesting and creative. See our lessons, go through the full video course or the course intensive and everything will work! http://bestmaket3.ru/
Maketing lessons. Production of trees, bushes, flower -
Trees, bushes and flowerbeds can be made in different ways. We will tell about one of them.
This option is the easiest, and therefore more frequently used. Trees are manufactured from a stranded copper wire.
The thickness of the wire must be chosen in such a way that it coincides with the thickness of future trees.
The next step is dissolving the wire for individual branches.
Next, you need to take a suitable piece of foam and paint them into brown (or any other, based on the task) color.
It will be fine if you secure the paint with a layer of varnish, you can even use simple hair polish.
After the paint is driving, you need to wash it with glue. You can use uranium, Cosmofen, PVA or any other. with whom you have already worked. Here you need to take into account the speed of drying of one or another glue.
Fur for pasting trees or shrubs can be bought or made yourself.
Alone foliage can be made from a regular sponge. To do this, you need to paint the sponge into various tones of green shades. So that the foliages look natural, it is necessary to paint and randomly. In color, water-soluble paints are used.
When the paint is driving, the sponge can be arched with hands, and it is possible, and even in a blender. The main thing is not to overdo it and do not be confused in dust.
Now the trunks of trees and shrubs remained, losing with glue and sprinkle with the manufactured foliage.
If we want to show autumn, paint our foliage into more red and yellow tones. If we make a winter layout, you can stick watts, as well as sprinkle soda or semolina.
The article is prepared by the Center specialists